Reddit mentions: The best automotive brake system parts

I got my 99 SH about 8 months ago, it was over all in fantastic shape, here's what I've done to keep it moving forward.

1. The suspension was probably the original suspension. I got new struts.
   (I put 'stock' ones on, but I bought a full set of KONI Yellow's, but the mechanic i took the car too wouldn't put them on, and didn't give me a good reason, I think he was just lazy.
   I'm going to put it in the shop in September for a full suspension redo, or as much as needed, control arms, ball joints, etc... I found a classic japanese mechanic in my area that I feel will do a good job.
   
2. I had to get new brake pads and rotors also, cause they were VERY old - I got these : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AGBTCQK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
3. as stated in another comment here, get all the fluids changed, change the fluid filters, use higher quality oils. And stay on top of the oil level ... My car burns oil... change the air filters. Use premium grade fuel.
   
4. Beyond that, you are dealing with a 20 year old car, so some of the performance aspects may have degraded beyond a point of "basic" maintenance making it back to tip top shape, but, assuming things are in good order, you're going to have a lot of fun and really enjoy it.
   
   Even with the very basic repairs I've done, the car feels fantastic and drives really well.
   
   It's a honda, so assuming the drive train is solid, and you stay on top of the maintenance, it's going to last a really long time.
   
   Enjoy!
   
   As an aside, there's a TON of good resources in the sidebar of this subreddit, but also, look up the Honda Prelude facebook groups. There's A LOT of activity over there, super friendly people.

>What are some ways of preventing theft of the scooter? Does it involve some specialty lock or perhaps being specific about where I park?

I have a [Gorilla Alarm] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J3QM4SS/ref=twister_B00WGCGQWQ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) on my scoot but sometimes it goes off unexpectedly and it drains the battery quick if you don't ride your scooter often.

I use to use a U-Lock to attach to my wheel but I've almost rode off a couple of times with it still attached so I hardly use it.

You can get one of [disc brake locks] (https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8303DPS-Disc-Brake/dp/B0009V1WR0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1469235803&sr=8-1&keywords=disc+brake+lock) that attaches to your front brake disc and comes with a reminder strap that you attach to the handlebars so you don't ride off with it still attached.

But I highly suggest getting full coverage insurance if you don't have it already in case the scooter does get stolen. Scooters are so light that 2 people could lift it onto the back of a truck and take off. The money you get back from full coverage insurance is surprisingly fair, at least with State Farm.

>I live in Houston. The sun is pretty intense and I love the paint job on my scooter. Is there a way to protect the paint with products or is a simple scooter cover the solution?

This is a great question because if you don't protect the body, it will start fading on you.

You can either use a [paste wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05500-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U1TVW/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469236135&sr=1-1&keywords=mother%27s+wax) or [liquid wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05750-California-Brazilian-Carnauba/dp/B0002U1TX0/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469236135&sr=1-2&keywords=mother%27s+wax) to give you the best protection. Remember to follow the instructions that come with the wax.

You can use a [spray wax] (https://www.amazon.com/Mothers-05724-California-Gold-Spray/dp/B001MXX5D8/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1469236261&sr=1-1&keywords=mother%27s+spray+wax) which is the easiest to apply and remove but it doesn't offer the same kind of protection that a paste or liquid wax gives.

Btw, I only used Mother's as an example but most of the brands that you find at your local auto parts store should be fine. Also, make sure to always use a Microfiber towel when doing anything on the scooter's body. Microfiber towels scratch the body the least vs. any other kind of towel.

Here is a full list not including the subwoofer and trim panel tool kit I used: https://imgur.com/a/pkcl5Du

Other odds and ends: https://imgur.com/a/SwvCyuz

You will need a subwoofer capable of 2 ohm impedance. I highly recommend this one: https://alpine-usa.com/product/view/x-w10d4/

You wire up the 2 voice coils in parallel which makes it 2 ohms, capable of the 1000 watts. The box I used is on the smaller end of proper box size, this one might be a better bet but it's considerably larger: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_777BB101V/Sound-Ordnance-Bass-Bunker.html

If all that is too pricey for you you can opt for a cheaper headunit. This was my second choice, it supports Android Auto as well: https://www.crutchfield.com/S-Zdky5C59JAD/p_158XAV100/Sony-XAV-AX100.html

If you go with Alpine/CarPlay, do yourself a favor and get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/MicroBypass-Parking-Override-Bypass-Alpine/dp/B006FKAHFM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1537111335&sr=8-2&keywords=alpine+parking+brake+bypass

If you get stuck, or need advice on running wires or grounding points I'd be happy to help. My 2015 Passat sounds fantastic!

Yup. This is a job that's worth doing yourself if youre even a bit mechanically inclined. It's really not that hard and you can figure it out by watching youtube videos. A pro can do it in under an hour but give yourself half a day to take it slow and do it right the first time.

Best way to save money is not to give it away to someone for something you can do yourself.

ps. Check the cost of new rotors before you resurface the old ones. It's often so close in cost (EXCEPT at the dealers parts price) that's its faster and easier to get new rotors. Want them super cheap? Order on Amazon
http://www.amazon.ca/Premium-Slotted-Drilled-Ceramic-KT113131/dp/B014X7GMJS/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1452743552&sr=8-13&keywords=2012+honda+civic+front+brake+rotors

I have replaced the rotors and brake pads on my justa cooper. From what I can tell, it is not much more difficult than any other car. I’m sure most of the price is just labor.

For the rotors, I would recommend Centric high Carbon
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/61A7561A0A0.aspx
Or EBC Premium
http://www.autoanything.com/brakes/ebc-brake-kits

Don’t get drilled or slotted rotors as they are weaker and will warp/crack easier than normal rotors. They are only useful in high track/ high performance scenarios.

For the pads, it’s completely up to you. I got the EBC brake kit so, I got EBC redstuff pads and so far they are amazing, no complaints yet.

For the sensor, I’m almost sure they want to replace the two brake pad wear sensors on the car. (Mine were on front left and back right wheels). You can get probably get those from ecs running (not sure, my car didn’t need them, I changed my brakes before the sensor lit up).

The last thing I would recommend besides all this is to change the brake rotor screws, when you swap rotors:
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-models-Brake-Disc-Screws/dp/B00EPYXINS
And to buy some copper anti-seize and silicone paste to preform the job correctly as outlined in this video
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6RQ9UabOIPg

(Make sure to double check if these parts also fit your car, mines a justa)

Hopefully I have helped & good luck!

• Bad pedal feel can result from rotor issues, but more importantly if the pads are glazed, or issues like air in the lines or the master cylinder or wheel cylinders are failing. Plus rubber brake lines get softer over time.
  
  
• Personally I have never noticed much difference with different rotors, as long as they are good quality...except that drilled/slotted were noisy.
  
  
• One common misperception is that rotors get 'warped'. In most cases this does not happen. If you get a set of calipers and a runout gauge and measure a 'warped' rotor, in many cases it will be 100% within tolerance.
  
  
• What feels like warping is that there are differences in hardness within the rotor casting and this typically means there can be a 'bump' in the rotor (hard spot) which only is an issue under intense heat and clamping forces. Cryo-treatment is supposed to help this--however only if the rotor casting is any good. Cryo helps to even out the internal stresses within the rotor and therefore help to ensure hardness variations are not as likely to happen. My experience is that if you just buy a good OEM or Centric rotor, it's a pretty good casting to begin with, while some parts store rotor fresh off the boat from China--not so much.
  
  
• Ideally the rotors should have a layer of the friction material deposited evenly on the rotor face. On the 'bump' the friction material is gone, and the friction is less for some part of the rotor. Thus when you brake the pads are grabbing/releasing and it causes severe shake. Bedding-in brakes is making sure the friction material is evenly deposited over the rotor surface. If brakes are not bedded-in, it's real easy to 'cook' a rotor and instantly find it's hard spots. I've done this. A rotor with 20 miles on it shakes like a cheap blender...
  
  
• I use a bed-in spray called the 'silencer'. It's mildly abrasive spray for friction surfaces that helps the bed-in process to go faster. You spray rotor faces and let it dry, then put the pads on. It's imported and expensive, but one can lasts forever.
  https://www.amazon.com/Goodson-Brake-Silencer-Spray-Aerosol/dp/B008CP6RJI
  
  
• Before I would go crazy with expensive rotors, if the pedal feel is soft, I would consider upgrading to braided stainless steel brake lines. And sometimes as your caliper piston rings and/or master cylinder wears, those parts need to be swapped (e.g. rebuild calipers, replace MC).
  
  
• One thing that is 100% vital is that the proper bed-in procedures MUST be followed. Failure to bed-in brakes properly will destroy your new rotors, glaze your pads and give you the worst pedal feel you've ever seen.
  
  
• One comment about brakes: Japan has some crazy vehicle inspection requirements....after so many years you literally have to replace the entire braking system, lines and all, to keep a used car on the road. At first glance this seems kinda crazy, but to keep the brakes working properly, that really is what you need to do.

Duralast usually is fine, however I find that the rust/corrode really easily, there are some pretty solid choices online.

I use rockauto to find parts prices, personally I have been very happy with anything made by Bendix, I am currently using their ceramic pads and rotors on my Sunfire and Jetta; the Jetta for a year and the Sunfire for about 4 months, both are holding up nicely, no pulsation dead silent, and best of all NO BRAKE DUST!

If you want an upgraded pad, look into Hawk's Ceramic pads, They are considerably more expensive at about $60-$100 for a pair, but we used them in a track day car that my buddy's shop used to own a few years ago, and I swear they never fade, for daily driving I imagine they would be a bit overkill, but brakes are one of those areas where someone typically should be spending money.

Find your parts at rockauto, then take the part numbers and go over to amazon and see if you can score free shipping, thats the only downfall to rockauto these days is their shipping rates can be fairly high.

I assume that these are front brakes, I did some part number searching for you.

BENDIX Part # RD804 - Front Ceramic Pads $24.94 for the pair at Amazon

RAYBESTOS Part # 66443R - $27.28 each at Amazon

Free shipping on amazon, by the way.

We replaced the rear brakes at 64k miles on our 2013 but that was a bit late (one pad was totally gone and ruined the rotor). I don't think there's an indicator to make noise when the pad is almost worn out. We bought the car with 26k miles on it and I don't think the brakes had been changed before that.

Replaced the rotors with cheap Callahan ones from Amazon @ $50 for both and got a great deal on these Power Stop 16-1665 Z16 Ceramic Brake Pads for $10 used, like new from Amazon warehouse deals. You should be able to find new brake pads for under $40 easily.

The old rotors were stuck pretty well on the hub but there is a hole on the rotor that you can put a screw into to push the rotor away form the hub. The bolt that came with this kickstand happened to fit the hole perfectly. This video shows what I mean.

Does anyone have experience purchasing/using replacement parts from a brand named "HURI"? If so, what are your opinions of them?

I'm looking at replacing the master cylinder assembly on my 2002 Yamaha V Star, and came across this brand while searching for the best deal. They, by far, have the best I have found. So much so that it seems too good to be true, which I know usually means it is. Just looking for opinions on the brand. Thanks in advance.

​

Amazon Listing

Yeah, they really look nice on our cars. I'm super happy with them so far. Braided brakes lines would have completed it but I didn't think about it until the friend that was helping me mentioned I should replace the rubber lines with braided lines.

Price on Amazon wasn't too bad either. Rears and fronts.

Very easy to do a rotor and pad job yourself. Does require a couple of tools though. Even with the tools you'll be saving a bunch of money.

Changed the front brakes on my sister's civic for less than $150 dollars for the parts.

Besides sockets and a ratchet, you'll want to either get a C-clamp or a a brake caliper tool: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24400-Disc-Brake-Spreader/dp/B0002SQU9K

Also some brake lubricant: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24129-Silicone-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B01L1LV9F6/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496554333&sr=1-11&keywords=brake+lube

And sometimes its tough to take the rotor screws off, for that you will need an impact driver: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002O16UPM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Since your car is pretty new, you might not need the impact driver unless your rotors are rusty.

I used this rotor + pad set for the car : https://www.amazon.com/Power-Stop-K1043-Evolution-Drilled/dp/B005FKMOWM

I've put powerstop rotors and pads on 4 cars now and they have worked quiet well. Some people were saying that the drilled rotors are prone to cracks, but that won't happen for a daily drive car on the street. Other rotor and pad options:

https://www.amazon.com/Wagner-BD125669E-Premium-Coated-Brake/dp/B00HJJDSZO

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-17D914C-Professional-Ceramic-Front/dp/B000IYY7PW

Rears will be different than the ones I posted, so check and see what will fit. Amazon makes it pretty easy, just enter your car and it'll tell you what fits.

Since you have watched videos on the change, I don't think you need me to tell you how to do it.

Buying from the dealer is great because of convenience and returns, but you can usually get the same OEM parts online for cheaper if you can look up your own part numbers. These are the exact same OEM pads for your car the dealer is charging $110 for half-price

Brake pads are perfectly fine to buy aftermarket. You can go to an auto parts store or buy online.

At an auto parts store they will usually give you an option of different qualities. Usually the most expensive ones are about the same quality as OEM pads. I would buy those. The cheaper pads will work decent, but they will wear out faster.

I prefer to shop online. Check out rockauto.com. From there I'll google the different options they present to see if there is anything positive or negative about the brand/model. Then once I've settled on a few option I might buy I cross shop those parts on Amazon and Ebay and will buy from whichever of the 3 it is cheapest.

EDIT: Searched and found these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004HO7B84 That is probably what I'd buy. Made in Korea just like your car likely from the same OEM supplier

I put the Alpine i207-WRA in my 2012 JKUR with the stock amp/sub and love it. With the Maestro (included in the restyle kit), I can use my steering wheel controls, and was able to reprogram them so volume is on the left set of buttons and track changes are on the right (like my BMW). Yeah, it was expensive, but the fact that it comes with literally everything you need, including trim that makes it look and fit stock and the Maestro for steering wheel control integration makes it worth it.

Install was a breeze, and the install video is complete and easy to follow. I did it myself, and the only thing I had to do custom was the parking brake bypass -- Alpine's harness has wires hidden behind tape you can solder to, so there's no need to splice (see guide here). Routing the wiring for the GPS antenna was a little annoying as it's quite short, but it does reach.

I installed a backup camera at the same time, and that was a total breeze as well. Just plug it in, tell the head unit it exists, and it works automatically when you put it in reverse.

CarPlay works great, but it's not wireless. Google Maps likes to forget you started navigation if you do it before you start the car, but otherwise, no gripes.

It's really cool to be able to see tire pressure on all 4 tires, battery voltage, intake/coolant temp, etc on the Alpine (via the Maestro's OBD-II connection).

You cannot use the stock microphone, it's not the right kind of microphone. The aftermarket mic is a little ugly and not integrated nicely, but you get used to it.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FKAHFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_a6FYCbTM1M7VV

I had a bit of free time today and I happened to find it pretty quick.

Heres the dash kit
https://www.crutchfield.com/p_003MAZK860/American-International-MAZK860-Dash-Kit-Painted-silver-black.html

Remember you’re not going to use those side plastic pieces. You’ll have a better fit using the metal ones already on the stock radio

It's not that hard honestly.

I bought a kit that includes most of what I needed (Brush & paint, caliper cleaner, tape, etc)

Before doing that, I used a metal brush with compressed air to clean most of the rust and dirt, then I used the caliper cleaner in the box kit and painted it with the application brush. You just follow the instructions on the box, really.

I lifted the car and had fun for a good two hours

Kit I bought and recommend : http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BCP400-Red-Brake-Caliper/dp/B000B6AF80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462380278&sr=8-1&keywords=duplicolor+caliper+paint+kit

Also took a picture during the job : http://imgur.com/cefpf3u

Some cars seem more sensitive to it than others, but almost every car I've had has eventually had a little bit (sometimes a fair bit) of rust on the hub surface and has been fine after some wire brushing. Hopefully you're good to go and they're just a little noisy.

If you do eventually suspect that's an issue though, 3M makes a really nice hub cleaning kit. I've been too cheap to bother purchasing one yet though. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0013HHNPY/

I like using one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-07547-Scotch-Brite-Roloc-Cleaning/dp/B0013HHNPY

You may be able to find one at your auto parts store.

It cleans the area around the stud easily and you can use it between the studs too. Best to get the rust off so the rotor lays flat on the hub or you can get some pulsing.

You can try using this or this.

Disc locks are useful. And for good measure you can use a bicycle lock on the rear wheel and lock it to a immobile object like a street lamp.

First I'll say the built in steering lock is useless and can be broken in seconds. Use it, but never depend on it. (It will help with idiots.)

Get at least one, maybe two, disk brake locks. This will help keep them from moving the bike. Also, an alarm and a GPS unit help too. Keep the cover on as well.

Might I recommend this kit from Duplicolor. Take the brakes off and do 4 coats. Makes a great difference.

Not the best possible security - but I agree it's somewhat safer now. It doesn't have to be impossible to steal: it just needs to be a bit harder than they are prepared to deal with.


Not that someone can't cut it off - but they'd have to approach the bike with cutters and actually cut it. Of course they can just pick it up and put it in a van - but the quality of the cable/chain/lock wouldn't affect that at all.


As an alternative, even a cheap disc lock is pretty hard to remove.

bleeding brake lines is pretty easy.. Easier if you get a power bleeder or even a harbor freight brake vacuum pump bleeder.

no idea about the time estimate though. A miata takes like half hour with two people and pure foot pumping.

I'm pretty sure it's none of those wires. Those appear to be the speaker wires. You really need to consult the manual for your head unit to see which is the correct wire.

Edit:
According to Google, this will work for you.
MicroBypass Parking Brake Override Bypass for Sony https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SVTMKU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uaX8Bb05K6EPX

Sounds like there is some air in the system, especially if you changed the caliper. I would suggest re-bleeding. Start at the rear wheel furthest from reservoir, the other rear wheel, the front furthest from res, then the front nearest. Or use a pressure or vacuum bleeder, those tools are fantastic. https://www.amazon.com/Motive-Products-101-System-Bleeder/dp/B00CJ5DWKO/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1497525897&sr=8-13&keywords=pressure+bleeder

http://www.amazon.com/Auto-120-0116-Disc-Brake-Pad/dp/B004HO7B84?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
This one right here, cheers!

You mean the bits that check to see if you’re moving so you can’t do things like manage connections while underway? I didn’t, I used a Microbypass.


https://www.amazon.com/MicroBypass-Parking-Override-Bypass-Alpine/dp/B006FKAHFM/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=microbypass+alpine&qid=1573396858&sprefix=microby&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Brake-Shackle-8303DPS/dp/B0009V1WR0

While all locks are simply a deterrent, not really protection adding this to your bag with a u-lock or beefy hardened chain lock would help keep your scooter yours.

Also, I would never lock my scooter up for more than 5 minutes, max. If I'm going to in somewhere for more than that the scooter stays home or goes in with me.

may be something like this will fix your issue.

I used this and it worked fine.

get a brake bypass circuit and ask them to install it when the fix the job: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006FKAHFM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

this is the one I bought and my car never complains about being in park to make changes to the settings

The only real way to secure it would be to chain it to something solid since most scooters are stolen by a couple of guys hoisting it into the back of a pickup truck.

But since that's not an option for most, I suggest one of these [brake disc locks] (https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8303DPS-Disc-Brake/dp/B0009V1WR0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500700029&sr=8-2&keywords=brake+disc+lock) but more importantly, get full coverage insurance with a low deductible.

Yeah... I just tried it and I didn't see it. I have a Parking Brake Override Bypass installed so maybe that is why.

As an [example] (http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BCP400-Red-Brake-Caliper/dp/B000B6AF80/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405087744&sr=8-1&keywords=brake+caliper+paint+kit)

http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-BCP400-Red-Brake-Caliper/dp/B000B6AF80

here you go. This is what you should use.

Dupli-Color EBCP40000 Red Brake Caliper Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B6AF80/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.8kZBbJ0EAG07

It's a 3M product for cleaning rust off the wheel hub before installing the rotor.

https://www.amazon.com/3M-07547-Scotch-Brite-Roloc-Cleaning/dp/B0013HHNPY

It's only $15 if you find you do this often.

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8303DPS-Disc-Brake/dp/B0009V1WR0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453246144&sr=8-1&keywords=motorcycle+lock

They usually have a little springy cable that connects to your seat or handlebars as a reminder to remove the lock... because yes, if you try to ride it with the lock still on, you're gonna have a bad time

​

https://www.amazon.ca/Master-Lock-8303DPS-Disc-Brake/dp/B0009V1WR0

​

This kind of thing is what Speedyworm is talking about, I think.

I just installed one last week. Get this and you won’t regret it.

MicroBypass Parking Brake Override Bypass for Alpine https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FKAHFM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_deI6Cb8KXEQ8Z

Woah shit. Maybe invest in one yourself then?

The padlock would definitely stop your scooter from rolling but one day, you might forget it's on there and try to take off which would cause some damage.

They sell [disc brake locks] (http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8303DPS-Disc-Brake/dp/B0009V1WR0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427514154&sr=8-2&keywords=disc+brake+lock) that come with a coiled strap that you attach to your handlebars after attaching the lock to your disc. The strap is a reminder that you have the disc brake attached before you try and take off.

I just got and installed one of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Gorilla-9000-Motorcycle-Remote-Transmitter/dp/B00J3QM4SS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427513872&sr=8-1&keywords=gorilla+alarm)

Although it's just an alarm without an ignition kill, it is pretty loud and it only took me about an hour to install.

This alarm also has the option of adding a 2-way remote which supposedly works for up to a 1/2 mile away and it notifies you if your alarm is going off.

I highly recommend this alarm if you could spare $100 bucks.