Reddit mentions: The best automotive transmission kits & parts

yeah if you have the ability to pull the trans then its not extremely difficult to rebuild it

you can get a full kit with discs and bands for $125 $150 on Amazon or from some other supplier..

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07C37BZQ9

and you just need pretty much basic tools to rebuild it

although this is one of his early videos this guy makes good automatic transmission videos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KPK5eEdH4vM

hand tools, socket wrench.. torque wrench if you want to be nice but probably not 100% necessary and a couple hours

If you put in heavy duty bands and clutches its going to perform really well.

but it might just be a vacuum line or the fact its been sitting and maybe it needs its fluid changed

I would replace the torque converter if you are rebuilding the trans .. you can get one for $100 - $150 ..

but you know.. don't fix whats not broke...

I am just giving you info in case you take it some place and they tell you $1500 for a new trans...

well then you have junkyard like you said
or you can rebuild for under $400 and it will be better than new all heavy duty stuff inside
hardest part is probably the front and rear oil seals you just need to drive them in straight .. preferably with a large socket or something flat .. and they are really easy to tap in but everyone freaks about them heh.. even if it leaks its $10 or something to replace it.

I believe the 5000 lb. number is when you have the aux. Transmission cooler and a weight distributing hitch. You shouldn't need a weight distributing hitch when only towing 1700 lbs, but it sounds like you need a cooler for sure.

I'm not familiar with the KK at all, but when I did the install on my ZJ, I didn't need do take the radiator or condensor our like someone else commented about. I did take off the bumper and grill though. I just spliced into the rubber transmission lines with double barbed brass fittings with 2 fuel injector clamps on both ends, and ran new 3/8" high temp trans line in front of the radiator and mounted the cooler to the supports behind the grill. The fuel injector clamps are important, because the dont cut into the rubber lines linke the traditional screw type hose clamps.

Another thing you need to think about is if you want to isolate your aux. cooler from the in-radiator cooler you already have. Most factory Aux. cooler setups are plumbed in-line with the in-radiator cooler. I just completely took the in radiator cooler out of the equation and got an oversized cooler. It a lot easier to not have mess with the fittings on the radiator, since they always seem to be a pain and usually require special tools. It will make your engine run a tick cooler as well. Some people think that you need the in radiator cooler to "warm up" the transmission fluid in the winter, but I've had mine separated for years and I've driven in temperatures as cold as -17*. It took longer until it would shift into overdrive, but that seemed to be the only issue. I'm also not sure it actually warms the fluid up any faster because on initial cold start up the thermostat is closed, so the coolant in the radiator isn't circulating around the engine, so that coolant is just as cold as everything else.

By isolating the aux. cooler, you can also avoid the dreaded "strawberry milkshake", where the radiator cracks/leaks internally and your transmission fluid and coolant mix and gets pumped through the transmission creating a pink frothy goop, that will probably take out your transmission. Thats super rare, but it does happen, Xterras were known for that problem.

I'm sorry to hear about your buddy, I hope the benefit went well.

Oooh, I honestly dont know. I bought mine from the dealership but returned it as the original was still in good condition. I'd call the dealership and request the part number, they should be able to give you that. I found this, and apparently it will fit our Frontier, but I can't say with absolute certainty. ATP B-327 Automatic Transmission Filter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QBZD1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Q0N1AbVM9FDK2

Another thing I would recommend is checking with ClubFrontier. One of those guys is bound to know.

So here's the deal. The 2003 Accord is known for its rather weak automatic transmission. From what I've heard, it has a lot to do with heat buildup. My girlfriend's car has 210,000 miles and most likely needs to push another 50,000. The transmission shifts fine and I want to keep it that way. So, I added another larger oil cooler to the system, along with a spin-on filter to hopefully catch some particulates. I know the transmission has a filter, but they say its not serviceable and I feel like the extra surface area of the larger filter could help with cooling as well. I decided to put the oil filter between the two coolers so that the filter could catch the crap that may be stuck up in the existing cooler.

Hopefully this spurs an idea in someone else's head, it really wasn't all the difficult and (i hope) will save me thousands in the long run

SUPPLIES:

Spin-on filter and mount

Extra hose

Aftermarket cooler kit

Genuine Honda ATF

Extra spin on nice filter

First off, congratulations! The Si coupe is a brilliant car, both in terms of drivability and usability. It’s good to hear that the car already has some mods installed, but here’s a small little list I’ve made of other mods you could look into.

Performance Mods

• Hondata Flash Pro
  
• Acuity Throttle Spacer
  
• Eibach Front and Rear Sway Bar
  
• KSport Lowering Coilovers
  
• GReddy 304 SS Cat-back Dual Rear Exhaust
  
  

  Design Mods
  

• Mugen Shift Knob
  
• GarageLine 20mm Wheel Spacers
  
• Depo Type R Style Plug and Play LED Headlights
  
• Sporty Red Gearbox Trim CVT Only
  
  
  This is just a small list and I’m still building on it. Hope you can find some use for these mods!

It is a good and worthwhile upgrade.

There are tons of forum threads about this.

It's mainly about:

• Make or buy a cross member to support rear of trans (4L80e is one long SOB)
  
• If you run a pre LS 80e/conveter you will need a nose extender or different flywheel. https://www.amazon.com/Torque-Converter-Adapter-Spacer-Made/dp/B0767NT31G
  
• Getting new driveshaft made
  
• repin the 4l60e connector and segment swap PCM to control the 80e (last bit can be optional depending on who you talk to)
  
• plumbing lines for cooling the ATF
  
  You may also need to make sure the PCM has all the correct signals before it will command converter lockup.

200K miles on a gearbox with original transmission fluid is absolutely incredible.

Im sure it was changed once or twice. But that said, it couldnt hurt to spend $80 in fluid and a filter and try and replace it.

Its almost as easy as doing an oil change on the car.

Edit:

Fluid

Filter

So much money something thats not totally trashed. I believe this is a 4L60E, so more than likely its the 2-4 band which will also require a new reverse input drum ($100). With this I would just do a whole new clutch kit for $300 that comes with better Alto clutches. Are you mechanically inclined enough to pull the trans yourself and install it after rebuild? That would save you a bunch of money. I would also ask if you could provide the kit as you dont want some cheap no name clutch packs being installed.

https://www.amazon.com/4L60E-Transmission-Rebuild-Master-Power-pack/dp/B014UZ62WA/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Amazon for the O-Rings. I'll link below.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00A7849SY <--- Thick O-rings used as spacers

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00AKWQA5W<-- thin O-rings used as spacers

I'm in the UK, but O-rings to that spec should be available globally

The shim had to be fashioned from a pill pot- It's for an (expensive) topical canine arthritis medicine, so probably not one to go out and buy specifically.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014120G60

I'm experimenting with aluminium tubing cut to size from eBay + plasti dip to make it prevent it scratching the Anova. I'll post an update once the parts arrive, as if it works it will be superior in terms of strength/heat resistance.

Awesome indestructible motor keep oil in it... just add it why are you going to fix a little leak. If it’s the rear main pit this stuff in it https://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Bottle/dp/B000NVW1LM/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1543451340&sr=8-2-fkmr2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=engine+seal+restorer

Just checked, and it's not what I had guessed. Still don't know what it is, but this is what the sun shell looks like (aftermarket upgrade version) https://www.amazon.com/4L60E-4L65E-700R4-Beast-Shell/dp/B009GNB5LA

Not OP but I found this on Amazon and it looks like it's the same one https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-265-813-Transmission-Drain-Plug/dp/B00NF1PT8O

OP did you get a new seal or reuse the one that was there?

Amazon - Custom Rear Motor Mount Insert will fit Hyundai Veloster 11-14 Transmission Mount Upgrade Performance 65a https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MDVQZ0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nhc3DbDT25H86

I also had to replace my governor sensor for a similar issue. It's a black L shaped piece in the valve body of the trans. Also very easy to change.

Here's a link to buy one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004QCCJ2U/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_rDqDub0T2FR0D

And here's a video on how to change it.http://youtu.be/kvl-_-vY6rk

You can ask around and borrow a socket and wrench and physically look at sparkplug 3. Heck I'd recommend just changing it anyways, assuming you can easily get at it and it isn't buried in the back of engine.

The misfire could technically be caused from the air solenoid, so maybe that fixes everything.

You might just check the wire and plugs, then replace the VIAS first. You don't list your engine. But you can look this up on car parts places.
https://www.amazon.com/Control-Solenoid-Valve-14955-8J10A-K5T46673/dp/B01JIM1GEY

Coil pack is probably last thing to try.

Also, FYI, flashing ses means a catalytic damaging misfire event and you probably should drive more than a mile or two.

If the oil can only be traced from the ground/drip back up to the trans housing (not up to the CAS or valve cover gasket), then you are looking at rear main seal or trans front seal and there's no good way to tell without taking stuff apart. Depending on your ability to identify fluids, consider that clutch slave cyls often leak and check that.

I have, however, worked some minor miracles with this stuff: https://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Bottle/dp/B000NVW1LM At the very least it doesn't deteriorate the seals further like some gimicky products do. And for me it has actually worked.

Ball attachment for mirror hole
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009BIPGTC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cup holding device
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JUWL9X6/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Godspeed-Universal-Racing-Catch-Reservoir/dp/B00400XFQ2

Long Tru-Cool Max LPD 30,000 Transmission Oil Cooler 4921-1

Picked it up off Craigslist locally for $50. :-)

I decided that there would be no better time to learn than now. Can anyone confirm that this rebuild kit is what I'm looking for? https://www.amazon.com/Manitou-Tower-Pro-140-Rebuild/dp/B00UCMBKMI/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482944075&sr=8-2&keywords=manitou+tower+pro

Likewise, will this manual for the 2012 line be sufficient despite my fork being a 2013 model? https://www.manitoumtb.com/assets/Service%20Manuals/2012%20Service%20Manual.pdf

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066RUGGE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I think it fit inside the outer part of the old bushing. The ford part wasn't worth it for the car I was working on.

I don't remember. I'm fairly sure it's a Dorman Products 265-813, but remember to cross-check that with model/year/transmission. Probably Amazon.

You can try something like this and going to a heavier weight conventional oil (Lucas 85-140). It could wreck your car though. If you have a high mileage car you should probably learn how to fix it...Mechanics won't have the time for it and they often screw things up.

https://www.amazon.com/ATP-AT-205-Re-Seal-Stops-Bottle/dp/B000NVW1LM