(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best battery holders

It all depends. The battery in these things aren't going to be rechargeable. I would simply remove them. What you want are the charging circuit and the hardware in the pack itself. Once you remove the internal battery you could wire your own and just use 18650 rechargable batteries which are very inexpensive.

In the end it would cost you no more than $20 for a pretty cool DIY project which would help you quite a bit while traveling. You can get a 6 pack of 18650 batteries for $19 and get six of the holders and solder them in series. The batteries are 3000mAh giving you a power bank of 18000mAh for about $40. 18k mAh commercial power packs usually go for ~$60. So you do a cool project and save a few bucks.

Very cheap option: If you already have a BMDVA then you could use a consumer HDMI home transmitter depending on your room distance.

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So your signal flow would go: Source->Cheap (maybe monoprice) SDI to HDMI converter -> HDMI Wireless transmitter -> HDMI Wireless Receiver -> HDMI cable from receiver into BMDVA.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Wireless-Supporting-Transmission/dp/B071VCK1FG/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hdmi+wireless+transmitter+and+receiver&qid=1549747552&s=gateway&sr=8-3

To power the receiver in a wireless way you'll need power on the go. This provides 5v with the standard 5.5mm plug. Never put more than the rated amount of voltage into a device, or else white smoke magic will happen.https://www.amazon.com/Generic-Battery-Holder-Connector-Arduino/dp/B00O5AZI12/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=5v+5.5+battery&qid=1549747721&s=gateway&sr=8-11

Laggy option on the cheap: If you have a macbook get a BMD SDI Recorder : https://www.blackmagicdesign.com/products/ultrastudio, shove it into the macbook and OBS, and private stream over platform of your choice (Youtube/Twitch etc) and monitor with the Ipad wirelessy (as long as you have a house wifi network, or your own of course).Windows option: Elgato H60 is a piece of trash but does work.. most of the time. This option total would be around or less than $200. Hope that helps!

Yeah you could do that. Grab one of these as well.

https://www.amazon.com/18650-Battery-Box-Rectangle-Parallel/dp/B01FSDKG3O/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1549650837&sr=8-4&keywords=18650+parallel+holder

I would try and find a li-po pouch type with similar dimensions if possible but if that's not a problem then the 18650s should work fine.

White wire could be temperature check, not sure. Probably some sort of thermistor or resistor. Better off asking the person you take it to, to do some tests. They should be able to bypass it if needed.

Very nice. If I'm correct that is the Range Kleen Battery Rack. How do you like it?

Also for the C/D size rechargeables, you might consider 3AA to D and 4AAA to C adapters. For big devices like camping lanterns, that will give you a lot more battery life than 1AA-to-D or 1AA-to-C adapters.

I use 2 18650 protected batteries in series for a total of 7.4V nominal, like these: https://www.amazon.com/EBL-Protected-Rechargeable-Batteries-Lithium/dp/B01M63QPHH. I also needed to get a battery holder that would fit the slightly longer length of the protected batteries: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XT1DM74.

I'm using a PIC12 MCU at 3.3v with a linear regulator, but you should be able to run the battery directly into the Arduino and its on-board regulator will step this down to 5V.

If you're using the L298D modules that are all over the internet (as opposed to the chip directly), these have an on-board regulator that will step down up to 12V, so they can also take the 7.4V directly from the batteries. Just run separate wires from the batteries to this module as well.

Of course the logic lines for the L298D can be attached directly to the Arduino outputs.

If you can hack up a connector for inputting to a AA battery bank, then you could put D cells in an external battery box for much longer power.

If you solder something like this: AAA to AA adapter shell with wire leads that go to something like this: D cell box, then you'd be able to use the larger batteries in devices normally too small to fit them.

Sure

link to amazon

Hopefully that works. Should be a single adaptor for under $2 shipped.

This led me to find these - D cell obviously, but it nicely addresses the capacity issue

Yeah like using one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Adapter-Converter-Cylindrical-Transparent/dp/B07GQVZ79T

Yup, just get some of these adapters. The cells are held in parallel so they'll work with just 1 AA eneloop in each adapter, but putting more than 1 will increase runtimes a lot.

Sure thing. So first thing I did was go outside and find some Rocks. Probably the hardest part. Had to find one with a flat bottom that I liked. I then make a mold out of it using Silicon Smooth-on stuff.


After I had the mold I built the harness which is just the Flickering LED attached to a CR2032 Holder, a 150 resistor, and a Switch. Ill update the imgur album with pics of the process when im not making50 more of these.

After building the harness I mixed the resin One I used with some dye and poured it in. then I built a little holder to hold the harness just out of the resin and let it dry for 8 hours. Then bam 1 soul stone is made. You should have enough mold to make about 5 molds of different stones pending on size. Let me know if you have any other questions.

Buzzer: https://www.amazon.com/American-Scientific-Buzzer-with-Leads/dp/B003VP0DQ2#customerReviews

Door reed switch: https://www.sparkfun.com/products/13247

Battery holder: https://www.amazon.com/Single-AA-Battery-Holder/dp/B0090PHCRK

Wire it up and enjoy

There are also C cells for 4 AAAs. Neat.

Here is the battery pack I used if anyone is interested.
LAMPVPATH (Pack of 3) 2 AAA Battery Holder with Switch, 2 x 1.5V AAA Battery Holder Case with Wire Leads and ON/OFF Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CSXDTCY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_pbCTDbXRPN8G9

so basically, g305 takes AA batteries which are quite heavy, however you can use a AAA battery which is a lot lighter and smaller but it doesn't fit within the battery compartment, a lot of people use adapters like this one but that adds its own weight, so you can just make a ball of tin foil to put inside to bridge the connection which weighs next to nothing.

That sounds like an unnecessary complication to me. Consider soldering in a Vertical button cell socket and use a standard LIR2032.

You could connect the LED strip to a battery holder. Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00EPQK3DY

You could also get battery holder cases like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Holder-SACKORANGE-Storage-Plastic/dp/B06XSHT9HC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1510201168&sr=8-4&keywords=18650+holder

Something like this - 20 Pcs Button Battery Holder Case Black for CR/LIR2032 2025 2016 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E0JS27U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KoIDAbAWD44A2

Bluetooth audio receiver - $8.22
5v amp x2 - $2.45
Battery holder x10 - $0.40
Speaker - $6.00
Charging module - $4.70
Misc suguru, wires, solder etc ~ $5?
Edit: forgot battery and charger - $8.63
You can probably get these parts cheaper if you order from one source or in bulk, but you're probably looking at around $30 if you want a one-off.

Eesh! Strongly suggest you install one of these instead.

Cheapest I found on amazon just now with a quick search. Four for a tad under 8 bucks, you can buy larger packs though. https://www.amazon.ca/SODIAL-Battery-Converter-Adaptor-Cylindrical/dp/B00GONWQMM/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1550122890&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=aaa+to+aa+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=3109T1mRKDL&ref=plSrch

this will work

Two Panasonic NCR18650B 3.7V 3400mAh Rechargeable Li-ion Batteries QTY 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DHXY72O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_3LGQub1ZPPSXH



With these
2 Pcs Black 18650 Flat Tip Batteries Battery Holder Case w Wire Leads https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CQKBQBE/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_90GQub0CGQFKP

I ordered these and went around on a replacing spree a couple of years ago. I did everything from the old 286 to my Dreamcast.

Will these do the trick?

I'm assuming .5v drop as when I fire the device the battery volt indicator usually drops .4-.5v but I could just be reading it all wrong.

I am using 20g wires like the ones that come with it for load side stuff. Went with some solid core copper stuff I had as well as the wires that came with the chip, so I assumed it would be adequate. The only stuff I used other then that was some 24g but that was for the led button and the switches.

The varitube 510 didn't come with a negative solder point so I might need to check my solder joint as I had a heck of a time getting it to sick to the side of the brass nut.

Edit:

The battery holder is this but I cut off the original wires and soldered on some of the 20g stuff that came with the SX chip. Perhaps the spring and top contact just suck on this holder?