Reddit mentions: The best bearings
We found 179 Reddit comments discussing the best bearings. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 111 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. 500 Piece Assorted Loose Bicycle Bearing Balls 1/8", 5/32", 3/16" 7/32" & 1/4"
- Each size is individually packaged and labeled (see photos)
- Precision grade G25 balls
- 100 balls each of the following sizes: 1/8", 5/32", 3/16" 7/32" & 1/4"
- AISI 52100 chromium steel
Features:
Specs:
Color | Original Version |
Number of items | 500 |
2. VXB Brand Full Ceramic 608 Miniature Bearing 8x22x7 ID=8mm OD=22mm Width=7mm
- VXB Brand 608 Full Ceramic Bearing
- Zirconium Dioxide
- VXB Brand
- Balls: ZrO2 Ceramic
Features:
Specs:
Color | White |
Height | 0.86614 Inches |
Length | 0.86614 Inches |
Weight | 0.02 Pounds |
Width | 0.27559 Inches |
Release date | August 2017 |
Number of items | 1 |
3. VXB Brand 1000 lbs Capacity 12" Lazy Susan Bearing 5/16 Thick Turntable Bearings Made in USA 1000 lbs. max 15" inch to 30" inch Turntable Diameter Zinc Plated
- 12" inch Circular plate : Circle
- 1000 lbs. max
- 15" inch to 30" inch turntable diameter
- Zinc plated
- 5/16" inch Thick
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.3 Inches |
Weight | 1.6005559176036 Pounds |
Width | 12 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
4. Two 1" Inch Stainless Steel Bearing Balls G25
- High Precision Grade G25
- Finest Quality AISI 420 Stainless Steel
Features:
Specs:
Weight | 0.3 Pounds |
Number of items | 2 |
5. FaGoBearing (Pack of 20 608 ZZ Skateboard Bearings, Sackorange 608zz Double Shielded,8x22x7 Miniature Ball Bearings
Single-row bearing for supporting radial loadsThis 608zz bearing Shields on both sides keeping lubricant in and contaminants out.Shields on both sides of the bearing to keep lubricant in and contaminants outBearing steel, its quality is better than carbon steel,Dimensions suitable for use in such ap...
6. VXB 608 Full Ceramic Skate Bearing White Ceramic ZrO2 Rings with Si3N4 Black Balls 8x22x7 Ball Bearings VXB Brand
Item: 608 skate bearingsType: Full CeramicBearing Size: 8mm x 22mm x 7mmDimensions: 8*22*7 mm/MetricID (inner diameter)/Bore=8mm
Specs:
Weight | 0.07 Pounds |
Number of items | 1 |
7. ANCIRS, 20 Pack 608-2RS Ball Bearing - Double Rubber Sealed Shielded Miniature Deep Groove 608rs Bearings for Skateboards, Inline Skates, Scooters, Roller Blade Skates & Long boards (8mm x 22mm x 7mm)
- 20pcs 608-2rs ball bearing 8x22x7mm, rubber sealed deep groove.
- This 608rs bearing Shields on both sides keeping lubricant in and contaminants out.
- Material: Carbon steel, durability and resistance to deformity under heavy loads.
- Ideal for moderate load uses: skateboards, inline skates, scooters, and other skating applications.
Features:
Specs:
Color | 2RS Carbon Steel |
Size | 20 Pack Bearing |
Number of items | 20 |
8. 30 Bearing 608ZZ 8x22x7 Shielded Greased Miniature Ball Bearings VXB Brand
VXB Brand 608ZZ Ball BearingsDeep Groove Ball BearingsVXB BrandCarbon SteelMetal Shields 608Z
Specs:
Is adult product | 1 |
Height | 1.1 Inches |
Length | 3.9 Inches |
Weight | 1 Pounds |
Width | 3.4 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
9. Eight (8) 625ZZ 5mm x 16mm x 5mm Shielded Deep Groove Precision Ball Bearings
Deep groove geometry for high speeds and supporting both radial and axial loadsChrome steel for durability and resistance to deformity under heavy loadsShields on both sides of the bearing to keep lubricant in and contaminants out
Specs:
Number of items | 8 |
10. 608ZZ 8 x 22 x 7 mm Deep Groove Ball Bearing, 10 Pcs Double Metal Shielded, Fit for Skateboard Bearings, 3D Printer RepRap Wheel, Longboard, Roller Skates, Inline Skates, Scooters etc. (Pack of 10)
[PRODUCT TYPE & MODEL] Model type: 608ZZ. Product type: Single row deep groove ball bearings. Package Included: 10 pcs 608zz bearings.[608ZZ DIMENSIONS] Inner Bore = 8 mm; Outer Diameter = 22 mm; Width = 7 mm.[HIGH QUALITY MATERIAL] Material: High quality carbon steel.[PRODUCT FEATURES] Low noise. H...
Specs:
Height | 0.393700787 Inches |
Length | 3.543307083 Inches |
Weight | 0.02425084882 Pounds |
Width | 3.543307083 Inches |
Number of items | 10 |
11. Item # 501004, TU Steel-Backed PTFE Lined Sleeve Bearings - INCH
- Standard stock products
- Self-lubricating dry sliding bearing
- A steel-backed composite material comprised of:
- Low carbon steel backing allows for extremely high load capacity - thickness .50 – 2.7 mm
- Sintered bronze offers optimal heat dispersion – thickness .20 - .35 mm
- PTFE – lead sliding surface creates a low friction coefficient and allows for a wide temperature range – thickness .02 mm
- Can be used where many liquid lubricants fail; also performs well with lubrication
- Ideal for heavy loads at moderate speeds or light loads at high speeds – max Pv 102,000, P-Load 36,250, V-SFM-1,900
- Effective in temperature range of -328°F to +536°F
- Standard tolerances vary by size. See items for specific tolerances
- A lead free version is available on a made-to-order basis
- REACH, DFARS compliant
Features:
12. 100 3/16" Campagnolo Shimano Front Hubs Bicycle Loose Bearing Balls
High Precision Grade G25Finest Quality AISI 52100 Chrome SteelQuantity of 100 balls
Specs:
Height | 0.25 Inches |
Length | 1.999999998 Inches |
Weight | 0.11 Pounds |
Width | 1.999999998 Inches |
Number of items | 100 |
13. SMK 100 x 9.5 MM Carbon Steel Ball Bearings
100 x 9.5 MM CARBON STEEL BALL BEARINGS
Specs:
Height | 0.374015 Inches |
Length | 0.374015 Inches |
Weight | 0.007495716908 Pounds |
Width | 0.374015 Inches |
14. TROOPS BBQ Lazy Susan Turntable Ring - Heavy-Duty Aluminum Lazy Susan Bearing Hardware Single-Row Ball Bearings for Heavy Loads (450 lbs. Capacity) - 12 Inches
- LOW PROFILE & HEAVY LOAD CAPACITY – The aluminum Lazy Susan ring measures 12 inches in diameter with a low-profile 0.98 inch height. It can safely handle loads up to 300 lbs.
- SMOOTH TURNING WITH LESS NOISE – Each Lazy Susan turntable comes with a lubricated, single-row of ball bearings. They also have spacers between the bearings to ensure smooth rotation and act as a muffler to mute noise when rotating. Important: Not as "free turning" as Lazy Susan's without the spacers.
- PRE-DRILLED HOLES FOR SCREWS – We did the “heavy lifting” for you. Every swivel base comes with pre-punched 3/16" screw holes with tapered edges on the inner ring for rapid installation.
- DESIGNED FOR USE INDOORS & OUTDOORS – This Lazy Susan hardware is highly resistant to corrosion and rust, making it an excellent choice for indoor and outdoor applications.
- PRACTICAL FOR HEAVY OBJECTS – Use the aluminum rotating rings for items that require a stong base. Rotate ice sculptures, large woodwoking projects, wine barrel projects and more. Turn your ceramic smoker or favorite lounge chair with ease. Ideal for machinery like 3D printers, testing cabinets and heavy stone. The more weight on these rings, the better they turn.
Features:
Specs:
Height | 0.55 Inches |
Length | 12 Inches |
Weight | 2 Pounds |
Width | 12 Inches |
Size | 12-Inch Commercial |
Number of items | 1 |
15. 6000-2RS Bearing 10x26x8 Sealed Ball Bearings ID=10mm OD=26mm Width=8mm
- Item: 6000-2RS Ball Bearing
- Type: Deep groove ball bearings
- Closures: Rubber Seals
- Lubrication: Self Lubricated (Grease)
- Material: Chrome Steel
Features:
Specs:
Weight | 0.07 Pounds |
Number of items | 1 |
16. 2PCS Hybrid 6803 Ceramic Bearing ABEC-1| 6803-2RS 17x26x5mm Ball Bearing | 61803 Bearing
Dimensions: 17mm(ID.) x 26mm(OD.) x 5mm(T.)6803 Si3N4 Ceramic Bearing for BicycleType: Deep groove radial ball bearingsClosures: Sealed (2RS)Balls Material: Black Si3N4 Ceramic/Cage: Nylon Cage/Rings: Steel ABEC-1
Specs:
Number of items | 2 |
17. INA IR42X47X30 Needle Roller Bearing Inner Ring, Precision Ground, Metric, 42mm ID, 47mm OD, 30mm Width
- Inner ring to provide a hardened and precision ground raceway for a needle roller bearing
- Use with INA precision needle roller bearings and needle roller and cage assemblies (sold separately)
- Meets standard DIN 727
Features:
Specs:
Weight | 0.18 Pounds |
Number of items | 1 |
18. Sunlite Bicycle Loose Ball Bearings 5/32" Bag Of 144
- Hardened steel
- Quantity of 144
- Material type: Carbon Steel
- The Product is manufactured in united states
Features:
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 0.45 Inches |
Length | 1.9 Inches |
Weight | 0.2 Pounds |
Width | 3 Inches |
Size | 5/32" |
Number of items | 144 |
19. PKG (6) Large 3/4" Diameter Steel Ball Bearings
- Big Steel Balls Call 'em marbles for serious players or just something for the Captain to roll around in his hand on deck
- These 3/4" dia shiny steel ball bearings are substantial at 1
- Material type: Carbon Steel
- The Product is manufactured in united states
Features:
Specs:
Number of items | 6 |
20. Advantage Racing Products 8x16 Rubber Sealed Ball Bearings (10) 8x16x5 688-2RS
Includes Ten (10) High Speed Precision Steel 8x16 Ball Bearings. These bearings are perfect for any applications where 8x16x5mm 688 ball bearings are required.Direct Replacement For: Arrma AR610016, Associated ASC25236 ASC91564, Axial AXA1225, HPI HPIB085, Kyosho KYOBRG005, Losi LOS257003 LOSA6942, ...
Specs:
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 8 Inches |
Weight | 0.12 Pounds |
Width | 6 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on bearings
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where bearings are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
It honestly depends on your budget, how much are you willing to spend?
Here is a great list of prep and upgrades you can do to bring success to your prints:
-Get Vibration Dampners: I can not express how much joy these things have brought many users. The make your machine quiet and greatly decrease ringing in your prints since they ABSORB the vibration coming from your stepper motors. You really only need Two of these for the X and Y axis however you can get another two for the Z-axis drives if you plan on doing a lot of z-hopping.
-BUY FILAMENT IN ADVANCE: get some PLA/ABS/PETG or whatever you want to try printing with. The filament you get with the printer for the most part is garbage HOWEVER I recommend dialing in those settings first then throwing on some nice filament, it'll feel soooo nice. Some commonly accepted/appreciated brands are: eSun PLA+, Hatchbox, Solutech and more
-Get a PEI sheet: Seems like you mentioned this in your post but PEI sheets eliminate the use of gluesticks/tape/hairspray and provide excelent adhesion while making it easy to remove the part after it's cool. This things like to be hot though so increase your bed temp a little at first
-Buy New Fans: The stock hotend/power unit fans are Loud, Noisy and Inefficient. I recommend getting 1 new conrol box fan, 1 new hot end fan and 1 new part blower fan.
You will need 1 40mm fan, 1 50mm fan and a Blower fan or another 40/50mm fan depending on if you print a new hot end mount like a fang.
-Tighten every screw on the printer: You would be surprised how many screws initially are lose either from prior testing or such. Also make sure to test your belt tensions on your printer whne you get it. You want everything tight BUT NOT TOO TIGHT. Give it a snug fit then let it be. Also make sure your belts are 'pluckable' like a guitar string but not tought
-Get some bearings: You may want to get a few ball bearings for when you print out a new filament holder, the stock filament holder is terrible
-Buy some fasteners: M3 bolts and nuts are commonly used on the CR-10S having spares or additional fasteners for adding on parts/printed components to your printer is awesome to have on hand
-Replace the Hotend: This can get a bit frustrating but it can be worth it. If you want you can replace the hotend with something like a volcano or an all metal hot end to print at higher temperatures. With this you can also add on autoleveling if you have the correct mount printed
-Octoprint: I am not very familiar with octoprint since I don't use it myself however I know it can run on a CR-10S. If you want look into how to install octoprint on stock firmware, I know it's pretty easy to use a raspberrypi to remote into your printer as well using octoprint.
-Squash Feet: Replacing your stock machine 'feet' with squash balls or squishy gold balls can also help absorb vibrations from your machine to your table or where it is located. This helps a bit with part quality but it's mostly to reduce the noise carried through your furniture.
-Solder on connectors: If you want you can get some pin connectors to make your fans/electronics easy to switch out depending on your material you are printing, maybe you need a strong part fan or maybe you need a weaker one. It is easy to swap out if it's using a 4pin connector.
-Make an Enclosure: What could be nicer for your printer than a stable environment. Making an enclosure for your printer can help if you live in a rough climate area or if you want to reduce the noise as well.
-Get some Handtools: I'm not sure if you have any or not but some great tools to have are a screwdriver, hexwrenches and a soldering iron depending on how much work you want to be doing on your printer.
For convenience I've added some of the parts mentioned via an Amazon link for prices. I'm not saying buy these things exactly they are just a starting point for reference:
Nima Vibration Dampners:https://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Rubber-Vibration-Dampers-Printer/dp/B073FRZTDX/
40mm Fan (Noctua Brand): https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NF-A4x20-FLX-premium-quality-quiet/dp/B072JK9GX6/
Blower Fan (Part Fans):https://www.amazon.com/SoundOriginal-Humidifier-Aromatherapy-Appliances-Replacement/dp/B071WMHNG5/
PEI Sheet/Printer Surface:https://www.amazon.com/CCTREE-Printer-Surface-Creality-300x300mm/dp/B07543KHCT/
Squash Feet: https://www.amazon.com/PrideSports-Practice-Balls-Count-Yellow/dp/B00466W9X0/
M3 Bolts/Nuts:https://www.amazon.com/280Pcs-Grade12-9-Socket-Assortment-Storage/dp/B0742DDLQ1/
Raspberry Pi 3 for Octoprint: https://www.amazon.com/Raspberry-Pi-RASPBERRYPI3-MODB-1GB-Model-Motherboard/dp/B01CD5VC92/
Ball Bearings: https://www.amazon.com/625ZZ-Shielded-Groove-Precision-Bearings/dp/B01LWMT95S/
Hope this helps, have fun tinkering!
Already a lot of great answers by clever people here! I can add a bit on motors and electricals, but I also want to say that you're probably underestimating how big a 3' arm is. Imagine that on your desk- it takes up half a table! Sizing the motors for static torque alone doesn't work well, as the inertia at the end effector increases with length^2 which is proportional to dynamic torque, speed, and vibration. Larger limb sections are also heavier and more complicated to make, which makes them even more heavy. Sizing down a little bit will make the arm dramatically more stable and performant.
> Belts or Gears for the actuators?
For 3 lb @ 35" you're looking at a minimum torque of 12.2 N-m at the shoulder. That will require reduction. Belts are far cheaper than gears, especially if you have a 3d printer- plastic pullys work great, although they need to be well glued to metal shafts (NB that a shaft key will greatly reduce strength and durability). Red loctite is great for that. A single belt reduction can do 5x, although you can do 10x+ with idlers. Mcmaster is a good place for belts, but amazon has a small selection that can be cheaper.
Note that belts can be very rigid: highly tensioned, fiber reinforced belts at moderate torque (otherwise the teeth start pulling out) are actually stiffer than most gears, which have a grease film and a gap between teeth that has a slight initial give/backlash. The reason you switch from belts to gears is because you need to tension the belts more tightly for higher torque. Once the tension becomes hard on the bearings and gearbox frame, you switch to gears. Basically you want to avoid gears if at all possible; they're expensive, hard to find, and hard to mount without metal backplates and the ability to cut bearing mounts. SDP/SI is a good place to get gears.
> Once I know how much torque I need, how do I know which type of motor is best for me? Stepper, Servo, Brushless?
Depends how much you want to spend. Hobby servos won't work for a 35" arm, even the $350 dynamixels. You also don't want to be designing your own brushless drivers, and the range of robotics controllers for bldc is limited. You are basically stuck between NEMA 23 and odrive.
NEMA 23 is the cheap choice- you can get very big NEMA 23s on amazon, hook them up to a single-stage 5x reduction, and have gobs of torque and good control. You can even get NEMA 34 for affordable prices. The drivers are stupidly cheap- for <$70 all-in you can have an arduino-controlled joint with 15 N-m of torque and top out solidly over 500 rpm. Add a couple heat sinks and you can increase that a lot- 500+ watts no problem, or 7 watts per dollar.
Downsides are you don't get any regen (not so important on an arm), low/no backdriveability (although this can be nice since the robot usually holds position when it turns off), very loud operation, low efficiency, and pretty low acceleration. Brushless motors require higher reduction and closed loop control, but are quiet, efficient, and can be used to build very responsive + high regen robots. Driving them is the weak link: the 56 V odrive dual driver cost a whopping $150. However for $70-80 per motor you get 40-90 amps continuous for 2 to 5 kilowatts, WITH regen and accuracy to >512 steps. That can be over 20 watts per dollar for the motor, reduction, sensors and driver. The limiting factor is even finding motors that can handle that power.
If your budget is <$500, go for steppers. If it's >$800, I'd go for brushless. You'll get an immense amount of speed and power, both of which are very good for an arm with a 3' reach. Note that 3' is a very large arm- the weight of the arm itself will be very limiting if you don't used fairly sophisticated techniques. 8"-12" sections are a hassle to 3d print. Rotational inertia increases with reach^2 so you'll need quadratically more power for the same acceleration (and to fight wobble). A 26" arm will require only half the power.
> Do I start my design from the end effector or do I start at the base?
I'd start at the end effector- that will set your payload weight and the torque required at the next joint, and so on back to the shoulder. Doing it the other way requires a lot more iteration.
The one thing I always say on posts like this is to learn how to use bearings. Bearings are the #1 cause of wobble in poorly designed arms, and the easiest way to tell if the designer had any clue what they were doing. Use 608 bearings for everything you can. They're incredibly cheap and precise because they're used in skateboards- 20 to 50 cents each. They're deep groove bearings, which are excellent for machinery, and can take 300 lbs radial and 150 lbs axial static load and 2-3x that for dynamic load. They're easily a 50x better value than any other types of bearings. If you want other bearings (maybe very large thin section) go to onlinebearingstore, despite having a 2000s era website/name they're really great. Unrelated, theoringstore is also really great.
The most important thing to know about bearings is that they always, always need a preload. The bearing will not meet specs if it does not have some axial force. It will have a very noticeable play and will wear out quickly. This is why you always use bearings in pairs- not because they can't take it, but because you can't preload a single bearing. You need two bearings to be pressed together. I like disc springs for this, but shims and even just bolts also work well for providing the axial force. You can usually just set your preload by feel (so make it possible to bolt down one bearing closer to the other), but if you want to do the math it's good to aim for an axial force of 50% of the maximum radial force you expect. That can come from static load, or torque from twisting the bearing.
I'm pretty new to this too, I bought my Ender 3 Pro around the same time as you. Quiet printing is pretty high on my list as well as being able to print high-temp exotic filaments in the long term while maintaining reliability.
First upgrades I purchased were stiffer bed springs so I would be less likely to throw the bed out of level while removing prints or working around the printer and Capricorn XS tube since it has a more consistent internal diameter, fits closer to the filament, and can work with slightly higher temps. I also picked up a pack of bowden couplers recently as I noticed the end nearest the extruder is sliding past the coupler jaws on de/retraction; don't worry about that unless it's an issue for you. That's about $30 alone since I don't have a supply shop locally and have to order those parts in bulk. I had a Pi 3B laying around unused and flashed Octoprint onto it. Highly recommended. I have a replacement Noctua hotend fan, buck converters, and 5015 blower on order to quiet the fan noise; about $32. Just replaced the Meanwell psu fan with a 60x25mm Noctua I had lying around (Note: there may be better options in the 92-120mm range to replace part of the PSU housing, but that's what I had laying around). Next upgrade coming is the SKR Mini E3 with TMC 2209 drivers ($28) to eliminate almost all of the stepper noise. Also looking into a replacement for the control board fan and some vibration isolating feet for the frame. As far as higher temp printing I haven't made a lot of progress aside from buying a titanium all-metal heat brake ($11) winch I have yet to install or inspect, and looking into enclosure and electronics relocation avenues.
Either way the mods I purchased came in at around $100 US which should quiet the printer and help with reliability. Also looking into picking up a good M3-M4 bolt kit if any exist in the US.
Here are some links to the things I picked up and will, which may be helpful if you're in the US. Mostly from Amazon.
Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability | 8mm x 20mm yellow springs | Link | $6.98
Reliability | Capricorn XS Tubing | Link | $11.49
Reliability | PC4-M6 / PC4-M10 Pneumatic Bowden Fittings | Link | $11.99
Silence | Noctua 40mm x 10mm 3-pin fan | Link | $13.95
Silence/Various | LM2596 Adjustable Buck Converters | Link | $10.95
Silence | 24v 5015 Radial Ball Bearing Fans | Link | $7.19
Silence/Various | SKR Mini E3 w/ TMC 2209 drivers | Link | $28.81
High Temp | Titanium All-Metal Heat Brake | Link | $11.52
TOTAL: $102.88 US + Tax
Parts already purchased/ bought with printer
Type | Name | Link | Price
---|---|----|----
Reliability/High Temp | OEM Ender 3 Glass Bed | Link | $20
Reliability | Feeler Guage Set | Link | $5
Reliability | 608zz Bearings, using with this(My Remix), this, and this, though I like this design a bit better | Link | $5.98
QoL Improvement | Raspberry Pi 3B w/ Octoprint | Link | $34.46
Silence | Noctua 60mm x 25mm 3-pin fan, goes with this mod | Link | $14.95
TOTAL: $80.39 US + Tax
Future planned upgrades
https://www.amazon.com/501004-Steel-Backed-Lined-Sleeve-Bearings/dp/B00IG7O258
It's kind of expensive but that's the best I could find. If it won't work it should be a good place to start.
I've always had good luck finding stuff like this at ace hardware and lowes, in their fastener sections.
Good luck!
Aside from the aforementioned glass plate, there are several easy and useful mods. There's many threads going over this actually. Search around.
Get this and make some mods using the bearings. I made the Filament Guide along with a snap-in filament guide for closer to the spool. Both highly recommended.
Also using the bearings, I made a Spool Holder. Not crucial, but might save wear on extruder mechanism.
Get This or something like it and at least install the couplers instead of stock ones. I haven't replaced the tube itself yet. It requires fairly precise cutting but you can get PTFE tube cutting guides and cutters printed from thingiverse.
Get This and install it before glass bed or anything else, except for maybe a bed handle (which you can print from thingiverse. Handle isn't crucial but will help.
I haven't yet but will get:
Buy Spare Nozzles, including a hardened steel one if you want to do any amount of printing with wood-grain, metal or glow-in-the-dark material.
At nearly 26 year old bike. At the very least the grease is going to be full of grit and should be repacked. Yes bearing will fall out and you could loose them, but bearing balls are cheap. Pack of 100 3/16' is $5.53 on amazon. The biggest issue is reassembling the axles. It took me a bit and alot of frustration to get the front wheel to spin smoothly. The headset is much easier than hubs. Watch youtube videos, and make sure you have the right tools before you start. There is a thing about to much grease, so dont go overboard. At the worst, you would need to take it to the bike shop and get a hand reassembling. Best case, you learn how to take care of the bike and more about its function.
Convincing your Dad you should do it, I cannot give you a sure fire way. Maybe compare it to a car, you change the oil every 3000-10000(new cars) miles, Tires get changes, air filters. Regular maintenance. Bikes need it too. Lubing the chain, checking the air pressure, replacing worn out wheels. Replacing stretched chains.
At the very least, I would get a chain checker and see if the chain is stretched. If it is, it will wear out the chain rings and cassette which if those are original might be worn out too. The jocky wheels on the rear derialer might need to be serviced. Those have small bearings and if they are play in them, should be replaced.
My Dad was the same way, in 50 years I have never done that to my bikes and they just worked. Yes they do work but not smoothly or efficiently. I just do stuff without talking to him (at first), now I take care of his bike and he does admit it is nicer to ride.
2 [Neodymium Cup Magnets] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAEF59W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wrZ6ybYNF05FF) glued together (Note the magnets will repell slightly because they're backwards, I held them together while they dried with a potato bag clip)
And a [3/4" Diameter Steel Ball Bearing] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008L3V098/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_isZ6ybP374PVF)
The glue I used was Gorilla glue, the one that dries white and expands some. It worked really really well. I could scrape it off with my knife if there was too much but it's also incredibly strong. I recommend this over soldering because the ball needs a tiny bit of space as a track to roll around and because the glue expanded it provided a track to go around. Otherwise solder it if you have a mini washer to use as a spacer.
I've also dropped it on hard floor a few times and no marks or any signs of damage.
The only real difference from this an the Orbiter is that the centers are incredibly attractive unlike the Orbiter, they are also not as concave but the ball will still fit into the divot. But because of the high attraction it won't roll around in that divot but you can still run your thumb around the stationary ball which feels nice. There is also a hole in the center of this so I can expand on this toy too :)
- squibs
- french bangers/petards
- firecrackers (maybe)
other methods. slingshot/hunting slingshot - nice and cheap. I think you get ones for fishing. Buy one of them, the ball bearings, then shoot at a vase from a safe angle (including the camera) and it'll shatter. will be hard to spot the ball bearing in the picture too. may want to put a board up nearby so the ball bearings aren't flying off rogue like and shattering something unintended after it's hit the vase.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/100-CARBON-STEEL-BALL-BEARINGS/dp/B00HPX4CF4/ref=asc_df_B00HPX4CF4/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=256147632124&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1763086756406444962&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9046118&hvtargid=pla-718792104178&psc=1
rifle. even those ones you get at the fair that you put the little metal pellets in. again, these will shatter a vase - you won't see the pellet on screen - just be sure you're not aiming at the lens, or a crew member ;)
best of course if the projectile is hitting from behind, so the stuff flies forwards. from the sides and it'll look pretty silly, just like a bullet not like an exploding vase.
safety glasses recommended at all times. it's not worth you or your crew losing an eye just for a shattering vase. be safe, but good luck!
I believe it was an 18" pine round board from Lowes. Pine is a bit of a softer wood, but I got it because it was cheap, just about the right size, and I had a gift card with enough left on it to cover the purchase. I reused my existing hardware and mounted the uprights perpendicular to the grain and countersunk the holes, using washers to prevent and chances of the wood splitting.
For the azimuth bearing itself, I've tried a few different things:
Lazy susan sometimes works, sometimes doesn't
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071CPFGJT
Inside this bearing raceway is a plastic spacer that separates the bearings-- I left this in there, as it added just the right amount of friction to prevent the base from spinning too freely. On my XT10 rebuild, it happened to be perfect and I needed no modifications to get the right balance of movement and friction. It was a one and done type of deal.
On a separate dob base rebuild, using the same type and size bearing, it was spinning too freely and I needed to add friction-- sometimes a couple folded cotton socks wedged in between the boards would work great, but later became unbound...then I tried felt pads that rode against the wood...which sometimes worked, other times too much friction... results were inconsistent and I wound up ditching the lazy susan on that build, opting to use furniture sliders against a 99 cent vinyl record from a thrift store. The texture on the vinyl record provided a proper amount of friction to interface with the furniture sliders. Not the best movement, but served its purpose.
Quite a few ways to skin a cat and if I were to do it again, I'd try it with FRP wallboard and virgin teflon pads:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Glasliner-4-ft-x-8-ft-White-090-FRP-Wall-Board-MFTF12IXA480009600/100389836
My ES truss dobs use this exact material against virgin teflon and it performs very well. I have no problems tracking at high power. This is one of the tried and true combinations among ATMers, and you should be able to find someone who can sell a 16" x 16" cut, as hardware stores usually only sell it in huge 4'x8' sheets. I'll probably pick up a huge sheet of this to play around with.
Formula track hubs take a 6000 cartridge bearing. The "6000" is just a name for 10x26x8mm (Inner diameter x Outer Diameter x Width) bearings.
I've just replaced mine on my winter bike with VXB bearings and they've been great for wet conditions. I've used some other bearings as well on other bikes, but the VXB's seem to be my favorite value so far. Actually, I've got VXB's on 3 wheelsets as of now.
If you only ride in dry conditions, you could go for a "better" bearing, which should give you less drag. But usually, "better" (ceramic) bearings often have non-contact seals, which definitely don't seal water and dust out as well as their labyrinth-sealed or contact-sealed counterparts.
Just look up 6000 series cartridge bearing, or just find a 10x26x8mm bearing by Phil, Enduro, or some other reputable company. If the name of the bearing has some letters and numbers after it, like 6000-2RS, it usually describes the seals used. So a 2RS is 2 Rubber Seals.
EDIT: Stuff
It’s tough at the beginning getting all things. I was like you, I went for hardware shops for brass nut and bearings but I ended up with nothing, my only choice was to order online. I live in Malaysia as of now and my online sources are the Chinese Taobao, or the Malaysian Shopee and Lazada.
For bearing, you can check the full list at:
https://www.bearingworks.com/bearing-sizes/#table-of-contents
Most common bearings from what I know used for ring spinners are 6803/61803 and 6703, some other choices are considerable like 6903. Based on the link above you can see the differences of each. Back to your question, I can only suggest getting them online like Amazon if you live in the US, like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Bearing-6803-2RS-17x26x5mm-61803/dp/B0758F464W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=6803&amp;qid=1574536512&amp;sr=8-1
You can look around for cheaper ones, I got mine for about 3$ from Shopee.
For a brass nut, something like this would do:
https://www.amazon.com/FidgetKute-Select-Size-M10-M12/dp/B07RB1B9VX/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=brass+nut+m24&amp;qid=1574536643&amp;sr=8-6
These are just examples, you should choose carefully the type/size of the nut based on your liking and the size of the bearing you picked. I also suggest Aliexpress, they have good prices.
About the lead poisoning, I really have no idea, I think it should be fine as long as we don’t digest anything from it, I have to do more research to know about it.
Yes, this. Do not put a cutting wheel on a drill press directly. The spindle is not configured for side loads and could pop right out, and you will not have a good time. In this case, there is a heavy-duty arbor supporting the cut-off wheel from below (under the tarp), and the drill is only providing the torque from above, with a double-U joint to compensate for misalignments.
Mostly I do lapidary work, not metal. I don't have the space to set up a flat lap machine, so I put a lot of effort into adding that function to my drill press. Sturdy base, strong motor, already taking up space. Got Covington Engineering to make me a custom arbor by assembling one of their standard ones upside down, so the wheel mounting flange is on the same side as the housing support flange. Pressed a sleeve bushing onto the housing to raise the diameter slightly, and I can swap it out with the table on my drill press with a secure fit. Couples to the drill with a Lovejoy DD3 double U-joint. (The bottom of it was drilled and tapped to fit the arbor, the top gets chucked into the drill.) Typically used for grinding, sanding, and polishing stone, inside a tub with a constant water spray. I took that apart to jury-rig the saw. Only new thing I bought here was the tarp.
vxb.com has cheaper bearings, better quality control, and faster shipping. They even give you the better silicone nitride balls instead of the zirconium balls in your post...
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002BBQDW0/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_328_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=47JQJW50MCFDYSRDPSK3
VXB: http://www.vxb.com/608-Full-Ceramic-8mm-x-22mm-x-7mm-Miniature-p/608zr02-zr02-ptfe.htm
The vxb website shows zirconium balls but when I bought it I was given the silicone balls which is false advertising, but in a good way, because silicone is better.
If you have a good relationship with your LBS and they'll sell what you need from their bulk supply, that is awesome. My LBS experience is that they carried single-serve packs that were pretty pricey.
Here's an amazon link for 5/32. Check the "other people buy" list for different sizes and quantities.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0012LFT7U
https://www.amazon.com/Rubber-Sealed-Bearings-8x16x5-688-2RS/product-reviews/B00F4BZ8XE
Just make sure you take off the bearing every time you clean the brush and get the hair out of it. That maintenance with the sealed bearing insures there will never be a problem. Really the only flaw of this cleaning robot imo. It's such a good cleaner that ive forgiven it of this short coming.
OnDaq,
This one from Amazon seems like a pretty good deal.
https://www.amazon.com/VXB-Ceramic-Miniature-Bearing-8x22x7/dp/B01JKBUR1Q
It's a full ZrO2 bearing. There are two types of ceramic bearings (Si3N4 Silicon Nitride, and the ZrO2 Zirconium Oxide). Then you have full or hybrid. A full means that all components of the bearing are made from those elements. The hybrids will usually have the ceramic balls and the rings/races are made from some other material. Just make sure the size matches to the existing bearing in your spinner if you're buying a replacement online.
Regards,
Nate
I like these
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007B2A84S/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
because its stainless you can put it in directly with the food, and they are pretty heavy for their size, quite helpful
Here's a pic of it. The Tower
It stands a little over 6ft tall. It's 5 tabletops, and 4 sets of legs, with the 5th top acting as the base. Each table is 21.5 inches square and the tops of 2in tall and the legs 15.5. It sits on top of this, so it can rotate. The joining plates come from Home Depot. Here's a pic.
I originally joined them with flimsy screws and plastic joiners that came from Ikea's free spare parts areas, but I didn't trust them once the tower would be fully loaded. I'm not much of a craftsman, but I'm happy with it. All told it cost me about $45. ($5 per table, + Joining plates/screws + Lazy Susan)
I mostly use it to hold games that get played a lot, so it's not a shot of my whole collection.
That's why I suggested clear marbles, to minimize the impurities, but clear leaded glass crystal is a thing. OP could also pick up some large food grade stainless steel or ceramic ball bearings, but I didn't suggest that originally because of the expense.
https://www.amazon.com/Inch-Stainless-Steel-Bearing-Balls/dp/B007B2A84S
https://www.google.com/search?q="food+grade"+large+"stainless"+steel+ceramic+"loose"+"ball"+bearing
But ultimately you could play the "possible unsafe impurities" game with just about any material unless you personally have it tested.
Honestly I should just buy a 20 pack of these and then print a frame that holds them all in a circle so the hose can have a perfectly smooth track to go through
It's easier than that, even:
Just buy an assortment of bearings. They're cheap. Then when you take it apart, you will definitely have the right size, just match the old ones to the new ones... Which will be 1/4", since this is an 80's Japanese bottom bracket and will be totally standard. ;)
(edit: And then you'll have bearings for your hubs and headset too!)
Got a 35$ Amazon gift card from work. There are so many spinners on Amazon I don't know what to get. Suggestions? I was thinking of getting an inexpensive one then replace with a fully ceramic bearing. Thoughts? This is the combination I was thinking (comes to just under 35$)
Spinner
Bearing
Thanks! The bearing is a full ceramic one I got on Amazon. The design is not mine. It is from Thingiverse, called the Cog Triple Spinner Reddit formatting apparently doesn't agree with mobile sharing links. I fixed it though.
I would buy something like this assortment, pick the one that's the right size, put some grease on 'em, and get on with life. The extras will be useful for something, eventually.
edit: typically, you fill the race up with bearings, and then remove one. So if it takes 10 to fill the race with balls, use 9.
You can use something like this. I would use a gear motor with a friction drive against the perimeter of the turntable, it's the simplest. One thing though: unless you make very sure the turntable is absolutely level, it may slip or move unexpectedly if the person shifts weight.
ohhh okay, I was thinking a stationary stand, with a television that could rotate 180 degrees to face either way
what you're talking about would be referred to as a "turntable". You might just have to make it yourself by driving an anchoring piece into the floor, then adding small casters to the corners if need be.
you would want a bearing swivel plate to mount to the floor, base it with wood to the height you need, and then mount your table.
something like this will even hold 1000 pounds and they're used in cabinet making. Which is basically what you are doing.
The rail systems are over $50, typically.
Get some decent bearings - I used these @ $10 for 30 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBD6X4
For those bearings a 5/16" steel rod (about $2/ft, purchased at Lowe's) fits in nicely. Mount two of those bearings on the rod and sandwich it between two pieces of wood (or steel if you desire) and it'll ride atop a 3/4" wood rail smooth as butter. Put as many of these as you want along the top of your barn door and for about 1/10th of the cost you have the same thing.
I need to finish up and post photos of the system I did, it's just too expensive to buy a few pieces of metal.
Well, they'll work, but they'll probably spin for 10 seconds max. If you're getting a 3d printer spinner, you can get those cheap bearings for the edge holes and then get 1 good center bearing. I'd go with this one. May be more than you wanted to pay but off brand bearings won't spin long at all
Thanks, I used regular skate bearings. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C6FL8TW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You may love him but he does not reciprocate the feeling.
Or $9.95 with free shipping on Amazon.
A friend of mine uses a large stainless ball bearings as whiskey stones.
It'll rotate but not smoothly. I'd recommend you use turntable hardware instead. Read all the comments on the page to get a better understanding.
Also, remember that if your room is 4x4, a 4x4 square won't rotate in it, you'd have to make it circular or a smaller square.
Are you sure? Most BB bearings are about 1/4 in.
In any case, amazon sells them for cheap
Ex: https://www.amazon.ca/BC-Precision-BCBIKE5-500-Piece-Assorted/dp/B018B7D05K/
> A 1/4" bearing from a "bike specific" company is the exact same thing as a 1/4" bearing from any other company
As long as they're not a terrible grade... Grade 25 is typical for bike use these days and they're cheap enough not to bother with something like a grade 300. There are still grade 300's being sold by bike companies, but like you said, they're more expensive (even though they're lower quality).
You should definitely replace any missing ball bearings, they are pretty cheap and will make the bearings smoother than they would be with some missing. Here are some bearings i got in the past that are good, but you can always just get the individual sizes you need instead.
Most hardware stores sell bearings in the specialty hardware section. Or something like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B018B7D05K
Can't say for sure without knowing what size/specs, it will vary by brand as well, but this one I picked at random on Amazon says it's 0.6 ounces most will be around this.
Surprisingly cheap. Here is a grab bag of 500 bearings of assorted sizes between 1/8 and 1/4" for $8.
This is what I use (for the middle bearing):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JKBUR1Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
(for the outside bearings)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBD6X4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I timed my spin to 2mins 20 seconds. Not too bad
You can get an assortment of bearings on amazon. I got these when i serviced my bike: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018B7D05K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Amazon, we got a pack of 30 for ~$12
I think it was these: 30 Bearing 608ZZ 8x22x7 Shielded Greased Miniature Ball Bearings https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002BBD6X4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OykNybTZ859CZ
Here you go, it was for 14$ but still, cheap. link
This is what I use.
http://www.amazon.com/Capacity-Bearing-Turntable-Bearings-VXB/dp/B0045DV04I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1408495735&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=12+lazy+susan+bearing
Found it.
6000-2RS Bearing 10x26x8 Sealed Ball Bearings
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBFDGM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I use these
I used
1.26" Neodymium Cup Magnets (qty 2) from Amazon
3/4" Diameter Steel Ball Bearing (qty 1) from Amazon but only had a 6 pack
As far as the bearing goes, I've seen them from $10 (vxb via amazon) all the to the $100s. I personally haven't bought any full ceramic ones yet, but I'm waiting on some of the spinners I ordered to arrive so I might be looking to replace them if I'm not content with the ones that come in the unit.
Sorry, it's 3/4 inch...
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008L3V098/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
For less messy amazon links you can extract the part after "/dp/" in
https://www.amazon.com/Ceramic-Bearing-8x22x7-Bearings-VXB/dp/B002BBQDW0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484208187&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=vxb+ceramic
and make it:
https://amzn.com/B002BBQDW0
BEEP BOP
Plz send any recommendations via PM
No, the lowest I see anywhere is a pack of two for bones red but for 1 dollar more (5.50 if you divide 9 by 2) you can get a single all ceramic bearing
I took off my sheilds with a knife. But that is because I bought ones with non-removable shields. Here is a video which apparently shows how to remove the shield