Reddit mentions: The best bike cassettes & freewheels

OK, so you've got a Shimano TX71 crank up front. That's pretty low-end, and I don't think the rings are replaceable, so if they're worn out you'll need a new crankset.

The rear set of gears is called a "cassette" (in your case, older bikes had freewheels). It's a 7 speed Sun Race 11-32.

The chain is chain...no big deal on that as long as it matches your cassette. 7 speed chain should be used with 7 speed cassettes. 8 speed chain is the exact same as 7. 7/8 are the same width, etc. 9 speed chain is narrower, weaker, and wears out faster, and it costs more than 7/8. 10 speed chain is again narrower, weaker, etc. And again for 11. Anything above 8 speeds is silly, especially on anything other than actual racing bikes. It's just more money and trouble, so please don't buy in to the marketing gimmick of 10/11 speed "upgrades", I promise you they won't actually make your ride better.

My opinion said, let's move on to replacing these worn out parts.

Let's start with the crank. You'll need some specialized tools to work on this, but they're not too expensive and a worthwhile investment. You'll need a square-taper crank puller, such as the Park CCP-22. That's needed to remove the cranks.

Next you'll need a tool to remove the bottom bracket (the bearings/spindle bit the cranks attach to. Yours is probably pretty worn out. The thing with BBs is they come in many lengths, such as 122mm, 118mm, etc. The length is determined by the crankset you use, not by your frame, so if you replace your crankset, chances are you'll need a different BB length. Also, many newer cranksets have built-in BBs, since, like I said, BB and cranks are pretty tied together. You'll need to get your old BB out, and you'll need a BB tool for that. Chances are your BB would be one compatible with the Shimano 20 tooth 'Isis' style: BBT-22. You can tell if this is the case by looking at your bike. Behind the crank you'll see a the outside edge of the bottom bracket, if it's got a bunch of small indentations like this, then it's an Isis style one.

Now you'll have the old crank and BB removed. Next you'll need to get a replacement. I'm not sure your budget, so I'll just go with some 'middle of the road' recommendations. This is what I have one some of my bikes: Race Face 22-32-44 Crankset and BB. This is a pretty good deal, since it's a fairly nice crankset AND it comes with its own BB, so you don't have to get that separate. The BB included is an outboard bearing style, which will be a bit different looking than your old one, and require another tool, as it's not compatible with the BBT-22. It requires an outboard bearing wrench like the BBT-29. Even after purchasing this extra tool, the Race Face crankset is an exceptional deal.

Alternatively, you can source out a square-taper style crankset replacement (like your old one), and if you luck out, your old BB will be in ok enough shape and be the right length. Chances are that's not the case, and you'll need to replace the BB too, and end up spending just as much as that RaceFace. The one minor issue with the Race Face one is it's slightly smaller than your stock one, and I don't know if your T30 is one of the ones with a cover over the chain, and if so, there may be a slight gap if you used a slightly smaller crank. If you don't have a chain cover, this wouldn't be an issue, and going from 48 to 44 would probably be an improvement, unless you often ride really really fast.

Next you'll need a rear cassette. Your stock cassette was an '11-32'. This means your smallest sprocket was 11 teeth and largest was 32. When combined with a 22/32/44 crankset, a cassette with 32t as the largest gear is a real 'stump puller'. The 22:32 ratio is probably MUCH lower than you'll ever use, unless you routinely climb mountains on your bike. I'd recommend something a bit 'tighter' such as 11-23 or 11-25. Unless you're REALLY fast and routinely in your largest gear in the front and smallest in the rear, going over 25MPH, I'd also suggest not getting a cassette with an 11t small gear. I'm pretty fit and very very rarely 'spin out' my fastest gear, which is 44:12 for me. 44:11 is a good bit faster a gear, but I'd guess you don't actually need that sort of gear. The choice is up to you, but I recommend these cassettes: 11-24 or 12-24 and 11-28 or 12-28. Dropping the range down from 11-32 to 12-24 means you'll shift your front gears a bit more often, and in return, you'll have a better spread of gearing options, with more usable gears and less duplicate gears. I highly doubt you use more than 44:12 and less than 22:24 ratios as it is, as those are pretty damn fast and pretty damn low gears.

You'll need a cassette tool to remove your old cassette and install the new one. FR-5 Cassette Tool, and you'll also need a chain whip: SR-1 Chain Whip.

As for the chain, any 7 or 8 speed chain will work. I recommend this one: KMC 72. Shimano chains are GARBAGE and wear out way faster than other brands. SRAM chains are ok. Wipperman are good and KMC is good.

All of these tools have videos on their use on Park's website, and are available on Amazon for reasonable prices. If you want to save a few bucks, there's some non-Park versions of said tools for cheaper. I have a Topeak brand chain whip, for instance, and it's every bit as good as Park's.

Let me know if you have any other questions. Hopefully this long post helps.

Sorry not get back to you sooner was really busy yesterday. The 96 model think would have had cantilever brakes as stock, V-brakes were brand new when this came out, and prety sure the Indy forks didn't come out on bikes until 97 model year.

So parts list of stuff to buy

Cassette:

https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-8-Speed-Nickel-Plated-Cassette/dp/B00DI65HGU

Chain:

https://www.amazon.com/X8-99-Bicycle-Chain-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B0013BV540

You might want to buy two you will want to carry a spare chain on tour

Tires:

https://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Crossmark-Black-Fold-Tires/dp/B00GHTQ7Q4?th=1&psc=1 (might find cheaper elsewhere, but you want the dual compound/DC ones with the EXO casing ideally - there are cheaper options for tires that would work than these but I think it's one area it's not so good to cheap out on)

Shifters:

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SL-M360-Acera-Shifter-Speed/dp/B001ON6VIW

(or find some vintage 8-speed XT/LX ones from eBay, they are a little nicer)

Brake pads:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

These should make a decent improvement to braking power especially in the wet, you could bring the old pads on the tour as spares/backups if they still work OK and have life left (always want to have at least a pair of spare pads)

New cables:

https://www.amazon.com/JAGWIRE-MOUNTAIN-SHOP-KIT-Derailleur/dp/B01DJGUEE8

You'll need at least new inner cables to install new shifters, and probably a good idea to replace the housing too, though you need either really good cable cutters or a Dremel/rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to cut housing, or get a bike shop to cut it to length. Not suggesting white colour that was just the first link I saw though it might look pimp.

Tools:

You could get a tool kit like one of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nz/en/x-tools-bike-tool-kit-18-piece/rp-prod40997

Or you could buy a multitool that would be good for bringing on the tour

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrelli-Bike-Multi-Tool-V19/dp/B06XGWMGB9

And extra stuff like cassette tool and chainwhip and tire levers individually:

https://www.amazon.com/Oumers-Freewheel-Sprocket-Lockring-Maintenance/dp/B07GSRJGP3

https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-1847-Bicycle-Tire-Levers/dp/B000UAQL6C

That might be the way to go.

That's not everything you'd need to go touring and stuff like the bars and saddle are a lot about personal taste but should be good to get you started.

Apologies for using amazon.com links I'm too used to helping Americans on here but hopefully can get them on the .ca site. Chain Reaction that I linked the toolkit from (would be confident that's the best out of those three kits I have some of the tools from it) in the UK can be a good place to order stuff from

Hey guys I am looking for input on my current build. Tried to post earlier but it got removed without telling me why.

I originally bought the basic parts in fall of 2018 which included:

19" GT Agressor Pro from Dick's Sporting - $295

27.5" Conversion Kit 35MPH from LeafBike.com - $508.13

52v 14s9p-pf 25.7AH Triangle Battery Pack from EM3ev.com - $827.4

Rear Cargo Rack from Amazon - $25.99

SKS Velo Snap-on Fenders from Amazon - $21.65

BikeHand Toolkit from Amazon - $49.99

Shimano HG41 from Amazon - $16.70

Torque Arm from Amazon - $16.50

Park fr52 from REI - $7.15

Tire Liner from REI - $17

Tubes from Walmart - $20

Total $1825.51

Hot Damn! Never actually did the math that is quite a bit more than i thought it cost, I'm a little embarrassed I've been telling people that it cost around $1300 lol boy the shipping and tax just kills you!

Anyways it all arrived without issue (Thank goodness) and I put it together (minus the pedal assist due to a crank removal fiasco) with some difficulty as a number of things required modification to work. That rear wheel is an absolute biatch to install. I have had an absolute blast with it both on and off road since then. Only major gripe is with the controller, hella loud and super weak regen breaking.

Just recently decided to do some additional tweaking with the bike. Went on another spending spree over at Aliexpress. Ended up buying the following parts:

Pedals - $21.45

Longer Handlebar - $8.80

External Bearing Bottom Bracket and Cranks - 32.66

Four Pairs of Brake Pads - 5.29

3-Button switch - $27.49

Handlebar Grips - $2.66

Torque Arm - $8.35

Left hand thumb Throttle - $5.67

Lights DC 12v-48v - 20.89

42 tooth Chain ring - 17.60

Pannier - 30.51

1xSchwalbe MTB 27.5 2.25 - 50

Total $231.44

Already installed new bottom bracket and pedal assist (with some modification lol) and its amazing!

I am about to start getting into the electronics so i figured i would ask for advice before i solder everything up in case you guys come up with a better way to do things.

Anywho I am getting rid of those handle grips with the twist throttle in favor of a left handed throttle, this will allow me to shift on the rear cassette a lot easier. Then its on to replacing the super cheap switch (cruise, regen, reverse) with the Aliexpress switch (cruise, horn, lights, gonna short regen for always on) and add lights. Considering adding another on/off point for security but cant think of a great way to do that... Right now i have the BMS on/off at the battery itself (momentary switch) and the power on the LCD display itself.

Also anyone have a line on a cheap controller with strong regen breaking and sin wave fets? I see the ebikes.ca but looks like that requires cycle analyst v3 for pedal assist which doesnt seem to display information nicely plus itll cost around 265 for both...

Ok interesting. Considering your current high gear of 14 tooth and 7 speed configuration, you probably have a freewheel system on your rear wheel, as opposed to a cassette, two different ways of mounting the rear cogs. You probably won't be able to get an 11 tooth cog that some have suggested on your wheels as it is. There are 7-speed freewheels with a 13 tooth high cog, which could give you almost 8% more top end if you need it, though, and they aren't too expensive. Those freewheels need to be replaced every so often, maybe swap it in next time you replace the chain. Swapping out the front chainring is possibly an option, but it is more complicated because of a lot of factors, and possibly not really a practical option for you without replacing a lot of stuff. (RD Chain Wrap Capacticy, Chain Length, Crank BCD, FD Max capacity and position, ask your bike shop)

I think that if you are really enjoying the fun and utility of riding, you could be well served by eventually buying a nicer bike. You will gain a significant amount of speed from a bike that is a little lighter and more efficient with some better quality parts, and ultimately for less money than trying to upgrade a lot of things on yours. The current sweet spot imo for price to performance ratio for a general purpose bike is around the $650-$800 hybrid range, with 9x2 or 9x3 gearing and probably disc brakes. You can probably eventually pick one up used for 60% new price if you keep an eye on local classifieds.

Okay, so that sort of performance doesn't come cheap.. Usually. If you're okay with mediocre-ish engagement, there are some cheaper SS hubs out there, or if you can get lucky and find a Halo DJD SupaDrive, that seems like it'll be your best bet.

Here are some options for high-engagement hubs (nobody makes a high-engagement freewheel in a size that will work well with your front sprocket):

• Novatec D252SB-BO-AA: 40~ish PoE/9 degrees (don't recall exactly what the sales rep told me but it's in that ballpark). I just got one directly from Novatec for $84.95 US, plus shipping. It's nothing to write home about, but it will allow you to use a 12t cog like this one. Engagement on it is decent but not amazing. The freehub body is aluminum, so make sure to use a wide-base cog.
  
  
• Hope Pro 4 Trials/SS: 88 PoE/ 4 degrees. These hubs are bombproof and modular. If you ever decide to put it on a different bike, you can adapt it to 135x10mm, 135x12mm or 142x12mm through-axles. It's also QR compatible out of the box. I had this hub before and loved it. Average price online is $200 US. Freehub body is steel, so you shouldn't have to worry about getting a wide-base cog.
  
  
• Halo DJD SupaDrive: 120PoE/3 degrees ($180-$250... IF you can find it): This one would probably be your best bet, since Halo sells drivers for it ranging from 10t to 16t... IF you can find a store that has it in stock/can get it.
  
  
• Profile Classic SS: 48 PoE/ 7.5 degrees. For $252 before shipping, I honestly couldn't recommend this hub over a Pro 4 Trials or the Novatec SS hub.
  
  
• Industry 9 Torch SS: 120 PoE/3 degrees. These things are nukeproof in their own right, with 6 pawls and 3 teethlets to each pawl, there's no way this thing is ever going to slip out on you. It also breaks the bank at $400 US shipped, but that's the price of this sort of performance. Freehub body is aluminum, so once again make sure to grab a wide-base cog.
  
  
• Profile Elite SS: 204 PoE/ 1.75 degrees. Because let's face it, if you're going to go all out, you might as well go all out. $475 shipped.
  
  Keep in mind these prices are all pulled directly from manufacturer's websites or from CRC, and are only for the hub, not including spokes, cog and rim.

Yes. Higher top gears for faster speeds. I definitely shift using the front too, but only once. It was set on the hardest gear, the front that is, and never changed again. For the riding I've been doing, on and off road, I've never needed to adjust the front. Anything less than the hardest gear, is not nearly hard enough to pedal.

 

Cassette vs freewheel. That was valuable information dude! That's the kind of shit I miss easily. Thank you! I'm going to attach an image of my existing cassette/freewheel and perhaps you can tell exactly what it is. I watched a few videos, and all of them require disassembly to tell what kind it is. Both types look very similar.. at least to me they do. Images: https://imgur.com/a/gy81ho7

 

I'm seeing a bunch of tires for sale, but some of them are "foldable" and others aren't. Does that simple mean it isn't a slick? Or I can fold it for packing?

 

I purchased my bike from a couple of scumbags who own a store in Montreal. They definitely took advantage of the fact that I didn't know much about bikes. Ugh.

 

What do you think of this: https://www.probikekit.ca/bicycle-tyres/vittoria-peyote-folding-mtb-tyre/11436100.html It is the best deal I can find right now, half price. Or this: https://www.sportchek.ca/categories/shop-by-sport/cycling/bike-parts/bike-tires-tubes/product/schwalbe-nobby-nic-275-foldable-tire-332007671.html#332007671=332007683 If I look hard enough, seems like I can find a tire under $40CAD, which isn't bad. Just not sure about the quality. I'm not a hardcore biking, but during season, I do bike almost every single day. So..

 

Based on this: https://www.cycosports.be/en/product/thv047036/ I currently have a 7 gear freewheel, which is pretty much what I'm stuck with because of the existing gear shifting system, right? Which I guess kind of makes life easier having less options.

 

When looking at freewheels, is the "teeth" the "gear ratio"? Or are they different? Is this something I need to pay attention to, or will any 7 speed work? Like this, it has a 14-28 teeth: https://www.amazon.ca/Shimano-MF-TZ21-14-28-Teeth-Freewheel/dp/B003EQ71S6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541251634&sr=8-1&keywords=7+speed+freewheel But my existing one has a 13-34 ratio.. what does that mean?

 

As for the inner tube.. do I just get something that matches the tire? Will the specs be as easy as 27.5x2.10? Like this: https://www.canadabicycleparts.com/evo-enduro-1-35-1-45mm-tube-10704

Interesting challenge. If I had to narrow it down to one ride at that price, it’s going to come down to both how it’s set up at purchase, and how potentially upgradeable it is.

That being said, after a bit of shopping, this is my pick, at the moment:
Schwinn Volare 1400 Road Bike, 700c/28 inch wheel size, red, Fitness Bicycle, 53cm/Medium Frame Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5XTB94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CMtXCbVDDFV54

It’s “near” the setup you’d likely eventually want. 2x up front, pretty standard 100/130 spacing for the wheels, brifter-style levers, 1 1/8 threadless forks, comes with “decent for the price” Tourney stuff for both derailleurs and the brake/shifter levers, quick releases. It’s also pretty light, at I think 25 pounds or something. The cheap Schwinns usually use pretty standard sized, and therefore easily upgradable, bottom brackets, things like that.

I’d use the rest of the $300 to replace the freewheel to something like this:
DNP Epoch Freewheel 7spd 11-28 Nickel Plated https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007A8RPUS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4ZtXCbXVFYWQK

That might get you a bit closer to a more fancy road bike’s gearing, with the 11t high gear. Past that, when you had the cash, I’m sure a change of tires, brake pads, a different seat, maybe a cheap replacement free hub wheelset would make quite a difference. Maybe a bigger chain ring. I think those Tourney front derailleurs can handle 50t.

I’m sure most people would say not to upgrade a $266 bike. But all of that doesn’t add up to much more, especially since so many are basically maintenance/wear parts anyway.

I can’t say I wouldn’t pick something else tomorrow. But if I had to put one in the cart right now for that price, that’s the best I can do.

> You need to pinpoint exactly why you're getting flats before trying to throw money at a problem and expect it to be fixed.

I have been getting some flats from "goat heads", but those are the normal slow leakers. The flats I got on the trail Monday were pinch flats. I verified this by looking at the tire and tubes. The tubes had the "snake bites" that tell me it was definitely a pinch flat.

>What tire pressure are you running. Have you checked your rim strips.

I was running 35PSI when I got the first one and was running 25PSI on the second one.

>Have you checked your rim strips. What type of terrain are you riding. How old and what condition are your tires.

I replaced my rim strips when I replaced my tires at the beginning of this season. I replaced them with another set of Specialized Ground Control tires since I'd had no problems with them. So the tires and rim strips were less than six months old.


>For mtb however, the larger cogs were able to be placed practically over the hub flange which means that all freehubs from 9spd and up will work with shimano style cassettes.

This s truly exciting news! I'd much rather do an 11 speed cassette and be able to lose as little gearing as possible. Also I've seen some 11 speed cassettes that go up to 50 tooth, so that might be an option.

>The cheapest 1x setup right now I believe is the M7000 SLX setup for around 200 bucks not including the cranks.

I saw those, but I was thinking about spending more for the XTR derailleur and shifter. I don't know that it will make a huge difference to my shift quality, but I like to go with the best I can afford.

All things said and done, the rear rim will have to be replaced, but I really appreciate your information about the gears, so I don't have to replace the hub (I've never had any issues with it!).

I appreciate your recommendations here. If I can just replace the rims and give the hubs a rebuild at the same time. That would probably be a better investment. It's been a long time since I've built a set of wheels, so I'd probably give them to my LBS to do the work.

I weigh a lot more than you, so I'll look at the Stan's Flow wheels and talk with my bike shop.

Thank you very much for your reply. I know what I posted was barely coherent. Do you have any experience with the Cush Core or similar products?

Good news! I only need one wheel, the rear:
http://i.imgur.com/Wi2krBs.jpg

So I need a cassette and a wheel. Haven't taken the bike out of my car yet or done any clean up, but I'm probably going to pick up a new saddle as well. That or reupholster the one thats there (wouldn't be my first time reupholstering, though in the past the seats were from cars!)

The front wheel is good, the tire is flat. I'll check tomorrow to see if the tube is any good, or if I need to replace it.

As far as the rear wheel, any reason I shouldn't order something like this wheel paired with this freewheel cassette?

Cheap, but seems to have worked out for like trail riding for others (which is about as hardcore as I'll get).

Thanks again for your help so far!

I'm no expert, but a lot of that price will depend on what kind of cog set and chain you're getting!

You need to make sure it's the right kind/size of chain for the job (OCB can help with that too as they offer them for sale), but chains for not-super-fancy-racing-bikes range from $12-$50 retail (usually around the lower end of that range, say $15-25 being fairly typical).
What set of cogs you get will depend as well on what quality and range of gears you want and what's compatible. For my old bike's freewheel (freewheels are cogs that come as one complete piece vs modern cogs stacked on a cassette - freewheels are generally only seen on old 70's and 80's era bikes), I paid a little under $20 but if you're getting a high end cassette, you can easily spend $100. More basic ones run say $25-$60 on average (ala https://www.mec.ca/en/products/cycling/bike-components/drive-train/cassettes-and-freewheels/c/828).
Shop time at OCB is $20/hr. If it's your first time doing it and you need a lot of help, you're probably looking at an hour (if experienced should be more like 15-20 mins, though maybe longer if you're changing things vs straight replacing things and need to tweak your shifting to match). So $20 plus let's say you snag a $15 chain plus $30 cassette (cogs) after tax then you're looking around $65-ish at OCB? So say $45-70 depending on what you want/need/how long it takes you but something in that ballpark for non-fancy things. So $80 to get a shop to do it sounds fair if they're including parts.

First off: watch out with "26 inch" wheels. There are no fewer than 5 different, incompatible "26 inch" sizes which you are likely to encounter!.

Since 26 x 1-3/8 wheels are not used on modern bikes, your options are going to be a bit limited. You definitely want an aluminum alloy wheel (instead of steel). Here is one in the right size and material, that accepts a thread-on freewheel. It is a bolt-on wheel, however (not quick-release compatible). The seller does not indicate what the axle length is, but I think only one axle length was common for 26x1-3/8 wheels. Good luck!

Really hard to help you on the gearing situation without pictures. What kind of shifters does it have? Is the rear shifter indexed?

You may be able to just buy a new 6-speed thread-on freewheel, if the shifter is not indexed (or is indexed for 6 speeds). They are not expensive, and can be installed without a tool. You'll need to replace the chain too, btw (the chain and rear gears wear together). I would prefer this option, if at all possible.

If you simply must keep the old freewheel with bizarro gears, you'll have to figure out which of the various freewheel removal tools it takes. You'll also need something to apply serious leverage to the tool, as freewheels are tightened by the force of pedaling. A bench vise is best. Plenty of youtube videos demonstrating the removal technique.

I built up a Disc Trucker last spring. I stuck closely to Surly's build in the gearing department as it mainly is a touring bike. I went 9-speed because the chains are a touch more durable and when you get into 10-speed, Shimano's road and mountain offerings start having some incompatibilities. With a 9-speed drivetrain, you can mix and match road and mountain to whatever extent you like.

I actually have two different gearing setups. One for true touring with a mountain rear derailleur and an 11-34 cassette and another with a road rear derailleur and a 12-26 cassette.

Here's relevant parts off my list:

|Part|Model|Other|Notes|
|:---|:---|:---|:---|
|Crankset|Shimano Deore M590|175mm arm length|Has the trekking gearing 26/36/48 and Hollowtech because why not.|
|Rear cassette|SRAM PG-950|11-34 for touring, 12-26 for commuting|Yes, as far as casettes go, it's a heavy bugger. But when we're talking about LHTs, who really cares overly much about weight? As a side note, you'd need a mountain derailleur to use the 11-34, but you'd be just fine with the 12-26 for your 105.|
|Shifters|Shimano Dura-Ace 9-speed bar-end||If you're using this for touring, I'd recommend the bar ends. Otherwise, get whatever brifters you like, use a couple of Travel Agents and get some V-brakes.|
|Brake levers|Tektro RL520|Long-pull|Those guys are long pull, so they work with V-brakes and mountain-pull disc brakes. Ergonomics are decent, if a tad too pointy for my tastes.|
|Handlebars|Salsa Bell Lap||No longer being produced, sadly.|
|Saddle|Brooks Champion Flyer||I've put thousands and thousands of miles on this saddle. Love it. It's a little heavy if you're doing light commuting. For daily commuting and touring, though, it's hard to beat.|
|Pedals|Shimano M520||They're pretty low on the totem pole as far as component level, but I've had nary a problem with multiple sets. Clipless that won't break the bank.|
|Chain|SRAM PC-951||It's a cheaper chain more than adequate for commuting and touring.|

All the drivetrain stuff is 9-speed, but you can find the 10-speed equivalents rather easily. In your case, if you're not setting off across the country or across the world on your LHT, I'd say go for a set of brifters. If you want to go 9-speed, I'd look for an older set of Ultegra shifters. For 10-speed, I'd keep it 105 or above...or Rival or above for SRAM. SRAM has a lot more tactile feedback on the shifts while Shimano tends to be smoother. I prefer SRAM, but to each their own. Bar-ends are great and low maintenance, but not being able to shift from the hoods can get a little annoying after a while.

As to online retailers, a lot of parts can be had reasonably from Amazon. I also use Jenson USA. They ship fast, have free shipping on orders above $50, and price match on parts. I use Nashbar occasionally, but their shipping department is woefully slow and I avoid buying from them whenever possible.

I don't have answers to all of your questions, but I recently put on the BBS02, and it is great. I think you will be happy with a Nuvinci, from what I've read. I put on a different cassette on the back wheel and I easily go 25mph. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007A8RPUS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can go up hills without pedaling, probably 12 to 14 mph.

I can get 20 miles on 6.5 Ah. (was 10 Ah 3 years ago) I have a Ping battery and plan on upgrading to 15 Ah. This should easily give me a 40 mile range. I use my battery on the rear tire.

http://www.pingbattery.com/

Thank you for your reply.

I don't need "brifters" in fact, she would like to keep this bike near to like it is, if possible.

The downtube shifters are what we would like if we can keep them.

I can fine wheelsets on Amazon for $100 or so that accommodate Shimano 8,9, 10 or 11 (I think).

Can I get those and still get a cassette with 5 speeds?

I was told this is a 10 speed bike. There are 5 gears on the back and 2 gear/cogs on the front.

How do I purchase the cassette? Will this one do?

http://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-5-Speed-Freewheel-14-28T-Silver/dp/B004XVOHY2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420328330&sr=8-1&keywords=sunrace+5+speed+cassette

How should I search for the correct deraileur on Amazon?

Same with searching for brake replacements, what should I search for?

What is the "bottom Bracket"

The crankset seems fine.

The frame is straight with no rust other than slight surface rust.

Thank you for all your help.

It depends on how much you want to spend. (This, again, is why I suggested stopping now, and starting with a better / lighter / more compatible bike.)

Basically, you're at 24lbs for those parts, without tires, tubes, grips, brakes, brake levers, seat, pedals, chain, stem, headset, etc.,which means the bike is likely going to be over 30lbs once completed.

Assuming you're not going to listen to me (bikes do that to people), and you want to go ahead and build it up as a modern geared bike, here's what I'd do if I were in your shoes.

Get the Dimension Value Series 27" freewheel rear wheel for <$40, and the front wheel for about $30. Together, they'll weigh 2270g, which is 5lbs even. Add another pound or so for the freewheel and you should come to around 6lbs. (I'm not sure the math here is working well, as it should end up being substantially lighter than your existing wheelset.)

Also note that in addition to a modern 3 piece double crank, you're going to need a 1 piece to 3 piece crank adapter, which will allow you to use a modern sealed bottom bracket and a standard crank. (You're probably going to want to use a square taper crank / bottom bracket to make things easy.)

You may also consider building it up as a single speed, as that way you could thread a single BMX freewheel on the back instead of a multi-speed freewheel, could use a cheap track crank, and wouldn't have to worry about sorting out the shifters / derailleurs.

Good luck!

>When I took it in for servicing they slapped a new chain on it, that was just last week so I'd assume that's good.

Absolutely. In fact, that fits with my freewheel theory: chains and the gears wear out together, especially as the chain gets more worn. A new chain and worn cassette can result in the skipping you described. Some bike shops insist on changing both at the same time, just in case.

> I've done chain replacements before so I know how to do that too. What information do I need to make sure I get a cassette/freewheel part that fits my bike?

If the freewheel is original, I bet it's this one. Any 7 speed freewheel will work, but it's easiest if you match the model with what you have so the great ratios are the same, you only need one tool, and the chain can stay the same length. The model should be printed on it somewhere.

Before you spend money on a cassette, it's worth making sure it's not a gear indexing issue either. That's free, just a quick twist of the inline adjuster.

Needs to be stripped down and de-scaled/de-rusted as much as possible. Chain removed and probably dropped in bin.
Fine grade steel wool or scotch-brite pads and kerosene can do a lot, and soaking components in Apple Cider vinegar works nicely as well, unless you have access to an Ultrasonic cleaner which is a better option. If you're going to stick with the original wheels, which look like 27s (630mm) then you're stuck with threaded freewheels. The Shimano 7sp HG freewheel is as far as you'll be able to go without either lacing a new hub into the rear wheel or buying a new wheelset in 700c. I'd refurbish the BB and Headset with new bearings, fit cables all over, throw a new freewheel on there and some Tektro r559 nutted mount brake calipers on there, some new Panaracer Pasela 27" tyres on there, job done. Oh, and lose the quill stem extender.

I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.

FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6

UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR

Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ

KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M

Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI

Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI

Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS

XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW

​

Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette

SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/

JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DU7c0_G29MA

basically the hub is like one of these.

then i screw a free wheel on to that, that has an open end like this as opposed to this. I then get an old school metal bottom bracket cup which has the same threads as the free wheel. I screw that into the freewheel and then the next free wheel on to that extension piece (the bb cup).

Haha, yeah I took the advice on replacing the freewheel seriously just in case.

Thanks for the knowledge. I haven't considered this replacement up to now. I might give it a shot to keep the bike crisp and functional as well as getting my mechanic skills up with the experience.

Here is a follow up question, would a 7 speed like this fit or would the extra gear take up too much space?

The key compatibility items:

• Rim diameter: 700c (ERTRO 622mm)
  
• Rim width: At least 23mm or so. You can just match the front rim.
  
• Hub spacing: Probably 135mm but you can measure. See this picture.
  
• Hub compatibility: Thread-on freewheel is easiest. See this picture for the difference between a cassette and a freewheel.
  
• Freewheel: I think you can go up to about 28t or so. This freewheel would work but you might find a wheel with the freewheel installed.
  
  Edit: Check the specifics (especially the rear spacing) but this wheel might be what you need.
  
  If you get that wheel you will still need the freewheel, which should spin right on, as well as a tire (you have the specs), a tube, and don't forget the rim strip.

I have a cheap single speed commuter bike, not too different from that one. The generic freewheel it came with was all sorts of awful. Lots of ticking/clicking and really nasty feeling bearings. Not sure if yours is the same. I swapped it for a Shimano one which made a huge difference. You need a special tool to get the old one off or you can take it to a shop for a really quick swap.

Chain tensioners are also really nice to have to dial in your chain tension. Not necessary at all but nice for the peace of mind. Something like these.

Hey just getting back into biking after maybe 4 years of not touching it. I would like to get a flipflop hub so i can coast and also a rear and front brake. I have none of that equipment to do so. I also want to re-tape the bars too. What should I get? How do I order the brake set? What do you recommend? Someone said tektro but I was having a hard time finding out which ones i should get and what other things I needed to get for them. Here is my bike:

https://www.cyclesmithy.com/products/2018-fuji-track

https://imgur.com/a/zsah4JE

Edit: Like would I buy this to make it free wheel? https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tooth-Single-Freewheel-32-Inch/dp/B0011YEAZ0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=flip%2Bflop%2Bhub&qid=1562768778&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1

If you have horizontal dropouts, it's actually pretty easy. Basically the issue is taking up slack in the chain. There exists some products you can use if you have standard dropouts. An eccentric bottom bracket would be your best bet. Problem Solvers makes a chain tensioner you can put on your dérailleur hanger if you can't do the eccentric be.

Eccentric bottom bracket - this one is for bb30, I think you can get one for square taper style, too.. Phil wood makes one. Ask your lbs.

Chain Tensioner

You need to replace the cassette with a single sprocket.

You'd need to remove your derailleurs.

You would need to either replace your crank to a suitable one, or you can just take off all but one of the chain rings without too much issue.

Remember to support your local bike shop. They can get set up single speed much easier than on your own.

edit: yeah, i read it wrong. yeah it's not easy.

Thanks to your comment, at first I disregarded it as a no-way. But I looked at a variety of videos about cold setting the rear portion of steel bicycle frames. Including SB's article on frame spacing. I also looked at forum posts and it sounds like this is not an unusual operation to perform on steel frames you want to update to use newer wheels.

It does look like people are successful cold setting in the range I'm needing.

And frankly, it would be much easier to have the ability to adjust the chainline using spacers and a cog. So I am tempted to try this using a set like this.

I also called a LBS and asked if they do frame shaping like this, and the gentlemen said they could do it but suggested I consider trying it myself.

If I do not pick out a new wheel, as others have suggested and I do try reshaping the frame, one concern I have is that the frame has what appears to be a mount point that might not agree with stretching very well: https://imgur.com/a/T4iAg

I don't know enough about frames to understand if this is important structurally or provided as a simple mount. If it isn't important to securing the frame, I wonder if this is something that would need to be cut before attempting the cold-set.

Another issue is the dropout alignment after coldsetting the width larger. This frame has sort of long, flat dropouts and I think I'd need to get the dropout into a vice to bend the dropouts back after increasing the width. The videos I've seen have shown dropout alignment correction on small, easily moldable dropouts which are not like the ones I'm working with on this frame: https://i.imgur.com/m76m6Q5.jpg

One piece cranks are pretty easy to work on so they are a good intro to working on bikes. The only tool you need is a big adjustable wrench and some grease to get them up and running.

Six speed is the correct terminology. Bike speeds are typically expressed in one of two ways, the amount of rear cogs multipled by the number of front chain rings (7 in the rear 3) or by the amount of rear cogs.

If you decide to replace the chain, freewheel (rear cog set) and chain ring you will need the following, chain, freewheel, and example chain ring The chain ring you get needs to say that it works with chains that are 1/2 x 3/32. If you want to be anal about this, you can count how many teeth are on the small cog and big cog of your old freewheel and get a new one that matchs that range along with getting a chain wheel that has the same amount of teeth as your old one. This is likely to preserve your old gearing. This is not a huge deal for casual use, though it's something to keep in mind.

You will need a freewheel remover tool to get your old freewheel off. There are about ten different ones, so I would suggest going to bike shop and having them remove it, or have them tell you which tool you need. You don't need a tool to install a new freewheel.

Also, to install the new chain you will need a chain breaker.

However, I still doubt you need to replace all that crap. I'd start by fixing the bottom bracket, then seeing if that solves the crunching and chain jumping problem.

The gears on the back wheel are the cassette (the gears in the front are the chain rings).

A cassette with a wide range of gears has a very small gear (fast but harder to turn) and a very big gear (slow but easy to get up hills). In 9 speed cassettes, a wide range would be 11 teeth through 36 teeth. For example, this one.

If you're struggling with hills, a cassette with a larger gear will make it easier to make it up the hills. Road bikes usually have a smaller range of gears vs. hybrids or mountain bikes ... so to answer your question, no, a road bike probably won't help with getting over hills more easily. Also, a new cassette, at about $25, is easier on your budget. It will require some specialty tools to install so it might make sense to have your local bike shop install it for you (probably another $25).

OK this is slightly confused. How many cogs are on your freewheel cluster?
I'm guessing 5, making your bike a 10 speed using the two chainrings at the front (2x5). This freewheel would usually be replaced with a similar cluster (5 cog) although you could go 6 without too many issues, like this Shimano unit although best to check if your rear derailleur can handle 28t.

i think this would not need a new derailleur, although you may need a new chain (and it's a good idea to change chain and freewheel together anyway).

changing a freewheel is a little tricky - look for videos on youtube (search for something like "change freewheel without chainwhip"). fit the new chain to the right length (don't just copy the old length - see here).

there's not much difference in feel between a larger rear sprocket and a smaller front one if the ratio is the same. it does feel slightly different (i am not sure why, but one or the other feels slightly smoother, i think just from the different vibrations you get as the chain moves over the different size gears). but in general you can trust the maths.

[edit: deleted a second option, as it was a cassette, not a freewheel]

I believe it! My bike is from the mid-1990s. I'm not even sure the one I found will work: http://www.amazon.com/DNP-Epoch-Freewheel-Nickel-Plated/dp/B007A8RPUS It says "HG Shimano, index compatible" which sounds right. (HG being 'Hyperglide' which was new at the time.)

Fortunately a friend at work is really into cycling and is helping me. I didn't buy this bike used, I've just had it that long. :)

Model number super duper won't matter. but an 11-34 9 speed hyperglide cassette would be what you're looking for.

typing those words into amazon reveals...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LAPEX9I?keywords=11-34%209%20speed%20cassette&qid=1452415502&ref_=sr_1_2&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-2

which is the stupid place to buy bike parts, if you like saving money. A bike shop could make you that deal. that's 3 dollars off.


On the other hand, at about 19 dollars off...

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/shimano-alivio-hg400-9-speed-mtb-cassette/rp-prod119945

Oh look, the biggest online bike retailer in Britain. They have shockingly low shipping rates to the US.

I generally spend over $100 dollars there, because then the shipping usually jumps from very little, to totally free.

i had a road bike for 5 years, i still do but its in the garage last 4 weeks, because i bought fixed gear and i ride it everyday. dont have a car or brakes on my bike, and i love it. no freewheel, one less bearing. or you can buy this thing from amazon https://www.amazon.com/Cyclingdeal-Conversion-Shimano-Adaptor-CyclingDeal/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1EC3K206TG2I7&keywords=single+speed+conversion+kit+bike&qid=1563848343&s=gateway&sprefix=single+speed+conv%2Caps%2C160&sr=8-2 and take your front derailleur and one of chain rings off

I'm actually doing the same thing. I just built a new road bike and have some parts left so I will be building a budget single speed. I have a carbon frame, mavic wheels with 8,9,10 gear hub (will add this http://amzn.to/1M078HZ). I will also be getting this crankset http://amzn.to/1UCmyp1, this cheap brake setup http://amzn.to/1MSSi0I, some chain and a shorter stem since the frame is pretty large. Most likely will paint everything black with a gold chain. Will be super light since the frameset is carbon.

Ya you either need a new 700c rear wheel or to lace a new rim to the current hub. . Not sure if your bike has a cassette or a freewheel. It says 6 speed gearing so my money is on a 6 speed freewheel. If that’s the case you need a wheel set up for a freewheel and also a freewheel remover if you are gonna do it yourself.

I’m gonna throw an upgrade at you to consider.

29er wheelset (same size as 700c but called 29er because it’s a mountain bike rim.)

Mountain bike wheels are a little beefier and will take more punishment. This one is cheap and comes with tires already.

Mavic Rim 29er Mountain Bike Wheels with Disc Brake Shimano Hubs PLUS Free Continental 29x2.2" Race King Tires and Tubes! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDTR27Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SlF9AbR7A1F1B

9 speed cassette
Shimano HG400 9 Speed Mountain Bike Cassette - CS-HG400-9 (11-36) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073CFBPF9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_boF9Ab48BVPKH

SRAM X.5 Rear Trigger Shifter for 9 Speed Drivetrains, Black, 9 Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063HG45Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bpF9AbA9TRZ94

SRAM X5 Medium Cage Silver 9 Speed Rear Derailleur https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00554231U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QqF9AbC18FV41

KMC KMC023 X9.93 Bicycle Chain (9-Speed, 1/2 x 11/128-Inch, 116L, Silver/Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYJF2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lrF9AbDFWEG5T

So basically $280 would get you new wheels that are tougher and come with bigger cushier tires, and allow you to upgrade to disc brakes in the future. Also we’re scraping the terrible 6 speed freewheel and upgrading to a 9 speed cassette. It will shift better, give you better low end torque and high end speed. The wheel set also allows you to upgrade to 10, 11 or even 12 speed but 9 should be sufficient.

Upgrading it will be quite expensive. However, it'll provide you with a wealth of knowledge, frustration and, at the same time, fun.

Depending on your existing hub, you may or may not need a new hub to put your new cassette on.

With a wide enough range of gears on your rear cassette you can get away with a single chainring, so there will be no need for a new crankset/front derailleur/front shift lever.

As /u/fclbr said, you can choose downtube shifters in order to keep your existing brake levers. There are also bar-end shifters, and if you go for a single chainring, it won't be that expensive.

All-in-all, consider if this bike's right for you, size and geometry-wise, as your decision may be a bit rash. If it is, then I'd say go for it.

Rear derailleur - $20

Cassette - $20 - I recommend going for the 34t max sprocket. It'll allow you to stick with a single chainring

Bar-end shifters - $55 - they are 9-sp indexed, but they also work in friction mode, which allows you to freely adjust your gear

Downtube shifters - $14

Cables/outer cables are negligible costs.

I found infos about an older version of that Bike:

• Freewheel: Shimano MF-TZ21, compliments the all Shimano drivetrain (replacement part)
  
• Tires: KENDA, multi-surfaced 700X40 tires for riding on path or paved surfaces
  
  Question: Do I need to go with a original Shimano Freewheel?
  Apart from getting a quote from a shop my plan of action is:
  
  

1. measuring the hub spacing
   
2. checking the Rim width of the front rim
   
3. looking for a wheel with matching rim width, hub spacing and rim diameter (700c)
   
4. looking for tube and tire for that wheel

Think this guy will work? I hope so because that’s what I ordered...
Sunlite Easy Off Single Freewheel, 18T x 3/32" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003L9CASC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_UutOBbVJGGYA3

Well, with those parameters, I'd consider building a single speed for your first build. Buy a freewheel, but use a salvaged crank, bb, chainring, handlebars, frame and whatever brake style the frame you're using is set up for: cantilever, caliper, v.

Here's an inexpensive 1/8" freewheel; that thicker size will mean that you'll use bmx-sized chains and chainring, rather than a thinner 9 or 10 speed chain. http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SF-1200-Single-Speed-Freewheel/dp/B001GSSIIG/

That's way easier than messing with deraillers and cogsets on your first build. And when you're done, you don't have a fixie, but a bike with brakes.

Your freewheel is broken, you need a new one like: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-7Spd-14-28T-Freewheel/dp/B003B8JYPU/

If you want to do the repair yourself you're going to also need a freewheel tool like: https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Freewheel-Remover-Freewheels/dp/B001B6RGXG

And some grease when you thread the new one onto the wheel.

Here's a good guide on how to do that: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/freewheel-removal-and-installation

I don't know why you'd worry about replacing it as the exact part unless its a collector. From what I'm seeing it seems like its unlikely. Freewheels are a consumable part that are going to need replacing over time, only the most anal collectors care about them matching exactly.

For an easy swap, just replace it with a 6spd freewheel. Any shop that thinks that part is hard to find wouldn't have my business for long. It's a direct swap with maybe a little adjustment of the limit screws. The old 600 Arabesque derailleur should handle 28t fine.

It's a great bike for the price. For what it's worth, I've done plenty of loaded touring in mountains with similar gear ratios (compact crank with 11-28t cassette). Others will say your lowest gear ratio (1.2) isn't low enough for mountainous touring. Depends on your strength and how much you're carrying.

To get it lower, you can buy an 11-34t cassette which will bring you down to a 1.0 ratio.

However, I'm not sure the derailleur it comes with will fit an 11-34t cassette. If it doesn't, you'll need a mountain bike rear derailleur like this.

In short, you're looking at $30 or $70 to upgrade to a traditional low touring gear ratio, not including labor.

So now I feel like a jerk because I know they USED to, but I can't find it. Maybe they stopped making it. Whatever.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_guEJBb3S7NVTP

This should work for you; or something similar. I like it because you can align your sprocket and chainring so there's no rub or noise from lateral play. Will take some finesse to get completely silent.

I'm not a mechanic, but you probably just need a new freewheel
https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Single-Bicycle-Freewheel-Sprocket/dp/B001GSSIIG

And a tool to take the old one off and put the new one on
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Freewheel-Remover-Bikes/dp/B000AO9S68

it sounds like the pawls aren't engaging properly, probably rusty and/or gunky inside the freewheel.

I'm learning a lot thanks. Yeah I don't think .3mm will lead to major problems one way or another and I don't think the chain will randomly snag then jump even if the chain isn't lined up because of the larger chainrings being on the outside, meaning the chain would at worst be angled across and above the smaller chainrings of the crankset as the chain runs toward the singlespeed freewheel.

Thanks for the size of the 7 speed chain. I was able to search 3/32" singlespeed freewheel and found this item on amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Easy-Off-Single-Freewheel/dp/B003L9CASC/ref=sr_1_cc_5?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1468904959&sr=1-5-catcorr&keywords=single+speed+freewheel+3%2F32

Do you more or less suspect it will be compatible with this crankset? https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Acera-28-38-48t-Square-without/dp/B002P71OC4/ref=sr_1_8?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1468828113&sr=1-8&keywords=48t+chain+wheel#Ask

You've helped so much. Here is a picture of my bike so far. Just waiting on loads of other parts to arrive. https://postimg.org/image/todz6lobn/

Thanks,
Al

Here's a wheel. It has a quick release axle, but will work well.

You could either buy this tool to remove the freewheel (gears) and switch them to the new wheel or you could buy a new freewheel set.

I'm assuming you removed a threaded on 5-cog freewheel from the rear wheel and then threaded on a single cog freewheel. I am assuming you did not remove a cassette and place a single cog and a stack of spacers on a freehub for this conversion. Is that correct?

- Yes and I replaced it with a Shimano single speed thread on freewheel: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tooth-Single-Freewheel-32-Inch/dp/B0011YEAZ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542405280&sr=8-1&keywords=shimano+single+speed+freewheel

I haven't put on axle nuts yet, I am thinking about going that route with a new solid spindle

Thanks for the info, so should I stay with the freewheel or switch to cassette since I am replacing both parts, cassette seems cheaper but I am not sure if it will work?

Am I on the right track with these setups below?


Freewheel:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-HG37-Tourney-Freewheel-13-28T/dp/B001IORDH0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427163&sr=8-3&keywords=shimano+freewheel
http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silver-Freewheel-Release-26X1-5-Inch/dp/B004YJ2O48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427274&sr=8-1&keywords=26+inch+bike+rim+rear

Cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Nutted-Cruiser-Freewheel-1-75-Inch/dp/B003RLL5VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427463&sr=8-2&keywords=26+inch+bike+rim+rear+cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CS-HG20-7-Speed-Cassette-12-28T/dp/B003ZM9QQY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427489&sr=8-4&keywords=shimano+7+speed+cassette

Check out my post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/chpp6t/first_build_first_ride_tsdz2/

Smooth shifting with new:

SHIMANO MF-TZ21 14-28 Teeth 7 Speed Freewheel

KMC X8.99 Bicycle Chain (1/2 x 3/32-Inch, 116L, Silver)

Getting over 60+ miles using gears first, 75% tour mode, 25% Speed/Turbo mode.

​

Kickstand: FORTOP Bike Support Bicycle Kickstand Adjustable Aluminum Alloy for 22" 24" 26" 28" Mountain Bike/Road Bicycle/BMX/MTB/City Commuter Bike/Kids Bike/Sports Bike/Adult Bike/700 Road Bike

That appears to be a freewheel-only threaded side of your hub.

To install all you need is a freewheel.

Now would be a good time to think long and hard about your (drivetrain) ratio, as freewheels are more expensive than cogs and come in a narrower range of teeth.

I know if you order the Sunrace cassette off Amazon it comes with a generic "Road Link" a dohicky that will make sure your RD will work with the cassette.

https://www.amazon.com/Sunrace-cassette-9-speed-provided-JGbike/dp/B01MRLWHEO

This might work for you. Its smallest gear is 13t but does have a 28 T gear. They make a 14-34T as well.
Shimano Tourney 7-Speed Freewheel

As far as I know you can do this 2 ways: get a new rear hub which is a single speed or a flip flop hub which has one side for single gear use and one side for fixed gear use, or you can one of those single gear cogs that you mount on to an existing cassette hub it's a converter sort of thing.

Now, there's no need to get a completely new rear wheel, but if you're re-using the rim, you'll have to take it apart to mount a new hub. It's simpler to just get a rim with a single gear hub already installed. Or get the previously mentioned adapter for your cassette.

Overall, I would say it's easier (not cheaper) to get a wheel that's made for single speed use. Also, keep in mind the spacing of your rear-drop outs as different speeds often have different sizes of dropout.

If the bike you have fits you and hasn't been terribly abused it might be worth just keeping it. 550 is going to buy another entry level-ish bike. $200 in tools and parts can fix most issues, and you can keep up on your own maintenance from then on.

A 9 speed chain and chain tool. 30 bucks

[Brake and Shifter Cables and housing ]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXV23A7/) and cable cutter $50

9 speed cassette HG400 and Lockring tool $35

Cone Wrenches 13/14 13/15 15/16 17/18 $20 for repacking hub grease $11

allen wrenches $11

None of this is very difficult to do if you watch a youtube or 2. The hardest part is getting the derailleurs working again, and that isn't really that bad.

The cheap wal mart bikes can be okay as long as you aren't looking to ride offroad, and replace the shifters/rear mechanicals with proper parts.

That doesn't meant spending a ton of money, the older 7 speed shimano freewheels can be found on Amazon for $15 or so, and so can the derailleurs.

The problem with the freewheels on the walmart bikes is you often see they'll be "slick shift by DNP" freewheels which have a reputation for lasting for about 50 miles then dying. I think I've read they're also made from old shimano tooling, which is worn out so they never shift right no matter how much you adjust them.

To be honest, I'm not really sure what a chain tensioner is. I just know the guy in the video was referring to one.

The conversion kit I saw was this: http://www.amazon.com/Conversion-Fixie-Single-Shimano-Adaptor/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405727927&sr=8-1&keywords=flip+flop+hub

...which I'm only now realizing does not convert in the direction that I'm talking about or want.

The frame set is an older Fuji. I tried to track down the year, but couldn't get the model/serial to line up, so I think it's anywhere between mid to late 90s to mid 2000s (it has the older logo).

It has the fork, and I THINK a headset... though I'm not sure. Is that what goes on top of the handlebars, or under them?

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-7-Speed-Tourney-Freewheel-Replacement/dp/B003B8JYPU?psc=1

it uses this in the rear so i guess its a freewheel?

largest I could find on ebay NOS. By no means affordable.

If the shifting is friction (i. e. doesn't click for each cog), you can replace the rear wheel with anything 6 or 7 speeds, check out craigslist and you can probably get a decent old wheel with freewheel for about 20~30 usd.

Upon further reading it seems that freewheels have a standard ISO threading, therefore, again, if you're ok with friction shifting, you can use any old freewheel, even a new one. Not completely sure about the spacing and/or overall width though, so, give it a try.

You could get a freewheel like this [Shimano MF-TZ31 Tourney Freewheel (14-34T Mega 7 Speed)] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003RLNOKC). There's usually a big step between gears 1 and 2, but singular to what you have now. Why bigger is usually on 10+ speed bikes which isn't worth the upgrade in your case.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001IORDH0?pc_redir=1411016731&robot_redir=1

If the chain was slipping, the derailleur probably needed an adjustment. The freewheel does not look worn to me

Here is an 11-28. You won't be able to find anything much fancier without lookin at NOS parts.

If you want the HG50, it'll probably be a little lighter and perhaps shift slightly smoother.

I have this on my commuter and it's solid. http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-TZ20-14-28-Teeth-Freewheel/dp/B003EQ71QI

Take the back wheel off and spin the freewheel (the group of cogs) if they feel gritty are hard to spin, you can replace them...they should still click when they spin and lock with the wheel when spun in on direction, but if they dont feel particularly smooth, abouth $25 will get you the freewheel and the tool to replace it.

https://www.amazon.ca/Shimano-MF-TZ21-14-28-Teeth-Freewheel/dp/B003EQ71S6/
Lots of under $25 options.

I'm thinking this is the part I need to replace. This is what's kind of wobbly: http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SF-1200-Single-Speed-Freewheel/dp/B001GSSIIG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=8GBDM6T90RO6&coliid=I3LLVFXCWL2V5T

6 speed cassette

I have a hybrid bike with the exact same 7 speed freewheel and chainring, last week the freewheel went bad so I got this one the bike had the same tires as your's and I went with 700 x 30 tires and the bike is a bit faster but not as good as a road bike. Why not buy a used road bike as it's going to be far lighter than the wife's bike.

As everyone already said, you need a new freewheel.

I cant tell if thats a 6 or 7 speed freewheel, but here is the 6 speed and
here is the 7 speed part you want.

and you need this to get it off.

There are a million freewheel replacement videos on youtube that you can watch to see how its done. Once you get the old one off ( and it will be a bitch to get off... most freewheels are) popping on the new one is stupid easy.

I guess that would work, but the only problem is eventually you'll be running a nasty chainline. I only paid $15 for the cog and spacers plus I have some replacement cogs (from old cassettes) for when stuff wears out. Otherwise I'll happily pay the $15 again.

Here's: the cog/spacer kit I got: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006WRW45O/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_gEjTj3QBqwcC3