Reddit mentions: The best bike chains

OK, so you've got a Shimano TX71 crank up front. That's pretty low-end, and I don't think the rings are replaceable, so if they're worn out you'll need a new crankset.

The rear set of gears is called a "cassette" (in your case, older bikes had freewheels). It's a 7 speed Sun Race 11-32.

The chain is chain...no big deal on that as long as it matches your cassette. 7 speed chain should be used with 7 speed cassettes. 8 speed chain is the exact same as 7. 7/8 are the same width, etc. 9 speed chain is narrower, weaker, and wears out faster, and it costs more than 7/8. 10 speed chain is again narrower, weaker, etc. And again for 11. Anything above 8 speeds is silly, especially on anything other than actual racing bikes. It's just more money and trouble, so please don't buy in to the marketing gimmick of 10/11 speed "upgrades", I promise you they won't actually make your ride better.

My opinion said, let's move on to replacing these worn out parts.

Let's start with the crank. You'll need some specialized tools to work on this, but they're not too expensive and a worthwhile investment. You'll need a square-taper crank puller, such as the Park CCP-22. That's needed to remove the cranks.

Next you'll need a tool to remove the bottom bracket (the bearings/spindle bit the cranks attach to. Yours is probably pretty worn out. The thing with BBs is they come in many lengths, such as 122mm, 118mm, etc. The length is determined by the crankset you use, not by your frame, so if you replace your crankset, chances are you'll need a different BB length. Also, many newer cranksets have built-in BBs, since, like I said, BB and cranks are pretty tied together. You'll need to get your old BB out, and you'll need a BB tool for that. Chances are your BB would be one compatible with the Shimano 20 tooth 'Isis' style: BBT-22. You can tell if this is the case by looking at your bike. Behind the crank you'll see a the outside edge of the bottom bracket, if it's got a bunch of small indentations like this, then it's an Isis style one.

Now you'll have the old crank and BB removed. Next you'll need to get a replacement. I'm not sure your budget, so I'll just go with some 'middle of the road' recommendations. This is what I have one some of my bikes: Race Face 22-32-44 Crankset and BB. This is a pretty good deal, since it's a fairly nice crankset AND it comes with its own BB, so you don't have to get that separate. The BB included is an outboard bearing style, which will be a bit different looking than your old one, and require another tool, as it's not compatible with the BBT-22. It requires an outboard bearing wrench like the BBT-29. Even after purchasing this extra tool, the Race Face crankset is an exceptional deal.

Alternatively, you can source out a square-taper style crankset replacement (like your old one), and if you luck out, your old BB will be in ok enough shape and be the right length. Chances are that's not the case, and you'll need to replace the BB too, and end up spending just as much as that RaceFace. The one minor issue with the Race Face one is it's slightly smaller than your stock one, and I don't know if your T30 is one of the ones with a cover over the chain, and if so, there may be a slight gap if you used a slightly smaller crank. If you don't have a chain cover, this wouldn't be an issue, and going from 48 to 44 would probably be an improvement, unless you often ride really really fast.

Next you'll need a rear cassette. Your stock cassette was an '11-32'. This means your smallest sprocket was 11 teeth and largest was 32. When combined with a 22/32/44 crankset, a cassette with 32t as the largest gear is a real 'stump puller'. The 22:32 ratio is probably MUCH lower than you'll ever use, unless you routinely climb mountains on your bike. I'd recommend something a bit 'tighter' such as 11-23 or 11-25. Unless you're REALLY fast and routinely in your largest gear in the front and smallest in the rear, going over 25MPH, I'd also suggest not getting a cassette with an 11t small gear. I'm pretty fit and very very rarely 'spin out' my fastest gear, which is 44:12 for me. 44:11 is a good bit faster a gear, but I'd guess you don't actually need that sort of gear. The choice is up to you, but I recommend these cassettes: 11-24 or 12-24 and 11-28 or 12-28. Dropping the range down from 11-32 to 12-24 means you'll shift your front gears a bit more often, and in return, you'll have a better spread of gearing options, with more usable gears and less duplicate gears. I highly doubt you use more than 44:12 and less than 22:24 ratios as it is, as those are pretty damn fast and pretty damn low gears.

You'll need a cassette tool to remove your old cassette and install the new one. FR-5 Cassette Tool, and you'll also need a chain whip: SR-1 Chain Whip.

As for the chain, any 7 or 8 speed chain will work. I recommend this one: KMC 72. Shimano chains are GARBAGE and wear out way faster than other brands. SRAM chains are ok. Wipperman are good and KMC is good.

All of these tools have videos on their use on Park's website, and are available on Amazon for reasonable prices. If you want to save a few bucks, there's some non-Park versions of said tools for cheaper. I have a Topeak brand chain whip, for instance, and it's every bit as good as Park's.

Let me know if you have any other questions. Hopefully this long post helps.

Alright, so I have a few questions, mostly about gear replacement for a new bike of mine (aesthetic mostly), painting it, and getting some new pedals on it. My bike is a Fuji Track 2016 (brand new but I can tell I'll really like biking) and it's a fixed gear. My daily ride would be mostly flat but I would love to go biking on the weekends on hilly areas. So I begin.

Firstly the pedals. Are the crank brothers doubleshots good? They look longer than some of their others and they're clip pedals so I mean I'm curious, but amazon yields few results.

Can I pretty much get whatever cycling shoes? I'm looking at EU size 43.5 (since I'm 9.5ft US to 10FT US) in yellow, of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Giro-Trans-Shoes-Matte-White/dp/B00NDIF5MO/ref=sr_1_6?s=apparel&ie=UTF8&qid=1480396956&sr=1-6&nodeID=679272011&keywords=bike%2Bcleats&refinements=p_n_size_browse-vebin%3A1285069011&th=1&psc=1
Anyone know if these are any good? Any reccomendations on yellow shoes? I'd like bright reflective ones for nighttime riding.

I'd like to paint my bike blue-yellow as well, will spray painting it and clear coating it be good enough? I can always strip it down to the metal, but since it has ED I didnt know if that would reduce durability. Has anyone done this? My dad does have a paint sprayer (I think) so if need be I can even use that.

Lastly, is this crankset and chain combo I have chosen any good?
https://www.amazon.com/Retrospec-Bicycles-Fixed-Gear-Single-Speed-Crankset/dp/B006A9ZIQQ/ref=pd_sbs_468_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=FE6DQ83P5S69X695PVKH&th=1&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Z410-Bicycle-1-Speed-112L/dp/B0017I0DEM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478039074&sr=8-1&keywords=1%2F2%2Bx%2B1%2F8%2Blink&th=1
Reviews say they are but does anyone here have personal experience?

Any and all help is appreciated, thanks r/bicycling! I'll also post on the other bicycling subreddits to get a wide variety of standpoints.

Sorry not get back to you sooner was really busy yesterday. The 96 model think would have had cantilever brakes as stock, V-brakes were brand new when this came out, and prety sure the Indy forks didn't come out on bikes until 97 model year.

So parts list of stuff to buy

Cassette:

https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-8-Speed-Nickel-Plated-Cassette/dp/B00DI65HGU

Chain:

https://www.amazon.com/X8-99-Bicycle-Chain-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B0013BV540

You might want to buy two you will want to carry a spare chain on tour

Tires:

https://www.amazon.com/Maxxis-Crossmark-Black-Fold-Tires/dp/B00GHTQ7Q4?th=1&psc=1 (might find cheaper elsewhere, but you want the dual compound/DC ones with the EXO casing ideally - there are cheaper options for tires that would work than these but I think it's one area it's not so good to cheap out on)

Shifters:

https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-SL-M360-Acera-Shifter-Speed/dp/B001ON6VIW

(or find some vintage 8-speed XT/LX ones from eBay, they are a little nicer)

Brake pads:

https://www.amazon.com/Kool-Stop-Compound-Mountain-Linear-Threaded/dp/B001CLSWKQ

These should make a decent improvement to braking power especially in the wet, you could bring the old pads on the tour as spares/backups if they still work OK and have life left (always want to have at least a pair of spare pads)

New cables:

https://www.amazon.com/JAGWIRE-MOUNTAIN-SHOP-KIT-Derailleur/dp/B01DJGUEE8

You'll need at least new inner cables to install new shifters, and probably a good idea to replace the housing too, though you need either really good cable cutters or a Dremel/rotary tool with a cut-off wheel to cut housing, or get a bike shop to cut it to length. Not suggesting white colour that was just the first link I saw though it might look pimp.

Tools:

You could get a tool kit like one of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CW911XW/ref=emc_b_5_t

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/nz/en/x-tools-bike-tool-kit-18-piece/rp-prod40997

Or you could buy a multitool that would be good for bringing on the tour

https://www.amazon.com/Vibrelli-Bike-Multi-Tool-V19/dp/B06XGWMGB9

And extra stuff like cassette tool and chainwhip and tire levers individually:

https://www.amazon.com/Oumers-Freewheel-Sprocket-Lockring-Maintenance/dp/B07GSRJGP3

https://www.amazon.com/Schwalbe-1847-Bicycle-Tire-Levers/dp/B000UAQL6C

That might be the way to go.

That's not everything you'd need to go touring and stuff like the bars and saddle are a lot about personal taste but should be good to get you started.

Apologies for using amazon.com links I'm too used to helping Americans on here but hopefully can get them on the .ca site. Chain Reaction that I linked the toolkit from (would be confident that's the best out of those three kits I have some of the tools from it) in the UK can be a good place to order stuff from

OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.

Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.

Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)

Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.

Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..

In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.

May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.

So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.

sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.

The bike started life as a 2012 Motobecane Fantom Cross Pro, which came with some good components already. SRAM Rival partial group,
FSA crankset, and Mavic Aksium Race wheels. I've had good luck with this bike and it's got almost 2k miles on it, so I kept most of it, but not all.

Once I decided to make it my commuter bike, I started adding things.

For lights I picked up the Cygolite Hot shot rear light and use one of my MTB lights if needed for the front, a
Chinese knock-off CREE XM-L2 front light

For tires I went with the Panaracer RiBMo 700x32c based on feedback from users on here.

You can't go wrong with a Tubus Logo Evo Rear Rack and Ortlieb Back Roller Classics.


I wanted some extra gearing for those climbs along the way, so I went with the SRAM FORCE Rear Derailleur so I could run a SRAM PG-1050 11-32 Cassette.

Of course, I needed a new KMC X10SL chain for the new gear combo.

I picked up a new road bike and pulled the Ritchey Pro Streem Saddle and Ritchey Pro Biomax bars off of that bike and used them on my commuter, along with some new Lizard Skins DSP 3.2mm bar tape and some Soma Road Flares for added visibility.

For a little less weight and possible shock absorbtion, I threw in a Chinese knock off carbon seat post.

I also wanted something besides my regular riding shoes, so I opted for the Shimano Click'R PD-T700 pedals and
Shimano SH-CT40 Cycling Shoes
, which I love and highly recommend.

I also needed to adjust the fit so I picked up a Kalloy Uno 6 90mm stem because I've had great luck with them on other bikes.

And for added safety, I picked up two rolls of 3M Scotchcal Reflective Striping Tape in white and black, and added white stripes to the white frame and black stripes to the rims and the back of my helmet.

How is the chain slipping? Is is dropping down or hopping up a rear gear, or is it slipping forward across teeth of the same gear?

Just based on your language, and how I perceive your knowledge of how everything is working, you might be best served by visiting a bike shop. Please don't take that as a knock against you, but if you want to take it in, you will be well served.

That being said, where's the fun in that? Let's do this ourselves!

If the chain is slipping forward, it may be stretched. Check out Sheldon Brown's article on chains. You can measure the chain stretch using a ruler, since every full link (that's two half-links, the individual swiveling parts) is 1" pin-to-pin. Measure twelve inches and the whole 12" should be pin-to-pin on a brand new chain. If your chain is 1/16" past 12" measuring twelve full lengths, replace it. If it gets more gone, it will start wearing down the teeth of your rear gears, and you'll need a new cassette or freewheel, depending on your rear wheel. That will cause slipping and skipping for sure, even with a brand new chain!

If you replace the chain, you will need to get a cheap chain breaker. There are many kinds at different price points, but I can vouch for that one as I carry it with me.

For a new chain, you have to get one that is the right width. This generally depends on the number of rear "speeds" you have. Up to 8 speeds in the rear is a standard chain. 9, 10, and 11 speeds in the rear require a chain that is thinner to fit in between the close spacing between gears.

You can also get a master link and replace a link in your chain with it - you can then remove the chain and reinstall it (for cleaning and work) without using a breaker. That's just a random one I found on amazon, which happens to be for 10-speed chains.

Measure your chain, check your gears for wear. If you have to replace your chain you just need a chain breaker and new parts. If you have to replace the rear gears as well you need a new set of gears and the appropriate freewheel/cassette removal tool. There a few common types of freewheel tools and just one cassette removal tool. They lock in to splines and allow you to use a standard wrench or socket to remove the tool.

EDIT:
Here's a video about removing a cassette

Here's a video about removing a freewheel

Here's a video about measuring a chain

Here is my list I made for another post. It works from 60 to -10 or so.

Here are my recommendations for surviving a Boston winter:

Bibs, Base Layer, Leg Warmers, Arm Warmers, Thermal Jersey, Jacket, Helmet Cover, Toe Cover, Shoe Cover, Gloves, Balaclava & Socks.

This is almost exclusively Pearl Izumi because it fits me, I can get a good deal on most of it if I wait to buy and the quality is amazing. It is not cheap but I rode almost every week outdoors last year during one of the worst winters we have had in a long time.

Also, do yourself a favor and get a rear fender and wet chain lube. Also staying hydrated is very important as anyone would tell you but it is hard to drink cold water when it is cold so I find this stuff from Skratch Labs really helps. Be prepared to a lot more drive train maintenance due to the salt and sand you will get in your chain and cassette.

Let me know what you have questions on and I will be happy to report back. I don't use all of this on every ride, it is weather dependent but in the middle of winter, I certainly like being able to bundle up and then remove a layer or unzip when needed. It makes riding fun when the thermometer dips below 15°F.

I built up a Disc Trucker last spring. I stuck closely to Surly's build in the gearing department as it mainly is a touring bike. I went 9-speed because the chains are a touch more durable and when you get into 10-speed, Shimano's road and mountain offerings start having some incompatibilities. With a 9-speed drivetrain, you can mix and match road and mountain to whatever extent you like.

I actually have two different gearing setups. One for true touring with a mountain rear derailleur and an 11-34 cassette and another with a road rear derailleur and a 12-26 cassette.

Here's relevant parts off my list:

|Part|Model|Other|Notes|
|:---|:---|:---|:---|
|Crankset|Shimano Deore M590|175mm arm length|Has the trekking gearing 26/36/48 and Hollowtech because why not.|
|Rear cassette|SRAM PG-950|11-34 for touring, 12-26 for commuting|Yes, as far as casettes go, it's a heavy bugger. But when we're talking about LHTs, who really cares overly much about weight? As a side note, you'd need a mountain derailleur to use the 11-34, but you'd be just fine with the 12-26 for your 105.|
|Shifters|Shimano Dura-Ace 9-speed bar-end||If you're using this for touring, I'd recommend the bar ends. Otherwise, get whatever brifters you like, use a couple of Travel Agents and get some V-brakes.|
|Brake levers|Tektro RL520|Long-pull|Those guys are long pull, so they work with V-brakes and mountain-pull disc brakes. Ergonomics are decent, if a tad too pointy for my tastes.|
|Handlebars|Salsa Bell Lap||No longer being produced, sadly.|
|Saddle|Brooks Champion Flyer||I've put thousands and thousands of miles on this saddle. Love it. It's a little heavy if you're doing light commuting. For daily commuting and touring, though, it's hard to beat.|
|Pedals|Shimano M520||They're pretty low on the totem pole as far as component level, but I've had nary a problem with multiple sets. Clipless that won't break the bank.|
|Chain|SRAM PC-951||It's a cheaper chain more than adequate for commuting and touring.|

All the drivetrain stuff is 9-speed, but you can find the 10-speed equivalents rather easily. In your case, if you're not setting off across the country or across the world on your LHT, I'd say go for a set of brifters. If you want to go 9-speed, I'd look for an older set of Ultegra shifters. For 10-speed, I'd keep it 105 or above...or Rival or above for SRAM. SRAM has a lot more tactile feedback on the shifts while Shimano tends to be smoother. I prefer SRAM, but to each their own. Bar-ends are great and low maintenance, but not being able to shift from the hoods can get a little annoying after a while.

As to online retailers, a lot of parts can be had reasonably from Amazon. I also use Jenson USA. They ship fast, have free shipping on orders above $50, and price match on parts. I use Nashbar occasionally, but their shipping department is woefully slow and I avoid buying from them whenever possible.

great looking bike! shimano 600 components of that era (so-called "tri-color") has quite a good reputation and cult following.

as far as a frame ID: i would suggest heading over to bikeforum's classic and vintage, there are a few peugeot threads there and an impressive amount of knowledge on the forum.

chain-- width only changed with the advent of 9-speed, so you can use any "8-speed" chain just fine. personally i love the sram chains with power-link because they are good-quality, inexpensive, and the link makes installing and removing very easy (e.g. for cleaning the chain off the bike).

Wonderful, it sounds like great upgrade. I was looking at something like this chain. I assume this will require the removal of some links to fit?

I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.

FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6

UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR

Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ

KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M

Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI

Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI

Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS

XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW

​

Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette

SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/

JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO

You don't need a 21 speed chain, you need a 6/7 speed chain. Here's an example of this. Most stores which sell bikes, including department stores, stock these chains. You can pretty much use any chain tool . Some choose to use a dedicated chain tool, while others choose to use the chain tool in their multi tool. If you don't already have a bike multitool, I would highly recommend picking one up. This one is very highly regarded and the additional $11 over a generic chain tool might well be worth it, if only because of the huge amount of added functionality.

For tips on changing a chain, you can watch this video.

If I were you, I'd just stop now and save your money for a better bike. The Schwinn Varsity weighs 42 lbs, or about 12-18lbs over what even a generic chromoly framed 80s road bike would weigh, and given that you can pick those up pretty cheaply on craigslist, I'd trade it in and go that route.

But assuming you're already sentimentally attached to this one, despite the fact that it weighs about two full gallon milk jugs more than a bike needs to, you're going to need to start with a 1 piece to 3 piece adapter, like this American to Euro BMX adapter.

Then add a generic road double crankset in your desired length and the appropriately sized bottom bracket, and a fresh chain cut to the right size.

Other than that, it's basically a question of taking the old parts off and putting the new parts on and transferring the pedals over.

If the pins and internals of the chain are rusted, when the rust is removed there will be some slop. I do agree that if the whole drivetrain is worn, your better off just freeing the chain so you don't have to replace the cassette too. But if the cassette isn't worn, I'd just replace the chain.

Without getting into the LBS debate, I buy chains online. My old LBS charged $40 for an 8 speed chain. They're less than $10 online. I'm not gonna make my college student friends pay $30 extra to support the LBS. $10 speed chains have a similar markup as well. I find many shops don't carry the basic KMC chains which I prefer.

http://www.amazon.com/KMC-7-8sp-chain-Silver-Brown/dp/B001CN6QA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1413374754&sr=1-1&keywords=8+speed+chain

http://www.amazon.com/KMC-10-Speed-116-Links-Bicycle-28-Inch/dp/B001AYOP9M/ref=sr_1_11?s=cycling&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1413374848&sr=1-11&keywords=10+speed+chain

For Shimano chains (which based on your second question sounds like you have), you must use a replacement pin. Putting the pin back in will likely result in the pin coming out.

Shimano 9 speed chain pin - Just search for whatever speed chain you have (7,8,9 or 10) for the right pins.

Better yet, use a KMC quick link: KMC 9 speed missing link Again, there are links for various speed chains make sure to search the right one.

I normally break my chain when new and replace a link with a KMC link, makes it super easy to take the chain on and off for cleaning, especially on a MTB. Also, the KMC links come in a 6 pack so I toss one or two in my saddle bag in case I need one to fix the chain during a ride.

FIFTY FIVE DOLLARS for a dummy hub!?!?!? That's a pretty impressive markup for adding some green anodized aluminum and a logo. Some people will buy anything.

A Pedro's Chain Keeper does exactly the same thing for about 12 bucks, and will probably last your lifetime ... even if you clean your chain several times a day.

One small thing to note with respect to other replies is that your bike appears to have a freewheel and not a cassette. KMC Z51 is probably fine and is about as cheap as a chain can get.

With that sort of setup, many people just run them until it stops performing well and then replace the freewheel and chain together. You can replace both for the cost of a decent 8 or 9 speed chain. In any event, as someone has already said, it's probably best to ride it until the winter is over and changing it in the spring.

Nice find! I even raced one of these for a bit. It seems like it's been sitting for a while. I would replace:

• Tires: Get the biggest tire that'll fit.
  
• Brake Pads: This bike looks like it's been sitting. The rubber in the pads is toast. Get some Kool Stops
  
• Chain: Never trust an old one. KMC makes solid stuff.
  

Sweet. So I am going to go with the 130mm spaced hub you linked above along with this cassette with 34 teeth to help with those mountains, this derailleur with the longer lever to work with the larger cassette, and this 6/7/8 speed chain. Let's hope it all works together!

Definitely a good decision by attempting to do the repair yourself instead of taking it to the LBS, you'll be saving a lot of money.

You can get the tools and parts for cheap on Amazon. you'll be paying triple+ if you buy them from the LBS, though the trade off is you won't be helping support "the little guys".

i'd hold off on replacing the front chaining since they wear at a verrrry slow rate compared to rear cogs, and only do so if you have similar problems after riding on a new cassette & chain.

You'll need a chain breaker tool to get the old chain off, this is one I purchased about 2 years ago, used it on 6 or 7 chains and it's still is going strong, under $10 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179JC31I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and a new chain- https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-6-7-Speed-32-Inch-Silver/dp/B074YZGKKQ

also when was the last time you had your rear hub repacked? i'm not sure if just slapping a new cassette on that wheel given its state is a good idea, you might want to consider repacking with new grease and bearings and lubricating the free-hub first, which is more involved.

personally i'd say either get a new rear wheel, chain & cassette, then tinker around with the old wheel on the side, experiment with it, and ultimately keep it as a back up, or take the wheel to the LBS and let them overhaul the hub / lubricate the freehub before putting a new cassette on yourself, unless you want to spend the time learning how to do all that yourself, on-top of having to buy additional tools, bearings, grease, etc.

perfect! thanks. is sunlite any good?

sort of unrelated: If im only using the rear 5 gears and 1 in front on my 10 speed, then could I get a chain that is meant for a 5-8 speed and then not use my full range? 10 speed chains are stupidly expensive. im looking at this shimano cn-hg70 right now.

Thats the 112 link x10 10 speed chain with the connector link removed, leaving 111 links. I'm leaving the Amazon link below. They're buying this and removing the connector and selling it for the original price but as an 11 speed chain. Wow. Also it's out of stock. Maybe they got reported.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001AYOP9M/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?qid=1466225022&sr=8-16&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=kmc+11+speed+chain&dpPl=1&dpID=41-A4hwdBrL&ref=plSrch

Ya you either need a new 700c rear wheel or to lace a new rim to the current hub. . Not sure if your bike has a cassette or a freewheel. It says 6 speed gearing so my money is on a 6 speed freewheel. If that’s the case you need a wheel set up for a freewheel and also a freewheel remover if you are gonna do it yourself.

I’m gonna throw an upgrade at you to consider.

29er wheelset (same size as 700c but called 29er because it’s a mountain bike rim.)

Mountain bike wheels are a little beefier and will take more punishment. This one is cheap and comes with tires already.

Mavic Rim 29er Mountain Bike Wheels with Disc Brake Shimano Hubs PLUS Free Continental 29x2.2" Race King Tires and Tubes! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDTR27Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SlF9AbR7A1F1B

9 speed cassette
Shimano HG400 9 Speed Mountain Bike Cassette - CS-HG400-9 (11-36) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073CFBPF9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_boF9Ab48BVPKH

SRAM X.5 Rear Trigger Shifter for 9 Speed Drivetrains, Black, 9 Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063HG45Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bpF9AbA9TRZ94

SRAM X5 Medium Cage Silver 9 Speed Rear Derailleur https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00554231U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QqF9AbC18FV41

KMC KMC023 X9.93 Bicycle Chain (9-Speed, 1/2 x 11/128-Inch, 116L, Silver/Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYJF2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lrF9AbDFWEG5T

So basically $280 would get you new wheels that are tougher and come with bigger cushier tires, and allow you to upgrade to disc brakes in the future. Also we’re scraping the terrible 6 speed freewheel and upgrading to a 9 speed cassette. It will shift better, give you better low end torque and high end speed. The wheel set also allows you to upgrade to 10, 11 or even 12 speed but 9 should be sufficient.

Marlin 5 looks like a 7 speed. So pretty much any old chain will work fine.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-X8-93-Bicycle-Chain-7-3mm/dp/B001MXQHPG/

*edit, this one is $2 cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Z-72-7-8sp-chain-Brown/dp/B001CN6QA2

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

https://www.amazon.com/SRAM-P-Link-Bicycle-Chain-8-Speed/dp/B000VDFQAA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sram+8+speed+chain&qid=1558695763&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-3

​

I haven't personally used that model, but i've been using sram chains for years. They have a superior linking system to other manufacturers. If you buy or borrow a chain breaker, installing it yourself is simple enough. The big detail that you want to shop for is an 8 speed chain.

Thanks for the help!

I bought:

chain

cassette

Yes. I like fidgetland toys, have a few "Noah" and similar I bought as well as bunch of home made "chainey" (just need this chain and a chain tool I already had for working on my bike). I also really like my thinket (just got the cheapest plastic one) and my fidget cube , but they're a bit noisier and distracting to others if anyone is around.

I have fidget cubes and spinners, and don't find either one as useful for me.

I love a quiet chain so, this and this.

So, bit of an update, this is what I ordered earlier and wanting to make sure they're compatible/good choices:

Cassette:
SRAM PG850 8 Speed

Rear Derailleur
Shimano Alvio 8 Speed

Chain
SRAM 850

and I was unable to find any 'cheap' single bar end shifters, most were the 'extreme' kind that have bars extended out in front of the rider(unsure what that is called); however, was able to find a 'good' deal for a right Shimano Sora ST3000 8 Speed shifters.

From my understanding, I could mix/match many of the parts except the RD and the sifter should be the same brand. They all should be 8 speed?
The one part that I have reservations about is the rear deraileur as I would prefer something more 'roady' than the Alivio but unable to find any that are '8 speed'; would it be possible to get a 9 speed Shimano RD and have it still function well?

>Change out the old cassette with a new Shimano HG-50-7-- will this even work on a road bike? 12-28

That depends on your rear derailler, but it will probably work.

>I need a chain to go with that.. thinking Shimano CN-HG-70-CS

half the price and the reuseable master link is nice.

Take a look here for your cheap CXP 22 needs. The cxp22/2200 (in silver) is $109 with ~$17 shipping vs Bicyclewheels' $145 + $50 shipping.

Oh thanks... it seems to be cheaper on amazon though :)

http://www.amazon.com/Sram-P-Lock-10-Speed-Bicycle-Chain/dp/B003VFEF6Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373296507&sr=1-1&keywords=pc+1051

That track bike is *$&!^#% sick.
Oh and that chain on it is awesome, and affordable, i recommend it.
http://www.amazon.com/KMC-K710SL-SuperLite-Bicycle-1-Speed/dp/B001CNARIE/ref=pd_sim_sbs_sg_1

Here's the fanciest chain Shimano makes for 6/7/8 speed drivetrains, and it's under $20 with free shipping from the Walmart of the web: https://www.amazon.com/SHIMANO-ICNHG71116I-Shimano-CN-HG71-8-Speed/dp/B00N3R30WC/

Check out my post.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/chpp6t/first_build_first_ride_tsdz2/

Smooth shifting with new:

SHIMANO MF-TZ21 14-28 Teeth 7 Speed Freewheel

KMC X8.99 Bicycle Chain (1/2 x 3/32-Inch, 116L, Silver)

Getting over 60+ miles using gears first, 75% tour mode, 25% Speed/Turbo mode.

​

Kickstand: FORTOP Bike Support Bicycle Kickstand Adjustable Aluminum Alloy for 22" 24" 26" 28" Mountain Bike/Road Bicycle/BMX/MTB/City Commuter Bike/Kids Bike/Sports Bike/Adult Bike/700 Road Bike

Hi ,

Im looking for a new 7 speed chain for my bike something cheap

Currently looking at this one

http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000AOA3PS/ref=gno_cart_title_0?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB

Had it previously on my bike it was alright but was wondering if there are more options in this price range? (Live in canada if on amazon the better!)

The length of chain you need is determined generally by looping it through the largest front and back chain rings, then adding 2 links. Usually a chain is longer than it needs to be. If you don't shorten it the bike will shift poorly.

Also that chain will not work for that bike, its a single speed chain for cruiser bikes and you need a 10 speed chain. Dont buy that shitty of parts for a bike that nice, you want either SRAM or Shimano, other companies make 10 speed chain but they will be more money. The bike came with an Ultegra 10 speed chain, both of these are a step down but not that much.

Procrastination is a disease, and I am sick.

• 55cm Matte Black Throne Track Lord Frame $285
  
• Gold Origin 8 single speed crankset $75 (I know it's cheaper elsewhere)
  
• Diatech compe gold finger brake lever $33
  
• KMC Gold BMX bicycle chain $23 (It is the 710 I think)
  
• Promax P-1 gold stem $70
  
• Mavic 700cc Ellipse track fixed gear wheel set/rims (slightly used) $550
  
• Cinneli mash bullhorn handlebars $150 (Are they really that expensive? I paid $20 for mine from a bro.)
  
• Rock Bro’s Alluminum Alloy Gold Pedals $25
  
• Pure fix pro Carbon Fork $200
  
• Cateye bike computer $45
  
• Cinelli Avaldo Crest bike saddle/seat $43
  
• Cinelli handlebar end plugs $6
  
• Gator Skin tires $75
  
  $1580 total, not even trying to bargin shop. Cog, lockring, seatpost (nope, frame comes with), brake and housing and cable, we'll be generous and call it $1700
  
  Bargain!

You will need this: https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-Tourney-Mountain-Bicycle-Derailleur/dp/B00OJZQPDI

And this:
https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-Chain-Speed-32-Inch/dp/B000AOA3PS

And some tools or a local bike shop to put it all together.

Also, clean your bike!

Been riding this one for 4 years, still good as new. ~$8

http://www.amazon.com/KMC-Z410-Bicycle-1-Speed-8-Inch/dp/B000AO5NI0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463584099&sr=8-2&keywords=bike+chain

You need a 5/6/7 speed 1/2" x 3/32" chain. This one or something like it will do:

http://www.amazon.com/KMC-Z30-Bicycle-5-Speed-116L/dp/B0013C4JGU

You look it up online. Or on the packaging I'd guess. According to amazon it's a 3/32.

I think that'd fit with the 'narrow' on your previous chain (the 2 most common chain widths are 3/32 and 1/8).

(3/32 is narrower than 1/8)

> Sram PC-1091

https://www.amazon.com/KMC-10-Speed-116-Links-Bicycle-28-Inch/dp/B001AYOP9M

This seems to be the chain that was on the bike.. doesn't look like the hollow pin design you had mentioned.

Thanks man

If the bike you have fits you and hasn't been terribly abused it might be worth just keeping it. 550 is going to buy another entry level-ish bike. $200 in tools and parts can fix most issues, and you can keep up on your own maintenance from then on.

A 9 speed chain and chain tool. 30 bucks

[Brake and Shifter Cables and housing ]
(https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXV23A7/) and cable cutter $50

9 speed cassette HG400 and Lockring tool $35

Cone Wrenches 13/14 13/15 15/16 17/18 $20 for repacking hub grease $11

allen wrenches $11

None of this is very difficult to do if you watch a youtube or 2. The hardest part is getting the derailleurs working again, and that isn't really that bad.

I spend up for the K710SL, but this doesn't look too bad (friends have bought it), and has become my reference for base level chain cost.

https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Silver-Single-Speed-Chain/dp/B000AO5NI0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1500666491&sr=8-1&keywords=single+speed+chain+kmc

Wait correction, I do have one of these on my """beater""" fixie.

OP can get a white one for $8
Brown is under $7 delivered, a real testament to the power of capitalism

Wiggle.com might be cheaper but here are amazon links. This is a simple parts list. In addition to cables.

Shimano Sora R3000-GS Medium Cage Rear Derailleur Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K5C70T6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NAQ1AbV85X6N3



KMC KMC023 X9.93 Bicycle Chain (9-Speed, 1/2 x 11/128-Inch, 116L, Silver/Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYJF2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9BQ1AbT1P3155


Shimano FC-2450 50/34T Double 8-Speed Claris Crankset, Silver, 170mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CSYP2CC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_BDQ1Ab774ETJ1


SRAM PG950 11-32T 9-Speed Cassette https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A3DMBA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rEQ1AbRJTATWS

If it is a 26" moutntian bike, get some Schwable marathon tires. They are excellent tires for most beginners riding around in most road/rough road conditions. Don't get some 15$ tire. Some basic BBB brake pads will be fine - nothing fancy. Get a chain while you're at it. For people unsure of what seat to get, I'd recommend on the the Tioga accentia line of seats, but they don't seem to be common in the US. You don't want one that is soft and spongey - even "gel" saddles should be very firm (similar to the feeling of the bicycle tire), and you want one to match your tailbone size. They make saddles in varying sizes (ladies have a wide pelvis, so their saddles are wider than all others, for example).

Remember, old bikes usually need 3 things: grease, cleaning, and a new chain (8sp linked, get the proper one for you). Dry bearings in the hubs/pedals are usually the worst.

Take you bike to a local bike shop and have them at least look at it. They can help you get the tires and seat. Give the 700c tires to the mechanic there (if they are not cracked up along the sides, otherwise toss em).

I bought this one; https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001AYJF2E?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Its 116 links. It's also worth checking on the cable tension and making sure your derailleur is aligned and indexed correctly.

KMC calls it missing link. Both SRAM and KMC work fine.

I carry them. I put it in the tube patch kit box.

It's a chain keeper. Not sure who made that specific one (looks like Park Tool blue, but who knows), but here's Pedro's Chain Keeper.

Edit: Appears to be a Morgan Blue Chain Keeper

if you take it to a bike shop they should be able to replace the chainring and sprocket and put a chain on.

If you want to do it yourself you'll need to following:

https://www.amazon.com/Shimano-SG-3C40-Nexus-Sprocket-23T/dp/B007FOVIDW

https://www.amazon.com/KMC-Bicycle-Chain-Speed-32-Inch/dp/B000AOA3PS

For the chainring you should measure the BCD, directions here: https://wickwerks.com/bolt-circle-diameter-bcd/ This chainring works for 110BCD or 130BCD: https://www.amazon.com/Origin8-BMX-Singlespeed-Fixie-Chainring/dp/B003J7ZP9W

Shimano HG71 6/7/8-Speed Chain https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3R30WC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OH42Cb98QQG56
Just match the size of the chain and weave it in the same way it's in now.

http://www.amazon.com/SRAM-P-Link-Bicycle-Chain-9-Speed/dp/B001A0A8KG

https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-Chain-Keeper-Bicycle-Tool/dp/B000IZEH1K

Very handy

Gold:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CNARIE/ref=pd_sim_468_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=VG17X4WDDHGAZPBRM1GF

It is a 3/32 7 speed KMC Chain.

I did 105 chains for a while, but they cost a fortune and they lasted me about 2 months. I've since started using this bad boy:

http://amzn.com/B001AYOP9M

It's cheaper, comes with a master link, and makes it through a whole year. It probably weighs 2 oz more. Oh no!

Thx, that was really helpfull. I searched for sth similar in German / on the german Amazon pages, but no matches. For example I typed in "26 36 46 Kurbel" (=crank) and the only hits were either some 2-chain-rings cranksets or a 26-36-48 Crankset.

Regarding radcopter2's comment that the rings don't needed to be replaced urgently, I will have my chain checked, if it is too loose by now. THe chain is still a mass product and only costs ~ 20 USD.

Also the cassette (7-speed, 12-28 teeth) is still available at amazon.

You need an 8-speed chain. They're cheap--here's one for under $10--so buy one and be done.

Get a chain tool while you're at it, because you may need to remove a few links. Lay the new by the old to decide where to remove extra links.

In the future, store the bike indoors when you're at home, no matter how inconvenient it may be. Otherwise, everything made of steel will rust and turn to shit.