(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best bike pedals

Just making sure here, but you've got a helmet right? It's nice to have a nice helmet, but use whatever you have. I find the basic Giro helmets to be plenty good enough, haven't gotten a concussion or anything yet. https://www.amazon.com/Giro-Fixture-Sport-Helmet-MATTE/dp/B075RN86Z7/ref=sr_1_15?dchild=1&qid=1574830300&refinements=p_89%3AGiro&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-15

Kneepads and gloves can be useful. I prefer riding without gloves, but have cut up my hands pretty bad on plants and the like when crashing. It's getting colder here though, so gloves are becoming less optional if I don't want frozen hands. I've also bashed the shit out of my knees before, I should really get some kneepads.

Do you have a way to carry water and your stuff when biking? I use a Camelback and love it https://www.camelbak.com/en/packs/bike . Don't worry about getting a fancy one, it's a backpack. An off brand one on amazon with decent reviews will do ya just fine.

5.10 's are the best shoes https://www.rei.com/product/872539/five-ten-freerider-mountain-bike-shoes-mens , but if you're just starting out a pair of tennis shoes/trainers is fine. Vans are also really good shoes, they stick to the pedals but aren't stiff like the 5.10's are. Way better than tennis shoes though, and some people prefer them to 5.10's because they bend.

A good pair of pedals isn't a bad idea. This one is all personal opinion, I run these bad boys https://www.raceface.com/products/details/chester-pedals . There's also a knockoff of them on Amazon for $20, and they work great. https://www.amazon.com/FOOKER-Composite-Mountain-High-Strength-Bikesflat/dp/B07L5RF5CW

Does the bike come with a dropper post? Cause those are awesome.

That's all I can think of. You're probably going to want to learn to fix your bike and buy the tools you need as things break. A multitool for bikes is a good starting point. The Allen keys on the tool let you adjust all sorts of stuff on the bike. You're going to need some kind of pump to keep the tires inflated. Some people are probably going to disagree with me here, but I really like doing all the work on a broken bike myself. Saves a good chunk of change.

That's all I can think of. Good luck and send it.

Out of the list you have there, I think the most important ones are "tires" but I am also thinking he is asking for a new bike. Let me explain.

First, ask him why he wants clipless pedals. If it is because of the terrain is too rough and his feet are bouncing so much that he gets off the pedals, then that is the correct answer, If it is because everyone is using them, that is the wrong answer. You can always accommodate for this with technique. So for me, clipless pedals are just one more expense with not a lot of backing. There are downhill racers racing with flat pedals. I have personally avoided this expense and I prefer to get better in my technique of riding than solving the issues with clipless pedals. I have chosen to spend my money in other things like tubless tires and grips. BTW, the original pedals of this bike are terrible. If he is riding with those, then that's a must. I would change to flat pedals though... So ask him. (Chester flat pedals are affordable and great looking, plastic and can be reused in any other bike you get.)

https://www.amazon.com/RaceFace-Chester-Pedal-Turquoise-Size/dp/B06XKV7VH5/ref=asc_df_B06XKV7VH5/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312065280674&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7548884091665632536&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011905&hvtargid=aud-800703102928:pla-440833654491&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=62425943472&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312065280674&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=7548884091665632536&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011905&hvtargid=aud-800703102928:pla-440833654491

Second, "grips" grips are a good thing to get if you know about grips, like a lot. This can be one of the main things on that list and kind of cheap to get. That is because there are two point of contacts between your body and the bike, and that is pedals and grips. Grips come in first, that's how you handle the bike. again, ask him why grips, is it because he wants a nice color? or because his hands are slipping? is it sweat? is it that they are too big? or too small? Asses the issue and get those grips at a store where he can test them. I would think that gloves are more important since they protect your fingers (get full finger protection) and they enhance gripness and avoid slipping since sweat is mitigated. If it is size and diameter and his hands are getting off the grip, then the grip he has currently is too large.

"Tires": they are the one thing that makes the whole thing go. Depending on the terrain and how rough it is. They can make a ride in the woods where there are a lot of rocks and roots a pain in the butt if they don't have larger knots and spacing and dont grab a thing. again, ask him what is the problem with the tires, if it is the terrain he is riding, is it too soft, or too rooty? is he asking for speed tires? or grippy tires? (The original tires of this bike are not great, I've seen them and they have very little grip.) For me, tires are important because they can make you slip all the time in humid and rooty conditions and you can fall a lot. You might want to get tires with a lot of grip and allow the bike to advance without hesitating on "is it gonna grab or not?"

https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/us/en/maxxis-minion-dhf-mtb-tyre-exo-tr/rp-prod149555?gs=1&sku=sku545269&istCompanyId=64a3dd19-9b5e-411d-a4f3-46f21c06bfee&istFeedId=504a9a46-d791-4ab6-bde1-bd49b4b78bc6&istItemId=iwxxialaw&istBid=t&pgrid=53546199518&ptaid=pla-424288834263&utm_source=google&utm_term=&utm_campaign=PLA+All+Products&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid|sv58zieAv_dc|pcrid|253668879799|pkw||pmt||prd|545269US&gclid=Cj0KCQjwgNXtBRC6ARIsAIPP7RsbvGDXWN5Z_gQMqPkpkkamCyorYg05zbvjGI_9Ai3UhDg2-27vrOoaAuWMEALw_wcB

Brakes: Brakes are usually not well adjusted. Check them. If they are hydraulic brakes, they need to be bleed. The pads might need to be changed and the rotors need to be cleaned with alcohol. (Be carefull when you oil the bike, if oil gets into the break system they stop working completely) Maintenance is usually number one with brakes. The original breaks of this bike are decent.

"Fork" If he is asking for a new fork, then he is getting better. That fork in that model if I am not mistaken is a coil fork. This fork offers very little adjustment possibilities. The fork should be fine for his weight and size but if after adjusting he still doesn't like it. Then I would say this is one major expense. Whatever you put in this bike, he is not gonna be happy. Once you feel the suspension is not working well for you, then you are most likely asking for a new bike... Sorry but that's what this is. Forks are too expensive. For me, personally, I would look into a new bike if I have to change the fork. This goes well with the answer to question number 1, clipless pedals. Usually when you start riding harder and going faster on rough terrains, the suspension does not react well, the rear is too bouncy (on short travel bikes and hard tails), and your feet are coming out of the pedals. These are all signs of "I need a new bike".

I am surprised he has not spoken about a dropper post. If he is running faster, going downhill faster and feeling the pain in his behind, he would be asking for a way to mitigate that problem. A dropper post is a must once you start riding harder...

My recommendation would be to talk to him and find out more about the issues he is having. Understand him more in how he is riding, conditions of the terrain and his personal experience. Then, from that point see what you can change. I am guessing tires would be the first thing, pedals second. Change the rear tire first. That is a $70 to $75 expense that might just do the trick (if you install them yourself).

I have a friend who bought a Marin 7, 6 months ago, and just last week he got a $2100 giant full suspension. He sold this marin. That is because he was riding harder and changing one or two things weren't' going to improve the whole thing... Sorry...

Look into Marin bikes. They are very affordable bikes... I would tell him to get a 27.5 instead of a 29er. He will have more control and enjoy more a 27.5. I am 200 pounds and 6'2" and I ride 27.5 on a XL frame. They are great and give me enough flexibility in the trail. I do not race so I leave 29er for people who race.

I hope this helps and I am sorry if my answer is not something you were expecting to hear.

Btw. Hydraulic forks run around $300 I believe. Half of the cost of the marin. Not worth it. instead look at full suspensions bikes like the ones below.

https://www.the-house.com/qgtve27504rd18zz-gt-bikes.html?utm_source=shopzilla&utm_medium=ppc&utm_campaign=shopcomparefeed&CAWELAID=600004150004501914

https://www.bikebling.com/Marin-Hawk-Hill-JR-Kids-Bike-p/marin19-hawkhill-jr.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjwgNXtBRC6ARIsAIPP7Rt5lrqMivkRN6Emq_76ha_9bsDFLRutqcQADN1q08K4CqU5zvVum_saAolfEALw_wcB&Click=120514&utm_source=googlebase&utm_medium=shoppingengine

> because now I'm afraid of them

Literally everybody crashes at least once. Please don't let that scare you off. I've dumped a couple of times and, of fucking course, there were people watching. It's happened to all of us. If you want to practice, a narrow hallway in your home is probably ideal. You can practice on a grassy field but you're a lot more likely to fall when you're going slow on grass which could further discourage you.

>I put some tiny platform pedals on and ride in my stiffest soled shoes.

Hey, if that's what works for you, that's what works for you. I've been trying to convince people for years that the biggest benefit of clipless pedals is the stiff soled shoe. I ran "clipless," stiff soled, shoes for quite a while with half-clip toe cages and it was awesome. Actually picking up clipless pedals and cleats was a marginal improvement over the stiff soled shoe. I think the people that wear floppy "walkable" clipless shoes that look like typical street shoes are deluding themselves about the benefit of using cleats.

I would, however, suggest picking up something with a bigger platform if that's the way you're going to go. Ideally a single sided MKS pedal with a half-clip or a full toe clip and strap setup. Single sided platform pedals look nicer, weigh less, and often have a feature to help you flip the pedal into place and insert your foot. Example 1, 2, 3, 4

Seriously dude, if you're wigged out at the idea of riding clipless again, pull the cleat off your shoes and give them a try on your platform pedals. If you think it feels good, then invest in some half-clips/full-clips and compatible pedals (the soles of clipless pedals don't play nicely with the grippy bits of platform pedals and the toe clip will keep your foot from slipping around).

While some shifters are better than others, at this price point, they all will be about the same. If you want thumb shifters, that is a perfectly valid choice. There are also some trigger shifters out there, as well as grip shifters if you wanted to keep that style. As long as the shifter is shimano compatible, and 7 speed, it will work with your current freewheel and derailleur.

>As for what you described with the current drivetrain, what i think I'm seeing you suggest is 'clip the front derailleur off/remove it, leave the current crankset on with the chain at the middle gear since even though not optimal it current funds can be better spent elsewhere.' Am I reading that right?

No. The bottom bracket axle length will determine how close to or far from the frame the chankset is. This article on Chainline may be of some help.

What I was suggesting is that you can still change the crankset, and leave the derailleur in place as a chain guide (tighten the limit screws to ensure that the derailleur is centered over the chainring). They make purpose built chain guides, but the derailleur is already there and will work, so free chain guide.

As far as the rear derailleur, you have a claw mount derailleur, so for anything "better" than what you have, you will need an adapter. As far as upgrading the derailleur, I would personally go for something along the lines of the Altus M2000 or Acera M3000. Note that these are "9 speed" derailleurs, but the cable pull is the same as 5-8 and the shifter dictates the "speeds" shifted, so they will drop right in.

Pedals, Rockbros are the current king of the inexpensive. They come in a few colours, so you can match that to your taste.

Weeding the bad out is sometimes as easy as reading reviews, yes. However, look beyond the amazon for reviews. I generally prefer a video review, so I frequent YouTube for them, but google/duckduckgo can usually find a few forum posts as well that will answer questions.
It is also sometimes as easy as knowing a trusted name, and using their part over a shady one. Shimano and Sram parts are usually trusted and reliable on the drivetrain. Rockshox, Fox, and Manitou are good for shocks and forks, but Suntour is also sometimes good. There are more brands that are great, but on the low end price point, just play it by ear.

Lots of us commuters use SPD shoes and pedals. You don't have to, but they're pretty nice. The shoes you'll have to check out for yourself as every foot is different, but I would recommend the Shimano M520 as a great and cheap starter pedal.

I'm not a big fan of campus pedals (one side flat, other side clip), but some folks are. If you really want the best of both worlds I think you'll be better off with something like the Shimano M424.

I bought some shorts from Dicks Sporting goods. They have the spandex style with padding on the inside but also have cargo pants attached to the outside so you don't look like you are attempting the tour de france when you go into work. It looks like you are wearing shorts. I love the padding, mainly because I don't have an ass (Ha!). I steered clear of clipless, I recently bought some toe clips from amazon for 6 bucks after someone here on reddit recommended them. I figured for 6 bucks, its worth a test. It is very easy to slip your foot out even if you are strapped in. I'd say if you have enough hills, they are pretty helpful. Here are the Toe Clips.

For the pedals you currently have, it's going to be hard to find cleats, as these are rather old.

If you replace your pedals, you can even use mtb pedals (spd cleats) and mtb shoes. These are usually easier to walk on, but have the disadvantage of being less efficient for pedaling, but only slightly. If you go with proper road pedals, you're probably looking at 3-bolt patterned cleats, so your shoes should accept 3-bolt cleats. Of course, there's also 2-bolt patterned cleats for road bikes, like eggbeaters and spd (non-sl). And yes, you can get shoes that accept both type of cleats. The good news is that pedals usually come with cleats, if you're getting shoes at the same time, make sure they're compatible.


As for the bonus, check your tires, bar tape, maybe even the saddle. Definitely get your drivetrain checked, but that would have come back as recommended upgrades from your LBS.

I never liked clipless so my opinion is biased, someone else from the clipless camp can give you a counter-argument, but, I would stick to flats, get good flats and decent shoes.

Pedals are cheap, shoes are not; since they're the main contact point to your bike, its worth the investment. Even if you change bike they'll transfer over.

Nylon pedals are nice, you don't need metal. Nukeproof Electron EVO's are my favorite platform pedal, followed very closely by the Raceface Chester; the difference between both is barely noticable imo, i just give a slight advantage to the Electrons. Either pick will work great.

As for shoes, there are many good options, the Fiveten Freerider seems to be a common favorite, I personally use the bit bulkier Impact VXi, but many people find them too bulky. In any case, you're looking for a flat, stiff sole with sticky rubber.

So for the three that you linked, the surface area around the pedal is more for control while technical mountain biking than it is for comfort. In reality, the extra space only helps at those moments when you clip out to put a foot down (or “dab” in mtb speak) and pop your foot back onto the pedal but don’t necessarily have time to clip back in right away. Also helps control when leaning hard on the bike while cornering. For use in an urban environment, there really isn’t much benefit to them over a standard SPD pedal like the M520 in your first link.

As far as surface contact for comfort, a road pedal such as the SPD-SL style 105 pedal has a significantly larger contact area between the cleat and the pedal, which is really what matters. Some will argue that the larger contact area provides better dispersal of pressure, cutting down on the incidence of hot spots or nerve strain at the cleat. Compare that to the relatively small footprint of a SPD mountain bike cleat and you can see why some make that argument. I think this really comes down to personal experience, as many people find no issue with a mtb cleat. Another argument is that you get better transfer of power with the larger contact area, but I don’t think there’s any empirical evidence to support that. Third, and this holds water, one tends to experience far less play in the interface between a road cleat and pedal than between a MTB cleat and MTB pedal. The little bit of play one can find annoying, and while “comfort” is a subjective term, I can say that excessive play in my pedal/cleat interface at the very least makes me psychologically uncomfortable. Fourth, and this one is the one that really matters, you have far more rotational placement options on a road cleat and pedal than you do with a MTB cleat. For people who have pigeon-toes or excessive splay in their stance, the option of rotating their cleat a few more degrees inward or outward can really make a huge difference in ankle and knee comfort.

Take all this with the caveat that it’s easy to walk around in a MTB shoe with the cleat installed. Clunking around on road shoes and cleats is a different matter entirely and something most couriers don’t want to partake in.

Firstly, congrats on the ride! Keep it up!

I have the same bike (color and everything) so I can offer a few tips for the new(ish) rider with this rig. Treat it well and you will be happy with it for a long time. I have over 1200 miles on this bike.

First, as everyone has said, foot retention. I have the Pure Fix straps from amazon. If you can swing it I suggest upgrading the pedals as well when you buy retention. I have a nice slim platform from fyxation. About $25 but you can get something better than what is on that bike starting around $12 on up.

2nd, Seat. Keep doing 40+ mile rides and you will quickly realize the stock seat has to go. I have a charge spoon I paid around $26 for. Non-bike friends tell me how uncomfortable my seat looks and I tell them that you should see the original seat that came with the bike! I love the charge.

You see the black streaks from your brake pads on your wheels? Eventually that will cause a streaking noise that is horribly embarrassing if anyone is within a one hundred yard radius. It will also stop like shit. I taped off the rim and sanded the paint off of that edge, then replaced the pads with a really nice pad/shoe from amazon for about $10 a set. No noise, no black marks on the rim and nice braking.

Tires. Keep an eye out for a nicer set of tires. The stock ones will get the job done for a while but they are cheap. Keep an eye out on steepandcheap.com or theclymb.com or wherever. I picked up a set of Vittoria slicks online somewhere for around $16 each and it was a world of difference.

I did replace the brake levers but I broke one of the stock ones. The stock levers are cheap but no rush to replace them if you dont need to. Again, there are a ton of better options out there starting at around $15 when you are ready to upgrade.

I also replaced the bar tape but it was mostly because I was not happy with my install. The stock tape is fine.

I hope this helps a bit. I just wanted to show cheap bikes like this can get a lot of flack round these parts but a few reasonably priced upgrades can make this a nice bike that lasts you a long time.

Here is a few shots of mine. Disregard the blue bottle cage, its on there from a 50 miler i did a few weeks ago. my bike

I can't comment on clipless, but I love my clips. Even though it's not really helpful as I have the MKS GR-9 Pedals which I don't think will work with Power Grips, I just wanted to chime in by saying everything I've ever read about the Power Grips says they are awesome and you should enjoy them. Another MKS pedal might work for you, as that particular company makes good stuff.

People downvote me because I'm a little weird, but some of these are good, they have the capacity of being clipless, but still having the option of using regular shoes if you feel like it. If you want to save the weight and use only clipless these are good, they're simple clipless pedals, both are rather inexpensive, and if you feel like spending more money

Those HT AE01 look pretty cool, but MSRP of $150!! Holy cow!

I really like the MKS RMX "sneaker" flats for my commuter. $26, bombproof, and really comfortable in all kinds of footwear. No pins, but enough grip to keep your feet in place, IMO.

EDIT: I should add that the MKS RMX pedals may not be the best choice for rainy climates. They are great for me here in San Diego, or in Phoenix where I used to live, but probably they aren't grippy enough for real rainy weather riding. I've heard good things about the Redline Lo-Profile pedals with the sealed bearings for only $40. if I lived in a real rainy place, I'd consider switching to those.

Came here to say this. Check out their bikes, plenty at the price range. Keep in mind though that you may need to take it to a shop to be tuned correctly. Also, make sure it comes with the pedals you want. Mine came with clipless (I knew this), so I purchased something like these at my LBS. I bought a hybrid and used that for my campus cruising last year and really enjoyed it. I recently purchased a road bike from BD and love it. Your choice should be a combo of how your campus is set up and what you think would work best for you.

https://www.amazon.com/MKS-RMX-Platform-Pedals-Silver/dp/B006EPPB7M

Hands down the best all-round platform pedal in my experience. Made in Japan, grippy but not spiky, rolls smooth, will last forever. They're seriously sorta magical. I have no idea how they hold a shoe as well as they do, but they grab better than some MTB platforms I've ridden than will tear your skin off.

If you want clipless pedals it sorta depends on what cleat you want. I don't ride clipless very much but my preference is definitely for SPD, and I just use the Shimano pedal that best suits the bike for that purpose - they make ones for mountain bikes, road bikes, and "touring" which has a platform side and a clip-in side.

Honestly, a platform pedal with good velcro straps would be your best bet. Recently bought a pair for my beat up commuter and these things are amazing. With the added reflective seams it will help with being visible later in the day. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DPD5B9E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have Bonmixc Mountain Bike Pedals:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DETTSTW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They're really nice. The big question is really: What type of shoes are you wearing? These MTB-type pedals with grippy studs are great, but they will chew up leather-soled shoes, and possibly other nice dress shoes. But if you can wear casual, athletic shoes at work, or wear a pair for commuting and keep something else at work, then these are great.

Look silly shouldn't be much of a concern. Get what is effective for her and maybe effective for the future goal of going clipless.

I would just buy some cheap plastic BMX style pedals that comes with straps like fixed gear riders use. They're cheap and effective, you can start her with no straps, throw the straps on once she's comfortable, then once she has straps down she will have a mentality more ready for going clipless.

https://www.amazon.com/Retrospec-Bicycles-BMX-Style-Platform-Freestyle/dp/B00DPD5B9E/

I recommend cycling in boots (or trekking sandals), because you will want something rugged for all the walking you are going to be doing on your rest days, exploring a city with a Warm Showers host, say, or taking the opportunity to make a short hike. Bike shoes and clipless pedals, in my opinion, are a gimmick with sports cyclists in mind, not tourers. If you want more power on the upstroke, you can get Power Grips instead, though most tourers are not even going to find those more than a gimmick.

Also, clipless pedals are tiny little things because Shimano chases the ultra-lightweight sports market. For touring, I would recommend instead MKS Sylvan Tour pedals. It's comfortable on tour to have a nice, wide pedal.

Ok. Well, FWIW, I own those basic shimanos, and while they are "perfectly fine" if I had to do it again I'd probably buy the 105s. The 105s will have better bearings, and they will last longer with the metal plate, and they're not much more expensive. The 105s also come with the cleats, so you buy them and the 3-screw road shoes and you're ready to go.

>http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M545-Downhill-Clipless-Pedal/dp/B000XNXUUG

I wouldn't recommend those for riding any distance in normal shoes as the clip mechanism is by necessity proud of the platform.

My brother used to have M545s on his hybrid but got rid of them for that reason he's much happier with the M324 pedals he switched to instead. Getting the wrong side some of the time when you set off is preferable to having no right side. The new [A530 looks even better](http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-A530-Dual-Platform-Pedal/dp/B001MZ2AGO/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1397424911&sr=1-2&keywords=shimano+hybrid+pedals
) with a really nice big platform on the clip free side.

Personally I'd go for Time Allroad Grippers because I like the float atac pedals give you.

I would recommend some Fooker pedals from amazon. https://www.amazon.com/FOOKER-Composite-Mountain-High-Strength-Bikesflat/dp/B07D66NDS3/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=fooker+chester+pedals&qid=1573603749&sr=8-3****

I am pretty sure they are made from the same factory as Race Face chesters as i have both and can't tell any difference besides the logos. I have been using them for awhile now and they have held up great and they are only 20 bucks.

I just bought these MKS Lambda pedals and I'm very happy with them. They look great, have a ton of surface area, and are very grippy. Also consider the MKS Sylvan which I've used for thousands of miles and are also very good.

They are these ones, I think, but I got them at my LBS. Cheap, easy to install and feel great so far.

For pedals just get these. They're well-built, light, and work just as well as the more expensive variants (plus that bike is all 105 components so you might as well have the pedals be 105 as well). You'll need a pedal wrench obviously. You'll also need SPD-SL compatible shoes. Get these on amazon to save money. These are a pretty good starter shoe.

Yeah, if you're 6' a 57 should fit. I'd inspect it to make sure shifting, brakes, etc. are in working order and once you have the bike go to a place that does bike fitting (here is a good place to find locations). It'll run you around $100 but they'll be able to adjust heights, swap out the stem for a proper length, etc. Totally worth it to prevent injury (plus your bike will feel much better).

Different shoes have a pretty big effect on your position without adding in the clip less aspect. Though it's not certain you'd even need to, you could set it for the weekend rides and probably get by for your commute. But there's the possibility things won't be optimal without some adjustment.

I just think that if you're doing rides that long it's worth spending money for proper road pedals. To me these two seem like a better deal than this.

I have these $20 Fooker brand nylon MTB pedals on my commuter/tourer and they are great. They are very grippy with their aggressive studs, and seem to be very robust.



Edit: They are pretty much a cheap Chinese version of the RaceFace Chesters, but they seem to be just as good.

Something like this could work. Not as good with regular shoes as just a regular flat, but better than what she's probably using now.

Alternatively something like this, where one side is for the cleat and the other side is a flat. Downside is you have to futz about making sure you're on the ride side.

Depends on how she's using her bike I suppose. There are a million different brands/models, those are just the first examples I found.

Thanks man, is this the pedal you are talking about?

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M540-SPD-MTB-Pedals/dp/B000WYCCDW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1342153606&sr=8-3&keywords=spd+pedals something like that anyways?

I will get a multitool off amazon or something for all my bike fixing needs as well.

You can get these RF Chester knock offs on Amazon for like half the cost. Just as good honestly if not better.

Use a mountain style (2 bolt) pedal and cleat, so you can use the same shoe for both bikes. That will also allow more choice of shoes, easier walking, and the pedals are typically cheaper.

I always thought the pedals with a flat side were pretty annoying because you seem to "wrong" side when you put your foot down more often than not. If you absolutely have to have a pedal that works with street shoes and clips in, try these:

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M545-Downhill-Clipless-Pedal/dp/B000XNXUUG

Otherwise, I like BMX flat pedals. These are a significant upgrade to plastic test ride pedals that come on most bikes in terms of stiffness and grip. You might find this is more practical for your commuter:

http://www.amazon.com/Wellgo-Alloy-Sealed-Mountain-16-Inch/dp/B00E7UZ6I0/ref=sr_1_13?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1397418488&sr=1-13&keywords=bmx+pedals

What kind of pedals do you have installed? I wear my running shoes too and went from stock plastic pedals to very grippy pedals like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018J1J7QE/ref=twister_B01EONZSAA?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. The change in sticking to the pedals has made a world of difference when on the trail and skills like bunny hops etc. (I'm planning on updating my shoes too in the future, but I'm not in a rush since I feel comfortable on the new pedals.)

Hah. Looking for concrete answers?

Buy these. https://www.amazon.com/MKS-18092030213-Sylvan-Touring-Pedals/dp/B000MXOLAK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=mks+sylvan+touring+pedals&qid=1569467532&s=gateway&sprefix=mks+s&sr=8-1

Not so sharp that she’ll dump you for getting them but still really grippy.

Nice classic look that would nice on a road bike.

I put clips on a pair of half and halfs once and I wouldn't recommend it. It's pretty awkward riding with SPDs when the clips are hanging down, though it was alright when just using the clips.

If you've got your heart set though, these are compatible with just about any strap or clip you can find. Just add some of these or whatever you've got lying around and you're good to go.

For a fixed-gear commuter that encounters a lot of red lights and stop and go traffic, what type of foot retention is best? I just ordered a pair of Pure Fix foot straps, did I make a good choice?

I doubt it. I think they're about $50 USD usually. I don't think I've ever seen them below $40

I know my buddy runs a knock off pair on his hard tail and has had pretty good luck with them. I think they were called "Fooker" brand pedals. An amazon search shows they're $20 and appear to be an exact replica of RF Chesters. No idea how they will hold up to repeated abuse but might be worth a try if you can't do some extra stuff around the house to earn the extra credit with the parents.

Link: https://www.amazon.com/FOOKER-Composite-Mountain-High-Strength-Bikesflat/dp/B07L5RF5CW

I'm a big fan of Shimano caged clipless for pedals. They're decent to ride without clipping in, even. The cage also makes it easier to clip in.

For shoes I have something similar to these Shimano mountain shoes, but I didn't pay quite as much.

And now I sound like a Shimano salesman.

Basically, I prefer the shoes that have a bit of tread, rather than cleats, so that you can walk a bit if you need to. I think I paid around $40 for mine.

Take a look at the Giant Alight City. I ride the men's model and it has been a solid commuter thus far (~1000 Miles since July 20th). My commute is 13 Miles round trip, so fairly comparable to yours. With the savings vs the Linus you can get your panniers and lights and any other upgrades you see fit. Id recommend some Zefal half-clips if you're going to be riding in the rain.

Yes, I'd recommend getting a pedal like these or these for your commuter. Both are SPD with one side for the cleat and a platform for when you're not wearing cleats. Feel free to shop around for the best price, I just did a quick search on Amazon. I have the M324's on my commuter and have no complaints. The A520's were the other pair I considered when I went into the shop a year ago for this.

For the roadie I'd recommend something like the Shimano PD-M540

For commuting purposes I'd also recommend getting a pair of shoes for mountain biking. These tend to have the cleat within a recess which allows you to walk more comfortably from your bike to your desk when commuting. I'd highly recommend going to your LBS and letting them know your intentions. They should be able to find you a pair that fits you well. You may decide you want road shoes which is fine if they fit well and you don't mind how it feels to walk in them.

Of course, having road shoes are more ideal but if money is tight and you're not quite ready to drop the money, then this will save you from having to drop money on an extra pair of shoes. For reference, I commute 5 times a week and do additional cycling 4-6 times a week. I hear some people complain about "hot-spots" but I have never had any problems with my SPD mountain bike pedals and bontager mountain bike shoes. It has been close to a year since I bought my pedals and shoes though and I think it's about time that I get some road shoes and road specific pedals--mostly because I'm tired of my shoes getting wet during my commute and then having to put up with them being wet when I'm on the trainer at home.

Yea i completely get that. I don't disagree. Different movements use a different set of muscles so it will take time for my body to develop/adjust to mountain biking.

Here's the bike: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/elite_trail.htm

I got it some years ago, back in ~2012? Honestly dont remember what size I have. It's either the 15.5" or 17.5" since i'm 5'9". I've upgraded a few parts. I've put on

• Raceface Chester pedals
  
• Raceface Atlas Handlebars
  
• Raceface Half Nelson lock grips
  
• Truvativ Stem
  
• Wake Bar end plugs (not really a performance upgrade lmao)

Here you go . $30 and a variety of colors. I have these on my commuter/kid pulling bike and they're fantastic and available from Amazon.

Initially I bought these Meetlocks because they were only 15 bucks, just to try platforms. I had been clipless for 30 years. They started getting sloppy after about 5000 miles or so and there is no way to rebuild them. I moved on to Bonmixc and I'm really happy. I have about 12000 miles on them, and they are rock solid. The problem with them, is they have no rear reflector, and don't conform to California law...if you're a stickler about those things. I would probably buy a Shimano product like these because I understand they can be rebuilt, although they have the same reflector problem.

IMPORTANT Additionally, I would try measuring the distance between your feet when standing comfortably, then measure the distance between your pedals. If the distance between your pedals is less, you might be putting most of the pressure on the outside of your feet. I DID have that problem and added spacers like these to make up the difference. They come in different lengths and materials. The spacers solved 3 problems for me (I think). My feet, my knees (cyclers even call them knee savers) which became better aligned, and saddle chaffing by spreading my legs a little.

Adding the extensions might be all you need to do, and you can keep the clipless if that's preferable.

I bought these when they were one sale and under $20 About 600km on them so far and I'm very happy with them. Arrived in 2 days and took 2 minutes to install.

It is a slightly different subject, but do you know/are you able to calculate the extra benefit of using no clips/slide in clips/full on pedal clips?

Wondering if it would be worth it to upgrade from the slip ins to the full ons

Well it depends on what you want them for. For pure performance, power-transfer, and security, I would say SPD-SL. The downside is that you can't really walk around with SPD-SL cleats. I use these on my road bike and for long (all-day) rides on my fixie. For general everyday riding, I use SPD (mtb) pedals and DZR shoes. MTB pedals don't lock in as tight and have more float than road pedals. DZR shoes are easier to walk around in than most cleats, and better looking, but not as stiff as other shoes.

I bought the same bike a few months ago - I love it! I'm also pretty new and after a few months went clipless. I went with these pedals and these cleats. The nice thing about this combo is that whenever I have an "oh shit" moment I'm able to unclip without thinking about it. I haven't been outside of my state (MN) for MTB but we have an IMBA model trail and quite a few trails in the twin city area.

With snow coming to your state maybe eye up a Pugsley or Mukluk - I'm going to head out for my first snow ride today!

I like prefer the SPD-SL pedals compared to the old SPD style.

Make sure that you get the appropriate cleats for your pedals.

SPD-SL cleats : SPD cleats

To add on to someone else's comments, I'd make out your bike and components with that tax deduction. The clothes can come later, and you won't need the cold weather stuff until middle-late fall.

My current set up.

MKS-GR9 Pedals- $22 http://www.amazon.com/MKS-GR-9-Platform-Pedals-Silver/dp/B001GSMRQ0

MKS Double toe clips- $28 http://store.somafab.com/mkstoecldoga.html

Cadence Double straps- $54 http://www.citygrounds.com/cadence/cadence-double-toe-straps-175

Other nice items worth considering.
> Straps: Toshi doubles, All city doubles.

> Clips/Cages: SOMA

Mostly weight but the new entry level R550 features a resin composite body as well and are quite affordable. They also feature the wider platform of the higher end models though that doesn't matter too much with stiff cycling shoes.

I purchased the Ultegra pedals from Nashbar when they had a sell on Shimano components in addition to a 20% off any item sale. It came out to $96 compared to $147 for the cheapest Amazon price. ($199 msrp) so I thought it was a stellar deal. Otherwise, I'd go with the 105 pedals (were out of stock at Nashbar at the time of the sale).

Selling Sunny Fitness spin bike, with Wahoo cadence sensor and Shimano clipless pedals. Total cost to me was about $400, it's all only about a year old and I haven't really used it that much (I much prefer running and rowing). It's a great setup for a poor man's Peloton experience. Looking for $300 but open to offers.

These have done the job for me, I've been riding them pretty hard for about 6 months. The spindles/bearings on the pedals were pretty clunky, but smoothed out once I rode them for a while.

If your pedals are already compatible, here is the link for straps only

Good catch! Those are not stock pedals, they're these mountain bike pedals from Amazon

If you put wider tires on, you will raise the bike by some millimeters, plus add some more comfort. You could also use thinner height aluminum pedals. https://www.amazon.com/BONMIXC-Mountain-Pedals-Cycling-Bearing/dp/B01DETTSTW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542659643&sr=8-3&keywords=bonmixc+mountain+bike+pedals

Looking at Flat pedals considering a few different models and need advice on which one is the best.

SHIMANO SAINT

CRANK BROTHERS 50/50

CHESTER PLATFORM


XPEDO SPRY

Bonmixc Mountain Bike Pedals

Origin8 Ultim8 Slimline Platform Pedals

The last two are a bit less expensive but they look decent. I am aware that typically you get what you pay for. I've seen the Shimano Saint in store and the CrankBro in store. Xpedo SPRY seems to have reviews too

Here is a cheap good replacement set http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Ultralight-Pedals-Straps-Silver/dp/B002BW3HM8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416423606&sr=8-1&keywords=avenir+light+pedals&pebp=1416423609065

The A530, M324, A600, PDT400, M545, and M647 are some good options here. Some are one-sided SPD, some have combination platform-clips on both sides.

> You could rig up toe clips which work with sandals.

No, I am so not a toe clip guy. Been there, done that. I have an MTB flat pedal on there now. I do a lot of off and on road, so I like the wideness of the pedal and super comfortable on them. In many ways, don't want to lose it, but I ride enough and knowledgeable enough to know that the constant shifting around is causing me to get my knees out of position. I put a lot of miles in and know enough now. And I have been locked in before with a Shimano PD-A530 before, although it has been a few years, and realized then that my mechanics were just much smoother and natural when locked in from what I remember.

> If you walk around your home with SPD shoes on you will destroy your floors.

Oh I know that...I was talking more about why then what I was hoping to do. I just want a SPD shoe that I can be in when I am out and about all day riding or when I start to tour, I will be in them majority of the time. When I walk around camp or whatever, I can use flip flops, regular sandals, or light second pair of shoes of whatever I decide to eventually carry season dependent.

mks rmx are my favorites.

Nice! As a newer rider myself, some big advice, get some new pedals, it makes the bike feel much better for very cheap. I always had a problem with my feet slipping off of the factory ones.

I use these fooker pedals
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D66NDS3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-DK0CbP00MA22

They're very affordable and they're half the price of Raceface Chester's but they're the exact same mold.

Edit: unless of course you have no issue with the pedals you have. They just look like the factory ones and those are rarely comparable to aftermarket pedals.

A compromise is to add these strapless clips to flat pedals; they help a little by keeping your toe in place, and cost negligible.

Zefal "Cristophe Mountain Bicycle Half Toe Clips, S/M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO9K9S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_rqNFDbFJBR4D6

I like raceface chester, have them on my hybrid and mountain bike. KevCentral said the fooker are very similar at $21 https://www.amazon.com/FOOKER-Composite-Mountain-High-Strength-Bikesflat/dp/B07D66NDS3/ref=sr_1_3?crid=16BYY2BXMSM3G&keywords=fooker+mountain+bike+pedals&qid=1562610298&s=gateway&sprefix=fooker+%2Caps%2C140&sr=8-3

People seem to like these www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00933WSTQ

There are also some knockoff chesters on Amazon. They perform pretty much the same, but are significantly cheaper. https://www.amazon.com/FOOKER-Composite-Mountain-High-Strength-Bikesflat/dp/B07L5RF5CW

http://www.amazon.com/MKS-GR-9-Platform-Pedals-Silver/dp/B001GSMRQ0/ref=sr_1_10?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1416955974&sr=1-10&keywords=mks+pedals

My personal favorite platform pedals. The long body makes for a really stable platform, and it's plenty grippy too. There's a little tab on the back for you to flip the pedal and you can install cages on them too. Only complaint is that they're not the best pedals when it's raining.

Sure this one http://amzn.com/B000XNXUUG

Having long ridden my road bike with shimanos, I did the same as /u/AnieParis. Deltas may be fine, but I've got 10 years of muscle memory...

The road bike has the fancy super light (read: expensive) DuraAce ones... but for the peloton, I just got the low-end SPD-SL's. No issues putting them on the bike, and I much prefer their lower stack-height and general feel.

[Here's] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BW3HM8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) some pedals that I purchased recently. They're probably on the lower end of pedals out there, but they've worked well for me so far.

Kona Wah-Wahs

RaceFace Chesters

One-Up Composites

All ~$50 or less, you won't be disappointed with any of them

I use the Shimano PD-M424 pedal on my commuter. It has clips on both sides, but also has a large enough platform that riding in regular shoes is not problem. The inner part of the pedal moves to be flat with the outer cage.


http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-PD-M424-Pedal-16-Inch-Silver/dp/B000F5EG50/ref=pd_sim_sg_6

Fooker MTB pedals on Amazon. Race face Chester copies $22

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D66NDS3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_pe7rDb3FB91K2

Cheap amazon specials see below. I have a set of white SPDs for cross.

FOOKER MTB Bike Pedal Nylon 3 Bearing Composite 9/30 Mountain Bike Pedals High-Strength Non-Slip Bicycle Pedals Surface for Road BMX MTB Fixie Bikesflat Bike https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D66NDS3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FaLODbZXHS449

this is what I have and this is what I want.

The only pedals that I have ever used are Road bike clip-less (specifically, the Shimano SPD-SL type pedals and cleats) so take this with a grain of salt, but from what I've gathered from reading this subreddit road pedals give you slightly more power transfer (when your clipped in its a bit more rigid), but do not plan on walking any kind of major distance in them (anything greater than about 25ft).

With MTB clipless you can find some shoes with recessed cleats, so walking in them is no problem. They also have some MTB "dual-platform" pedals that you can flip over and have a flat surface like a regular pedal like this.

Bottom line is if you plan on riding your bike to do errands, go to school, etc and you don't want to carry a second pair of shoes then MTB clipless is the way to go; if you plan on going on long distance rides for recreation/sport and don't plan on stopping much go for road clipless.

If you aren't riding in bad weather, it won't matter much. But I am going to leave this alternate suggestion here anyway.

For sure. These are a perfectly solid pedal. Not top end, but very far from low end. They'd last many years.

https://www.amazon.com/FOOKER-Composite-Mountain-High-Strength-Bikesflat/dp/B07D66NDS3/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=mtb%2Bpedals&qid=1562824639&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&th=1

Is this similar to what you are describing?

http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Clip-Strap-Large-X-Large/dp/B002BW3AD4/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1407360739&sr=1-3&keywords=toe+clip+strap

maybe some pedals with toe clips?


http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Ultralight-Pedals-Straps-Silver/dp/B002BW3HM8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395619151&sr=8-1&keywords=pedal+toe+clip

I would use these instead of the second link. They are (or were at least) 1 gram heavier than the xt pedals and constructed out of better/stronger materials than the ones listed above and the price is still reasonable.

Fooker aka race face Chester clones
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D66NDS3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_AEZIDbBS0GNKH

FOOKER MTB Bike Pedal Nylon Composite 9/16 Mountain Bike Pedals High-Strength Non-Slip Bicycle Pedals Surface for Road BMX MTB Fixie Bikes Needle Roller Bearing (Black 3 Bearings) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D66NDS3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5pSSBbC7K3K4T

FOOKER MTB Bike Pedal Nylon 3 Bearing Composite 9/30 Mountain Bike Pedals High-Strength Non-Slip Bicycle Pedals Surface for Road BMX MTB Fixie Bikesflat Bike https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D66NDS3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_b6i0CbMNRZDBX

I have a brand new blue pair I can sell you for $20

https://www.amazon.com/RockBros-Lightweight-Mountain-Bicycle-Platform/dp/B07CWRQQGD/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_468_lp_t_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=0614JWWRDSNB4WHWBEF5

Get a set of these Fooker pedals off Amazon.

They come in tons of colors and are basically identical to Raceface Chesters but cost less than half. I have a set of both and cannot tell a difference.

suggestions on a cheap seat??

how about this for a saddle ? http://www.citygrounds.com/crew-bike-co/crew-bike-co-street-saddle-w-crmo-rails-3772

and these for straps http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00933WSTQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

and these for pedals http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EMYUNC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

A lot of folks use the campus style spd pedals. I do not recommend these, though. The weight of the flat side of the pedal keeps it facing down, so when you're riding with regular shoes, you have the flip the pedals every time you want to get on the flat side after stepping off.

If I were in your situation, I would go with this style spd instead which gives you access to the outer cage and spd on both sides.

edit - as u/Robware points out below, I have the first pedal backwards. The weight of the pedal keeps the flat side available and the spd side obscured.

There's the Shimano M424. I don't know how well they ride with regular shoes, but it's probably the closest thing to what you're looking for.

I googled SPDs and these are not SPDs. They are http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Ultralight-Pedals-Straps-Silver/dp/B002BW3HM8

I told my mom I was looking at getting new pedals to replace the stock pedals and she just went out and got these from a LBS. I really liked the fit and the fact that the pedal itself had a lot of grip even without the straps but it looks like they were not of the greatest quality. I guess I'll try what you said about about repacking the pedal but when I screwed it back onto the spindle this morning there looked to be plenty of grease still on the spindle...

RaceFace Chester Pedal Turquoise, One Size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XKV7VH5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NPzBCbZVPCRZN

Nah, def need the turqouise raceface chester pedals. FOOKER also makes a similar set with a bit darker teal. I own the cookers and my feet stick to them on my gravel bike.

Cool! I have the same pedals. I kind of miss my plain old PD-M450s though.

Definitely flat platform. I ended up ordering these, but there's still several hours to cancel and order something else before it'd ship if you have any other reccomendations. I wasn't really interested in spikes because I didn't want to tear up my shoes or shins.