Reddit mentions: The best bike tubes

> So, as far as the wheel go, you're nsay that we should be fine with whatever aluminum wheel I can find online, since most wheels can handle the weight?

Pretty much. Wheels can sustain hundreds of pounds each, so you're splitting that weight across three, you'll be fine.

Something like this would be fine, but you don't really need to buy new. Any box-section alloy wheel will serve your purposes quite nicely ... survey your local used bike dealers, craigslist, etc...

Be more concerned about the health of the hubs than the weight of the wheels. I'd look for a cup/cone bearing hub. Folks looking to trade a little bit of durability for reduced rolling resistance will often remove one ball bearing and use very light grease, and make sure that the preload on the bearing cone is the minimum that will prevent any lash.

> if the Pro 4 Service Course is only mid-level when it comes to rolling resistance, what's a tire off the top if your head that you think would be a better choice?

The Continental Grand Prix TT is rated #1 in terms of rolling resistance at only 9.9 Watts/tire at 120psi. This blows away the field and everything in its price class. Pretty reasonably priced too. To get the most out of a good low rolling resistance tire, you should couple it with a latex tube. These are slightly more porous than "normal" butyl tubes so you'll need to re-pressure them daily, but they roll significantly better, especially when paired with a very supple tire.

Now, keep in mind that a tire like this is also delicate, so it'd be a good idea to have at least one replacement on hand in case of a sidewall tear or something due to road hazards.

If you'd like to choose a slightly more durable tire (like for testing, etc...) you should get a set of Continental Grand Prix 4000s ii. This is still a great rolling tire, but trades a few watts for durability.

OK, I'm thinking we do this in stages.

Stage 1 which will allow you to get it riding now and will be perfectly capable of a 4-5mi round trip.

Cable Cutters ($20) stick to the better units but probably no need to go for Park Tool. BBB make a nice one, although I currently have an IceToolz cable cutter because I can't find my good ones.
For the brakes you will need a 4th hand cable stretcher like this Pedros ($17) unit which is a third the cost of a Park Tool unit.
Will also need cables, easiest way is to grab a DIY Jagwire ($24) kit which has both brake and shift cables.
These Vittoria Zaffiro tyres are a good compromise of value, durability and performance. I use these a lot and they're on my training bike. Will also need tubes, and being a commuter, flats are not your friend so these Schwalbe tubes are a good idea. ($60)
Arundel cork bar tape ($20)
A new chain for your bike is probably the only way forward, and this KMC is perfect ($6)
The brake pads on your calipers will now doubt be old, and also a 30yo pad compound, so not overly efficient. Would strongly recommend these Kool Stop Continental brake pads as a starting point before we get to Phase 2 ($10)

Grease for the Bottom Bracket and Headset (and wheel hubs) is also needed, but there's absolutely no need to buy bike-specific grease, so this Valvoline tub as an example would be ideal ($10) .
The chain needs to be lubed, and in dry conditions I like Finish Line dry lube. Others will have their own preferences, but this is a good starting point.

Also should think about replacing the saddle, but this is very subjective and not something that can be recommended in terms of which saddle to buy. Maybe scoot around Craigslist for your area and see what comes up..

In terms of learning the skills, the Park Tool video channel is surprisingly good although heavy on product placement and endorsement although this is to be expected. There are lots of alternatives to Park Tool tools though, including Pedro's, BBB and others. None of the skills associated with your era of bike are all that difficult, and refurbishing this to be usable in your context is completely feasible in your garage.

May also want to consider buying one of the entry-level bike toolkits like this tool kit as a starting point ($40) although this is just an example however is the same kit as others sell just rebranded.

So phase 1 (not including the tool kit) is about $160-ish and watching a bunch of videos.

sorry for the essay, but once I started it just sort of kept going. Phase 2 is removal of existing driveline, and upgrading to a Shimano 2x8sp indexed group with modern dual pivot calipers and modern alloy wheels. But we can cover that later.

IN a city far far away, once upon a time and very early in the morning before everyone woke up, I used to don my armour, mount my trusty steed and ride forth! I would take the curves, conquer the hills till eventually I arrived at the cave of the beast. With my wallet drawn I would advance upon the lair of the bagel beast! battle was fierce, for there were many bagels! Sesame! Salted! Cinnamon raisin! Multitudes of their brethren for 79c each. Less by the dozen. The math never quite worked out. How could it be easier to slay many than to slay one!

It boggled the mind, but my wallet didn't care. My wallet struck true, gathering a dozen, still warm, still breathing out heat into the cool california air! I stuffed their fresh bake carcasses into a bag making sure that I had also remembered to gather their cream cheese blood. For some, it was lactose gold.

And with my bounty strapped to the back of my steed, I would ride to the other den of the evil starbucks to secure the appropriate gravy with which I could return a triumphant bearer of vittles and carbs. I was lauded in my village as I would stop at neighbours and drop off my hard earned slaughter. Then I would tuck my steed away, silence my chorus of angels that serenaded me from my personal communication device. I would creep back into my domicile and placed the remains of the bagel beasts upon a platter still warm. The cream cheese blood slipped into the fridge to ensure it's continued edibility.

And the smell would waft through our cramped quarters, rousing the head of our household, ripping apart the cheesy underbelly of one of the beasts before he triumphantly marched off to face his king.

But we have moved, and my trusty steed was injured by the carelessness of peons hands. They MANHANDLES HER! They WOUNDED HER! The valve to her innards is broken, unable to contain her air so necessary to keep her moving and alive! But I have found a transplant for her. It's under $15. Imagine! The solution to what ails her. It's an uncommon part for most people steeds as she's :cough: A little one the... robust side. So Prisaneify, I need to get my steed's inner tire transplanted. She gets me everywhere since I do not drive, to where I cannot walk. To the farmers market, to the pool in the summer. She has waited patiently in my garage this cold northern winter, her first time braving these cold winds and snow as opposed to the climes and sun of southern California. But the snow has receded and she whimpers in my garage. Her companion steed answers to my spawn is begging to be turned loose but cannot, until the transplant.

OKay, all fancy story - which is totally true and how we played it in our family when I'd come home with bagels and the kid would want to know what i had been doing - the movers screwed up my bike, bending the valve and all attempts to fix it failed. So it needs to be replaced, but it's an uncommon size. It's how I get around when my husband is at work. Post office, grocery store, to the pool, geocache with the kid, to neighbours. Rain or snow, I'm going somewhere on it all the time. Bonus is that it's 14 dollars and thus someone else can also have a need fulfilled.

Slautes you for the consideration and eases back off to the depths of reddit: Also, sorry for the length!

What u/phatbrasil said.
The reason a neckweight is the best, is that your positive buoyancy comes from your lungs. The rest of your body is neutral. So the weight to counteract that positive buoyancy should be placed close to the lungs, or else your position in the water will be skewed.
If you have perfect, neutral buoyancy, but skewed, you will be correcting your position with every stroke. that's a waste of energy, and one more thing on your mind. And the whole point of freediving is to be able to forget EVERYTHING but the feeling of total freedom :-)

Pro tip: when you fill the inner tube with lead shot, use a tube for mountain bike tires ( http://www.amazon.com/Venzo-Mountain-Inner-Tubes-26x1-5/dp/B006WRVY9Q)
That should be able to hold at least 2 kg.
If you're looking for more weight, either find a bigger tube, or do this:
when you've poured the maximum amount of lead shot into the tube, close the end you've poured into as well ( with a zip tie, or a clip of sorts) Then start massaging the lead shot towards the other end. some use compressed air to blow up the tube, and then the lead shot just falls into place, and you can pour in some more. I've managed to fill 4,5 kg's of leads shot into a mountain bike tire tube.
Only remember to use some duct tape to stabilize the tube afterwards, or else it will break eventually. And you dont want to spend an hour picking up lead shot from the floor of the local swimming pool. (although it was good apnea exercise :-) )

> I definitely agree with the others that recommend a hand gauge. I have owned a few different gauges and the SKS Airchecker version 2 is my favorite for cross. Topeak Smartgauge D2 is also really good, but only shows 1 psi increments. Not helpful if you care about half a psi. But maybe it's not worth caring about half a psi.

My favorite gauge. I had one of those fancy digital gauges, can’t remember which, but I found it to be incredibly finicky and unreliable (this is not a review, just my own experience). So I bought a 30 psi Accu-Gage and I’ve used it the last 4 years. As a nice bonus, it’s much cheaper than the digital gauges but reliable and basically indestructible. Anyway, not trying to say not to use a digital gauge. Just use some kind of dedicated low pressure gauge, not the gauge on your floor pump, and if you’re price sensitive, know that the analog options are inexpensive and really good.

"Hiplok Gold" is a good lock to get. The lock clips around your waist (it is adjustable) so it will not damage your bike or take extra space on the bike.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hiplok-Gold-Wearable-Bike-Security-Anti-Theft-Chain-Lock-Black/361941914798?epid=1838061535&hash=item54456b54ae:g:YuwAAOSwf4BcohCI

Hiplok make several versions of the Hiplok - The best one they make is the "Gold" because the chain links are 10mm thick and the shackle is 12mm thick.

Our advice would be to always use at least 2 locks (same advice as djhurryupnbuy) so you can secure both wheels & the frame to a fixed object (lamp post, bike rack etc) or you could use something like this for the non locked wheel:

https://hexlox.com/collections/single-hexlox

We use the "Mr Tuffy" (4XL) tire liners between the tires & tubes to help stop punctures:

https://www.amazon.com/Mr-Tuffy-Bike-4-1-5-0-4X-Large/dp/B00SM1OW5S/ref=pd_cp_468_3?pd_rd_w=PdK7t&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=ZNT38DCP3NNZC58DTQ73&pd_rd_r=2130f3f9-a96c-4abc-9bdc-100d08fa34d0&pd_rd_wg=h9Tsw&pd_rd_i=B00SM1OW5S&psc=1&refRID=ZNT38DCP3NNZC58DTQ73

Happy riding and welcome to The Squad!

​

(We are not an official UK dealer)

New England here:

Bike: Dedicated winter bike with sealed cables, 32h box-section wheels with 28c tires. Staying on top of bike maintenance is super important because stopping for a mechanical can be downright dangerous if you're riding in remote areas.

Some people I know ride with thorn-proof tubes in the winter because they want a nearly zero percent chance of flats. They are really heavy!

https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Thorn-Resistant-Presta-Valve/dp/B00QU9C1O8

Dress: This is person-specific. Obviously layering is key.

More key is having more zippered layers up top so you can unzip when going uphill. Keeping sweating minimal is the goal. Sometimes it's unavoidable. On a recent 5 hour ride, I carried an extra thermal baselayer and pair of socks to change at a midway stop. 10/10 - would recommend.

Also key are chemical handwarmers on top of your shoe, underneath the shoe cover (I have a set of zipperless neoprene booties that are the most durable set I've owned.)

As nerdy as they are, I use Bar Mitts when it gets below freezing. I've been able to use very light gloves with them, which provides much more dexterity for shifting or grabbing food than heavy gloves.

Bonus pro-tip: Don't forget about hydration when out in the cold! It's really important for staying warm.

You should give /u/sillygirlsarah one of these because she mentioned needing them a while ago, and it'll be bike season soon. She's a super nice, super generous lady and she should get something she needs, because she's always giving to others.

Thanks for the contest!

Edit: I was trying to bring hers up to 15, but she doesn't have anything small that would get there without going over. This Is the closest, but it's 12 cents over. On an unrelated note, I have one of those, and it works surprisingly well.

I got a ton of bikes but my test build was a small folding bike I was given.

https://www.reddit.com/r/ebikes/comments/d536sb/my_shop_hopper_giant_halfway/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf

I then bought a 250w front hub motor from Amazon

YOSE POWER 20'' Front Wheel Electric Bicycle Motor Kit with LCD Display E-Bike Conversion kit 36V250W https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07MTX98NQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pQjGDb1MSAYA5

An extension cable for the pedal assist

color tree Extension Cable for Bafang Electric Bike Motor Bicycle Ebike Mid Drive Conversion Kits Expand Gear Sensor/Thumb Throttle/Brake Lever levers Waterproof https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07N78B175/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nRjGDb5P75MKW

A bag to hold the electrical components

BTR 5 Litre BLACK Handlebar... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00RTL2XIA?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

A holder for the battery

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F273945584171

A battery

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F352784525406

Some new tubes

Kenda AV Tube, Grey, Size... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003WF24VS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

And tyres

Schwalbe Knobby Active Line Twin Skin SBC Wired Tyre-Black, 20 x 2.00 Inch https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00E7RWADW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.UjGDbKMFVGR5

Pretty stoked on how it’s turned out!

Probably 3-4 hours in total to build and about £400 for the conversion.

Yeah, it's torn right at the base of the valve and a little inward. I actually have a few patches from my wife's bike but they wouldn't be able to get around the valve.

This self-sealing tube looks like it has a lot of good reviews. It sounds like the goo does make a huge mess and you need to keep the tire placed with the valve at the top of the tire after a puncture or else you won't be able to reinflate the tire due to blockage from the goo. But for $7 shipped I think it'd be worth a shot: http://www.amazon.com/Slime-Smart-Schrader-Bicycle-1-75-2-125/dp/B000ENMLFK/

Road bikes are great lighter the easier it is to ride, it might be worth getting slime tyres to stop punctures, I have a triangle bag that goes inside the frame that I put a small pump and a multi tool in + my lunch on a weekday.

I would recommend two thick D locks to use when parking, I thread the 'D' through the bag buckles and keep the keys and lock in the Bag.

for weather gear you need a rain layer warm layer and sweat layer to keep out the cold. waterproof gloves, goggles or eye protection.

Fenders would be a good choice as well to stop mud flicking up.

Don't get a mountain bike, really not very easy to ride and heavy. Also lights

Yeah, you want it tight. I like Schwalbe because of the removable core. I did this on a CX bike and it works really well down to about 20/25psi (front/rear @ 90kg), after which it starts to burp consistently. YMMV.

It also helps if you have access to an air compressor or a pump like this. I borrowed a friend's and it worked really well.

There are repair tubes which are not a closed ring and should allow you to change the tube without remvoing the wheel (my English fails me for a more accurate description atm). I also forgot their name.

Basically you pull the tire out of the rim bead, cut the old tube in half and put the new one in. Hardly ideal, but it should allow for fixing.

Okay here we go: http://www.gaadi.de

Hope you speak German m8. That site is not available in English. Also available on German Amazon: http://www.amazon.de/Fahrradschlauch-Französisches-Sclaverand-10317018-111/dp/B00FB0RESU

next edit: Another link, this time with international shipping: https://www.rosebikes.com/article/gaadi-butyl-atb-inner-tube-dunlop-valve-47-mm-for-622635-x-40-47--700-x-38-45-c/aid:717384

http://smile.amazon.com/Slime-Smart-Schrader-Bicycle-1-75-2-125/dp/B000ENMLFK/ref=sr_1_3?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1413251123&sr=1-3&keywords=bike+tube thats the product i'm talking about. If youre new to cycling I would recommend taking the wheel on and off and replacing the tube a few times before you ever attempt to take this route. Changing a tube is super easy, but If I didn't know how to do it the last place I would want to learn is the side of the road. The goo wheel might help, but having general bike knowledge is going to help even more.

Tubes that come with Slime sealant inside them, like these. https://www.amazon.com/Slime-30045-Self-Sealing-Schrader-1-75-2-125/dp/B000ENMLFK/ Never used their tubes, but I've had good results with putting Slime in other tubes. It's great against small thorns.

I doubt you blew a tire (more likely just the tube), but if you're looking for new tires then I recommend Continental Gatorskins. Since I sorted out my rimtape issue I haven't gotten a puncture, and my local roads are awfull. As for innertubes, i don't think that it really matters what innertubes you get - I thought it would be good to spend more and get Continental tubes but at the end of the day they still punctured as easy as some cheapo ones from my lbs.

I always bring Tire Levers, a new tube, a bike pump, wallet, & phone (I personally ride with a CamelBak, but you could easily fit this in a small underseat pouch). Plan A is fix the flat. Plan B is call a cab. Although I purchased my stuff at LBS, here's some amazon links:

Tire Levers: http://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-Tire-Lever-Set/dp/B000BR1182/
Pump: http://www.amazon.com/Lezyne-Micro-Floor-Drive-HPG/dp/B005UZO7RM/
Tubes (be sure and get your size!): http://www.amazon.com/Continental-Presta-Valve-Black-20-25cc/dp/B0068FAXTY

So I got my first flat on my way to work this morning, woefully unprepared, I was lucky to be about a half mile from home. After about a month of commuting to work I finally had a breakdown. it has been holding up well for about 100 miles on NYC streets on my new diamondback century sport (2017)

My tire says (26-622, 700x26C) https://imgur.com/a/pJoAQ

can anyone explain why it's impossible to find a bike tube that fits? I have googled for an hour and found some informstion yet they still sell bike tubes as "26x1-1.5in" "26x 2-2.5 in" and I'm getting frustrated they do this nonsense. I believe the 26C translates to 26mm and about 1.02 inches, so a 26x 1-1.5in bike tube would fit?

I bought this tube because I think it will fit but it's probably a bit big
Continental 60mm Presta Valve Tube, Black, 700 x 25-32cc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008ZTM9AW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mXSlzbFT5PHHR

I think will fit and I got a mini pump so next time I can fix it and get back on my commute.

Thanks!

Almost any rim/tire combo can be made tubeless. Save some money and buy the tape on it's own: http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Film-Strapping-Tape-8896/dp/B00QVIBIMO
You just need valves and sealant now.

If that doesn't work, go the sliced 20" tube route. Either should work fine, the tape is a more elegant solution.

That is identical to my commute. I did two things. First I installed slime tubes, this has been pricesless. Second I have a spare tube and tire lever in a bag behind my seat. Plus I have a hand pump mounted to the bike.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ENQRBY/ref=sxts_bia_sr_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3182441022&pd_rd_wg=fqBOO&pf_rd_r=XHT9VDYA6RZGCTXZES8B&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B000ENQRBY&pd_rd_w=4gLGf&pf_rd_i=slime+tube&pd_rd_r=6D9Y9XVHPFZ0KYWXJSD1&ie=UTF8&qid=1505931612&sr=1

https://www.amazon.com/DigHeath-Portable-Lightweight-Aluminum-Pump-Fit/dp/B01M2D5IT0/ref=sr_1_3?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1505931633&sr=1-3&keywords=hand+bike+pump

This seat bag isn't the biggest but I like the quick release feature for when I park outside. I remove this and the hand pump then throw in my bag.
https://www.amazon.com/MOREZONE-Bicycle-Saddle-Cycling-Rainproof/dp/B01LPJHHQY/ref=sr_1_14?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1505931753&sr=1-14&keywords=bicycle+seat+bag

I'm 175 and ride 85 psi in front and 120 in back (I should be going 130, but I don't like exceeding the max). You might try 120. This will mostly just prevent pinch flats (snakebites), so it might not help any.

Thicker 700c tubes. There's probably other/better brands out there, that was the first one I found with a quick search.

You'll want a normal tube as a spare, though. These things are huge!

Because they're heavy and thick, it's often better (though more expensive) to upgrade your tire (Gatorskins and Gatorskin Hardshell for example) instead, for better overall rolling resistance.

Buy some good tyre levers (I love the Continental or Michelin) like the ones pictured here:

https://www.amazon.com/Continental-28-700x20-25c-Bicycle-Inner/dp/B001EIE288/ref=sr_1_27?keywords=continental+tire+lever&qid=1567026518&s=gateway&sr=8-27

And then you can get the $2 puncture repair kits with patches and rubber cement. You'll also need a pump. Mini for on the bike and floor (optional) for at home.

not digital, but i like this one - it's presta and you can release pressure until you get the value you want (by pressing the button) while keeping it on the valve. it also has a decent sized range (you can easily get to within 1 psi).

(actually, i just looked, and mine - same make - goes to 60psi, but that one seems better for mtb)

(also, i find this post kinda weird - like saying "hey guys i know all about the latest trends but look at them noobs")

I've installed the mr tuffy tire liner after getting 4 flats in 1 week. I live in LA and we have the little spiky thorns that cut straight through the thin Kenda tires that come on the z1.

I got this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SM1OW5S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It honestly was easy to install, and was long enough to wrap around twice, which I think would just offer more protection. No flats so far, and supposedly weighs less than slime sealants or armored tubes.

I heard kinda bad things online about it moving around and such, but maybe that's for larger wheel size, and smaller tires, like a street bike? On the fat tires it goes in really easy.

Okay, so with $200, assuming I was doing the work:

Wrap handlebars - $11.53 (sweet dark red, cause the red on there looks awesome already)
Cheap 700c wheels from co-op - $20? (Talk with them about the gearing to see if the range is the same, or if you want tighter range or whatever, they probably have a few sets there with somewhat different gear ranges on the rear)
Saddle from co-op - $5-10
Tubes/tires - $45 (tires, tubes)
Derailleur cables - $7 (Shimano, here)
Brake cables - $10.39 (Shimano, here)
Brake levers - $22.53 (Tektro RL340)
Brakes - $62 - (Tektro 539 rear, front)
5-speed chain - 7.98 (here)

Then I'd try to get pedals and a cheap but aluminum quill stem, handlebars, and seatpost from the co-op. Depending on where you are, you may be able to get all for $20 or less. Functional new parts suggestions: (not guaranteed to fit. These have all sorts of different diameters over the years/models, so you need to know what you have/need. Handlebars, Seatpost, stem.)

OPI nail polish is the best quality if you decide to go that route . Or you can cover it up with a top tube protector.

https://www.amazon.com/Green-Guru-Gear-Upcycled-Protector/dp/B00A8JQVDI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=bike+top+tube+protector&qid=1568159663&s=gateway&sprefix=bike+top+tube+&sr=8-1

https://www.amazon.com/All-Mountain-Style-Honeycomb-Impact/dp/B00PWUPL4I/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=bike+top+tube+protector&qid=1568159663&s=gateway&sprefix=bike+top+tube+&sr=8-2

Yes thank you. Green Guru Top Tube Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8JQVDI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ceoQwbXD717BM

https://youtu.be/tkxU6a2esIA

Tristan also made a tutorial with the shop in Cali.a step by step,now I just do it myself and buy a couple of tubes on amazon.

Mongoose MG78457-6 Fat Tire Tube, 20 x 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CGDVXL8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q5D1DbWRH0TB7

I also put slime in my tires to plug any holes and carry a bike patch kit with me.Its my daily,had three flats due to construction sites, staples and nails everywhere.I avoid that area now but carrying this stuff and an air pump helps.good luck!

Thank you, so much for the response!

So, all we need are these four things, correct?

Tire

Wheel

Cassette - What size should I go with? Does this also mean that I need to put the chain back on, every time we swap out her wheel/tire?

Tube

thx. I just ordered a spare tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CGDVXL8/?cv_ct_id=amzn1.idea.7UDB61NV3OQO&cv_ct_pg=storefront&cv_ct_wn=aip-storefront&ref=exp_cov_teamdominican_dp_vv_d

ABSOLUTELY

Get one of these babies

Stick one or two of these appropriately sized puppies in there

Keep one of these suckas on your person when out there.

And should something like this shit go down, youre gonna want some of these life savers.

Oh and lemme go 'head and save them fingers

Heres a quick lil video on how fix a flat

If that video doesnt suffice, we have the man Sheldon Brown

This one: Meiser Presta-Valve Dial Gauge with Pressure Relief: 30psi https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XISIK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3H20DbVCBF11P

Here

Are you riding off road a lot?

Try the tubes with the goo in them:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000ENMLFK

Also consider the belt style protectors:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0066DD56Q

I did both and haven't had a flat tire since. Plus, always ride with a spare tube and CO2 inflator.

Similar for me, but I went with the 30 psi range.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A8JQVDI there's plenty more options too.

I use this - https://www.amazon.com/Meiser-Presta-Valve-Gauge-Pressure-Relief/dp/B004XISIK4

The tube size will be a range for example, this will fit your tyre as will this one. You also need to match the valve type, and the length of the valve in some cases.

Edit. Grammar and English version

Tube

Levers

Frame pump (or alternatively CO2 inflator)

Patch kit (optional)

Saddle bag

Would advise against that pump and tool kit.

Here's the tools you should get:

https://www.amazon.com/Pedro-Tire-Lever-Yellow-Pair/dp/B008FOMD6M/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1483755226&sr=1-2&keywords=pedros+tire+lever

https://www.amazon.com/Pedros-142724-Trixie-Fixie-Tool/dp/B001Q221GM/ref=sr_1_7?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1483755245&sr=1-7&keywords=lockring+tool

https://www.amazon.com/Continental-Presta-Valve-Black-20-25cc/dp/B0068FAXTY/ref=sr_1_5?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1483755280&sr=1-5&keywords=bicycle%2Btube&th=1&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Topeak-Road-Morph-Bike-Gauge/dp/B000FI6YOS/ref=sr_1_1?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1483755338&sr=1-1&keywords=topeak+hand+pump

which puts you at $52 for tools.

For a helmet I'd look at a Giro Foray or a Specialized Echelon

I am a die-hard supporter of slime tubes. I had the same tubes for 18 months with the occasional flat. I finally replaced them only because they were so old I was worried they'd just disintegrate one day. Amazon Link

This. Try and get a cheap-ish tire pressure gauge to make accurate changes to your tires. I bought one on amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004XISIK4/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1527479651&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=meiser+presta+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=51VlanwBIXL&ref=plSrch

Agreed. I have a Karate Monkey with plus tires and couldn't live without my little gage: Meiser Presta-Valve Dial Gauge... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XISIK4?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Start at something high (20f/30r? Others may have a better starting point) and slowly drop it by 1 or even 1/2 psi every ride on the same trail.

When the tires start to feel too squirmy, go up a bit and there you go. Also, remember that one tire can feel squirmy while the other is okay to drop some more. I'm can run much lower pressures on the front tire.