(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best bike wheels & accessories

> So, as far as the wheel go, you're nsay that we should be fine with whatever aluminum wheel I can find online, since most wheels can handle the weight?

Pretty much. Wheels can sustain hundreds of pounds each, so you're splitting that weight across three, you'll be fine.

Something like this would be fine, but you don't really need to buy new. Any box-section alloy wheel will serve your purposes quite nicely ... survey your local used bike dealers, craigslist, etc...

Be more concerned about the health of the hubs than the weight of the wheels. I'd look for a cup/cone bearing hub. Folks looking to trade a little bit of durability for reduced rolling resistance will often remove one ball bearing and use very light grease, and make sure that the preload on the bearing cone is the minimum that will prevent any lash.

> if the Pro 4 Service Course is only mid-level when it comes to rolling resistance, what's a tire off the top if your head that you think would be a better choice?

The Continental Grand Prix TT is rated #1 in terms of rolling resistance at only 9.9 Watts/tire at 120psi. This blows away the field and everything in its price class. Pretty reasonably priced too. To get the most out of a good low rolling resistance tire, you should couple it with a latex tube. These are slightly more porous than "normal" butyl tubes so you'll need to re-pressure them daily, but they roll significantly better, especially when paired with a very supple tire.

Now, keep in mind that a tire like this is also delicate, so it'd be a good idea to have at least one replacement on hand in case of a sidewall tear or something due to road hazards.

If you'd like to choose a slightly more durable tire (like for testing, etc...) you should get a set of Continental Grand Prix 4000s ii. This is still a great rolling tire, but trades a few watts for durability.

It sounds like I may have a bit more milder CP than you (insert normal disclaimer here: I don't know you nor do I know your exact abilities) but I never had the balance to ride a normal bicycle.

For awhile (in my teens when I was a yougin) I used stabilizing wheels like these on a normal bike. It's a fairly cheap option (if you already have a bike) and if you can sit on a regular bike (with like the kickstand down) they should work for you. Be noted, I know the set I had was a complete nightmare to install.

Another option is trikes. Thankfully trikes are much more mainstream now so can even buy them at places like walmart

Of course there are the more expensive options like electric trikes if you feel like you will need some assistance peddling, recumbent bikes if you want an alternate position, or even hand bikes if you feel like your arms may be the more stronger limb.

:)

Thank you!! We had a lot of fun! The best part is riding it around now though. Still got some work to do to make it great, but the fact that it works and we were able to get it together in an evening is awesome to me.

https://www.amazon.com/JAXPETY-1000W-Electric-Bicycle-Conversion/dp/B075SDDFDV

That's a link to the kit, but it now says "currently unavailable". I was weary of a $150 kit from (I'm sure) China, but it works fine. I expect almost any option on Amazon with a reasonably high rating is a safe bet. Plus, with Amazon's return policies...just don't throw away the box for a while.

So, so glad you got some enjoyment from the video!!!

Hi! I'm trying to figure out a solution to a problem I've been having. I'm trying do a little cycling both for recreation and to lose a little weight. The problem is that I'm already a little heavy. I have bent the wheel on my bike every summer for the last three years. This year, it was the first time I got on the damn thing. I'm tired of paying to have the thing fixed and I was wondering about getting a heavy duty wheel instead. I'm only 275lbs, so heavy, but I don't think I should be bending wheels like I am. When I called my local bike shop they told me that I would have to have one custom built and it would be $$$. I don't know enough, and while I've been doing some reading on this topic, I'm hoping someone more knowledgeable will be able to say if that's true.

From what I've seen online, I could easily just buy a heavier duty wheel and slap it on my bike. Does that make sense? I was looking at possibly something like this. Obviously I'll need to make sure the size is correct and all that jazz, but I'm hoping someone can be like, "Yes this is doable" or "No you really do need a custom build."

Suggestion #1 - find your local bike co-op, wheel your junk in there, let them help you.

Suggestion #2 - you'll get the best bang for your buck if you buy a wheel and hub already laced up, but you'll need to know what size the hub is. Post up your bike make/model/year, or just measure the space between the front dropouts. You'll also need to know if you're looking for a rim brake or disc brake setup. And then if it does have disc brakes, you'll need a brake disc. WTB Nanos are a pretty standard XC tire, the Nano 40 is probably the closest thing they sell to what you've got, but really anything will do. XC tires tend to have light weight casings and small knobs, closely spaced.

Assuming a 100mm front hub spacing and disc brakes, something like this would do you: https://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-Alloy-Mountain-Double/dp/B0186OUK3I - there's better out there for sure, but at the budget you're playing with they're all pretty much the same I think. You'd have to pay several hundred more for a "good" wheelset.

Oh, and don't forget the QR skewer or thru-axle, depending on which setup you have.

First off: watch out with "26 inch" wheels. There are no fewer than 5 different, incompatible "26 inch" sizes which you are likely to encounter!.

Since 26 x 1-3/8 wheels are not used on modern bikes, your options are going to be a bit limited. You definitely want an aluminum alloy wheel (instead of steel). Here is one in the right size and material, that accepts a thread-on freewheel. It is a bolt-on wheel, however (not quick-release compatible). The seller does not indicate what the axle length is, but I think only one axle length was common for 26x1-3/8 wheels. Good luck!

Really hard to help you on the gearing situation without pictures. What kind of shifters does it have? Is the rear shifter indexed?

You may be able to just buy a new 6-speed thread-on freewheel, if the shifter is not indexed (or is indexed for 6 speeds). They are not expensive, and can be installed without a tool. You'll need to replace the chain too, btw (the chain and rear gears wear together). I would prefer this option, if at all possible.

If you simply must keep the old freewheel with bizarro gears, you'll have to figure out which of the various freewheel removal tools it takes. You'll also need something to apply serious leverage to the tool, as freewheels are tightened by the force of pedaling. A bench vise is best. Plenty of youtube videos demonstrating the removal technique.

Amazon or eBay will have a brake kit.

CNC Adaptor: https://www.amazon.com/UAUS-Sprocket-Adapter-Motorized-Bicycle/dp/B07ZJ3STLC/ref=sr_1_6?crid=1RF5YNX546933&keywords=motorized+bicycle+sprocket+adapter+kit&qid=1574881286&sprefix=motorized+bicyle+sp%2Caps%2C319&sr=8-6

Disc Brake kit: https://www.amazon.com/BlueSunshine-Front-Back-Disk-Brake/dp/B07458MXNB/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=motorized+bicycle+disc+brake+kit&qid=1574883409&sr=8-1
Note: The CNC hub has a 6 bolt pattern near the center of the hub to bolt the rear disc onto. If you wish to use disc up front, you will need a front wheel or hub that can adapt to disc brakes. You can also find 26" wheels with these disc brake hubs already installed.

Front disc brake will need one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Fashion-Life-Adjustable-Bracket-Mounting/dp/B019OML8VE/ref=pd_bxgy_468_2/136-3711700-3661816?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019OML8VE&pd_rd_r=9be28cda-a6eb-4e2e-917e-90974ef50b31&pd_rd_w=wq72u&pd_rd_wg=XttIU&pf_rd_p=09627863-9889-4290-b90a-5e9f86682449&pf_rd_r=26T3QTM8CF54HNDW67HP&psc=1&refRID=26T3QTM8CF54HNDW67HP

For the front, you will need a new front wheel. https://www.amazon.com/Alex-Rims-Alloy-Front-Wheel/dp/B01FWHAHEE/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=26+x+1.75+bike+rim+disc&qid=1574887171&s=sporting-goods&sr=1-1

Disc Brakes are ideal, (better stopping) but if you don't want to go the hassle of installing them, you can instead opt for v brakes.
https://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Cruiser-Steel-73-91mm-Chrome/dp/B000AO5J16/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=motorized+bicycle+v+brake+kit&qid=1574883735&sr=8-12

Use this video as a guide to installing disc brakes on your bike (please note, the rear disc will be bolted to the motorized bike sprocket, so, its mainly good for the front.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=emW7M-ZD0Pw&t=104s


Also, if you prefer "Mag" wheels as opposed to spokes, here's a nice set of BBR tuning mags for $119. These Include the motorized bicycle rear sprocket, so the above listed CNC Sprocket Adapter will NOT be needed if you buy these wheels. The Mags are disc brake ready, no additional adapters needed outside of the front and rear caliper mounts.

https://www.amazon.com/BBR-Tuning-Mountain-Cruisers-Motorized/dp/B076PWYSFS/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=bicycle+disc+brake+wheel&qid=1574884536&refinements=p_n_feature_six_browse-bin%3A6404041011%2Cp_36%3A-20000&rnid=386589011&s=outdoor-recreation&sr=1-10

Make sure everything fits your bike before purchase. Also, feel free to do some research.

I recommend buying a whole wheel, not just a rim. This is usually more economical than building a wheel from rim/spokes/hub, and wheelbuilding isn't a simple task (it is fun, but not really a beginner task).

That said, I'd also recommend buying a pair of wheels - a pair often doesn't cost much more than a rear wheel alone. Then, you'll have matching new wheels!

Things to look for: ALUMINUM alloy rims are a big improvement over chrome steel, which was the default for lots of 10-speeds. Double-wall extrusion rims are stronger than single-wall. For an older 10-speed frame, I wouldn't go into the bladed/paired/reduced-count spokes - a traditional cross pattern with 32 or 36 spokes should be fine (and will last forever too).

I would recommend upgrading to 700c diameter rims (a touch smaller than 27" rims). You'll need to get 700c tires for these, because 27" won't fit. However, the number of tires available in the 700c size is probably 10x the number of those available in 27", so your choices just got a lot wider.

Here is an example of a new wheel that might work for you: http://www.amazon.com/Dimension-Formula-Freewheel-130mm-Silver/dp/B001CK2JOW

Almost any bike shop I've even been to keeps a stock of affordable replacement wheels from Dimension/Formula/Alex - right from the QBP catalog.

If it's an X-Fact, you're better off getting a new rear wheel altogether. Those bikes are junk. They're not unusable junk, but parts will keep breaking down. So, rather than replace them with identical parts, you're better off upgrading to something slightly better.

I've had two rear axles break just like that before deciding to just get a new wheel built, with a better hub/rim/spokes.

Otherwise, if you insist on going this route, here you go (just an example after a quick search)

Avoid Aliexpress; their business model protects the seller often more than the buyer, only buy stuff from there that you're content losing the full dollar amount of the product for.

I've thrown my legs over a number of Chinese "cheap carbon" wheels and frames over the years. Wheels have, by far, been the most consistently safe. I just recently came into possession of some Queen Bike 88mm deep tubulars as part of a deal with a complete bike, and when I received them (the rear had been ridden, the front had not) there were some pretty serious discrepancies in spoke tension, which I'll have to iron out myself. Also keep in mind I only race on my carbon wheels; I leave normal everyday riding to much cheaper alloy wheelsets.

If you're going the cheap route with Chinese carbon wheels, you can probably be confident in the materials themselves (notwithstanding high braking heat under 5+ minute descents on clincher rims; don't do that on cheap Chinese wheels). However, I recommend you either learn how to true/build/tension wheels or take them to a shop after buying them and have them professionally re-tensioned before ripping around them. After that, I think they're very nice; carbon isn't just an aesthetic, and it's not just aerodynamic. I've been racing on tons of different pieces of equipment my whole life, and of all the upgrades I consider on a bike, carbon wheels are always near the top because they make the bike ride and feel faster.

edit: Here's a link to some of the Queen bike wheels. Happy browsing! Sorry there's a bunch of people downvoting and ridiculing your honest question.

Wtb 650b's tubeless ready set up, found a great deal on Amazon for $169 probably you could swap the hubs in future but this is a great deal for a good set of affordable wheels !

Link if you're interested :

CyclingDeal WTB STP i25 Mountain Bike Novatec Boost Hubs Slick Tyres Wheelset 11s 27.5" TLR https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JVQ4RTK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GV17Cb5KXBAJ6

Not quite in the budget but if you can add $50, the Wabi Sub15s are super light and pretty classy looking, also radial front spoke setup.

for just wheels,m I've heard good things about these

but for the pricerange, save up and extra hundo and you could get a whole new bike, like the Windsor the Hour on BD. I like mine a lot and the wheelset is okay.

I scored this Rockhopper for $50! Now I’m looking to modernize pretty much the whole thing. Please critique my build list below. Would you get anything different, or better, or maybe anything else that would be better value? Did I miss anything? Do you think all of this will work together? It will be my adventure bike for bike packing, gravel, off road touring.

FOMTOR 25.4 stem 60mm 35 Degree Bike Handlebar Stem Riserhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07G71CZG6

UPANBIKE Road Mountain Bike Bicycle Stem Riser Adapter 1 1/8" φ22.2mm https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LLR8PR

Action 1-1/8" W/Adjuster Black Cable Hanger Fronthttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XCSKWCQ

KMC X9L 9 Speed Chain Gold Coatedhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HPV7M

Wheel Set 26 x 1.5, Mavic x M117, Deore M530 9Sp Hub, Blk SS Spokes, 32Hhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0033H53VI

Shimano Deore 9-Speed Mountain Bicycle Rear Derailleur - RD-M591https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003OWPRLI

Maxxis DTH 26 X 2.15 60A Kevlar Blackhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XIT4YS

XCSOURCE MTB Mountain Bike Crankset Aluminum Bicycle Crank Sprocket and Bottom Bracket Kit 170mm CS400https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LWXUV7I

RaceFace 104mm Single Chain Ringhttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D3FG6ZW

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Edit: Adding Shifters and Cassette

SHIMANO Deore SL-M590 9-Speed Shift Lever
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IKVJF8Y/

JGbike Sunrace 8 9 10 Speed MTB Cassette 11-40T 1 Wide Ratio Including 22mm Extender - for SRAM Shimano-Type splined freehub Body
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MRLWHEO

Best bang for your buck (I just got a new rear wheel built, and I'm 220+ with a heavy touring bike):

• SunRingle Rhyno Lite or CR18 36-hole double-wall 700c Rim (if your FX3 has rim brakes you'll want a machined sidewall for the brake pads)
  
• DT Swiss Spokes
  
• Deore, SLX or similar 36-hole Hub (the latter is more expensive but has sealed bearings)
  
  All told, you'll be looking at maybe $200 including labor (although some beer for the mechanics might get you a small break). Alternatively, your shop might be able to get a good prebuilt wheel through QBP; look for ones geared toward touring, as they're built for heavy loads and long rides.

pretty sure you can get the phil hubs new from amazon for less than $300... http://www.amazon.com/Phil-Wood-High-Flange-Track-Chrome/dp/B001GSMP6M/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1416376570&sr=8-7&keywords=phil+wood

I honestly don't think that is that excessive, people spend extreme amounts on bike stuff all the time. My own touring bike is over $4,000, and that's not the most expensive bike I own.

I mean here is a hub, yes, a hub, a geared hub admittedly but a hub, that costs over $1,200:

http://www.amazon.com/Rohloff-Speedhub-Speeds-16t-Silver/dp/B001GSOPOC

These things are very popular with touring cyclists, I have met plenty that have one. Despite being fricking $1,200. For a hub. Not even the whole wheel.

I'm not necessarily seeing the point of this caravan thing over a tent, but the price alone isn't a "yikes", if there is someone who actually wants this for some reason.

I don't plan on sinking a ton of money into this bike. I want to keep it super simple because I will just be riding this to and from work every day.

• Wheels
  
  
• Cranks
  
  And that is all I have figured out for this build. This is my first fixed gear.

found the Rohloff Speedhub on amazon. $1,216.80, you save $49.58

yes! ok, so in that case you want something like this. for example, here is one.

you'll also need the little tool to remove the freewheel so you can transfer it to the new wheel (there's one on the page you linked to in "also buy"). be warned - they can be a real pig to undo. you may also need a "chain whip".

(i should say i am just someone who's owned bikes - i don't work in a bike shop, so you may want to check with someone else. but that's what i'd get.)

Thanks for the info, so should I stay with the freewheel or switch to cassette since I am replacing both parts, cassette seems cheaper but I am not sure if it will work?

Am I on the right track with these setups below?


Freewheel:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-HG37-Tourney-Freewheel-13-28T/dp/B001IORDH0/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427163&sr=8-3&keywords=shimano+freewheel
http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silver-Freewheel-Release-26X1-5-Inch/dp/B004YJ2O48/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427274&sr=8-1&keywords=26+inch+bike+rim+rear

Cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Avenir-Nutted-Cruiser-Freewheel-1-75-Inch/dp/B003RLL5VM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427463&sr=8-2&keywords=26+inch+bike+rim+rear+cassette
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CS-HG20-7-Speed-Cassette-12-28T/dp/B003ZM9QQY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1463427489&sr=8-4&keywords=shimano+7+speed+cassette

I am building a SS/fix for myself, do you think these are a good buy?

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Alloy-700c-CR18-Silver-Hole/dp/B000AO7EYQ/ref=sr_1_12?s=sporting-goods&srs=12660340011&ie=UTF8&qid=1538364115&sr=1-12#customerReviews

phil wood

arguably the best looking hub, and reviews/reports are saying its durable..

if I were to drop 350 on hubs, i'd get wood hubs..

At this price, why not buy two?

1200+ for the hub.

Bah, if we're gonna spend money then let's get a Rohloff. Go big, or go home!

$1200.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GSOPOC/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?pc_redir=1414215063

Here's a set with Mavic for a little more than $100. I haven't shopped wheels for a couple years, but there was a time when everyone was blowing out rim brake Deore wheel sets. A deeper search would probably turn some up. That said, the Mavic/Deore wheels would cost a good $180 in parts. All ya gotta do is seat the spoke heads and tweak the tension. I'd prefer Sun rims over Mavic. Last I checked they can take about 15kgf more tension as the alloy isn't as brittle.