Reddit mentions: The best bike wheels & accessories

Good news! I only need one wheel, the rear:
http://i.imgur.com/Wi2krBs.jpg

So I need a cassette and a wheel. Haven't taken the bike out of my car yet or done any clean up, but I'm probably going to pick up a new saddle as well. That or reupholster the one thats there (wouldn't be my first time reupholstering, though in the past the seats were from cars!)

The front wheel is good, the tire is flat. I'll check tomorrow to see if the tube is any good, or if I need to replace it.

As far as the rear wheel, any reason I shouldn't order something like this wheel paired with this freewheel cassette?

Cheap, but seems to have worked out for like trail riding for others (which is about as hardcore as I'll get).

Thanks again for your help so far!

Im so sorry this happened to you. I cant give any better advice than has been given, however, I have advice on how to prevent your next bike from being stolen.

I REALLY hope that cable lock in the picture isnt the lock you used. Using a cheap $20 lock to protect what I'm guessing is a $600 or more bike is asking for trouble. For your next bike, get locking skewers to protect your wheels. They make it practically impossible to remove your wheels when used right. Then get a U-lock, and use it anywhere on the frame. If you only protect your frame and not your wheels (aka if you dont get the locking skewers, or use a cable lock for your wheels), then you're looking at paying around $200 per wheel in aftermarket parts.

Locking Skewers:
http://www.amazon.com/Pinhead-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer-Pack/dp/B001Y9X328

http://www.amazon.com/OnGuard-MinPin-3-Piece-Locking-Skewer/dp/B00773XY9M/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286334&sr=1-2&keywords=onguard+skewers

or the best:
http://www.urbanbiketech.com/Pitlock-Locking-Skewer-Sets-s/1.htm

For U-locks, any is pretty good, but the higher-end you go, the better, and DEFINITELY sign up for the insurance the lock comes with! Here are two of the best:
http://www.amazon.com/Kryptonite-Standard-Bicycle-Transit-FlexFrame/dp/B005YPK9SY/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286741&sr=1-2&keywords=new+york+lock

http://www.amazon.com/Blackburn-Sing-Bicycle-U-Lock/dp/B00470OYE2/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1373286786&sr=1-2&keywords=blackburn+u+lock

I was looking into this last year, and I found TreeHugger had the best guide. (Un?)fortunately, your bike is going to look like a good bike to anyone in the know. Proper security is probably going to do you more good than making your bike ugly. Your bike isn't worth that much that you want to spend $400 securing it, so here's a few tips.

First, you can get rid of any quickreleases, in favor of either locking skewers, gravity skewers, or something else that will make taking the tires off more of a pain.

Second, use a u-lock and a cable lock. Both wheels should be secured separately, both to the frame, and at least one of the locks through your bike rack (both should fit, if your u-lock fits right now). The purpose of the two types of locks is to require two types of tools to free your bike from the rack.

Third, get renter's/homeowner's insurance to cover the bike. Should be less than $10 a month, and will give you peace of mind.

Finally, if you just want to prevent people from riding away with your bike, there are.... other... less safe-for-work methods...

Even DIY on the cheap, $200 is too low. The cheapest build is going to look something like this:

• Donor bike from yard sale, thrift store, or Craigslist - budget $25
  
• Inexpensive front-hub motor kit from Amazon - budget $165
  
• 2x 18V tool batteries - budget $35
  
• 3D printed battery adapter - budget six-pack of good beer to your closest maker friend
  
  That's $237 total, and that doesn't include any "oops" money. You will screw something up. Count on it.
  
  Save up $400 and you've got yourself a reasonable starting budget for a first build, but you'll still have to get by on a hacked together tool-battery solution or cheap lipos. Batteries are easily the most expensive part of any build, and there is no cheap way around it if you want lithium. And you do want lithium.
  
  A good strategy is to build a decent "base" e-bike with a frame and motor that you can work with, then add a better battery later. Unit Pack Power has decent packs at good prices.
  
  https://unitpackpower.aliexpress.com/store/group/Down-tube-battery/1178407_514085584.html?spm=2114.12010615.pcShopHead_5960954.1_6_

Is it a 2017 frame or earlier? The 2017 uses knot boost but the spacers make it work woth 135’s. FWIW, this is the set I bought for my new Ogre ebike build. They have held up well over the 2000 miles I have put on them. On the cheaper side. I’m sure there are much better options, but these were a great bang for the buck option for me.

After looking at it again this set is probably a better option since it's already setup for a single speed and not for multiple gears.. Then you need a gear something like this. That's a freewheel so it assumes that you have front and rear brakes already. I've not personally used these parts so I can't speak to their quality but amazon users like them... You could also talk to a local bike shop and usually they are happy to help.

Wow. I've never heard of eccentric bottom brackets before - sounds like a really good solution. Do you have any pics of it? The only way I've seen for dealing with it is with that is with an eccentric rear hubs, like this, and they're super expensive and require rebuilding the wheel.

Componentwise it's pretty good for it's price. Three things I don't like:

1. Wheels: they are pretty low end. See details here. In this price range you can't really ask for more but I want you to consider that the wheels are of equal importance than the groupset.
   
   
2. The saddle: seems like an absolute tr*sh saddle with way too much padding to me. You might have to find another one if you don't seem to get comfortable with it.
   
   
3. The gear ratio: it's a 11-25 cassette. If this is good or bad mainly depends on what kind of riding you want to do. If you want to do lots of climbing you are probably overgeared. Especially, if you can't put out at least 250 watts for 1 hour. For more of a climbing oriented gear range aim for a 11-28 cassette.
   
   Also you have to be able to do basic maintenance like adjusting the shifters because you can't rely on your local shop. If all of this isn't a concern for you then go for it!

Well - for around $100 you can get a Wheelmaster 27" wheelset. Doublewall Weinmann alloy rims, should be a little lighter than your steel rims. They are drilled for presta valves so if your tubes have schraeder valves you'll need tubes too.

These are pretty much a direct drop in on old road bikes with a 5,6 or 7 speed freewheel - note if you have a cassette instead of a freewheel then they won't work. We'd need pics of your rear wheel (off the bike - closeup of the gears) to see what it is, since we don't know the year of your bike.

Mavic open sport rims are about $33/rim, plus spokes and labor at the bike shop which varies depending on the shop, so hard to say how much that route would cost. You'd have to go to shops and get pricing.

Those rims you found on craigslist aren't necessarily bad - despite the stupid snobbery in this sub against machine built wheels the machine built Shimano wheelsets I own have lasted forever and stayed true near forever - they're just entry level wheelsets and are likely better than the steel wheels you have now. But, ultimately you'd spend less money buying a newer used bike then trying to fit them on your old bike with everything you'd have to change.

Any 6 speed freewheel would fit on those wheels. Does that mean that your 6 speed freewheel would fit? Who knows? Are you sure it's a 6 speed freewheel and not a Helicomatic freewheel or a Uniglide cassette? If you are, then it'll fit.

Also, those wheels are utter crap. You would be much better served getting ones with an alloy rim like: http://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-Front-Bicycle-Silver/dp/B0014GJYO2/ref=sr_1_191?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1412038154&sr=1-191

They're going to be much lighter, not rust and actually brake in the rain rather than the steel ones.

Need some help in picking a new wheel set for my bike.

I have a 29” hard tail bought from Bikes Direct. Been a great bike so far and I knew when buying it that the wheels/hubs would be the first to replace.

I have rode it pretty aggressively so far and I’m right at 300lbs. Having some trouble with the rear hub already and just want to go ahead with the upgrade. Read a lot so far on what options I might have, but nothing is better than community feedback.

I mainly ride intermediate trails with downhill mixed in on occasion.

Budget is $500-$600 would be great to spend less though!

So far I’m looking at the following:

Hunt Wheels TrailWide - I haven’t found a supplier in the US yet

Stan’s No Tubes Flow MK3

Mavic 29er Rim with Shimano Hubs
https://www.amazon.com/Mavic-29er-Wheels-Shimano-Continental/dp/B01HDTR27Y

Disclaimer: I am still very new to the gear side of riding so please understand I know that I still don’t have a great handle on all the terminology or even the specifications. That’s why I came here for advice.

New here. Front wheel recently stolen, seeking help confirming correct replacement size.

Remaining rear wheel: Weinmann Rm19 27 x 1.25 X28c/350C ETRTO 630x19

Would this be a proper replacement? Any help or suggestions super appreciated.

Thanks.

Zefal makes awesome locking skewers that don't use a key
Lezyne is the most amazing company ever, stock their everything (especially floor pumps)
Origin 8 Smooth Shaft Tubes
Quik Stiks
Also you should look into getting Merry Sales Co as a distributor, they have some rad stuff.

Here is an example of one of them and I found a 2nd type of locking system. I live in a very non-theft prone area so I only know about the type of lock through a friend who biked more in Boston and even he admitted they were mostly a deterrent. I am sure your local bike shop might have some better suggestions than those or they might know of a better designed brand.

You'd be better off with 32 spokes and 3x lacing, something like Shimano hubs on Mavic Open Sport rims. I've got similar on my commuting bike, pretty indestructible and you can easily get any spares if you need.

Mavic Rim 29er Mountain Bike Wheels with Disc Brake Shimano Hubs PLUS Free Continental 29x2.2" Race King Tires and Tubes! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDTR27Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lZ-8Ab5182CY3

Found these just looking around on amazon reviews are good would you trust these ?

Just to be specific, these are the two models I'm talking about.

Chain This model specifically because it's the 18mm version with the Fahgettaboudit lock. The chain being 18mm means it's too large to cut with bolt cutters. The lock is also a Fahgettaboudit style lock which means it has two locking hasps, requiring a minimum of two cuts to remove the lock itself. It's a pain to get through either with a battery powered angle grinder, though that will work eventually. Angle grinder > any lock unfortunately.

U-Lock This is my every-day lock, and it's this one because it's the smaller of the two, which prevents people from jamming a jack in there. I don't know if you could even get it done without something like a 12 or 15 ton bottle jack, but I like the security. There's less flexibility in what you can lock to, but it's security is top shelf.

Also highly recomended

The Zefal Locking Bicycle Hub Skewers is good it unlocks only if the bike is upside down.

As far As the saddle, get foil wrap put it on the steps and seat on it. Measure the two dimples and see if your current saddle is wide enough to support it. Either way it takes time to adjust to a New saddle even if its made for you. I use the fizik aliente. Love it

I have always been happy with Joe blow pumps, as for locks I personally like the Abus locks, other popular brands will be kryptonite locks.

Here's the Abus lock that I have it is small so either pick up some Pinheads or a cable to cover your wheels.

Thanks for the explanation. So to clarify, the wheelset/hub and the cassette I linked to should be compatible with each other; and I just need to make sure my derailleur works with the cassette?

And just curious, how do you know that my current hub has a freewheel, and how do you know that the new cassette is compatible with the new hub?

I recently purchased the Abus Bordo Granit X-Plus 6500 Foldable Lock and the Pinhead Bicycle Locking Skewer Set and while they were a little pricey, I'm definitely happy with these products and my newfound bicycle safety.

You need a 700c or 29" wheel with quick release hubs. The wheels you linked to would fit but are unnecessarily fancy for a heavy hybrid bike such as yours. I might recommend cheaper and less eye-catching wheels like these or these.

Don't forget that you'll need tubes, tires, rim tape, disc rotors, and a cassette.

I would avoid the cable locks at all costs. U-lock, or a chain. To secure your seat and wheels, this is a good idea. I prefer Pitlocks, but the Zefal is better than nothing. Of course, it doesn't hurt to use a U-lock for the frame, and a cable lock for the wheels... but I've seen more than my share of cable locks cut off near bike racks.

To second /u/rhizopogon, the brake-to-rim spacing is important - you might need longer reach brakes if you go for 700c wheels. Also, depending on your bike's rear cassette and hub dimension, you might not ever be able to find a new set of wheels that fit your bike without having to spread the rear fork (called cold-setting, people do it no problem, it might damage the frame if you spread too far).

Since you're on a budget, I think going for 700c wheels might not be the best choice - especially if it requires new brakes, or potentially cold-setting your frame.

I just bought a nice new wheelset for my 1981 road bike through my local bike shop for $130, my old brakes fit to the rim just fine. It looks like you can get the set cheaper on amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-Weinmann-LP18-Set/dp/B0040DRGB4

They're not the lightest, but I like them. With these old bikes, its tough to do a total overhaul since you have to drill out parts of the frame to accommodate new bolt sizes, get special longer reach brakes, etc, so personally I wouldn't splurge. Just double check your wheel hub width, and confirm this wheelset will do it for you.

Ya you either need a new 700c rear wheel or to lace a new rim to the current hub. . Not sure if your bike has a cassette or a freewheel. It says 6 speed gearing so my money is on a 6 speed freewheel. If that’s the case you need a wheel set up for a freewheel and also a freewheel remover if you are gonna do it yourself.

I’m gonna throw an upgrade at you to consider.

29er wheelset (same size as 700c but called 29er because it’s a mountain bike rim.)

Mountain bike wheels are a little beefier and will take more punishment. This one is cheap and comes with tires already.

Mavic Rim 29er Mountain Bike Wheels with Disc Brake Shimano Hubs PLUS Free Continental 29x2.2" Race King Tires and Tubes! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDTR27Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SlF9AbR7A1F1B

9 speed cassette
Shimano HG400 9 Speed Mountain Bike Cassette - CS-HG400-9 (11-36) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073CFBPF9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_boF9Ab48BVPKH

SRAM X.5 Rear Trigger Shifter for 9 Speed Drivetrains, Black, 9 Speed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0063HG45Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bpF9AbA9TRZ94

SRAM X5 Medium Cage Silver 9 Speed Rear Derailleur https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00554231U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QqF9AbC18FV41

KMC KMC023 X9.93 Bicycle Chain (9-Speed, 1/2 x 11/128-Inch, 116L, Silver/Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AYJF2E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lrF9AbDFWEG5T

So basically $280 would get you new wheels that are tougher and come with bigger cushier tires, and allow you to upgrade to disc brakes in the future. Also we’re scraping the terrible 6 speed freewheel and upgrading to a 9 speed cassette. It will shift better, give you better low end torque and high end speed. The wheel set also allows you to upgrade to 10, 11 or even 12 speed but 9 should be sufficient.

If you want to protect your wheels, get a security skewer like this: https://www.amazon.com/Pinhead-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer-Piece/dp/B001Y9X328

As a supplement to your locking strategy, get yourself some of these.

They're great, much more convenient than running a cable through your front wheel and probably more secure. Seat one is not enough though, since it doesn't secure the saddle to the seatpost.

Full disclosure: That above is an affiliate link, because why not?

I use these:
Pinhead Bicycle Locking Skewer Set, 4 Pack

There are other similar items, so you can shop around for your needs and price. As with any bike lock situation, nothing can prevent theft, but these do a great job of deterring.

Cheaper!

http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Release-Skewer-Mounted-Trainers/dp/B0063R2XO0/ref=sr_1_2?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1422246750&sr=1-2&keywords=rear+skewer&pebp=1422246767930&peasin=B0063R2XO0

Honestly all those trainer skewers are the exact same as old school skewers and you can probably get one from an old lbs off an old bike for free or a few bucks.

I like to recommend people buy a pinlock set for their wheels, seat and headset, now instead of limiting my u-lock spots to posts that will fit both my front wheel and frame it allowed me to lock just my frame, also one less cable to carry around.


Pinhead Bicycle Locking Skewer Set, 4 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001Y9X328/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UVhSzbRKK3HQE

Link

They're a $140 wheelset man, you can't get quality for that. If you're going to get something on the lower end of the cost spectrum I think you'd be better off getting something a brand like Shimano feels comfortable enough to put their name on.

Think about it like this. You're going out to buy vodka and you find a 1 liter bottle of Phillips. Not the best stuff in the world, but you're comfortable with the price, and it'll taste ok mixed with some coke and get the job done. On your way to the register you see a 2 liter bottle of mouthwash for 30% more, and not that pussy no alcohol shit either. Which do you choose? This is how I see the question you posed.

I got the kick bike used from Craigslist. I used a kit off EBay to do one of them. The other I did with Alibaba kit which was a little cheaper but was essentially the exact same.

I used this kit for a Schwinn kick bike with a true 26” front wheel. Worked great. I mounted the battery over the rear wheel using a rack and some engineering ingenuity. Didn’t install the pedals assist (there are no pedals....) and used the thumb throttle only. If you are installing a kick bike brand scooted, you may need to get a 700 size tire or 29” tire, depending on the kick bike model. You must match the tire size or risk a ground clearance issue with the board.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761QYCKM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I’ll look for a picture of my build. Please be warned it’s wrapped in cheetah fabric and playa dust from burning man.....

Thanks for your feedback! It's a double walled rim (one of these) with a cloth rim strip. The rim is a little deeper than I'm used to, though, so padding a little more might help!

What you will need to look for is a rear wheel with a threaded freewheel hub rather than a cassette hub if you want to use your existing freewheel which is the set of gears on the rear wheel. A freewheel has the ratchet mechanism as part of the gears and threads on to the hub whereas a cassette hub only has splines and the ratchet mechanism is inside the hub.

Removing and installing the freewheel requires a freewheel tool.

A wheel like this would work: http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silver-Alloy-Freewheel-700X20/dp/B004YJ2GJ6/

Less expensive wheel with single wall rim: http://www.amazon.com/Sta-Tru-Silver-ST725-Wheel-700X25/dp/B004YJ2MJA

You may want to true the wheel upon arrival whichever one you get.

BTW, what do you mean when you say you broke the rim?

I didn't use a guide, mostly just built it to how I liked it. Here are my parts though, don't hesitate to ask any questions!

Front hub motor with wheel and tire. Includes throttle, controller with bag, PAS (pedal assist), and 2 ebrakes that can be hooked up to caliper brakes.

Headlight with switch, also has a horn.

Taillight that I connected to the headlight switch wiring.

I can't link the exact battery, because it was a one-off item. For the motor I listed above, you'll need a 36v battery with 13Ah+.

I also used dielectric grease to help water/rust proof the connectors, silicone sealant for the case of every part. To hide the wiring, I drilled holes in the frame and routed wires through.

What's your take on the use of theft deterrent skewers, primarily Pinheads, or Pitlocks?

Ever since I put a set of pinheads on mine, I haven't worried about the wheels nearly as much. More security is always better... however I've found that these have been "good enough" so far for where I live.

Honestly, if you live in an area that's urban enough to commute by bike, you either need a mini-lock for your front wheel, a nice long chain lock, or buck up and secure your bolts.

I'm assuming your QR lever is one of the type where the cam is integrated into the lever and is one flat piece on the outside. You need a QR like this to be able to use it. It's really easy to change the QR skewer out.

thanks for the suggestion - since the front on that set only goes to 115mm does that mean I need to buy two sets and use the rear for the front on mine?

looks like they are only $10 on amazon which is even better but not if I need two sets I guess

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Axlerodz-Bolt-Bicycle-Skewers/dp/B000ACAMKG

it occurs to me, is replacing skewers as simple as turning the wheel horizontal so the bearings don't slide down, and then putting the skewer out?

i actually dont have anything to measure the dropout with, i used to have a tape measure but its not around now.

do these wheels work.id like something from amazon so i can get it quick

https://www.amazon.com/Aeromax-Alloy-Wheelset-Road-Wheels/dp/B002XOJD9A/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_200_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G5S6FJ6QKTMME7640T81

It is this listing: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01823A2FE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

They are exactly the same, the box and manual are from super team and they sent me the link.

You've got quick release axles you want to make more secure. Maybe I wasn't clear enough but I provided you with quick release axles that are more secure.

You have to flip the bike upside down to unlock those quick release axles.

just a bit cheaper than the most best alternative

Hey /r/FGB[1] , I really want to build my own bike this summer and started putting together a list cost of parts. So far this is what i have,
Frame/Fork: $200 (crew district) http://www.citygrounds.com/crew-bike-co/crew-bike-co-district-track-frameset-2016-4501/color/CELESTE[2]
Wheelset: $150 http://www.amazon.com/ZeroLite-Road-Comp-Wheel-Black/dp/B0081UW9VO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463699327&sr=8-1&keywords=wheelset[3]
Crankset:$70 http://www.amazon.com/State-Bicycle-Single-Crankset-Galaxy/dp/B00I96EE6I/ref=sr_1_7?s=outdoor-recreation&ie=UTF8&qid=1463699471&sr=1-7&keywords=crankset+fixed[4]
I realize I'll still need a bottom bracket, seat, stem, handlebars, and a brake and those will probably add up to another $100. Are there some parts I'm forgetting to list? And also, I'm already over $500 which is pretty expensive. What I don't understand is that the complete bike from citygrounds with the crew district frame is only $379. This seems like a really big difference in price, are the parts on the complete bike from CG that bad?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009GICQI6/ref=s9_dcacsd_bhz_bw_c_x_3

These locks are pretty amazing. They are very compact, and light weight, no keys to worry about. Comes with a case, and you won't notice it on your bike

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Axlerodz-Bolt-Bicycle-Skewers/dp/B000ACAMKG/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1467021603&sr=1-1&keywords=security+skewers

Get a set of these wheel locks as well

You should be ok to duck into a restaurant for a few minutes. Certainly not all day security, but enough to let you get some starbucks, or go inside to order some food.

Ah, so the spokes don't come with the rims like in this amazon listing?

> Just to be sure, I looked at the freewheel hubs and wheelsets in local e-shops, they're all 130

Huh


http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/wheel-master-alloy-sf-rear-hub-36h-126mm-sealed-bearing-qr-black?gclid=CjwKEAjwya-6BRDR3p6FuY2-u3MSJAD1paxT8wBnwk9VQ6Em86ERmXGa3vQFOqaKxwUuIesXLAC71BoCfvTw_wcB

http://www.modernbike.com/product-2126187580?gclid=CjwKEAjwya-6BRDR3p6FuY2-u3MSJAD1paxTN44_FNkVm61aQiu5UYy17jHIK-csziK5q_R7K16E4BoCo-Tw_wcB

http://www.amazon.com/Wheel-Master-Bicycle-Freewheel-Silver/dp/B000AO5FAQ?ie=UTF8&keywords=freewheel%20bicycle%20wheel&qid=1464631004&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

I would expect all MTB freewheel hubs to be 135 today, all road 126.

Those are cruiser wheels. Heavy, steel, wider than you likely want. Try to find some aluminum rimmed wheels, they'll be much better.

Edit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014GJYO2/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_vwQkub0YEY4YQ

Anyone have any thoughts on these Chinese aero wheels: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01823A2FE/ref=twister_dp_update?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I can't justify $2k for some name brand ones for my cat 5 self, still running stock wheels. These seem decently light, probably better aerodynamics than what I have now.

Can you send me link for geared hub?

Is it like this?

JAXPETY 36V 500W Electric Bicycle Cycle 26" E Bike Front Wheel Ebike Hub Motor Conversion Kit Hub Motor Wheel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0761QYCKM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_FC35CbJT3X5K0

Grab these: https://www.amazon.com/Queen-Bike-Clincher-Wheelset-Shimano/dp/B01823A2FE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1525642770&sr=8-3&keywords=carbon+wheelset
Amazon stocks them, so if you have prime they should be at your door in ~2 days. Solid build quality, relatively light and aero. I have a set on my bike right now. They are unbranded Superteam wheels. Can't exactly speak to their durability as I've only had them a couple of days, but I have heard good things. When it comes to Chinese wheels though, it really is a try at your own risk type deal.

In that case look into getting a freewheel set by sta tru for about $50 they'll be a little heavy but you should be able to thread your old freewheel (the back cogs) on to it and not have to worry about building out a new drive train.

A KMC Z Bicycle Bike Chain is like $10 +- and a Sta Tru STW 26 X 1.5 BO Silver Rear Mountain Bike Wheel and get back on the road again.

As an additional deterrent I would also replace the quick releases on your wheels with locking skewers like those.

I don't do much touring, but I only ever carry one lock. When I upgraded my wheels I got paranoid that someone might nick them, so I bought a set of pinhead locking skewers. You can get it as a 4-pack to include your locking your stem bolt and saddle too. Amazon link - UK.

I really like mine, they're expensive, so check out ebay first - I bought mine for about 60% off RRP.

Edit: You need to register the key, then you can order a spare. Not sure what this costs you. FWIW, I haven't lost my key yet.

these are neat but I think there are cheaper options.

http://www.amazon.com/Pinhead-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer-Pack/dp/B001Y9X328/ref=sr_1_27?ie=UTF8&qid=1375369773&sr=8-27&keywords=cycling+locking

Pretty common complaint for horizontal dropouts with quick release skewers. As always, Sheldon explains it best.

You need to either use an enclosed cam skewer (might work) or a bolt on skewer (will work).

So I have the diamondback Haanjo Tero, and love riding it on the dirt trails near me. I was thinking I could get a new Wheelset for road use, but I'm having trouble finding one that will fit with the disc brakes, does anyone have any insight into this that would simplify it?

The wheelset I was looking at is this one Amazon

Would I need anything else (besides the groupset and brake discs)?

maybe get some locking skewers and then lock up the wheel with a u lock if you have one, it's not perfect but you'll prevent the casual theif

Because I use Pinheads. While not a perfect solution, they are a nice deterrent.

Thieves are generally not going to remove things that are bolted down to your bike, except for possibly your seat (especially if it's an expensive seat like a Brooks).

Wheels are a common target, as are things that are easily removed (don't leave detachable lights on your bike, for example).

What I do is I have a big U-lock for the front wheel and frame, and I have locking skewers for both wheels and my headset. These replace your quick release so someone can't just detach your wheel and walk away. There's a bolt in there for your seat as well, if it's compatible. My seat bolt wasn't so I have a short cable lock looped through my seat and permanently zip tied to my bike, just as a deterrent.

With this setup I only have to use my U-lock when I park and take my lights off. Everything else needs tools to be removed, and I haven't had anything stolen to date.

Another thing to do is park next to bikes that only have cable locks. They'll be stolen first.

http://sheldonbrown.com/upgrade.html

Has some advice for respacing and getting new wheels to fit.

You can get some new 27 wheels

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000AO5FAQ

but they're going to be cheep machine built single walled rims and I can't recommend them.

Until recently I thought Velocity still made the Dyad (good solid touring quality rim) in 27", but I can't find any in-stock.

They do have

synergy and aero rims in 27" which are double walled and availble in 36 spoke count

They also have a fully built wheel, handbuilt 36 spokes would come out to about $100. Would still use a freewheel so you're existing drivetrain should be compatible, but frame spacing is 130mm which is probably wider than what you have (120 or 126). Take a look at sheldon brown's frame-spacing or you're LBS 'might' do it (don't be surprised if the don't though because of liability issues)

Here's what I do for my Bullitt: One Kryptonite Fuhgeddaboudit (small as you can get), and a set of Pinhead lock set (locking skewers for wheels and locking seat post collar). A slim Tile under the cargo deck sealed with 3M Heavy Duty Packing tape.


With the pinhead lock set, you only need to lock the frame with the Fuhgeddaboudit U-lock (typically I lock at one of the lateral vertical braces parallel to the head tube, or if I have the big cargo box for the kids on the front, will lock around one of the rear seat stays).

Kryptonite Lock: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000OZ9VLU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pinhead lock set: https://smile.amazon.com/Pinhead-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer-Pack/dp/B000XHBKOU/ref=sr_1_6?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1525893173&sr=1-6&keywords=pinhead+lock

I prefer the Zefal locking skewers.

looking at this -> http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004YJ2MJA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761QYCKM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

What's your opinion on these?

WheelMaster Weinmann LP18 Wheel Set

This one

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761QYCKM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My experience also. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0761QYCKM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Paid $135 about a year ago. This battery was about $170. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1N3J1W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ebay was cheaper.

Can I use these wheels:

http://www.amazon.com/27in-Road-ISO-Diameter-630/dp/B0040DRGB4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420479158&sr=8-1&keywords=27+inch+road+bike+wheelset

with this cassette:

http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-TZ20-Tourney-Freewheel-14-28T/dp/B001G0X2DA/ref=pd_bxgy_sg_img_y

Check out these for $94:

http://www.amazon.com/ZeroLite-Road-Comp-Wheel-Black/dp/B0081UW9VO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405107745&sr=8-2&keywords=wheelset

Get a quality U-lock and locking skewers.

If your bike uses QR skewers, there are products such as these:

https://www.amazon.com/Delta-Axlerodz-Bolt-Bicycle-Skewers/dp/B000ACAMKG

https://www.amazon.com/Pinhead-Bicycle-Locking-Skewer-Pack/dp/B001Y9X328/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1478254988&sr=8-2&keywords=pinhead+lock

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01823A2FE?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

do you think this would suit a single speed?

this should do the trick. there are a couple warehouse deals for the set <100$

Bummer dude, losing wheels is never fun. Grab this deal while it's hot. If you want to keep locking up with a single U-Lock/no cable, you can try locking skewers like these or these. I've used the latter for years now; they're not bulletproof, and with enough time you can definitely get them off, but it's all about reducing that 'crime of opportunity' hazard.
Alternatively use a cable or a 2nd U-lock.

Kryptonite 14mm Chain and U-Lock for the back wheel and frame.

Master Lock Force 3 U-Lock for locking the front wheel to the frame and loop a cable in with that to go around the post and back wheel.

Pinhead Set. Skewers for both wheels. Locks the headset and the seatpost as well.

I've had 2 bikes stolen. Never again.

Dank jullie voor jullie advies! Ik ga mogelijk een extra slot kopen, misschien een AXA kettingslot. Hebben jullie ervaring met een inrichting zoals deze? Ik heb ze al voor mijn wielen. Ik woon in Washington DC, die heeft ook fietsdiefstal.

oh sorry. it's a locking skewer set. it's not 100% fool proof, but it would make removing quick release tires, your seat and/or handle bars take a lot more time and effort. i got them so that i wouldn't have to use one of the big chain locks. i don't know much at all about working on bikes and i was able to install them myself no problem.

I got a skewer system that is permanently installed on the bike, it will not let you remove the saddle, tires, or handle bar if you don't have the key. Will not seeing a chain/wire locking the tires and frame make someone attempt to take it? I think the worst that could happen is that the thief might cut the brakes' wires at the handle bar?

Edit: wrong link