Reddit mentions: The best boat trailer parts & accessories
We found 60 Reddit comments discussing the best boat trailer parts & accessories. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 11 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Seattle Sports Sherpak Hood Loops (Pair) - Under Hood Anchor Point for Tie Downs
- TIE DOWN ATTACHMENT POINT - Great for Vehicles with Plastic Bumpers That Have No Metal Attachment Points on the Chassis
- VERSATILE - Great Anchor Point for Tying Down and Stabilizing Kayaks or Other Cargo
- INSTRUCTIONS - These Innovative Loops
- LENGTH - 8" WIDTH - 1" (Sold in Pairs)
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 11.5 Inches |
Number of items | 2 |
Size | 8" |
Weight | 0.8 Pounds |
Width | 4.75 Inches |
2. Seattle Sports Sherpak Quick Loops - Fast Kayak and Canoe Tie Down Anchor Straps for Car Hoods and Trunks
VERSATILE - Use to Mount and Secure Kayaks and Canoes on Vehicles with No Lashing PointsSECURE - Works Under Hood and in the Trunk Where They Lock Into Place with Pressure, Securing the Bow and Stern in Place When Used in Conjunction with Tie DownsSIMPLE AND FAST - Quick, Easy, and Effective Solutio...
Specs:
Color | Black |
Height | 2 Inches |
Length | 12 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Weight | 0.06 Pounds |
Width | 4.75 Inches |
3. Seattle Sports Sherpak Suction Boat Roller Load Assist for Mounting Kayaks and Canoes to Car Tops, One Size, Silver
- VERSATILE - Use to Mount Kayaks and Canoes on Most Vehicles Using the Suction Cups on Car Tops or Glass with 2 Different Mounting Angles
- SIMPLE - Offers a Quick, Easy Solution for a Single Person to Load a Boat to a Car Top
- HEAVY DUTY - Aluminum Bars and Strong Suction Cups Mount Reliably to Car Tops or Car Glass
- GENTLE - Closed Cell Foam Gently Cradles Boat During Loading and Unloading to Prevent Scratches
- DIMENSIONS - 6.75" Upright, 2.75" 90 Degrees x 27"
- Sport type: cycling
Features:
Specs:
Color | Silver |
Height | 6.75 Inches |
Length | 2.75 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 1-Pack |
Weight | 2 Pounds |
Width | 27 Inches |
4. Sentry Ratchet Kayak and Canoe Bow and Stern Tie Downs 1/4" Grow Light Heavy Duty Adjustable Rope Hanger (2-Pack)
- 1.Reduces setup time and hassle and eliminates time-consuming knots
- 2.Secures the bow and stern of any boat with an easy to use ratchet pulley
- 3.Use for a variety of gear including lumbers and ladder
- 4.Ratcheting bow and stern tie-down racks for transporting kayaks
- 5.Best in class corrosion resistance. Since June 6, we have added two 10-foot ropes to each package. You can use them to increase the length of the ratchet tie rope, and you can also use it as a spare rope.There are more affordable set in our store(FishYuan), welcome to buy!
Features:
Specs:
Weight | 0.84 Pounds |
5. Brocraft Boat Launching Wheels/Boat Launching Dolly 12" Wheels for Inflatable Boats & Aluminum Boats
- Constructed of marine grade aluminum square tube with CNC processing, Angled frame arm Desgin , will not conflict the motor
- Weight Capacity: 500 lbs.Pressurized wheels; 12" in diameter
- Wheels easily lock up when not in use and easily fold down for boat moving
- Push the stainless steel solid button to operate, Auto lock wheel arm system by Easy Sliding Transom Bracket
- Includes two years warranty
Features:
Specs:
Color | Angled frame Boat Launching Wheels |
6. Trailer Bunk Glides (Kit of 4 Glides Under 60 inches; kit of 2 60 inches or More)
Fiberglass and aluminum boats, PWC and pontoons easily glide on and off Surfix Trailer Glides.Kit of 4 ( less than 60" ) kit of 2 ( 60 " or longer ) Solid High Density Polyethene .45” thick glides provide full bunk support; no more uneven spaced pads to leave marks on the hull. No thin skin to bre...
7. Viper Laser Throw/Toe Line Marker, Battery Operated
- State-Of-The-Art Laser Beam Which Accurately Marks Your Throw/Toe Line; Provides A Modern Alternative To Traditional Adhesive Floor Markers
- Compatible With Both Steel And Soft Tip Darts, Making The Viper Laser Throw/Toe Line Marker An Essential Accessory For Causal And Competitive Dart Player Alike
- Bright And Energy Efficient Lighting Of The Laser Allows It To Be Seen Even In Intense Daylight; Can Be Positioned At Any Vertical Angle Near Your Dartboard
- After Securely Mounting The Laser On A Cabinet Or Wall, Tighten The 2 Screws On Each Side Of The Laser (Do Not Overtighten) To Ensure It Stays In Place Even If It Is Bumped
Features:
Specs:
Color | Multi |
Height | 1.4 Inches |
Length | 9.8 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | One Size |
Weight | 0.35 Pounds |
Width | 2.6 Inches |
8. Reese Towpower 74177 Wheel Bearing Protector, Grey and Chrome
- Fits 1.980 inch hub grease cap bore diameter
- Keeps dirt and water from wheel bearings
- Permits easy lubrication for longer bearing life
- Kit contains 2 bearing protectors and 2 covers
- Easy to install
Features:
Specs:
Color | Grey and Chrome |
Height | 6 Inches |
Length | 3 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Width | 6 Inches |
9. LE KAPMOZ Quick Hood Loops Trunk Anchor Kayak Tie Downs Straps Bow Stern Canoe Transport Secure Lashing Point
- Essential: A necessary vehicle parts to stabilized the bow and stern of your kayak canoe surfboard paddleboard on the roof rack.
- Easy To use: Fast easy placement and removal, simply open your hood or trunk, position the loop where you want ( away from anything hot) it and close.
- Effective: The quick anchor loop lock in place with the pressure. providing a easily accessible attachment point under the hood, trunk, hatch to lash your strap to.
- Economical: An Inexpensive convenient way to get a tie down point underneath the hood or trunk of the sedan or SUV, help to prevent scratch on your vehicle's paint job.
- Excellent Quality: Constructed of flexible rubber hose (length 4.33” x dia:1”), heavy duty tight wave polyester webbing (length 11.8” x width 1”), optional color (blue/black).
Features:
Specs:
Color | Black 1 Pair |
Length | 11.8 Feet |
10. Guide-ON Post 40" H
Mounting Hardware included; Sold in PairsAdjusts out to 13" each SideFits Frames up to 3" W x 4-1/4" H 1-1/2" square, 16 gauge pre-galvanized steel uprights 18" highFor larger trailer frames check out our Large Frame U-Bolt Kit (11416): Fits trailer frames up to 3 inch wide x 5-1/4 inch tall2" sched...
Specs:
Color | Beige |
Height | 4 Inches |
Length | 43 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | 40" |
Weight | 21 Pounds |
Width | 18 Inches |
11. Mustad 3260B Classic Aberdeen Hook (10-Pack), Gold, Size 8
- Wide gap, same size as comparable standard treble
- In-line hook eye and point create 100% power hook sets
- Unique bend forces fish into elbow, making it virtually impossible to throw the hook
- Comes in a Pack of 10, Size: 8
- Sport type: Camping & Hiking
- Aberdeen Hook
- Mustad's Wire Technology And Nor-Tempering Process Means That Hooks Are Lighter And Up To 20 percent Stronger
- Mustad Classic
Features:
Specs:
Color | Gold |
Height | 1 Inches |
Length | 1 Inches |
Number of items | 1 |
Size | [Size 8, Pack of 10] |
Weight | 0.01 Pounds |
Width | 1 Inches |
🎓 Reddit experts on boat trailer parts & accessories
The comments and opinions expressed on this page are written exclusively by redditors. To provide you with the most relevant data, we sourced opinions from the most knowledgeable Reddit users based the total number of upvotes and downvotes received across comments on subreddits where boat trailer parts & accessories are discussed. For your reference and for the sake of transparency, here are the specialists whose opinions mattered the most in our ranking.
I'm 26 and 200 (with around 30 pounds of tackle, anchor, fishfinder, battery, etc. on board as well) with what I'd like to think is a pretty good sense of balance. I added a stand assist strap, and I can stand up in calm water to stretch and do some spotting, but anything more than that gets pretty darn sketchy.
I have yet to take mine into saltwater, but I absolutely don't see why not. It's actually 12'6", and I feel that the effective beam is much closer to 28" instead of the advertised 30". All things considered, it's a pretty quick boat for its class.
This is my mounting setup for my Garmin 5DV. I got a smokin' deal on it, which came in handy because RAM mounts are surprisingly expensive. Worth every penny so far though. I think the lighter-duty (and slightly shorter, which was the killer for me) RAM mount for a 4DV or other, vertical-screen fishfinder is close to half the price of the one I got though. All in all, a pretty easy install, just be wary of hidden costs such as transducer arm, battery, mounts, jerry-rigging hardware, etc. I suppose the good news is that I could move this setup to damn near any kayak (or even real boat) I want in the future with very minimal fuss.
Definitely cartoppable with the help of some load assist devices. Grab one of these and consider using a set of saddles that have rollers. I'm personally using a pair of Yakima Mako Saddles and a pair of Yakima Hully Rollers on my 2015 Subaru Impreza hatchback. If you're planning on using those sketchy foam blocks.... well..... good luck?
One important point to consider is that the stock seat is total dogshit. I bought one of these and added a 1.5" ass-pad underneath it and I gained worlds of comfort while still retaining a relatively low, efficient paddling position. I'm of the opinion that all of the fancy lawn chair setups found in higher-end kayaks, while supremely comfortable, aren't high enough to really provide much of a vision advantage while at the same time add a serious detriment to your paddling efficiency. To be fair, when I learned to kayak as a kid, it was through whitewater, so my ideas surrounding paddling are probably somewhat biased.
I seed and sawed on getting this model boat, among others, for months while I worked up funds for it, and then suddenly my friend offered to sell me his, barely used and with a fiberglass shaft paddle of correct length, for $250, leaving me plenty of funds to modify it to my liking.
Toyota Yaris hatchback owner here.
Inspired by an item I saw on Amazon, my DIY solution was to make a set of loops to slide into the rear hatch door. I did so using nothing more than some 1" nylon webbing, some old synthetic wine corks, and a sewing machine -- shown HERE ... 'zon version HERE.
As it happens, they fit perfectly in between the gap on the Yaris and are super secure. I would note that I use cam buckle straps, rather than ratchet straps, though. This ensures that I never over-tighten the rigging and damage either the car or kayak.
I made similar loops for under the hood of the car, affixed directly to the frame of the car using existing bolts, as a place to run the guyline from the front of the kayak, as to not damage the paint on the car (though looking at my picture, you might wonder why I care; horray sun damage!)
You may not be able to use this exact make and model, but this loading technique is effective. And really, you can duplicate it on whatever rack you have by removing the crossbar's end cap and using a piece of rebar steel (assuming you use a rack with exposed crossbar ends). This would be the cheapest option.
If you don't have exposed crossbar ends, then another thing you can do to load a kayak onto a normal car like yours, is to use a kayak cart as a "roller" by turning it upside down and placing it on the trunk or back windsheld of your car (depending on the shape of your cart and contours of your particular car). Video demo here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wnzk1VOJa0
If you're not able to do that for some reason, or don't need to own a kayak cart, they sell something that accomplishes the same thing:
https://www.amazon.com/Seattle-Sports-Sherpak-Boat-Roller/dp/B009PAAI5I/ref=pd_bxgy_468_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B009PAAI5I&pd_rd_r=XZY5YQA7AXZTVQKZH3VE&pd_rd_w=zCMiP&pd_rd_wg=k1tUj&psc=1&refRID=XZY5YQA7AXZTVQKZH3VE
Hope that helps.
If you go the kayak route, you can save a bundle for your roof racks if you already have the rails on your vehicle.
These have great reviews on Amazon. I just bought them and used them twice with success. You can also throw in these loops for securing the bows and sterns to your vehicle.
I would recommend these instead of dragging it up on the beach.
https://www.amazon.com/Brocraft-Launching-Wheels-Inflatable-Aluminum/dp/B01COKZU6W.
Also PVC is a lot more susceptible to punctures vs hypalon/CSM so I would not recommend dragging it unless you have a soft sand beach.
Regarding outboard, unless you have a hoist, you may want to go with something more manageable. We have the 5hp 4 stroke Tohatsu and my wife and I can carry the outboard if we need to. BUT the mercury 9.9 is a great little engine and fast. Its also quieter than my 5hp. The only systemic problems I know of is you never leave gas in the carb/float for more than a few days. Whenever you shut down for more than a 2-3 days, you want to run the engine out of gas to clear most of the fuel in the carb. That way on the next startup, you will have clean gas thru the valves.
Look for a local outfitter, the family owned and ran type store. I have always had the best luck with them, and the customer service is untouchable. They go that extra mile to make sure you return.
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I had an older Jeep but it did just fine ..I got some rack pads and tied it down bow and stern as well as side to side.....these work really well for the front of the car.
> but I don't want to have to tie down the front (like you have on your fenders) or the rears,
It's actually under the hood and under the trunk. There is nowhere on the frame of my wife's car to attach something. To be honest, it didn't feel necessary to do the front and back because the mount held it in place very well. But, I feel like it's a backup in case the mount comes off the rack itself.
There is a way (though not so easy) to haul kayaks on your JK - to address some of your concerns:
For easy bow line connection point - this might work
They mount under the hood and flip under the hood when not in use...
For the kayak/canoe to be on the roof - I've seen a configuration where:
There was a square tube mount that mounted directly the the sides of the windshield and the rear set of cross bars was actually a T rack that was mounted on the hitch...the windshield mount looked something like this, but I recall it bolted directly to the sides of the windshield in the factory holes...thinking more about it, I don't think it was a JK. The rear looked like this
As for seats soaking up mud...Its a Jeep! ;-)....maybe consider neoprene seat covers?
Hello fellow 'yaker! Greetings from the frozen plains of Iowa. One tip I have: I got a pair of hood tie downs like this: Seattle Sports Built USA Sherpa Hood Loops (Pair) - Under Hood Anchor Point for Tie Downs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NyJxCb2WCCZXS
Find a bolt that goes into the body near the hood line. Then the straps stick between the hood and the body. I tuck them out of the way under the hood when not in use. Looks cleaner and doesn't rub on the paint at all when attached to the front of the kayaks. Happy trails ✌️
I have a Chevy Cruze and an 11 foot kayak, what I do is first unscrew the antenna at the center of the roof. Most cars this can just screw and unscrew no problem.
I have 2 foam blocks like this Centering it as best I can. I try to put them right before the windshield and rear window, the area with the most support. When I load my kayak there is a small part that actually touches the roof so I just put an old towel under it to prevent scratching. The towel is pinned by the kayak and not going anywhere.
Next I put these things under the trunk and hood so I can use a rope to tie down the front and back. I have tried running this system without tying down the front and back and I would not feel comfortable driving more than a couple miles going <30 MPH.
Now I use straps like this and open all my doors and loop it over the kayak and through my car. Again trying to stay close to the front for more strength.
Then I just tighten the front and back ropes to make sure its not going to move left to right, and double check the straps across the kayak.
It seems like a lot but the whole process of loading and tying down takes maybe 10 minutes and that's alone. Quick drive around the block to make sure its good and I'm okay with driving for a couple hours before I want to check it.
This system has worked well for me and the only damage to my car has been the straps will move around a little near the door and leave marks but those are easily buffed out.
Have you considered foam racks? Copy and paste from my post earlier:
I have a 2000 civic hatchback DX so we basically have the same car but my car has a bigger butt. I bought this 25$ foam kit off amazon and it works fine. I also got these hooks and installed them on the radiator bolts and carry the kayak in the center of the roof. Two straps that came with the foam kit across the kayak and through the door shutting both doors on the straps, one more like it from tail of kayak to tow hook in the back, and one of the ropes off the nose like a V attaching to these two hooks on the front of the car. If you want to go more expensive there is this 90$ inflatable roof rack. I went with the cheaper route because I usually have a truck but the few times I don't I want to be able to still go out. I've yet to have an issue with the foam blocks. They work really well.
Edit, I also have a moonroof installed on my car. Tightened down tighter then it probably needs to be, the kayak almost touches the moonroof.
They also make wider ones for non V shaped kayaks also.
This is always my suggestion for anyone asking the best way to have removable but effective tie down points.
Use these underneath the hood and hatch for quick non permanent tie down points. Sherpak 078115 Quick Loops (Pair) , Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024AVPO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JDZIBb99AK3JQ
And these so you don't have to worry about dealing with knots. Sentry Ratchet Kayak and Canoe Bow and Stern Tie Downs 1/4" Grow Light Heavy Duty Adjustable Rope Hanger (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVFDM5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IFZIBbHAJX6WB
back it up further. usually my back wheels are 1' deep in the water with my trailers. Depends on the boat and trailer of course but usually you're going to get your feet wet to launch and retrieve around here. Also - they make carpet and carpet treatments / polymer slides. Just make sure you strap her down good front and rear if you want to slicken up the bunks. https://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Bunk-Glides/dp/B00CXADP02
Also curious where you attach in the front. I got these, which I think will be perfect for my paddleboard...if it ever gets delivered.
https://www.amazon.com/Sherpak-Built-U-S-Hood-Loops/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=hood+loops&qid=1557702207&s=gateway&sr=8-3
These have been awesome for me so far. It's ridiculous how useful something so simple can be.
Edit: Actually the pictures down show how these work. Here's a video that explains it better.
I have one about half way up on each side of the hood of my car (I have convenient bolts there) - I find that two tie downs at the front make it easier to see if anything is moving above my head as well as being more stable. I had an accident last year involving a failed rack and a 15 ft long yak, so I take the kind of care that someone who learned a lesson takes.
Thanks, good suggestion. I think my next purchase will be the Viper laser toe line (the sticker on the floor looks a little hillbilly)
On my old car I used tow hooks. On my current vehicle, I use the tow hitch in back and there is a part of the grill I can loop around that includes the frame. I would not suggest just a piece of the body, definitely go for the frame where ever you can get to it.
Hood loops are a good and inexpensive option for the front. Use a bolt inside the hood then just pull them out or tuck them in when using or not.
I highly recommend something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024ALDMS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522112820&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=hood+canoe+straps&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41P7694VwpL&amp;ref=plSrch
Get a yakima rail grab kit with 66" bars. The longer length will allow you to add things such as paddle mounts, strap stops, and even awnings. Plus more weight capacity and the boats will sit a little higher off the truck.
Quick loops are awesome for bow lines.
Sherpak Quick Loops (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024AVPO4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l4CuzbE696JZX
The straps are good, here is another option as well. I dont like the straps in my line of site when driving so I use the back doors and it works fine.
Nice truck! I got myself a pair of these a while back so my straps weren't rubbing...
Seattle Sports 078000 Sherpak Hood Loops, Pair (Black) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-1FBDb4Q6TRWF
Might be worth checking out in your case!
I use a boat roller like this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009PAAI5I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 , Seattle Sports Sherpak Boat Roller) to help me load my kayak onto my cartop racks from the rear of the vehicle.
Yes as long as your ropes and straps are tied off correctly. I recommend these straps in con junction with that kit.
Built U.S.A. Sherpak Hood Loops (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oRUMzbPXKMCJD
Not what OP used, but theselook useful.
So there's a "tow hole" under in the left front, you'll see it. It's a metal piece with a large hole and a smaller hole. I use these hooks. ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVFDM5W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) . They fit perfectly in the small hole.
The back also has a small hole in the metal frame the hook fits into.
As for scratching, this is my first time trying it out. From the looks of it there was a very tiny bit of scratching but now I've adjusted it and wrapped a microfiber towel around the rope that makes contact with the front/back.
I have the same method of loading except I use a boat roller instead of a mat. They have suction cups for attaching to my vehicle.
Seattle Sports Sherpak Suction Boat Roller Load Assist for Mounting Kayaks and Canoes to Car Tops, One Size, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PAAI5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KL3jDbVD31R0P
Easy fix...
https://www.amazon.com/Martin-Wheel-BK-1-Bearing-Repair/dp/B00C1ZQT6G/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504886304&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=trailer+bearing
and one of these...
https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-74177-Bearing-Protector/dp/B000CPCC4U/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B000CPCC4U&amp;pd_rd_r=8SB3ETSQRF2DC4K45F7P&amp;pd_rd_w=uxYHz&amp;pd_rd_wg=rkijq&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=8SB3ETSQRF2DC4K45F7P
Don't forget to tie down the front! I bought a pair of these from the suggestion of someone from the mazda3revolution forums. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024AVPO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I also wrapped the rope in some microfiber (where it touches the paint) to protect the car, but base don the length of the canoe, you won't need to worry about that.
Get yourself some hood loops and make the world a better place for everyone.
i use the goalpost thing in the back off my hitch receiver. and i use the foam blocks on the cab roof. it works well for me. i tie the front down using something like this it keeps everything tidy.
Look into getting something like these and tie the knot around them instead.
I have J bars and a set of these ratcheting cords to secure them.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XVFDM5W?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Oh ya, I saw 2 eyelets. One was threaded, one not. But what about the other end?
Nevermind, I will order a pair of these for the other end
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B07GF8FSF5/ref=sspa_mw_detail_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Check these out for more tie-down points:
Sherpak Hood Loops
Hood/Trunk Tie down Loops
Also, as others have said, you should look into a roof rack with stacker bars.
http://www.amazon.com/Seattle-Sports-Sherpak-Boat-Roller/dp/B009PAAI5I/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449468256&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=Kayak+loader
Buy one of these
I use these for my kayaks, but also not concerned with them rubbing the paint on my 06. They just fold under the hood when not using them. https://www.amazon.com/Built-U-S-Sherpak-Hood-Loops/dp/B0024ALDMS
> Trailer guide
Like these?
LE KAPMOZ Quick Hood Loops Trunk... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GF8FSF5?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
FishYuan Sentry Ratchet Kayak and Canoe Bow and Stern Tie Downs 1/4" Grow Light Heavy Duty Adjustable Rope Hanger (2-Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVFDM5W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_erFjDbWJCQMZH
>https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PAAI5I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KL3jDbVD31R0P
I have been trying for years
I use these under my hood and in my back hatch: https://www.amazon.com/Sherpak-078115-Quick-Loops-Pair/dp/B0024AVPO4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486403622&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=hood+loops
And I carry an 18-foot aluminum canoe on foam blocks just fine.
I use these for bow and stern lines and I have two of these bolted down under the hood of my truck (one on each side) as you can see here. I just direct hook in the back of the truck bed.
Just remember that they are just there to hold the boat in place while braking or accelerating, they are also good for keeping the boat in place during wind. That being said, don't crank them down as you can damage the boat.
As far as dragging your boat I don't recommend dragging it more than you have to. I will drag mine up onto the beach or on grass a bit to move it but if I am transporting it more than a few feet I pick it up.
Hell yeah! I'm going to pick up a set of these cheaper ones.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ALDMS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MUSFDb5W4R8MX
Thanks for the suggestion!
I'd go for a spinning combo personally, but a push button may be more your style i find they always get tangled and make it a pain to cast.
Go to walmart/bass pro/gander mountian. But something in the $30-$50 range. Depending on the age of your kid, those cartoon flavored ones in the pack may work too.
Get hooks, Size 10 arberdeen grab some bobbers Personally I like the balsa slip floats. Like this
Youll need some bobber stops too.
Get some Split shot sinkers
I'm a fan of 4lb zebco fishing line. it's like $2 at walmart for 500 yards. It'll give you line for 2 poles.
Now you'll rig up with your bobber stop, then bead, then bobber, then a couple weights and then a hook. Try to keep the weights about 12-18" above the hook. The bobber stop you can slide up and down your line and set it to whatever depth you want. If your slip bobber isn't pointing straight up that means your weights on the bottom and you need to adjust your slip bobber knot.
Pick up some worms or leaches and go to town. You'll want your bobber to barebly be able to keep up your bait, so you can see the strikes. If you have a big ass bobber a fish will never get it down.
These tube jig kits are usually a great deal too and catch anything. If they don't have hooks, you'll need jig hooks too. Something like this you could throw under a bobber too and try to keep your bait going up and down. Maybe put a worm on it too.
Here's a video where he uses some little jig heads and sutff too
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xmOiylyTltk
Should be able to get everything under $75. I added it all to a gander mountian cart. They had some specials on rod combos for $24.95. My cart total was $71.92
Rods :http://www.gandermountain.com/modperl/product/details.cgi?pdesc=Gander-Mountain-Competitor-Series-Spinning-Rod-Reel-Combo-56-Ultralight&amp;i=694266
How to rig a slip bobber: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAQUo7H4gYs