Your cigarette lighter is most likely continuously powered. Take out the dash cam power plug. Run the car for like 20 minutes (to charge it,) and then turn off the car, and use the cigarette lighter. If the lighter heats up so you can smoke, it is always powered.

Or take any other 12 v cig lighter device and plug it in, like a radar detector, or a defrost heat thing.

Anyways, most fuses in the fuse box (there are 2) are continuously powered. Do not use the fuse box under the hood if at all possible to avoid. Under/in the dashboard is the most common fuse box to use. There might be a 3rd fuse box on newer vehicles, which is in the trunk, this is fuse box is usable, but unfavorable for most. - For hardwiring. To complete the circuit, Tap a fuse to fuse box = positive; Ground wire to unpainted bolt/nut = negative; both must be connected to complete the circuit. Hardwire kits with low voltage/timer cut off is suggested, cheap ones exist, be careful to pick the correct one (Micro USB is common in cellphones vs Mini USB is common in dash cams) - Some dash cams are Micro however. Cheap kits are pre-set and unchangable, more expensive kits (Cheap $13 USD vs Expensive $24 USD) often make lackluster dash cams less attractive due to price. You could simply purchase an Excellent parking mode, Excellent build quality, Good/Fair video quality dash cam which will last longer.

There are many dash cams to choose, I would choose one with Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, and Good/Fair video quality. There are Fair/poor build quality, Lackluster parking mode, and Excellent video quality dash cams, but they don't last as long.

> If I wanted to do everything manually, I would use a GoPro instead. Any suggestions?

Dashcam + Micro SD card + Hardwire kit = cost. Different vendors offer different things included/excluded.

Discount code: Receive $10 off with "top5blackboxmycar" when shopping for a dash cam over $99.99 at BlackboxMyCar.com

*Note: I pulled a lot of links from BlackboxMyCar.com, but look around for the best price, I just wanted you to be aware of the discount code.

Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good/Fair video quality:

1 ch systems: These don't have wifi/cellphone app:

• Thinkware F50 1-CH ($69.99 USD) - Fair video quality, Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode. - Lacks a Wifi/cell phone app, but format free technology helps and reliability is top notch. - 1080P @ 30 FPS - ($69.99 USD) - 2nd vendor. ($90-110 USD) - 3rd vendor. - There is a coupon code for this one in the video description. Discount Code: blackboxmycarf50 to get $10 off from BlackboxMyCar.com
  
  
• BlackVue DR450-1CH ($119.99 USD) Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, lacks wifi, optional gps, lack of reviews. - 1080P @ 30 FPS Front
  
  2 ch systems (front/rear): Lacks Wifi/cellphone app.
  
  
• BlackVue DR430-2CH ($169.99 USD) - Lacks wifi - 720P @ 30 FPS Front / 720P @ 30 FPS Rear
  
  
• BlackVue DR470-2CH ($189.99 USD) - Lacks wifi - 1080P @ 30 FPS Front/ 720P @ 30 FPS Rear
  
  
• BlackVue DR490-2CH ($229.99 USD) - Lacks wifi - 1080P @ 30 FPS Front / 1080P @ 30 FPS Rear
  
  These have wifi/cellphone app:
  
  
• BlackSys CH-100B 2-Channel ($269.99 USD) - Excellent built quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality - Good day/Good night/Good shadow, built in wifi, optional GPS.
  
  
• BlackSys CH-200 2CH ($369.99 USD) - New lacks reviews.
  
  
• BlackVue DR650S-2CH ($360 USD) - Where to purchase Excellent built quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality - Good day/Good night/Good shadow, built in wifi, built in GPS. Capacitor 1080P Front 720P rear
  
  BlackVue DR650S-2CH Unique feature, Cellphone notifications of G sensor activation(s) in parking mode (Free), and cloud streaming feature (paid.) Maximum SD Card 128 GB (Micro SD)
  
  BlackVue over the cloud feature part 1
  
  BlackVue over the cloud feature part 2
  
  
• BlackVue DR750S-2CH Cloud ($390 USD) - New lacks reviews. - Front: 1080P @ 60 FPS, Rear: 1080P @ 30 FPS - Improvement over DR650S-2CH partitioned Micro SD card, for G sensor events/parking mode/regular recording modes. - Something that was missing in the previous BlackVue DR650S.
  
  
• Thinkware F770 ($360 USD) - Where to purchase Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, Good video quality - Good day/Superior night/Good shadow, built in wifi, built in gps. 1080P Front 1080P rear
  
  Thinkware F770: superior night vision & Dual Save mode Maximum SD Card 64GB (Micro SD)
  
  --------------
  
  Lackluster parking mode, fair/good/poor build quality, Excellent video quality: People pick these dash cams generally for video quality.
  
  
• A119 V2 ($80-100 USD) - V1 had minor flaws but is cheaper - V2 corrected some of those flaws and had firmware improvements. + Known problems of the A119 Excellent video quality day/good night/good shadow, good/fair build quality, lackluster parking mode. Discreet.
  
  
• A119S V2 ($100-120 USD) - This one has more potential but currently equal to the A119 due to lack of firmware improvements. - Currently lacks parking mode.
  
  
• Street Guardian SG9665GC ($234.95 USD Lackluster parking mode/ Excellent video quality, excellent build quality.
  
  -------------
  
  There is a huge amount of buyers remorse in dash cams. What I can say is fully research the dash cams you want, and the dash cams you don't, so at least you understand your decisions. Picking Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, and good/fair video quality dash cams is a lot less hassle, above I listed only Excellent build quality, Excellent parking mode, good/Fair video quality dash cams, but there are Excellent video quality, Fair/poor build quality, lackluster parking mode dash cams out there that is worth knowing about. Anyways good luck in your decisions.
  
  *Edit: Prices change rapidly in the dash cam market, however, the copy pasta does not. I have seen prices rise rapidly, and fall just as fast, for no apparent reason, even as newer models have been released.
  
  -----
  
  Cheap Hardwire kit ($12.95
  USD) - Some flaws but livable ones: Cold weather effects this kit, (trouble supplying dash cam with enough energy in cold weather) once car warms up it is fine. Short cable lengths (that little black box will end up on your dash board) most aren't bothered by that. Preset/unchangeable low voltage cut off (protects most vehicles but not all.) Lacks 2nd fuse 1-5 dollar fix from any hardware store. A119 and most dash cams are USB Mini, most cellphones are USB Micro. The Tap a fuse, should match your vehicle's fuses Fuse types. The kit will most likely come with ATO, or Mini, Mini low profile and Micro 2 are a bit more rare. - With a tap a fuse make sure to insulate the connection, no need to create a short. Use the smallest shrink wrap possible that will fit.
  
  More expensive hardwire kits:
  
  
• Power Magic Pro ($24 USD)
  
  
• multi-safer ($34.95 USD)
  
  
• Vico Power-Plus Battery Discharge Prevention (BDP) Device ($60 USD)

1. It will make a difference compared to a MacBook's line-out, or compared to most PC sound cards. If you have a very good sound card, it's possible it has a good DAC and good components/construction and you may not be able to tell, but many don't live up to the standards.
   

• Quick question - what kind of PC, what kind of sound card (if you know) and how are you connecting everything?
  
  

2. You absolutely can get a DAC that will improve your sound for around your budget. The step from default line-out to any DAC is huge, probably the biggest effect of all; the step from low-end DAC to high-end DAC is both more subtle and more costly. But make that first step!
   
   The major factor will be the quality of your other components—but with the B&W and the Rotels, if your ears are good you should be able to tell.
   
   Recommendations:
   
   

• nuForce - pretty much anything, the uDAC-II is their latest offering and is US$129 over here. It has a headphone amp built in, but the line outs are excellent as well.
  
  
• the HRT MusicStreamer - designed more for direct USB to Amp connectivity (basically what you're looking for) and gets good reviews. Has the extra advantage of being "asynch" if you believe in that sort of thing. US$149
  
  
• Firestone Fubar II Mk 2 - I had the first version of this little DAC and enjoyed it, but ultimately I like the nuForce uDAC better. The Mk 2 may be better, it advertises new components and a better signal path. US$169.
  
  
• This Creative X-Fi USB box looks pretty nice, and reviews give it high marks for fidelity, but looks like it might have some flaws in installation/setup. US$99.
  
  I currently listen to the nuForce uDAC-II, with both headphones and studio monitors, and I like it very much. As I said above, it beats my (first-revision) Fubar II mainly in the stereo imaging and musicality departments, especially when used as a desktop DAC with the line outs. The Fubar was accurate as anything, but was a little flat to listen to for my taste. The Mk 2 may have improved things and in any case it's a very good DAC for desktop use. The others I have not listened to, but I hear very good things about the HRT MusicStreamer, and the Creative X-Fi product is bound to sound great, barring any difficulties you might have with installation.
  
  Any of those DACs I am confident will give you an improvement in sound. Listen in the details; the tightness of the bass, the smoothness of voice, the sparkle of the treble, the placement of sound in the stereo image; all of those will be clearly and (hopefully) obviously improved with a good DAC if you're comparing from a default line-out. The first time you hear the difference it'll sorta knock your socks off...
  
  Then again, if you don't hear a difference with your Apogee Duet II... perhaps it won't be that big a deal, and you can save yourself the investment. Also, is there a reason you can't use the Apogee with the PC or do you just want a dedicated connection for it? Another factor will be the source material, so make sure you're putting through CDs or lossless audio files, or at the minimum very high quality mp3's. Low bit-rate mp3's will sound pretty much the same regardless of the DAC you put them through...
  
  tl;dr: In my experience a good DAC makes a huge difference, there are lots in your price range, make sure you'll be able to hear the difference in the investment, good luck, let us know how it turns out :)
  
  (P.S: if it's ok to say so I'd be happy to sell you (or anyone else ;) my Fubar II (original version) for US$100. PM me if you want it!)

I'm /u/whitefeather14's friend. If it's solely for headphones and you're not looking to spend a lot, then I would strongly recommend something by Fiio. I have an older one, the FiiO E7. They don't sell this one anymore, but they have a newer one called the FiiO E70k. I haven't personally used it, but I can only assume it's like mine but better.

If it's a little more than you want to spend, then I'd look at the Q1. I've heard good things about these as well.

These are nice, because they double as a USB dac and a portable headphone amplifier. Which means if you're traveling or something you can plug your phone into it and still get the amplifier out of it, no need for a USB source.

If that doesn't interest you, then there's the FiiO K1, which is just a USB DAC, and does not have an analog 3.5mm input, only the micro USB.

Now, understand that any of these aren't going to be the greatest DAC ever. Sub $100 is pretty cheap for a DAC, and I'm pretty sure these are all 24-bit, with 32-bit being more or less the best you can get (There's some debate on whether or not you can hear a difference, but that's entirely a different conversation.)

If you do want something a little more pricey and nice, the Schiit Modi DAC and Magni amp are really quite nice. They also have a Amp/DAC combination for $80 which I haven't heard anything about, but Schiit is pretty good.

The one /u/whitefeather14 said is a PreSonus AudioBox USB. You probably don't want this, as it is primarily an audio interface for recording instruments and microphones, and isn't a dedicated DAC, though the DAC is pretty nice, and as a bonus has a 1/4in headphone out as well as two 1/4in outs for L/R powered speakers, such as studio monitors, if that's of any benefit for you.

As for the SMSL one you posted, I have also heard good things about that one, though it's a desktop unit and does not have an analog 3.5mm input.

Let me know if you have any questions, I'm happy to help.

This will be my second time typing this out, since I hit the fucking Browser-Back shortcut on my mouse.

I wouldn't recommend the Koss Plugs as a set of mixing phones, even while travelling. The clarity is simply nonexistant. My suggestion is just to use them as a second pair to check out your bassline before you finalize a track. For something more balanced, you might want to set aside an hour or two and drag your eyeballs over this thread over at head-fi.

As an off-the-cuff recommendation, Velodyne vPulse have gained quite a reputation in the under-$150 category. they have plenty of bass output, but it's much tighter than the Koss, no muddiness. They also get plenty of compliments on the detail in the midrange/treble.

/r/Audiophile is a great resource, as is /r/Headphones, but to save yourself from shame, I will tell you ahead of time, anything called a soundcard will almost certainly get you laughed out.

Puts on top hat and monocle, raising a cup of tea with the pinky out

>A gentleman uses a DAC with a seperate Headphone Amplifier.

In all fairness a soundcard is nothing but a DAC with a built-on amp, though the integrated amp circuits are terrible, in terms of audio reproduction.

You can get a DAC and feed an amp with it, or you can get a DAC/Amp combo, which is a popular place to begin, and is a great solution for a personal digital studio, especially if you use your laptop as a creative device away from home. The most recommended (for good reason) is the FiiO e7. It performes both the DAC and amplifier functions, as well as including an input jack and a battery so you can stick it in your pocket and connect it to your ipod/phone/whatever and increase the quality of your portable listening as well (This bypasses the DAC and only uses the amp). The only drawback to the e7 is that the amp is kind of puny. Mind you it is still more powerful than whatever is built into your devices, but it can leave you wanting if you have some high-end, high-impedance headphones. To solve that, you can either get a FiiO e9 amplifier to leave on your desk and dock the e7 to when you are at home, or you can pick up a FiiO e17 which is almost identical to the e7, but with more juice to the amp. You mentioned a speaker setup at home, so you would also want a FiiO l7 line out plug so you could run the un-amped output of the DAC to your speakers. Keep in mind, none of this passes as "Audiophile grade" hardware, but it's certainly (digital) studio quality.

All in all, an e7 and a pair of vPulse IEMs would set you back about $150, give you the low-end you need, a full-up system you could pack in your pocket while you're on the move, and also boost the quality of your 8400's, and whatever monitors you choose at home.

I'll get off my soapbox now. Hopefully that gives you a head start on your research.

.

.

.

^tiny ^disclaimer: I don't work for FiiO, I'm not trying to sell you FiiO stuff, I don't even use FiiO myself. They just have a great reputation, and market at a reasonable price-range.

For Dota you really should be set with just what's in your macbook. I know you can definitely run all of the borderlands games on that hardware as well, but an eGPU will certainly let you max it out and get higher performance. I am currently running a 980 off of my MacBook Air and it's delightful.

At this stage of eGPUs with macs there are a couple things to keep in mind. First, there is no out-of-the-box solution yet that isn't a ripoff. Most will require a little bit of tinkering, especially the cheaper solutions. This is not at all to discourage you, as there are a lot of great guides and some great communities, but just as a warning. Secondly, you won't be able to get the performance you're looking for on the internal display, you'll need to run it through an external monitor.

For your $300-400 budget, I would advise you to get the AKiTiO Thunder2 Thunderbolt to PCIe expansion chassis. It's $189 and is probably exactly what you need. It requires a very small modification to be able to power a desktop GPU, and if you get a card that has low enough power consumption you can run it all through a special Dell power brick (DA-2)with very minimal modification. The whole solution is actually relatively portable if you chose this option. So that puts you at ~$200-250 for the setup, then all you need is a graphics card.

I am quite partial to Nvidia, but they can run slightly more expensive, but they have other bonuses. Nevertheless, do your own research on what kind of card you want, from what you said anything from the 7xx and 9xx series would work for you, but honestly so could a couple 6xx series cards. As I said I'm not too knowledgeable on AMD so do some research when picking out your card on both fronts, just make sure it's power consumption will work with the set-up.

I am a huge eGPU advocate and if anything wasn't clear feel free to PM me or whatever and I'm more than happy to discuss it. If you're not keen on that, TechInferno has what is arguably the best eGPU community and knowledge/support base around. Definitely check them out regardless as they have a ton of guides and people probably in your same situation that will give you an idea of what you're looking at time/money/difficulty wise.

Cheers!

Edit - added links

I second the external USB sound card/device. Depending on how high quality you want to go and what kind of amplification you want, there are lots of options.

Turtle Beach makes one for slightly cheaper that looks decent.

The soundblaster above is probably a pretty good bet.

There are a whole bunch of off-brand USB sticks for around $15 that probably won't cut it.

There are external boxes, like the Creative Labs X-Fi soundblaster box, in the $60-80 range but probably better.

And for real good fidelity, you start getting into the USB DAC range. Highly recommended if you have good ears/headphones. These can range from $100 to over $500 depending on what you want... a few recommendations:

• The Audiophile Products FireEye II (Dac+Headphone Amp, $97)
  
• NuForce uDAC-II $129 (or uDAC-II-HP for headphones only, without RCA outputs, $99)
  
• FiiO E7 USB DAC/Headphone Amp ($99)
  
  If that's in your price range then you'll enjoy the sound out of any of them, but check reviews and shop around, see what people think. I have the nuForce uDAC and really enjoy listening to it, so I can definitely recommend that based on experience.
  
  Best of luck!

> good alternatives to these headphones with good bang for my buck

I got a chance to demo those Sonys. Can't say enough good things about them.

Also worth looking into Audio-Technica AT-M70X ($223). AT's new flagship monitor headphone with an amazing sound. Definitely gives the Sonys a run for their money, especially with such a competitive price. I might even like them better.

I'm also quite fond of NAD Viso HP50 ($249). Just an incredible closed-back can.

>amp designed for headphone listening, that I can plug into my Macbook pro and that is hopefully less than $100.

Nothing really worth looking at under $100. Maybe Creative E3 ($99) or Topping TP30 ($99).

However, if you save money on headphones by going with the AT-M70X or the Sennheiser Momentum 2.0 (which are on sale for like $149), you could put the money you saved towards a better amp/DAC.

So if we assume a budget of, say, $200 for an amp/DAC, you can step up to something like Creative E5 ($189), Fiio E17 ($139) (it's even portable!), or Topping TP32EX ($159). Fiio probably makes the best offering in this range.

1. What is your budget?
   
   
2. 4K is still being worked on and improved. What you're describing is almost impossible and super expensive.
   
   
3. Don't do SLI. People have a lot of problems and they don't always work with all games anyway. Stick with one good GPU, like a 1070.
   
   
4. There's really no need for a Titan X unless you're a professional videographer or graphics editor. That's beyond overkill. A 1070 is more than enough for any gamer today.
   
   
5. You went overkill on some parts but only listed 16 GB of RAM. You should go with 32.
   
   
6. You didn't include your audio options like a DAC, amp, or speakers, and could have listed a better headset. I have the Sennheiser PC 363D (Amazon link) for gaming and watching TV/movies, and it's awesome. For listening to music, I use Sennheiser HD 598 SE (Amazon link). For your PC audio, you want good speakers. Check out the JBL LSR305 (Amazon link). You want a decent DAC, so check out the Schiit Modi 2 or Modi 2 Uber (Amazon link for Modi 2) (Amazon link for Modi 2 Uber). You could even get the Schiit Bifrost. Depending on what headphones you get, you might also want an amp like the Schiit Magni 2. Many people call it a Schiit-stack when you have both a Schiit DAC and amp together, usually the Modi 2 and Magni 2. You could also check out the new combo DAC/amp, Schiit Jotunheim. I found some great deals on eBay and paid about half the retail price for a Schiit Bifrost Uber DAC. Some other options are: JDSLABS Objective2 + ODAC Combo, Cambridge Audio DacMagic XS v2, Micca OriGen+, Fiio E17K, AudioQuest DragonFly, and Audioengine D1. Some great people helped me learn about audio from /r/BudgetAudiophile /r/audiophile /r/Audio.
   
   
7. Make the list with PC Part Picker Australia so it's easier for everyone to see.

looking at your rabbitears it seems that the stations that are south of the home are weak... but as an added bonus the broadcast towers that are south of you are pointing their signal south and away from you... so thats good if you don't want to be infiltrated by evil tv waves... but

one thing you have going for you is even your strongest signal from the northeast is weak its about 35db and most tvs will max out at about 90db but really you give yourself another 10db or so of buffer because these signal levels are approximate they could be slightly higher or lower.

so a real large and strong antenna will give you about 12-16db of boost... so you have your 35 + 15 = 50db ...

so that means you can use a strong preamp on that antenna like a ChannelMaster 7777 30db gain amp... the brand new ones are 26db i think not sure if you're gonna get a older one someplace.

so that will get you 80db of power maybe on your strongest signal maybe... and bring the other signals up to the 70's ... maybe... which is pretty good...

but power and signal quality are different.. you have to have signal for it to be amped and if the signal is flaky then you are amping flaky signal... but if the signal is flaky because it drops weak a bit then maybe a preamp right at the antenna will help a lot.

I am 60+ miles out in a few directions.... I picked 2 of those directions and pointed the very large full size 9 foot long and wide antennas at these broadcast towers.......... I then added CM7777 amps to each antenna... I combine them with a special coax splitter and then I run that cable to a distribution amp that has 8 ports to feed the rooms.. the distribution amp bumps the signal 4 more db .. So I have my 12db antenna + 30db of amp + 4db of distribution amp... I only have one splitter to combine the two antennas...

My strongest signal is 36db my weakest signal that i get really well is 7db .. I do at times get signals rated below 0 depending on weather conditions... normally rain makes things better because the signals that would bounce out into space bounce back off the clouds and to the ground... which is weird... also when a storm is behind a distant station it bounces that signal back towards me.... but those stations are not dependable only the ones about 7db and higher I can count on to be available all day every day.

loose wire crimps or improperly made crimps on wires are a big factor... they have to be good. that white plastic center insulator should come into the connector until its flush on the bottom when you look inside the connector.. it shouldn't be recessed.. it should be on the inside floor of the connector with the center copper wire poking all the way out of the connector about 1/4 inch. and they have to be tight and not spin on the wire or be loose.

then ummmmm splitters... splitters suck all the life out of your system so you have to use a distribution amp when you have low level signals. a regular 2 port out splitter will steal 50% of your signal.. the more ports the more they steal -3.5 to -11db .. not good so you run your antenna directly to the distribution amp and then you feed each room off the distribution amp.

If you need to (you don't) use a combiner / splitter like i am to combine 2 antennas you only use special power passing splitter to let the dc power for the amps to get through.

....................

so ... big antenna (you have no hopes of fox without a big antenna outside on the roof) pointed southeast at 125deg .. big amp... distribution amp... check your cable connectors.. don't use extra splitters

Big antenna like this

https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Universal-Outdoor-Element-ANT3036Z/dp/B00009W3BW

PreAmp

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-CM-7777-Antenna-Preamplifier/dp/B000GGKOG8/

Distribution Amp

https://www.amazon.com/Channel-Master-Distribution-Amplifier-Antenna/dp/B001PI09SE/

but like I said your signal is bad and in some cases its pointed away from you.

good luck :o)

edit as for you... you need the same (the strongest you can get) and maybe a small tower

For those of you interested:
This Akitio Thunder2 is mostly all you need to connect a discrete graphics card to your Thunderbolt 2/3 port.
A user named nando4, found here on TechInferno's DIY eGPU section has done a lot of work to make DIY eGPU's a reality.
All else you need is a PSU with a jumper, if your card uses more than PCI-Express's 75W and an enclosure if you use a particularly large card.
Beyond that, most guides recommend using an Nvidia GPU because their use of Optimus allows you to use your internal notebook display, not requiring an external display to use your graphics card.
However, there's also a performance hit of around 7-10% if you use an internal LCD.
AMD cards are supported if you're doing an external display.
With Windows 8.1, the device and setup is mostly plug and play, but there are workarounds if necessary.
The total cost for an enclosure plus Akitio plus a PSU, if you utilize the group buy on TechInferno is easily under $300.
This is a very affordable option to someone who uses a MacBook for software work, wants to game, but doesn't want to invest into a full desktop.
This is also amazing for the same person who wants something to carry to a LAN event, but doesn't want to carry around a large PC.
This is also great for someone who travels a lot, who has a notebook with TB ports, who wants to game while traveling for work.
This is also great for someone who does complex rendering, animation or editing or video work and doesn't want to carry around a Mac Pro.
Overall, this is just great.

First of all, door speakers are not made for bass at all and that's probably why they are all blown.... The front speakers are 6.5 and the rear deck is 6x9. The headunit will power 4 speakers, so two front and two rear. The way the headunit does that is it has a internal amplifier. So for a substage you will need a external amp (depending on subwoofer). The RCAs on the back of the headunit go to the sub amp for signal. So for speakers, you said you have a tweeter mount in the front, so you will want a component set of speakers. Which means the mid driver and tweeter are separate as compared to something like a coaxial speaker. [Here] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ) is a nice of 6.5 component speakers. They are entry level but one of the best entry level. And for the back we will keep it Polk DB for all around the same sound, so [these.] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW) So with this setup you will have good clear sound in the front, and good sound in the back and should sound all the same, expect the front will sound better sense component speakers also have a separate crossover which filters frequencies so your speakers will play the correct Hz. Now about the substage we need some questions answered first. SPL (loudness), SQ (sound quality), or SQL (a mix)? Type of music you listen to? Willing to build a box? How much of the trunk space do you want to keep? Most, some, or "anything for bass bro" style which is none.

I've only had mine for a few weeks, but I love it so far. I purchased mine as an upgrade from a [G1W] (www.amazon.com/dp/B00HMNFWYW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3CWQyb06CKB1G) I had before. I'm not too knowledgeable on specs and whatnot, But I wanted something reliable that wouldn't break the bank. The reviews were good, the price was right and it serves my purpose perfectly. I hardwired mine and it sits up and out of the way but within arms reach if I need to snap a picture for any reason. [Here] (http://imgur.com/q2iV9n2) it is if you're interested. I can also upload couple of clips when I get home if you'd like. Cheers!!

Dashcam is a cheap way to have an extra peace of mind. Definitely recommend it. Also they are low maintenance. I don’t ever notice mine because it sits in front in rear view mirror.

Regarding the price, I say go for a mid range. The cheapo ones can be unreliable and low build quality. The expensive ones tend to be too much and more than what most people need. A good mid range dual cam is the A129. Make sure to get a good SD card too, one that is optimized for video. Fortunately they are pretty cheap.

Installation is easy if you just plug it to your cigarette lighter. Then you just run the cable in your trim, which is super easy to tuck into at the edge.

The next level is hardwiring it to your fuse box. That takes about an hour and can be done with a YouTube video instructional. Or take it into a car audio shop and they can probably do it for $150 or so.

Hope this helps!

Ok, so from the HD 5000 you'd get about a 50% bump in performance. Ok but I think you could do better. The GT 740 is a low-end graphics card, which often means you're getting less value than a midrange card, which are a little bit more money but a lot faster.

Is your goal "as cheap as possible" or do you have a budget?

It seems based on your parts list that you were willing to spend at least $65 on a GT 740, $50 for the cheapest Corsair 450W PSU depending on which model you meant, $170 on the thunderbolt adapter, and $70 on the other part. Minimum Total: $355. So I'll go with that.

Get that Thunderbolt->PCIe adapter for $217.

Get a powered PCIe riser, that's $7

Get a power supply, this EVGA 500W is $40 without rebate.

That's $264, leaving $91 for a card. Let's say you can spend $90-100. My top pick would be the R7 265 for $100, but I'd go with either the R7 360 or GTX 750Ti. These cards are more like 300-400% faster for only a little more money.

EDIT: Here is a guide from someone else doing it, they recommend EVGA brand Nvidia cards, which would be a little more money. Here are some good ones. With either of these you could get away with this $27 power supply instead: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-power-supply-100n10400l1

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-02gp43753kr

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/evga-video-card-02gp42957kr

> The Polk components are quality but really need the additional wattage of an amplifier to sound their best

I hear this a lot and the more I learn about audio components, the less sense this makes. Any type of speaker is going to sound 'better' with an external amp in the right circumstances. IE, powering them beyond what your head unit's amp is capable of.

But, component speakers aren't some kind of mystical audio unicorn. They're essentially the same thing as a coaxial speaker (separate drivers to reproduced limited bands of audio). The difference between a coaxial and a set of components is A) a better crossover, B) a larger tweeter, and C) separate components so that the tweeter can be placed for better sound imaging. These features aren't anything to scoff at, but they don't require an amp to function.

OP shouldn't shy away from getting a component set because they won't have an amp. Especially with the Polk db6501 available for less than $130. Those speakers will still sound good running off of the head unit's amp. Particularly if he doesn't have second front channel speakers installed in the dash/A pillar/sail panel/upper door already.

This post isn't meant to attack you personally, just questioning the conventional wisdom that component speakers 'really need an amp to sound their best'.

I bought one a couple months ago and I love it. I've actually recorded one accident at an intersection already (luckily not my own) and was able to offer the footage to those involved and the police if they needed it. After doing some research I heard a lot of good things about the G1W. There are knockoffs, but the one I got from "Black Box" on amazon appears to be legit. I got the "stealth" one as well for less glare from it. Here's the links to everything you need it you want to pick up a good one for a good price:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HMNFWYW

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00CES44EO

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JWGC29U

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00L3XXRI0

If you've got prime (which you should because it's fuckin awesome. Seriously get it or find a friend with it and get on theirs) then this whole setup almost exactly a hundred bucks and you're all set to go.

PS, great car, how long have you had her? Sorry to see the damage.

I spent a little over $1000 for a phantom 2, a gopro 4 black, a 2 axis gimbal and a couple other random things like extra batteries and carrying case. The older model phantom 2 (I got mine on ebay) goes for a bout $550 with the remote and a battery but without the zenmuse gimbal. The gopro was $500. The gimbal was $50 from china and it works amazingly well. Just as good as the h3-2d imo. those three things are pretty much all you need to start getting some good shots. So for about $1100 you could have a very good aerial rig. If you're looking for fpv also you can find really god kits for around $300. I threw together a cheap FPV kit of my own with stuff I found on Amazon. $38 Transmitter/Receiver $26 Monitor $7 Antenna set $10 Gopro Video Cable $17 3s lipo

You should try posting over on /r/multicopterbuilds. Its a new sub that operates like /r/buildapcforme. Users post their requirements and budget, with other specifics like in your OP, and then other users reply with formatted build lists that look like this:

[Formatted Example Response Post]

Component | Recommendation | Price
---|---|----
Frame | ZMR250 | $38.00
Motors | SunnySky 2204 2300kv | $84.00
ESC's | MRM 12A Simonk | $46.00
Flight Controller | Naze32 | $22.00
Transmitter (TX) | Turnigy 9X | $60.00
Receiver (RX) | Turnigy 9X8C-V2 | Included with TX
Battery | 3S 1300mAh 30C | $11.00
Battery Lead | 16AWG Wire and XT60 | $2.00
Propellers | HQProp 6030 | $3.00
FPV Camera | Sony Boardcam | $26.00
Recording Camera | N/A | N/A
Gimbal | N/A | N/A
Servos | N/A | N/A
vTX/RX | Boscam 200mW 5.8GHz | $40.00
Screen | 7" LCD | $28.00
Total | With FPV | $360.00
Total | Without FPV | $266.00

Notes:

• You can get a much better radio. I recommend just adding to your budget. It's worth while. Search /r/multicopter for reasons why it's better! And the total only comes up to about $430.00 if you can wait for FPV.
  
  
• If you want to add FPV eventually, you need to have an amateur radio license (technician level at least) to operate legally.
  
  
• There are always additional little costs such as heat shrink, battery straps, etc.
  
  
• Try to supply all my parts from the US. Mainly for shipping speed reasons! ;) The parts on this list that aren't from the US are the Radio TX and the Camera. The Taranis radio can be bought in the US, and the boardcam probably can too for a bit of a premium.

For safe shut downs, charging warnings, and charging status - Adafruit PowerBoost 1000 Charger - Rechargeable 5V Lipo USB Boost @ 1A - 1000C-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BMRBTH2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Shell used-Gametown® Full Housing Shell Cover Case Pack with Screwdriver for Nintendo Gameboy Classic/Original GB DMG-01 Repair Part-White (pick whatever color you want)-Purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1C2L1C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Screen used- BW 3.5 Inch TFT LCD Monitor For Car/Automobile – purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045IIZKU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (side note here is that in order to make this fit nicer, I installed it upside down in the case.

Speak used - uxcell 16pcs 27mm External Magnetic Speaker Loudspeaker 8 Ohm 0.25W, purchased from amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010V4RAAW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (do not put ANYTHING on the top of the speaker when you install or it will not work.

Prototyping bread board, I purchased from amazon but it is no longer available at the link.

I used this PCB for the buttons on 1 build, the drill guide is VERY useful for this project. - 4 Button PCB For Gameboy DMG-01DIY Pi Zero Made In USA With Grounds and Hole Guide BY:Atomic Market, purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JKJCQVM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

L-R buttons- 100 Pcs 6 x 6mm x 9.5mm PCB Momentary Tactile Tact Push Button Switch 4 Pin DIP, purchased at amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008420WOA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

28 Gauge Wire - Ribbon Cable - 10 Wire (15ft), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R9SQQM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (I recommend going to a smaller (higher) gauge than 28. 30 or 32 would have made it a lot easer but 28 will do.

Indicator lights, Uxcell a11092800ux0119 Uxcell (Pack of 75), purchased at amazon, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0TCXSW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (these are totally optional)

Resistors and capicitors (audio), purchased from https://www.taydaelectronics.com Note: heres the guide I used for the audio too! https://sudomod.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=480

Old Gameboy game cartridge. For aesthetics.
Headphone jack, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-5mm-Stereo-Female-Socket-Audio-Jack-5Pin-PCB-Panel-Mount-Connector-PJ325-/400959590673

Volume wheel, ebay, https://www.ebay.com/itm/20pcs-B103-16x2mm-10K-Ohm-Double-Dial-Taper-Volume-Wheel-Duplex-PotentiometerBS/293146992835?epid=11009192051&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item4440ec20c3:g:NZkAAOSw3h1ZUavq&enc=AQAEAAAB0BPxNw%2BVj6nta7CKEs3N0qUCHDbWKwW7sKftQNu9OoIx7SAZoMMNoO7ZC%2BQU2m6tHizIeixg2Hdk8yQin%2B7yNcIdtTzT%2FneqdaLt1WntvDDMDNnZ9%2BCyBsPWRiKLCNPKdeaaZNnBjMoVA%2F0tK%2BtG7DVLtcUKV1a4ZUD8%2F3Lgu9eesPLoBiXZs77Vo7R%2FDaZVMV%2FquPTyLO%2FBFipuEkim1t7BIMiLOi2P3Z31r4yxIdLUw6SCVesvVeqBQuoKov776Dxzk8pUY7PZvu4Q3ULnqBWmlWXsKXc8iAp9juNxUBFHnDgW6A7iElTGYe0sQRXfFHW73jI62f5aO%2FnqGANNK%2F7KJlu474aR3Gae9%2FJCT%2FwoLqmBb4FfizrUJ6qKEuVeLAi31kJSoJXIv4msi3r0bMNSm2D7FL5DUBr0Bc4xsSPi7KFWI9AhmQjUn%2FsLVysgEKd8QEildi1DULaVOX11bv95PGoXvfAusYXSi5NQZk4oZJHr6QIjXu5w4e9Nd2lFtmG4ZB%2BkqROOwwliad72iafj6cbSLphBAjtWGZQVNbmcdKXG6S8h7cTVqt0aD4oej7%2BlDVihmo%2BV0Rc2MhA9FgkM%2BcyzPd0qc9vHvdxjpQUq&checksum=2931469928353c744c25da8843a496116014d4766745

Micro SD card (16 GB minimum)

Female Micro usb Port, (I know I did buy these but I can’t find the link. I bought female micro usb ports to make charging easier.)

I want to say this is the battery that I used, specifically because after taking the shell off it was the perfect fit inside of a gutted Gameboy Game cartridge-https://www.bestbuy.com/site/mycharge-razorplus-4000mah-portable-charger-for-most-usb-enabled-devices-silver/6292246.p?skuId=6292246

3d printed button wells-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-button-wells/

Extra buttons-https://www.retromodding.com/collections/gameboy

Screw bracket-http://market.sudomod.com/3d-printed-gbz-screw-bracket/

I got A LOT of buttons, glass screen shields, the other three builds button PCBs, some stickers, seriously a lot of stuff from https://store.kitsch-bent.com/ his store is unfortunately closed as he has had life catch up to him and has some shit to attend to. If he comes back online show him some love.

Stuff I got from kitsch
PCB board with LR input points
Buttons for X/Y (you can opt to just get replacement snes or an extra set of Gameboy buttons.
Glass screen that fit the GB shell after removing extra plastic


And obviously you should have a pi zero/w as well a shit ton of patience.

At $200 you don't have a lot of options for Spotify capable DAPs as you surmised. An AMP/DAC would probably be the way to go if you're looking to put a little more juice into your current IEMs. FiiO is definitely well regarded in the price range you are looking at. I think the next best portable amp I see recommended regularly is the Oppo ha-2 at around $300 new. Like I said, I had buzzing with the my E18, but /u/AV3Nguyen didn't. I've seen others [claim to have this issue](https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones/comments/5386ko/fiio_e18k_gsm_interference/ too, suggesting that it has to do with GSM networks, so it might not matter to you either way. Otherwise the E17K is a perfectly fine option. You'd even have the option to upgrade to the docking unit if you wanted. Your mileage may vary with all of this, of course, since a lot of IEMs aren't very power hungry. You might not notice much more than a bump in your potential volume, but it will future proof you should you want to pick up something that needs a bit more oomph.

The third option would be to put the money towards a slightly better phone with the features you want, unless there's a reason you'd prefer to have your music on a separate unit. The LG v10 and v20(not yet out) have good DAC/Amps, so those might be options if your carrier allows, though I don't know how much you were going to spend on the phone.

Normally you spend money on the front speakers and even go without rear 6x9's
That being said you can also save a few bucks on a 2 channel amp to run the just front speakers.

Shoving a pair of 6x9's in the rear dash when you have a 15 inch subwoofer in the trunk can sometimes be counter productive when you can leave the 6x9 rear speaker holes empty to allow the bass to more easily make it inside the cabin of the car.

Considering I have a round about estimate of your budget this is what I would do:

Sub amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1468928854&sr=8-48&keywords=3+channel+amplifier

Subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929161&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=sundown+e12+d2

Subwoofer box:
https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12LSV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT12/ref=sr_1_10?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1468929607&sr=1-10&keywords=12+inch+subwoofer+box

Front speaker amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929435&sr=8-3&keywords=2+channel+amplifier

Front speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

or if you can spring for a few more bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-2&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

You will still need an amplifier wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B00PB4BEE6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929693&sr=8-12&keywords=amplifier+kit

Why do I recommend this setup?
For the money you are spending and the music you are listening to this will be the best value.

The 15 inch kicker subwoofer you picked is ok but the 12 inch Sundown subwoofer will play lower and hit harder in the proper box. Ive installed both of these subs in the past and the 12 inch Sundown is a phenomenal sub and the Kicker is no comparison.

Subwoofer box:
The subwoofer box you picked out isn't really that expensive when talking about the cost of a quality built sub box. However, the box you picked out is a small sealed enclosure. This will limit the really low frequencies your subwoofer could produce if in a larger box. A lot of the time it is better to opt for a smaller size sub in a larger ported enclosure for producing low frequencies such as rap and dubstep than a larger sub in a small sealed enclosure.

Amplifier:
You picked out two different amplifiers. The sub amp I recommended has a higher rms output rating and better quality components. The amp for the full range speakers has the same better specs. You also picked out a 4 channel amp which is a waste of money when you can get more out of a 2 channel amp. 2 channel amps can still power 4 speakers if wired properly. Although, I would suggest forgetting about upgrading rear 6x9's and upgrade the front stage.

Front speakers:
The front speakers I recommended are some of the best sounding speakers I have installed at their price point. The front speakers are the most important more over the rear speakers because that is where you are setting. I recommended the 6.5 because I believe those are the requirements for your car. If not then opt for the 5.25 of the same line

Note: I am a professional installer with 22 years of experience and have installed more systems than most people ever get to hear in a lifetime.

First of all let me say that I do not have the A119 so I don't have hands-on experience but I do know something about it.

It does NOT record in 1440 @ 60fps. I don't know where you saw the SpyTec listing saying otherwise but the SpyTec web site clearly states that it is 30fps.

The video image quality has been described as "very good, colors are clear and bright, license plates are generally easy to read even when driving by" Quite honestly, no dashcam can read all license plates all the time, factors such as the reflective coating on the plates, shadows, headlights shining directly onto the plate, etc. but they say that the A119 manages better than a lot of dashcams.

From the video samples that I have seen the A119 appears to cope better than a lot of other dashcams when driving towards the sun. Of course, the more that the lens is pointing towards the sun the worse it is, that's why we always advise that there should be about 1/3 sky and 2/3 earth in the viewing angle, even though in most cases it will mean that some or all of the car hood is in the picture, which seems that a lot of people try to avoid.

Since the dashcam contains capacitors instead of a battery there should be no problem with coping with temperature highs and lows although one does have to use some common sense if the sun is blazing down on your car, and there may be times that you have to remove it.

As for hardwiring the dashcam, it's not difficult at all. You will need to purchase a hardwiring kit, something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Spy-Tec-Dash-Camera-Vehicle/dp/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481139941&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=Multisafer+hardwire+kit and all you have to do is connect a couple of wire to your fuse box. You can see more kits and read about hardwiring in this excellent, short article here:
https://www.carcamcentral.com/guide/guide-parked-recording-dash-cameras#Programmable

Just one more thing, if you can wait about a week, there will be an upgraded version of the A119 called the A119S which will be listed on Amazon. It is even better video quality-wise.

I've never cared for "the best" terms, I'm more into what fits for you and your budget. I got a dashcam and it lasted all but two years, the battery inside "popped" which caused the screen to go all blue. Not sure if the Texas heat or age got to it, my truck is parked in a carport and only gets mild evening sun.

So I bought this one from in 2016 for my front dash Amazon so far it does the job. If you hardwire it in make sure it has constant power even when the ignition is off since it is all capacitor the date and time will reset after so many hours without power.

This one is my rear camera, I got it free with gift cards when it was $25 and it has muted colors, trees are brownish, but it is okay for a rear dash.

The next upgrade I'd like is the YI dash cam

The top-priced BlackVue dash cams and battery packs along with Go Pro 6 not sure I'd leave these displayed in my vehicle, but if you want to spend that kind of money those are top priced.

Look into getting 32 or 64GB sd card and a mount for the mirror, the Texas heat on sticker types or suction will take a toll, mine are suction based and fall off randomly.

You'll find tons of "best of" videos and really will come away more confused. They all do the same basic operations, some link with your phone which is good for showing police or insurance, some track your speed and GPS, so those extras come with a price.

Pro tip: If you're ever involved in an accident or witness to one with a dashcam, do not ever mention you have a dashcam, get the information needed and let the video speak for you to police or the insurance company only.

You'll have to be thrifty @ $500, but I think you can put something together that sounds good.

• $250 - Small sealed sub and amp
  
• $250 - Two sets of component door speakers and 4-channel amp
  
• $100 - wiring kit, harness adapters, etc.
  
• $100 - cd deck with Bluetooth to pair your phone to.
  
  I have a 5-channel amp in my truck with 4x 75w (only using two channels here) and 1x 350 w for the sub. It's plenty loud. The 5 channel is nice for simplicity, but doesn't leave any room to grow if you decide you need a bigger sub or something.
  
  People talk about powered subwoofers on here once in a while, you'll find recommendations if you search. E.g. https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P300-12-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B007AQ2W6W/
  
  You might need to play with the sub position to get it to sound good in teh van (might resonate at some frequency in the back corner but sound better a few feet forward, etc. TBD. If you give it a few feet of cord, you can move it to the back fo the van when you''re listening to music ouside the back doors.
  
  These are affordable and sound good: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ANI3LAK/
  https://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-KMM-BT322-Player-Bluetooth-sirius/dp/B07CNWRC65
  
  

I use a Thinkware F750 with rear camera attachment. Quite pleased with it. You can get front camera and rear attachment here in town at Best Buy or on Amazon. Has on board GPS plus other nifty features like lane departure and forward collision warnings. It also has a speed camera database. We got rid of our cameras years ago, but I got to watch the feature in action when I was in Phoenix a few weeks ago, and it works very well, with an audible distance callout.

If that's too rich for your blood, the Rexing V1 is an excellent alternative.

I very highly recommend front AND rear facing cameras.

Mine has already come in quite useful. It captured this carwash mishap.

I have not been in any actual accidents yet, but the sheer amount of stupidity on the roads is staggering.

I noticed some have advised replacing the DISH splitters with regular splitters. That may or may not be necessary; if it's an older dish system the splitters it used may be perfectly capable of splitting the signal from your antenna. On the other hand, if the dish had multiple LNB's on it then you probably will need to remove and replace all the Dish Network splitters. If you can post a good, clear picture of the splitter(s) we can probably tell you if they will need to be replaced.

However if you are in an area where all your received signals are a bit on the weak side then you may instead want to replace any splitters with an amplified splitter such as one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001PI09SE?keywords=channel%20master%20splitter&qid=1449601660&ref_=sr_1_1&sr=8-1

Note they come in 2, 4, and 8 port models so you can match the number of outputs to the number of TV's you are feeding. The idea is to eliminate the loss normally associated with splitting the signal. On the other hand, if all the signals you want to receive are very strong, then adding one of these would be overkill and you can just get by with a passive splitter. If you post a link to your TVFool report we can give you better advice on this.

There is a way to do it, yes, but it will be a bit more complicated than your description. I had a similar situation in my house when I cut the cord. I put the antenna in the attic with a distribution amplifier similar to this. The in-wall coax is definitely ok to use with either antenna or cable service.

One output of the amplifier was connected to a TV in a room immediately below. The other output went to the original cable which dropped through the walls to the basement where the original cable signal had come in. Another distribution amplifier there distributed the signal to four other rooms with TV jacks. (Note that the line from the antenna became the input signal to the basement amplifier; it was originally connected to one of the outputs.)

If your signals are strong and/or you don't need to split the signal at the antenna, you may not need the first distribution amplifier at the antenna.

This works well for all the TVs, getting about 35 channels. We are about 20 miles from most of the TV transmitters.

Hope this helps!

Probably possible. Not sure if it would be worth it. A dash cam with motion detection and an additional battery might be enough to ease you worries. I had one installed and it makes me feel a little better.

These were taken from https://www.reddit.com/r/Dashcam/

Best cam recommendations

Best value:

• A119 v3 ($110-120 USD)
  
• B1W ($47-55 USD)
  
• Street Guardian SGGCX2 (Includes memory card and CPL filter) ($160-290 USD)
  
  Best value Dual cams:
  
  
• A129 ($150-170 USD)
  
• A129 Pro Duo 4K ($250 USD)
  
• Thinkware FA200 2CH WiFi ($170-180 USD)
  
  Budget dash cams:
  
  
• Yi Dash cam ($50 USD)
  
• Rexing V1 ($100 USD) - Lipo battery
  
• Anker Roav S1 ($90 USD)
  
• Anker ROAV C1 ($73 USD)
  
• AUKEY ($70 USD)
  
• YI Nightscape Dash Cam ($65 USD)
  
  Budget Dual Cams:
  
  
• Rexing V1P Pro Dual ($200 USD)
  
• Aukey DR02D ($130 USD)
  
• Mini 0906 ($120 USD)
  
  Dual Cams:
  
  
• BlackSys CH-300 2CH ($290 USD)
  
• Street Guardian SG9663DCPRO ($260-360 USD)
  
• BlackVue DR900S 2CH (4K) ($430-591 USD)
  
• Thinkware Q800PRO 2K QHD ($380-490 USD)

I have the 4100NEX too. Love it.

I went with an Alpine PDX-V9 for the amplifier:

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-PDX-V9-5-Channel-Extreme-Amplifier/dp/B007VSXGOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493233218&sr=1-1&keywords=pdx-v9

Polk DB6501 crossovers for the speakers:

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ

My sub is the slimline JL 10tw3-d4:

https://www.amazon.com/Jl-Audio-10tw3-d4-Shallow-mount-10/dp/B00EJWSLBU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493233136&sr=1-1&keywords=JL+TW3

The box requirements are tiny for the sub, and the bass is amazing! The amp is really small but powerful.

Sound quality is awesome with the top on or off. I got the bass adjustment knob for the amp to help with this.

For high quality sound on a budget I'd do things a bit differently. Get a good set of component speakers (like these) for the front doors and get a 2 channel amp to power them. Drop the 6x9s you won't need them in the coupe.

A head unit doesn't have a very good amp and the sound quality won't be very good, even at low volumes. Two speakers running off an amp will sound better (and louder) than 4 off a head unit.

A sub will need an amp. A good sub with a good amp will be a great addition and will improve sound quality but you'll need to spend an extra $250+ for everything (Sub, Enclosure, Amp, Wiring, installation) for something that's decent quality. I'd leave this for now as it doesn't fit into your budget.

I have pioneer head unit, Polk MM651s and a Rockford 2 channel amp, the sound quality is great. I plan to add a sub in the future and replace my speakers with components.

Based on your post, I was wondering if you even needed a head unit. If you need is AUX input, I wonder i there are amps with AUX input or if you can wire an iPod/Music Player directly to an amp without the HU. HU's really don't do much these days, I like my Head Unit it has all sorts f features but really 90% of what I use it for is to play audio over Bluetooth off my phone. Hopefully someone with more knowledge can answer this for us.

This won't help you in your current situation but I highly suggest that EVERYONE get a dashcam for their vehicle... specifically this one. It's $60 and is designed for high temperature environments. I made a post just like yours back in May and someone suggested I get a dashcam... so I did. Luckily I haven't had any incidents since then but the peace of mind is well worth the $$$. Good luck getting this sorted out!

this is the dash cam I purchased for myself. It does not have a battery, so it only works when it is plugged in. I live in a place with really hot summers so this is the best choice for me. If you live in a place with moderate temperatures, grab the battery version!

The video quality is honestly better than what I paid for, although I did have to replace the charger after about 6 months I would recommend it to anyone, and even buy it again. All in all, it is a great investment that fortunately has only needed to give me peace of mind so far.

OP, my assumption is that you are looking for a very long cable in order to hardwire the camera? If that's the case you are probably wanting something like this: Spytec hardware kit

The kit is very long, definitely long enough to make it from a fuse box to anywhere in the front of your car. I recently wired two of those into my car, one for my rear cam as well, and I did have to splice in about 6' of wire to make it long enough. It was super easy to do though.

An easy way to attach it to your fuse box it with these: add a fuse 5 pack they plug into a existing fuse hole, and you put the fuse into the tap. It gives you the red wire feed you need for the hardware kit. The black wire for the kit goes to ground (and has a metal semicircle for bolting to an existing frame bolt, not pictured in the Amazon picture)

As far as memory car durability, try to get a MLC type memory made for dashcams (stay away from SanDisk Ultra). Here is a good article about it

[Formatted Example Response Post]

Component | Recommendation | Price
---|---|----
Frame | ZMR250 | $38.00
Motors | SunnySky 2204 2300kv | $84.00
ESC's | MRM 12A Simonk | $46.00
Flight Controller | Naze32 | $22.00
Transmitter (TX) | Turnigy 9X | $60.00
Receiver (RX) | Turnigy 9X8C-V2 | Included with TX
Battery | 3S 1300mAh 30C | $11.00
Battery Lead | 16AWG Wire and XT60 | $2.00
Propellers | HQProp 6030 | $3.00
FPV Camera | Sony Boardcam | $26.00
Recording Camera | N/A | N/A
Gimbal | N/A | N/A
Servos | N/A | N/A
vTX/RX | Boscam 200mW 5.8GHz | $40.00
Screen | 7" LCD | $28.00
Total | With FPV | $360.00
Total | Without FPV | $266.00

Notes:

• You can get a much better radio. I recommend just adding to your budget. It's worth while. Search /r/multicopter for reasons why it's better! And the total only comes up to about $430.00 if you can wait for FPV.
  
  
• If you want to add FPV eventually, you need to have an amateur radio license (technician level at least) to operate legally.
  
  
• There are always additional little costs such as heat shrink, battery straps, etc.
  
  
• Try to supply all my parts from the US. Mainly for shipping speed reasons! ;) The parts on this list that aren't from the US are the Radio TX and the Camera. The Taranis radio can be bought in the US, and the boardcam probably can too for a bit of a premium.

I'm a personal fan of the Vico-Marcus 3, but I've heard good things about the A119, and the G1W (or the G1WC)

Get something in your price range, and make sure it has the features you want. Do you want GPS? Ultra-high-res/FPS? Amazing night-time sensors? Automatic crash detection with saving?

Take a look at https://dashcamtalk.com/ for more info about pretty much any dashcam you want.

7506 @ $70 is a wonderful price. I say keep them and enjoy them until they're noticeably getting older. If you're new to headphones you will not be disappointed.

I will suggest investing in a udac to improve the sound quality from your computer. These honestly do make a huge difference. I've heard good things about the nuforce udac2.

Component | Recommendation | Price
---|---|----
Frame | ZMR250 | $38.00
Motors | SunnySky 2204 2300kv | $84.00
ESC's | MRM 12A Simonk | $46.00
Flight Controller | Naze32 | $22.00
Transmitter (TX) | Turnigy 9X | $60.00
Receiver (RX) | Turnigy 9X8C-V2 | Included with TX
Battery | 3S 1300mAh 30C | $11.00
Battery Lead | 16AWG Wire and XT60 | $2.00
Propellers | HQProp 6030 | $3.00
FPV Camera | Sony Boardcam | $26.00
vTX/RX | Boscam 200mW 5.8GHz | $40.00
Screen | 7" LCD | $28.00
Total | | $453.00 CAD

Notes:

• Many of these parts go in and out of stock from domestic vendors. It is recommended that you shop around and find the best option for you.
  
  
• This build comes out below your budget by quite a bit. While you will have to pay for shipping and such, I would advise that you put some of those extra funds toward more props and batteries... you're going to need them.
  
  
• This kit will require some soldering. You can pick up a fairly cheap iron and some solder/flux (I recommend .03-.05) off amazon or from your local hardware store. I would advise practicing for a bit on some old electronics. Thrift stores are a great place to pick up an old motherboard if you don't have any laying around. Soldering is not very difficult and I was able to solder all my pins and other components after just an hour or so of practice!
  
  

The blackvue is popular and sounds nice, but I didn't feel the need for the wifi or cloud features. So I went with a pair of Rexing V1 cameras, front and rear. For power I made a y-cable and attached it to the extra 12V connector in the headliner compartment. Then I ran power cables through the headliner. The front cable is pretty much out of view. The cable for the rear camera runs exposed for several inches from the rear pillar to the back window — not ideal, but it doesn't bother me.

A year later, I'm happy with the Rexing. Video quality seems fine. I haven't had to use it for anything serious yet, but it helped me identify an object that whacked into me on the freeway.

Here are some of the parts I used. If you do your own installation, pick up some micro2 fuses. It's easy to blow one while working on the power supply. You'll also need a multimeter so you can identify the correct wires for 12V power.

https://www.amazon.com/V1-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MH4ZVHO

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058DN7B8

Highly recommend this one. I use it in my pickup and the suction cup one in my truck. Both are great but this one makes me very happy. Speed. Gps. 1080p at 60fps. It even has pitch and yaw. Very good. And sound is great. Though i turn off sound in truck because if im listening to a podcast a lawyer will say i was distracted when the drunk ran a red light and hit my trailer. It can also take a 128gb sd card so you can get almost 3 days with 720p at 30 fps. Roav DashCam S1, by Anker, Dash Cam, Dashboard Camera, Full HD 1080p Resolution @60 fps, Nighthawk Vision, Sony Starvis Sensor, Built-in GPS, Wi-Fi, Wide-Angle Lens, 2-Port Charger, 32GB microSD Card https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DF8MQX1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ISsUCb4GMYH7W

I bought the Black Box G1W-C dash cam, and put this MicroSD card into it. If you don't live in a climate where it ever gets very hot (like Southern California, where I live), you can get the regular G1W version, which is cheaper since it uses a battery rather than a capacitor (capacitors are more heat-resistant). Both versions need to stay plugged in to your lighter socket at all times, though, since even the battery version only lasts 5-10 minutes without external power.

It's too large to fit behind the rear view mirror on my Prius C, so I put it in the upper-right corner of my windshield, and aim is slightly to the left so it catches my entire front view. The suction cup that attaches it to the glass is very sturdy.

I've been pretty happy with the overall recording quality (license plates are clearly legible in the day, though you need to be pretty close at night), and it acts as a MicroSD card reader when you plug it into the USB on your computer, so I didn't need to buy a reader to be able to export the videos. And you can directly play back the videos on the device itself.

/r/Dashcam

Best cam recommendations

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Cheapest: G1W-C(B) ($56 USD)

Best value: Xiaomi Yi Dashcam ($70 USD)

Discreet: A119 ($90 USD)

Versatile: Mobius ($75 USD)

Budget Dual Cam: BlackSys CF-100 ($95 USD)

Discrete Dual Cam: Blackvue DR650GW-2CH ($355 USD)

Night vision: Street Guardian SG9665GC ($209.95 USD)

Taxi/Uber Cam: Transcend DP520 ($195 USD)

Rules

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Reddit members who are also Retailers are NOT Allowed to Post links to their site / eBay listings / Amazon listings / Aliexpress listings /etc. This is a common sense and anti-SPAM rule, but it was asked to be spelled out.

Also please do not post Dailymotion.com and Liveleak.com links, only Youtube, and the content posted must not come from any "compilation" channels (ones dedicated to uploading stolen content with no permission from the owners of the content), please post the original link, not a reupload, unless the original is not available.

See Also:

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www.dashcamtalk.com

www.dashcamtalk.com/forum

/r/Roadcam

/r/carcrash

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