(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best coaxial car speakers

Ah, the sound system. I can help you there!

For your door speakers, these are great money. They will really outperform your factory speakers. Rockford is a tried and true name, you can't go wrong.

If you want another subwoofer, which for most people isn't necessary but if you want a really rounded full range sound it is, you can go with something low power and relatively cheap like this. Again, Rockford is tried and true high quality stuff. Of course, you'll need a dedicated amp for the sub if you go that route.

This one is pretty good. I have one that is a similar model at home. Alpine is a good brand. It is a 2 channel amp, so you will want to bridge the two channels into one. The instructions should tell you how to do that.

And, a box is required for a subwoofer. You can build your own if you like, or you can simply buy one. For a single 10" sub you want a box that is approximately 0.5 cubic feet on the inside. This one is 0.6, which is plenty close enough. This box is sealed, so you will get cleaner sharper lows. You can also go ported if you want louder lows.

And, for a sub and amp, you will also need a dedicated wiring kit. Boom, this one will be perfectly fine for what you're using it for. The power will have to be run through the firewall directly from the battery. The ground will connect to any bare metal inside the truck. I suspect you will need to cut a piece out of the carpet under a seat and use a self drilling screw to connect it. You will also have to run a remote wire from your head unit to tell the amp when to turn on. It should be a solid blue wire, but check your specific head unit to make sure.

If the D1's are like the D2's, your amp should fit nicely under your passengers seat.

Also, it's not necessary, But I recommend going through the trouble of replacing the factory speaker wire. As old as it is it is probably corroded and is also pretty small. [This] is the stuff I use, it works. That's all there really is to say.

As for your factory tweeters in the windshield pillars (did the D1's have those?), they may still work fine. If they don't just pick up a set of these. It's typically best to match your mid range speakers with a matching set of tweeters. It's best to place tweeters in the pillars. Just hook them into the same line with the front speakers.

This will give you a pretty good setup. Exponentially better than stock for sure. Best of luck!

Alright, hear me out. The Soundblaster Vanguard K08 is my favorite keyboard.

The #1 feature I love about it: the keys are low profile. What does that mean? It means the distance the key travels after pressing it to activate it's function is small. It might not sound "cool", but my OH MY word. The difference between my office keyboard and my gaming keyboard is like night and day. You will never want to go back to the standard profile keyboard. The keyboard just feels so much more responsive. I'm sure there's other keyboards out there that are also low profile, but this keyboard was so good I didn't even think twice if anything else could be better out there.

Its heavy, solid, and honestly at $90, I think its a good deal. Super sturdy, and it's got dedicated Macro keys to program however you want.

It's got great reviews to boot nearly everywhere.

Check it out:

https://www.amazon.com/Sound-BlasterX-Vanguard-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B01N40OYKX/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmrnull_1?keywords=sound+blasterx+k08&qid=1557936691&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull

I had about that budget to build the system in my 75 Lincoln. Here’s links to what I went with other than the sub which is an older Sony 10” in a box I bought used. I run the 4s and 6x9s off deck power and use a cheap amp for the sub. A better amp would be better of course but for my budget I like how this sounds. The kicker speakers have been great for the $$$ although the 4”/6x9 combo is a little high sounding because my car is so long. Your tracker shouldn’t be as bad given it’s not 19.6 feel long like my Lincoln. Haha. If you can fit bigger speakers up front I’d suggest doing so to pull some more mids out. This setup was around $400 and sounds pretty decent considering the price. The speakers aren’t on prime for they price so a little more $ would get them faster. Also don’t forget to budget in wiring as a kit and decent RCAs will raise the cost. Also, check local garage sale sites like on Facebook. People are often offloading stereo stuff when they need money. Just beware of stolen items :(
Best of luck! Hope it all works out!

Pioneer deck $99.99:

Pioneer DEH-X6900BT Vehicle CD Digital Music Player Receivers, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KKHSYGE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LVU2BbJ84810C

Kicker 6x9s $61.80 and 4” $34.99:
Kicker 41DSC44 4" 2-Way Speaker Pair https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I4D2YBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TXU2Bb9XQ4N0Z

Kicker DS693 6"x9" 3-Way Speakers (Pair) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004K5AZAQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LYU2BbZ3T21ZA

Planet audio amp $59.99:

Planet Audio AC1000.2 Anarchy 1000 Watt, 2 Channel, 2/4 Ohm Stable Class A/B, Full Range, Bridgeable, MOSFET Car Amplifier with Remote Subwoofer Control https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003GSLE4E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_v0U2Bb3PFV49C

Hmm, I saw some stuff saying the LX may come with 6x9 if you opted for a certain audio package...

Anyway, if thats the case I would recommend strongly a Kenwood Excelon head unit. Probably the X895 but nothing less than the X695 (that's the lowest model with BlueTooth). For speakers, I would highly recommend Infinity Kappa 63.9i speakers. They're supremely beautiful. You can pair them later, if you wish, with a Kappa or Perfect 10 sub for a stellar system. If that's too much you can also check out Parts-Express as they have some of the best deals on speakers around.

You're asking this question in a Car A/V enthusiast sub. So keep in mind, like all enthusiast or hobby subs, there is going to be a certain amount of snobbery and brand favoritism. Budget-friendly definitions will also vary, as Car A/V enthusiasts will prioritize Car A/V.
I'll try give you my thoughts, as I am inferring from your post that we have similar definitions of budget-friendly.

First, you'll get a lot of mixed comments on Cerwin-Vega - typically from people that don't have them or have never had them. Naturally, people will recommend brands that they've had good luck with. I have 4 Cerwin Vega HED series 6x9s in my car running off stock-deck power, I can't upgrade my head unit without some serious modifications, and likely will never upgrade it.

I knew I would be running my upgraded speakers on deck power and visited many local shops and listened to quite a few brands - on deck power the Cerwin Vega 6x9s sounded really good. They were a huge upgrade to stock speakers, and were budget friendly. If you get the ones you have listed though you'd want to amplify them. The HED series from Cerwin Vega run pretty well off of stock deck power though and have a really nice sensitivity level. Here's the 6x8s Also Hertz brand, I liked them as well.

Even if you spent $100-150 on a budget-friendly deck you'll get enough power to push the HED Cerwin Vegas much better than a stock year 2000 deck. Not to mention you'll be able to shape the sound much better, it will play much nicer with the subs you plan on adding later, and a thumb drive will hold much more than 6 CDs worth of music. This is what I would do in your place.

Now there are a lot of differing opinions, and you'll encounter the group that will tell you to get really nice components and amp them up front, disconnect the rear speakers, and save up for your next step, and that is an awesome way to go - but it didn't match up to what my budget and priorities lined up with.

As someone who spent an inordinate amount of time completely gutting his 9-3 Aero's sound system, I'm more than happy to offer a handful of tips for this. I dug about forever trying to find walk-throughs and info, but I'll be damned if that wasn't a tedious process. Also, if you need any further help, feel free to PM me, I'm a wealth of knowledge on this, sadly.

Anyhow, a couple of things:

• Firstly, and surprisingly, I found that after removing and replacing all of the factory speakers in the car, the pair that by leagues made the most significant impact on the overall sound were the 3.5" component speakers in the dash. The stock units offered laughable bass response and sounded tinny as hell, they always bugged me the greatest. Take those suckers out (only 2 screws per each, aligned to where they're fairly easy to remove), use a flat-headed screw driver to pop the tweeters out, and drop in these suckers. Yes, they are coaxial (i.e., no separate tweeters), but don't bother with an additional pair of tweeters, these Infinity's are far better than any equivalent setup, least of which the stock setup.
  
  
• Next, the door speakers. These proved to be the most time-consuming, not least of which the way they are mounted. Once you have the door cards out (great guide here), you'll find the speakers mounted on the door card itself, as opposed to being set into the door frame. Now, whatever speakers you go for (definitely choose coaxial in this case, a component setup in the doors is a complete nightmare), keep in mind you only have 2 1/2" depth to set the speakers, so be careful when choosing your kit. I went with these guys from Boston Acoustics. Now, while they're no longer selling this model, just go for their new-model 6.5" coaxial, or the similar offering by Infinity Kappa. In my experience, Boston Acoustics and Infinity Kappa (owned by Harman/Kardon, no less) offer the best experience in after-market car audio, touting (in my opinion) the best and brightest midrange and high, with tight, accurate bass. Anyhow, unless you're planning to amp the setup, this is all you really have to do. However, if you are planning to add an aftermarket amp, tackling this is a whole new animal. You're looking at pulling the factory amp out from under the seat and bypassing it, something I can walk you through should you need to.
  
  
• Lastly, the rear deck. You have slots for the 6x9's for the Arc and Aero and slots for 4" speakers for the Linear and Vector models. I only replaced the 6x9's, and used a pair of Rockford Fosgate Component speakers, which I somewhat regret. The best option for these speakers (again, in my opinion) are Inifinity Kappa's 693.9i 6x9 coaxials, the bass response is unprecedented (deep, full, and crisp), and the highs are brilliant. These are by far and away the trickiest to mount, caused me quite a bit of frustration and still do. Each 6x9 is set by 4 screws at each corner, but each speaker is pushed so close its respective rear pillar that two of the screws are almost wholly inaccessible. Either find yourself a trick screwdriver that can be used in extremely tight places, or do what I did and simply use a set of pliers to remove the two hidden screws from the bottom of the rear deck.
  
  This all aside, you may want to consider some sound deadening, particularly in the rear deck, especially if you plan on amping the setup. People say go with dynamat, but shit's expensive, and better alternatives are out there. Personally, I took the decidedly ghetto route, and cut out a foam mattress pad to size and set it in the deck. Also, you'll want to kill the rattling coming from the third brake light over the rear seats, you'd be astonished at how much cabin noise that crappy plastic cover is responsible for. Use weatherstripping to cover that damned thing on the inside, and just place it back, problems solved. Anyhow, thanks for making me feel useful today, have upvotes!

Those are both great receivers at the consumer level but audiophile grade stuff is a different section of the market. One of Pioneer's SQ decks is right here and it's not cheap and doesn't have any "pretty" features. All the tech is focused on making it sound better not look better or have extra features like CarPlay and all this. On the bright side you wouldn't need an additional DSP with a deck like that. Here's a set of SQ speakers just for the front of the car. If you decide you want to go the audiophile car audio SQ route you're looking at big money that's the problem here. If you're willing to reduce your expectations money wise you're going to have to seriously reduce your expectations sound wise too. If you want to go cheap with no subwoofers completely ignore the rear speakers in the car, find a nice used 2 channel amp from JL Audio or Rockford Fosgate or another well known company, and find yourself a nice 2 piece component kit with a separate woofer and tweeter for the front of the car.

So, I have the 2019, but these speakers are compatible with anything that supports a 3.5" speaker on the dashboard.

---

That said, the stock tweeters are shite. I got a pair of JBL CLUB 3020 to fill in some of the missing mid-high. It's like a night and day difference.

The stock speakers accepts a proprietary audio plug that's a white box with 4 cables going back into the dash. The new JBLs are just bare connectors because they are universal. I didn't want to cut the wires, so I found an adapter here.

It was very easy to install:

• Pop off the speaker grill with a credit card.
  
• Unscrew the stock speaker
  
• Unplug the stock speaker
  
• Plug the adapter into the wires coming from the car
  
• Plug the wires from the adapter into the new speakers
  
• Screw in the new speakers
  
• Replace the speaker grill
  
  Took about 10 minutes each speaker.
  
  ---
  
  I intend to rip off the doors are replace those 6.5" speakers with 4 JBL CLUB 6520 speakers.
  
  Even without an amp the better quality speaker makes a world of difference.
  
  I will probably add an amp and a sub at some point, but that's down the road. I'll post again when I replace the door speakers and I'd be happy to assist if you are doing the same with a 2019.

(((post is also for Zack V, who is building a system right now in his truck)))

​

I want to focus mainly on the upper front speakers, let's say you've got 3.5's up in the dash.

But first lets get a recommendation out of the way for the 6x9's: Run them on an amp.

On the amp for the 6x9's, likely wire 4-channel amp mounted somewhere under the glovebox where it won't get kicked by someone's feet.

Then a set of speaker wires from the dash head unit and back up to the head unit to splice into the wiring harness adapter that was purchased for the head unit, this will feed the speakers their power instead of the head units own speaker output without having to run any new wiring to each speaker, which should be just fine if you are not going over 300 watts peak (or over 50 watts RMS per channel, 200 watts RMS total, or 450 watts max, peak is usually 50% over RMS, MAX is usually 200% to 250% over RMS).   So you can safely go up to a 450-watt amp easily as long as you're not running it at max full volume 100% all the time, which you won't because you'll go deaf in no time. Most newer vehicles stock wiring (although thinner) is of high enough quality to handle this with no problems (50-Watts RMS).

The amp will have to have a "high-level input" for this to work (just don't use the RCA connectors for this task unless the stock radio has the low output option for them, which isn't likely). You will likely only find the less expensive amplifiers with this option, as most setups replace the head unit first (aftermarket head units provide the low level RCA outputs designed for use with amplifiers).

As for the 3 1/2 speakers in the dash, this is going to be the hardest thing to understand but they are actually full range and set the "sound stage" for the vocal part of the music.  Putting in tweeters only (without full or mid-range) will kill your sound stage entirely and make your vocals sound very flat, especially if your 6x9's are lower in the doors by the feet.

Most importantly is to match them to the head unit, meaning you want to get the highest clean volume with the minimum wattage, for example: (and I just researched this) the best pair on the market without an amp will be something like the Infinity Reference 3022cfx 3.5" and here's why:  you get 91db of "pure, clean sound" (due to low end Bass Blocker built in so you don't blow out such a small speaker) but all that sound comes from only 25-watts of power!  (Can handle up to 75 peak if the head unit puts that much out or you want to add a second 2-channel amp) but that combined with a very high signal to noise ratio will give plenty of volume without needing an amp, and this is one of the only component speakers of this size that comes in a 3-ohm configuration which will give it some added oomf due to higher power draw at lower volumes (meant to compensate for the other speakers running on an amp). If you check out all the other offerings on the market, you'll see a lower sensitivity, higher RMS power requirement, narrower frequency range, much higher price, and in some cases ALL of these factors at once!

Others like the JL Audio C2-350x, JBL GTO329, and Rockford Fosgate Punch P132 all have very limiting factors such as high power requirements, needing a second 2-channel amp, or low signal to noise ratio, needing a second amp, or specifically the JL's may sound flat due to a limited higher frequency range (like tweeters only),  the JBL's will be drowned out by the sheer volume of the 6x9's with the 3.5" JBL's having such a high RMS power requirement they will literally sound "quiet" compared to the 6x9's without their own amp, and the Rockford Fosgate 3.5's have both a lower sensitivity and flatter frequency response. I know it's only a few hertz (85 to 120) but that to me makes all the difference on the vocal sound stage when there's a low male voice singing such as Eddie Vedder, Johnny Cash, Jim Morrison, etc... (at least to me I hear a difference, it could be psychological but that's a whole other category of postings).

Keep in mind you can spend OVER $1000 (without buying an amp) on 3 & 1/2 inch speakers & Signal Processor & Shipping chasing top quality, but this isn't the goal here today, for right now you want your price range of the whole speaker system around $500.

Of course if you're only streaming Pandora or Spotify don't bother for highest quality as the high ranges all get garbled to audio compression so there's no point, just go with whatever cheapest speakers won't give distortion at moderately high volumes.

Don't forget the wiring adapters! This was my favorite part for not having to cut the factory speaker connectors and they're usually under $3 each Example: Speaker Harness for $5.62 / pair.

I hope this helps you make a decision. Personally I like the vocals in music the most so I may sound a little passionate on the topic of setting the sound stage.

just found all the same stuff on amazon for $100 cheaper, so the total is around $630 including all the wiring kits and stuff. should I get nicer speakers? If I do get nicer speakers should I go for the Infinity Reference 8602cfx, the Rockford Fosgate Punch P1683 or the Alpine Sps-517's? or is there something better? Looks like the Alpines would give me the most RMS wattage for that Amp at 75w each. What do you think?!

Hey Sevnfold,

So the Kicker upgrade are two sets of these (known as 77Kick10):
https://www.amazon.com/Jeep-Wrangler-Kicker-Speaker-Upgrade/dp/B0091EPN94/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486479358&sr=8-1&keywords=kicker+upgrade+jeep

And two of sets of these (77kick25ab):
https://www.amazon.com/Dodge-Kicker-Speaker-Upgrade-77KICK25AB/dp/B008I2UYPI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486479517&sr=8-1&keywords=77kick25

The hardest part are the two front speakers under the dash.

I used this video from youtube to help me figure it out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IQt_gmPIl-w

The other 6 speakers are pretty much plug and play and shouldn't take longer than an hour or so to get them done.

I used polyfill to give it nice deep bass tone in all the spots.

The amp was:
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-KTP-445U-4-channel-Power-Amplifier/dp/B003VVYL46

I didn't want to install that myself so paid a place to do it. Took them about 3 hours to get it done.

I didn't want to get anything that didn't look stock so this is why I went this way. Let me know if you have anymore questions.

This is the aftermarket pocket you'd have Best Buy install either underneath your new radio or above it (entirely dependent on preference). Best Buy installers will reuse your current brackets to join the two pieces together.

Depending on trim, Celicas came with the base 4-speaker system (2 speakers in the front doors; 2 in the rears), 6-speaker system (4 in the front doors - 2 on the bottom and 2 tweeters next to the side view mirrors; 2 in the rears), or the "premium" 8-speaker system (3 in the front doors - 2 on the bottom ("woofers"), 2 in the middle, and 2 tweeters next to the side view mirrors; 2 in the rear (mine). The "premium" set has a separate amplifier (sometimes under the seat, sometimes behind the driver side kick panel). The stock radio sends doesn't do any signal processing but sends the audio signal directly to the amplifier where it sends extra juice. If you have the ST trim, you most likely don't have the amplifier under the seat so can just plug the Pioneer wiring harness directly into the car's wiring harness.

If you're replacing the head unit, you may as well put in new speakers as well. The old ones are probably disintegrated / crackling. I bought 2 sets (4 total speakers) of these to replace the 4 in my car (the 2 on the lower door and the 2 in the rears). For the fronts, if you go with the 6.5, you might need an adapter. I used these. You might also need a wiring harness for the speakers if you don't want to disassemble the OEM ones (easy to do, but some people just don't want to do it).

i used this amp: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010FAQQNY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and the cheapest pair of 4" car speakers that amazon had:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000230LBI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

generic one-way speakers would have also been fine for these classic games, but i actually couldn't even find them as cheap as this pair. this is way overkill compared to the audio setups that were in these classic games, and i was actually impressed with the quality of the sound from the amp in general

i didn't bother making the volume external, i just open the back of the cabinet to adjust if needed

speaker adapter rings $12 pair x2

speaker wiring adapters pair $6 x2

radio harness with amp bypass $35

JBL P660c 6.5" component set for font doors $130

rockford punch coaxial for rear fill $60

knu konceptz 4awg amp kit $35
usually i wouldn't recommend copper clad aluminum but in your case it'll be fine

dash kit $40

sony headunit $110
several options for this, but this is a decent unit.

precision power sub amp $110

soundqubed hds210 10" sub dual 4ohm $105

belva .77cuft sealed 10" prefab enclosure $37

I am over budget here, but this was quick and dirty. there are a couple areas to save money. biggest being buying a sub and amp use on craigslist. if that is possible and gets you under budget, id recommend just about everything else as is.

Would any speaker work as long as it's a 6x9? Like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00O53ACRE/ref=pd_aw_vtph_107_lp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ECDTEBXVDNS6NEMKZCTM#nav-search-keywords

Also, online forums mention an optional front speaker that's a 4x10, would it be easy to install? I really want more of a surround sound instead of just rear audio

add these in the back, Use my polks up front. Then power with this or a different 100w RMS amp. Does that sound like a good plan?

I really like the Chomecast Audios
I use them with these amps
and these speakers 1 2
All work really well together

Also, understand that decibels are a log scale.

So if your 0.2W speaker outputs 70dB and you want to get to 100dB, that's a 30dB shift, or about 1000 times as much power, suggesting you need a 200W speaker-amplifier system to achieve your goals.

So that's something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Hi-Fi-Amplifier-Booster-Stereo-Motorcycle/dp/B00M0XSJX0 plus something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-F1634R-200W-2-Way-Speakers/dp/B0081SRIFS/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1464617489&sr=1-1&keywords=200W+speaker

For cheap and sounds better than stock, my go to is usually Kickers like these

Not to be a Pioneer fanboy, but they have a pair of 250W speakers that are pretty inexpensive

I have these and I've been happy with them.

The thing that sticks up in the center (Tweeter?) does touch the grill, but I haven't noticed a difference in sound because of it.

You will also need THIS adapter. BUT the tabs on the speakers will be too big for the connectors. Just trim down the tabs on the speakers a little bit (It's soft metal, I just used dikes to clip them.) and they'll slide in just fine.

I'd replace the Head Unit and speakers. Even a $69 Pioneer should rock some Decent low watt speakers. what Body style? You probally have 6.5'" in front doors and 5 1/4" in rear deck but may be 6.5" all way around...........some models had rear 6x9s

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-S3166BT-Digital-Receiver-Speaker/dp/B07MRFVKKD

BUt you may wanna check speakers 1st and maybe try New speakers on that Head unit............

this One? https://www.crutchfield.com/S-mOsu9Wbf5y2/p_020VZ409/Clarion-VZ409.html ?

https://www.amazon.com/JVC-CS-DR620-Factory-Upgrade-Speakers/dp/B01BTSYE1C

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-F1634R-200W-2-Way-Speakers/dp/B0081SRIFS

https://www.amazon.com/JVC-CS-J6930-3-Way-Coaxial-Speakers/dp/B00O53ACRE

https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-G6930F-3-Way-Coaxial-Speaker/dp/B07594MRH2

when time comes for sub and amp I'd just Buy New Cheap stuff on Amazon. Right Box and Cheap subs can Hit Decent. I've Been out of Car Audio for a while - had a Budget Car Audio Shop for 3 years 2000-2003 and Installed Many a Pyramid/Legacy/Lanzar amp. Bought a Used Silverado 2 years ago and decided I wanted a lil something in it and installed a single $22 10" Sound Storm sub and $45 Pyramid amp. Surprises the Chit out of People when I tell them I got a $22 sub and then they Hear It.......

https://www.amazon.com/Sound-Storm-SS10-Single-Subwoofer/dp/B0002VM8QG

you should be able to Find multiple youtube videos on civic speaker replacement..........

Yes:
First swap your speakers out with something like these:
Kicker 77KICK10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SUO5QS

• get 2 sets (front and back)
  Also swap the little speakers in the dash and rollbar with 77KICK25
  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008I2UYPI
  
• again get 2 sets.
  
  Then get you a decent amp. I prefer DD Audio D4.90 amp but any quality 4-channel amp at 75w per channel is fine. The D4.90 can take line-level inputs from your 130 head unit.

I replaced only the front and rear speakers last year, kept the stock radio as I only listen to mp3's via my phone. What I didn't know was the factory speakers were 20W each (blech) and that soldering would be involved. Done and happy.

Pioneer TS-A

Kicker CS

But if you can swing a few extra bucks, I'd REALLY recommend these Pioneer TS-D speakers. Those are highly underrated in this industry. They don't get the credit I think they deserve.

have recommendations? I was thinking of just using ceiling speakers. All the walls and ceilings are open right now. I know nothing about audio setups - and probably could not tell the difference in quality between a good set and a cheap set.

The house is open concept with the TV visible in the kitchen - with an elevated tray ceiling in the living room similar to this.

I am open to ideas. But the plan was to just wire in some ceiling pocket speakers. like this.

The idea was this:

• we need a server closet (running close to 30 Ethernet ports in the house) that includes a patch panel, switch, etc.
  
  
• Go ahead and add the AV components in that same closet, with the front sticking through the other side to the living room.
  
  
• Have a single HDMI run from a AVR to the TV in the front of the living room.
  
  here is a quick layout of the house.

Can't go wrong with JBL GTOs: https://www.amazon.com/JBL-GTO629-Premium-6-5-Inch-Co-Axial/dp/B00ANIECRQ

If it's more than you want to spend, you can go for the CLUB line: https://www.amazon.com/JBL-CLUB6520-2-Way-Coaxial-Speaker/dp/B01KW1F6ZA
Solid construction either way.

with an adapter yes. Here is the right size for ya without having to buy an adapter.

> Infinity Reference series speakers

like these?
http://www.amazon.com/Infinity-Reference-8602cfx-two-way-speakers/dp/B007SNN0T0

Hi guys, thanks for your time.

2001 Focus Wagon. All stock currently. Want to replace all 4 speakers and put in a Single DIN with Bluetooth Audio. I've got no clue what I'm looking at. Mostly white boy bumpin rap music if that matters. So far I was looking at 4 of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001P88U12

and this head unit

https://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PLR27MPBU-Bluetooth-Receiver-Playback/dp/B00BIF0XTE/

using eta prime's hdmi control board link for amazon this is the pair of speakers that comes up as the one most customers bought when buying the other parts of the cabinet mods.

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https://www.amazon.com/Car-Sound-Speaker-Pair-Non-fatiguing/dp/B000230LBI/ref=pd_sim_147_19?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000230LBI&pd_rd_r=59691b64-e78f-11e8-bed5-7dcfcd74da26&pd_rd_w=wyMJb&pd_rd_wg=l6VZa&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=18bb0b78-4200-49b9-ac91-f141d61a1780&pf_rd_r=11TNJW85CAVHX1WF1TBW&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=11TNJW85CAVHX1WF1TBW

Damn I need to get new rear speakers then. I was thinking of this pair for my 1998 Chevy Tracker, I listen to rap/bass heavy songs a lot

(New speaker) Pioneer TSA1676R 6-1/2" 3-Way Car Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014Z7ILY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Qi9dBbCN1FTHC

Do you think this is a good quality set of speakers? For reference, here are the rear speakers I have now, will the new ones at least be better?

Pioneer TS-G1645R 250W 6.5" 2-Way G-Series Coaxial Car Speakers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NF5EQK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nl9dBbR3YM2SH

or these
https://www.amazon.com/Kicker-41DSC44-2-Way-Speaker-Pair/dp/B00I4D2YBI/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500052255&sr=1-6&keywords=car+speakers

Would you happen to know if these are quality speakers as well? I've been researching some more ever since I got home and haven't seen any negatives about them.

I only replaced the dash speakers and it cost $60

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-P132-Punch-Speaker/dp/B001P86SP2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=fosgate+3.5&qid=1571157338&sprefix=fosgate+3.&sr=8-1

Do you know How do the Bose speakers compare to this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000230LBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_hd90BbKTE7CAD