Reddit mentions: The best coin & button cell batteries

Well, I spent an hour typing this up before I accidentally hit refresh and deleted it all, so let's try this again.

Let me begin by saying that the T2E581, Weekender and camo NATO are all in good condition, they just don't get the wrist time that they deserve and that is why I am offering the lot up for trade. Ideally I would like to trade the whole lot for one watch although I'll consider offers for just one of my watches or pairings of one of my watches with the camo NATO.

First watch I'll describe is the Timex T2E581. It is a lovely watch that I very recently acquired in a trade, it just isn't my style and it hasn't (and likely wouldn't if I kept it) gotten the wrist time that it deserves. It is in good condition, although it does has a scratch that is barely noticeable around the twelve o'clock position. The watch's dial itself is a cream color with roman numerals (note the watchmaker's four (IIII) instead of IV) and a day and date window in the three o'clock position. The watch features the iconic indiglo feature, which is great at night, whether your out in the middle of no where or laying in bed and don't want to be blinded by the light of your phone.

Case Diameter: 40mm

Lug Width: 20mm

Water Resistance: 50m

Amazon lists this watch for just over $50. Link to Amazon page


Next is the Timex Weekender. I got this watch sometime in August and have only worn it a handful of times. The watch is in great condition and has no damage that I can see. The dial of this watch is an off-white color and the case is a silver color. The watch also features indiglo, just push the crown in and the dial will glow. The Weekender makes for a great beater and is great for camping, hiking, and whatever other outdoor activity your into. Included is the box, stand thing, and papers that it came with.

Case Diameter: 38mm

Lug Width: 20mm

Water Resistance: 30m

Along with the Weekender is the original blue with grey stripe NATO that it came with and a white with blue stripe Weekender NATO that I picked up at a flea market. Full disclosure: the white and blue strap appears a little worn and the white appears kinda discolored, although I did try to clean it. The blue and grey strap on the other hand is the strap that the Weekender came with and is in great condition. Both are comfortable and are 20mm wide, matching the lug width of the Weekender. Note that both of these straps are Weekender NATOs, meaning that they are one piece and slip through. Not sure if I described that well enough, but you can see what I'm talking about in the pictures if you compare them with the camo NATO.

Amazon lists the Weekender for just over $30. Link to Amazon page Note that I'm pretty sure the watch I linked is the white version and the one I am offering is off-white.


Last part of the lot is a high quality 20mm camo NATO strap. The strap is in excellent condition, it's actually never been worn. Like I said above, it's a great NATO, it's just not getting the wrist time it deserves so I figured I'd include it in this lot and see it go to a good home.

If I missed any details or if you have any questions, feel free to leave a comment or send a pm.

Happy Holidays!

This thing is awesome. It's like a Chinese-assembled Japanese quartz Paul Newman dial IWC Portuguese. It may just be broken but I'd definitely throw a new battery in there to see if it comes alive, especially because -- like the best watches -- you'll have a cool story to tell whenever someone asks about it.

You'll probably need a case opener to do it yourself but you can find repair kits online for $6-$7 that have these.

To Answer your original question:

The Pokemon Go Plus uses passive Bluetooth, so turning off your phones Bluetooth won't help it to save battery life.

It truly does depend on how active you are. When I'm up at the park it's constantly buzzing and lighting up with Pokemon and Pokestops. While I'm at work it goes off only every once in a while.

The other thing I've noticed is that the battery going into it also makes a difference. I bought a 3 pack of batteries from the Dollar store and they all died pretty quickly in comparison to the original battery the Plus came with. I bought a duracell a while ago and it's still going strong.

I'm planning on buying this: https://www.amazon.ca/CR2032-Battery-Lithium-Batteries-Expire/dp/B011XPFMEO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484317607&sr=8-1&keywords=2032+battery+50pk and splitting it with a friend who also has one. That way we never have to worry and it brings down the cost per battery significantly.

Okay, so this isn't a pair of panties, but it is a wireless remote control vibrator that you can use out in public. click me!

I bought it for my partner to use on me. It runs out of battery juice within 1-2 hours, which kinda sucks, but they're small batteries so it makes sense. That, and it's a powerful vibrator.

The vibrator itself uses three of these batteries (these are the ones that die within 1-2 hours), and the remote uses one of these, which should last you all night. They're super cheap so it's not really a problem to switch them out as needed.

It can get kind of loud so you probably shouldn't use it in a quiet, fancy restaurant or something, but if you go to a bar on the weekend, that should be loud enough to muffle the sound.

Depending on your anatomy, the pad of the insertable part might be able to hit your clit. It doesn't hit mine, but that's because my clit is a bit further away from my vagina than a lot of women. The insertable part feels super nice when vibrating, though. It drives me crazy. ;)

(P.S. I got it when it was 50% off. Adam & Eve does sales a lot so it shouldn't be long before they do another one like that, so you can get it for cheap!)

ya dude no problem. inovas are kinda the standard for glovers. i have some solid colors, but i also have ones that change colors when they move. the best one i have is orange when its stationary, but when it moves its red yellow and green. some lights like that would make your mask super sweet. also go on amazon and buy batteries. they are wicked cheap

http://www.amazon.com/CR2016-Lithium-Button-button-Batteries/dp/B00AHRQL4K/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1368730672&sr=8-15&keywords=2016+Lithium+batteries

Here are some random thoughts I had. I attended my first burn this past summer, and I flew there from Alabama.

1. Those rental bike places sell out really fast. If you plan on renting one, you should start making phone calls six or seven weeks ahead of the burn. Personally, I wanted to actually prepare my bike for the burn, so I bought a cheap used one in Alabama, and shipped it to my friends who drove the RV from the west coast. This was actually cheaper than flying with a bike as checked luggage, which has tripled in price in the past ten years. I say, support your local bike co-op, and you will also get to lubricate your chain, and triple check all the parts etc. At the end of the burn, there are literally dozens of places to donate your bike so you don't have to travel back with it.
   
   
2. Building your costume is a year long hobby. You can't start too early. Visit thrift stores and peruse the internet and setup your outfit early. Fill up your Camelback, and gather all your essentials, then try riding your bike around. You want to find any weaknesses before you leave civilization.
   
   
3. You can't have too many bike lights. Do not buy expensive commuter lights. A forward facing headlight is good, but the nicer ones will just blind other bikers. They are designed for cars to see you. There is enough ambient light generally to see ahead of you, so you should focus your efforts on cool led blinkers. Last summer, I brought a pack of 25 batteries for these lights : http://www.amazon.com/CR2016-Lithium-Button-Cell-Batteries/dp/B002BZOMYM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1383073869&sr=8-4&keywords=cr2016. Basically every LED blinker uses this kind of battery, and if you buy them from a Walgreens, they cost like 5$ each. You can buy 25 from Amazon for 7$ with that link. Even if your blinker uses the larger cr2032, you can stack 2 of the 2016s and it works. You can also trade fresh batteries for stuff you need.
   
   Those are just my random thoughts.

That's an Exell S23PX battery in your K3u - you can get a new one for [$7.95 with free shipping] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEG9EZC//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20) if you're willing to wait a few weeks or [$9.95 if you want it now] (https://www.amazon.com/Exell-S23PX-Silver-Battery-Single/dp/B005MD4TYS//ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=battleforthew-20).

Hope this is helpful and good luck with your "new" mic!

I also have a brief question about this light. I have been looking for extra batteries online and found the ones that came with the light here, but I was wondering if these batteries would also work. They look to be higher capacity, with the same voltage and form factor. My main concern is not with whether the light will accept them, but rather if the charger will charge them properly. If any of you have any experience with these things, I'd love to hear back before I go ahead and buy 4 of the things.

It’s very easy. All you need is a soldering iron, some solder, and some replacement batteries with the posts on them. Here’s the link for a set of the special gamebit screwdrivers and several batteries. If that is too expensive, there might be cheaper ones out there, but that is what you’re looking for when searching on amazon, cheers!

https://www.amazon.com/Triwing-Screwdriver-Batteries-Bundled-Security/dp/B07BKQJSDQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=video+game+replacement+batteries&qid=1558664866&s=gateway&sr=8-4

You just need to replace the clock battery. It's a cr2032 watch battery with tabs, much like the ones used in old Pokémon games.

It isn't a very hard fix, but does take a bit of time. Here is a guide that shows how to replace it. I recommend reading it to make sure you understand the process before you begin, and that you have the required tools.

The battery is easy to find online, here is a quick amazon link I found as an example of what you're looking for.

Edit: by the way, if you don't feel like it, you really don't need to fix it. It's just annoying to boot to this message everytime. Most games won't be affected by this (animal crossing being an obvious exception).

I have been changing the batteries out in our G5 transmitters using Renata Watch Battery 389 and battery life has been 6-8 weeks before dying what battery do you recommend ?

Also when I have changed the batteries in the transmitter for a 2nd time I can't get it to connect again, have you managed to change the batteries more than once and have it successfully connect to the app ?

Thanks

For PC ownership of any sort, I'd highly recommend purchasing one of these for situations like this, it plugs in above the front panel header. That being said, have you tried testing or replacing the CMOS battery yet? You can use a multimeter with DC voltage settings (also nice thing to have around for diagnosing) and see if the battery is below 2.9V after pulling it from the board. It's a pretty inexpensive item to have handy since they have a decent shelf life. Heat can degrade the battery rapidly and there's plenty of heat sources in a PC.

"Why didn't they tell us Obamacare didn't work for cars?!"

As for me, can you please get me some LR44 Batteries for my upcoming battery powered Godzilla lol, thanks :D

Hillflower on Amazon is pretty dang reliable. Batteries last the same as Emazing's.

I have been buying in bulk from that store for almost two years now. It used to be on Ebay but is on Amazon now. I def recommend checking out the Amazon store.

Only downside was that since they've switched to Amazon, shipping took about 3-4 weeks.

http://www.amazon.com/Lithium-Compatible-BR1620-1W-CR1620-1W-Hillflower/dp/B00HQ6HJCI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427642245&sr=8-1&keywords=1620+battery+bulk

It takes CR2032 batteries if I'm correct but check on the battery itself first to make sure. As to where to buy them, amazon or ebay, just make sure the battery has the metal tabs to solder them on the board.

Canada : https://www.amazon.ca/Battery-CR2032-Board-Electronic-Scale/dp/B07NSX2D2Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=cr2032+battery+with+tabs&qid=1563318908&s=gateway&sr=8-6

USA :
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-CR2032-Board-Electronic-Scale/dp/B07NSX2D2Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=cr+2032+vattery+with+tabs&qid=1563318961&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spell

Assuming we're talking about a Spotmatic II, you can use an Energizer 387S or equivalent.

If you order from Amazon, order from Amazon direct and not a third-party seller or you're liable to receive 20-year-old batteries (speaking from experience).

(The Spotmatics were designed to take a 1.35V Mercury cell that's banned because environment, but the cameras have voltage regulation circuitry so they can take any battery in the 1.35-1.55V range that'll physically fit without altering the performance of the lightmeter. Fancy zinc air batteries (Wein cells) exist that provide the originally expected 1.35V and are marketed very well but don't waste your money. They don't last very long and they're not necessary for this camera.

Had to replace the wife's battery in her fit meter so I ordered these from Amazon, super cheap and they've been trucking on. Our Walmart down the street didn't have any.

looking for something like this? they sell these things at radio shack for pretty cheap. You can also get just the jacks and use any compatible battery!

I just did this yesterday with a SNES game (Super Mario World - my all-time favorite). You absolutely should NOT just pry the battery out, you run a really really high risk of breaking those fragile pieces. Soldering it is much safer and effective and actually takes way less time. Solder the two points on the pack of the board and the entire battery will slide off. You can either solder a new battery with tabs already attached or you can solder a battery holder for easier repair in the future, although these fixes will last 10-20 years. I got the battery holder and battery for less than $8 at Radio Shack.

It's weird how Logitech decided to deal with the inevitable degradation of the battery after a while. They were no help at all. But the batteries are easy to order from ebay or amazon. It's wicked difficult to wedge the old battery out of its slot, but a couple of months ago I replaced the battery in mine after several years of almost continuous use and it works fine again. The batteries are cheap. $5 or less. I bought two batteries so I have a backup.

I'll take replacement after a few years for $5 over constant recharging or regular battery replacement for a wireless keyboard. I'll also take a wired keyboard over a wireless one for gaming, but if it's a work keyboard, this thing is great. If only Logitech weren't so unhelpful with battery replacement.

I posted this before, handy at night if doing time lapse, astro etc, frees up both hands! And it's very bright, throw in some extra batteries because cheap.

In order not to draw current when not in use you'd have to install a stereo jack in the guitar like a guitar with EMGs. It won't draw current when the cable is unplugged.

You just replace the DC in jack with a battery clip to power a micro pedal with a battery or buy something like this.

Sounds like your CMOS got cleared, and possibly the battery is too drained (low voltage). The battery is a CR2032, they're pretty inexpensive usually. You can find them at most stores i.e. Walmart, Target, etc.


What motherboard and graphics card do you have btw?

Check your CMOS battery and replace it if you think this is the appropriate fix.

https://www.lifewire.com/what-is-cmos-2625826

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-CR2032-Lithium-Coin-Cell/dp/B0787K2XWZ

Ultimately, the real "fix" is to allow yourself extra time in the morning and to leave early, this way you have time in case anything happens. It's also possible that your school doesn't have perfectly synchronized time (I once worked somewhere that set the time 4 minutes ahead, which was conveniently the length of the grace period HR allowed before you got extra points added to your record on top of the point for tardiness).

You can find replacement batteries for cartridge based games on amazon for like $2 This is what your looking for I had to replace a battery for a LOZ A link to the past.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004CXNY3G/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i02?ie=UTF8&redirect=true

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CJXB5E/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TJ45L6/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i01

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BZOMYM/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KBEH1W/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00

ride safe

So one last question - sorry! The refurbished mobo I bought will not come with a CMOS battery. Are these ones from Amazon fine to use with it?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0042A9UXC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A19DY5EK03NION&psc=1

Yes, ocarina of time is one of the 11 nintendo 64 games that use a battery for saves, you can buy batteries with the solder tabs and just desolder the old one and solder in the new one.

http://www.amazon.com/Super-Nintendo-Genesis-Master-System-Advance/dp/B00ES28AT4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1409841554&sr=8-2&keywords=N64+battery

Depends on whether or not you want continued warranty and your level of technical expertise, heres an example of a newer cpu battery and here's an example of an older one.

You should contact your motherboard's support before trying any of this, they might just send you a battery for free/cheap.

Amazon or a local battery store. Here's an example. The battery in your motherboard should show the name of your specific battery etched onto the top, otherwise I'd check the manual of your mobo

>My Garmin HRM-Tri informed me today that the battery on it is low so I’ve begun weighing my options of what to replace it with.

I guess you mean you're thinking it's a good time to upgrade? Because, pardon me if you already know this, but you can just replace the battery with a CR2032 with these instructions.

Or use amazon.

cr2032 battery

Small screwdriver


You can probably find a better/cheaper screwdriver at a hardware store though.

So could you provide a link where you bought it?
Found it on Amazon.



Now another question: Doesn't it bother the GO Plus with the +0,6V extra Voltage?

The CR2032 battery cost $3 and will solve your issue. 5 pack

Changing the battery is easy
I had to do it in my keyfob, as my dashboard was telling me it was low and I didn't want to wait

Here is a link to the battery I bought
It is a 3V CR2032 Battery
http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0042A9UXC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
(This is a link to the Canadian Amazon)

Any store that sells watch batteries I would imagine. CR2032 is the type you need.

Amazon has some too

http://www.amazon.com/Energizer-2032-Battery-CR2032-Lithium/dp/B0042A9UXC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418769548&sr=8-1&keywords=CR2032&pebp=1418769489161

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0042A9UXC/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_iECVtb1776S0KC6Z

2032's are actually seven cents cheaper.

You should consider getting one of these. http://www.amazon.com/2-1x5-5mm-Power-Battery-Button-Connector/dp/B005D65LEG

I drilled a small hole in my Wah body and ran the cable through it so the battery was never an issue.

https://www.amazon.com/Exell-MRB400-Battery-Z400PX-EPX400/dp/B005AWSJLK/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=px400&qid=1574360368&sr=8-4

Has anybody tried getting rechargeable 2032 batteries? They have them on Amazon with the charging station.

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-2032-Battery-CR2032-Lithium/dp/B0042A9UXC

Rats.

I do also have this watch if that tickles your fancy. Just put a new battery in it and a new strap on it. http://www.amazon.com/Timex-T2E581-Cream-Brown-Dress/dp/B000N6497Q

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-2032-Battery-CR2032-Lithium/dp/B0042A9UXC you can buy one from here

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-CR2032-Lithium-Coin-Cell/dp/B0787K2XWZ/

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-2032-Battery-CR2032-Lithium/dp/B0042A9UXC?th=1

I'm looking at these http://www.amazon.com/1200mAh-Demonfire-Rechargeable-Battery-Button/dp/B00JXVKW6Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1416955671&sr=8-4&keywords=18350&pebp=1416955744702 , and the amps only go up to 8.4. Seems feasible to me

It's the battery in your fob.

https://www.amazon.com/Energizer-2032-Battery-CR2032-Lithium/dp/B0042A9UXC/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1542405558&sr=8-4&keywords=CR2032

Easy as hell to replace, takes about 15 seconds.