Reddit mentions: The best component car speakers

> You recommended more of a price range, but that eliminates a lot fewer then doing that combined with ruling out some brands. Either way, I'm still left with tons of choices & not any closer to picking something that might work well.

I gotcha - I try to avoid just whoring my favorite brands because among "better" products the differences become far more subjective. They all work well, but each of us will find certain characteristics to appreciate about individual products.

So to get a bit more specific; your Element has factory ~5.5" speakers in the front and rear doors, and might have tweeters in the A-pillars (if you have the factory 7 speaker system). The holes for the tweeters should be there in the A-pillars even if you have the 4-speaker system. Good news for you, because that means you can easily install component speakers in front. You can install 5.25" speakers in all four locations, or 6.5" speakers with minor adjustments (you have to drill 4 new mounting holes outboard from the factory ones) - it still all fits behind the factory grilles and doesn't otherwise affect the car in any way.

6.5" speakers will provide significantly more capability to play bass, which means you can keep more of the midbass/bass duties up front - reducing your subwoofer requirements and improving the detail you hear up front.

Component speakers come with a (left and right) woofer, crossover and tweeter. The woofer mounts in your door, down where there's room for it and the tweeter mounts up in the A-pillar where there's clear line-of-sight so that your legs, your passenger's legs, etc don't block the sound - higher frequencies are more susceptible to line-of-sight interference than lower frequencies.

The crossover is a passive device that installs in the wires between the amplifier and woofer/tweeter, and tells the low and high frequencies which way to go. It's a time filter, changes in polarity that take too long to occur, don't manage to pass to the tweeter very well and changes in polarity that happen too quickly won't manage to pass to the woofer. This is important to the tweeter because low frequencies will damage it, but it's also important to sound clarity because every speaker has its own unique voice characteristics and if the woofer is allowed to try playing the same high frequencies as the tweeter, you will hear the differences in character as noise. Intelligibility and detail gets lost and while it's not a HUGE big deal by itself - it adds up and it's avoidable. This is why I recommend a quality set of components up front thankfully just about any brand's components in the >$100 is going to be pretty excellent. To get you started, I have these in the front of my vehicle, they're fantastic but also discontinued and were a bit pricey. I have installed these more modestly priced, and currently available MTX components in friends' cars and love them - they have a quality feel out of the box and they sound excellent, precise and balanced with no appreciable shortcomings. Stick with something in that price/quality class and you'll be happy.

In the back, inexpensive coaxials are fine - because you'll be wanting to keep them much quieter than the front speakers to preserve clarity and intelligibility, their grade becomes less important because their already minor inconsistencies will be utterly eclipsed by the clear tones coming out of the front speakers.

For achieving your bass needs, are you planning to build/have-built your own enclosure or would you like a ready-made solution? If you can do a little woodworking, tuning a simple vented enclosure is not dreadfully difficult. here is a quick example comparing amplitude response between an ideal sealed enclosure and a carefully tuned, vented enclosure on an inexpensive $30 8" woofer and a very good $162 10" woofer - I say carefully tuned because there's more to it than just a flat response in the frequency domain; keeping the phase transition in a good place in the frequency domain minimizes its blurring effect on the time domain and keeps clarity and intelligibility very high. The difference in average SPL is accounted-for in differences of power handling, the larger woofer in that graph is seeing 300 watts, the 8" woofer is seeing 120. You'll also observe the differences in physical room they'll take up - the angry little 8" woofer does admirably well in less than half a cubic foot, easily covering open "E" at about full amplitude and at proper phase - then of course it runs out of poop... the high-end 10" driver calls for 2.5 cubic feet to do its best, but it covers everything and well. To my knowledge, there is nothing off the shelf I've ever seen tuned that way. (Obcon's freak enclosures might accomplish that type of tuning with exactly the right driver)

Alright here we go:

1. DSP's: I've only had experence with a rockford 3sixty.2, but even with that i say that processed audio is exponentially better. That being said, here is what i've gathered are the best DSP's from r/carav. The jbl ms8 which is discontinued but you can find good deals on ebay. The Rockford 3sixty.3 which i personally recommend; and finally the miniDSP with everything added in. You will definitely need some tutorials on EQ'ng and RTA software if you plan on installing these yourself.
   
   
2. Regarding components, you have to go to a audio shop to really get a feel for what you like. Are you fine with mid level components or the audiophile grade? for great mid level i recommend Hertz DSK. For audiophile grade i would go for Morel Tempo's. the coaxials in the rear doors are less important. You can go for some cheaper pioneers which will do the job and still sound good, or find some matching coaxials to your components if you wish.
   
   
3. Go for a 4 channel + a monoblock. I would choose this Cadence D100.4 and a Zapco 1000W rms monoblock. I hope your electrical is decent. If you wish to spend a little extra you can look into a HO alternator or possibly just a bigger audio battery such as XSpower, Kinetik, or Shuriken.
   
   
4. Two tens would be good, but a single twelve would take up less space and not require as much power which is always good. I would get a single Fi SSD which is great for either sealed or ported enclosures. If you want tight bass get a sealed enclosure, if you want to bump hard get a ported box built to specs. Either way, don't buy a prefab, get it custom made.
   
   
5. SOUND DAMPEN EVERYTHING. Dynamat is great and i use it, but many r/carav enthusiasts go for Noico which is also butyl rubber dampener which is much more cost effective. Do your doors, rear deck, and trunk.
   
   overall it should be: $1,880 with everything added in, the most expensive component set, and wire harness. You could spend the extra little bit on a replacement starter battery geared towards audio (the brands i recommended). You will need to double check, but from what i found your alternator outputs 130A, and it should be able to handle up to 1200W comfortably. Set your gains accordingly with a multimeter.
   
   
   Regarding the install, you can do it yourself but it will take much longer than you think it will. With determination and plenty of video tutorials or outside help you can finish it very well. If taking off your cars panels, electrical work, and woodwork/drilling sound daunting, get a professional to install. It can be anywhere from $400-1000 extra depending on what you have them do (component install, DSP programming, sound deadending, amp wiring and install). You can get discounts on labor if you buy stuff from them, so again, please do listen to setups from your local audio shops.

I recently did the upgrade myself on with 2014 Sonata GLS without nav. parts used:

• Kenwood DMX905S
  
• Scosche HY1625b dash kit
  
• iDatalink Maestro RR
  
• Factory replacement harness for Maestro RR
  
• Crimp cap Nylon connector
  
  the install was sort of straight forward. connecting the wires from replacement T harness to the Kenwood main cable may seem intimidating, but if you follow the diagram supplied by iDatalink, it will not be difficult. Maestro RR unit is very convenient and it lets me assign a single tap and hold (two functions) for each of the steering wheel buttons. one my biggest worry about losing the factory backup camera and its dynamic parking guideline when the car is in reverse. I am happy to report, the factory backup camera works, and the dynamic parking guide line shows up just fine when I am reversing the car with the Kenwood. removing the factory dash panel was not hard if you use the panel tools. the Scosche is of high quality and matches the factory dash overall, but some of the fitment was not correct. when swapping out the parts from the factory panel to Scosche panel, don't put on those green clips just yet. because for me it took a while to find a good fitment between the head unit and the panel, so I had to take off the panel, change the depth or angle of the head unit, and put the panel back on to see if the fit is good. once you are happy with the fitment, put on those green clips on the panel, and set the panel into the dash for good. I set up the microphone at the base of the steering wheel and the GPS antenna on the right side at the edge of the windshield. I channeled the dual USB cable between the two panels near the factory power, USB and audio inputs.
  
  I'm very impressed with the Kenwood unit. I have upgraded it to the latest firmware. then connected my phone (Galaxy S8) with the USB cable and started android auto. next time, I started my car, android auto started right away wirelessly. the screen is low res, but it is not noticeable for me. the sound quality is the biggest strength. the sound is very rich and clear. I have already swapped all four door speakers with Rockford speakers , and the two dash speaker with these. they are not a good fit at the factory slot, I have used bass blocker with the dash speaker. I have also added a Pioneer powered subwoofer in the trunk. using this wire kit.
  
  pic

I personally like the SPR-60C set from Alpine, about $150 and I think the Pioneer digital amp line is an outstanding value. The GM-D1004 looks like a great match with power to spare for only $100 street. It's twice as powerful as the Alpine power pack for the same money or less.

http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPR-60C-Audio-Component-System/dp/B004VBIEZW
http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-GMD1004-45X4-Compact-Class/dp/B00O8B7BXQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1417587005&sr=1-2&keywords=gm-d1004#productDetails

I use a similar setup, with my amp being pretty much the same except older and without the slick form factor. Feeding 200W RMS into each side gives me the ability to extract all the speakers are capable of delivering, which is sufficient for even top down at highway speeds and a reasonable amount of bass for the speaker size without a sub. The extra power gives you options. You can get pretty bassy if you're not cranking it, or you can get pretty loud with less bass. You're not lacking on the power to do so, only the physical limitations of the speaker. You will not be disappointed for $250 combined!

First of all, door speakers are not made for bass at all and that's probably why they are all blown.... The front speakers are 6.5 and the rear deck is 6x9. The headunit will power 4 speakers, so two front and two rear. The way the headunit does that is it has a internal amplifier. So for a substage you will need a external amp (depending on subwoofer). The RCAs on the back of the headunit go to the sub amp for signal. So for speakers, you said you have a tweeter mount in the front, so you will want a component set of speakers. Which means the mid driver and tweeter are separate as compared to something like a coaxial speaker. [Here] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ) is a nice of 6.5 component speakers. They are entry level but one of the best entry level. And for the back we will keep it Polk DB for all around the same sound, so [these.] (http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB691-9-Inch-Speakers/dp/B000P0R6KW) So with this setup you will have good clear sound in the front, and good sound in the back and should sound all the same, expect the front will sound better sense component speakers also have a separate crossover which filters frequencies so your speakers will play the correct Hz. Now about the substage we need some questions answered first. SPL (loudness), SQ (sound quality), or SQL (a mix)? Type of music you listen to? Willing to build a box? How much of the trunk space do you want to keep? Most, some, or "anything for bass bro" style which is none.

Sundown lowered the price on their SD65CS components to $189 until they sell out. These are an amazing set for that price and would match up well to.your amp.

They will sound good on your head unit but really will open up with an amp.

If you want a 5 channel amp, components and sub around your budget, I put this together.

Pioneer GM-D9705 Class-D 5-Channel Amplifier with Wired Bass Boost Remote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N8KKR6X/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_X9CvDbCAAS3TV


SD-6.5 CS - Sundown Audio 6.5" 60W RMS Component Speakers System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016XF03BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_M.CvDb5C3C8SV

Skar Audio Single 10" 1200W Loaded SDR Series Vented Subwoofer Enclosure | SDR-1X10D2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07S8CPB53/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ibDvDb2T169MK


With that said, the P300-12 is a nice, cheap all in one unit that will save you space and time. Mine is in an SUV and sounds good. It doesn't get too deep, I think its range is like 40-120Hz, but it sounds good

> The Polk components are quality but really need the additional wattage of an amplifier to sound their best

I hear this a lot and the more I learn about audio components, the less sense this makes. Any type of speaker is going to sound 'better' with an external amp in the right circumstances. IE, powering them beyond what your head unit's amp is capable of.

But, component speakers aren't some kind of mystical audio unicorn. They're essentially the same thing as a coaxial speaker (separate drivers to reproduced limited bands of audio). The difference between a coaxial and a set of components is A) a better crossover, B) a larger tweeter, and C) separate components so that the tweeter can be placed for better sound imaging. These features aren't anything to scoff at, but they don't require an amp to function.

OP shouldn't shy away from getting a component set because they won't have an amp. Especially with the Polk db6501 available for less than $130. Those speakers will still sound good running off of the head unit's amp. Particularly if he doesn't have second front channel speakers installed in the dash/A pillar/sail panel/upper door already.

This post isn't meant to attack you personally, just questioning the conventional wisdom that component speakers 'really need an amp to sound their best'.

Normally you spend money on the front speakers and even go without rear 6x9's
That being said you can also save a few bucks on a 2 channel amp to run the just front speakers.

Shoving a pair of 6x9's in the rear dash when you have a 15 inch subwoofer in the trunk can sometimes be counter productive when you can leave the 6x9 rear speaker holes empty to allow the bass to more easily make it inside the cabin of the car.

Considering I have a round about estimate of your budget this is what I would do:

Sub amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_48?ie=UTF8&qid=1468928854&sr=8-48&keywords=3+channel+amplifier

Subwoofer:
https://www.amazon.com/E-12-V-3-D2-Sundown-Subwoofer/dp/B01CZ4M9RA/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929161&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=sundown+e12+d2

Subwoofer box:
https://www.amazon.com/Atrend-12LSV-12-Inch-Subwoofer-Enclosure/dp/B0013MWT12/ref=sr_1_10?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1468929607&sr=1-10&keywords=12+inch+subwoofer+box

Front speaker amp:
https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R150X2-2-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HY84/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929435&sr=8-3&keywords=2+channel+amplifier

Front speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB651-Certified-Speakers/dp/B000P0PF9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

or if you can spring for a few more bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929479&sr=8-2&keywords=polk+audio+6.5

You will still need an amplifier wiring kit:
https://www.amazon.com/Lightning-Rockford-Fosgate-Amplifier-Installation/dp/B00PB4BEE6/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1468929693&sr=8-12&keywords=amplifier+kit

Why do I recommend this setup?
For the money you are spending and the music you are listening to this will be the best value.

The 15 inch kicker subwoofer you picked is ok but the 12 inch Sundown subwoofer will play lower and hit harder in the proper box. Ive installed both of these subs in the past and the 12 inch Sundown is a phenomenal sub and the Kicker is no comparison.

Subwoofer box:
The subwoofer box you picked out isn't really that expensive when talking about the cost of a quality built sub box. However, the box you picked out is a small sealed enclosure. This will limit the really low frequencies your subwoofer could produce if in a larger box. A lot of the time it is better to opt for a smaller size sub in a larger ported enclosure for producing low frequencies such as rap and dubstep than a larger sub in a small sealed enclosure.

Amplifier:
You picked out two different amplifiers. The sub amp I recommended has a higher rms output rating and better quality components. The amp for the full range speakers has the same better specs. You also picked out a 4 channel amp which is a waste of money when you can get more out of a 2 channel amp. 2 channel amps can still power 4 speakers if wired properly. Although, I would suggest forgetting about upgrading rear 6x9's and upgrade the front stage.

Front speakers:
The front speakers I recommended are some of the best sounding speakers I have installed at their price point. The front speakers are the most important more over the rear speakers because that is where you are setting. I recommended the 6.5 because I believe those are the requirements for your car. If not then opt for the 5.25 of the same line

Note: I am a professional installer with 22 years of experience and have installed more systems than most people ever get to hear in a lifetime.

I would consider installing the equipment yourself. it will save you some money and it is not all that hard to do. That would free up money to get better equipment. As mentioned above 6.5" would be a better option. i would also only do the front speakers. keep the rear stock speakers as fill. Most all of your sound should be coming from the front to maintain good staging and imaging.

Also consider most aftermarket speakers are designed around the fact that they will be amplified (look at power rating). So sound will greatly improve with an amplifier. So i would consider buying a small amplifier for the front speakers as well.

I suggest you listen to the speakers before you buy as sets sound vastly different depending on material used to make them. some are more laid back others are more harsh sounding. If you are stuck on infiniti then i would consider the Kappa series. they are a bit more pricey but sound much better.

This is a nice set for the price:

https://www.amazon.com/Image-Dynamics-ID65CS-Component-Speakers/dp/B01I0QI0RU/ref=sr_1_4?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1478183682&sr=1-4&keywords=Image+dynamics

http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-speakers/c-10-compon-speakers/c-40-65/p-11153-rip-165s-auditor-65-60w-rms-2-way-component-speaker-system.html

small amp:

http://www.woofersetc.com/c-3-amplifiers/c-28-two-channel/zapco-st-2b-2-channel-full-range-class-a-b-amplifier.html

install kit ( OFC is best but on a small amp and budget set up this would be okay)
https://www.amazon.com/KnuKonceptz-Complete-Amplifier-Installation-Wiring/dp/B017HNIJBY/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478184243&sr=1-1&keywords=amp+install+kit&refinements=p_89%3AKnuKonceptz

dash kit and radio harness:

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120955812/Metra-95-5812-Dash-Kit.html?tp=3121

http://www.crutchfield.com/p_120705520/Metra-70-5520-Receiver-Wiring-Harness.html?tp=2977

Total around $519 and an afternoon to install.

Ok here's what I've got so far.

• Speakers
  
  Kicker 6x8 2 way CDN$110 decent.
  
  Infinity Kappa componet set CDN$299 Probably the best sounding.
  
  Infinity 6x8 2 way CDN$248.90(2 pair) Great price, decent set of speakers.
  
  Rockford Fosgate6x8 2 way CDN$156 Don't know much about these guys, but they look pretty promising.
  
  
• Amps
  
  Rockford CDN$240.99
  
  Pioneer CDN$248 CEA06
  
  MTX $237 CEA06 I'd get this one, highest RMS, and CEA 2006 compliand, and a little cheaper. Would go great with those RF speakers, or the Infinity Kappa components.
  
  
  Dude, prices in Canada suck, move to the US order your stuff, move back, save money. :p

I have the 4100NEX too. Love it.
I went with an Alpine PDX-V9 for the amplifier:
https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-PDX-V9-5-Channel-Extreme-Amplifier/dp/B007VSXGOQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493233218&sr=1-1&keywords=pdx-v9
Polk DB6501 crossovers for the speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ
My sub is the slimline JL 10tw3-d4:
https://www.amazon.com/Jl-Audio-10tw3-d4-Shallow-mount-10/dp/B00EJWSLBU/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1493233136&sr=1-1&keywords=JL+TW3
The box requirements are tiny for the sub, and the bass is amazing! The amp is really small but powerful.
Sound quality is awesome with the top on or off. I got the bass adjustment knob for the amp to help with this.

For high quality sound on a budget I'd do things a bit differently. Get a good set of component speakers (like these) for the front doors and get a 2 channel amp to power them. Drop the 6x9s you won't need them in the coupe.

A head unit doesn't have a very good amp and the sound quality won't be very good, even at low volumes. Two speakers running off an amp will sound better (and louder) than 4 off a head unit.

A sub will need an amp. A good sub with a good amp will be a great addition and will improve sound quality but you'll need to spend an extra $250+ for everything (Sub, Enclosure, Amp, Wiring, installation) for something that's decent quality. I'd leave this for now as it doesn't fit into your budget.

I have pioneer head unit, Polk MM651s and a Rockford 2 channel amp, the sound quality is great. I plan to add a sub in the future and replace my speakers with components.

Based on your post, I was wondering if you even needed a head unit. If you need is AUX input, I wonder i there are amps with AUX input or if you can wire an iPod/Music Player directly to an amp without the HU. HU's really don't do much these days, I like my Head Unit it has all sorts f features but really 90% of what I use it for is to play audio over Bluetooth off my phone. Hopefully someone with more knowledge can answer this for us.

I cannot tell you 100% if they're the best for the price, but I can tell you that I really liked the sound of them when I owned them. Keep in mind that part of having a good sounding speaker is having them properly installed. I put some cheap sound deadening mat inside doors (home depot stuff) in the doors along with MDF ring bases and was really satisfied with their capabilities. Here you can see the reviews on amazon. I recommend going through the questions people have had on these speakers.

Check the /r/CarAV side bar for the approved gear link for more suggestions. These are on sale and are definitely a step up from the Fosgate

https://www.amazon.com/Hertz-DSK-165-3-Component-DSK165-3/dp/B008B5JPTS

The Hertz HSK line is even better but the ones I linked look like they're on sale at Amazon.

Even better: https://www.amazon.com/CL-61-Audio-Component-Speakers-System/dp/B00FX9SO74

Or these babies, if properly tuned will blow those Fosgates completely out of the water.

https://www.amazon.com/DLS-RM6-2-Reference-Component-Speaker/dp/B00G4L6V0W

Don't forget to look at Morel. They are pretty much the gold standard of speakers

https://www.amazon.com/Tempo-Morel-6-5-Component-System/dp/B003F2U79O

Ridiculously overpriced but thats just my opinion. I had alpine type r components in front, two way in rears a 12in sub and alpine 5 channel amp for about $600 cheaper. Sure the sub is nice since its out of the way but you can purchase that separately if you want it. The amp was the most expensive piece it was like $400-500. You're better off buying a 4 channel amp and getting aftermarket speakers.

Here are the specs on the type r components:

110 Watts RMS
330 Watts Peak

The speakers alone will trash that system.

componenets $150

2 way $100

pdx-f4 $305

or

pdx-v9 $430

then pick a sub and it'll still be a better deal than the oem system.

The speakers on the door are a 1 inch tweeter and about 2.5 inch midrange then the 5 1/4 inch by your feet. Not all one inch tweeters will fit but these fit with little modification. Also check out Bavarian Sound Works even if you're not looking to buy from them to check what sizes they use. I plan on using the speakers I linked below with help from the other link. Good Luck on your first car.
http://www.dvatp.com/bmw/hk_speaker_upgrade/
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB5251-5-25-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0PFA0

$300 for 4 speakers? Thats a pretty good budget.

I would personally buy these 6.5's and these 6x9's. Now, i have the first set of speakers i linked, and so do a lot of the people on this subreddit. They are pretty nice sounding speakers, and will get as loud as you need. I linked those 6x9's because they are the same model as the first, just different size.


Also, i saved you $50, that you should spend on deadening.

You'd get better sound quality putting a 2 way component set up front and leaving your rears stock. This is what I'd go with on your budget.

Headunit $230

Sub $60

Box $45

4 channel amp $135

Front components $120

Total is $590, so a little over your $600 budget after wiring and adapters. If you run this you would power your front components using the first 2 channels of the amp, and you'd power the sub by bridging channels 3 and 4. You'd keep your rears stock and fade your sound all the way to the front for the best sound quality. This would be a pretty nice budget sound quality system.

For the fronts you would just have to buy 6x8 to 6.5 adapters for your vehicle and mount the tweeters somewhere, usually either your doors or a-pillars.

Hey what up tec__ I went in and got my first quote but I think the owner was trying to take me for a ride, http://www.amazon.com/ESK-165-5-Hertz-Component-Speaker-System/dp/B00F2PNBRM Are these the some of the size speakers I'll need, something seemed like it was up up when he said the mentioned speakers retail for 750 but I he was hooking me up for 470 just for speakers and components. Is there somewhere to order the right equipment wholesale and just have someone install it.
Could you maybe help me put a system together since you have earned my trust :).

Edit oh yeah I got quoted for around 2200 in parts and 1100 in labor and that was running just the door speakers and sub off a single amp I think I have speakers in the trunk and the front center, he said these wouldn't be necessary

Get high-sensitivity speakers rated over 90db. I have Polk db6501 components and they work quite well, and have a 92 db rating. They're so loud on 75watts x 2 that I have to dial back the gain from the head unit to keep them in line with my 3 subs running on 800 watts.

You should plan on getting an amp & sub to compliment your door speakers. I'd recommend a 5 channel amp with a remote sub controller like mine.

For a sub figure out the largest box you can fit in the trunk first, and then you can match a sub to it. Don't worry about rear speakers unless you're entertaining passengers.

You really can't do much without an amp, but if you have the same size speakers front & rear you can start with inexpensive speakers in the front and build the rest of the system with amp & sub. Then you can get new front speakers, and fit the cheap speakers in the back for ambience or just in case passengers are along.

deck: http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DEH-80PRS-Receiver-Crossover-Alignment/dp/B006Y44DAY this deck has every option you will never need for up to a 3 way system (high, mid, sub). you can take a step down and save money if you dont think you will ever go balls out on install.

sub amp: http://www.amazon.com/Kicker-ZXS1500-1-Mono-Class-Amplifier/dp/B0078G393O/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_0 there are MANY versions of this amp, many can be found for less if you are open to used. solid amp tho

sub: http://store.ficaraudio.com/bl15/ i have personally used/installed the 12 and 18" version of this sub and depending on box it can be made to be a SPL monster or a good sub for a loud but musical build.

speakers: http://www.amazon.com/DSK-130-Component-Speaker-System/dp/B0044AFR28 your jeep has 5.25" speakers. you can go up to a 6.5" if you want as that will give you better midbass but you will need to do modification to your speaker mounts to make them fit.

speaker amp: http://www.amazon.com/KICKER-DX400-4-4-Channel-Series-Amplifier/dp/B004UWLRJ2 this is a 4 channel so you can either run just your front stage bridged or you can run 4 speakers off this for expandability.

wiring: http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/amp-installation-kits/sp/kca-0-gauge-power-amplifier-installation-kit/

distro block: http://www.knukonceptz.com/mobile-audio/distribution-fuse-blocks/sp/konfused-2-way-fuse-distribution-block/

from there you will still need to build a box and some sound deadening if needed. you are at 1200-1300 with out shipping with these parts.

also needed is a wiring harness for your jeep, a dash kit, RCA cables, an AGM battery, and an alternator. all of this however is open to to many choices to list, we can go deeper into those parts once you know how large of a system you truly want.

I would generally stay away from 5 channel amps, because you can get more bang for your buck with two amps. This is what I think would be a good set up to go along with your subs/head unit.

• 4 channel amps: kenwood excelon x450-4 $160 (2 of my friends and I have this amp, and it's sounds great in all three cars)
  
• Mono amp:[ kenwood excelon xr-1s $230] (http://www.amazon.com/Kenwood-XR-1S-eXcelon-Reference-Amplifier/dp/B001UM1K2E) (list of sub knobs $10-$45)
  
• 6.5" front component speakers: focal IS165 $150 or JL c3-650 $280
  
• rear coax speakers (not sure the size): 5.25" Boston Acoustics SR55 $130, or the same 6.5" JL c3-650 (they are convertible)
  
  $670-995
  
  I'm not sure if these speakers are too deep to fit though, I've run into trouble with that before.

I miss my 4runner like hell. I had the same exact year. The Couple tips I'll give are as follows.

1. Rear speakers are not very important due to low mounting
   
   
2. When you pull the factory woofers cut the speaker out of the frame. Then mount that to the door. Put the speaker in place and run long screws through the plastic to the metal. This will help with clearance issues and having to do extra work drilling and mdf rings.
   
   
3. get a very small amount of deadening for the front doors. The lows are much cleaner. A MUST WITH NO SUB!!
   
   
4. Amp them if at all possible.
   
   Enjoy your 4runner. I loved mine. And I will have another some day
   
   Amp: $60
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GN5K650/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1465707141&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=2+channel+amplifier&dpPl=1&dpID=41GaE-RQw8L&ref=plSrch
   
   Components: $140
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008B5JPTS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465707295&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=hertz+component&dpPl=1&dpID=51V1OG4m70L&ref=plSrch
   
   Or these for $150. These have rear Fill out on the crossovers which could benefit you as well.
   
   http://www.woofersetc.com/c-172-speakers/c-10-compon-speakers/c-40-65/sxp65a-diamond-audio-6-5-150w-rms-sxblack-series-convertible-component-speaker-system-aluminum-tweeters.html
   
   
   Rear speakers: $ 85
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008B5C1C6/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465707841&sr=8-2&pi=CB192198896_AA75_QL70&keywords=hertz+5.25
   
   
   
   Wiring kit: $23
   
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005IY3BI6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465707977&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=knukonceptz+8+gauge&dpPl=1&dpID=51v-IV8NmXL&ref=plSrch
   
   
   I spent $307 very wisely. If you get a head unit from sonic electronics they give you the install kit. Some decent pioneer and Kenwood units are in 200 or so range allowing for a small order of sound deadening.
   
   I'd figure 250 to 350 for the radio making the total 557-657.
   
   30 is plenty to get some sound deadening. Making my total $587-687.
   
   Another option to help the speakers reach potential are the Mini amps you can install behind the dash. I really want to get you the sound quality you seek. But doing so effectively means a amp
   

Thanks for the info. Do you think the MTX amp would be worth it in the long run (like, would the Power Acoustik amp die on me)?

Also: I've heard that these Alpines are great speakers and I am wondering if it would be worth it to shell out the extra $50. Or maybe I should go with these Polks. You seem to be pretty educated when it comes to audio; what would your choice be?

These look pretty good: JBL GTO609C Premium 6.5-Inch Component Speaker System - Set of 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANI3LAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_W6jHzbECF9SVW

For a few bucks more, I've also heard good things about these: Polk Audio DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component System (Pair, Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_r8jHzbT4S09VR

http://smile.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459290714&sr=8-1&keywords=polk+audio+db6501 ..I've had these myself for 7 years and I love them. I have them and the db691 (3way 6x9) in my rear deck. The sound they produce is amazing, more so with an amp.

I'm not sure how the tweeters come out because I haven't changed my speakers over yet. In shaa Allah. But I do have a fairly high end set of Polk audio woofers and tweeters with crossover so you're not crazy for going that route. I've seen people wire in the mini amps like the one made by alpine which I also have.

So I'm pretty sure it's possible to wire in all that stuff. These are the speakers I have:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000P0R6LQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1465262462&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=polk+audio+6.5+speakers&dpPl=1&dpID=41lSW9Ti-gL&ref=plSrch

You mentioned you had a blueprint, is that a universal one that a craftsmen could use that would provide the best output or is it only for a specific spec/size?

Will check out those components, thanks.
To add onto this component, I saw these Polks on amazon for a good price.

https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497924801&sr=8-1&keywords=POlk+DB+6501

Would these work with the Alpine amplifier?.. i'm assuming they'd work with the one you suggested. Also, I was told (idk if this is bullshit or not) that when you are running two amplifiers, you want to have them be the same brand... is there any truth to this? Not that it's necessary, but preferred.

I somewhat have a hunch that this place has some deal/discount with Alpine which is why they suggest their products so much.


ALSO is this the rockford amp you are suggesting? --- would get this one if the amplifiers matching thing is bs

https://www.amazon.com/Rockford-Fosgate-R500X1D-1-Channel-Amplifier/dp/B00BF6HYDE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497925174&sr=8-1&keywords=rockford+500.1+amplifier

I bought these I like em they get pretty loud and the bass is good. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ZQWJFIA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_gXKkeMEfXpZUA

Ah, no problemo amigo.

You don't necessarily need 3 more speakers (per side) for the rest of the sound. You can get great sound from 2 (2 way).

If this is for a car, generally the other frequencies are taken care of by a coaxial speaker (mid woofer and tweeter combined into 1) or a component set (separate mid woofer and tweeter). The component sets are generally a 6.5" or 5.25" mid combined with a tweeter and include a crossover. The crossover filters the correct frequencies to the correct speakers.

For example, https://www.amazon.com/P660C-160mm-2-way-component-system/dp/B001GKAIFU

https://www.amazon.com/Image-Dynamics-IDQ65CS-Component-Speaker/dp/B0197NGN60



Go check out Crutchfield.com and plug in your car. They will be able to tell you what speakers fit your vehicle.

It looks like the stock locations can be easily modified to accept a 6.5" component set. Relevant threads here, here and a pic here.

This being said, the go-to on this subreddit would be the Polk DB6501s for the front and DB691s for the rear.

I'd spend the remaining $100 of your budget on sound deadening for the doors and rear deck.

I have had these for years and just love them, would recommend every time!!

https://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPR-60C-Audio-Component-System/dp/B004VBIEZW

Spend a little more, and get those. it's the best bang for the buck and they fit in most factory locations without mods.

Since you're looking at a whole system I'd look towards a 5 channel amp like this Kenwood. Polk makes good components. JL makes good SQ subs. That amp would power these fine. You're going to get a wide variety of opinions on this though.

They are 6.5 and I found these recommended in a thread with a few upvotes: http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ

Does that seem like a good deal?

A few reviews I looked at indicated that some kind of spacing is needed such as a mdf ring. Is this what is needed in the car?

So this is how i have mine set up.

iPad mini 3 128g>Lightning Digital AV adapter>HDMI cable>HDMI to Optical Converter>12V to 5V converter>Optical Cable>Alpine PXA-H800/RUX-C800>Alpine PDX-V9>Alpine SPR-60c>JL HO W6v3 Wedge

I have the hdmi converter plug cut and soldered to the stepdown voltage converter which is soldered to the back of the 12V Cigarette lighter all heat shrinked wrapped. The HDMI cable is extra long so i can have the iPad to the passenger seat comfortably. I did have a lightning cable extender that worked for a while but it suddenly stated that this cable can no longer be used for this device so i had to bring the AV adapter outside of the dash so it looks a little weird....but what are you gonna do.
As long as it sounds good i dont really care.
The RUX-C800 remote for the H800 is installed below my console near the gearshift in my Honda Civic 2009.

The installation took a bit of time since i couldnt leave everything undone because i had to drive it but i saved a whole lot of money.

At the moment i just have a magnetic holder stuck in my cd player slot to hold the ipad. I will be getting a prefab console ipad installation kit when i have the time to do so.

I was also able to leave my back speakers connected to the stock radio if i would like to listen to the radio for sports talk.

Thanks for the comment!

what do you think of these http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPR-60C-Audio-Component-System/dp/B004VBIEZW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371929199&sr=8-1&keywords=SPR-60C

would you recommend getting coaxial speakers in the rear?

Polk audio man. These cost a bit extra but would definitely be worth it.
http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1369987553&sr=1-1&keywords=Polk+audio+db

I didn’t have any luck finding a separate Hertz mid to match your tweeters but you could always get the Hertz DSK 165.3 component set that matches those tweeters and sell the two sets of coaxials.

If you’re feeling adventurous you could get a completely separate mid that isn’t a Hertz brand but there’s a lot of options out there and that could be a difficult choice to make if you’re not sure how they will pair with the tweeters. On the plus side you can tweak the crossover points a little to see if different LP/HP crossovers work better.

I'm running these after installing similar MB Quarts in my previous cars/trucks. They sound good, last long. You can make $100 speakers sound 10x better with the right prep of both the space and EQ setup:

MB Quart 6.5 Reference

1. Is my rear woofer will play louder without tweeter than with tweeter attached to it at the same volume?
   
2. How much better a morel tempo 6 component set compared to JBL 609C component set?

Skip the rear, put Hertz dsk 6.5 components up front.

A wire kit and amplifier , bridged into 2 channel

Fast rings

sound deadener like so


If you're feeling adventurous, pull the seats and put closed cell foam mat under the entire floor. Lots of road noise complaints about the CRV.

I'd skip the rear entirely, and I would never put coaxials in the front and then add tweeters.

Im open to it. Honestly I was think these Polks in the front at the most. Like I said, theres no reason to go full audiophile since its just a truck.

$120 Polk DB6501 for a component set or for a little less $80 for Polk DB651 coaxial They do quite well with deck power. Before I upgraded I had the 6501s in the front and 651s in the rear running off of head power with an MRP-M500 running a RE SE-X15 and they were pretty well balanced.

I really like Pioneer head units and their component speakers. Can't beat the price or quality. Here's a couple speakers for you....

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-D1730C-Component-Speaker-Package/dp/B00SI4RGIY/ref=sr_1_2?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1452802473&sr=1-2&keywords=pioneer+component+speakers

http://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-TS-D1330C-Component-Speaker-Package/dp/B00SI4RDIM/ref=sr_1_5?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1452802473&sr=1-5&keywords=pioneer+component+speakers

These fit in an 04 WRX with a spacer so look for speakers this size. Decent speaker too though a little trebly.

2000 Mitsubishi Monter Sport has: (2) 4" Dash speakers, (2) 6.5" Front Door Panel Speakers, and (2) 6.5" Rear Door Panel Speakers. Are you going with (4) 6.5" inch speakers for a total of $80? That's going to be kind of hard to do... But within guidelines, I'd say Precision Power PPI PM.654. I'd wait for sonicelectronix to get them in stock, or you can find them on amazon for more money. They seem to have a huge magnet for 6.5" and Precision power is a relatively good brand

Front speakers, I think that's all you have to replace currently.

Rear, handles all of my bass nicely, although I do have a shallow mount amp and an Alpine M500 in the basement for a rainy weekend.

Or buy a pair of door handles from a R53 that had the H/K package and get yourself these!

That's my pick. I would personally just buy the H/K door handles that have the tweeter built in, cut out the grill and set those tweeters in there however you please. I tacked them in there with a smidge of glue from a glue gun, then filled the rest with silicone. Haven't budged yet. You'll have to run the speaker wires through on your own though. I can post instructions for that if it's required.

Edit: Link

These.

Taken from a previous post

> I'm planning on getting the Fi Q 12 sealed w/1100 RMS Hifonics amp powering it and have these as my speakers

I see. Do you know of any speakers closer to the $100 mark? Checked my bank I got $390 to spend.

Edit: What would you say about these?http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ
I found them on the suggested FAQ

Oh really? this is the setup I got

http://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-DB6501-6-5-Inch-Component/dp/B000P0R6LQ

Edit I also have the speaker harness

Thinking on getting either infinity or polk or one of these in the search

Do you mean these?
http://www.amazon.com/Alpine-SPR-60C-Audio-Component-System/dp/B004VBIEZW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1421962066&sr=8-5&keywords=alpine+type+r+6.5++3+way

Thinking about this...

amp

DSO

speakers

Speakers

What do you think?

Here's what I ended up ordering, and I'm getting this installed by a local shop, so I'll buy the dash kit and sub wiring from them. They will also be building a custom box for the sub.

Sub: Kicker 10C124 Comp 12-Inch 4 SVC (single sub)

Amp: Rockford Fosgate R500X1D Prime 1-Channel Class D Amplifier

Front speakers: Polk DB6501 6.5-Inch 2-Way Component

Rear Speakers: Polk DB401 4-Inch Coaxial

Head Unit: Pioneer DEHX6600BT

So I'm thinking This amp with 2 sets of These speakers. I had and Alpine amp and speakers in my old truck and I never had any issues with them and they had no distortion when I cranked them up. I figure I might as well replace them all at once.

So you have these? They look a little more complicated to install. If that's not them, what do you have? Remember I'm an audio-newbie, so anything that involves an amp or extra wiring confuses me.

In my opinion, you made a mistake with those speakers. Those are some of the more harsh speakers on the market.

Not to mention that they don't even have a legit Crossover, they are basically coaxial speakers not attached together. for another 20$ you could have gotten the extremely acceptable Polk-DB6501 component set which has nice mellow tweeters, as well as a crossover that gives you three tweeter level options.

I know i'm not helping much by telling you that you got bad speakers, but thats what i suspect.

But, one other possibility is that you have some funky wiring going on... did you use the stock wiring? I'm not sure what the situation is with that car, but if if came with a separate tweeter/woofer component set stock, they may have some sort of crossover built into the wiring. You might try running some new wire and making sure they are wired correctly.

I'm looking at putting these in the doors. Trying to upgrade from these. The oval component speaker market is hella limited- slim pickins.

 

I also have an 8" sub, no name brand, will likely replace the driver with a shallow mount ??? brand woofer (haven't got that far yet- doing this all on a budget, so it's one thing at a time).

Update- I picked up this system: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000P0R6LQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Ill let everyone know how it is.
Question: Does anyone know where the hell the front most Bose speaker is? It is 3.5 inch but I legit have no idea where it is