Okay this is going to be long, but I wish someone had said this to me. Everyone here is telling you to build a PC, and I know that sounds like it's not an answer to your question.

But I was you a year ago. I had been a console gamer my entire life, deeply loved video games but never had a true reason to go to PC, but I played a VR game at my friends house and was instantly hooked. I couldn't believe how much I liked it.

So I got a PSVR, seemed like the cheapest way to get into VR, and getting a PC was really daunting to me. And I loved my PSVR! ...For a few months. But the more I learned about VR, the more I realized I was missing out on by only having PSVR. I wanted the actually good games, I wanted real tracking.

But I had no idea how to build a PC, I didn't even know where to begin. So I did what you're doing, I went with a pre-built. I got a pretty beefy "VR ready" pre-built, and it was great! I could play all the games I wanted to! I was finally a real VR gamer and I loved it...for a few months. But then I realized how much performance I was missing out on just because I had bought a pre-built. I now understood how a PC works, how the airflow and fans need to be set up, the relationship between CPU, GPU, heat, and gaming performance. And once I got an Index, all those problems were exacerbated. VR gaming at 90 fps on medium resolution is great. VR gaming at 144 fps on max setting is INCREDIBLE. It goes from being a really fun game to a transporting experience that often transcends feeling like playing a game. And for games like Boneworks and Half Life, you're going to want to feel like you're there.

So I watched a bunch of youtube videos and took the plunge and built my own PC. I sold my pre-built, I spent some more money, I got the best most cutting edge parts, and I don't regret a second of it. I'm still paying all that off (shoutout to Best Buy credit card 18 month 0% financing), but it was so worth it.

So my advice, as someone who got into PC gaming only for VR, is don't skimp now. Go big or go home. I started with a PSVR, and ended up with just about the most high end rig you could have. And if I had just done that in the first place I would have saved a lot of money. I wanted to keep it to $1300 or whatever I spent, but if I'd just spent $500 more I'd have been set and avoided so many headaches.

But you don't know anything about building a PC, and people just say "go to BuildAPC. But it's not that simple. Maybe you don't have the same problem I had, but I fundamentally did not understand how a PC actually worked. They were recommending components and I didn't know what they were even talking about. Here is the most basic crash course you can have in PC building.

------


A PC is basically just these parts you will need to get and click together:

Case + Power Supply + Mother board + Graphics Card (GPU) + Processor (CPU) + Memory (RAM) + Hard drive + Case fans + CPU cooler

That's it. It's 9 things, you mix and match,and they literally click together like Legos. If I had known that a year ago, I think I would have considered building one.

Here's my basic set up with links (all best buy except 1) and descriptions:

Case - I initially bought a cheaper case at Best Buy, but everything ended up not fitting in it. I ended up getting a slightly higher end case, with lots of room, and it was WAY better. As long as space isn't a huge concern, this case ended up being perfect for building my first PC. And it looks great and I know it will last me literally 10 years, I can just swap upgrades in. There are much more expensive cases, but I think this is as high as you need to go to get a "premium" quality case.

Power supply - This is what plugs into the wall and distributes the power to all the parts. You want a "modular" one, which means it is a box, and comes with all the power cables, and you only plug in the ones you need. Modualr on the left, non modular on the right. This saves a lot of space and is just way less of a headache.

Motherboard - this is the highway that routs power and data between all the components, and what everything will click into. You screw it on the case, and it basically becomes part of the case, and other things go in and out. This is admitedly the part I know the least about. You may want to make sure all the things you buy will work with it, there are some compatibility/power issues. But I think this board will work with everything I link here.

GPU - This is probably the part you have heard the most about. You can get by with something that costs half as much, but when you're getting an index, it's really helpful (especially as a newbie like me that doesn't know a ton about optimization) to just have a really powerful card. I have a 2080 ti, but that's going to run you $1200 right now. It sounds like that's not within reach. The best card for the money right now is this 2070 Super. It's about 70-80% as good as a 2080 ti in VR it seems. So you'll still be way better off than the vast majority of people, and for $500 instead of $1200...that's a great deal. You might struggle to hit 144 hz in every game, but I think 120 hz will be very doable in every game with that card.

CPU - This is the brain of the computer. Simply put, VR games eat CPU performance. This is the best Intel processor you can get right now, there's been a slight price drop as well. I wouldn't skimp here, this needs to be able to last you for years.

RAM - As far as I understand, getting super expensive way faster RAM isn't really insanely beneficial in a noticeable way. 3.2 ghz is what you want. You can get 2 of these packs and have 32 GB. Just know you usually need the same sticks of RAM if you add more. And RAM has to go in sets of two.

Hard drive - You probably know what a hard drive is, where all your files are stored. There are 3 types, HDD (do NOT get, extremely slow), SDD, and M.2 NVME (which is a super advanced SSD basically). I linked a M.2 NVME drive. When I had my old computer, the single biggest upgrade I made was going from an SSD to an NVME. My computer went from booting up in 45 seconds to 2 seconds. Everything moves really snappily. Games load way better, less time waiting in games (which is particularly bad in VR, because you can't look at your phone or anything). I highly highly recommend an M.2. It plugs right into a slot in the motherboard also, so it's easier.

Case fans x 6 - These blow air through your case, keeps everything cool, pretty self explanatory. No need to go too fancy here. If you get the case I linked you'll need 6 120MM fans for the best airflow, and I also got one additional 80mm fan for the back. If you get that case I can show you exactly how to set up the fans or there are lots of videos about this case. You could get away with less fans, but they're cheap.Better to over airflow than risk too much heat.

CPU cooler - The CPU gets really hot the more you do with your computer, and high level VR will heat that sucker up. This is called an "all in one" cooler, which uses water and a unattached heat sink to get the heat away from your CPU and out of the case. It's really easy, fits really well in this case, is better than the old fan coolers, and functions as an exhaust for the whole PC. Again, I can show you where I put mine in this case if you end up getting it.


And that's it. You screw in the motherboard (2 mins), slide in the power supply (1 min), click in the GPU (5 seconds), click in the CPU (30 seconds), slide in the M.2 drive (1 min), click in the RAM (30 seconds). attach the cooler to the CPU and the cooler to the case (5 mins), screw in the fans (10 mins), run power to everything/plug everything into the motherboard (15 mins, this took me a while on my first time, but maybe you're smarter than me), and you're done.

I added up everything I linked here, and it's $1,667, which is a little out of your proposed budget, but not too far. And then if you have the Best Buy employee discount, this is in your budget for sure (I heard you pay cost + 10%, which can be crazy low, your prices on this could be 30% less or something).

Sorry this is so long, but I wish someone had done this for me, I just had no basic roadmap. And now I have something I can link to people who I see asking this question here from time to time. Sometimes I find it is easier to learn from a dumb person who doesn't assume you know anything.

Let me know if you have any questions. You can do this! Can't wait to welcome you to VR.

CPU

Mother Board

GPU

8GB of RAM

1TB HDD for way more storage space then a console. You could drop the storage space to match a console and save a bit of money, but we won't do that.

PSU Cheaper/lower wattage for this build is possible, but it's better not to skimp

Disk drives are dying out and everything is going digital. Even consoles are showing massive growth in direct game purchases and downloads from PSN/XBL. But here it is if you want one.

Here's a few cases 1 2 3 4. Pick your case based on style, USB ports, whatever. All of those are 30 dollars or less and are mATX, meaning smaller form factor.

So now peripherals. Need a monitor? No you don't, plug it in to your TV. HDMI just like a console and consoles don't come with displays. You might have a monitor already.
Controller/input devices? PCs can use the old controllers you have laying around. Here's a keyboard and mouse recommendation anyway if you want one or don't already own them since most people own a computer for stuff outside gaming. That costs around half the price of an OEM console controller and KB+M is a more accurate input method. Controllers are a comfort thing and are best suited for driving games, but point and click with a high DPI sensor is much more intuitive and accurate than a controller with bad input filtering and clunky auto aim. Microsoft tried cross platform and keyboard and mouse destroyed gamepad/controller players. The only real cross platform right now is Rocket League because controllers are the better input method for driving so it's equal footing. But if you're playing Rocket League on PC, you load in faster. You'll be sitting on an empty field while you wait for other players to connect before the countdown and stuff starts, kinda neat. Also, that one I recommended has a button to change DPI/sensitivity on the fly, no need to bother with settings menus. Seamlessly go from sniping to roaming to driving. The keyboard is back lit and has a few color options.

Operating system? GNU/Linux is free and is getting more and more gaming support every day. It's not as hard as people make it out to be. Get a basic/user friendly distro like Ubuntu and all you really have to do is install. If you're a masochist, a developer, or a masochistic developer get a tougher distro like Gentoo. Funny thing as well, games with Linux support run better on Linux since it's such a great operating system on the software level. SteamOS is also free. Want Windows? Download the OS and put it on a disk or flash drive, install it on the new computer and enter the product key. Where do you get a product key? Don't buy it from a big box retail store for 100 bucks or likely more, you're getting gypped. You can buy 100% legit product keys online. r/microsoftsoftwareswap sells them for 20-25$ and the keys are straight from Microsoft

Also, all of those listings are from Amazon and are Amazon Prime eligible (for the other guy that replied to you that wants to complain about rebates/shipping/living next to a MicroCenter). You can find a lot of those parts cheaper and/or with free shipping. I recommend NewEgg. So you can do even better than the price I'm about to give you (which also means you can get better hardware for better performance):

Here's the itemized list with the prices: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/QBVRNG

$448.51 total for a PC that is massively better than current gen consoles. Drop the unnecessary DVD drive and the keyboard+mouse combo and the PC itself comes in at $402.93.

So... brand new parts from a large online retailer with a great support system. You can get even better deals on the parts if you checked other great online retailers like NewEgg. Ten years ago consoles absolutely made sense, but now leaps in hardware design have made better hardware cheaper and the tables have turned.

Does that "come close without cheating"?

Here's a few more kickers now that we have the hard price set:

AMD and Nvidia are about to launch a new line of GPUs, meaning current prices will drop (better performance at lower cost on that build I just gave you) and AMD is specifically focusing on lower/mid range market with higher performance and efficiency. It's going to be great for mainstream gaming rigs.

PC gaming is usually cheaper over time because Intel/Nvida/AMD don't charge development fees (they can't), neither can EVGA/ASUS or whoever makes the parts, neither can Microsoft. Steam takes a cut, but so do stores like GameStop. Stuff like that is why Steam can have massive sales consoles can only dream of and the developers can still profit from a sale. The only reason PC games are 60 dollars like their console equivalents is because it's the standard and they can "get away with it" (especially if you're Microsoft trying to expand Windows 10 and not alienate XBox), but they can make the same or more per sale at a lower cost.

PCs also have the largest game library of any platform and the massive free to play library that comes with it as well. And it's really free, not 'pay 50 a year for a subscription and get to play a game for a month' free

PC is, in theory, forever backwards compatible. Want to play CoD4? Don't shell out the money for Infinite Warfare, just install CoD4 and play on the servers PC still hosts. Games that came out upwards of 10 years ago can still be installed and run with no issue.

You don't have to double spend. No buying a console and a computer for work/school. Put your 300 dollar home computer and 400 dollar console prices together and you made a huge leap in budget to built a killer PC. You also get a much more versatile platform capable of running much more stuff and you get so much more control over your experience.

You may want to post this to the newly created /r/LinuxHardware, It'll likely get much more attention than this subreddit :)

As for your build and questions, lemme take a crack at it...

• While the i3 is a good processor, you may find yourself being quite limited in the near future due to it being only a dual-core CPU. An i5 would be a significant, and worthwhile investment. However I would personally recommend you hold off on purchasing the parts for this build (if possible) until January of next year, as that is when AMD will be releasing their new Zen CPUs, which look to be extremely competitive with Intel (unlike their current line-up, which is terrible). This will likely cause a significant price drop on all CPU's, meaning you will be able to get something far superior to what you currently have planned for the same price.
  
  
• If you don't foresee yourself ever needing a PCI-E slot for some other component, you may want to consider an ITX motherboard, as that would allow you to get an even smaller case, which is always nice :)
  
  
• As /u/Stealer0517 mentioned, Crossfire or SLI is virtually never worth it. It may become worthwhile if Vulkan or DX12 really catch on, and the Multi-GPU aspect is integrated into the game well, but until then, I would recommend a single card.
  
  >Will I be able to boot off a USB-drive when all my components are brand new and 'blank'?
  
  Yes, a USB drive with a distro .ISO written to it should boot straight up into a Live environment for you to install, though you may have to select the USB drive to boot from in the BIOS.
  
  >Do I safely assume here that the preloaded BIOS (or UEFI, not sure what it is nowadays) on my mobo will drive my monitor and keyboard for the pre-installation process of Linux?
  
  Absolutely. As long as the Motherboard isn't faulty, it will be able to display to your monitor either through your GPU, or the integrated GPU in your CPU, and any normal USB mouse & keyboard will be automatically detected and usable.
  
  >would I be wise to get 16GiB of RAM?
  
  More RAM is always a good thing, especially for VM's. However RAM is kinda expensive right now due to a shortage, so I would recommend getting 8GB for now, and upgrading to 16 of the same type/speed later. r/VFIO will be able to give you a better answer than I can, as I haven't dabbled with VMs much.
  
  >Do motherboards support or lack support for Linux?
  
  In general, most motherboard manufacturers support Linux pretty well, however some specific boards can have issues. You'll have to check on a case by case basis to found out if there is some incompatibility problems with Linux. (searching the model of the board + Linux in a search engine should be adequate).
  
  I've personally had bad luck with ASUS boards, not specifically with Linux, but in other ways (2 different boards made years apart that simply cannot reset without manually holding down the power button every time). But that may have just been a fluke.
  
  >Will an i3-6100 be able to handle 2-way CrossFire of a couple RX 460s "without bottlenecking"?
  
  It would largely depend on the game, but it is possible for an i3 to bottleneck in heavily threaded games. In games that don't use more than 2 cores (Skyrim), it would not bottleneck much if at all. But considering the appeal of these new API's (Vulkan & DX12) is how good they are at spreading the load across multiple threads, I would wager an i3 becoming obsolete rather quickly.
  
  >If I get an i5 can I forgo overclocking?
  
  Yes. I would actually recommend you don't get an overclockable K series CPU, as not only do these newer generation chips overclock badly and cost far more, I believe the K series do not have the required instruction sets for GPU-Passthrough in a VM.
  
  The K series simply isn't worth it. I would recommend getting the cheapest i5 possible, if waiting for Zen is not in the cards.
  
  >Would I get performance improvements from CrossFire connecting 2 entry level GPUs anyway?
  
  Yes, though crossfire currently only works in titles that explicitly support it, and even then often introduces a perceptible stutter in games, even if the FPS is high. I also believe Crossfire has much less support under Linux compared to Windows.
  
  In benchmarks, the 460 is generally 40 to 50% weaker than a stock RX 470, which would mean even in a best case scenario, crossfired 460's would get you to stock 470 levels of power. And it more than likely would be even less than that, as Crossfire tends to not scale linearly.
  
  So in conclusion, 2 460's would cost the same as a single 470, while giving less performance, and using more power :P
  
  
  
  
• Do be aware that AMD drivers on Linux still under-perform compared the Windows drivers, or Nvidia Linux drivers. AMD recently killed off their old buggy proprietary driver, and went whole hog into helping develop the open-source driver with the community. Because of this, the open-source drivers have come leaps and bounds in the last year, already surpassing the performance of the old drivers, while being very stable. They are slowly improving with every kernel update. :)
  
  Here is a recent benchmarking article comparing AMD and Nvida cards on Linux, which show the current disparity between the 2 drivers.
  
  Saying that, I personally switched from an Nvidia GTX 760 to an RX 480 due in part to Nvidia's business practices, as described in this video, as well as to support AMD's open-source efforts.
  
  
• Lastly, whichever card you end up going with, I would recommend that you buy it from Jet.com, but through the Ibotta app. The reasoning for this is to utilize multiple discounts, allowing you to pick up an RX 470 (or GTX 1060) for around the price of a single 460.
  
  How this is done: Signing up to Ibotta will give you $10 for your first rebate redemption (which you can achieve by using the 50 cents off coupon for any grocery store receipt), on top of this you will get 5% back on any purchases on Jet.com, as long as it is done via the ibotta app.
  
  On top of those, Jet.com itself gives 15% off up to $30 on your first 3 purchases. Combined with the ibotta thing, that results in roughly $52 off any card on their store. :)
  
  While this does at first look shady as all getout, I can personally attest to it being legit, as it's how I got my RX 480 for such a good deal :P
  
  And no, I'm not a payed shill, as Jet.com normally has pretty terrible prices were it not for this coupon deal, and the ibotta app is only marginally useful after using it for this. I learned of this method from r/AMD and r/BuildAPC.
  
  Anywho, hopefully that was all of some help. I wish you the best of luck in your future Linux build! :D
  
  Oh, and uh...If you do sign up to Ibotta, you can put in the referral code: cdccwpc
  
  during sign-up, which'll send $5 my way. :3

In terms of cases that are wider than they are tall, look good in a home theatre, but can also equip components fit for gaming the pickings are a bit slim. A lot of HTPC cases are designed for pretty low intensity components because they usually are built just for streaming. If you want to game on it, you probably have to make some compromises, but I am not entirely in the loop with all HTPC cases. Options I can think of are:

1. Silverstone Sugo SG08 $200 inc 600W PSU.
   The Sugo SG08 comes pretty close to fitting the bill. It is the larger brother of the SG05 and just a tiny tad smaller than the Node 304. It has a very clean, minimalistic look. It has a disc drive slot and ships with a custom small form factor PSU of 600W. It will take an ITX board and otherwise most standard components. Lots of high end gaming builds around, just google your parts to see that everything fits. Quite expensive.
   
   
2. The Node 304 + An external Blue Ray player $90 for case, PSU not included . This means you have the looks, form factor and power that you want, plus the media capability. Other than requiring a mini ITX motherboard it can pretty much fit "standard" components. An external USB Blue Ray drive can be had for as low as $30. Plug it in whenever you need to, or just leave it resting on top.
   
   
3. Silverstone Sugo SG05 $125 inc 450W PSU - This mini ITX case comes in white or black and looks similar to the Node 304, is a good bit smaller and has a slot for a disc drive. Small cases means that things become a little more fiddley. Things like cable management and good quality fans are more important to improve air flow to silence any noise in the living room. The case ships with a small form factor PSU with either 300W or 450W. You would want the 450W one for gaming. Alternatively you can buy a "naked" case and buy your own small form factor PSU. The smaller the case, the more research you have to do to make sure all the parts fit (i.e. water coolers etc), but SG05 builds are quite common, so just google away.
   
   
   
4. Bitfenix Prodigy $90 - I feel like a mini ITX discussion these days isn't complete without mentioning the Prodigy. Out of all the cases, the Prodigy is the easiest to work with because it is quite a bit larger than the other cases we have listed so far. That means it can be treated more like a regular PC. It will fit a mini ITX board and all regular components ... and then some. That means airflow is excellent and noise a minimum. The finish of the case is just a bit cheaper than the others here, and it has less of an HTPC look, but beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Many people swear by it. I have read that you can easily remove the 2 handles, to give it a smaller profile and a more "square" look.

If you're only really planning on gaming, you could probably get away with 8GB or RAM and an i5 4690k. The i7 isn't going to give you a whole lot more performance, given that you already have a pretty beastly GPU.

Here is something I threw together for you. I budgeted in a high end CPU cooler and a pretty nice case. The case also comes with 3 fans included, 2x 140mm for the front and one 120mm for the rear exhaust. Those fans are also based off of Corsairs AF120 and AF140 fans, so are highly optimised for airflow and are decent for silence. The CPU cooler also comes with 2 fans based off of Corsairs SP120 fans, which are optimised for Static Pressure (good for heatsinks and radiators). One downside to the case is that it doesn't have a fan controller built in, so if you want that, you need to spend $20-30 on one. I'd recommend something from NZXT.

I changed the CPU to an i5 4690k. Paired with the H100i, you should be able to overclock it to 4.5Ghz or more. The Asus Maximus VII Hero is supposed to be good and friendly for people who are new to overclocking. I plan on getting a Hero when I upgrade my PC. In fact I plan on getting the same CPU, CPU cooler and Mobo as you, just with a different case (Corsair 760T White.)

EDIT: Since I saw that you are interested in silence, you might like the NZXT H440 case. It trades a little bit of performance, for a little bit more silence.

Don't be put off by the thought of the Corsiar H100i being a liquid cooler. Its closed loop and maintenance free (almost: You may have to take off the fans every for months to clean dusk, but thats normal for pretty much every other cooler and even other components). No filling it with water or anything. Just attach the water block (small bit) to the top for the CPU pretty much the same way as any air cooler and screw the radiator and fans to the case, which will have holes that align. There are guides on youtube on how to install this cooler anyway.

8GB of Ram should be plenty, especially if you close programs when you're finished using them. I have 12GB of RAM in my desktop and running BF4, Fraps (for FPS), Skype and Chrome, as well as a few background thing, it only really uses 5-6GB. Using just chrome, its around 2 or so. I don't know if I've ever seen it go above 8GB of use. My Macbook on the other hand, is a RAM hog and uses 6GB when pretty much just using Chrome.

I changed the SSD to an Intel 530 240GB. Its not as fast over all as the 850 Pro, but its got really good consistent performance across different tasks (according to some stuff I've read and seen in videos).

I changed the GPU too. Its a little cheaper, but its got a non-reference cooler, so it should run cooler and have better performance, although it might not look as cool or the the cool green logo on the side. Who knows, maybe you might prefer the non-reference cooler design. I'd actually recommend waiting a while for Asus to release a DirectCU II OC GTX 980. There are supposed to be some manufacturing hiccups with the EVGA cards. Asus make some really solid GPUs. I have a GTX 780 with the DirectCU II cooler and its a beast.

The power supply is still a 750W 80+ Gold PSU, but its got a mode where the fans don't run (so they are quieter) until it gets to a certain load. Its also got some integration with the Corsair Link software (as does the H100i CPU cooler). Watch a youtube video on the Corsair Link software. its pretty cool for customising fans (or you can ignore it as its probably set fairly well by default anyway).

Thats pretty much it.

EDIT: Shit, accidentally wrote a feckin' novel. Sorry.

TL;DR: This is a good option 2.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $229.96 @ OutletPC
CPU Cooler | Corsair H100i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $97.16 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Asus MAXIMUS VII HERO ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $203.99 @ NCIX US
Memory | Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-2133 Memory | $92.99 @ Amazon
Storage | Intel 530 Series 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $119.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $88.97 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 980 4GB Superclocked ACX 2.0 Video Card | $569.99 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair 450D ATX Mid Tower Case | $99.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair RM 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $109.99 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $16.98 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) | $89.98 @ OutletPC
| | Total
| Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available | $1719.99
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-10-30 00:20 EDT-0400 |

Sorry for my delayed response too - this got lost in the pile so to speak. I loaded my Amazon cart up with $4,200 worth of goodies to save so I can link some options for you. Now, you're not going to get around having both the AGA cable and a TB3 cable going to your laptop. What you can do, however, is combine the electronics of the TB3 enclosure and the AGA into a small to mid size tower chassis if you don't want two separate boxes on your desk. There's pros and cons to that and it's a lot of work and takes a bit of skill but it's been done.

​

I'll break these down into two categories: enclosures that support a GPU and those that do not. The main difference is a) size and b) PSU capacity. If you went the route of hacking both the AGA and TB3 into the same enclosure you'd negate both of those and gain some extra flexibility.

​

GPU Capable:

1. HP Omen Accelerator. This is a fantastic device with unique styling. Not only does it support a larger than typical GPU but it has a slot for a 2.5" SATA drive, onboard gigabit NIC, 4x USB 3.1 Type A, 1x USB 3.1 Type-C, 500W power supply. This is a personal favorite of mine but tends to be pricy - currently on sale for $230 from $300 HP Omen Accelerator
   
2. Asus ROG XG Station 2. This also has unique styling but has a smaller footprint than the HP Offering. 600W power supply, onboard gigabit NIC, 4x USB 3.0. Way overprice at current listing for $549 Amazon
   
3. Razer Core X. 650W PSU, No extra connectivity $299 on Amazon
   
4. Akitio Node Pro- Compact size designed for portability - it has a carry handle on top. 500W PSU, Display Port for adding an extra monitor, and extra TB3 port for daisy chaining. $321 on Amazon
   
   Not GPU Capable - these are all much smaller in size
   
   
5. Akitio Node Lite - Display Port for adding an extra monitor, and extra TB3 port for daisy chaining $210 on Amazon
   
6. Startech TB3 Expansion Chassis - Display Port for adding an extra monitor, and extra TB3 port for daisy chaining $237 Amazon
   
7. OWC Mercury Helios 3 - Display Port for adding an extra monitor, and extra TB3 port for daisy chaining $199 Amazon plus 15% off coupon
   
8. Sonnet Echo Express - extra TB3 for daisy chaining, $199 Amazon
   
9. Sonnet Echo Express-III-D - This is a beast! It has 3 PCIe 3.0 slots which offers some pretty interesting possibilities especially for someone that works with lots of large video files. This one might also support a GPU. Has extra TB3 for daisy chaining, $899 on Amazon
   
10. Magma ExpressBox 3T - This also has 3 PCIe slots $999 OneStopSystems or $1099 Amazon
    
    ​
    
    I don't have any of these but I sure wish I did. Hope this helps...took a while to put together this list! The expensive units with the 3 extra PCI slots would allow you to add in extra NVME drives - either Intel's PCIe slot based drives or standard M.2 PCIe drives on a riser card. EIther would do the trick. I don't know how much data you work with but this would also allow you to add in 10gig ethernet to high speed data transfer to network attached storage or to add in a SAS / SATA controller and have an external storage array. This would allow you to have dozens of terabytes of high speed and data redundant storage.

Assuming you are talking about R-Pi, v3b.

All 32 bit and lower works flawlessly. This includes but is not limited to Genisis, GB, GBC, GBA, NES, SNES, PSX.

N64 is the most commonly discussed as it has a large library of great games that are also often 4x multiplayer. Most games work very well (e.g. Mario Kart), while some do not (in particular 007 Goldeneye).

Hardware:

• Raspberry Pi 3 - $36
  
• Samsung EVO 32GB Class 10 Micro SDHC - $11
  
• CanaKit 5V 2.5A Raspberry Pi 3 Power Supply - $10
  
• Addicore Raspberry Pi Heatsink Set - $5
  
• AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI Cable - 3 Feet - $5
  
• Official Raspberry Pi 3 Case - $8
  
  
  Total cost so far, $75. You can get a less expensive case that also comes with the heat sinks bringing your cost down to ~$65.
  
  Cheap right? Well, the one thing that is going to cost you the most in any of these builds is the controllers.
  
  I like:
  
  
• 8BITDO NES30 Pro Wireless Bluetooth Controller - $49 (x4).
  
  When I first bought them, they were $36 each, and I love them. They work really well via the Pi's built in Bluetooth.
  
  Another great option that works really well are the XBOX-360 controllers. Wired ones run you $27 each brand new, and wireless are $34/each, plus one adapter for the set.
  
  
  In other words, four good controllers are going to run you $100-$200. Which is the bulk of most builds. In a childs-only build, I am considering either wired XBOX-360 controllers because of their awesome cord break-away feature, or going even less expensive with the $12 SNES clones, though that eliminates the ability to play N64 and PSX.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor | £173.94 @ Scan.co.uk
Motherboard | ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | £109.99 @ Amazon UK
Memory | AMD Entertainment Edition 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | £12.49 @ Amazon UK
Memory | AMD Entertainment Edition 4GB (1 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | £12.49 @ Amazon UK
Hard Drive | Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | £86.62 @ Amazon UK
Hard Drive | Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | £52.98 @ Amazon UK
Video Card | MSI GeForce GTX 560 Ti 1GB Video Card | £166.27 @ Scan.co.uk
Case | Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case | £59.33 @ amazon.co.uk
Power Supply | Corsair 650W ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply | £78.78 @ Scan.co.uk
Optical Drive | Sony AD-7280S-0B DVD/CD Writer | £12.88 @ CCL Computers
| | Total
| Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | £765.77

I don't know why, but the Corsair 300R was not listed in pcpartpicker so I "tricked" a little bit and used a link to amazon for it. The i5 3570k performs even better for gaming than the i7 2600 (only benefit of i7s is hyperthreading, which is not used in games) and the ASRock Extreme4 is perfectly for overclocking (you will have to buy an aftermarket cooler for overclocking though). WD produces some very nice HDDs and caviar black is the fastest of their series (after the velociraptor). I included a 64GB SSD by Crucial for your OS and your most used programs. Crucial produces reliable SSDs with a great cost-benefit-ratio. I upgraded your 560 to a 560 Ti - however you can see, that everything is slightly over your budget. 560 is also a good card, so if you want to save some money, you could go with this MSI 560 for 130 bucks. The Cosair Case has a front and a PSU dust filter, USB 3.0 in the front and cable management and I think 650W will be enough for this rig (even if you SLI two 560 Ti).

For $2,000, you can score a pretty excellent VR dev rig.

If you're already using UE4, and you've got got your DK1, you're probably relatively familiar with the basic demands— The faster your CPU, the faster everything compiles, and more ability you have to get things done simultaneously outside your IDE. RAM is a similar story, as well letting you play with more polys and textures in whatever modeling program you use. For the GPU, various Oculus people have dropped the hint that you pretty much want a GTX 770 as a baseline for advanced apps [source]. That's consistent with what benchmarks have had to say about what it'll take to drive the (probably) 1440p CV1.

With regards to the OS, there are very few reasons to use Windows 7. You can read some reddit discussions about that here or here, but the moral of the story is that everything works better on 8 except maybe the layout, which you can change.

$2,000 is a good spot— it's pretty much where the bang-for-buck curve becomes a cliff. Here's about how that build looks:

Full-Featured VR Kit

| part | link | | price |
|:-|:-|:-|:-|
|cpu|Intel Core i7-4770K Quad-Core Desktop Processor (3.5 GHz, 8 MB Cache, Intel HD graphics, BX80646I74770K)|amazon|$299.99|
|video card|EVGA GeForce GTX780 SuperClocked w/EVGA ACX Cooler 3GB GDDR5 384bit, DVI-I, DVI-D, HDMI,DP, SLI Ready (03G-P4-2784-KR)|amazon|$509.99|
|ram|G.SKILL Value 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C11D-16GNT|newegg|$127.99|
|motherboard|ASRock Z87 PRO3 LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard|newegg|$94.99|
|power supply|CORSAIR RM Series RM750 750W ATX12V v2.31 and EPS 2.92 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Full Modular Active PFC Power Supply|newegg|$129.99|
|case|Corsair Carbide Series Black 400R Mid Tower Computer Case (CC-9011011-WW)|amazon|$79.99|
|ssd|Crucial M500 240GB SATA 2.5" 7mm (with 9.5mm adapter) Internal Solid State Drive CT240M500SSD1|newegg|$114.99|
|hard drive|Western Digital WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive, Blue - OEM|newegg|$59.99|
|disc drive|Lite-On Super AllWrite 24X SATA DVD+/-RW Dual Layer Drive - Bulk - IHAS124-04 (Black)|amazon|$20.65|
|operating system|Windows 8.1 System Builder OEM DVD 64-Bit|amazon|$92.00|
|fans|Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120mm PWM Fan (RR-212E-20PK-R2)|amazon|$32.00|
|monitor|LG IPS234V-PN Black 23" 14ms (GTG) HDMI Widescreen LED Backlight LCD Monitor IPS 250 cd/m2 5,000,000:1x2|newegg|$299.98|
|||||
| |See current build price with shipping and tax| total | $1862.55|

Learn more and customize this build at kit.computer.


This leaves you with wiggle-room, to make a couple decisions based on your uses and preferences. You could bump one of the monitors up to 27" 1440p, you could bump the very capable GTX 780 up to a 780 Ti, you could move up to 32GB of RAM, increase the size of the SSD, or just pocket the change. It really depends on what apps you're trying to produce, and what your workflow looks like— if it were me, I'd lean towards the 1440p screen, just for workflow reasons.

If you have any questions (or anything to teach me), let me know!

ABSOLUTELY.

The fact that it can even be done with stock parts (although granted it won't be aesthetically pleasing given the case restrictions), drives the point home, but that also limits profitability by the manufacturers, and like i said also makes them ugly, so it makes sense that companies like Valve are designing integrated-system boxes that can run smaller and trim the fat, thus making room for profit.

The other major sticking point is Windows, which is precisely why we have steamOS. I hope it catches on. Windows is a great general purpose OS, don't get me wrong, but it eats resources that could be used in gaming, and also would devourer $100 of your build unless you uh, have connections.

That being said, allow me to demonstrate:

PC Case & PSU: $50

CPU: i3-4150: $120

MOBO: MSI H81M-E33: $50

4GB Ram: Crucial: $36

WD Blue 1TB HDD: $60

MSI GT 640: $84

Grand total: $400

I'd bet that total it would smoke a ps4 or an xbone, too.

Edit: I can't math, I'm $16 over with the GT650. So here's a GT640 that makes it work. Still beats a console.

Edit 2: regarding lifespan, that's a silly restriction. First, I've gone through FOUR xboxes in 8 years. The last one has only lasted becuase i mainly switched to a PS3 in the last few (edit 3: Three PS3s, but IIRC only one was due to death, the first got sold). Having said that, I have every confidence the build above will last 8 years, provided it doesn't die in the first 3 months. PCs are like that. Either they croak right away because you did something wrong like not provide enough airflow or have a bad part, or they last forever, like the dell desktop I have sitting in my office with a Core 2 Duo from 2007, or the studio-pc my old band used to record our album that I'm SURE the singer never updated, and is running a Pentium 4 and Windows XP (he's of the if it ain't broke variety).

Besides, what someone else down the line said, if you're going to compare apples to apples, add xbox live/psn sub fees for 8 years in, that automatically adds another ~$400 to the cost of the machine. That's a HELL of a lot of headroom for upgrades. And this isn't even taking into account the general cheapness of games on PC vs. consoles. Games usually start $10 cheaper on PC and will tend to drop immediately after launch - if you can wait a day or a week, you can usually get most games for $35 or less, so figure an average of $25/game savings, lets say 4 games a year (hah), and we're talking ANOTHER $800 saved over the lifespan you are suggesting.

TLDR: PC is cheaper, but requires more commitment (duh). There is something to be said about the console's ease-of-use where even my 3-year-old son can figure out how to turn on the PS3 and watch a cartoon on Amazon or play Pacman, or turn on the Wii U and play NSMB or Pikmin 3.

I would recommend anything upgradable.

Macs have a reputation as being long-term functional (by that I mean a friend of mine is still using a MacBook Pro from 2008 as his home laptop) but if you want to upgrade your machine to keep up with high-end graphics rendering, Macs are not the machine to do it.

If you don't care about the OS, find a solid laptop with high RAM, and invest in an external graphic card enclosure that will allow you to run the monitors you desire along with the programs you need. CAD programs are more available for PC platforms, as are rendering programs.

Most people think a Mac is the answer to graphic design and architecture and it's just not true. A good high end graphic card requires power and an enclosure will allow you to use the laptop as a laptop with enough processing power to render images.

I would recommend something like this as an enclosure:

Razer Core X Aluminum External GPU Enclosure (eGPU): Compatible w/Windows & Mac Thunderbolt 3 Laptops - NVIDIA/AMD PCIe Support - 650W PSU https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CQG2K5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MlcxDbXAH4AWW

Along with a high-end graphics card (the 2080Ti is the fastest single-bay card you can purchase before you cross into the professional grade cards).

If you have a USB C or Thunderbolt-enabled computer this will be more than enough for your needs.

A 32GB RAM PC laptop running on the fastest i9 processors with a 2TB drive will maybe cost around $1,500.

An enclosure is around $300, and the graphics card can be from $300 to $1200 (and can be upgraded as required).

A 4k 32" IPS monitor might run around $400 or so; I have a 4k 40" monitor that I use as a primary with dual 32s for large projects on either side. 32" monitors are around $300 each if you aren't going for the gaming monitors; a 4k 40" might run $600 on sale.

And if you need it, you could easily add a NAS unit for secured backup for less than $1000.

A macro-enabled keyboard, mouse, command pad, and Spaceballs? Maybe $500 more. Battery backup UPS: $150.

Total expenses for a complete new machine setup before the program installation and licensing: $4,500.

Compare that to a high end MacBook. The same specification is $4,500 for the laptop ALONE.

Just the laptop.

In other words you pay for the design of the MacBook and the OS architecture. Not the power you receive.

You're paying for the shiny Apple emblem and the privilege to be a part of the Cult of Apple. You're also looking at, quite easily, $500 or more in repair when (not if, when) a single component of the MacBook fails that is not covered under warranty.

Edit to note: I am not saying that Macs aren't solid machines. But I am saying that you lock yourself into a system architecture model that is completely closed off, and if you don't know EXACTLY what you're doing if something goes wrong with it, you are going to be at the mercy of $15/hr Apple Geniuses to fix it, because that's how the Apple build is designed. And compared to a highend PC laptop, a MacBook is about 2-3x the price for the exact same specification.

There's other reasons to buy a MacBook, but by and large they're underpowered and deprecated the second you open one up, and they DO get viruses - you still need antivirus and security software running on a Mac regardless of what Apple's marketing department says.

I am also loathe to recommend a specific laptop to you. I have had very good experiences with Dell hardware, but not everybody has. My current laptop is a 2016 Alienware 15" with external graphic enclosure; but I also use a Surface Pro as a more portable machine.

The only thing I really can recommend to you is a machine that you are COMFORTABLE using. If you like drawing with a pen on paper, you might really prefer a tablet PC like the Surface or a Lenovo Yoga. If you're someone who prefers mouse-and-keyboard, you could go with a heavier laptop.

And if you're lugging it around a campus you really also might want to consider the weight - my Alienware is a hefty 10lbs of stupid weight (not including keyboard, mouse, power cords, etc), while my Surface is less than 5lbs (and why if I'm taking notes or in a meeting I bring the Surface and not the Alienware).

But really, consider what your needs are going to be and what kind of project space you use before you make a decision.

I would personally recommend the NZXT S340 Elite. Tempered glass side panel, fantastic internal design, and decently affordable to boot. It's a breeze to build in and has great cable management features. Oh, and there are color options if you're in to that.

If you want a less boxy look, the Phanteks Eclipse P400 is a great option as well. They also sell a "silent edition" for a bit more that has sound dampening material on the panels if you find that worth it.

If you want an even more exotic look, Phanteks also makes the Enthoo Evolv. It's a lot more expensive but you're getting an aluminum case over steel and in my opinion a sexier case overall.

You can't go wrong with any of those cases. I personally love the S340 Elite, as I like the boxy look and the cable management solutions it has are fun to use. You can make some nice looking builds in it if you're patient enough. But if you're willing to spend $150+, then your options start expanding and there are a lot of attractive options out there. Just make sure you price check everywhere, because right now prices are bouncing up and down due to sales and stock running out. The cases I linked are all more expensive on Newegg compared to Amazon. Just keep that in mind.

So this is a multi layered answer, I apologize if its a bit of rambling Ill try to make it as clear as possible:

​

The liquid cooler wont outweigh it because a liquid cooler still relies on airflow to cool the liquid in the radiator, so good airflow will make a liquid cooler perform better. If the case doesn't have a great way to move air then it can't really cool the radiator and you'll have higher temperatures.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Dust is a concern with most mesh front panel cases, most of them however use air filters to prevent dust from entering there. This doesn't catch all the dust because some dust is quite fine and small, but it does catch the larger debris.

Dust in a case is purely unavoidable though, cases always have openings somewhere and air either gets pushed in or out of those small openings. When its pushed inside through those small openings it lets dust in, uninterrupted. To prevent that having more air being sucked in through the front panels than you have air being pushed out will create a larger volume of air in the case which will force itself out of the openings in the case which dust can more easily get through, this prevents the dust from being sucked in while the pc is on. This is known as positive pressure.

In theory a solid case would potentially keep dust out, but in practice its not the case. These solid cases generally don't use air filters so the openings for airflow will be totally unguarded letting dust get in freely. Plus the impact on thermal performance from a closed case is quite significant actually.

If you did want to stick with the closed case, I would recommend this case personally from Lian Li. Its fantastic, one of the best cases on the market honestly. It has plenty of room for a radiator on the side, and fans on the bottom and top, plus thermally it performs quite well when setup properly.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If you wanted to see some of their other cases the Define series of cases somewhat fit the criteria I believe.

> I don't pay for cable so I have nothing to record

I don't pay for cable either. I use an antenna and I get about 30 channels.

>Private torrents have every show I've ever wanted basically unless it's some weird British show that I couldn't even DVR here even if I had cable ..

Well I happen to work in the industry, and I feel for me to pirate that programming would be a bit hypocritical of me.

AFAIK, however, you don't really see much pirating of shows like Meet the Press, nor do I easily see any ability to get any locally produced programming via pirating, including programs I worked on.

There's also a lot of oddball stuff that just isn't out there, or shows I just want to casually use as sort of background noise.

And then there's the fact this isn't using up some of my bandwidth cap with my ISP.

>I understand how the DVR is useful, but it's a lot of money/setup and again I don't want to pay for cable.

Well good news, it's not that big a deal. There are very basic and simple DVRs like the HomeWorx HW-150PVR, where all you have to do is add a USB hard disk. Pop an antenna and you're set. All done!

Or you can go a little more advanced. Get yourself a used computer for like $100 (I see some Core 2 Duo Mac Minis going for $100 and under on eBay, if you want something smaller), add a TV tuner (HDHomeRun Connect going for $77 on Amazon) and an antenna (I like the Winegard Flatwave since it has VHF elements in it and I live on the far side of the metro from the towers, $35 on Amazon, but depending on where you live you might only need an straightened out paperclip) and load it up with some software. You could use NextPVR if you want to stay in Windows, or if you're crafty you can use MythTV in Linux. If you like Linux, but aren't super confident you can use a pre-rolled distro like MythBuntu that has MythTV preinstalled and steps you through everything.

So that's about $200, plus $25/yr if you want more robust TV listings from SchedulesDirect (which I recommend). That's not that expensive, especially when you consider that's the price of a mid-range gaming GPU, and people spend twice that much on game consoles.

You could probably get that down a little cheaper if you look at busted laptops or trawled Craigslist for used PCs. You could run this on a Raspberry Pi if it had more RAM and faster USB disk access.

>Plus most WEB-DL's often look way better than any 1080p HDTV rip I've seen lately.

You should check your local broadcasters. They may be better than you realize.

Thank you for caring enough to stick with me in terms of responses. I really appreciate it. :)

I guess I'd like to be able to have a bit of both. Like, I want to be able to turn my graphics up and not have to deal with, like, 20 FPS. I know that, because I'm not putting like $1000 into this, I won't be able to run everything at 60 FPS ultra settings (or even high, in the case of games like Witcher 3) but I would still like to have a solid and strong computer that I can tweak over time. I am also willing to sacrifice graphical quality for FPS, as well. For example, I play Team Fortress 2 at basically the lowest settings on my laptop so that I'll have the highest FPS possible for my computer.

Also, I did some research on case sizes and what fits what, and I saw this case link that fits exactly what I'd like to use/have. I don't want a big tower because I want to be able to take it with me somewhat easily. I want something that's at least somewhat portable.

EDIT: I'm not sure if I said this earlier, but I have a hard drive and a SDD that I can put into it already, so you can subtract/not include that. I also have a valid Windows key, a mouse, and a keyboard. I don't have a monitor but don't include that either because I think I can find one of those pretty easily used.

Looking for some guidance on a cooling setup for my new build:

Here are the components:

Board: MSI MPG X570 Gaming Edge
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07T2FWCYG/

Case: Corsair Crystal X570
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LE0ZKR2/

GPU: EVGA 2080TI FTW3 Ultra (air-cooled)
https://www.newegg.com/evga-geforce-rtx-2080-ti-11g-p4-2487-kr/p/1FT-001K-003E4

CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07SXMZLP9/

What cooling setup would you recommend? Do I need to get a fan controller?

The case comes with 3 x 120mm fans, but I'd like to replace them with Corsair 120mm RGB fans for added control over the lighting.

I was considering a 6 x 120mm setup (3 fans up front, 2 top, 1 rear) but not sure if the motherboard can support that many fans (does the fan from the included CPU-cooler count toward the total?)... or if that's even an ideal setup.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated ❤️❤️❤️

Thank you!

EDIT: Here are the possible fan configurations for the case, but I'm not sure what's the optimal configuration and what parts I'd need to wire them to the mobo

This is a bit over budget, but I'll explain:

pc-kombo shared list

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD Ryzen 5 1600 | $259.99 @ Newegg.ca
Motherboard | Gigabyte AB350M-Gaming 3, AMD B350- | $113.04 @ Amazon.ca
Memory | G.Skill Aegis DDR4 DDR4-3000 8GB (8 GB) | $91.99 @ Newegg.ca
Storage | Toshiba DT01ACA100 1TB 32MB 7.200rpm SATA600 (1 TB) | $58.99 @ Newegg.ca
SSD | SanDisk Plus 120GB TLC (120 GB) | $89.99 @ Amazon.ca
Video Card | Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1060 OC WindForce 2X | $270.21 @ Amazon.ca
Case | NZXT SOURCE 340 Midi-Tower - schwarz/rot Window | $94.98 @ Amazon.ca
Power Supply | Corsair CX450 (450 W) | $49.99 @ Amazon.ca
Operating System | Windows 10 Home (32/64-bit, USB Flash Drive) | $177.99 @ Newegg.ca
Display | Viewsonic VA2265SMH | $149.99 @ Amazon.ca
| Total | $1357.16
| Generated by pc-kombo 27.09.2017 |

To be a bit future proof with streaming the Ryzen 5 1600 is really the best pick, as it is a strong hex-core processor. To get really good settings in Overwatch a GTX 1060 is helpful. I stayed with the 3GB version for budget reasons, but for esports title that really is okay.

The trick is that you do not have to buy Windows right now. You can use it without activation for some time, and pay for it later.

Note that this is the regular 340, not the elite. That would move the build over budget even with the windows budgeting. But if you can go a bit higher you could just swap the cases out.

No, don’t get that one. It’s only advantage is that it’s really really quiet.

IMO, there’re 2 top contenders for value: the Razer Core X vs the Aorus Gaming Box.

The gaming box is really really good: same performance as full sized cards but it’s really small and portable. The downside, which is the upside for the Core X, is that it’s much harder to upgrade; technically it can be done but not as straightforward as the full sized cards.

Resources:

1. https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Core-Thunderbolt-External-Enclosure/dp/B07CQG2K5K
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-Gaming-Graphic-Card-GV-RX580IXEB-8GD/dp/B07CCK527Y
   
3. https://support.apple.com//HT208544
   
4. https://9to5mac.com/2018/05/25/review-razer-core-x-egpu-mac-macbook-pro-best-external-graphics-video/
   
5. https://camelcamelcamel.com/ Amazon price tracker
   
6. https://www.amazon.com/Sapphire-Backplate-Special-Graphic-11265-21-20G/dp/B073BKYBC5 the card I’m using now. I can play rise of the tomb raider just fine
   
7. /r/eGPU
   
   And of course, Youtube. All “ships and sold by Amazon”; personally don’t really trust 3rd party sellers.
   
   Many people turn away because of the extra cost, it’s not cheap but I think it’s worth it in the long run. Many times my Mac was working fine but the card wasn’t good enough.
   
   When I play using my Core X, it isn’t loud (and I do it in my small bedroom with the room fan off and the air conditioning on so the only thing making noise is the eGPU itself).

It has a spot on the bottom to put in an SSD, then the shelf on the top can fit a single 3.5" HDD (like mine) or two 2.5" drives... ACTUALLY I just noticed that your HDD is 2.5" so yeah you should be fine! It would be a tight squeeze but would fit, and all that mesh comes in so handy to offset concerns over heat. I have the non-mesh front and still no worries over heat, but the mesh front would cool it more again and actually looks quite nice (looks terrible on the Amazon photo though).
It's on Amazon.ca for $58 CAD also, if I'm right Amazon include HST etc while Newegg (where it's 55) try to sting you with it at the end - https://www.amazon.ca/Silverstone-Computer-Front-Panel-SG13B/dp/B00U8IS89E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486738163&sr=8-1&keywords=sugo+sg13
Better photo - https://www.goldfries.com/images/hwreviews/2016/silverstonesg13/sugo_02.jpg
Decent video on a build with lots of stuff in it here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjDJNwAANwA (11:30 shows the two 2.5" drives on top, plus how close a fit the GPU is! :p )

So, so handy for transporting on the TTC compared to the larger ones!
By the way, how is the HDD performing? Putting together a budget build for someone and WD seem to be the best on price, but I'm just not too familiar with them as a brand.
It's on Amazon.ca for $58

>My main gripe with the shield TV is it has a fan.

LOL. I literally had no idea. I just looked up and realized you're right. I've certainly never heard it, but I do despise the moving parts.

>Care to share more details of your setup?

• This is motherboard combo I used. It's cheap (>$90), small (microATX), passively cooled (no fan!), very low powered (10 watt max, idle is something stupidly low), but still has more power than I'll possibly need on a file server. It still has a couple of PCIe slots (one mini) if I need it (like for more SATA ports beyond 4).
  
• I put it in this case so I have room for expansion (it holds up to 6 full size drives). Another advantage is this case houses a full size power supply. Yes, the case and power supply have fans: they are all large diameter, low RPM, and virtually silent. They also extend the life of the precious hard drives which is the main purpose of the server. The computer could work perfectly fine without any of these fans, and the case even has a built in switch for them.
  
• Currently it houses one small hard drive for the OS and two 4TB drives set up in RAID 1 array (everything is mirrored) because I'm not losing files ever again (my kids baby pictures are on here). I'm using Fedora with Amahi for easy setup.
  
  MB Combo + RAM + case + power supply was less than $200, so it was cheaper and more powerful than any of those NAS boxes sold commercially. As a test I recently had the OS HD fail (it was an old HD I had laying around). I had the server up and running after reinstalling the OS, remounting the array (Linux command line scary!), and setting up the network shares in less than a few hours.
  
  Here's a picture of it sitting under a table in my guest bedroom under the router and modem. It serves files over Samba shares to my Windows computers (laptop and gaming), ShieldTV, etc. Using Kodi (Plex was originally a fork of this) on the Shield with my movie and tv library is fucking amazing.

Actually no! Yes technology does advance at a rapid rate, but you don't need the best and highest end to feel secure with what you have. You can still game on a PC, but sometimes it gets tempting to add better parts to it. Here is my build.

Motherboard

CPU

RAM

Hard Drive

Case

GPU

These are the basics of my build. There are other things in it, but aren't important as of right now. The GPU, RAM, Hard Drive, and Case are what remain from the original build. Everything else either broke or were given away since I upgraded. Right now I am working on my last upgrade before I refrain from putting more money into my PC. I say this because there is a limit to how powerful you can make a PC before your next upgrade gives you diminishing returns.

If you set a goal for your gaming PC to be 1080p with steady 60fps and good graphics, then there are great budget builds on PC Part Picker. Feel free to head over to /r/buildapc for any questions you would like answered in their FAQ, or even ask me!

Well, in terms of CPU, get what you can afford. Right now the smart bets are the i3-6100 and the i5-6500. I've seen the i3 as low as $120 and I picked up my i5-6500 for $155.

Pick up a Cheap Z170 board with the processor, and stick some DDR4-2800 RAM to get the most out of it. Lower speed RAM and it's a little savings for a bit slower performance, while faster memory is very little more performance, but a jump in price.

In terms of GPU, I suggest either waiting for AMD's upcoming R9-480 and R9-480x or GTX1060/GTX1060-Ti cards. Both will be about that price-range, while at least giving the performance of an R9-390x or GTX980 respectively. However if you NEED a GPU right now, and the GTX970 is too much, just go with the R9-380x for around that price. AMD's cards have shown to be better prepared for future titles, and in general both the 380 and 380x are faster cards than the GTX960. If you have to stick with nVidia for some odd reason, the GTX950 would be a better choice in terms of value. I have my OC'd to the point that it performs about on par with a GTX960 and that card only cost me $120. I've seen GTX950's hover around that price as of late. Also, with the GTX1070 being $380, you might start seeing GTX970's drop to about $250 or so. In fact, EVGA B-Stock usually has GTX970's for $240-$260.

In fact here's a GTX970 for only $30 more than that GTX960.

https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/4iq30t/video_card_evga_970_ssc_22999_25499_30mir/

So between the GTX950 and GTX970, the GTX960 is kinda pointless.

For PSU's check out the EVGA 600B. I got one myself, and it supplies good power, is a trusted brand and was $35 when I bought it. Again, if you look and are patient, you should see them show up at that price.

If you wanna save money on the case, for half the price of that Bitfenix you can get the somewhat similarly styled Thermaltake V1.

http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-CORE-Extreme-Chassis-CA-1B8-00S6WN-01/dp/B015UDUAKG/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1463021241&sr=1-2&keywords=Thermaltake+V1

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Description|I present to you my latest Build in the gorgeous Corsair Crystal 570X!⤶It's a Corsair themed RGB Build featuring a Ryzen 7 2700 @ 3.9GHz and a Zotac RTX 2070 AMP Edition @ 2040MHz. ⤶⤶DETAILS AND BENCHMARKS ON PCPARTPICKER: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/t9YTwP⤶⤶One of the fastest and most reliable ways to get Parts is with Amazon Prime! Get a 30 Day Free Trial now!:⤶ US: https://amzn.to/2TuQB44⤶ Germany: http://www.amazon.de/primegratistesten?tag=l2ptink3r-21⤶Need some simplistic and stylish basics? https://represent.com/store/l2ptink3r-apparel⤶⤶-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------⤶⤶Parts (Affiliate Links, you support me by buying over one of the Links!):⤶AMD Ryzen 7 2700: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2RSusv4] [US:https://amzn.to/2DlmJ36] [UK: https://amzn.to/2I40qon]⤶⤶Corsair H60 (2018) 120mm Liquid Cooler: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2BtoFXf] [US: https://amzn.to/2WV1HRS] [UK: https://amzn.to/2DlnsRS]⤶⤶Asus ROF STRIX B450-F: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2DoLnjF] [US: https://amzn.to/2WV33vW] [UK: https://amzn.to/2BvQSNd] ⤶⤶Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16GB 3000MHz: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2SlX0SC] [US: https://amzn.to/2WSbLv8] [UK: https://amzn.to/2SniFK5]⤶⤶Samsung 970 Evo 250 GB M.2-2280 SSD:⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2tikZ64] [US: https://amzn.to/2GzWvgC]⤶⤶Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2BxwxXP] [US: https://amzn.to/2tj8YNL] [UK: https://amzn.to/2HZjPXs] ⤶⤶Zotac RTX 2070 AMP Edition: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2GiaxUN] [US: https://amzn.to/2GziaFR] [UK: https://amzn.to/2THDuN4] ⤶⤶Corsair Crystal 570X RGB ATX Mid Tower:⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2Srqajv] [US: https://amzn.to/2tgMSvw] [UK: https://amzn.to/2UUpQGH] ⤶⤶be quiet! Pure Power 10 CM 600W:⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2HZmwbw] [US alternative: https://amzn.to/2tinbKQ] [UK: https://amzn.to/2UPdv6z]⤶⤶Corsair SP120 RGB: [DE: https://amzn.to/2RPlyOF] - [UK: https://amzn.to/2SpEBo6]⤶⤶-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------⤶You're interested in me building you a PC aswell and live in Germany? DM me, where ever you want! :D⤶IG: https://www.instagram.com/l2ptink3r/ ⤶Twitter: https://twitter.com/l2pTink3r_Jonny⤶⤶-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------⤶⤶MY RIG: ⤶YT: https://youtu.be/XN-H_yHpjwU⤶PCPP: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/7cYTwP⤶⤶MY SETUP:⤶ASUS PB277Q 1MS WQHD Monitor: ⤶https://amzn.to/2Bcvdc3 / https://amzn.to/2Lbd8zs / https://amzn.to/2Bt6ujH⤶Razer Tresher 7.1 Headset: ⤶https://amzn.to/2BbP9eT / https://amzn.to/2PzqtSE / https://amzn.to/2Rdhr2Y⤶Razer Leviathan Soundbar: ⤶https://amzn.to/2C7SXzH / https://amzn.to/2QN2tjH / https://amzn.to/2Bxn8yR⤶Razer Blackwidow Chroma X (I fucking adore this Keyboard, check it out!): ⤶https://amzn.to/2SGGyYX / https://amzn.to/2QsxWZo / https://amzn.to/2R9rUw5⤶Razer Taipan Mouse: ⤶https://amzn.to/2zW4uAt / https://amzn.to/2PzKMQe / https://amzn.to/2EEGjdZ⤶⤶-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------⤶1. Track: Bach: C Major Prelude⤶⤶2.Track: Sub Urban - Cradles [NCS Release]⤶Music provided by NoCopyrightSounds.⤶Watch: https://youtu.be/Hn4sfC2PbhI⤶Free Download / Stream: http://ncs.io/CradlesYO⤶⤶3.Track: Cartoon - Why we lose (feat. Coleman Trapp) [NCS Release]⤶Music provided by NoCopyrightSounds.⤶Watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyXmsVwZqX4⤶Free Download / Stream: http://ncs.io/whywelose

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^/u/SmallYTChannelBot ^made ^by ^/u/jwnskanzkwk. ^PM ^for ^bug ^reports. ^For ^more ^information, ^read ^the ^FAQ.

I've built in a lot of different types of cases and I have to say that building in a cheap case has been pretty much just as easy as the expensive ones. It seems people exaggerate the performance/ease of building in fancy cases. Actually my first PC I built in the same one you picked out, it is a nice case!

This case is pretty much the cheapest one you can buy but I've built in it a few times already and it's worked great.

There's also this one which is in the same series just slightly different design and comes with two fans for around the same price.

This is a really interesting case and was more difficult to build in because it's a mini-itx, so you would have to find a mini-itx mobo to fit but if I remember correctly a standard atx PSU fits in this one. It's a really unique case and has one big fan for good cooling.

I have a favorite budget case but it is no longer available which is sad because it was an amazing case for the price. You can get it on ebay though, which is better than nothing!

I went to bed haha, so replying now


This is pretty much the Reddit go-to case.



https://www.amazon.com/S340VR-Elite-Computer-Matte-CA-S340W-B3/dp/B01LZQMXJT


I've got one and it's great, clean, easy to build in, you can choose whichever colour you want, good cable management, it's fairly small for a mid tower, 10/10 would recommend.


For mAtx



https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16811352065



Everyone on here seems to love the thing



Itx case in the same style as the others,



https://m.newegg.com/products/N82E16811352062



You'll want an SFX PSU for this, and I'd suggest a blower GPU if you didn't already have your GPUs

> Pentium is better. You even admit to this in another post. Not much more expensive either. If you are thinking of using the bottom of the barrel of Celeron's, then be my guest, but i would never recommend it, even to someone i hate.

Celerons are sufficient. They don't need anything more, frankly. It does the job, and probably no worse than the Pentium.

>If your using Seagate, your already doing it wrong.

Bad grammar aside, I'm not a big fan of Seagate because I find them loud and not as fast, but the SSD takes care of the speed issue, and cost is more important. Barracudas are good, and I know there used to be issues a long time ago back in '07. I love WD and only use their drives, but this isn't about my personal use. It's for everyday customers. I actually use the Blue, but the Barracuda is cheaper, particularly if you look at the 2 TB model compared to WD's slow Green.

Why in the world would you go Mini-ITX? No. That makes the motherboard unnecessarily expensive, the case awkwardly shaped for the setups I know, and heavily restricts upgradeability. Micro-ATX is much better if you want to go small but still be affordable. I've already made a build for a customer with a motherboard like this and this case, which I really adore because it's nice to work with and looks good.

> If you want integrated graphics, you might as well just go use an APU instead

For everyday use, you could even get by on motherboard integrated graphics, not even Haswell's pretty decent integrated graphics for this purpose. FFS, I saw people running Minecraft on old Sandy Bridge integrated graphics decently, and Haswell's offerings are far superior. Unless they specifically ask, they don't need a dedicated GPU. That's an unnecessary expense, and you should never buy a GPU that low-end. I thought that was common knowledge. I mean...wow. Just wow. Your inclusion of the GPU makes me seriously doubt your knowledge of building. Don't be rude if you don't have a clue what you're doing, and you're just making it more apparent. This doesn't seem to be the place for you.

>You don't NEED windows.

They do. It's for everyday users, remember? They've got work to do, and you'd be amazed at how much important software for an office job is Windows-only. They want familiar. They don't want to deal with the oddities of Linux.
/r/softwareswap was what I used to use, until they banned the distribution of Windows keys.

>All you seem to want is something that can run facebook and maybe skype, along with possibly solitaire.

Ugh, so why did you type all that out because you didn't read my post?

I bought an adjustable standing desk base from Amazon or Wayfair, you want something electric like this.

A standing desk mat is also a must-have. Spend the extra money and get a higher quality one than the Amazon basics. Those flake apart and break down fast. I have been using this one for about 2 years now and it's holding up great.

After a week or two you can stand all the time at your desk, no issues. I find it much more enjoyable than sitting. I stand 99% of the time now.

If you're like me and your job is more about getting your work done than making sure you stare at a screen for 8 hours a day, then I would also suggest a switchable USB hub that lets you change your mouse/keyboard between your personal PC and work PC easily. This also helps save a ton of space. Something like this.

As far as monitors, I just use different inputs and use the same monitors between work/personal PCs. Work on inputs 2, personal on input 1.

If you find you can't focus when you need to then you might need to separate work and personal computers/setups more.

>How hard is it to set up RAID? Is it just using multiple drives or is it splitting up data and storing them on all drives?

In this scenario, you'd be using RAID to mirror data across two drives. The computer would see two 1TB drives as a single 1TB drive. These days, the process is pretty straightforward.

>I also see the tower being really expensive. Is there a real upside to that case I don't know about?

It's a popular choice for custom water-cooling systems, which need a lot of room to route the hoses. But for a closed-loop cooler like the H100, it would be pretty extravagant. For full towers, you'd be fine with something like a HAF 932 Advanced, or a Switch 810 (definitely recommend buying that one from Amazon, because the other sellers are asking at least $20 more to ship it). For mid-towers, there's the 600T, or the 500R, and NZXT also has a mid-tower Phantom. Just to name a few.

Use that savings to get a better power supply, like this rebadged Seasonic, or this other rebadged Seasonic, or an Antec Truepower New. The 850w versions of those Seasonics are not much more, if you want even more headroom.

I have the exact same setup at home!

I tried sharing the kb and mouse for a while, but in my stubbornness to not buy a USB switch to do that properly I ended up instead with a somewhat low-tech solution of putting my dock right against the front of the desk so that I just use my trackpoint + thinkpad keyboard when it is docked. When I want to use my desktop the kb tucked away in the back swaps places with the ultra dock / thinkpad.

If I wanted to do this more properly, I think I could achieve it by buying a USB switch like this one and keeping the dock permanently in the back. What I like about my current setup is that I can continue to use the Thinkpad's screen while it is docked for a terminal screen right above the kb, while the main screens are used for productivity.

As for how I switch the monitors, I have a pretty low-tech solution: suspend/sleep the computer I'm not using and let the monitors automatically resolve the active input port.

I dont know if you got the reddit gold i just gave you but thanks! haha

There are some things i want to change in the build and was hoping if you could let me know if it works

https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Computer-Tower-Cases-CA-S340W-B3/dp/B01LZQMXJT/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1482246523&sr=1-1&keywords=nzxt+s340+elite will everything fit in this case instead?

and i will change the os to a usb stick since i dont havea cd drive.

for the graphics card i was considering getting evga because of their customer service. is that a good idea or does it not matter?

what monitor do you suggest id keep an eye out for?

That's awesome man. I just made gaming PCs for 2 friends with similar specs in the mini itx core VI case. Not quite as small as yours, but it has enough breathing room. It is awesome and I'm definitely going the mITX route when I need a new MOBO

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Black-Computer-Chassis-CA-1B8-00S1WN-00/dp/B00M2UKGSM

I am all about it. The only real loss is dual video cards but that doesn't seem like it ever works out economically anyway.

As everyone else has said, the I7 and 16gb Ram is a bit overkill for gaming. But I will say I went with the 1060 for my friends and it is doing very well. I think it is plenty good for the near future

i thing this one matches your setup the best. I would say that something that is subtle and hidden but still has the ability to stand out in the room. I looked for sideways ones because that's what you are hoping for but anything that is black with either no glass windows or has one with a little to no rgb would fit the setup nicely.

this one is a good "looks like a box of tech" one that fits the room without going nuts https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Grandia-Aluminum-Computer/dp/B00KHO0MRK?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

​

this one is very standout and would be WILD for your setup but would make the room have a center piece that pops

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Panoramic-Certified-Computer-CA-1E7-00M1WN-00/dp/B015U7LXO4?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_5&th=1

That console is pretty low end to be honest. The problems are the RAM (only 4GB), and the graphics for this says "Custom Nvidia Maxwell GTX CPU". I would go custom build, but you don't want to :(. There are very few good cheap prebuilt PC's

This is an ok prebuilt PC

Try pcpartpicker, ask on /r/buildapc. Custom built are really the way to go nowadays :).

Check this out:

GPU

CPU

RAM

HDD

CASE

PSU

It's a pretty decent build. Not great, but inside your price range. I know it's definitely better than that console.

If you want a decent gaming PC, check out the subreddit buildapc.

So for $10 of led strip and $25 of controllers you'd be able to make 10 sets of strip kits for $35. Selling at $20 each would net $200 and then $165 after materials and probably $130 profit after shipping and magnets. You can probably get an even better deal on the rgb led strip as well to increase profits.

Overall I'd say it is a pretty good deal but I wouldn't buy it for only 1 foot of led strip. Especially not $8 for another foot. Great for people who don't want to solder and/or just want an easy kit. This however, also exists and is only $17 with prime shipping.

Yes. The HDHomeRun is the best device for the purpose, just be sure you get a model for over-the-air channels and not the one for cable channels. The older model HDHomeRun DUAL (model HDHR3-US) works well and is a little less expensive than the HDHomeRun CONNECT, though either should work. Amazon links are:

https://www.amazon.com/SiliconDust-HDHomeRun-Definition-Digital-HDHR3-US/dp/B004HO58SO

https://www.amazon.com/SiliconDust-HDHomeRun-CONNECT-broadcast-2-Tuner/dp/B00GY0UB54

Both models have dual tuners so you can watch programs from two different channels at once, or if you have PVR backend software such as Tvheadend, MythTV, MediaPortal, NextPVR, etc. installed on a computer, you can record from one channel while watching another, or record from two channels at the same time. If you have any experience at all with Linux then I recommend Tvheaded, but that's a personal preference.

On your computer (or home theater PC, if you ever want to watch using a TV) you would run Kodi (please be sure you get the official Kodi from https://kodi.tv/download and not from some sleazy third party site that might contain malware), or you could even view the stream in VLC or possibly your operating system's media player, if that's your preference. Kodi just makes it a little easier.

The nice thing about the HDHomeRun device is it does not have to be connected to a computer; it streams directly through your network to whatever computer is requesting the stream. With a USB tuner stick you'd need to have it plugged into a computer somewhere to work. Also, you can locate the HDHomeRun wherever your antenna cable enters your house, as long as there's also a local network connection available. So if your antenna wire comes into the basement you can put the HDHomeRun there and still watch it on a computer in an upstairs bedroom, as long as there is a network (LAN) connection at both places, and electric power of course.

It's not Prime, but it's in stock and has free shipping in both black and white. But it's not the only decent case.

https://www.amazon.com/Lian-Li-PC-O11DX-Tempered-Computer/dp/B07F9TC5W7/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?keywords=lian-li%2Bpc-011%2Bdynamic&qid=1567972168&s=gateway&sprefix=lian-&sr=8-1&th=1&psc=1

Either way, I would look up reviews in the future. A case might have good airflow, but be bad in other areas like build quality so it's hard to give you a definitive answer. If your budget was smaller, a slightly cheaper case wouldn't even be a consideration. But since it's pretty decent, a case that is a little more expensive (even if you don't go with the Lian li), and can support more fans/has better cable management space is a decent expenditure.

As far as color scheme goes you should have gone with the MSI gaming 770 for the red, but otherwise looks nice. If you had purchased some things from places other than newegg you could have saved yourself 75 bucks or so

Phantom

H100i

840 pro

Cheaper PSU perhaps?

Final Product looks great though. Nice build overall

> Its night time for me, but if you'll hold on buying till at least tomorrow I'll try to give you a couple of other options. Look into mITX gaming rigs and see if they peak your interest. If they don't we will probably go mATX.

> If you have a particular case in mind (really the most personal part) let me know and we will just pick the innards from there!

Continuing this here. Are these the small cases mentioned? Because they are freaking adorable! So small, it's so cute! Hell it looks like my first CD player, almost. Is there a downside to these? Do they overheat easy or anything? They're so cute, and I can't really tell, but they look like they might be small enough to take with me to league tourneys, instead of having to switch to my laptop a week before the tourny to take it. Anyway, here's a link list of cases I have perused in the last 45 minutes and like from a pure aesthetic look. 1-3 I think are the baby ones. I included other sizes too just in case.

1. (Baby) This red brick with handle
   
2. (Baby) The white version of it
   
3. (Baby) The see through radio
   
4. (Mid) This ridiculously girly and over the top pink case.. roflwtf
   
5. (Mid) This white one that reminds me of a classy car
   
6. (Full) A big red hulk
   
7. I don't know the size but the things are on the top! How cool is that!
   
   Bed time for me too, I'll be around on my phone tomorrow. I crossed out #3 because after looking back at them, it was least impressive, and I was too lazy to take out the text and redo my list numbers.
   
   Edit: On second thought I just can't do the ridiculously girly one either. I'd love to, but at the same time I would also loathe myself. I refuse to be one of those people. ^^^no ^^^offense ^^^meant

This is a pretty sweet build. It doesn't look like you're really overpaying much either.

Edit: Actually you could go with this case if you want to save some extra money. It's extremely solid and very roomy to fit your 980. It has some awesome 120mm fans and you can choose to get one with a clear side panel.

I just recently built my m-itx rig in a Silverstone SG13B:
https://amzn.com/B00U8IS89E

Took some man handling, but the challenge was the best part. I picked it up for $46 w/ free shipping. Best case I've ever owned.

Android TV very good setup and will fit your budget read the reviews from the buyers that's only opinion that matter from people that actually own these products.

TCL 55S405 55-Inch 4K Ultra HD Roku Smart LED TV (2017 Model) $349.99 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTGM5I9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

NVIDIA SHIELD TV Gaming Edition | 4K HDR Streaming Media Player with GeForce NOW $199.00 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1NT9Y6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SiliconDust HDHomeRun CONNECT. FREE broadcast HDTV (2-Tuner) $73.95 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GY0UB54/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[2018 Latest] Amplified HD Digital TV Antenna Long 65-80 Miles Range – Support 4K 1080p & All Older TV's Indoor Powerful HDTV Amplifier Signal Booster - 18ft Coax Cable/USB Power Adapter $27.95 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FVLXHYV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks alright, but this PSU is better for the money.

I also think the A90 is a bit overpriced for what you get. I mean, for that much, you can get the vastly better In Win BUC, the NZXT Tempest 410, the HAF 922, the CM690 II Advanced, almost the Corsair 400R, or the Cougar Evolution.

Personally, I'd get the Microsoft Sidewinder X4 over the Razer Lycosa. For mice, I'd look at the Logitech G500, Gigabyte GM-M8000X, or NZXT Avatar S.

> I also might want to get a set of LED fans for the CPU cooler; would it be worth it?

IMO, no. They look tacky and are usually crappy and loud fans, not to mention overpriced.

> Any other things I'll need to build the PC I would love to know about? Any kind of grease, tools, etc. I would need, let me know.

Nope, you should be set.

Hello, Goodbye~ :D

I would love to have this case when I can finally afford to build my new PC. It's so roomy and beautiful and sleek!!

Thanks for the super awesome contest!!

I was choosing the 'L' CPUs not really for power consumption but rather for cooling needed as I would expect to be able to run with less noisy fans with those. Does that make sense or heat generated wouldn't change for the use cases mentioned above (prob CPU not running very high load).
What other cases do you have mind that would fit a nice little NAS? I looked as well at this SilverStone Mini-ITXcase or this Fractal Node 304

Based on the comments on this thread, looking into a e5 whitebox, but definitely not the e5-2640 - expensive CPUs even 2nd hand!

I use the new Sony GOLD Wireless Headset, which is made for the PS4 for sure (with 7.1 spatialization) but it works perfectly wirelessly as well with the USB dongle (included with the headset) on the Shield... and even on pc/mac, smartphone and Switch if you have a USB-to USB C adapter, which is pretty cool !

I don't know if the Shield could work with 2 Sony Gold headsets. (1 dongle 2 headsets ? But i guess 2 dongles and 2 headsets should work, after all they are 2 USB ports on the Shield. )

Concerning your question "Will the Shield transform the DTS audio into PCM?" Yes it's not a problem, the Shield "adapts" the sound with the codecs your headphones can decode. I use Kodi with 4K DTS/AAC/PCM videos without a problem. The only codec problem i've got is with 4K shows on Netflix (can't launch the show with my headphones plugged) and HBO app is not supported as well :/

Also, i bought a usb switch. I plugged the headset USB dongle on one end and connect my PS4, my Shield TV and my Switch on the other end, you have to tap on a button to switch between devices though https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=UGREEN+USB+Switch&qid=1556409282&s=gateway&sr=8-3

So when i want to listen my shield TV with my headset, i simply press the button swapping. I don't find any seemless USB switch though.

TL:DR 2 Sony Gold Wireless Headset + One USB switch with 2 commutators should do the trick most of the time and you still can have your soundbar or any other added sound systems.

I got some random LED strip setup on Amazon for $14.99, I just connected it to a SATA power cable and it came with a remote. Pretty easy to set up. Super Bright Computer LED Strip Kit - Vibrant LED Computer Lighting LED Computer Lights - RGB Multi Color 2pcs 20inch LED Strip Light with Multi Function RF Remote for Desktop PC Computer Mid Tower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01AZ4XX0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8mM6BbWFH5FN9

Yeah sorry I realised it wasn’t the easiest to follow when I read it back! Nope nothing special about them but they don’t appear to support Remote wake for USB so I can’t get my setup to wake either laptop by moving the mouse unfortunately which would have been a nice to have and to save from opening the lids of the laptops should either be powered down.

Here is an Amazon UK link to the USB 3.0 UGreen switch, the other is the same but only USB 2.0:

UGREEN USB 3.0 Switch, 2 in 4 Out Put USB 3.0 Sharing Switch Box Box for Mouse,Keyboard,Scanner, Printer with 2 pcs of 1.5m USB 3.0 A to A Cable https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Zmj0Bb2MCNZXR

I stan Phanteks cases something fierce. I've built in the P350 and P400 multiple times for friends and they're great cases for their price range.

If you're adding 4 fans to it though, I might recommend going to the Enthoo Pro M. It's a bit more expensive, but has a larger interior that makes having several fans a lot easier to work with. It also has a rack of sorts for a radiator, although you can just put fans on it. Slides in and out, really dope. I have the smaller window version rather than the full tempered one like my link that was less expensive but I haven't been able to find that one for ages now. I think they may have discontinued it. If you can find it somehow, it'll probably be about $10 more than the P350X (if the prices are similar to when I purchased) and it's just a smidge better internally.

However, if you want that RGB, then you go with that RGB big dog.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $203.37 @ Amazon
Motherboard | ASRock H110M-ITX Mini ITX LGA1151 Motherboard | $67.99 @ Amazon
Memory | GeIL SUPER LUCE 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory | $55.99 @ Newegg
Storage | A-Data Premier SP550 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $37.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $49.99 @ Amazon
Case | Corsair 380T Mini ITX Tower Case | $124.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ Newegg
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $630.31
| Mail-in rebates | -$20.00
| Total | $610.31
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-02 06:17 EDT-0400 |

Hokay, so your budget is actually quite huge, but I thought of this case (which kinda screams "Lan box" IMO) and just had to get it in there. If you don't like it, here are some others that came to mind:

https://www.amazon.com/Apevia-X-QPACK3-WHT-Micro-Gaming-White/dp/B00ZPURD9Q?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-CORE-Extreme-Chassis-CA-1B8-00S6WN-01/dp/B015UDUAKG?ie=UTF8&tag=pcpapi-20

Would you like wifi? I would have much preferred to put this mobo in instead, but wasn't sure if I should since the Amazon version was so much more expensive.

The PSU selection was a bit limited due to the case as well, and I had to get pretty far up in price to find a fully modular unit that I liked. I feel kinda bad about going over on such an easy budget!

First thing is you need to decide what you want. I get that you want a cabinet, but do you want one that is full sized or something like a bartop model. If you want a full sized cabinet, you can either find plans and build it yourself or search around for an older cabinet to repurpose. If you want a bartop, again you can build it yourself, but you can also find rather inexpensive cabinet kits that are pre-cut and ready to put together.

Once you decide on your cabinet, you need to plan on what you want to put in it. The basics you are going to need can be found below as well as amazon links to get you started.

Raspberry Pi 3 link

Raspberry Pi Case link


Arcade Buttons & Joysticks link


Speakers link


4:3 ratio monitor link

power strip link


Micro SD Card link


Ultimately, it is your decision how you want to go with this. Building an arcade system is all about customizing it to your personal tastes. Once you have the materials, there are tons of tutorials on how to get retropie set up and running.

Really all you need is the Raspberry Pi 3B and the recommended power supply. That all comes in a kit for $42: https://www.amazon.com/CanaKit-Raspberry-Micro-Supply-Listed/dp/B01C6FFNY4/

The official case is very nice, and just snaps together. It's eight dollars: https://www.amazon.com/Official-Raspberry-Pi-Case-Black/dp/B01F1PSFY6/

The last thing you need is a Micro SD card. I use a lot of Pis at work, and have had the best luck with the Samsung cards. I use these as they're reliable and give you a lot of storage for not a lot of money: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-Class-Adapter-MB-MP32DA-AM/dp/B00IVPU786

If you want to get some for him that might spark a little hobby interest, they also sell a camera for the Pi: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LY05LOE. There are all sorts of libraries for writing software to use the camera, and if you do get the camera for him have him look up "OpenCV" to get started with programming for it.

1. If you're buying an AIO, don't get a 2700x, just get the 2700. The 2700x's advantages are a better stock cooler and better stock clocks. Both CPU's overclock the same, and your mobo supports automatic overclocking, so with an aftermarket cooler they're effectively going to be the same CPU, but at different prices.
   
2. If you're just gaming (eg. not streaming or doing mutli threaded productivity tasks) you could get an R5 2600 and it would offer the same performance as 99.9% of games don't utilise the extra cpu cores / threads that a 2700 offers.
   
3. Given your case has a window, I'd suggest swapping to an m.2 based sata SSD (it's just a form factor change, prices and speeds are about the same)
   
4. Spending $80 on the 2 extra RGB Fans for the AIO is kinda dumb, eg. you could get this AIO that includes RGB fans, saving yourself $50. You won't really see those fans though anyway, as you've got a solid front cover.
   
5. I feel similarly about $120 on 3x RGB fans, seems like it'd be a lot cheaper to get 3 plain fans and a seperate RGB kit
   
6. The money saved on RGB fans would likely be sufficient to upgrade to a 1440p/144hz monitor.
   
7. Your PSU is fairly low quality too, I'd suggest getting something better given the overall price of the system.
   
   Build with changes: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/dwsGCb
   
   >Also please excuse how stupid this sounds (Like I said this is my first PC build) but do the AIO fans push or pull? and what should my Fan setup be?
   
   Depends on how you set them up.
   
   Imo, in your case, you should use 4 fans on the AIO, 2 on each side with the AIO in the middle (this would be a push/pull setup)
   
   Pair that with 1 exhaust fan at the top -rear of the case and one exhaust fan at the rear of the case.

I second your recommendation with a change to the case : http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0055Q7BR4/ref=mp_s_a_1_16?qid=1419295247&sr=8-16&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

Corsairs have a better reputation and are easier to build and manage cables. Plus cleaner better design IMO.
Also if you can get a 650watt powersupply from season or corsair. As it will allow you to upgrade to higher end cards should you have the opportunity
Also get the Cooler master Hyper 212 EVO CPU cooler cools a ton better and quieter $25 or Corsair A50 cooler $39

Look at /r/retropie - it's more focused on these projects.

At minimum, you'll want: a [Raspberry Pi 3 ($35)](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CD5VC92/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Sb.pzbAZKNASG), a case ($7-$20), a power supply ($10), an HDMI cable ($7), one or two controllers ($15-$30 each), and a micro SD card ($22 for a Class 10 64 GB). There are a lot of threads about which controllers are best - I'm a fan of the wireless 8bitdo SNES30 / SFC30 (usually cheaper on eBay).

You don't need any programming experience to set it up, though you may need to edit some configuration files to set certain things up properly. I've built 2 of these to date - they play anything up to and including PlayStation 1 consistently well. N64 is very hit and miss, though Mario Kart 64 and Kirby 64 work well.

The Phanteks Pro M (mid-tower) costs a bit more than your current budget (it's $94), but it has great airflow and critical acclaim, unlike the case someone else linked here. It's the one I personally use for my system; I would recommend adding an extra fan or two to it, though (Noctuas are great).

Here's an Amazon link to it:

Phanteks Pro M Series (PH-ES515PTG_BK) Tempered Glass ATX Mid Tower Case, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LRVHH6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_P2VQDb9KG51SD

Yes, it's black, but I really don't see why white vs black would be a game changer.

So, had to kill some time on the toilet anyways.

This is the correct one (althoug none of those would be bad).

> also why a better case?

The case is what you're going to put your parts in. It's nice to have some cablemanagement, good airflow, some modularity (like removable drive cages), and last, but not least, good looks.
Here are 2 recommendations: Source 210, Carbide 300R

I generally prefer to spend more money on a case (~$90-$150) to get those good looks combined with nifty features, but I don't know if you want to pay that much for something to " simply put your parts in".

And yes, it can take an SSD. It can take in fact 6 SSDs at SATA 3 (also known as SATA 6 GB/s (SATA 2 is only 3 GB/s i think)).

Sure!

So, below are my system specs. The process is hugely CPU bound, so if you can get something better, I would. I'm thinking about upgrading to a dual-socket 16 core Xeon in a few months.

For software I use Windows Media Center (in 8.1). The scheduling manager is probably a 3.5/5, it's all there it's just a pain to use sometimes because it was designed to be navigated with a remote so you have to click a lot for some things. The shows come in WTV format, which I assume is an AVI-like container because the files are gigantic. The program MCE Buddy takes those files and can generate MP4/MKV with .NFO files auto-magically with filters and naming conventions. It's basically a scheduling manager wrapped around ffmpeg/handbrake.

To strip commercials it uses a program called comskip which does a decent job out of the box, but you can spend some time fine tuning it (I spent 5-6 hours one saturday to just get SLIGHTLY better precision on the commercials, I've just started accepting a few slips).

For the last step I wrote some software I called torrentula that extracts screens and crawls for additional meta-data before wrapping it all up in a RAR/ZIP/TORRENT file. It's not ready for other people yet, but I can throw it on github if you wanna give it a try....it's just really raw still. Shameless plug to my twitch stream where I do walk throughs a couple times a week for a few hours on how I program these tools.

Storage can be whatever, I just have simple volumes in Windows.

For Library management I've surrendered to the Plex machine. It's not the best, but it's good enough and works without much configuration. Too resource intensive for me though.

• i5 4690k @ 4.5 Ghz
  
• 8 GB G. Skill 2133 DDR3
  
• ASRock B85M-ITX LGA 1150
  
• 24 TB of WD Storage (3, 4 and 5's)
  
• Cooler Master HAF Stacker 915F
  
• CORSAIR Hydro Series H50 120mm Quiet Edition
  
• 3 x 120mm Rosewell 75 CFM case fans
  
• SiliconDust HDHomeRun PRIME 3-Tuner
  
• SiliconDust HDHomeRun DUAL 2-OTA Tuner

Thanks! As for the lights, the ones behind the monitors is a 4 strip RGB LED kit from IKEA. However, I would just recommend going on Amazon and getting a kit similar to the ones I post below. The only reason I got the IKEA ones is because I worked there at the time and it was a little cheaper, otherwise I would have gotten the ones on Amazon since they are a much better option.

For inside the desktop, I bought a kit that is essentially the same LEDs I was talking about before, but instead they are adapted so that it plugs into a 4-Pin molex.

Computer Tower RGB Light Kit:* https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AZ4XX0E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
***
Monitor/Desk/Room Lighting: https://www.amazon.com/SUPERNIGHT-Waterproof-300LEDs-Flexible-Controller/dp/B00B2F3KDQ/ref=sr_1_7?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1465874461&sr=1-7&keywords=rgb+led+strip+with+controller

On a side note, these LED strips are great because they can be cut to size, and if you have extra left over you can just get another controller and remote to have multiple lighting locations. And if your'e handy enough, you can technically just make the lights for inside your case on your own. As long as you know how to solder that is.

Sory about the essay. Hope this helped!

Thanks for the quick reply! I think I'd be content for awhile with a 6 bay solution. Plex transcoding is definitely a requirement. I really like your CPU/Mobo choice, so I'm looking at the Fractal Design Node 304 and wondering if it'll fit. This is my first PC build and I'm excited and a bit overwhelmed.

https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mTCrxr/cooler-master-case-mcy005pkwn00

or

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LRVHH6K/?tag=pcpapi-20

Those would be my picks here. Both have a 5.25in slot for a fan controller, and both can be fitted with tempered glass. The CM model is modular, so you can fit it out more to your liking. Would cost more to fit with glass, since you'd have to order it from them. The Phanteks Pro M TG model is VERY nice though. I guess this all boils down to how much cash you want to spend.

Get a Pluggable USB-3 dock, a male DVI to female VGA adapter, a USB 3 sharing switcher, and a female USB 3 to male USB-C OTG cable. I promise absolutely nothing

• Install the appropriate DisplayLink drivers on each computer
  
  
• Plug the computers into the host USB ports of the USB sharing switch (use the USB OTG cable to connect the Mac)
  
  
• Plug the Pluggable dock's host USB cable into a peripheral port of the sharing switch
  
  
• Plug the DVI to VGA adapter into the DVI port of the Pluggable dock
  
  
• Cable up the monitors
  
  
• Pray
  
  Plugable USB 3.0 Universal Laptop Docking Station for Windows (Dual Video HDMI & DVI / VGA, Gigabit Ethernet, Audio, 6 USB Ports) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ECDM78E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_30Q1Ab3BX3P9J
  
  UGREEN USB 3.0 Sharing Switch Selector 4 Port 2 Computers Peripheral Switcher Adapter Hub for PC, Printer, Scanner, Mouse, Keyboard with One Button Swapping and 2 Pack USB Male Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_53Q1AbPGC4FS6
  

Yeah I'll have to take my rig back when i start school in the fall so this will save me some hassle. With your recommendations I think I'll go with a...

Case: NZXT Phantom 410 Mid Tower USB 3.0 Gaming Case - White - $84.99

GPU: Powercolor Radeon HD 7870 Myst edition - $229.99

Monitor: Dell UltraSharp U2312HM - $197.99

Grand Total - $512.97. I've heard good things about that monitor and think it'll be worth the extra $13. Thanks WHY111, I really appreciate it

You'd be able to game very well and with an upgradeable GPU solution if you paired your Mac with an external GPU. It'd be about $299 for the enclosure and then I'd get a 1050 Ti on sale here for $169. Your i7 quad will handle modern games very well, you have a lot of decent-speed RAM, and the best factor: your computer isn't going to be a massive ugly box or tower. You'll have the small form factor holy grail.

In short: you already have some great hardware, give it the eGPU to make it a great and highly portable gaming solution. About as portable as my DAN Case A4-SFX build.

Edit: I wanna openly disagree with people arguing to just buy a PC and those upvoting them. What is the point of this sub if this happens?

So, it's 4 in the morning over here, so my grammar and typing might be off, but here's what I got:

https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Wired-Keyboard-Mouse-Bundle/dp/B00B7GV802/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499668820&sr=8-1&keywords=amazon+basic+keyboard

Amazon Mouse and keyboard combo - $15.00

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824009421&cm_re=Acer_G236HL_Bbd_23-Inch_Screen_LED-Lit_Monitor-_-24-009-421-_-Product

Monitor $90

https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-DDR3-1600-PC3-12800-CT2KIT25664BA160B-CT2CP25664BA160B/dp/B006YG88YY/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499672261&sr=1-4&keywords=2gb+ddr3+ram

Reliable company and you can make use of dual-channels

$29.99

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0088PUEPK/ref=twister_B01MU9EG5O?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Get a Western Digital hard drive, both a hair cheaper and more reliable.
$47.99

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LUH1N4O/ref=psdc_229189_t2_B00CPLGFM4
AMD A8-7600 Quad-Core Get it on amazon or newegg, these sites have good return policies in case something happens. Superbiiz charges $8 for shipping so the cost is the same. $65.00

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-DDR3-2GB-Graphics-GV-R724OC-2GI-REV2-0/dp/B00JRSPXMQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499671186&sr=1-1&keywords=amd+r7

Graphics card - $57.99

There is a $10 rebate going on so you can get it for $47.99

Although this is a low-end graphics card, you can crossfire this with the APU to get better performance.

MOBO

http://www.microcenter.com/product/446287/GA-F2A68HM-H_FM2_ATX_AMD_Motherboard

This allows for a dual graphics set up. - $49.99

Power Supply

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F5LX55K/ref=twister_B01G69E69E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

A good supply - $37.99

https://www.amazon.com/ROSEWILL-Computer-plastic-computer-FBM-01/dp/B005LIDU5S/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499674177&sr=1-3&keywords=rosewill+case

Annnnnnnd a case - $31

The total cost is $415...

Edit: after looking at u/Wings0fLiberty 's post, the power supply ( I decided on a similar one) could be found for $26.99 on newegg, and a case for $24.99.

With these changes, the build would be withing budget.

The NZXT Source 340 is popular (also found in white).

Also the more expensive Fractal Design Define R5 (also found in Titanium Grey and white).

Many enjoy the cheaper NZXT Source 210 (also found in white) and the bit more expensive NZXT Source 210 Elite (also found in white).

And of course NZXT H440 (also found in other colors and the Razer edition).

Also Corsair have made some nice cases. Especially their Obsidian series.

In the end it depends on your budget and I have just linked some of the most popular which should be for every budget!

Yes, a lot of the good cases are even cheaper than those giant towers.

Core V1 Snow Edition Also available in black.

Cougar QBX More ventilated "Kaze" version also available.

Raijintek Metis

Core 500 This is the one that I am currently using, and I have an i7-8700, GTX 1070, 4 drives, good temps and fan noise is lower than whispers. You can't tell it's on unless you look at it on the ground. I bought this case when it was $55.

I've built in all but the Cougar QBX, which is a Hardware Canucks Damn Good Award winner. There is a limit to how much power you can squeeze into it, but guess what? Newer generation processors and GPU's are so energy-efficient and run so cool that the ceiling is always quite high. These cases are all ~$50. People who are downvoting me, people who are Mini ITX "denialers" are running on old and outdated information.

So like I was saying, most people have absolutely no need to not build mini ITX if they aren't going a K processor. The majority of people buying K processors don't even need it, and are wasting money by "futureproofing".

Geez that's a lot of HDD, I would of suggested a more conventional ATX case with no optical/hdd cage and powersupply cover such as a Phantek P400S.

If you're using a couple of these purely for storage you could leave them outside of the case and use a HDD dock to use the extra ones.

xD Ill just throw some cases that look flashy (they all have different color options) you'll probably need to look around your self and find what you like.

• Corsair Carbide Series SPEC-ALPHA (Cheap, with conventional layout inside, flashy outside)
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-SPEC-ALPHA-Mid-Tower-Gaming/dp/B017XPPH9I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1462892826&sr=8-4&keywords=Deepcool+Genome
  
  
  
• DEEPCOOL GENOME (Comes with AIO that is integral for aesthetics, can also side mount the GPU!)
  
  http://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GENOME-pre-installed-Controllable-breathing/dp/B01AA1L3PE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1462892826&sr=8-2&keywords=Deepcool+Genome
  
  
  
• Thermaltake CORE P5 (For custom loops)
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Liquid-Cooling-Computer-CA-1E7-00M1WN-00/dp/B015U7LXO4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462892995&sr=8-1&keywords=Thermaltake+frame
  
  
• Phantek P400S (Quiet & Minimalist outside)
  
  Im using the Phantek P400S, its like a upgraded version of the NZXT S340, allows for more cooling options, same amount of storage, however 2.5" HDD or SSD are hidden, comes with top better filters, sound dampening foam, fan control for 2 fans, small RGB led strip in the front, However it doesn't have enough slots for your storage, it effective hides most of the cables, tho can get in the back, especially if your using a non modular PSU (Heres a picture of my setup: http://i.imgur.com/UK7W6Nj.jpg (Ive upgraded to a 280MM AIO mounted in the front))
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Eclipse-P400S-Silent-PH-EC416PSW_BK/dp/B01BLY9MTI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462893232&sr=8-1&keywords=Phantek+P400s
  

For something drawing such little power you could go with a PicoPSU:

http://www.mini-box.com/picoPSU-80-60W-power-kit

They're super efficient and no fan, I've got one in my HTPC with a Celeron G1610. Then you could pick pretty much any small case that fits your needs without worrying what PSU it comes with. Some nice little ITX cube cases:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H8946JM

http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Tek-Mini-ITX-Computer-SG05BB-LITE/dp/B00CKNOVN2

http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Core-Computer-Chassis-CA-1B8-00S1WN-00/dp/B00M2UKGSM

This is a very good starter set for a very good price for a Raspberry Pi 3.

LoveRPi Raspberry Pi 3 Plug and Play Starter Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IYBZEV6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Yu2U5O43hfGxI

If you want a case for it this is the official Raspberry Pi 3 case for a very good price.

Official Raspberry Pi 3 Case - Black/Grey
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F1PSFY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_cRryTCgDxRWmY

You will all need controllers.

Do a Google search for RetroPie. It will provide the software to run the games but not the actual game roms (you're suppose to own the games to play them) but a Google search will point you in the right direction.

Hope this helps.

Sim Racing Hardware:

• Fanatec DD1 Wheel Base $999.95: https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/wheel-bases/podium-wheel-base-dd1-usa.html
  
• Fanatec ClubSport Steering Wheel BMW GT2 $299.95: https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/steering-wheels/clubsport-steering-wheel-bmw-m3-gt2-us.html
  
• Fanatec ClubSport Shifter SQ V 1.5 $199.95: https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/shifters/clubsport-shifter-sq-us.html
  
• Fanatec ClubSport Handbrake V1.5 (Since you're interested in dirt/rally racing) $119.95: https://www.fanatec.com/us-en/sim-racing-hardware/clubsport-handbrake-v1-5.html
  
• Heusinkveld Sim Pedals Pro: https://heusinkveld.com/products/sim-pedals/sim-pedals-pro/?v=7516fd43adaa
  
  ​
  
  Sim Racing Rig:
  
  (both are 80/20-based and 4 Play Racing is the best deal for Americans):
  
  
• 4 Play Racing HD rig: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-PLAY-RACING-RACE-HD-Platform-Rig-Simulator-Cockpit-for-OSW-Open-Sim-Wheel/332849054973?hash=item4d7f5984fd:g:MDEAAOSwwPFZyo7n (aluminum) or https://www.ebay.com/itm/4PLAY-RACING-RACE-HD-Platform-BLACK-Rig-Simulator-Cockpit-for-OSW-Open-Sim-Wheel/332848075954?hash=item4d7f4a94b2:g:MDEAAOSwwPFZyo7n (black)
  
• 4 Play Racing triple monitor stand: https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-PLAY-RACING-Triple-Monitor-Stand/332855460882?hash=item4d7fbb4412:g:WzQAAOSwAL9UjoM2 (aluminum) or https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-PLAY-RACING-Triple-Monitor-Stand-BLACK-Anodized/332848083750?hash=item4d7f4ab326:g:WzQAAOSwAL9UjoM2 (black)
  
  ​
  
  PC:
  
  (some of these prices may have changed)
  
  
• Case Phanteks Enthoo Pro M $98.49: https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-ES515PTG_BK-Tempered-Brushed-Plastic/dp/B01LRVHH6K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1527118419&sr=8-4&keywords=phanteks+enthoo+pro
  
• Motherboard ASRock Z270 Extreme 4 LGA 1151 $154.99: https://www.amazon.com/ASRock-Z270-EXTREME4-CrossFireX-Motherboard/dp/B01NBEX0EK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527118509&sr=8-1&keywords=asrock+z270+extreme4
  
• CPU (Central Processing Unit) Intel Core i7-7700K $299.99: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Desktop-Processor-i7-7700K-BX80677I77700K/dp/B01MXSI216/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1527118533&sr=1-1&keywords=7700k
  
• PSU (Power Supply Unit) EVGA SuperNova 850 G2 $119.99: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G2-0850-XR/dp/B00IKDETOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527118566&sr=8-1&keywords=evga+850+g2
  
• Video card / GPU (Graphics Processing Unit) Nvidia GTX 1080 Ti ~$700. Whatever model is in stock (ASUS, Gigabyte, EVGA, MSI are all good). Try to get one with 3 DisplayPort outputs + 1 HDMI output (instead of 2 DisplayPort outputs + 2 HDMI outputs): https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&IsNodeId=1&N=100007709%20601294835%20601295933
  
• Memory Kingston HyperX FURY Black 8GB Kit (2x4GB) 2133MHz DDR4 Non-ECC CL14 DIMM Desktop Memory (HX421C14FBK2/8): https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-HyperX-2133MHz-Non-ECC-HX421C14FBK2/dp/B00TY6A1P0/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1540805440&sr=1-4&keywords=8gb+ddr4
  
• SSD (Solid State Drive) Samsung 860 EVO 2.5" 500GB 129.99: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-500GB-Internal-MZ-76E500B-AM/dp/B0781Z7Y3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1527118286&sr=8-2&keywords=samsung+850+500gb
  
• Monitors 3x Asus VG278Q 144hz @ $289.00/each: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236821
  
• Speakers Logitech Z506 75 watts 5.1 $74.99: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16836121044
  
• Wireless Keyboard/Mouse Logitech K830 Wireless Illuminated $49.99: https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Illuminated-Living-Room-Keyboard-Touchpad/dp/B00ZOPVSKW/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527119030&sr=1-1&keywords=k830
  
• USB Wifi adapter ANEWKODI 600Mbps Dual Band (2.4G/150Mbps+5G/433Mbps) Wireless USB Wifi Adapter $16.99: https://www.amazon.com/ANEWKODI-600Mbps-150Mbps-433Mbps-Wireless/dp/B01G8IPLD8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527121846&sr=1-3&keywords=usb+wifi+adapter
  
  ​
  
  Sims (all below support triple monitors and VR headsets):
  
  
• iRacing ($50 for first year with promo code + any cars/tracks you license)
  
• Dirt Rally (can be found on sale for ~$15)
  
• Assetto Corsa Ultimate Edition (can be found on sale for ~$25)
  
• Project Cars 2 (can be found on sale for ~$25)
  
  ​
  
  Not listed:
  
  
• Windows 10 operating system (you may already have a license)
  
• Seat (I personally think that car seats are much more comfortable and appropriate for sim racing over "racing" seats)
  
• Anything I forgot?

Looks very nice. My only recommendations would be bump up to the Corsair 300r case. It isn't too much more, and I believe it is a substantial increase in overall quality vs. the 200r. I have never used the 200r, but I have used the 300r and had very good luck with it.

people on the sub really like the fractal design meshify c which is less than $100, and I'm pretty partial to phanteks cases, such as the eclipse p400s or pro m. NZXT's also got a new compact ATX case that goes for $100, i think it's the H500i? But all of these cases have differing aesthetics so it is really down to how much you like the look of the case since you'll be looking at it, yknow, a lot. cooler master H500p is a beautiful case so go for it.

Alright so I decided to just go with a large enough PSU for one video card, went a little higher than you needed for a 6950 but it can't hurt. :) There is a little extra money to spend on other things, if you want to get a CPU cooler for overclocking, or change parts around. I went with a cheap keyboard since you didn't specify if you wanted something better, but again you can use the money for that. Also the case is somewhat generic, so you could put the money towards something that looks more badass, I'd look into the NZXT Phantom (linked).

Before you seriously consider purchasing this I would create a [Build Ready] thread just in case I made any errors in the build. :) Let me know if you have any questions.

Part list permalink / Part price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i5-2500K 3.3GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.99 @ Microcenter
Motherboard | ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard | $137.86 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory | $46.99 @ Newegg
Hard Drive | Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $82.99 @ SuperBiiz
Hard Drive | Crucial M4 64GB 2.5" Solid State Disk | $90.74 @ B&H
Video Card | HIS Radeon HD 6950 2GB Video Card | $271.78 @ Amazon
Case | Cooler Master HAF 912 ATX Mid Tower Case | $47.99 @ Microcenter
Power Supply | Antec 550W ATX12V Power Supply | $54.99 @ Amazon
Optical Drive | LG GH22NS90B DVD/CD Writer | $15.99 @ Newegg
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (64-bit) | $99.99 @ Newegg
Keyboard | Rosewill RK-800G Wired Gaming Keyboard | $9.99 @ Newegg
Mouse | Logitech G500 Wired Laser Mouse | $58.99 @ Newegg
| | Total
| Prices include shipping and discounts when available. | $1098.29
| Generated 2012-03-13 21:18 EDT-0400 |

Thanks again!

One last thing. I super love [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M2UKGSM?ascsubtag=hawk-1837867186-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B00M2UKGSM&linkCode=df0&pc_redir=T1&tag=hawk-future-20#immersive-view_1468009402987) case. Would this be something I could eventually load with "good" parts?

Everyone suggests a little drawer

Pretty nifty, couple of my friends put Hue controllers fort heir RGB setups. Otherwise the Drawer is probably the best bet.

Thanks. Haha. It's a Thermaltake P5. It's a pretty cool case. It's like having a test bench for your main PC. I actually have my monitor mounted to it. Here's a photo. It's a great case, but I wish I knew they were going to release a Thermaltake P3. It's the same thing, but smaller.

If looks matter that much to you but you still care about good airflow and performance may I recommend the Lian li dynamic in white over the nzxt case

NZXT 340 doesn't have any optical drives. So if you want a dvd drive the NZXT will not work.

Between the two, I like the corsair better.

My personal pick >100 -
Corsair 300R windowed is a traditional black box.
I've always liked the look of the NZXT Phamton 410
Antec P100 is a quiet simple case

Motherboard should fit if you're going from ATX -> ATX.

I wouldn't bother getting a new motherboard unless you have a "K" model CPU and want to overclock.

Right now I have I only have a CD/DVD drive in my drive bay which is pretty useless sooooo I've been thinking about rearranging my case innards to take advantage of my drive bays more and improve case airflow!

I have a Fractal Design Define R4 and I'm currently using the bottom storage drive rack inside the case. However, this is removable which would allow my front fans push more intake air. I'll have to remount my SSD and HDD first though. I can mount my SSD to a special side mount behind the motherboard. For the HDD I'm going to get a 3.5" to 5.25" drive bay adapter mount and remove my CD/DVD drive. In my second drive bay I'm going to put a simple drawer to help me organize my desk up a bit :P.

$85.94 Phanteks Enthoo Evolv Mini ITX - Best case? Best case.

$85.00 BitFenix Mini ITX

$54.99 Thermaltake Core V1 - This one can be configured different ways with window on top or side.

$44.99 SilverStone SG13WB Mini ITX

/u/Jonathinater i realise that pci-e is better , but i would prefer to use the m.2 as the case im planning to use is the thermaltake core p5and as you can see everything, i would far prefer it if i didnt go the pci-e route.
Update: whilst waiting for a response i came across this wifi antenna set im pretty sure that it would be compatible with my motherboard , but i would still need a m.2 wif/bluetooth card (the bluetooth part is actually more important to me).

On amazon: works with both mac OS (plug and play) and windows.

​

Card: Needs to be a vega 56 or 64. 56 OC is enough honestly.

MSI Video Card Radeon RX Vega 56 Air Boost 8G OC


Razer Core X: Thunderbolt: (also, pick up a 6 foot thunderbolt cable) 6 foot is the max for best performance.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CQG2K5K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have 525 being the boot drive with all of my games and programs and then keep like my personal files on the 1tb drive. You could spend more and get 1080 or buy a different case like https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Crystal-570X-RGB-CC-9011098-WW/dp/B01LE0ZKR2.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 1500X 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor | $179.89 @ OutletPC
Motherboard | MSI - X370 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX AM4 Motherboard | $151.88 @ OutletPC
Memory | G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $142.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 525GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $154.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $46.88 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING Video Card | $269.98 @ Newegg
Case | Phanteks - Enthoo Pro M Tempered Glass ATX Mid Tower Case | $79.99 @ Newegg
Power Supply | Corsair - RMx 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $59.99 @ Newegg
Optical Drive | Asus - DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer | $18.69 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $1255.06
| Mail-in rebates | -$60.00
| Total | $1195.06
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-08-30 09:23 EDT-0400 |

I went in about middle I took my build I did in March and edited it some id recommend a mouse / keyboard like this one (https://www.theverge.com/circuitbreaker/2017/8/30/16224804/logitech-g603-g613-g840-mouse-keyboard-pad-wireless-ifa-2017) isn't out yet. Maybe some one can give better idea of wireless keyboard and mouse as mine that I use are wired.

My case fan started making noise yesterday. I thought maybe a wire was hitting it or something. I opened my side panel and I couldn't see anything obstructing it. I stuck my finger in the fan to see if it was in fact the fan I thought was making the noise, the fan and noise stopped. Once I removed my finger, the fan started moving again and noise was gone. I was on my computer all day yesterday and the noise didn't return.

This morning, when I woke my computer from sleep mode, the fan resumed making the noise.

This is the case I use and the fan in question is the top one.
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-Black-Tower-Computer/dp/B0055Q7BR4


Any ideas?

You'll need a USB ATSC TV tuner that is supported under Linux ARM and run something like tvheadend. It'll mean a lot of messing about with selecting the right tuner and then getting the right driver compiled for the kernel. TV tuners under Linux is fairly complicated still as the kernel provided drivers tend to be old.

How much do you really want to tinker though? I'd suggest just buying a dual tuner HDHomeRun box instead for $94. USB ATSC tuners looks to be ~$35 by themselves. The cheap TV tuners that say RTLSDR or DVB aren't compatible. The HDHomeRun boxes work very well and it is all ready to go for a reasonable price if you're looking for dual tuner capability.

Kodi supports streaming TV from a tvheadend server or HDHomeRun. I'm unsure how you'd get it to work on a Roku box though. AFAIK it doesn't support streaming the necessary TV broadcast codecs directly so you'd need a server somewhere transcoding. The HDHomeRun does support DLNA so you should be able to get it to stream to your Xbox directly.

Here's a kit I bought off Amazon. It was only $18 with Prime so I thought it was a deal. Looks great in my build and the leds are pretty bright. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AZ4XX0E/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This will play any games hands down 4k 120FPS High. The only other thing you could add is a 2nd graphics card.


CPU: Ryzen 9 3900X

• Price (USD): $499
  
  
• Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SXMZLP9/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=201bb8ca47d86d91a12034e8fae8ad87&language=en_US
  
  
  GPU 1: ASUS ROG Strix GeForce RTX 2080 Ti
  
  
• Price (USD): $1299
  
  
• Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-GeForce-Overclocked-Graphics-ROG-STRIX-RTX-2080-O11G/dp/B07HY6QWXN/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=2080+ti&qid=1562612885&s=gateway&sr=8-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=75ec84d62e8d72eef99ede8331e4e862&language=en_US
  
  
  Motherboard: Asus Prime X570-Pro
  
  
• Price (USD): $235
  
  
• Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-Prime-X570-Pro-Ryzen-Motherboard/dp/B07SW925DQ/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=%22x570%22&qid=1562636196&s=gateway&sr=8-6&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=da6afc3ed17feedf80035db1274148c7&language=en_US
  
  
  RAM: (2x16GB) G.Skill Ripjaws V 3200
  
  
• Price (USD): $129
  
  
• Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/G-SKILL-Ripjaws-PC4-25600-Platform-F4-3200C16D-32GVK/dp/B0171GQR0C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1545863022&sr=8-4&keywords=ripjaws+v++3200&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=b61eb93afaa490f220097f16db540720&language=en_US
  
  
  Storage: Samsung 970 Evo Plus 2TB
  
  
• Price (USD): $444
  
  
• Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-970-EVO-Plus-MZ-V7S500B/dp/B07MFZXR1B/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=J4QGAQFKYBRJJ82A3D0B&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=c77eb8e85f6edbaf551cef298dc4c2d0&language=en_US
  
  
  Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA 1000 G+
  
  
• Price (USD): $166
  
  
• Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-GP-0750-X1/dp/B0797D5WHH/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=PEP7Z3C5HF19WFYSN0HK&th=1&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=405642eecfd11aa468e20660f7ef6a15&language=en_US
  
  
  Case: Corsair Crystal 570X RGB
  
  
• Price (USD): $184
  
  
• Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Crystal-Mid-Tower-Tempered-Glass/dp/B01LE0ZKR2/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1545864117&sr=1-2&keywords=570x&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=b0e577b9d678738de2e5b96c512eaded&language=en_US
  
  
  CPU Cooler: Corsair H100i PLATINUM RGB
  
  
• Price (USD): $124
  
  
• Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-H100i-PLATINUM-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B07JWB5BSN/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YBFR43AYSKT5YZAXXJ9D&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=aa0dc77772148209da5b35fdb6f38cdd&language=en_US
  
  
  Monitor: Empty Monitor
  
  
• Price (USD): $0
  
  
• Amazon Link: null
  
  
  Generated by BuildCores on 2019-11-07

Hey guys,

I was looking for some tips on water cooling.

The case I want to water cool is Cosair Crystal Series 570X RGB

I was wondering if anyone could tell me a good water cooling kit I can use for that case. I prefer hard tubes.

I mainly want to water cool my CPU (i7-3770k) because I heard you can lose your warranty on your ASUS 1080 ti STRIX.

If anyone needs additional information, please let me know. :)

Thank you.

I like your build! You getting red, blue, or white led? I just got the white. With your build the gsync predator version xb271 would be awesome. Also I'm not a giant fan of that case, I think this pro m with glass window is great for the price. Phanteks Enthoo Pro M PH-ES515PTG_BK, Tempered Glass Window, Brushed Black Steel/Plastic Mid Tower ATX Chassis

I considered an open case design like this, but it's gonna be hard to do liquid cooling without a custom loop. Also, I was concerned about portability. I'm gonna need to move a few times in the next 5 years, and that thing seems like a nightmare to move.


Now I'm leaning towards a smaller cube design with plenty of room for cable management. This corsair case looks great. It's also compatible with this liquid cooling system, so that's what I'm leaning towards now.


I'm gonna wait until the 1080 drops at the end of the month before I buy a GPU.

A few things to consider:

1. If you get one 8 GB stick of RAM instead of 2 x 4GB you won't have to sell/discard your RAM if you decide to upgrade (using the current Motherboard you could eventually upgrade the processor/GPU/RAM to about twice the current specs just fyi).
   
   
2. Just fyi your bottleneck right now is your video card. You could bump it up to a GTX 970 or R9 390 and it would better match your processor's capability.
   
   
3. Not sure if you are trying to minimize costs, but if you want a really solid ITX case (full disclosure it's on the larger side as ITX cases go) for half the price, I own this and it's great: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M2UKGSM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

1. You could consider an air cooler like the NH-D14 or NH-D15 which has the same or better cooling capabilities as the h100i, but is cheaper and much quieter.
   
   
2. That case is nice, but a tad expensive. You could look at the Fractal Design Define R5 or the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M
   
   
3. You should spend an extra 10$ and get the EVGA 650W G2 Gold Certified Fully Modular PSU. Your build doesn't need more watts than 650. Also with fully modular PSU, it will help a lot during cable management.
   
   
4. The MSI GTX 1080 Gaming X is cheaper and runs cooler.

​

|PART TYPE|PART - ID|AMAZON CANADA PRICING (7/4/2019)|
|:-|:-|:-|
|Case|Thermaltake Core V1 Black Edition SPCC Mini ITX Cube Computer Chassis CA-1B8-00S1WN-00|$60|
|Psu|REUSED: EVGA 850 B2|$100|
|Cpu|AMD YD2600BBAFBOX Processeur RYZEN5 2600 Socket AM4 3.9Ghz Max Boost, 3,4Ghz Base+19MB|$225|
|Gpu|ZOTAC GeForce GTX 1060 Mini, ZT-P10600A-10L, 6GB GDDR5 Super Compact|$300|
|Mobo|ASRock Mini-ITX Motherboard (B450 Gaming-ITX/AC)|$165|
|Ram|G.SKILL F4-3000C16D-16GTZR Trident Z RGB Series 16GB, 288-Pin SDRAM DDR4-3000Mhz (PC4 24000) Desktop Memory|$110|
|SSD|ADATA SU800 512GB 3D-NAND 2.5 Inch SATA III High Speed Read & Write up to 560MB/s & 520MB/s Solid State Drive|$75|
|Fan|Noctua NF-R8 redux-1800, 3-Pin, High Performance Cooling Fan with 1800RPM (80mm, Grey)|$15|

>which case to use. I was looking at some Mini-ATX cases, and this Corsair case seems to be very highly regarded

That case is decent, yeah, but it's about 3x the size of some cases. If you can spend a lot, i'd recommedn the NFC S4 Mini, though with this pretty much the best GPU you can possibly get in there is the R9 Nano, and it requires a funky power supply setup, a DC-DC power supply with an external powerbrick.

If that's not an option, take a look at the Silverstone SG13B, it's really small but can take practically any standard hardware, within mITX limits, and it's a third of the price.

The Fractal Node 202 could be an option too, but you'd require a SFX power supply.

>which MB to go with since I assume mine is too big

Any regular mITX board should be fine. This would be a good option for example: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813128720

>whether I'll need a smaller power supply

Depends on the case

>whether I should upgrade my CPU/RAM lest I bottleneck the 1080

No need.

I've been loving NZXT's cases for awhile now. They're kind of expensive but they come with really good fans and are nice to work with. Here's an example.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I44EUAK/?tag=pcpapi-20

Check them out on PC Part Picker
http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/case/#m=94

If you need a small package, your best bet for your money is a Mini-ITX machine. A case like the Silverstone SG13 is well priced, tiny and supports a full size power supply and (most) graphics cards.

I have around 1 1/4". Metric illiterate which is making this more difficult punching every number into a converter. But that's with the cap off from the top of the threads.

Thermaltake View 71 TG RGB Plus 4-Sided Tempered Glass Vertical GPU Modular E-ATX Full Tower Computer Case with 4 120mm Riing Plus RGB Fans Pre-Installed CA-1I7-00F1WN-02 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MGFS9NW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WjSOCbFWSRF03

Thermaltake Tower 900 Tempered Glass Fully Modular E-ATX Vertical Super Tower Gaming Computer Case Chassis Edition, Black, CA-1H1-00F1WN-00 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N1GP2GZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ReSOCbQCF1HXF

Lian Li PC-O11DW 011 Dynamic Tempered Glass on The Front Chassis Body SECC ATX Mid Tower Gaming Computer Case White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F9TC5W7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ukSOCbJDE498B

Cooler Master Cosmos C700P E-ATX Full-Tower with RGB Lighting, Dual-Curved Tempered Glass Side Panel, Aluminum Handles, Removable M/B Tray, Inversed Layout Option, 420mm Radiator Support https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075NSBT5D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3kSOCb9MDXSDG

I'm not familiar with water cooling components but just as an FYI Thermaltake makes a wall mounted case that I don't think many people know about. It's meant meant for water cooling setups and is a great option if you are wary about building a custom mount for your wall.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015U7LXO4/ref=aw_wl_ov_dp_1_4?colid=194H13ZCMHLG8&coliid=I348Q7KO38DKJ9&vs=1

I found that going ~$30 above your limit drastically increases case quality and the looks of the case.
Heres what I found:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LIDU5S/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419712172&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX200_QL40

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00MHWVWHE?psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00COGDERY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419712305&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40
(This one has the best ratings and the best company)

The case I'm looking at for a NAS I will soon be building advertises 6, but I think I can get 10 into it. It's the Fractal Design Node 304 Mini-ITX Case. Probably not the smallest, it an interesting case that meets my requirements.

What are you intending to do with this build? You can probably sacrifice the room for a graphics card and other bits if you are going for as small as you can get. Or if all you really care about is putting your drives into something, you could go [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Backplane-Removable-3-5-Inches-RC3400101A/dp/B004G8QES4/ref=sr_1_12?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1376851991&sr=1-12&keywords=4+bay+hard+drive+enclosure) direction.

By liquid cooling do you mean custom loop liquid cooling or All in one liquid coolers like the NZXT Kraken X62?

Also what are your needs for the case? Do you need optical drives for things like a Blu-ray player? Does it need to be small and compact like an ITX case or do you want a full size case where you put more stuff in it? Do you want it to have a transparent side panel where you can see all your stuff or you don't care? RGB? Also what's your budget like?

Here some examples of cases that I like alot personally but they might not fit your needs.

[NZXT S340 Elite ](NZXT S340VR Elite Computer Case , Matte Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZQMXJT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qmJFzb5RWHCSY)

[Phanteks Enthoo Evolve ATX TG](Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX Computer Case - Tempered Glass Edition, Satin Black PH-ES515ETG_BK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F0KWL6A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t7IFzbZ12RAYA)

[Fractal Design R5](Fractal Design Define R5 Gaming Case with Window Cases FDCADEFR5BKW https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q2Z143Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KbJFzb48BGDAH)

[Corsair 400C ](Corsair Carbide Clear 400C Compact Mid-Tower Case https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017XPP9KK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_heJFzbRWY5MMS)

[Corsair 570x ](Corsair Crystal Series 570X RGB - Tempered Glass, Premium ATX Mid-Tower Case Cases CC-9011098-WW https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LE0ZKR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rgJFzbX4SJG4V)

[Be Quiet Dark Base 900](be quiet! BGW11 DARK BASE PRO 900 ATX Full Tower Computer Chassis - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H6JO9L8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WhJFzbAHES9X5)

Right, those seem to be like the old cases from quite a while back when you would put the monitor over the case. They are like horizontal computer cases.

​

Here are a few I could find after a quick search, doesn't seem to be nearly as many cool ones as a vertical case.

​

Cooler Master MasterBox

Thermaltake Core P5

Silvertone Grandia

Cooler Master LAN Box

Antec Blazer GT - Doesn't seem like this is out yet

​

Edit: Though I am thinking you could buy any nice looking tower and put it on its side. Just put some rubber feet on the side of the case and set it down.

Thanks! They're actually a cheap set I got on Amazon. They're nice and bright. Here's a link: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AZ4XX0E?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Even something like this does wonders IMO:

https://www.amazon.com/Syba-Steel-Adjustable-Caster-Wheels/dp/B0096KK76W/ref=pd_sim_147_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HG6MTVBYH08Y9BC4NNRZ

Main thing is to get it off the carpet and treat it like a nice piece of equipment.

Could also hang it:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Panoramic-Certified-Computer-CA-1E7-00M1WN-00/dp/B015U7LXO4

If you need to put in a DVD player, I recommend this one. It’s the one I use and I am pretty happy with it

Phanteks Enthoo Pro M PH-ES515PTG_BK, Tempered Glass Window, Brushed Black Steel/Plastic Mid Tower ATX Chassis https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LRVHH6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7Ha5Ab7JWT65Z

Sorry, didn't realize it was airgoo

I got it setup in my case atm but decided to get use a different controller so I could use a more robust remote with more customization. Very impressed with the results.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01AZ4XX0E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

what kind of antenna are you using?

i use this one
1byone
i velcroed it to the back of my entertainment center. i get great signals on some of the networks, but some are spotty. when that happens, i pull it out and move it around to higher areas until i fix the signal. i rarely can't get a channel when i try.

i know people who swear by this pricier box, but i've never used it.
SiliconDust HDHomeRun

and if you're not up for doing the antenna thing and cable's too expensive, there's tons of streaming options out there that get basic cable and local channels. pretty sure they can be as low as 20/month.

youtube tv, sling, playstation vue, directvnow, the list seems to be getting bigger everyday.

I wouldn't necessarily recommend these, but you can consider them.

You can get 3.5" to 5.25" brackets to mount your hard drives and remove your drive cage. You can get a USB hub that connects straight to your motherboard for more ports. Fan controllers. You can get an SD card reader. You can get a drawer like this one to store things like screws or USB sticks.

Those are just the main specs, of course I'm going to buy a case, a power supply and all that pc goodyness. I don't really know how I feel about 12, it just seems so odd, but idk 8 should be fine. I'm not 100% sure what case I'm getting, but here's a few that I really like: case#1 [case#2] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004O0PAKW/ref=noref?ie=UTF8&psc=1&s=electronics) [case#3] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Antec-P280-Performance-Expansions-Standard/dp/B005X3E5BO/ref=sr_1_96?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1381600299&sr=1-96&keywords=mid+tower+case) These are just the ones I could find, maybe there are some other really good looking ones out there.

It looks it does extend to the Kaze version as well. I've been considering this case for a while. My main concern is with the PSU.

I've been told that PSUs over 140mm cause interference to the GPU. I see that someone else had an EVGA 450w and the pictures showed it fitting a GPU in, but the dimensions of the power supply are 85mm x 150mm x 140mm. I don't want to have to pay extra for a sfx psu if I don't have to.

I don't plan on using a DVD drive. would the Corsair CX550m work with a fullsize GPU?

Between this, the kaze version, the SG13B, and The CM Elite 130, which would be the best choice for an ITX case?

https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO/

I only have one more laptop for work, but had the same problem otherwise. I have been looking around, but could not find a KVM or streaming solution that could cope with the 3440x1440 resolution and refresh rate (they all top out at 4k 30Hz) and wouldn't stress my poor Lenovo work laptop (copious amounts of corporate bloatware) to the point that everything was just slow and unstable. Instead, I now have my Desktop plugged into the Display Port and my Laptop into HDMI, each with their dedicated USB 3 cable to the Hub.

That means I need to connect/disconnect only 2 cables when and if I move the laptop, and otherwise it's only two buttons to switch both display and USB inputs for up to 4 USB devices (mainly my mouse and keyboard). This was the best compromise for me that doesn't sacrifice on input lag or display quality.

Pretty much any eGPU enclosure can run a GTX750.

The Razer Core X is the best bang-for-the-buck enclosure on the market, since it provides plenty of room and power for pretty much any video card upgrade, and provides 100W of charging power, which is the maximum allowed by the TB3 power-delivery spec.

You can get cheaper enclosures if you're not looking for a device that can charge your system (such as the Sonnet 350 for 200$), but the Razer Core X is the complete package with regards to upgrade ability and charging power.

Looks good now, this should last you at least 2-3 years of gaming at 1080p. Since you are 500 below budget, you could spring for a nicer case like this or this

The Silverstone SG13 is an excellent choice for a super compact mini ITX case. It's even a bit smaller than the NCase M1 and can fit a full size GPU and power supply.

It's doesn't have the same build quality or feature set as the M1, but at $40 is an unbeatable value:

http://www.amazon.com/Silverstone-Mini-DTX-Mini-ITX-Computer-SG13B/dp/B00U8IS89E/

Very cool looks like this is the direct link for anyone interested.


http://arcadeskin.com/gallery.php?mode=gallery&id=63&page=1


Also did you use this case?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F1PSFY6/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Looks like a pretty solid build! The full tower case may be abit overkill but otherwise, it looks good! I'd segest getting a 200R or a 400R

ECC RAM 16GB: http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-DDR3L-1600MT-PC3-12800-CT2KIT102472BD160B-CT2CP102472BD160B/dp/B008EMA5VU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1452264155&sr=8-2&keywords=ecc+ram

SSD 128GB for the FreeNAS will be valuable if you are going to have lots of traffic in your home server. Then the SSD will act as cache, increasing the speed of the transfer.

Mobo: http://www.amazon.com/Asrockrack-Motherboard-Mini-DDR3-E3C224D2I/dp/B00G9U6FIQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1452264276&sr=8-3&keywords=asrock+rack
I have this mobo. It works well. But I'm facing some issues with the IPMI (simply is dead), so I cannot remote power on the server. Now it is 100% powered on all the time. not an (big) issue.

Case (came with all fans needed): http://www.amazon.com/Fractal-Design-Mini-ITX-Computer-FD-CA-NODE-304-BL/dp/B009LHF4FO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452264378&sr=8-1&keywords=fractal+design+node+304

This is my server setup. Bought the itens in USA when I was on vacation there.

For the HDDs a little tip: Buy all same sizes (does not matter the brand).
Security tip for paranoic: buy same hdds sizes, different brands, and different batchs.

If you use the HDD same size, you can setup the storage in RAIDZ. Get full features that ZFS can bring.

Suggest the video of a webinar shown yesterday: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJa94v_PKWA

Thanks for all the insight. Will definitely try a different PSU.

I've been back and forth on the cases. I was also looking at the Corsair Carbide 400R Mid Tower. Would the Gigabyte fit in there?

I've got a Core V1 ITX Case, New in Open Box, Shipped for $45 and I'll throw in a FREE Silverstone PWM Splitter as well as a slim 80mm fan:
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Black-Computer-Chassis-CA-1B8-00S1WN-00/dp/B00M2UKGSM

Sounds like you're looking for an S340 Elite case. It's $100 and has a tempered glass side panel. I haven't personally used it (I use a Corsair 400C), but I hear the cable management in it is superb.

https://www.amazon.com/S340VR-Elite-Computer-Matte-CA-S340W-B3/dp/B01LZQMXJT/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1494301620&sr=1-1&keywords=s340+elite

Thanks! I love the case
NZXT H440 Mid Tower Case (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I44EUAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IuXtzbKWPSYPA

Oh yeah, I was just getting it closer to your build cost. The 200r is a great case. If wanted to spend a little more the 300r is only £6 more than the 200r on Amazon.

This looks awesome. Thanks!

https://smile.amazon.com/S340VR-Elite-Computer-Matte-CA-S340W-W2/dp/B01LZQMXJT/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1518540726&sr=1-2&keywords=nzxt%2Bs340%2Belite&dpID=41tzvp6nsQL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1

Well i was going to recommended this considering you`re cpu cooler.

https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Crystal-Mid-Tower-Tempered-Glass/dp/B01LE0ZKR2/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1543384622&sr=1-3&keywords=corsair+case

but then i read this. but im stopping myself spending £180-200 on a case.

​

So now i say tis

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CC-9011101-WWCORSAIR-Crystal-Mid-Tower-Tempered/dp/B01LA2LB7W/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1543384622&sr=1-4&keywords=corsair+case

​

I like to match fans and cases and these are rgb and for a few extra moneys if its in your budget you can get a rgb version of the cpu cooler. it does not come with a back fan but it is not needed.

My entire system build:
[Graphics Card] (dis link is broken)
CPU
Hard Drive
RAM
Motherboard
Case
Power Supply
 
Thanks, man. I hadn't even considered getting a 1070, but it makes sense. It seems to be a lower price than the 980ti currently. I had hoped to find something as powerful as a 908ti for about £350, but it doesn't seem to be possible.

Thermaltake Core V1 Snow Edition SPCC Mini ITX Cube Computer Chassis CA-1B8-00S6WN-01 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015UDUAKG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wG3Fzb5F03XJB

Phanteks PH-ES215P_SRD Enthoo Evolv Mini iTX Tower Case, Window Case, Red https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014K3BFVU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XG3FzbPVT4801

BitFenix Micro ATX, Mini-ITX Motherboard Cases BFC-PRM-300-WWWKW-RP White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T2WIRUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AH3FzbZYJFSB5

Np. Some of my favorite and popular itx cases.

Hi! How can I connect two additional case fans on this Mobo?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MY5KXW8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I only saw in the instruction booklet how to connect for the large fan on the case. I would like to create a push/pull with the two small fans I have. This is the case:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015UDUAKG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the two fans:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QVFN7G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You’ll probably be able to run it, but the settings will have to be a bit scuffed.

One thing you may want to look in to as an upgrade path once funds become available is some sort of external GPU enclosure and an external GPU- your two biggest bottlenecks are probably going to be your integrated graphics and the actual heat of the CPU.

You may also want to look in to cooling mechanisms now- I would keep an eye out for a lot of thermal throttling on your CPU.

Realistically, download the starter edition of retail WoW and give it a test drive. Performance will probably be similar.

• Mic - Marantz 2000u ( https://www.amazon.com/Marantz-Professional-MPM-2000U-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B01GJ9IUNY )
  
• Mic Arm - Rode PSA 1 ( https://www.amazon.com/RODE-Swivel-Mount-Studio-Microphone/dp/B001D7UYBO/ref=asc_df_B001D7UYBO/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312154365034&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4130145095976013704&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015834&hvtargid=pla-316724732614&psc=1 )
  
• Desk Top - IKEA KarLby Walnut 74' ( https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/50335208/?gclid=CjwKCAjw5pPnBRBJEiwAULZKvi0kAjMtpYnslZnuajzeU9RKhO43XYklzUJrtRLWXw6V7ngvhW7gOBoCnecQAvD_BwE )
  
• Legs - Jarvis Frame ( https://www.fully.com/standing-desks/jarvis/jarvis-frame-only.html )
  
• Monitors - Dell P2715Q (https://www.amazon.com/Dell-Monitor-P2715Q-27-Inch-LED-Lit/dp/B00PC9HFO8 )
  
• Keyboard - Logitech K780 ( https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Multi-Device-Wireless-Keyboard-Computer/dp/B01LZAK8MM/ref=asc_df_B01LZAK8MM/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309707619534&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14633367188713847059&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015834&hvtargid=pla-403917938067&psc=1 )
  
• Mouse - Logitech Master 2s ( https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Wireless-Cross-Computer-Control-Graphite/dp/B071YZJ1G1/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=logitech+mx+master&qid=1558544632&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1 )
  
• Computer - MacMini 2018 ( https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/1442188-REG/apple_z0w1_mrtr37_10g_mac_mini_i7_64gb_512gb_ssd_10g.html )
  
• eGPU - Razer Core X ( https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Core-Thunderbolt-External-Enclosure/dp/B07CQG2K5K )
  
• Graphics Card - Vega 64 ( https://www.amazon.com/XFX-Radeon-Vega-Graphics-RX-VEGMTBFX6/dp/B074DK6NHQ/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=Vega+64&qid=1558544801&s=gateway&sr=8-8 )
  
  
  *Note: None of these links are affiliates. I just googled what I had and got the best link. I tried to post the links I used when buying. It's just been so long.

I am comparing 2 popular Mini ITX cube cases. Anyone who has used these cases before, could you please share any insights:

Thermaltake V1 Snow

SilverStone Technology Ultra Compact Mini-ITX Computer Case with Solid Faux Aluminum Front Panel in White and Black SG13WB-Q

Now that the official poe hat has been released... Has anyone found a good case for the RPI 3+ that works with the new official poe hat? The one mentioned below appears to not fit unfortunately with the poe hat. I have the official case and am thinking about modifying it somehow with proper ventilation. I'm surprised rpi foundation hasn't released an updated official case with a vent on the top for the fan yet.

​

I do the same thing but with a gigabyte aorus gaming box Rx580.

I use an X1 Carbon 6th gen with a double monitor setup. I can recommend this. The 7th gen is lighter, stronger, and faster. It has two thunderbolt three port that unfortunately share bandwidth. I use a samsung t5 2tb ssd for all my games and I get no stutters. Overall my setup costs me about 1500. I got a good deal on the X1 since I got it from costco and it was on sale for 1100.

Today, with the x1 carbon 7th gen, it would be: (i7-8565u quad Core, 16 gb 2133 ram, 256 gb ssd): USD 1500
https://www.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/thinkpad/thinkpad-x/X1-Carbon-Gen-7/p/20QDCTO1WWENUS0/customize?
The samsung ssd is : USD 280
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073H4GPLQ/ref=twister_B074T4VYCV?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
The razor core x is: 400
https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Core-Thunderbolt-External-Enclosure/dp/B07CQG2K5K/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Razor+core+x&qid=1566830545&s=electronics&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzVVY3RzU3U0hNVzdCJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDU0OTEzMUVRUFNGS0RNUUVUVSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzg3MTMxRlJYSEs3VzFCMk9MJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

Total is 2180 USD or about 1960 Euro

I sold my RX580 Gaming box and bought a 2060 Gaming box.

in case you haven't already pulled the trigger this looks like a good config for you:

mini-itx

2.0Ghz, Latest Goldmont AES-NI

VT-X&D

ebay i340-t4

PCIe v2.0 x2 mode = 8.0Gbits/s bidirectional for 4x gigbit NICs

8GB DDR3L 1866 SODIMM

2xSATA

No moving parts at all if you go pico-psu

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813157726

http://www.ebay.com/itm/IBM-Intel-I340-T4-Ethernet-Quad-Port-Adapter-94Y5167-49Y4241-/172489524601?hash=item28292d4579:g:1XgAAOSwt5hYfV9W

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233581&cm_re=ddr3l-_-20-233-581-_-Product

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PicoPSU-80-12V-DC-DC-ATX-Power-Supply-w-60W-AC-Adapter-/191942916682?hash=item2cb0b07a4a:g:hqsAAOSw0UdXrdzB

or

https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA24G3RH5343

https://smile.amazon.com/Silverstone-Computer-Front-Panel-SG13B/dp/B00U8IS89E/ref=sr_1_13?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486056019&sr=1-13&keywords=mini+itx

https://smile.amazon.com/Transcend-Half-Slim-Solid-State-TS16GHSD370/dp/B00OPHX8XK/ref=sr_1_11?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486056413&sr=1-11&refinements=p_n_feature_three_browse-bin%3A14027456011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A4929543011

or with 2.4 coming out your could mirror a pair of USB's in ZFS

https://smile.amazon.com/SanDisk-SDCZ33-016G-B35-2PK-Everything-Stromboli-Lanyard/dp/B00DTZA5S0/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1486056220&sr=8-8&keywords=sandisk+cruzer+fit

Whole system, assuming you don't have any parts laying around you can reuse: $222 - $252 depending on whether you want pico-PSU v PSU and USBx2 v SSD.

If you have stuff lying around that you can repurpose then you can save some $ and get a great system. Generally if you sacrifice on the ultra-small form factors that require boards with embedded NICs you will get a lot more performance for a lot less money by using a server pull enterprise grade PCIe NIC.

Surprised they also didn't mention the Phanteks Enthoo Pro M TG as an alternative to the Enthoo Evolv TG. It doesn't have glass on both sides (a pro as far as I'm concerned), no RGB and it has a slightly different design that likely contributes to better airflow in the Pro (I own the Pro M but think the Evolv looks slightly better). It's also about $100 cheaper, roughly half the price.

I realize they can't realistically add every case, but this seems like a perfect addition since their con for the Evolv is price.

Looking for a case to fit my r9 290 and was thinking of this guy: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006I2H04I/?tag=pcpapi-20. A NZXT Phantom 410. Only issue is that it supports 230mm without drive bay removal, while the card is a little bigger than that (294mm).

Is that a huge issue? Or is removal of drive bays really not a big deal if you're going to skip optical anyway?

Why not just buy from amazon and get free shipping for the same price? Ten bucks cheaper. It is a refurb, but I think that's better than used.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B00I44EUAK/ref=dp_olp_refurbished?ie=UTF8&condition=refurbished

I had spec'd out a system for a similar purpose recently. The benefit of this config is 24 threads, 64GB ram, 10Gb Ethernet on mobo, 5GBps read/4GBps write to ssd, and 8GB vram.

4K/8K Editing Workstation PC - $2409.92

CASE: Lian Li 011 Dynamic - $119.99 - https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F9TC5W7
CPU: Ryzen 9 3900x - $499.99 - https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16819113103
MOBO: MSI X570 Creation - $499.99 - https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813144258
RAM: DDR4 64GB 3200 - $284.99 - https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16820232092
STORAGE: PCI-E 4.0 1TB SSD - $259.99 - https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16820009012
GPU: 5700 XT 8GB - $399.99 - https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16814150821
PSU: Seasonic 80+ Plat 850W - $144.99 - www.newegg.com/p/N82E16817151190
OS: Windows 10 - $199.99 -
http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/windows-10-pro/DF77X4D43RKT/0002

I'd say if you are going with an A-series processor, stick with the A8 or A10. They are quite weak to start with, so you might as well go with a quad core. You're probably talking about a difference of $30 or something. To me, it's not worth skimping that much on the main workhorse of your computer.

Do you have a microcenter near you? You can get an i3+motherboard for about the same price as this A10 combo. If you're not gaming you'll probably be better off with an i3 than an A10. (Though I'm not sure if microcenter has any mini-ITX)

$105 looks too expensive for that 128gb SSD. You can probably find something cheaper on sale. The 840 evo is coming out soon, I'd look at that.

As for cases, I think that's the hardest part of building these. So far the Wesena line looks the most interesting to me.

Maybe one of these?

Wesena ITX-1

Wesena ITX-2

There are a bunch of variants. Be sure to check for USB3 headers though, since a lot of these have only USB 2 I think.

This Silverstone SG05 seems quite popular and cheap

Fractal Node 304 - fractal has a good reputation, but I think this is a bit bigger than others

Also, I'm not sure if I should get the HDHomerun that I listed above or this one. One of the Android boxes will be connected to the network through wifi unless I buy ethernet powerline adapters like this, but I don't know if the outlet in that room is on the same breaker (I rent an apartment) and I've heard that these don't work very well if you plug them into outlets on different breakers. Anyway, my concern is that this cheaper one has better reviews, but says that it can only share SD content through wifi.

The PC and Laptop use HDMI (laptop) and Display Port (PC) and the input set to Auto (only have one on at a time).

As for the keyboard and mouse, I bought this on Amazon.


UGREEN USB 3.0 Switch, 2 in 4 Out... https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B01N6GD9JO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Works great, would recommend.

How about Corsair - Crystal 570X RGB

I'm looking for something very similar for my next build in a few months. I'd love to know what you end up going with and how you like it. The thing I don't like about this corsair case is I don't think you can turn the RGB lights off.... which is something I want to be able to do.

If you do any mini itx builds, I highly recommend the silverstone SG13 - it's cheap inexpensive (although I bought mine for about $20 less than the link), great build quality, and incredibly well laid out so that its very small footprint doesn't really feel all that small when building. Fits just about all full sized GPUs and PSUs. Only the CPU dumps heat into the case, and there's still somehow enough clearance for a stock cooler.

Currently, I have a massive tower PC. Its served me well for 3 years thus far and can easily go another 3 as it seems the rate of CPU/GPU improvement has slowed.

I don't know what my next computer will be, but I know it won't be a full-sized tower. I am considering a Mini-itx build, something like this

Oh I didn't know you were Australian.

I was going simply by what was on newegg. I don't know if newegg ships to Australia and if it does how much shipping will cost. Because sometimes shipping kills the deal.

What are some Australian computer stores? You really should check their websites right now since it is cyber Monday so you may find a deal on some components.

---

From Newegg...

• Intel Core i5-7600K for $199
  
• MSI H270I GAMING PRO Mini ITX Motherboards for $99.99
  
• 2 x G.SKILL NT Series 8GB 288-Pin DDR4 2133 for $76.99 x 2 = $153.98
  
• Cooler Master H115 Low-Profile CPU Cooler for $11.62
  
• ROSEWILL Micro ATX Mini Tower for $19.49
  
  From Amazon...
  
  
• BitFenix Micro ATX, Mini-ITX Motherboard Cases for $47
  
• Thermaltake Core V1 Snow Edition SPCC Mini ITX Cube for $47
  
  ---
  
  
• My reasoning for a bigger CPU is that down the line,it will be your bottleneck. If you were getting it as a free hand me down, that would be different but I would not recommend getting a slow CPU brand new at full price.
  
• My reasoning for a single bigger stick of ram is that down the line, when you want to upgrade, you'll curse yourself, because then you'll have to replace both sticks of ram. Instead of just adding 1 more stick.
  
• My reasoning for a motherboard with wifi built in, is that it should cost less, work flawlessly, take up less space, and allow you the freedom to add a video card if you so chose to at a later date.
  
• My reasoning for that cheap case is... most people put their computers in a corner and never look at it for more than a second.
  
• I added 2 more cases in white because, "hey, give the man a few options."
  
• I added a cheapo cpu heatsink/fan because I don't think the new ones come with them anymore.
  

I got this a couple weeks ago:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01AZ4XX0E/ref=sxts1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484531810&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

The control unit is pretty small and fits nice in the case. It also comes with two 50cm strips (adhesive). The directions and marketing are in really bad English but don't let it scare you, it's a good product.

You alright built the build at the top right? Or have you not purchased yet.

I'm assuming you already built.

There are way cooler RGB cases. I also wouldn't bother replacing the motherboard too much $$$ and hassle when you could just like, add some RGB light strips off of amazon for cheap.

Well, the h440 is one of the best looking cases on tge market. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&ei=tlxMU6WzE4ioyAG8hoDIDw&url=http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I44EUAK%3Fpc_redir%3D1397346899%26robot_redir%3D1&cd=9&ved=0CDwQFjAI&usg=AFQjCNFME7BZEHhJX7WV_NErMPbMxQVRvg

Something like this? It's only 13.9 inches tall. Kinda like a cereal box.

Rosewill FBM-01

Here's a cube if you want something more horizontal.

Thermaltake Core V21

We can go even smaller!

Thermaltake Core V1

so these are my pc parts:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MEFABEL/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3O8MGUOH6PWUV&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZZJ1P0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0165YUDTM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A2L77EE7U53NWQ&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0198QDKGW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?smid=A17MC6HOH9AVE6&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009SX6VLC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?smid=AZCEI3EMXUPTH&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LIDU5S/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088PUEPK/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?smid=AE7LQOSLC8Z85&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H33SDR4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_11?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

can you please tell me if there is room for improvement here because this is my first pc build (that includes if I need to upgrade the psu)

Don't know your budget but the Enthoo Pro M is a beauty.

OK - so since I use two computers here, I plug my KB, Mouse, microphone, and a USB 2.0 Hub into this USB Switcher: https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Selector-Computers-Peripheral-Switcher/dp/B01N6GD9JO/

I mounted that on the back of the monitor with some double-sided 3M thing.

I have my MacBook charger plugged into a power outlet, and that goes into a Satechi USB C Hub: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FWT7MEA/ref=psdc_281413_t3_B07B87BN1M

HDMI from my monitor goes into the USB C Hub for the Mac, and DisplayPort goes into the PC.

The USB Switcher's output goes into my PC and the Satechi USB C Hub for the Mac. I also use a 1.0 ft CableCreations extension cable to extend the USB-C hub's cable and make the connection stronger as the hub's cable is very loose.

With one button, I can switch computers.

Here's what my cable management looks like with the majority of cables being mounted on the back of the monitor.

https://imgur.com/a/6IvJ1TJ

[This is a pretty good reference point for one] (https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Liquid-Cooling-Computer-CA-1E7-00M1WN-00/dp/B015U7LXO4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466690986&sr=8-1&keywords=clear+computer+case)

I purchased it off Amazon for the same price - $129.99 on Amazon.

My front panel isn't white it's the stock brushed silver. It looks great as an accent color!

Separately, though the power supply was from CanaKit. I didn't measure the temperature when running N64 games though. It seemed to be doing okay.

To be specific, I got this case, and this motherboard, and this power supply, and this SD card.

The heatsinks are pretty cheap though. $5 for a set of 3.

Would this fit your needs?


https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Crystal-570X-RGB-CC-9011098-WW/dp/B01LE0ZKR2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1511768608&sr=8-4&keywords=Glass+PC+Case



Seems pretty sleek and stylish. There's some room for input airflow through the front of the case and room for an exhaust fan in the back. As long as you're not sticking it in an enclosed space I don't see why this wouldn't work for you.


Or if you want something a little cheaper and more compact, this would work as well.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LA2LB7W/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_8_w

Hi, I'm completely clueless on computers.

I have a Spectre x360 with 16GB of RAM and Vega M GL graphics: https://store.hp.com/us/en/pdp/hp-spectre-x360-15-ch012nr

I'm currently getting 90 FPS at 1080p on low settings on Overwatch, which I'm happy with. However, I was hoping to get an eGPU setup so that I can:

a) Hit 144 FPS at low settings on 1080p for Overwatch

b) Record/Stream Overwatch gameplay for self review (ideally 1080p at 60 FPS, but can accept 720p at 30 FPS)

My main priority is getting guaranteed/consistent performance, and my second priority is a little bit of future proofing (e.g. play single player games like Cyberpunk 2077, Red Dead Redemption, at 1080p 60 FPS on a Low/Medium). I'm looking to get advice on what eGPU and GPU to buy, and if it makes sense to wait for Black Friday/Cyber Monday to buy.

I'm currently looking at the Razer Core X for the eGPU and either the GTX 1070 or GTX 1080.

Razer Core X ($299) https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Core-Thunderbolt-External-Enclosure/dp/B07CQG2K5K/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1538542397&sr=1-2&keywords=razer+core+x

GTX 1070 ($379) https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-GAMING-Support-08G-P4-5173-KR/dp/B01KVZBNY0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538542680&sr=1-2&keywords=1070

GTX 1080 ($525) https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-GeForce-Strix-Graphics-STRIX-GTX1080-A8G-GAMING/dp/B01K5F8MJK/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1538542689&sr=1-3&keywords=1080

Maybe swap the Elite 130 for a case like the Thermaltake Core V1 (http://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Core-Computer-Chassis-CA-1B8-00S1WN-00/dp/B00M2UKGSM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426307728&sr=8-1&keywords=core+v1)?

This ASRock board is very similar to the Asus, it also has the AC WIFI capability (http://www.amazon.com/ASRock-Mini-Motherboards-Z97M-ITX-AC/dp/B00M0QY2H4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1426307748&sr=8-1&keywords=Asrock+1150+mini+itx), it also comes in at about $30 cheaper.

The R9 270 will be quite a bit faster than the 750 Ti for only $7 more (http://www.amazon.com/XFX-Double-925MHz-Graphics-R9270ACDFC/dp/B00GN1Y43E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1426307817&sr=8-4&keywords=r9+270).

A 21.5" monitor like that is fairly overpriced. What about this 24" BenQ (http://www.amazon.com/BenQ-GL2460HM-24-Inch-LED-Lit-Monitor/dp/B00IKDFL4O/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1426307948&sr=1-2&keywords=Benq)?

FULL SPECS AND LINKS:

PC

• Case: Thermaltake Core P5
  
• Motherboard: Asus Z170-A
  
• GPU: EVGA GTX 1080 SC Gaming
  
• CPU: Intel i7-7700k
  
• RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX 3200
  
• PSU: Corsair RM1000i Special Edition
  
• SSD: Samsung 850 Evo x3
  
• Fans: Thermaltake Riing
  
• Fan Covers: V1Tech Custom
  
  Other Stuff
  
  
• Monitor: Samsung C32HG70
  
• Mouse: Razer Lancehead
  
• Keyboard: Corsair K95 RGB
  
• Speakers: Kanto YU2
  
• Microphone: Blue Yeti
  
• Headphones: Audiotechnica M50X
  
• Mousepad: Reflex Labs XXL
  
• Bungee: Thermaltake Galeru
  
• Desk: Custom Built
  
• Chair: DXRacer Racing Chair
  
• [Wall Sound Dampers] (https://www.amazon.com/Acoustic-Panels-Studio-Wedges-Charcoal/dp/B01AB8JGK0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522880142&sr=8-2&keywords=wall+sound+proof+padding)

The Carbide series of Corsair, specifically the 300R would be a great step below $100,00: http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Carbide-Mid-Tower-Computer-CC-9011014-WW/dp/B006I2H0YS

Also the Fractal Design R4 is still on top http://www.amazon.com/Fractal-Design-Define-Cases-FD-CA-DEF-R4-BL/dp/B008HD3CTI. However a bit bigger.

Maybe you should try a mini itx case to save some room? This is a cool little case.

For those complaining that they missed out - you can get a RaspberryPI and 2 USB SNES controllers for less than the $80 they are asking for this mini SNES.

PI - 35.70

Case - 7.75

Controller 2 pack - 13.99

SD Card - 12.99

RetroPI OS - Free

Total: ~$70.00

Edit: as others have pointed out, you need a power brick. $10.

Also, here is a fantastic guide for building it.

I would go with base 13” model with 16gb of RAM and a 128gb.

The money saved could go to

2TB Intel 660p NVMe M.2 SSD

https://www.amazon.com/Intel-Internal-Solid-State-SSDPEKNW020T8X1/dp/B07GCLLKDC

Orico NVMe M.2 USB-C enclosure

https://www.amazon.com/ORICO-Transparent-Enclosure-Tool-Free-Samsung970/dp/B07QVBZZTR

Razer Core X eGPU

https://www.amazon.com/Razer-Core-Thunderbolt-External-Enclosure/dp/B07CQG2K5K

As for GPU recommendation... you may want to wait for macOS Mojave comes out. Hopefully it will include drivers for AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT

I built a mITX lan box in the Silverstone SG13 and I love it. It fits full size GPUs, ATX power supplies, and has room for most everything you'd want.

https://smile.amazon.com/Silverstone-Computer-Front-Panel-SG13B/dp/B00U8IS89E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502698627&sr=8-1&keywords=sg13b

A drawer seems like it would be pretty handy.

The SG13B can fit it and it's pretty compact.

Parting my way with my desktop and moving onto a laptop as I need more portability. I would very much appreciate your help price checking these items.

Case
NZXT H440 Mid-Tower - Black

CPU
Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5 GHz LGA 1150

CPU Cooler
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO with 120mm PWM Fan

Motherboard
MSI ATX DDR3 2600 LGA 1150 Z97 Gaming 7

RAM
Corsair Vengeance Pro 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600 MHZ (PC3 12800)

SSD
Samsung 850 EVO 250GB SATA III

GPU
EVGA GeForce GTX 970 4GB SSC ACX 2.0+

Power Supply
EVGA SuperNOVA 750 B1, 80+ BRONZE 750W, Semi Modular

While trying to find a case, I was debating between these four: The Corsair C70, 400R, 230T, or Thermaltake RX-1. Still not totally sure, but I'm really liking the S31.

This is what you need:

UGREEN USB 3.0 Switch, 2 Computers Sharing 4 USB Devices USB Sharing Switch Box for Mouse, Keyboard, Scanner, Printer with 2 pcs of 4.9ft USB 3.0 A to A Cable https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B01N6GD9JO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_A6GOAbFKVM0AX

The AmazonBasics antenna won't work well on VHF. Your local NBC station is on VHF...

I've had good luck using the HDHomerun network tuner.

Another quick question, I was able to find another keyboard so is there any part that I would be able to upgrade with an extra $100? Or would it be better to just pocket the extra cash?

Also, would this case work with all of these parts?
I've been eyeing it up on Amazon.

Total was around $2200 when I got it all, it was during cyber Monday so it was all on sale.
Parts and Spec list:

• Intel i7 6700k 4.00 GHz
  
• Gigabyte GeForce GTX 1080 Founders Edition
  
• Corsair LPX 32GB 2 x 16GB Memory
  
• Gigabyte LGA 1151 Intel Z170 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.1 USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard GA-Z170X-Gaming GT
  
• NZXT Computer Tower Cases CA-S340W-B3
  
• Cryorig H5 Universal CR-H5A Mid Tower CPU Heatsink with XT140 Fan for AMD/Intel
  
• Noctua 140mm Premium Quiet Quality Case Cooling Fan x3
  
• Samsung 850 EVO 1TB 2.5-Inch SATA III Internal SSD
  
• Seagate 3TB BarraCuda SATA 6Gb/s 64MB
  
• Corsair HXi Series, HX1000i, 1000 Watt (1000W), Fully Modular Power Supply, 80+ Platinum Certified
  
• Acer XF270HU 27-inch WQHD Widescreen LCD Monitor
  
• Razer BlackWidow Chroma Clicky Mechanical Gaming Keyboard

This drawer for your USB drives, adapters, memory cards, etc. Looks silly and has crappy build quality, but it's damn convenient.

There are also card readers for your unused 3.5" or 5.25" bays I own that specific one, and there's not much to say about it. It's functional so if you need one, it'll be worthwhile. I will note I had to open that one and cut out the power LED because it was so blindingly bright and unnecessary (it's built into my computer-- once I've tested it once I can assume it's turned on whenever my computer is turned on). But that was an easy fix and besides, $7 card reader, do you expect perfection?

Ok thanks for your input, the case actually comes with the 200 mm only but I bought the two 80s myself afterwards because I found out that the case supported it.

This is the case

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015UDUAKG/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495606314&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=thermaltake+core+v21+snow+edition

I ordered some from amazon that had 3M thermal tape on them. Some people recommend using something with more tac(thermal glue) but the plain janes work for me. I ordered the stock raspberry pi case. Both of mine are black. Nice and small and I leave both side panels out so there is more air movement.

LoveRPi Performance Heatsinks for Raspberry Pi 3 Model B (1 Set) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018BGRDVS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_eSdSCcfJlqdfu

Official Raspberry Pi 3 Case - Black/Grey https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F1PSFY6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ahcikJCLScSM6

I'm pretty sure this one is official. I got it here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F1PSFY6/

>J'ai entendu parler du nr600 aussi, ouep je pense que c'est ce que je vais faire pour remédier aux problèmes de chaleur

I won't risk my french, so good ol' english it is. Cooler Master cases, in general, are more about looks. If you want something that truly performs, maybe take a look at these:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Fractal-Design-FD-CA-MESH-C-WT-TGC-Computer-Case/dp/B07BPP9KYD/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_147_img_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YPD51EKG3MYTWE3XSKRS

​

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Computer-Intake-RL06WS-PRO/dp/B01MUDWTDK

​

https://www.amazon.com/Lian-Li-PC-O11DW-Tempered-Computer/dp/B07F9TC5W7/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=lian+li&qid=1564163909&s=pc&sr=1-1