Reddit mentions: The best computer networking transceivers

First off - no idea where you live, so you'll want to check out Ubiquiti's distributor list for where to buy all this. They do have an online store but it's US only - I'll hazard a guess you're in the US so I'll link to US stores.

I'll also explain each option in more detail for you...mostly because I've got nothing better to do right now. :D

So if your main objective is price, 900MHz or 2.4GHz WiFi will be cheaper than fiber. 900MHz is supposed to be great through trees, but depending on how thick they are, for such a short distance, 2.4GHz might work. Obviously we're talking branches and leaves here, if you have a line of 100 tree trunks to go through...pretty sure nothing will work!

• NanoStation Loco M900: https://store.ubnt.com/products/900-mhz-loco
  
• NanoStation M2: https://store.ubnt.com/collections/wireless/products/nanostation2
  
• NanoStation M2 Loco (cheaper, but seems to be sold out everywhere): https://store.ubnt.com/collections/wireless/products/2-4-ghz-loco
  
  Obviously you'll need one on each end (and of the same model!) - then you just run a single ethernet cable inside, into a PoE injector (which usually comes with them - it's a little box that you plug your local network into as well as power. It combines the two and sends it over the single ethernet cable to the NanoStation so you don't need to run power to it). You do need to set them up (ideally in the same room before you install them), but once set up and in place you should be all set.
  
  The fact that they work over PoE is actually somewhat useful - Ethernet's max distance is around 100 meters. To be on the safe side, I'd generally stick to a max run of 75 meters. So, you can run Ethernet from each building to either bring the APs closer, or to find a better line of sight option through your trees (eg, if they thin out a little in certain spots). As long as you mount them above head height, and your terrain is flat, you can pretty much stuck the APs anywhere as they're weatherproof.
  
  The main problem with WiFi is the speed. On 900MHz I believe the total capacity (tx/rx) in ideal situations is around 76Mbit, and on 2.4GHz I think that improves a little to around 105Mbit. Still not ideal. You'll max out your DSL, but file transfers and stuff like that will be slow. If you can find a way of having them see each other without trees in the way, the 5GHz AC gear is faster, but be warned it's a lot more susceptible to interference, so only do this if you can physically see the AP at each end with a bit of space around it.
  
  Now, onto my prefered option - fibre. This will cost quite a bit more, but you'll have a much more reliable setup, with no maintenance and potentially speeds of up to 10 or even 100Gbit down the line if you upgrade the equipment on each end.
  
  Fibre is pretty simple (sortof) - you've got two options:
  
  
• Cheap: 2x Gigabit Ethernet to SFP converters, 2x SFP modules, and 1x single mode fibre with LC connectors.
  
• Expensive: 2x SFP switches, 2x SFP modules, and 1x single mode fibre with LC connectors.
  
  So, for the "cheap" option, you'll want:
  
  

1. 2x of these TP-Link boxes - $25 each
   
2. 2x of the UF-SM-1G-S (1-Pair) SFP modules - $22 pair
   
3. 1x single-mode LC-connector fibre cable (more on that later) - $varies
   
   For the "expensive" option, you can replace the ethernet to SFP converter boxes with an actual ethernet switch. This is my preferred way of doing it but it's a lot more expensive. You'll want:
   
   
4. 2x SFP switches on each end, such as the $199 ES-8-150W. If you have or are thinking of going for a UniFi setup at any point (eg for their excellent WiFi APs for home/office use), I'd go for the $199 US-8-150W instead, though keep in mind you'll need a UniFi Controller to operate it (either a CloudKey or the controller software running on a local computer or Amazon AWS instance or similar). The EdgeSwitch is standalone so will work without the controller.
   
5. 2x SFP modules on each end - again, same as above, the UF-SM-1G-S (1-Pair) - $22 for the pair.
   
6. 1x single-mode LC-connector fibre cable - $varies
   
   So, for the fibre cable - this is a little trickier. You can get patch cables (pre-terminated) just like with ethernet, but - also like with ethernet - they're usually short lengths. Ubiquiti's longest pre-terminated offering is 300 feet. So, you can either terminate it yourself if you have the skill and the ^^^^very ^^^^expensive equipment, or order some pre-terminated cable from a local company - there are plenty of places that'll do this, so have a Google or alternatively, ask on /r/Ubiquiti as I'm sure the folks over there will have some recommendations. The key thing is, you want one strand of single mode fibre with LC connectors on each end. If you send them a link to the SFP module you're using, they'll be able to give you the right cable.
   
   Finally, you'll need to choose what type of cable you want - armoured or unarmoured. Armoured cable is more expensive, but a lot more durable. If you're burying it without a conduit to run it though, you absolutely must go for armoured cable. If you can run a conduit, ideally, I'd still stick an armoured cable in it for peace of mind, but you should be able to get away with unarmoured cable if not. Also, be careful with it - unlike with ethernet, bends must be gentle - so no sharp right angles.
   
   The unarmoured cable is around $1/m-ish - armoured will be more than that.
   
   PS: Sorry, that got way too long and detailed, but...everything you'd ever want to know is there so good luck. :P

Cool project idea, and definitely a lot of room for learning here. I’ll try to give you some ideas on how I’d do it, but keep in mind that I’m not an expert and doing wiring on anything that connects to a person can be dangerous, so this is very much an at your own risk situation.

Instead of starting with the UI, I’d start by figuring out how to connect the device to a computer and the computer to the internet, then you can build a UI on top.

Instead of a RaspberryPi I’d look into an ‘esp8266’ which is basically an arduino with WiFi. You can get one here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010N1SPRK I like these because they’re cheap, easy to connect to the internet (WiFi!) and relatively simple.

To connect that to the device, you’ll probably want to open it up and find where the buttons connect to the circuit board and solder on wires (each button should have 2 connections, and so each will be 2 wires). Run the two wires from the button to a relay - like https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BDJ8T4G

A relay is basically a switch that can be controlled electrically. In this case, you connect the ground on the relay to ground, the power to one of the pins on the 8266, and the two outputs to the wires from one switch (order doesn’t matter). Then when the 8266 sends power to that pin it will tell the relay to push the button.

You can power the 8266 from any USB, but note that if you’re going to use a USB adapter that plugs into the wall instead of a battery bank you need to use a good quality one (like an apple branded iPad charger) because cheap ones can be unsafe, and you’re going to have a lot of wiring in close proximity to stuff you’re connecting to your body.

I’d use the ‘arest’ library on your 8266 to make things easy - there’s directions here https://openhomeautomation.net/control-relay-anywhere-esp8266 note that you don’t need to pay for their cloud thing, but it might make it easier. If you don’t want to, you can get a ‘dynamic dns’ service and forward a port on the router to the 8266. You’ll probably want some extra code to make the relay turn off shortly after it turns on so it presses the button instead of holding it down.

If I was going to do this, here’s how I’d approach it:

1. if you’ve never soldered, get a decent quality soldering iron, some thin rosin core solder, and a couple learn to solder kits to practice on. You don’t need to be a master, but you’ll want to be able to make a learn to solder kit work before moving on to stuff you design yourself.
   
   
2. get the micro controller, figure out how to connect it to your computer, get the drivers and arduino IDE installed. Get to the point where it can blink an LED.
   
   
3. install ‘arest’, get it setup. Use the example code in the link, get it connected to your WiFi, get to the point you can turn an LED on and off by pasting a link in your browser using local up address.
   
   
4. get the relays wired up. Connect an LED on one of the relays, turn that on and off using the same code as in step 3
   
   
5. extend the code so it’s aware of all the pins you want to use to control relays, and any time it turns a pin on it turns it back off after a short delay (250 ms?). Verify this works with Leds
   
   
6. open the device you want to control, attach the wires to the button connections. Turn it on and make sure that touching the two wires for a button together ‘presses’ the button.
   
   
7. connect the button wires to the relays, test!
   
   
8. figure out network setup for out of home control (static ips, dynamic dns, port forwards)
   
   
9. make some kind of UI
   
   
   Hope this helps get you started. If (when) you get stuck I’d be happy to help if I can!
   

I don't know how many Hobby Electronics people we have in here but typically speaking when you develop a product you use someone else's transition tech. They make it super easy to integrate into electronics. You can do any of this with an Arduino now if you want to see how easy it is. And there are tons of options out there and just a super quick search on amazon shows they carry quite a few. Bellow is a few links to some kits you can buy off amazon right now. These kits let you link over Bluetooth or RF or even Wi-fi. So I don't really think valve would waist the time to make a completely new method of wireless communication for their hardware when so much is readily available that is reliable. Also when it comes to wireless transmission you only have a certain band of radio waves you can use commercially and they are all already used. I took apart a wireless Wi-Mote and it had one of these chips soldered right into the board. You can also see these chips soldering into the sixense as well. It is super common to do this. Also I think everyone here knows the PS3 and PS4 both use Bluetooth for their controller, you can even pair them with the Gear VR. So it is highly unlikely that valve has anything special here.

Low Power Bluetooth

RF-Transmitter

Normal Bluetooth

Wi-Fi connection


So In Short;
I don't think valve would waist their time making a custom wireless system. I would think they want this to be as universal as possible.

What you need to do is a bridge connection.

• Connect your PS4 to the laptop via ethernet, connect the laptop to the internet via wifi.
  
• Open Network and Sharing Center
  
• Click Change Adapter Settings on the left
  
• Select the WIFI adapter and LAN adapter together
  
• Right click on either and select "Bridge Connection.
  
  If im correct your PS4 should be able to see the internet and get the IP address.
  
  https://www.reddit.com/r/PS4/comments/2noqi8/help_using_laptop_as_ethernet_hub/
  
  I have Windows 8.1, not 7. But I did all that, and they seem to have bridged successfully, but it's still saying it's not obtaining an IP address. :/ Any idea if I need to do something else? I turned off ICS because it said I had to do the bridging.
  
  _______________________________________________________________________________________________________
  
  ​
  
  it seems windows 8/10 has a problem with doing this thou...
  
  Windows 10 has a (mobile hotspot button) click that it allows you to create a "wifi bridge" with the network you have.
  
  Example I steal wifi from the hotel comcast behind me, connected via wifi it sucks.. like 500kbps if im lucky. and my internal wifi on my laptop tops at like 10mpbs with an extrenal card it goes up to 25mpbs
  
  Using windows 10 "wifi hotspot" and an alfa/ethernal wifi adapter for even better range. I then get really nice speeds on my laptop... I then create a wifi hotspot with my own name and password and bam. Decent ps4 wifi speeds :)
  
  You can also use something like a wes610n or a buffalo airstation to create a wired bridge. and have it connect to 4 Ethernet devices.
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Linksys-WES610N-4-Port-Dual-Band-Entertainment/dp/B0056VP0KS

> You can use that 5V pad - that's what it's there for. Although, because you are using opto ESCs, none of your ESC 5V pads will be in use anyways.

I am not soldering direct to the board, just in case I want to put the miniAPM back in again, so they are kind of in use with the 3 wire ESC plugs.

> When you mention the BAT port - which board are you referring to? NAZE or the AIO?

Naze

> Satellite - yes power to the 3V pad, ground to whatever ground is convincing, and signal to one of your UART Rx pads. This is part of why I suggested a more modern board - most have dedicated Spektrum plugs :).

So I think I got this, sat ground to the 1st pad from the top with no marking, sat +3v to that 3v pad, sat signal to 3rd from the top marked 1.

I have an Arduino blue tooth adapter also in my parts collection, can I use this at the same time as also having an minimOSD connected (also in my parts collection)?

LEDs, I see the naze32 can control upto 32 LEDs, I want to put 3 on the top and 3 on the bottom of each arm, so 36 total. However I want each arm, top and bottom, to just be the same, so lets say LED 1 top, mirrors 1 bottom, and so on. Would it work if I wired them like this http://i.imgur.com/q5KUMv5.png, so that say the top would just stop, but the bottom would continue on to the next arm? If this would work, I would have effectively 18 LEDs, leaving me room for 14 more addressable for things like brake likes, and forward lights.

Thanks for all the help so far!

What kind of robot? You can absolutely make what you want work by simple bluetooth serial connection, but you'll have to have your Arduino setup to accept serial input and interpret that input to the desired effect. I'm not saying AutoArduino won't do what you want; I just get the feeling it might not be the best way. Do you have an bluetooth shield already or what is your setup?

Like a said, I have setup arduino programs to use this adapter to recieve and interpret serial commands from Tasker. (I believe you will still need a interstitial app but I know there's one that works seamlessly with tasker). So for instance, if you have a robot with three axis, you could send the serial message "xAxis,yAxis,zAxis" and have the arduino interpret that serial command to run your motors too those axis. It's really quite simple once you get your head around it. Feel free to PM me if you want some personalized help. I'd really love if you sent me your existing sketch for you robot and I can tell you how I would make it flow.

I don't want to sound harsh, but skull candies come in a reasonably nice package but their average buds with meh audio. Heavy on the bass, but muddy over all. You can have s4i's (still muddy but more comfortable) for about 30, If you can find some MH1c's on sale you are getting amazing phones! Priced at 30 bucks they are a steal, at 40 I still don't see better phones for the price, or even 10 or 20 bucks more.

But! You can still get Skullcandies for 10-20 bucks. If that is your price range then check out Brainwavz Beta v2. These used to be a pretty good deal when they cost $40 bucks. Amazon has them for 11.50, cheaper than most skullcandies and there sound quality is excellent and there noise isolation is pretty good too. If your in the market buy these!

This :-) If the birthday is still a bit away, Aliexpress is a good source for large kits that can be used for all sorts of projects; $22, $26 (Mega, Ultrasonic...), and single compatible UNO or Nano cost $2.60/$1.70 or so.

.

I build simple car-robots with students, and while you can get a whole set for around $15, they aren't too expensive if you buy locally either (e.g. 1, 2); It's rather easy to hook up, and even with just 10 lines of programming it's ready to drive around objects by itself.

Here's a kit similar to the ones from Aliexpress, but from a German seller; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Starter-Kit-fur-Arduino-UNO-R3-RFID-mit-Modulen-Sensoren-1602-LCD-Display-Ras-/181965808319?hash=item2a5e01e2bf:g:Jz4AAOSwepJXVUFe - so should not take too long (When I order from the UK to Germany it usually takes a week tops).

Also consider picking up a NodeMCU Wifi board, lots of fun for home automation, robots, remote controlled gadgets... (1, 2)


Does he have a soldering iron? Many try to avoid it, and you usually get away with it :-) I tried avoiding soldering as much as I can, until I got a decent soldering iron. Now it wasn't just easier, but also fun. It's actually easier then trying to splice wires, building complex circuits with jumpers, searching for loose connections... While something like the Hakko fx-888d is great, even a simpler soldering station with adjustable temperature will do to get started 1 2

Don't even bother. I know this is an "arduino" sub but the [ESP8266] (https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Internet-Development-Wireless-Micropython/dp/B010O1G1ES) (which has a smaller form factor dev board as well) and the ESP32 are cheaper, have more capability, more memory, more GPIO pins, more of everything... Best of all they use the same dev tools, language and libraries that arduino uses. Virtually every single device you can run on an arduino will also run against one of these other microcontrollers.

The ESP32 is the newest microcontroller from the makers of the ESP8266. Way more memory & flash memory, faster dua core CPU, lower power, way more GPIO pins, much better PWM support than the ESP8266, etc. However, because it is newer the library & module support is still not quite as mature as it is for the ESP8266 (at least a year ago when I last used it).

Seriously, if I was in your shoes, I wouldn't even bother with the ardunio if I was going to include wifi. ESP8266 and ESP32 both have them built in.

Again, I know this is an arduino sub but I'm pretty sure it is more of an "cool shit using microcontrollers" sub than strictly an "arduino hardware only" sub. And ESP8266's / ESP32's outclass arduinos in almost every regard.

PS: Most of those wifi shields for arduino actually have an ESP8266 on them in order to get wifi :-)

PPS: The ESP stuff is strictly 3.3v and all the GPIO pins are 3.3v. Arduino is all 5v. If your components all expect 5v and won't work with 3.3v, you'll need to run them all through a logic level converter to step the 3.3v up to 5v and back...

If you want to build a quadcopter, /r/Multicopter and /r/multicopterbuilds are great. They have lots of build guides and advice.

I would just buy one. Focus on one thing at a time. Whatever you do, resist the temptation to get something bigger than a dinner plate. You will underestimate how insanely loud these things are indoors. Smaller quads will also be more resistant to wind and prop backwash. Here's one for $40.

Here's a very good quad for $125 with a very nice camera. The flight controller can be loaded with betaflight, so you can modify the firmware to do whatever you want. Jacking into SPI might be a little hairy.

If you want to build the DWM1001 into the quad, you'll need to be writing C firmware. If you haven't flashed an IC before, then that's kind of jumping right into the deep end. It would be way easier to pull 3.3 V from something and use an ESP8266 or similar. That way you can use Arduino libraries and your life will be way easier.

I've also got a suggestion if you want a longer term goal: SLAM with DSO. Stream video over wifi with websockets to a laptop, do DSO or one of the newer algorithms there, and send instructions back to the quad. From there you can do all sorts of interesting stuff since you're basically generating dense 3d models (point clouds) of real spaces. Vision is huge and full of interesting problems.

There are three types of places that you'll commonly work for.

Microsoft shops - IIS, .NET, SQL, Microsoft MVC, ASPX, Ajax

Java shops - Whatever the latest and greatest frameworks and servers are, every place is different. Basically a nightmare to setup if you aren't familiar with it.

Other - Python, Ruby on Rails, Perl, PHP

I've worked for all 3 and would recommend a Microsoft shop. If you are trying to stand up something to show off your skills or practice, I'd say do a full end-to-end implementation of this http://mean.io/ to show off your skills to potential interviewers. It uses, for the most part, the latest and greatest technologies all the way from the DB to the frontend.

The most important part of being a Web dev is having a very good understanding of how it all works from the browser down to the back end. JavaScript runs in browsers and manipulates the html based DOM of the page served by the hosting software. The HTML served is very rarely static, and data is fed and received through the HTTP protocol. Understanding REST-fulness and the stateless nature of the web is key to good development.

If that's not your thing though all you need is a page that hosts a portfolio of your other projects. You could be doing stuff with NodeMCU (Lua, Node.js), Arduinos (C / Assembly), Raspberry Pis (PHP, Python, C) and as long as you post good logs of your projects with source code, interviewers will eat it up seriously. Most of the candidates I interview are not passionate like that, and coming at us with a diverse range of skills and a proven track record of self-motivated projects would get you immediately hired.

You can buy NodeMCUs for like $9 and immediately start coding in Lua or C for a WiFi-enabled microcontroller. The possibilities with this thing are endless and it's the state of the art platform for home based tinkering projects right now.

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES

http://www.nodemcu.com/index_en.html

You get points for MacGyver-ing together working solutions, but are you here are some better and "more proper" ways of doing it:

1. Best case, if you can run in a single Ethernet cable from your bedroom out the living room, then get another wireless router and place that into the living room. Connect the two routers together lan (not wan) port to lan port. On the second router in the living room, going to the menus and turn off DHCP so that IP addresses will only be issued by the router in the bedroom. Boom you're done and everything will run fast and smooth.
   
   
2. if you can't run the ethernet cable, you can also replace the ethernet cable with power line networking boxes to use your electrical wiring to create virtual ethernet cable to connect the two routers as described in number one. This will cost a bit more then the cable and its performance depends on the type of wiring and stuff in your house, but you can work really well.
   
   
3. you can also get power line networking devices that have wireless or additional wired ethernet ports on the receiver box. For example, this one has a receiver box with four ethernet outputs that could accommodate your equipment in the living room without an additional router needed.
   
   
4. if you still want to go the wireless route, you can get a wireless bridge unit that will connect to the wireless signal coming from your main router and then distribute that to the additional wired devices in your living room.

Inspired by /u/commanderkull's post here, I turned an LED-matrix into a performance monitoring tool for my Linux PC. In the gif I am stopping+restarting a Windows VM to show what it looks like when the load changes (of course Windows blue screens, right?)
I wrote a small server to grab the current CPU, memory, and swap usage of my system when the ESP8266 requests it. The ESP8266 then parses the the string and lights the LEDs as necessary.
I have CPU usage displayed in blue LEDs, memory in green, and swap in red. The three colors are added together when displayed (i.e., all the LEDs turn right if each of the above are at 100%)
The code can be found on my GitHub. It's quick and likely dirty, but it gets the job done. The server doesn't cleanly handle the client disconnected+reconnecting right now, but I might add that in the future. As I hinted above, the server only works on Linux right now. Feel free to fork my repo to add Windows support if you like.
This is my first project that I'd consider more or less complete, but it could stand to look a bit nicer. If anyone has any suggestions for that, I'm all ears.

Compnents used:
NodeMCU ESP8266
LED Matrix
Misc. jumper wires

I found this one for only 40, which seems pretty affordable. You'll definitely want somewhere with a good return policy because there can occasionally be issues mixing vendors with these guys, so you'll want to try them out with your switches. Usually, the prices can be similar since the major cost is in the optical transceiver. I recommend going with GBICs if you can afford it because my experience has been that they require less maintenance than external boxes. For reference, we replaced our 100 megabit converters with GBICs as part of a backbone upgrade last year and found that they virtually dropped our fiber maintenance time to zero.

edit just realized the reseller is Amazon, so you should have good luck there.

> Edit: Looks like LAN1 is doing all the lifting and LAN2 is pretty much idling even though they're both connected.

This is normal. To saturate both lan adapters at the same time you would either need an MPIO iSCSI setup or have multiple clients transferring data concurrently (which will likely be bottlenecked by the disk performance on this unit, so MPIO or MCS iSCSI with dual LAN on client side is the only viable usecase and will only help sequential io).

That said if you do want faster than gigabit speed - don’t mess with iSCSI and multipass — instead upgrade to 10G networking when you are ready. It’s got pretty cheap these days — you can get connectivity between nas and pc for under $250 - including lan adapters, SFP+ switch (mikrotik has 5-port one for $150), multimode fiber cable and SFP+ to optics transiecers. Or just go with Direct-attached like this and save even more.

But that’s a big detour into offtopic..

Hands down, this is the most useful thing I have created in my time brewing.

I set up a ESP8266 chip with DS18B20 temperature probes. I use the MQTT protocol, which allows for internet connected devices to communicate with each other, to send temperature data to a RPi that is running an Apache server which displays a graph of the temperature over time. I can access this data any time on my local network.

I had done basic Arduino projects up until this point but I had very little trouble setting it up. You can wire up multiple temp sensors in parallel if you have multiple fermentations going on. I use stainless steel thermowells to get the temp inside the vessel. I also use this set up while I am mashing to monitor my temps from a different room.

Here's some of the links I found useful while researching all this.

A basic wiring guide

Basics of setting up MQTT

Displaying the data in a graph

I can provide you with my code if you do decide to go down this route.

Here's what one of my graphs looks like for a mash. The temperature jumps around due to me moving the probe and stirring.

There are definitely a lot of improvements I could make. For one thing, the RPi doesn't save a history of the temperatures it receives, so it will only display data while I have the page up. I have some ideas about how to save this data, just haven't attempted anything yet.

The hardware limitations are difficult, but I'm really enjoying the challenge. I've been running mongoose-os on an esp8266 which is great for programming in c or c++. You could pick up a node mcu which is a fantastic low cost development board for the esp8266 and be building your own firmware within a couple days.

If you don’t have space for an Ethernet cable is under the door, then Fiber cables are pretty thin. It ain’t pretty but I’ve used gaffers (white is preferable, colored kinds can stain if they get wet) tape and blue painters tape to get them by doors before. Especially easy if the door has some sort of foam “weather” seal (indoors it’s generally used for dampening noise). The trick is to orient it nearly parallel with the crevice you are trying to get it through, rather than perpendicular.

Then you could use 2 of these

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0716XT1QT

Or just one, and an additional 1g sfp (not 10g sfp+) transceiver module and plug it into a mellanox card from eBay (connectx3 is well supported and cheap)

Just test the gaffers/painters tape after a few months to make sure it won’t pull away weakpaint

Thanks :)

No cloudkey—I'm hosting the unifi controller in an LXC container on the SYS-5028D-TN4T server at frame right. I've considered switching to a cloudkey and probably will at some point, but keeping things in the LXC container has some advantages (especially with backups, since I can take advantage of LXC + ZFS and do snapshot replication).

Transceivers are Ubiquiti-branded ones off of Amazon—seemed the safest choice.

The DACs are all 10Gtek (the ubiquiti-compatible ones). I would have preferred to stick with DACs for everything, but those two ports connect to a couple of Windows PCs on the other side of the room and it was simpler and easier to get fiber over to them.

Hey I work in IoT & I'm currently working on some related stuff, but which is totally unrelated to chickens ;)

I have an Rpi around somewhere, but my work is mostly on ESP8266's like the NodeMCU which you can program right in the Arduino IDE.

What are you specifically trying to do? If it's just a webcam... honestly, the off-the-shelf wireless cams are so cheap now that they are certainly a tempting alternative. Also many have motion detection etc.

Not to dissuade you from this project, just sayin ;)

Temp / humidity / light levels are also an option, maybe could get fancy with a methane sensor to determine if the coop needs to be cleaned... scales to weigh the chickens... egg detectors...

ESP8266 sounds like the best fit. Raspberry Pi needs an extra board to get Analog Input. Arduino needs an extra board for wifi (or an expensive board with wifi built in).
And ESP8266 is easy to use if you have Arduino experience, since the ESP8266 controller uses the Arduino Software. This is a good board to start with.

I've used a bunch of different DACs including this one.

What I'd say is that compatibility has improved, and most DACs at 1m are working. it's when you get above 1m where you get into trouble.

I also have a bunch of ConnectX-2 Mellanox and also Chelsio NICs working fine with cheap Finsivar transceivers i got for like $7 each off ebay.

Also got a 1Gbit transceiver working on it fine as a uplink to my gigabit switch. The trick with getting 1Gbit transceivers to work is to manually set the link to 1Gbit.

I got the switch in beta and it's working great. Only thing buggy is that only two of the 4 BASE-T copper ports work well for me, but that's fine for me, I got it for the SFP+ ports anyways. Super cheap Connect-X2 NICs available.

The HiLetgo on Amazon seems to be well reviewed and is pretty cheap. How easy would something like this be to use? https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Internet-Development-Wireless-Micropython/dp/B010O1G1ES

Also, to turn on the computer, I have to close a circuit. I could send a signal through one pin, but I'm scared that sending the wrong current could fry my motherboard, so I want to just physically close the circuit. Is there a module that when a pulse is sent to it it will connect two other lines? Like a digital switch? Thanks so much for all your help!

EDIT: just found out the second thing I'm looking for is called a relay :)

I'm assuming you just want to play with fiber so with that, pick up a couple of SFP fiber transceivers and some simple fiber with LC connectors. Something like this:

• TRENDnet Gigabit SFP LC Module, Multi-Mode, TEG-MGBSX. You need one for each end of a fiber cable.
  
• 1 Meter Multimode Duplex Fiber Optic Cable (62.5/125) - LC to LC - Orange. Many lengths available, use them just like ethernet cables between devices.
  
• Some SFP PCI-e NIC card for the R510. I'm guessing something like this 10Gtek Intel 82576 Chip Gigabit Ethernet Converged Network Adapter(NIC), Dual SFP Ports, PCI Express 2.0 X4, Same as E1G42EF. Someone else might know if that model works with the 510.
  
  This is still only going to give you gigabit speed as that is all those switches can do, but you can play with the fiber. It will be just like using a normal ethernet cable but more expensive. For future stuff you can upgrade the fiber to OM4 for 10G and SFP to SFP+ also for 10G, but that will need a new switch as well as NIC.

The ideal solution would be to pull fiber, which is not electrically conductive so it won't have either problem. You'll need two switches with a SFP port, a pair of transceivers, and of course the cable. Make sure the connectors will fit through the conduit, and make absolutely sure it's long enough.

Good to know, thank you. The board will almost solely be controlling lights, maybe looking for a few button presses, so I can probably hit 30 Hz update rate.

I think I'm going to go with one of these ESP8266 NodeMCU boards (e.g. https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Internet-Development-Wireless-Micropython/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8&th=1) as the specs look great and it's got built in wifi too. I'm just wondering why it's so much cheaper than something like the UNO or MEGA. I haven't kept up with recent developments much, are these boards getting outdated and replaced these days? Are there some disadvantages to the ESP8266 I should know of? I'm potentially going to turn this project into a product I can sell so I want something robust.

My guess is that you'll need to do some sort of modulation, but I'm not an expert. I wonder if you could apply software defined radio tools to this problem. I found a few laser-related SDR posts, which were also research related.

https://www.rtl-sdr.com/tag/laser/

I also wonder if you could hack up existing copper<->fiber Ethernet media converter hardware to accomplish this task. Not sure if that would be useful to you.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AVRLZI

Just remember not to look at the fiber/laser with your last remaining good eye!

You can connect them directly with a direct attach cable (DAC). Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U8BL09Q/ref=psdc_537316_t1_B01LSJOEIU

If you need a longer connection you can get 2 fiber modules and a patch cable. Check ebay and craigslist for good deals.

I use a DAC between my home server and desktop. Set the IP addresses on the same subnet, that's different from your main network, and connect to the server using that IP. For example, I use 172.16.0.1 and 172.16.0.2 for the desktop and server. I connect to the server's shared folder using \\172.16.0.2\shared\

You might need to tweak the settings to get the full throughput. I had to double the receive and transmit buffers. Works great for running quick backups.

I setup a peer-to-peer 10Gb network between my 3 servers (R410, R510 & R710) using the Chelsio dual-port cards (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O1M9UOA/) and these cables (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WHS3NCA/). Works like a friggin' champ. I already have a GB switch for the LAN and those three boxes are the only ones that would truly benefit from 10GB so I didn't see the need for a 10GB switch at this point. I'm pondering moving my office to the basement in a room next to my server room and if I do, I'll throw a card in my desktop and add it to the peer-to-peer network.

I like to use a switch for this purpose. Just find the cheapest switch from a reputable brand that has the interfaces you need.

Here's my choice for SFP

Here's my choice for SFP+ - Notice you can find these MUCH cheaper through a VAR that's a Juniper partner.

But I've had pretty good luck with these. Have a couple running legacy stuff, and they've worked forever.

Yes that’d work fine. I believe there is an issue now with the UDM Pro not being able to autonegotiate a 1Gb connection so at the moment you’ll need to specifically change that port to 1GB but it should be something a future firmware will fix.

I am using this SFP DAC cable from my NAS to the USW24 Pro and can confirm it works great as well, and is available in many different lengths:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WHS3NCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_MfEXDbT7ZSHZE

Interesting. That’s a good start and the code isn’t too complicated.

I have this ESP8266 board from an old project. Is there an easy way I can have notifications sent to my IOS device when something’s being watered? I want it to be a little smarter than just an Arduino watering based on a sensor input.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_n36MBb02PSPPW

How is the servo motor related to the power setting on the fan? Maybe you have a system where it does the switching, but anyway I just amazon searched "arduino wireless" and this is what I got:

I actually bought these, haven't used em yet.

Wifi Sheild

Bluetooth

I think it should be formatted right. For me, ardiuno has so much stuff, equipment is the easy stuff, programming gets tough lol.

> Bonus Question: what is the point of a combo sfp slot?

That means that SFP port is paired with one of the ethernet ports. If you put a SFP in that slot it will disable one of the ethernet ports.

If you actually mean "what's the point of an SFP slot" - you can put a SFP, something like this in that slot to convert to fiber. Useful for making a long run to another building or something like that.

Yes, the direct attach cables will work with a SFP+ switch. I personally purchased these Mellanox cards with these direct attach cables and this switch, Mikrotik CRS317-1G-16S+RM. Everything works together perfectly and was easy to setup. I picked that switch because someone in another thread said the Quanta was loud and pulled a lot of electricity whereas the Mitronik is quiet, which it is, and only pulls about 44watts.

Along with the lights and the ESP8266, you would also need some way to power it and the ESP8266. The LED string I chose is 12v, and the ESP8266 is powered by 5V, so you will need a voltage regulator as well. Also, if you choose the lights I linked they probably wouldn't arrive by the time you need them (they are from a Chinese distributor). What is important is that they are individually addressable WS8211 based. I chose those because they look like a classic christmas light string.

This is as far as I've gotten with the project so far. You also need to set up an environment on your computer to compile the custom firmware that will be flashed to the ESP8266.

I'm afraid that really is no packaged solution for this, so if you don't have a lot of experience with electronics or programming, you may find it an uphill battle.

Good luck!

Thanks!
Here is the controller. There might be some other information on its page!

HiLetgo 2pcs ESP8266 NodeMCU LUA CP2102 ESP-12E Internet WiFi Development Board Open Source Serial Wireless Module Works Great with Arduino IDE/Micropython (Pack of 2PCS) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010N1SPRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_c8HDCbK1HZZFS

Don't know much about the VPN part, but if it is at all helpful - I got rid of the Bell Home Hub 3000 completely. It continues to broadcast a hidden Wifi SSID for TV services (which I don't have) and I had problems with DMZ/PPPoE passthrough reliability. Replaced with this SFP>RJ45 Media Converter for $39. I'm in Ontario, and it works brilliantly. I receive full speeds and don't have to worry about the Bell junk hardware. All that is required is to set VLAN 35 tagging on Orbi and enter PPPoE credentials into Internet setup.

I have a NodeMCU that will run a few hours or a few days between resetting and I have been searching for a couple weeks for solutions and based on the reset report the best I can find is power supply issue. My power supply is an older computer ATX 5V line that I am using as a bench, and it has also been powered straight from the USB on my computer. I have put filter caps on the 5-0 line as well as on the 3.3-0 pins with no changes.

The two questions I have are, is there any information on where to troubleshoot next? I am considering the board may be bad and replacing it, but really don't know. Second, should this board reboot after this event? An occasional crash is not wanted but can be tolerated if the board reboots, but right now it hangs and I can't figure out which pins to trip to force a reboot, or even if this is possible.

Exception (9):
epc1=0x40213a4a epc2=0x00000000 epc3=0x00000000 excvaddr=0x02018206 depc=0x00000000

ctx: cont
sp: 3fff0880 end: 3fff0bb0 offset: 01a0

>>>stack>>>
3fff0a20: 3fff0fd0 00000000 00000000 4021a8f3
3fff0a30: 3fff2084 00000000 3fff2084 40213a8e
3fff0a40: 3fff0fd0 00013389 3fff2084 40213def
3fff0a50: 00000001 3fff28a8 00000001 402141a4
3fff0a60: 00000000 00000000 00000000 00000000
3fff0a70: 3ffeed70 3ffef8dc 3ffefb90 00009a4c
3fff0a80: 3fff1d48 00000000 3fff2724 4021420c
3fff0a90: 40201842 00001388 00001388 402050d8
3fff0aa0: 3fff1d48 00000000 3fff2724 4020539e
3fff0ab0: f101a8c0 40204cc4 3fff0b10 4020b2b1
3fff0ac0: 3fff1dec 00000012 3ffefac4 3fff0b10
3fff0ad0: 3ffe9230 3fff1c74 3fff1d48 40204299
3fff0ae0: 3ffe9230 f101a8c0 3fff0b10 40100690
3fff0af0: 3ffe8ff4 3ffefac4 00000014 3ffef85c
3fff0b00: 00000012 3ffef850 3ffef850 40207dc7
3fff0b10: 3fff2294 0000001f 00000012 40207e1e
3fff0b20: 3fff1c74 40204160 3ffef3b8 3ffefb84
3fff0b30: 3fffdad0 00000000 3ffef3b8 3ffefb84
3fff0b40: 3fffdad0 00000000 00000001 40207e96
3fff0b50: 3fffdad0 00000000 3ffefb7d 402082d8
3fff0b60: 3ffef60c 3ffef608 3ffefb7d 402036fc
3fff0b70: 3ffef5fc feefeffe feefeffe feefeffe
3fff0b80: 00000000 00000000 00000001 3ffefb84
3fff0b90: 3fffdad0 00000000 3ffefb7d 4020bbb0
3fff0ba0: feefeffe feefeffe 3ffefb90 40100710
<<<stack<<<

ets Jan 8 2013,rst cause:2, boot mode:(1,6)


ets Jan 8 2013,rst cause:4, boot mode:(1,6)

wdt reset

Thanks for any help

You may want to skim this thread on /r/networking. The issue is Cat5/5e/6 can carry voltage along the ground lines and end up frying equipment. So I really do mean "to be on the safe side" for real safety reasons, not just future compatibility reasons.

As for the cost, TP Link has some converters for fairly reasonable costs. Two of these, and a 60m fiber cable come to $160. That's not absurd, and it's worth it to do it right.

For 10G try a SFP+ card in each server. I think Amazon has two Mellonex 2 cards for $70, and a DAC cable.

Use them like regular NICs. Set a static IP on each and enjoy.

Lot Of 2 Mellanox Connectx-2 PCI-Epress x 8 10GBe Ethernet Network Server Adapter Interface Card MNPA19-XTR In Bulk Package https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016OYD0D4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WDMZCb1D6DJWZ

10G SFP+ DAC Cable – for Mel MC3309130-002 10GBASE-CU Passive Direct Attach Copper (DAC) SFP Twinax Cable, 2m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D8BJBM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KEMZCbW5CWZPF

I used this to connect my Ubiquiti 8 Port POE EdgeSwitch and my Mikrotik CRS125-24G-1S-IN switch together. Works great :)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WHS3NCA

I just plugged it in and it worked.

>Ideally I would like to have the cable modem in my house

This is the impractical part of the plan. The cable company is not going to be cool with this kind of unauthorized extension of their coax grid so then both you and you're neighbor would be having to try and hide this fact if you ever need them to troubleshoot your signal, despite the fact that this is itself likely to result in signal problems.

If you're going to do this you're going to have to have the modem at your neighbors. Just get a reliable arris surfboard and it shouldn't be a problem, most providers even have a self service portal now where you can initiate a restart of the modem by a signal sent from the provider side.

In order to have only the modem at your neighbors and have the router at your house your likely best bet is going to trenching fiber with a layer 1 media converter to ethernet at either end. These are available quite affordably but you'll want to test the modem-converter-fiber-converter-router setup with a short cable before investing in the long cable.

If you want to use a microwave/wireless link instead then the router probably has to be at your neighbors house as well, because a wireless bridge inbetween the router and modem isn't likely to work.

What you are looking for is a fiber to copper media converter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATKQ/ref=psdc_537316_t1_B01M7TFP02?th=1

You will need to get a pair of these. One will go in your room and the other will go on the other end of the fiber, and then you can use a copper network cable to plug into the router. Note that you need to purchase the correct kind for multimode or singlemode fiber. I tried googling the numbers printed on your cable but didn't see anything conclusive. If your fiber cable has a yellow cladding with blue connectors, it is probably singlemode. You also need to make sure the connector will fit. The connector on the product linked above is SC but you can also find LC and ST fiber patch cables.

You can also get a SFP Copper adapter that gives you a "normal" RJ45 jack, obviously much more expensive, but the patch cable is then a normal $1 cable: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Cisco-SFP-GE-T-Compatible-1000Base-T/dp/B007UR0CZE

Personally, I would just buy some 10G DACs like this one: https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-SFP-H10GB-CU1M-10GBASE-CU-Passive-1-Meter/dp/B01LSGGUOY/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=V68X5W7E0794MPDYGRY8&th=1

Those DACs are what I use to "stack" switches, including both 48-ports and 24-ports. Keeping a single DAC for 1G and 10G makes life easier and leaves an upgrade path for the future.

I'm using this to go from my USG-PRO-4 to a US-24-250W
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHF7JSG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eQjZCb6VNWZ8R
They are both plain SFP ports but this cable works great. Didn't have to configure anything!

SFP+ card, I suggest a Mellanox ConnectX-2 or 3, they're cheap and abundant on eBay, and work great with Windows (Not FreeBSD, as I discovered, but I imagine Linux has decent support) and a 10GbE module, I personally have two of these linking rooms together: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XQBFHNL/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It honestly might be slightly cheaper to get a pair of ConnectX-2 or 3 cards and get a DAC (Direct Attach Copper) cable as tracernz said below. DAC cables max out around 5 meters or so, and get a lot more expensive as they get longer. But unless they're at opposite ends of a large rack, that shouldn't be an issue.

You are currently running fiber? That's excellent. I am confused about one thing.. are the dual mode transceivers, are those like double the line speed? Like 2 ethernet connects? If I get the UF-SM-10G does that fit in a normal SFP+ connection card?


Let me be more precise to alleviate my confusion.

If I buy this card, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCZCA3O/ref=psdc_13983711_t1_B0054RSMVS . Do I then need to buy 1 of these, https://www.amazon.com/U-Fiber-Multi-Mode-SFP-10G/dp/B01N0XR1RL/ to fit in it... and then I need to buy 1 of these, or 2 of these to connect it to the switch? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071KWNFP3/r Then if I got the Ubiq switch, I need to buy another transceiver ( https://www.amazon.com/U-Fiber-Multi-Mode-SFP-10G/dp/B01N0XR1RL/ ) to fit in it as well. Then it would talk to it, but would it be at 10G or more? 10G each way or .. not sure what the dual mode means.

Typically these are for connecting switches together without using up one of the regular copper switch ports. Potentially over longer distances than 1GbaseT can support (>100M)

They're basically like any other switch port, however they will require compatible optics or for short runs, a DAC cable like this one can be used.

You don't need converters with SFP modules. Converters with built in optics like this one will work in this case. Or you can get one with an SFP incuded.

The ones with built in optic usually use SC connectors, that are a bit bigger than LC. So if you need to thread a patch cable through small opening, through a wall for example, LC connectors might be a better option.


You also need to keep in mind if you are using single mode or multi mode optics, as they will need different types of cable. Multi Mode is typically cheaper (although the difference is not that big for 1Gbit optics) but has a shorter range. the range for MM is ~500 meters, so it is good enough in this case.

I have the D-Link AC3200 router (http://us.dlink.com/products/connect/ac3200-ultra-wi-fi-router/), so I'm sure it's beefy enough for fiber bandwidth. I've installed DD-WRT and done some basic things like QoS and shared network drive.

Can I just buy something like https://www.amazon.com/Gigabit-Ethernet-Converter-1000Base-Tx-Transceiver/dp/B06XBSZJL3/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1504940695&sr=8-9&keywords=fiber+modem and plug the fiber line to it and the ethernet out? This modem has two fiber inputs (Tx and Rx) and I'm not sure if that matters.

I've used aliexpress or Amazon depending on how quickly I wanted the things.

For a NodeMCU I'd suggest going with the version 2 instead of the version 3 since they fit better on a 400 point breadboard. I generally just search for 'NodeMCU CP2102' which should get you to the version 2.

• amazon link
  
• aliexpress

Arduino with an ESP chip is probably the best way to go. I found this tutorial that grabs data from a website and you can use this chip.

--

You can also program these using Python with MicroPython. There's this example of someone using this to put Data to a server. You can start with that and modify the code, in his other examples he also has how to use an LED and how to read data from a webpage. It's also worth checking out his other examples and other code online! Just a quick note, you configure the Wifi settings in boot.py then have your main script in main.py.

It would be major news if your ISP gave you what you describe. Which ISP is this? What is their router's manufacturer name and model number? What is the SFP module's manufacturer name and model number? Are you sure it is GPON and not EPON? If this is really GPON, how did you get your ISP to give you a router with a SFP module?

If you really have what you claim to have, then all you should need is a gigabit SFP to RJ-45 media converter, plus information on whether the ISP router uses DHCP or PPPoE. If it uses PPPoE, you would need the PPPoE credentials so that you can configure your router with them. As for the media converter, something like this could work:

https://www.amazon.com/MC220L-Converter-1000Mbps-supporting-mountable/dp/B003CFATL0

It could just be me but I hate Netgear, anytime I see their stuff I just want to throw it out a window and run it over.

​

You can go with this MikroTik switch for waaaaayyyy less money, get the same number of ports and then just pick up a few 10Gb copper SFPs for pretty cheap and use those. For 20x of those copper sfps and that switch it'll come to about $1,500 USD. You also have the added "future-proofing" bonus of having an SFP-based switch so if you ever want to do 10Gb fiber later down the road and 2x 40Gb QSFP+ ports for fast uplink.

I am running LC-LC fiber from my US-16-XG switch to my workstation, and copper DAC from the switch to each of my esxi hosts and to my FreeNAS box. Although I am in the process of moving from 3m DACs to LC-LC fiber, just need to buy enough transceivers.

If you go the route of fiber, you need a transceiver on each end of the fiber. If you go copper DAC it has the transceiver built into it so no need to buy a transceiver. Either way be wary of what works and doesn't work, much like NICs its very dependent on the connecting device and what transceiver/DAC is supported. I have the models of my DACs and transceivers at home, if you need that info just let me know and I can provide what I'm using later tonight when I get home (after 7pm -7 MST).


DAC is usually more expensive the longer you go, and also has a relatively short length cap (i think its like 10m?). Fiber is cheaper but you have the added cost of transceivers, Fiber can also handle MUCH longer runs without signal loss/degradation.

> Then it would talk to it, but would it be at 10G or more? 10G each way or .. not sure what the dual mode means.

Its still 10Gb in both directions so a total of 10Gb, it's not cumulative.

Definition of single mode vs multi mode its basically just the tolerances on the fiber. You can stick to multi mode and be fine. Single mode is used for really long runs in the order of thousands of feet or more.


> Singlemode fiber has much tighter tolerances for optics used. The core is smaller and the laser wavelength is narrower. This means that SMF has the capability to carry a higher bandwidth at much longer transmission distances. Singlemode SFPs work mainly in the 1310nm and 1550nm wavelengths and is mostly used in a long distances transmission environment reaching 2km, 10km, 40km, 60km, 80km and 120km.

Regarding the amazon links you provided:

• this is a DAC cable, no transceivers needed
  
• this is a multi mode sfp transceiver and would be similar to what you'd want to use, but make sure its compatible
  
• this 10Gb SFP NIC is sufficient but a bit expensive and I'm not familiar with 10Gtek's NICs. Look on ebay for the Intel x520 DA2 NICs theyre about the same price, or a Mellanox Connectx-2 is MUCH cheaper and works with esxi/FreeNAS 11
  
  Bottom line is if you're dead set on 10G then just know its not a cheap buy in to do it right. Depending on your hardware you could save hundred by bypassing the 10G switch and doing host to host connections e.g; going from unRAID NIC directly to your host with fiber/sfp+ transceivers (I ran this way for quite some time).

A single piece cable that connects two SFP(+)/QSFP ports, used for hardware within the same room or rack. There are active and passive ones; sometimes you need active.

https://www.amazon.com/10G-SFP-DAC-Cable-SFP-H10GB-CU2M/dp/B00U8BL09Q/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Unifi+DAC&qid=1569519680&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Wemos and NodeMCU are popular breakout boards for the esp8266. Basically they take the esp8266 and make it easier to work with. You can program them in a variety of ways including the arduino IDE. The downside is there is only 1 analog pin. Since you are intending on using photoresistors you'll have to decide on a workaround since you will need multiple pins. This should be easier to do (and cheaper) than getting wifi up and running on an arduino. In my opinion using an arduino for a wifi project is not worth doing.


I've used the following NodeMCU: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1486494246&sr=1-2&keywords=nodemcu


Took me about 10 minutes to get an mqtt connection up and running with the arduino IDE.


I would stay away from starter kits since you have a specific project in mind and just buy a variety pack of resistors, some capacitors, leds, and then whatever you would need for your project. You'll just spend more money on a starter kit and you'll likely need to buy additional parts down the line.

That's exactly right. An adapter like this will work... https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Converter-Multi-Mode-MC200CM/dp/B003AVRLZI/ref=pd_sbs_469_4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3QGNXVWWAB3M05R1MEWW

There are cheaper ones and more expensive ones. Just make sure you match up fiber to adapter. Either single or multimode and make sure the fiber and adapter are the same sc or lc.

Buying a MT-RJ or LC fiber patch cable is easy.
Then you just need an LC-RJ45 transceiver.

https://www.amazon.com/5M-Gigabit-Duplex-Fiber-Optic/dp/B007OXJ0HK/

I think this one will work:

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-SFP-Transceiver-550M-ipolex/dp/B0716XT1QT/

I'd need to know exactly what CIsco switch or line card you are working with to be confident.

I'm fairly certain it's 10Gbit all the way. Mellanox Connect-X 2 in my PC, one of these SFP+ modules, LC fiber to the other SFP+ in the switch, this from the switch to the other Mellanox card in my unRAID server.

Oh I know; it's more of a learning exercise with the benefit of at least getting more than 1Gb/s between my PC and unRAID server for copying files.

You just need a wireless bridge. This one is pretty nice: http://amzn.com/B0056VP0KS

Nice. I've been looking at these two:

http://www.amazon.com/Koss-PortaPro-Headphones-with-Case/dp/B00001P4ZH/ref=pd_cp_e_0

http://www.amazon.com/Brainwavz-Beta-Noise-Isolating-Headphones/dp/B005IF3CE8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1348551530&sr=8-1&keywords=Brainwavz+Beta+%28V2%29

But maybe I'll save up my shillings and get those instead.

Are you sure it’s not 32x8? That modem will give you plenty of room for expansion if you were to need faster speeds. The router is gigabit capable, so that’s also good.

Terminating fiber can be tricky, so I’d purchase a pre-terminated direct burial fiber that’s about 330ft or more so you can leave a service loop on each side. You’ll need a fiber to Ethernet converter in your garage and where your router will be. Here’s an example of a converter, it comes with the transceiver.

I have had very good luck with the HiLetgo boards from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010O1G1ES

Even though a few have released their magic smoke and no longer work.... let's just say that I was conducting "endurance" testing on them... ya, endurance testing... that was it.

Basically this project

http://randomnerdtutorials.com/esp8266-dht11dht22-temperature-and-humidity-web-server-with-arduino-ide/

EDIT: I used a higher model sensor so didn't need extra stuff, I could just plug it in

ESP8266

DHT22

and a flat USB cable so I can close the cooler easier

I didn't bother with the Arudino stuff, I have a script that runs and greps the values from the esp webpage and uploads it into mongodb, though I haven't done anything fancy yet with the data, I just check the page to see what it's at.

So continuing on with our conversation...


TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet Media Converter, Up to 1000Mbps RJ45 to 1000Mbps SFP Slot Supporting MiniGBIC Modules (MC220L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_PP7pDbM5HVMHK


That was the device they placed between the fiber line coming in and the "modem". If I have sfp available on my er-4 why do need this "modem"?

Thanks for the help!

I'm using a DAC cable like this, and neither end is what I would call hot.

Thanks for the gold!

These guys are very easy to use and only require 4 connections - 5v, GND, tx, rcv.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0093XAV4U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This is a HC-06 which means you don't have to jump through hoops to run AT commands - just connect it to a USB-serial converter and open up a terminal (like Tera Term) then run the AT commands to set the BAUD rate.


If you can find the HC-05 they are more flexible and configurable but you have to hook them up to an arduino and connect the KEY/WAKE/EN pin to 3.3v and load the serialloop sketch to run AT commands to set the BAUD rate.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JP05S6C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


There are tutorials about how to use the HC-05 to make your own Bluetooth shield. You can't really use the HC-06 to make a true Bloetooth shield as there is no way to have it auto-reset the arduino when you upload a sketch but you can alway push the reset button to upload. In your case, you probably don't want the board to reset every time you connect anyway so just use the HC-06.

Gigabit Ethernet Media Converter, Multimode Dual LC Fiber, 1.25Gb/s SFP Module to 10/100/1000Base-Tx Fiber Media Converter with a SFP 1000Base-SX Module（850nm, 550m） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBSZJL3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_38dEDbGF2K7W0

There are many adapters like this, you want to make sure you get an SFP media converter with 1 sfp port and 1 electrical Ethernet port. Relatively cheap.

If it comes with an SFP just get the fiber that fits that SFP. Multimode LC-UCP is what it this one uses. That’s a good fiber for this kind of run.

It is not going to survive on the surface level. No cabling will. It will be plagued by rat chews, weathering, etc etc. it will need to be buried in conduit to survive.

I'd probably use a pair of small ESP8266 boards on WiFi for this purpose, like these:

https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Internet-Development-Wireless-Micropython/dp/B010N1SPRK/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=esp8266&qid=1567788335&s=gateway&sr=8-17

Small enough that you can just double stick tape the module inside the case, rather than putting in an SSD caddy. This gives you better options when placing it near the motherboard connections you'll connect it to.

You could set up the one inside the PC in AP mode, then have the other one connect to it as a client so that they have their own WiFi network.

This could also give you the ability to perform the same functions through a web page on your phone on the same hardware with not much more effort.

I really doubt that latency would be much of a factor in this application. No slower than controlling a typical Smart LED light bulb over WiFi, for instance, since they're probably using an ESP8266 to do it, anyway!

you get SFP NICs where you can and use these for the onboard 10GbaseT transceivers or longer runs on existing cable.

RJ45 switches aren’t coming down very quickly and the power requirements are very high. Best option at the moment is QNAP’s 12 porter. It’s SFP and another 8 ports that you can choose individually between SFP and RJ45, for about $550.

You need a media converter like this one: https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-MC220L-Converter-supporting-mountable/dp/B003CFATL0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=TP-Link+MC220L&qid=1556187347&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

My setup is: Bell fiber -> Media Converter -> PFsense . By removing the HH3K, I did loose on download speed a bit (about 80 Mbps of my gigagit) but retained my upload speed at 750 MBps.

​

Hope this will help.

Yeah. You'll probably have to hack the controllers then. You could also check out the ESP8266, they're pretty sleek, and cheap: https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1487616893&sr=8-3&keywords=esp8266

Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!

Here are your smile-ified links:

this one.

---

^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot

There is no effective way of doing that with the HH3k. It's just a basic residential gateway.

You can get the same card off of Ebay like I did for $60-$90. I bought the DA2.

Previous to that I used a media converter to bypass the HH3000.

But you are still stuck 1gbps.


TP-Link MC220L Gigabit Media Converter, 1000Mbps RJ45 to 1000Mbps SFP Slot Supporting MiniGBIC modules, Chassis mountable https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003CFATL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zEmsDb74KKVGJ

If you are looking at making a custom driver for an SFP+ NIC you need to get specific cards. Read here for more info. https://www.dslreports.com/forum/r32230041-Internet-Bypassing-the-HH3K-up-to-2-5Gbps-using-a-BCM57810S-NIC~start=360#end

I'm tempted to get the Ubiquiti US16XG($800) or wait until Bell rolls out 5gbps service and upgrade their ONT to SFP+.

No, the ER-4 will only fit a certain way and it is not flippable to the other side. I recommend using DAC cables for short jumps. That's what you see from eth4 to the 16 port POE switch. It is a 1 meter DAC cable

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LSGGUOY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If they provide you an SFP/SFP+ plug they've probably whitelisted it on their end.

You can get this: https://www.amazon.com/Converter-SFP-Transceiver-550M-ipolex/dp/B0716XT1QT/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=sfp+to+rj45&qid=1558976154&s=electronics&sr=1-8

and convert that to a 1gb copper cable if you already have your own router. If not, getting one with an SFP port would be your best bet.

It will work, but you will be using double nat, which is never ideal.

Without knowing what your bandwidth is, and not having tested this for speed, consider using a media converter something like this https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-MC220L-Converter-supporting-mountable/dp/B003CFATL0/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=media+converter&qid=1556988645&s=gateway&sr=8-3 (I am NOT endorsing this particular product just putting it out there as an example) and then using the RBK50 and losing the HH3000 all together.

For me, in Ontario, I need to set up a VLAN on the WAN side (35). If you use Bell provided TV or Voice phone from the HH3000 then it becomes very non trivial.

There is some interesting information over at DSL Reports http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r31118482-Yes-you-CAN-bypass-the-HomeHub-3000 it's a long ass thread but there is lots of good information. I think that Atlantic Canada does not use the same authentication, but they will know more over there.

If you want to do that you have to take the SFP out of the HH3000 which seems scary at first but if you have good fingernails or a jewelers screwdriver there's a little tab that you have to shift a bit to get the SFP transceiver out of the connector.

There has been limited success with this on speeds > 1Gb, so once again it vary's depending on your speed and expectations.

Amazon has plenty with free same day delivery if you're in a pinch.


https://www.amazon.com/10GBASE-T-Transceiver-Copper-Compatible-SFP-10G-T-S/dp/B06XQBFHNL

As others have stated, use fiber. cat5 is hard to ground, it's unsafe, and it's against building code in many places. At work we just connected up our new shop to the old one using fiber and it was way cheaper than I thought it was going to be.

We used these media converters with this SFP to convert Gb ethernet to multimode fiber. we ran conduit out to the new shop for the new cable and blew twine through the conduit to get a near exact length for the fiber run. we bought a 310 foot custom, pre-terminated cable with a pulling eye on it from Fiber Cables Direct. Pulling it was easy (use lube!) ans painless.

Sure. Here are links to an example of all the components you need on Amazon.

Run fiber optic cable through some Innnerduct between houses. Install a multi-mode SC connector on the fiber ends and connect to a fiber to Ethernet media converters. Connect Ethernet patch cables between the media converter an the ISP router on on end and an Ethernet switch on the other end.


router--->ethernet--->media converter--->fiber run--->media converter--->ethernet--->switch

Don't buy headsets if you want quality products. Especially not Turtle Beach, they're the worst out there.

Looks to me like you're looking for something around $100. Here's what you could have that would best everything at that price range:

Headphones: Sennheiser 518

Microphone: Zalman Mic

Headset buddy to put them together to work on consoles.

Total: $96.50-

If you don't have the funds right now and don't want to wait to get them... well get something as cheap as possible (like these IEM/mic: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005IF3CE8/) and wait until you do have the money to buy the above.

I got mine off amazon. Pretty cheap.

HiLetgo New Version NodeMCU LUA WiFi Internet ESP8266 Development https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_8EMlybP0DHNDQ

Happy to help. HiLetgo PN532 NFC NXP RFID Module... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I1J17LC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share This is the NFC reader. I use these ESP8266: HiLetgo 2pcs ESP8266 NodeMCU LUA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010N1SPRK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share this is the ESPHome config guide. https://esphome.io/components/binary_sensor/pn532.html


It’s straight forward and ESPHome does a fantastic job at abstracting away all the hard parts.


A card read can show up in HomeAsssitant as a binary sensor on. From there it is a script that unlocks my door lock. If your lock integrates with homeassistant you should be able to. Keep in mind that NFC security implemented this way is as secure as your lock code. Except it’s usually a more permanent number combination. And you have written your door combination down on a piece of paper that you fidget about with every time you pull out your wallet. The closer people are, the better they can read your door combo. Except with NFC, you would never know. Always plan in a second factor for better security. Ours will not unlock the locks unless it also detects our Bluetooth is home. That’s another ESPHome boilerplate config.

Yeah, I don't need to change the box. I do need to change the router though. As far as I've been able to tell, it uses an SC connector to connect to the white box. Anything I've been able to find uses 2 connectors vs 1.

Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Converter-Multi-Mode-MC200CM/dp/B003AVRLZI

Thanks. I may grab some SFP+ stuff off of Amazon to try it out with your info on crush resistance.

Lot Of 2 Mellanox Connectx-2 PCI-Epress x 8 10GBe Ethernet Network Server Adapter Interface Card MNPA19-XTR In Bulk Package https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016OYD0D4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BS4FDb316SB36

Total Cable Solutions OM3 10Gb 50/125 Multimode Duplex Fiber Optic Patch Cable, LC to LC (25 Meters) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DP8D7JW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_8S4FDbJABVY4G

10 Gigabit SFP+ LC Multi-mode Transceiver, 10GBASE-SR Module for Cisco SFP-10G-SR, Ubiquiti UF-MM-10G, Mikrotik S+85DLC03D, D-Link, Supermicro, Netgear, TP-Link, Broadcom, Linksys (850nm, DDM, 300m) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U8Q7946/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qT4FDbCXDTHTM

I have a mix of transceivers, but here is one of the brands: https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-SFP-10G-SR-Transceiver-10GBASE-SR-300-meter/dp/B00U8Q7946/ref=sr_1_3?crid=Y3NWC9IXKQ26&keywords=sfp%2B+transceiver&qid=1555660991&s=gateway&sprefix=sfp%2B+tr%2Caps%2C221&sr=8-3

Here is the NIC (this listing is for a lot of 2): https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-SFP-10G-SR-Transceiver-10GBASE-SR-300-meter/dp/B00U8Q7946/ref=sr_1_3?crid=Y3NWC9IXKQ26&keywords=sfp%2B+transceiver&qid=1555660991&s=gateway&sprefix=sfp%2B+tr%2Caps%2C221&sr=8-3

These are not the same listings I bought from (bought my stuff 2 years ago), but they should be the same hardware. As for the X520, it's common for OEMs to take hardware like NICs and put their stamp on it.

What is even better is buying brand new Mikrotik/LB4M/LB6M compatible optics with next day shipping from amazon for less than $20 each. Used these in my LB4m and moved them right over to my crs226-24g-2s+rm.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00U8Q7946/

Question about the NodeMCU board... I bought this recently and am having an annoying hard time figuring out what the integer values for the pins should be. These boards have pins labeled D0-D8 but using those as pin values in my code doesn't seem to do anything (I have a simple LED connected and am merely trying to make it blink to start with).

Is this board similar to what you used and did you have any issues figuring out pin mappings? Maybe I'm doing something else wrong...

Not OP but here's what I bought to get this project going.

• NodeMCU Board (ESP8266)
  
• Load Cells + HX711
  
  I had other electronics project equipment laying around like solder iron, cables, prototype boards, etc. I 3dprinted a holder for the load cells (they need distance between them and the surface they are resting on so that they can flex. STL can be found here.
  
  I'll update in a bit with pictures

The esp8266 is perfect for remote sensors. You're going to want the nodeMCU dev board like this one on Amazon.

You can also get them much cheaper ($4 ) on AliExpress if you're willing to wait 3-4 weeks for them to ship from China.

There are two different firmwares that you can flash them with. NodeMCU is allows you to program it using Lua but MicroPython is also available and uses a subset of Python.

I would highly suggest conduit if you can. Reason being water, and animals. You don't want this dug up. Is it absolutely necessary, no, but highly suggested if you don't want to be replacing it all the time. Plus, if you ever want to upgrade, you have a nice conduit to pull your new fiber through. Here are some decent media converters.

I've had really good luck with these for my Cisco Catalyst and Brocade gear, but never tried one in a Meraki Switch: https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-SFP-10G-SR-Transceiver-10GBASE-SR-300-meter/dp/B00U8Q7946/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1542040616&sr=1-3&keywords=10G+SFP%2B

Bought from Amazon, like $8.79, Prime.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B010O1G1ES

Just got it today, and never had it loaded with anything at this point.

I also just ordered 2 more from this one.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IK9GEQG

You'd think with all the tech out here that it wouldn't be so hard to find stuff like this locally, but it is.

Amazon Prime Now has one they can get to you today but it's SC. Maybe that with an LC-SC adaptor? https://primenow.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATKQ?qid=1500059383&m=A3B16BXEYQLEWZ&ref_=pn_sr_sg_0_img_A3B16BXEYQLEWZ

Maybe an ESP32? Has 16 channel 12 bit PWM hardware, integrated bluetooth and WiFi, programmable with the Arduino framework and software. Can get modules of them for around $5-10 https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Internet-Development-Wireless-Micropython/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=sr_1_10_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1526691682&sr=8-10-spons&keywords=wemos+esp32&psc=1

May also want to look into addressable LEDs like WS2812, has RGB or RGBW LEDs and a PWM controller in a single package with a daisy chained serial interface, can have tens or hundereds of LEDs individually controlled with a single pin from the micro. Also available as standalone controller chips to use with separate LEDs, WS2811.

Okay so I have

Bluetooth USB

Bluetooth arduino module

In my amazon cart. This would be all I need to make a serial connection between my laptop and arduino right?

Depending on your needs, you could get an FTDI adapter instead. I personally like the ESP12e and esp8266 huzzah feather.

LTP: Bell Fibe uses a Standard (but whitelisted) SFP module in the Modem. VLAN 35 is your internet with PPPoE login, VLAN 36 is your IPTV with DHCP.

I took mine out of the modem, shoved it in this thing:

https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-MC220L-Converter-supporting-mountable/dp/B003CFATL0/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1518306025&sr=1-2&keywords=sfp+to+ethernet&dpID=41QXjapF-WL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

And then I configured my EdgeRouter using the following guide

https://community.ubnt.com/t5/EdgeMAX/Edgerouter-Lite-Getting-rid-of-Bell-Canada-s-Homehub2000/td-p/1462027


A few notes. It took about an hour or so to troubleshoot why I wasn't getting TV. My area uses a different Static Route than the posters area did. Basically just use the gateway of whatever VLAN 36 gets as a IP Address as the static route. Haven't had an issue since.
You should be able to set it up in most routers that support VLANS and static routes.

there are easier solutions but since this is DIY I recently put together a circuit using one of these
https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466965785&sr=8-1&keywords=nodemcu+v3

It's programmed via the arduino IDE and is simple enough with a bit of googling for any programmer to get working. I have it connected to one of these
https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-Shield-Module-Arduino-Channel/dp/B00E0NTPP4/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1466965844&sr=8-4&keywords=arduino+relay

3 wires from the nodemcu to the relay. VCC, ground and one of the datapins. Just make sure you use the 5V pin for VCC as the 3.3V ones didn't work.

Then apply power to the relay and he nodemcu. I used an old 5V cellphone charger that I cut the plug off of and direct wired it to the boards. After that I made a short 6" extension cord and split one of the wires. It goes into the relay. After that it just works.

You will need a way to solder the wires and a breadboard lets you test before doing the final wiring.

This is the one we got.

TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet Media Converter, Up to 1000Mbps RJ45 to 1000Mbps SFP Slot Supporting MiniGBIC Modules (MC220L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CFATL0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rqEyCbBVG9VGR

Direct Attach Copper all the way IMO. SFP+ will work with SFP ports just fine.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LSGGUOY/ref=twister_B06XFXVQSD?_encoding=UTF8&th=1

Ubiquiti makes them as well:

https://store.ubnt.com/collections/accessories/products/unifi-direct-attach-copper-cable-10-gbps-1-meter

This is the hardware I used.. The Arduino IDE is here

A nice guide on how to program the ESP8266 chip with the IDE.

IMO you're best off just getting a wireless bridge - if you want to go all posh and name-brand then there's a 4-port Linksys for $50 on Amazon, but I'm seeing no-name single-port port ones for half that, or less, on eBay.

EDIT: in fact, here is a semi-reputable brand 4-port for $25 from Amazon.

If you're just doing a short connection, consider Twinax Direct Attach Cables (DAC) -- usually around $30-$50 apiece and all one piece, no separate fiber + transceivers. Also look at 10gtek as a manufacturer. You can find them in Amazon and they have compatible versions of basically every item for pretty much any manufacturer, for very, very cheap. Examples:

http://www.amazon.com/10Gtek%C2%AE-1-Meter-10GBASE-CU-Passive-SFP-H10GB-CU1M/dp/B00WHS3NCA

If you are looking to protect yourself from a surge coming down a COAX line into your house/apartment. Go from RJ45 to fiber and back again, plus doesn't cost an arm and a leg.

I purchased this item: http://www.amazon.com/MC220L-Converter-1000Mbps-supporting-mountable/dp/B003CFATL0/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1465059972&sr=1-1&keywords=TP-LINK+MC220L
Along with two SFP modules and a 1m cable to connect them as my HP 24 port switch has 2 SFP spots on it.

It goes modem (ISPs) --> TP Link convertor --> 1m fiber --> SFP switch --> rj45 switch --> firewall.

Sure! http://smile.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

StarTech.com PCI Express Gigabit Ethernet Fiber Network Card w/Open SFP - PCIe GbE SFP Network Card Adapter NIC - Fiber Optic SFP Adapter (PEX1000SFP2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LPRRJFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iGT3DbXJAA01G


And something like this, depending on what type of fiber termination you use.

TRENDnet Gigabit SFP LC Module, TEG-MGBSX, Multi-Mode, Mini-GBIC, Up to 550 M (1800 ft), Compatible w/Standard SFP Slots, Hot Pluggable, Compliant w/IEEE 802.3z Gigabit Ethernet, Lifetime Protection https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009JR5SM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9GT3Db4459ENE

im using this one http://www.amazon.com/Arduino-Wireless-Bluetooth-Transceiver-Module/dp/B0093XAV4U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1394605278&sr=8-1&keywords=arduino+bluetooth with my arduino and i got sample code on github if ud like.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.de/Cisco-kompatibel-SFP-10G-SR-SFP-10G-SR-SR-S-Multimode-Transceiver/dp/B00U8Q7946/

You need two of these on each end, this model uses SFP, check to make sure you order the correct converter


Gigabit Ethernet Media Converter, Multimode Dual LC Fiber, 1.25Gb/s SFP Module to 10/100/1000Base-Tx Fiber Media Converter with a SFP 1000Base-SX Module（850nm, 550m） https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XBSZJL3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1IW2DbTX141W1

Not really... switch / gbic module / fiber (very superficial amazon search)

Here is the Media converter you need

In some reviews on this page , people mention "VLAN 37" on the fibre side. The other side ends up being ethernet to your router.

Again, you need your PPPoe credentisls from Bell.

When you're calling them for it...don't tell them what you're doing. Tell them you're putting a secondary router downstream from the home hub 3000.'

Also; Don't be a dumbass. If your internet goes down and you need to troubleshoot...or a bell tech is visiting your home and they need to troubleshoot ...recconect your home hub 3000. They're obviously not going to support you if you're doing your own thing.

They are: HiLetgo 2pcs ESP8266 NodeMCU LUA CP2102 ESP-12E

This is the amazon link. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010N1SPRK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You'll need one of these https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495988236&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=ESP+duino

It's a wifi enabled Arduino which you can curl http requests to coinmarketcaps api or any other site to get the ticker value of ETH


I couldn't find the exact display listed here but you should be able to use the digital I/O do drive this https://www.amazon.com/Diymall-Serial-128x64-Display-Arduino/dp/B01HHOETIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495988337&sr=8-1&keywords=arduino+mini+display

There are loads of tutorials floating around for arduinos and the display will likely have a public module avail. You can of course use any display.

Nice! Now do it very low power using an arudino! An ESP8266 can connect to a lot of IOT services and can practically run on a battery for months if you code it right. https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500735601&sr=1-3&keywords=esp8266

I would bury fiber in that PEX tube of yours.

When you're using something galvanic (like cat5/cat6) to connect two different buildings with two different grounds, you have the potential (heh) to run into trouble with something called a ground loop. I'm not sure I currently have the eloquence to explain it, but best case it would reduce your reliability, worst case it'll cause a fire. This is why national fire code requires sub panels to be grounded to the main panel, NOT to its own ground rod.

Fiber optics don't carry electricity, just pulses of light, so this isn't a concern.

As far as what to get, at 125ft, you can just get a 60M multimode fiber patch cable to run through the PEX like this one: https://www.amazon.com/FiberCablesDirect-Multimode-196-85ft-0-5M-300M-100gbase/dp/B01I2EJO98
...and on each end get a multimode gigabit converter like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Converter-SFP-Transceiver-550M-ipolex/dp/B0716XT1QT

The important bit is both transceivers should have the same wavelength (850nm, in this case), the same speed (gigabit), and a connector type that matches the fiber patch cable (LC).

Other words you'll see...
Core size (62.5/125 vs 50/125) doesn't matter if you're just using one cable (but 50/125 is newer/better).
OM1/OM2/OM3/etc... doesn't matter at 1gbit, but bigger numbers will give you future potential of 100gbit... which you will never ever need.
Plenum is the cladding type. When a plenum cable burns it doesn't outgas harmful chemicals.
Duplex means two fibers next to each other, one send one receive. You want this.

Why not wireless? Because this is cheaper and 10x more reliable.

I've built a few of these using this version of the DHT22 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014SMNBJC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's more expensive because it comes with the resistors and everything already built in, no need for a breadboard.

I've built a few different versions of this, some using the Pi. The Pi is definitely overkill but if you have a B+ laying around then it's no cost to you and you may as well use it. If you want to get something smaller that also works, I am currently running mine off of these NodeMCU ESP8266 boards.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010O1G1ES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are the Beta. When I reviewed them and added them to the guide, there was another Beta which have been discontinued. I wouldn't buy the Beta for $30 (even though they're worth at least $50) only because they go on sale for $13 regularly.

I'm finally purchasing some Monoprice 8320 though to see what the deal is, will be back in a month or so with a full review.

bluetooth for what kind of control?

i'm not sure what the exact uses would be of integrating an esp8266 in a light would be, but battery life notifications on my phone when my edc light is low would be cool, and is the first thing that comes to mind

others could be remotely activating your light if lost in a dark room/place, schedules for default modes (always go to moonlight between 2-5AM, for example)

the aux led could glow green/red when you get certain notifications (or with wifi status), step counter/fitbit features would be easy (for those that carry their light on-person)

i'm getting some wacky ideas gonna stop here

you're gonna need this

10G SFP+ DAC Cable - 10GBASE-CU Passive Direct Attach Copper Twinax SFP Cable for Cisco SFP-H10GB-CU2M, Ubiquiti, D-Link, Supermicro, Netgear, Mikrotik, ZTE Devices, 2m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U8BL09Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_siALBbTECFXE9


or this



U Fiber Multi-Mode SFP 10G https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0XR1RL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ojALBbBS4KNGT

10G SFP+ DAC Cable - 10GBASE-CU Passive Direct Attach Copper Twinax SFP Cable for Cisco SFP-H10GB-CU1M, Ubiquiti, D-Link, Supermicro, Netgear, Mikrotik, Open Switch Devices, 1m https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WHS3NCA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kA5wDb9AKVB5X

I have one of these and it works fine. Just select the Ubiquiti option and then whatever length. I am using it between an 8 port POE and my 16-XG. You have to select 1Gb on each end, same as with optical SFPs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WHS3NCA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&th=1

I did a quick search on amazon and found this: https://www.amazon.com/TRENDnet-4-Port-Gigabit-Switch-TEG-S51SFP/dp/B019IHWSF0/

Or this (converts SFP to ethernet - basically a 1 port switch): https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Converter-Supporting-MC220L/dp/B003CFATL0

I just used the screen listed above, and this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010N1SPRK. The animations, and graphical assets were stored in memory using this method: http://www.rinkydinkelectronics.com/t\_imageconverter565.php

>So I've been trying to ask whether this means that they won't put the cable modem in one room, and the HD DVR in a different room. If this is the case, then the installation offer won't solve my needs. I have a hardwired network printer that requires that it be physically plugged in to the Ethernet hub, and this is in a different room than the TV.

You just need to buy a wireless bridge, and place it near whatever devices need to be physically plugged in. The bridge will communicate with your modem/router (wirelessly) and allow whatever is connected to it to communicate with the interent.

This is an example of a bridge.

There's a thread on DSL Reports discussing all this: https://www.dslreports.com/forum/r31118482-Yes-you-CAN-bypass-the-HomeHub-3000

Most people there are using these: https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-MC220L-Converter-supporting-mountable/dp/B003CFATL0

One guy put it in his 10Gbit switch: https://www.dslreports.com/forum/r31908145- and it synced at 2.5Gbit

With a 1Gbps switch there's no issue as it won't send more than 1.25Gbit (1Gbit after 8b/10b encoding is 1.25Gbit). What I would like to know is what happens in the 10Gbps switch case. Will it try sending at 2.5Gbps? Does the SFP ONT do some kind of flow control? I need to do more research.

Just bought supplies last night to implement this.

TP Link MC220L + SFP + fiber cable + Intel 1000 MF card.

I think everything together was around $80. Fiber NIC is compatible with pfSense. I found a Dell OEM card for $20 on eBay. Card shouldn't be a fake Intel.

I bought the multimode fiber SFP so both that and NIC have LC connections.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003CFATL0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1465823649&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=mc220l&dpPl=1&dpID=41QXjapF-WL&ref=plSrch

http://m.ebay.com/itm/201577163022

On a related note, are these components compatible?

• Multimode Duplex Fiber Optic Cable (62.5/125) - LC to LC
  
• TP-LINK MC220L Gigabit Media Converter
  
• Extreme Networks Summit X450e-48T which has a SFP (mini-GBIC) connector
  
• 2x GENUINE CISCO GLC-SX-MM
  
  I am not sure if all three bits will talk to each other.
  
  Thank you.
  
  edit: add the SFP I had in my shopping cart, but did not originally list

Definitely go fiber between structures to keep them electrically isolated. If your switches have SFP ports, you can eBay the modules for a couple bucks each. Otherwise a media converter for 1Gbe costs under $30, plus the SFP.

http://www.amazon.com/MC220L-Converter-1000Mbps-supporting-mountable/dp/B003CFATL0

Monoprice has 50m LC/LC cables for $50. On eBay you can find 100m cables for not much more. With pre-terminated cables you don't need any special tools or expertise, just be careful of extreme bends.

http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10237&cs_id=1023704&p_id=11809&seq=1&format=2

Options:

• Burial rated CAT5e with lightning arrestors, probably around $350 in materials. Budget for a new set of switches every year :P
  
  
• Fiber, by the time you add the cost of the arrestors and the wire, it's fairly close in pricing.
  
  http://www.discount-low-voltage.com/Cable/OM1-62-5-Preterminated-Fiber-Cables/PT6SC11R
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Fiber-Patch-Panel-Multimode-loaded/dp/B001B1DVE4
  
  http://www.amazon.com/MC200CM-Converter-1000Mbps-multi-mode-mountable/dp/B003AVRLZI/ref=pd_sim_sbs_pc_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=15EQS9BCRPF67R7JSMSV
  
  http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10237&cs_id=1023703&p_id=2611&seq=1&format=2
  
  
• Wireless bridge-- a pair of Nanostation Loco M5's will push close to 100mb/s full-duplex. Super reliable, I have uptimes of multiple years on these units, I have full monitoring and never any issues even at thousands of feet of range. At 150 feet it should be very hard to get it wrong. Probably cheapest at around $160 total.
  
  http://www.amazon.com/Ubiquiti-US-FCC-NSLOCOM5-NanoStation-loco/dp/B004EHSV4W
  

Don't know if this counts as "good" but I put together a nodemcu and an RF receiver that transmits the codes over MQTT to my raspberry pi. NodeMCU ~$9 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3t7.zbNNKST99 and RF receiver ~$7 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M2CUALS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bx7.zbPBPEM90

Just noticed you said 345mhz... these receivers are made for 433mhz but you might be able to find a similar one for 345mhz?

Let me know if you want any more details.

If you're willing to fire up the Arduino IDE, you could use just about any ESP8266 product to do this. Here's a NodeMCU board I've been using for projects for less than $10. It's been easier to work with than I expected.

Absolutely.

This are the Arduino modules I'm using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010N1SPRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ZIGvCbDVXRRNP
But if you want to write the data to a CSV you will need to use a Raspberry Pi module. You will need dupont wires to go along with this. Look for female to female wires. (But the sensor below comes with wires)

Use the dht22 sensor found here https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073F472JL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lLGvCbR9G2PT5

Then follow this guide
https://www.losant.com/blog/getting-started-with-the-esp8266-and-dht22-sensor

I don't know what type of communication channel you're using (Z-Wave, Zigbee, RF, etc.) but I use a simple magnetic reed sensor wired to a NodeMCU board. Wifi boards suck down electricity though so my setup has to be mains powered (batteries only last a week or two).

If you want battery powered, look into Z-Wave/Zigbee door sensors; they're more expensive but look nice and can run on battery.

If you are not looking to use an arduino shield and don't need a ton of io pins, you can use a nodemcu it is technically an esp8266 that can be programmed via the arduino use.

I've bought several of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010N1SPRK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OhYTBbV2X57A5

They run my drawing machine, my action camera controller, my plant moisture sensor, my 3d printer accessory, and half a dozen other goofing off projects.

Even if you don't want to use Wi-Fi...out is hard to beat the price.

There are a couple extra steps to use the first one... But it is well documented on the internet.

In fairness there are some cons too:
Limited pins and some pins are not accessible
They take up a lot of room on a breadboard
They are 3.3v (not really a conversation, unless you are trying to work with something that is 5v)

If you know you want to be battery operated, there are some with built in lipo circuits (I have one with a tiny LCD and a lipo charger that cost about $12)

With regards to the 500ft distance, him wanting bulletproof. Go look at fiber. You can get some gigabit fiber bridges for a few hundred bucks.

Example:
TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet Media Converter, 1000Mbps RJ45 to 1000M Multi-Mode SC Fiber (MC200CM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AVRLZI/

TP-Link Gigabit Ethernet Media Converter, 1000Mbps RJ45 to 1000M Multi-Mode SC Fiber (MC200CM) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AVRLZI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_uC7RDb98XQ22G

Two of those can also do the job.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AVRLZI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.hi3DbQDW4R5F

Do you think maybe with one of these guys?
http://www.amazon.com/MC200CM-Converter-1000Mbps-multi-mode-mountable/dp/B003AVRLZI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1453321919&sr=1-1&keywords=fiber+to+ethernet

What about something that can take that optical cable in and convert it to gigabit ethernet - and using an ethernet to thunderbolt adapter - i do already own the ethernet adapter.

Edit: I might use the mono headphone jack suggestion - that went over my head. i didn't realize i could send audio in with the TRRS connector - most stuff I was seeing was that the audio in was gone on the new Retina's.

Or fibre transceivers

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00U8Q7946/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_RG1GDbNGE3Q9A

It is a 10 Gigabit Fiber switch. I assume that's what's throwing you off. In each port, instead of a standard copper Ethernet cable, you install Fiber SFP Transceiver modules and connect to other devices using fiber patch cables.

10 Gigabit SFP+ LC Multi-Mode Transceiver, 10GBASE-SR Module for Cisco SFP-10G-SR, Meraki MA-SFP-10GB-SR, Ubiquiti UF-MM-10G, Mikrotik, D-Link, Supermicro, (850nm, DDM, 300m) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U8Q7946/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_fDi3Db0N3SF3M

here you go
5v power supply
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076V9PMSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

stepper drivers
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016ZJS1FA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

nodemcu
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010N1SPRK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

wire
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MS39GEH/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

enclosure
https://www.jaycar.co.nz/large-abs-ip66-enclosure/p/HB6404

cable glands
https://www.jaycar.co.nz/ip68-nickel-plated-copper-cable-glands-3-to-6-5mm-pack-of-2/p/HP0744

stepper motors
https://www.omc-stepperonline.com/nema-17-stepper-motor-bipolar-l33mm-w-gear-raio-51-planetary-gearbox-17hs13-0404s-pg5.html

blinds
https://www.bunnings.co.nz/windoware-180-x-210cm-black-glamour-indoor-blockout-roller-blind_p01261013

3d printed parts using ender 3 pro

raspberry pi 3 running home assistant

NodeMCU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010N1SPRK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Correct...typo, ws2812b.

LEDs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BGSZLGX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

NodeMCU:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010N1SPRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Diffuser:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M09PBYX/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2A power adapter (x2):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0777HWN87/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I don't have any links. I combined multiple sketches to get it to do what I needed. I used a NodeMCU chip (~$8 on amazon) and a cheap 5 pack of PIR sensors

From there I looked up how to connect an esp8266 to wifi, how to publish to mqtt, and how to determine if a pir sensor senses motion.

Combined all that into a working sketch. If I could pull this together, you can too!

It is one of these guys, which can be had cheaper from the slow boat from china (ebay) https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Internet-Development-Wireless-Micropython/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1506648104&sr=8-3&keywords=nodemcu


This power buck: http://www.ebay.com/itm/AC-DC-Power-Supply-Buck-Converter-Step-Down-Module-5V-2A-2000mA-/252300684867?hash=item3abe4aee43

1ch relay with opto: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-4-6-8-Channel-5V-Relay-Board-Module-Optocoupler-LED-for-Arduino-PiC-ARM-AVR-/172433598201?var=&hash=item0

This temperature probe http://www.ebay.com/itm/1pc-3M-Waterproof-Digital-Temperature-Temp-Sensor-Probe-DS18b20-/371673478354?hash=item56897734d2:g:HZkAAOSwqBJXUSWw

Code is here: https://github.com/crosma/sousduino

Its a vMicro project: http://www.visualmicro.com/page/User-Guide.aspx?doc=Visual-Micro-Menu.html

what about using a NodeMCU to control a dual relay board?

i cover this in my jailbreak the ps4 for dummies post above yours here is the usb hd and usb wifi development board i am using:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZTRXFBA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010O1G1ES/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's by hiletgo

Here is the controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010O1G1ES

This is way way cheaper than that arduino shield.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010O1G1ES/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

You can connect up to 5 of them within their own network, with one as a server, or connect them to a router wifi connection. You just add it as a board in Arduino.

I bought this one for my Mellanox connectx 2 & 3 cards with the intention of eventually getting the Mikrotik CRS305-1G-4S+IN.
This one states it is comparable with both Mellanox and Mikrotik.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D8BJBM0/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

The 10Gtek specifically for Mikrotik says it is NOT comparable with Mellanox...
So, your mileage may vary.... Let us know what works in both ..

https://www.amazon.com/10Gtek-SFP-H10GB-CU1M-10GBASE-CU-Passive-1-Meter/dp/B01LSGGUOY/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1484091196&sr=8-3&keywords=sfp%2Bcable&th=1

I'm going to do the same. Are you going to use a specific source code or are you going to write it yourself?

Edit:
Don't really want wait three weeks, so I'm ordering these.
https://www.amazon.com/HiLetgo-Version-NodeMCU-Internet-Development/dp/B010O1G1ES/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FDPO9B8/

Haven't really read yet what kind of output the sensors have yet, but I assume it's just the sensitivity, and a boolean for movement. I'll just write a little script that does a HTTP call to my node on movement.

The shades are probably over built, after the first set of steppers I tried didn't have enough torque I just said screw out and bought planetary geared steppers, which are a bit pricey.


Nema 17 Geared Stepper Motor Gear Ratio 5:1 3D Printer Extruder Motor DIY CNC Robotics https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QA5WSDG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yFTKzbHPVBPDE


SMAKN® TB6600 Upgraded Version 32 Segments 4A 40V 57/86 Stepper Motor Driver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016ZJS1FA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_uGTKzbJ5XCMGK


HiLetgo New Version NodeMCU LUA WiFi Internet ESP8266 Development https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010O1G1ES/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9GTKzbEZ1TQSP


Outdoor Roller Sun Shade, 6-Feet by 6-Feet, Cabo Sand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AU5O2G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lITKzbW1VKMNA



Here's the post for the pool control stuff:
https://www.reddit.com/r/DIY/comments/6efion/i_built_a_cell_phone_pool_controller_interface/


http://imgur.com/a/qvrCE