(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best dog bowls & dishes

I rescued a german shepherd mix when he was about 2 months old and he just turned 2 years! He's awesome!

Join /r/dogs for great community, support, and advice.

Here are some of my dog's favorites if you're lost on what to Wishlist on Amazon:

• Hands down the best ball for fetch, if he likes fetch
  
• And the launcher I like this one b/c you can just throw it in a backpack and it'll zip all the way closed (I like to keep a backpack w/ my dog's park toys, some treats, poop bags, wet ones/purell, and his shot records) The best thing about the chuck-it is that you don't have to pick up a slobbery ball.
  
• Three very good chew bones
  
• Advantage Multi if you're not often taking him onto tick-heavy hikes. If you need tick control, get Frontline and Interceptor for heartworm.
  
• The best dog frisbee and I've tried a half dozen. Doesn't fly the best, but it's the most durable, safe, and flies great with a little practice.
  
• This Car seat cover is great
  
• Flexi leash is really handy when used appropriately.
  
• Poo bags can never have enough of. and you go through them pretty quick.
  
• Dog backpack great for burning off energy on walks/hikes, and makes them feel like they're doing an important job! I have this one in black. works great.
  
• Collapsible water bowl handy for hikes/camping/outings
  
• european style leather lead (leash) I'm preferential to the feel of leather for leashes/collars. And the european is absolutely the best - adjustable length and super easy to tether them to a pole/fence if you're eating outdoors or running into a store or something (of course use common sense when doing this!)
  
• Harness I'm not a fan of harnesses - they're annoying to put on/take off and just encourage a dog to pull more. But if you want him to pull, towing you on a skateboard or something (my dog loves this) then it's great
  Furminator GSD mixes don't need regular brushing, but this one works great for shedding season
  Dremel for nail trimming GSD = black nails, a bit trickier to trim. I use this with lots of treats to put a nice round edge and take off a bit of length of my dog's nails. works good but get him accustomed to it slowly and with lots of treats. Pretty soon he won't mind.
  *Zukes are great treats for training
  
• Bowls that don't tip over. Easy to wash. can't break. My pick.
  
• Big crate I use for vacations when I bring my dog but need to leave him in a hotel room or something. It's big and bulky but I like to give him room to move around comfortably.
  
• A good shampoo I like hydrosurge unscented but it's not on Amazon =\
  
• deodorizer I give my dog a little spritz between baths if he starts to get funky
  
• A shower head like this makes bathing super painless. I just bring my dog in the shower w/ me along with some treats and it's quick and easy.
  
• a scrubber like this gets my dog cleaner than I can with my hands. I found one at petco I like
  
  
  Wow I kind of didn't realize I have so much shit for my dog. But he's family so...anyway. Also costco has great beds for $20ish (comparably $80+ from a petstore) They also carry Frontline, lots of treats (buscuits, duck breast jerkey - the best!) good food (Iams ProActive goes on sale once in a while, and they also carry Natures Domain salmon/sweet potato food that's really good).

I totally agree with TheCatGuardian's post. We just adopted our first cat from a shelter and he is 8 months old, and honestly he's still a bit of a handful at times (but that should be expected with any new pet). Try to get one over a year, if not closer to 2 years, as ours is still learning how to play nice and not nipping our ankles to get attention. My husband has always had cats, but this was my first pet and we adopted because I've always wanted one. I did a ton of research and here's what I would suggest as far as supplies:

A high sided litter box with rim - to keep them from kicking litter around and the high walls help keep everything inside. I didn't waste the money on litter liners. They seem gimmicky to me.

Pooper Scooper - It's cheap and gets the job done. Nothing else needs to be said about it.

Stainless Steel Bowl(s) - This one gets good reviews and is the perfect size for their food. You can get two, one for wet and one for dry food. Though I got this one for dry and got a cute oval dish at walmart for ~$2 for his wet. Whatever you want.

Slightly larger bowl for water - Make sure they have plenty for fresh water. I give him new water in the AM and evening after work. I know a lot of people rave about water fountains...but honestly I didn't want to spend the money initially, and my kitty seems to be perfectly fine drinking from the bowl. It'd be worth it to see how your cat feels about the bowl...esp since they will be drinking from bowls at the shelter...they shouldn't be too picky. You can spoil them later on if you decide to, but definitely not necessary.

A safety collar - Make sure it is either a break-away or elastic to ensure the cat doesn't get strangled if it climbs and gets stuck on something and is hanging by its neck. I liked this one because it didn't have an annoying bell, though some like the bell to let you find your cat in the house. The collar also ensure that if the cat gets out anyone who finds him will know he belongs to someone and isn't just a feral cat that they can take for themselves.

Scratching Board - Simple and good reviews. Seems like it will last. You can also get one or two cardboard cheaper ones and see what they prefer to scratch on. My cat doesn't really scratch that much...he uses the scratching posts that are part of his cat tree.

Cat Perch - This is the one we got so he can look out the window. It seems like a good balance of expense and functionality...especially at first. The cat might not even like jumping up on things, so at least this is a safe buy since it's not that tall but still lets them get up off the floor.

Cat bed - This one is highly reviewed and really durable. It's machine washable and will last forever. I really love this bed.

Simple toys at first: Wand Toy, Jingle Balls, Ball Circle Thing, Little Catnip Critter. He also likes paper bags, toilet paper rolls, and his laser pointer. I highly recommend the laser pointer...ours is green.

Greenies Treats

As far as food, you want to ask what they feed at the shelter and get a bag of that at first even if you read online that it isn't "the best." We wanted to get our cat on a mainly wet food diet, so we left his shelter dry food out at night, and gave him half a can of wet food in the morning before work, and half a can at night beofre bed ~9PM, and took the dry food away while the wet food was out. We feed him Friskies Pate...it's actually pretty good for the price. People will get passionate about cat food. Honestly Friskies is fine for us now...they sell it in bulk at Sam's.

Litter - you want to use the kind they use at the shelter so they have comfort in that. You can switch later if you want.

You might also want to get nail clippers and a brush. Our cat is long haired and I like using a comb, but it's really up to you.

As far as gimmicks I would assume that if it seems like a luxury it probably isn't necessary. Cats are very happy with simple things. The vitals are what I listed...a bathroom, food and water (bowls), a few toys, somewhere to scratch, somewhere to get up off the floor, and a safety collar. The bed isn't absolutely vital, but it's nice for them to have somewhere that they feel secure and happy...even if they don't use it at first.

We don't live in Colorado (yet, we actually just started to apply for jobs out there and hope to move to the Denver-area later this year. We've already mapped out the drive and done some brainstorming about where we'll stay on the road since from where we live (Pittsburgh), it's about a 24 hour drive, so let me know if you need any help on the research we've done on that), but do camp (in OH, PA, and MD), hike, and road trip with our 1.5 year old Golden Retriever pretty frequently when the weather is warm. I'll discuss what we have for our dog's set ups.

Road Trips

• Car Harness (we use the Ruffwear Loadup) to help keep him safe in the car and to keep him in the backseat
  
• Car Seat Cover to protect your car
  
• Cleanup Supplies just in case your dog gets sick (my policy if that if you have them, you probably won't need them. But that one time you don't have them is when you'll probably need them). We keep a bottle of Nature's Miracle and paper towels in the trunk.
  
• Something to carry your dog's kibble in. We use the Ruffwear Kibble Kaddie
  
• Travel Dog Bowls. We really like these Doggie Bento Bowls for travel, since they're sturdy and the top one is keeps water in without leaking.
  
• Treats
  
• Crate for the hotel room/wherever you'll be staying on the road if your dog is crate trained.
  
• Leash and poop bags for when you take your dog out to potty at various rest stops, etc.
  
• Toys for when you get to your destination/your nightly lodging
  
• A bag to put everything in. We just use a folding duffle we've had lying around the house for a while.
  
• Collar with vaccination tags, as well as a tag with your home address (if it's a short trip) or the address of where you will be staying (if it's a longer trip)
  
• Doggie First Aid Kit (include items such as disinfectant, hydrogen peroxide (can be used to clean wounds or induce vomiting), vet wrap, gauze pads, activated charcoal, tick key, thermometer, ace wrap, scissors, tweezers, styptic powder, etc.)
  
  Camping
  
  
• Tie-out stake and tie-out line for the campsite. It's extremely useful not having to hold your dog's leash constantly while you're setting up camp, starting fires, collecting wood, etc.
  
• Something for your dog to sleep on (optional). We use the Ruffwear Highlands Sleeping Bag and the Ruffwear Highlands Sleeping Pad (we got both for over half off at L.L. Bean). Summit usually ends up ditching the sleeping bag and trying to climb into ours and cuddle though. The sleeping pad is really nice to have since we can easily move it to near the fire so he has a nice place to lay.
  
• Toys you don't mind getting dirty. We especially like light up and glow in the dark toys for at night around the campsite since we can actually find them once it starts to get dark.
  
• Food and some way to store it (we generally use the Ruffwear Kibble Kaddie for this too and store it in either the car or a bear box when it's not being used).
  
• Travel Bowls. For camping we tend to use the Ruffwear Quencher Cinch for food.
  
• Water and bowl (we use a Nalgene Bottle with a [Pupwerks PupCup](http://www.pupwerks.com/shop/the-original-pupcup, which when not in use, fits snugly on the bottom of the water bottle)).
  
• Treats
  
• Leash and poop bags
  
• Doggie First Aid Kit
  
• Light-up Dog Necklace to make your dog easier to see at night
  
  Hiking
  
  
• Harness/backpack. Summit has the Ruffwear Palisades Pack for hiking, but so far has only used the removable harness from it and not the pack (we didn't want him carrying the pack last summer while he was still growing and can't wait to try this summer).
  
  
• Leash and poop bags. We really like the Chaco Dog Leash since it has a buckle to allow us to clip him to different places, and you can adjust the leash to clip it around yourself to walk hands-free if needed.
  
  
• Longline or Flexi-leash (controversial, we personally hate flexi-leashes EXCEPT if we're hiking in an area where there are not many people/dogs nearby. I would not recommend it unless your dog has excellent recall in addition to the flexi). This allows your dog to wander a little farther away from you and sniff and explore on his own a little bit.
  
• Water and bowl (we use the Nalgene with the Pupwerks PupCup again for hiking)
  
• Treats
  
• Doggie First Aid Kit, especially if it's a longer or overnight hike
  
  Additionally, for camping, I'd strongly recommend doing some camping training in your home before taking your dog camping for real. We set our tent up in our living room and slept in it at home a couple of times with our dog just to let him get a feel for what things would be like before we went outside camping for the first time. Lots of treats were involved to show him that being calm in the tent was a good thing. Also start small. The first time we took our dog camping was at a campsite in Ohio about 20 minutes from our parents' house. We made sure it was just one night and that we had an easy-out in case Summit wasn't ready and started to freak out or disrupt the other people camping. Everything went perfectly but if Summit hadn't been having a good time, we could have quickly packed up and left and slept at either of our parents' houses where he would have felt more comfortable.
  
  In terms of hiking, also start small. Start with shorter, easier hikes that take maybe 30-60 minutes. Then work up to longer, steeper, more challenging hikes.
  
  Finally, for road tripping, especially in places that you don't know as well, I strongly recommend taking a look at bringfido.com and dogfriendly.com. These websites will allow you to easily look up different dog-friendly establishments (such as restaurants, hotels, parks, activities, etc.) in the areas that you are traveling.
  

Getting her to leave things you don't want hear near or don't want her eating: teach her "leave it:"

• Make sure you have two different types of treats. One type can be fairly boring to the dog, but the other type should be a high-value treat that he finds pretty delicious. You will also want to make sure that the treats are broken up into pea-sized pieces so it won’t take him too long to eat them.
  
• Put one type of treat in each hand. If you like to train with a clicker as your marker, you can also hold a clicker in the same hand that holds the high-value treat. Then, place both of your hands behind your back.
  
• Make a fist with the hand that is holding the treat of lower value and present your fist to your dog, letting him sniff.
  
• Say “leave it” when he finishes sniffing your fist. Make sure to say it only once.
  
• As soon as your dog is done sniffing, you can either click with the clicker or say “yes.” Then offer him the higher-value treat in your other hand.
  
• Repeat until your dog immediately stops sniffing your hand when you say “leave it.”
  
• When you say “leave it” and he stops sniffing right away, leash your dog and then toss a low-value treat outside of his reach.
  
• Wait until he stops sniffing and pulling toward the treat. As soon as he does, either say “yes” or click and then give him a high-value treat from your hand. Practice this exercise a number of times.
  
  The key with this is to work up to items/food that your dog will consider "high-reward," but you need to start with baby steps.
  
  >Openly begs for food and will not leave your side if you have some
  
  Literally force her out of the room. You might have to do it a hundred times, but eventually she will get the message. Do this for every single meal, any time you have food.
  
  >Gorges herself
  
  I don't understand how she's allowed to gorge herself? Keep her food in a place she cannot get to it by herself. If you mean that she's eating too fast, consider buying her one of these bowls. It will force her to eat slower.
  
  >Cannot go to the bathroom outside by herself
  
  You need to go outside with her on a leash every 3-4 hours. If you notice she's still having accidents, you need to go out with her more frequently. Tell her the command "do business" or "go potty" or whatever you'd like to name the command when she finally goes potty outside. Treat her and make it very exciting when she goes potty outside--this gives her a positive experience for going potty outside. Don't punish her for having accidents unless she is specifically marking (peeing only a little bit and not the full amount).
  
  >Tears apart the garbage
  
  Why is she allowed to get into the garbage can?
  
  > 9/10 times, she will not come if called
  
  You need to teach recall with her.
  

I would suggest a heavy bowl for water vs a water bottle, as it is a more natural way for them to drink and will encourage better hydration. Try these:

https://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Paw-Print-PetWare-Bunny-Colors/dp/B0002AS9M4/ref=sr_1_2?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1538756656&sr=1-2&keywords=bunny+bowl

https://www.amazon.com/STAYbowl-NO-SLIP-NO-TIP-Food-Water/dp/B01NCM6808


Also on Etsy you can find some awesome hayfeeder/litter tray/bowl combos. They are a bit more expensive, but very good quality and will last forever and keep everything organized.

https://www.etsy.com/shop/BunnyRabbitToys?ref=l2-shopheader-name

https://www.etsy.com/shop/BunsBedsAndBeyond?ref=l2-shopheader-name


A bunny needs at least a 4 by 2 ft space in it's enclosure, so literally NONE of the store-bought cages would be good! Here is a list of some ideas for housing I looked at personally that are also apartment friendly:

https://www.etsy.com/shop/LilFroggyDesigns?ref=l2-shopheader-name&section_id=22454708 - great size options and reasonable price, well made

https://www.etsy.com/shop/DutchElves?ref=l2-shopheader-name – wonderful idea, clean and large, also will protect bunny from other animals in the home, if you have any

https://www.etsy.com/shop/ClearlyLovedPets?ref=l2-shopheader-name - unconventional, but could be a nice large set-up that is also good looking for a modern space

http://www.petwerks.com/condos.aspx - well made, fantastic size to space ratio, a bit on an investment

https://www.amazon.com/MidWest-Foldable-Metal-Exercise-Playpen/dp/B000H8YTJI - good old xpen works every time :)

Another idea here using storage cubes and colorplast you can basically replicate the etsy enclosures https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzS82KZ7ADo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KzS82KZ7ADo - video on how to build one

https://www.amazon.com/LANGRIA-Storage-Organizer-Products-Portable/dp/B06XR71YW1?ref_=w_bl_hsx_s_ho_web_13643573011 - if you need more cubes for a larger space they have those too, just look on amazon for 56 panel set

https://www.amazon.com/24-36-Coroplast-Sign-frames/dp/B00YG1PNTW/ref=sr_1_4?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1538141593&sr=1-4&keywords=colorplast - colorplast
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075H3H3BL/ref=crt_ewc_title_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1ID36P4IX52ZW - blanket I like

Ideas from reddit:
https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/9i5swo/built_my_rabbit_a_new_cage_after_moving_halfway/

https://www.reddit.com/r/Rabbits/comments/9fobf1/finished_up_my_custom_hutches_for_mochi_and_basil/

Congrats on the gift & thanks for sharing! How generous! =)

First, on every hike: nature calls, and there's not always a potty. Usually just a rock or a tree. With these tissues, you can avoid "eco guilt".
Earthsmart Zero Trees Portapack Compostable Bathroom Tissue

Wash up:
Mother's Therapy Organics Hand Sanitizer with Clip

& always have a hankie or kleenex. Cos you need them. No need to link that. You have them.

If you have pets & you bring them with you, a portable water bowl is an absolute.

Merrel Hiking Shoe/Boot. Your shoe or boot is your preference & depends on the trail, but you will ALWAYS need to replace them every year, at least, if you hike often. The group I hike with favors Merrels. I linked the Amazon Merrel store cos I'm not sure of your trail conditions, climate, shoe/boot preference etc. A good hiking shoe is always at the top of my list when it comes to gear.



Rope. Cos once when we were hiking my dogs missed the trail and jumped down a steep cliff. We had to rescue them. A rope sure would have come in handy!
Braided Polypropylene General Purpose Rope


To make your cache more sneaky:
Fake Rock

Honestly, I prefer to carry a back pack with my things and really don't like the camelpaks. They're a pain in the ass to keep clean. I love my reusable wide-mouthed BPA-free water bottle. There's 2 sizes. They're perfect. I use the small one all the time, but the bigger one might be handy for longer hikes.

NIKE T1 Flow Water Bottle 16oz

Nike T1 Flow Water Bottle, 32 oz

Most trails have clean water sources, but if not you may want a water bottle with built-in filtration such as Seychelle.

Happy caching & hiking! I love hiking! It's one of my favorite things!
Here's some pics of my favorite hike earlier this year.

Peace & Love

If you're willing to take the time necessary to find an amazing home for your dog - ie you're not trying to home the dog by a certain time and will place it wherever, even if it's substandard - then there's no shame in rehoming. Especially when you thought things were set up to deal with different situations (mom available for if you had a new job, a support system in place, etc).

Adopted street dogs are tough. I don't know how old the dog was when he was rescued from the street and how old he was when you actually adopted him but even rescued somewhat young can pose specific challenges. You don't know what they were exposed to (and not exposed to) during those crucial socialization periods. My cousin had one and actually did find a family with a large farm that could take in her dog and it worked incredibly well, but she took that time to find this exceptional home. If you know time is an issue and you're afraid you wont be able to find the best home in the right time, talk to a rescue. You can offer to be the foster and if "time runs out" so to say, they can probably find another foster until the right forever home comes up.

But, this doesn't mean that's your only option and your other options can be just as good. If you're able to work with a behaviorist you might be able to help with some of the issues - especially the ones that prevent your dog from being able to stay at your mother's. You might also want to check around at other daycares - they might be a little further, but you might have more options. I love Louis' daycare but realized it wouldn't work for Owen (especially since he'll be intact). Looking around I found a daycare that's much larger in scale which means they can handle much more (they can break up dogs into more specific groups).

You might also want to try to either up the exercise a little or spread it out more; some dogs end up doing better with multiple 10 minute walks instead of one 30 minute walk; especially a dog that grew up probably roaming or at least moving around during various times of the day instead of just once or twice.

You might also want to try some puzzle toys. Instead of feeding from a bowl, feed out of a kong wobbler, a treat dispensing ball, a digger bowl (which I just found out and absolutely adore especially for dogs that seem to use their paws a little more).

Using something like a squirt bottle, all you are doing is training her not to scratch the carpet in your presence. Once you go to bed or leave the apartment, she'll be back at it. That's why I'd put something heavy (furniture, potted plant, heavy floor lamp, another scratching post) on top of the areas you don't want her to dig at any further so that they're inaccessible to her.

Does she actually use the other scratching posts? Cats can sometimes be picky
bout the position and material (mine ignores cardboard scratchers but loves this type) so there maybe something more satisfying to her about the carpet than the other scratching posts.

What kind of stuff is she putting in her food bowl? It's normal cat behavior for them to put toys in their food bowl or even "drown" their toys in their water bowl. It's a harmless quirk of cat nature.

Stay with the heavier food bowl and get a good heavy water bowl (like this) Get a silicone food mat with a high lip on it so even if she does spill food or water it's an easy clean up.

Hopefully that helps with your issues!

I agree with /u/pug_mom about keeping the weight down. Also pasting my comment from another recent post for a new puggy owner:

Some notes/suggestions:

• Dog Food Advisor for reviews of food brands.
  
• I personally found this book to be pretty helpful.
  
• Food bowl recommendation: slow feed bowl like this. Pugs love food. LOVE IT. Can't get enough. Will eat as if they are starving and will never get a meal ever again. That means they make a mess and that they can eat too fast which can cause them to vomit. This sad post from a couple of weeks ago is also a warning about pugs eating too fast.
  
• The great thing about pugs being so food motivated is that training is really easy. Low cal snacks, like green beans, peas or carrots are good things to use as treats/rewards. They will pick up commands pretty quickly when they understand they will get a yummy snack as a reward!
  
• Fold cleaning: I use unscented baby wipes. Clean the fold out regularly. I use those for the visible part of the ear, too. To get in the canal, flush with a saline solution. Play with ears, legs, feet regularly, so she is used to you doing it and won't be as fussy when you need to do routine cleaning/clipping.
  
  One general suggestion: don't use negative reinforcement for training or when she does something wrong. Puppies are babies, so they don't understand why they did something wrong. She will pee and poop in the house. She will bite you with those razor sharp puppy teeth. She will chew on things that she shouldn't chew on. These are inevitable and can get frustrating, but I recommend redirection and positive reinforcement.
  
  That's all I can think of for now. If I have any other suggestions, I'll edit.
  Also, there's a minimum tax of one puggy picture for advice, so be sure to post when she arrives! :)
  
  

I bought some similar to this but instead of a stainless steel bowl in the inside, it's a ceramic dish. I've also used these I like the ceramic over plastic because you can sanitize the dishes better and they don't get scratched up over time. The other reason I like ceramic over the other dishes is they have a thicker rim around the edge and I would think that would be more comfortable to perch on the edge of for your bird. They are hard to find though, unless you can find a local bird farm that carries them or a bird expo coming to town. I've bought my last couple of batches of dishes when the vendor shows up at the bird expo near me.

Either type can be hung anywhere in the cage. You'll get the hang of where to place the dishes in the cage! Even after I do a make over on the cage I usually end up moving a few stuff after a couple of days because I can see that my bird can poop on something from certain points.

Just search slow feed bowl and there are quite a few options!

Edit: they’re like this

AOLOVE Slow Feeder Bowl Healthy Food Fun Anti-Choke Pet Bowls for Dog (One Size, Pink) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XJY363T/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3hiZDbP4AD3WB

The stuff in the way forces them to slow down because they can’t get a huge mouthful at once.

Clean water should be accessible 24 hours a day to your dog, and once she realises the water bowl is always there, and always has water, she will learn to drink at a calmer pace, failing this, you can get bowls to help your dog drink slower. [Like this one.] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dogit-Go-Slow-Anti-Gulp-Medium-Black/dp/B0032GG5Z8)

As for your post, i'd personnally recommend having family meet all three of you in an outdoor setting, then having said family walk in your front door IN FRONT of your dog. To a dog this is pack hierarchy. I'm not an expert, but this is how i solved my gsd's behavorial issues, which were pretty much as you described in your post.

My ACD mix likes to do the same thing. A no-spill bowl works pretty well for us. It doesn't spill if you knock it over, she'd have to somehow work the top off. Might be worth a shot.

Most Labs do tend to eat with gusto. Make sure he's getting enough food. They do make some different food bowls to supposedly slow dogs down.

Interactive slow pet feeder

Skidstop slow feeder bowl

Gobble stopper bowl addition

Buster dog maze

I personally have had success with the treat type balls.

Kong wobbler

Kibble Nibbler

this makes it even more cute :) we need more people like you adopting.

Haha my dog just inhales food too i got him this

We used a raised feeder with a suction cup object in the middle of the dish to slow her down (otherwise she will inhale her food). Our adoption agency didn't really say either or, but she just looks more comfortable eating that way. We haven't had any problems; she doesn't ever have gas. We just make sure she isn't active for 30 min afterwards.

This is the feeder we use.

Currently we use Gobble Stoppers, we have ordered a few different sizes to figure out what works best and what bowl size works best.

It has slowed our 3 down, except for one. He will get frustrated, grab the stopper, and use it to fling the bowl upside down.

Chewy.com has them as well and that is where we order our stuff from now

I use these. Super easy to remove for cleaning and if they dig in the water, you can just raise it higher on the bars.

Not here for the gold, just with suggestions.

This requires some rigging: https://www.amazon.com/Living-World-Lock-Crock-20-Ounce/dp/B005F3FCSM, but literally one of those types of kennel water bowls - if you can find something to screw it in to, it locks in to place. Put one of those plastic placemats underneath (you can find them at most pet stores) - they'll catch the mess, and your cat can't drag a screwed in water bowl around.

Going off the kennel idea, https://www.amazon.com/COCOPET-Dripless-Fountains-Dispenser-Automatically/dp/B01KDUK8US/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1511144068&sr=1-4&keywords=kennel+water+bottle&dpID=4105l1%252Bk1YL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch you can easily train a cat to use one of these licking water bottles.

Also, https://www.amazon.com/Sit-N-Stay-Small-Magnetic-Non-Slip-Tray/dp/B01FE6ZILU magnetic bowls. There's tons of different types, and might be difficult to move. You can also find these in a lot of pet stores, make sure to take them out and see how they do, or order off Amazon and return it if it's not a powerful enough magnet.

Also, seconding the dripping faucet, or springing off that idea - a bowl in a guest bathroom sink, or a second bathtub. Then, if there's a mess, there's a convenient drain for it.

Good luck!

Same with my rescue the first few weeks. We got her a slow feeder bowl and added a probiotics supplement. She's doing much better now.

A friend of mine with a very messy Great Dane swears by the (admittedly, VERY expensive) slobber stopper bowl.

Growing up I had two beagles, and we used a bowl like this one here. Also, we would water down half the kibble so it was kinda soft/mushy and then mix in the hard half, and that seemed to help too.

http://www.amazon.com/Reusable-Washable-Training-Pee-Pads/dp/B00BOVB4IG
I use these they work great and come in different sizes.

https://www.amazon.com/Slopper-Stopper-Unit-Large-Breed/dp/B079P67QT8

I know it's a crazy expensive water bowl, but seriously, it's amazing.

We have a beagle that was inhaling her food so we bought this and have not had the problem since. After a few weeks of using it she got used to eating slowly and realized we were not ever going to take her food away and now she eats slower even if we use the normal bowl. It also helps if we feed her alone in the kitchen and make sure that our other dog can't access that area for a bit.

There are many products designed to slow down dogs eating so I googled for dogs drinking and it turns out many dogs have the same issue as yours and there are products to slow them down! There are several different styles: Slow-Down Pet Water Bowl, Dogit Slow Anti Gulping Bowl, I feel like something like this would work too.

EDIT: Just realized I was on /r/Dogtraining and not r/dogs and you were asking for reshaping behaviors not other solutions. Sorry I need sleep! I'll leave this up in case anyone is searching for the same thing.

Here's a couple on amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Corporation-BLX0758-Aquarium-20-Ounce/dp/B00063KH86/
http://www.amazon.com/Ware-Plastic-Slide-N-Lock-Small-Crock/dp/B0046TMGA8/
http://www.amazon.com/Living-World-Lock-Crock-6-Ounce/dp/B005F3FCTQ/

What I was recommending below was something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ethical-5-Inch-Stoneware-Crock-Dish/dp/B00025YU3Q/

We use these pads (http://www.amazon.com/Pack-Reusable-Washable-Housebreaking-Training/dp/B00BOVB4IG/ref=sr_1_5?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1420016402&sr=1-5&keywords=washable+pee+pads) for Bonnie, as well as the throw away kind for her bedding. She doesn't bunch it up very much, but the other ones are quite heavier and your kitty might not bunch them up so bad. I know they sell less expensive travel/crate ones that might be worth a try!

Here ya go for the Amazon link. The words I googled were “raised dog bowl and storage” :)

These bowls have saved me a lot of cleaning up. They still shovel the food and water out onto the floor, but not as bad as tipping them

Ive used this with good results.

We have that exact kind of pack. They do make cloth collapsible bowls that will fit in the zippered compartment. I got mine at a local petstore called PetLife but Amazon also sells them

This one is really similar to the one we have http://www.amazon.com/Folding-Collapsible-Travel-Water-Army-Green/dp/B006UVSJN8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1420486294&sr=8-4&keywords=collapsable+dog+bowls

They have No Spill Water Bowls also on Amazon.

That may help minimally. However if it's your dog that's dropping a mouthful of water it may not help as much.

I use this for my dog: Gobble Stopper. It works fairly well.

Maybe something like this?

And don't give him ANY attention when he does it. Completely ignore him- dont look, don't laugh, don't scold. Completely ignore.

Have you tried one of these?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073NF681T/

It doesn't slow the dog down as much as a maze bowl but I think it does it enough. At least with our dog. I guess ymmv

Here’s one, another, a fancier one, even fancier, The Ron Swanson.

[No tip Dog Bowl] (http://www.amazon.com/Loving-Pets-Standard-No-Tip-32-Ounce/dp/B000YJ0MVY)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004C33M38/ref=asc_df_B004C33M385436051/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=394997&creativeASIN=B004C33M38&linkCode=df0&hvadid=194946292260&hvpos=1o5&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1442920840715859691&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9011807&hvtargid=pla-313166130906

I bought two of these - they're game changers.

Living World Lock and Crock Dish, 20-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F3FCSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YE-wybTGBZFQQ

https://www.amazon.com/Slopper-Stopper-Dripless-Water-Bowl/dp/B079P67QT8

This solved all our problems:

https://www.amazon.com/IRIS-Elevated-Feeder-Airtight-Storage/dp/B004C33M38/ref=sr_1_10?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1526048682&sr=1-10&keywords=dog+food+storage

We have a Conure that's notorious for this. He'd dump not only his food, but also his water several times a day.

We solved that problem with these. They come in various sizes; we used a much smaller version for our Pineapple Cheek.

I could really do with this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0032GG5Z8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3Q96XFJFV8RYR&coliid=I25LHWBKK5LJW4&psc=1

For my puppy. He eats his food too fast and always ends up being bloated and sometimes getting sick because he just gulps it all down. We have tried lots of different things with him to try and slow him down but nothing seems to be working. I think he was underfed when he was born and that is why he just shoves everything down his throat. I would very much appreciate the bowl!

I took a sip of something poison, but I'll hold on tight

Merci <3

Get a slobber stopper bowl, you can find on Amazon. Fixed my 5 month puppy that had the same problem instantly, she actually does better with an open bowl now too

Edited to add link, expensive but worth the lack of mess. I went from water halfway around kitchen to almost no drips.

Slopper Stopper Dripless Dog Water Bowl - Large Breed Dogs 51-85 Lbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P67QT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OAGSCbE3CAYB7

Yeah I hope the dog's owner eventually was able to get a proper bowl for him! We found one of these slows her down enough to actually chew her food but doesn't frustrate her the way a maze bowl does (way too slow). I'm considering smaller maze-style dishes for my ferrets and cat though, although my cat started slowing down with her dry food when I finally put up a damn baby gate to block my mom's fat, bitchy cat from entering her territory.