Reddit mentions: The best dog bowls

I rescued a german shepherd mix when he was about 2 months old and he just turned 2 years! He's awesome!

Join /r/dogs for great community, support, and advice.

Here are some of my dog's favorites if you're lost on what to Wishlist on Amazon:

• Hands down the best ball for fetch, if he likes fetch
  
• And the launcher I like this one b/c you can just throw it in a backpack and it'll zip all the way closed (I like to keep a backpack w/ my dog's park toys, some treats, poop bags, wet ones/purell, and his shot records) The best thing about the chuck-it is that you don't have to pick up a slobbery ball.
  
• Three very good chew bones
  
• Advantage Multi if you're not often taking him onto tick-heavy hikes. If you need tick control, get Frontline and Interceptor for heartworm.
  
• The best dog frisbee and I've tried a half dozen. Doesn't fly the best, but it's the most durable, safe, and flies great with a little practice.
  
• This Car seat cover is great
  
• Flexi leash is really handy when used appropriately.
  
• Poo bags can never have enough of. and you go through them pretty quick.
  
• Dog backpack great for burning off energy on walks/hikes, and makes them feel like they're doing an important job! I have this one in black. works great.
  
• Collapsible water bowl handy for hikes/camping/outings
  
• european style leather lead (leash) I'm preferential to the feel of leather for leashes/collars. And the european is absolutely the best - adjustable length and super easy to tether them to a pole/fence if you're eating outdoors or running into a store or something (of course use common sense when doing this!)
  
• Harness I'm not a fan of harnesses - they're annoying to put on/take off and just encourage a dog to pull more. But if you want him to pull, towing you on a skateboard or something (my dog loves this) then it's great
  Furminator GSD mixes don't need regular brushing, but this one works great for shedding season
  Dremel for nail trimming GSD = black nails, a bit trickier to trim. I use this with lots of treats to put a nice round edge and take off a bit of length of my dog's nails. works good but get him accustomed to it slowly and with lots of treats. Pretty soon he won't mind.
  *Zukes are great treats for training
  
• Bowls that don't tip over. Easy to wash. can't break. My pick.
  
• Big crate I use for vacations when I bring my dog but need to leave him in a hotel room or something. It's big and bulky but I like to give him room to move around comfortably.
  
• A good shampoo I like hydrosurge unscented but it's not on Amazon =\
  
• deodorizer I give my dog a little spritz between baths if he starts to get funky
  
• A shower head like this makes bathing super painless. I just bring my dog in the shower w/ me along with some treats and it's quick and easy.
  
• a scrubber like this gets my dog cleaner than I can with my hands. I found one at petco I like
  
  
  Wow I kind of didn't realize I have so much shit for my dog. But he's family so...anyway. Also costco has great beds for $20ish (comparably $80+ from a petstore) They also carry Frontline, lots of treats (buscuits, duck breast jerkey - the best!) good food (Iams ProActive goes on sale once in a while, and they also carry Natures Domain salmon/sweet potato food that's really good).

First off stuff to buy.

1. Crate. Unfortunately from my personal experience you will likely end up with 2. I got the largest I could find locally and it worked well for the first year or so and had a nice divider so that crate training worked well, but by time Minnie was full grown it was too short for her and ended upgrading to this massive beast and she loves it
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005VVWBVY/
   
   
2. Beds are a waste as others have said, they will look for what ever is cold and will lay in some of the most awkward positions you can imagine. So with that said i recommend the following pad if you are going to spend quite a bit of time in a room that is carpeted. Its filled with water and does a good job making a cool spot for them to lay. If you are handy i recommend getting some thin fabric and making like a giant pillow case for it as it will make cleaning it 100x easier and will further prevent rips from their claws (although it is quite durable on its own)
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003KK60R4/
   
   
3. Dryer. This you wont need now, but once their adult coat starts coming in around a year and they are swimming more a high velocity dryer really makes a huge difference in getting them dry and keeping their skin in good condition. I recommend googling this a bit and looking at some reviews. These can get pricey but generally you get what you pay for. I personally went with the B-Air Bear Power 4hp model, but it comes and goes in terms of availability at a decent price.
   
   
4. Toys, they really can do a number on toys so you'll probably want to skip most plush toys and stick to the more heavy duty canvas and chew resistant toys. Generally dont spend a ton on toys because they will likely be destroyed, keep an eye on them and take them away once they really get into them and starts ripping them apart. The one brand I will however absolutely recommend is Chuck-it. They are the Orange and blue toys and I have no idea what they make their toys out of but we have several of their large balls that are going on 3 years old still in like new condition. Minnie can chew them like bubble gum and hasn't managed to destroy one. their water bumpers are nearly as indestructible.
   
   
5. Flea and Tick meds. This will likely be controversial because ask 10 people and you will get 11 answers. But we started Minnie on Advantix II and it worked amazing, as long as you applied it frequently. Its once a month under ideal conditions, but with heavy swimming it can be as little as once every 2 weeks. As long as you are applying it on schedule it does great. Never saw anything on her and we are in New England where the tick season has been crazy the last year or two. However the cost and application timing was getting a bit much so we switched to the Sorresto collar and it appears to be working just as well (doesn't protect against mosquito like the advantix however but with their fur i figure thats a minimal issue). The advantage is with the collar is that its good for 5 months even with regular baths / swimming. So overall the cost is lower and you arent having to keep reapplying it.
   
   
6. food and water bowls. I found these on amazon and love them. they are good and heavy, dishwasher safe and nice and large. For the price they have been amazing. The nice thing is with their weight that Minnie doesnt try to move them around to flip them over if she splashes in her water bowl. I got the 9.5" version. One note of caution, they can get chipped in shipping, so really look them over if you get them. Amazon is great on exchanging them if you get one not in perfect shape.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AS5QY/
   
   
7. Health and wellness. Where possible dont buy "dog" things here. A good example is if you end up having to do dewormer. Panacur-C is quite expensive because its done by weight. The same medicine is sold on amazon / Tractor Supply for goats at a much lower cost and you can easily calculate dosage based on what the mg in the comparable Panacur-C package. Same goes for probiotic. Like we use this and its lasted close to 2 years and its been a much better value than buying the dog version.
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0088OKQIQ/
   
   
8. Microchipping. If you have a VIP pet care in your area they do the chip and lifetime registration for under $20.
   
   
9. Food. As a pup its important to find a food that has a low calcium content. Eukanuba Large breed puppy is one of the few that I've found that meets this. You want less than 1%. As they get older you will want to find a quality food. Kirkland Salmon is affordable and gets good feedback.

Hi there and you are welcome!

I will give you some advice below though a lot of things need to be changed... No offence at all, just trying to help.

What is happening now is very dangerous so you need to address this ASAP. The neosporin and bag balm will help in the short term to keep things from getting worse. Once you have actual urine scald it is very hard to address.

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Set up:

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1. A cage with wire bottom is not appropriate at all. Wire bottoms hurt their feet a lot, please do not do it.
   
2. Also change his kennel set up.
   
   1. It should not be lined with hay. The floor should be solid so he knows that is his living space not his litter box. You can use absorbent blankets or puppy pee pads and change them EVERY DAY until you litter train him.
      
   2. Now, get a large cat litter box and set it up like I suggested - not with puppy pee pads, but with proper bedding such as wood pellets and carefresh
      
      1. Watch this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XI1aonqc5Tc
         
      2. I highly recommend using either carefresh paper litter the is much more absorbent or wood pellets which are equally absorbent and actually have good odor control... might suggest using a mix (in layers) kind of like in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DPMlRVUNZ00.
         
      3. Do not line the litter box with hay - put hay in a heaping pile on one side that he will use as the kitchen side while he pees and poops on the other side. You are wasting hay now as he pees on it and doesn't eat it after of course.
         
      4. Clean the litter box daily - it should not be damp.
         
      5. Here is what his space should look like https://imgur.com/a/3n4WO84 (just the hay still only on one side of the litter box)
         
         ​
         
         Litter Training:
         
         Then you need to start litter training him. DILIGENTLY! trust me it is very possible... You need to make a real effort on this and get the set up right. Also bring his litter box outside when he is there and liter train there too.
         
         Th key is to reinforce diligently! Bunnies are very food motivated. Use positive reinforcement to build a clear association that using the litter box leads to good things. Remind him that a litter box is a good thing by giving a tiny treat every time you see him use it for a while. If you are ever there and see him get ready to go (his tail kind of lifts up like in this video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ym7-BBY4ep4) scoop him up gently and put him in the litter box. If you see him make one poop, as soon as you see it place him right in the box so the rest he does in there. Once he goes give that little treat to him as a reward. This reinforcement if done consistently over time will really help. Place any poops you find back into his litter box together with the bunny to reinforce and if he pees outside use a napkin to blot it and again place back into the litter box
         
         Lastly be sure you clean the spot he pees outside his litter box each time wit white vinegar to remove the scent of his pee so that he doesn't keep coming back to the spot.
         
         ​
         
         Neutering:
         
         Now you also have to get him neutered. It is very hard to litter train an unfixed bunny due to hormonal territory marking.
         
         Neutering is essential! Please find a RABBIT SAVVY vet ASAP and schedule a consult. A good vet is key.
         
         One of the best ways to find a great vet is through you local rabbit rescues. Try to google your local rabbit rescues, see what the closest House Rabbit Society chapter is. Dedicated rabbit rescues do a lot of spays and neuters (they never leave the buns unfixed) so they can always recommend a good and well priced vet. Often you can find this info right on their websites (look in different sections there) but if not an email with a question will get you a response.
         
         Also here you can also find a list of rabbit savvy vets by state to cross reference the info:
         
         https://rabbit.org/vet-listings/
         
         http://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Category:United_States (also lists rescues and low cost clinics to look into to)
         
         https://www.chewy.com/petcentral/directory-of-veterinarians-for-exotic-small-mammals
         
         ​
         
         In particular for a spay this page also has great questions to ask the vet/clinic as you research - http://wabbitwiki.com/wiki/Spaying_and_neutering_rabbits
         
         ​
         
         Water bowl:
         
         I would get a heavy ceramic bowl with straight up edges he cannot push on to tip the bowl - you can look on Etsy or go to Ross or TJmax, they sell a lot of pet items very cheap with bowls among them. You are looking for something heavy.
         
         Also there are these bowls that you can clip to the side of an enclosure like an xpen - like this or this or this - clip it low to the ground so it's basically still is on the ground for him but clipped in. Or even a gravity feeder like this.
         
         Also clearly he likes to flip thing, so offer him alternatives these Nesting cups where you can hide pellets in between are great for flipping, as is a Plastic slinky - try these to divert his attention to them instead of the bowl. In the absences of toys a bored and frustrated bunny will do other things....

I've got little Foggy in a dog crate settup on my porch. First two days was easy since she felt so poopy but now she's active and feeling better and she's spitting up the pills. We got some tiny tomatoes and grapes and hiding them in it. It's best to let her eat the pills vs forcing them down her throat.

Also clean clean clean, it's super important to keep their environment clean. I have 6 large bath towels on rotation and a good layer of news paper underneath. I change the towels 3 times a day to make sure she doesn't sit/stand in wet/poop.

Also these are literally the best. She can't tip them over for food and water: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0012GTZVQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Good luck!

Another male? Aspen is ok though carefresh or better yet (and certainly cheaper in the long run) fleece. You can just go to a Joann's or walmart or any hobby/sewing store and buy some fleece. Toss it in the wash as needed with an extra set in reserve. Cat food is what you should transition him to, high quality. I do blue buffalo cat food personally. It will last you a VERY long time. Hedgehog food is never as good for them as it should be. I will provide some amazon links for things you should probably get, the main one that you should but not quite have to if you have a room in the proper temp range is 72-80 degrees. Please come over to Hedgehogs Anonymous on Facebook request to join, then once you are in simply go to the files and take a look at them. I am a college student myself so I do my best to keep costs low though obviously start up costs will be high but after that its really quite cheap mostly (aside from possible vet visits).

Modular shelving can be the cage and gives him plenty of open room to roam and play around. This is the shelving I personally use and can vouch for. I have a 3x3 grid so 9 sq ft. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LGZOR6A/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the food I get for my Sophie. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KU55KD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Heating set up, again this is only if you need it and can keep the temp in the right range naturally. I dont know where you live so I do not know what your winters are like but if you get temps in the 50s or lower I do recommend it. Another preventative measure is to put the cage a foot or so off the ground, will actually keep your temps a few degrees higher than on the ground.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DHO6S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Ceramic Heat Emitter - Use this and NOT a heat light or something for reptiles, they need to have a period of darkness to be naturally awake 12/12 light on/off schedule All that the CHE does is emit heat, no light.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002CZ0J3E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Thermostat with a temp probe. Plug the CHE lamp into this and it automatically turns the CHE on and off to keep the temp in the right range.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003H200QC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 The lamp part to plug the CHE bulb into.

Hide - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068K132/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mint Stick (it seems all hedgies love these things lol)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00O8Q5JTO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

food dishes
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0040B9NOY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are all the bare essentials aside from a wheel. I and most other people will recommend the Volcano View Hedgehogs bucket wheel or Carolina Storm bucket wheel.

I was just trying to be a thorough as possible without really leaving out anything. Again please join us over at Hedgehogs Anonymous on facebook. Everyone in the group absolutely loves helping everyone with a hedge. Any question that you may have can and will be answered fairly quickly. Most if not all members would recommend getting from a USDA certified breeder just so you know the full medical history of your baby and his parents. Its also generally cheaper as the cost from a breeder is generally around $200 though that depends on the coloring. I am by no means saying do not get him from your pet store you played with him at. I dont like pet stores having hedgehogs just because they are a more sensitive exotic animal that doesnt do well in a retail setting when you have to take care of hundreds of animals at once with high overhead. But if he is behaves well with you now then absolutely get him from there. He looks on the smaller side so hes pretty young.

Again please join us over at Hedgehogs Anonymous. Cant wait to see you and your baby on there. You could potentially take him home today with a cheap bin, simple fleece bolts and food and water dishs from what you have in your house and thatll last until the rest of your supplies are acquired.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/382631271838164/

Get a container, small enough not to lose track of them but big enough for a small food bowl. I guess tupperware or something similar? I'd normally suggest a kritter keeper, but they look a bit too small for one lol. I'd get one of those square, semi flat containers, like this, so that it's small but still has enough floor space. A taller but less wide one would be better, but I couldn't find any solid options.

Poke some holes in the top for air, put some pesticide free dirt in the bottom, get a small bowl to put their food in, though I'm not sure where you'd get something small enough. It still needs to be heavy so the snail can't lift it, so small plastic containers are out, but nothing too big. Seems a lot of people use bowls like this one, though usually it's for larger snails.

Make sure you spray them with water near daily. Keep the walls and floor moist (but don't flood it), feed them pesticide free/organic veggies (and some fruits, but it's said that citrus can hurt snails in large doses, so just be wary, especially because of your snail's size), get them a cuttlefish bone (found in the bird section of pet stores) for calcium to help keep their shell strong. You'll likely only need one as they're pretty big. I'd snap it in half and just put one half in at a time, preferably on top of something so that it isn't dirtied up from the, well, dirt.

I think that's mostly it?? Honestly this may be too much info lol, you only asked for where to put them.

Good luck with them! What're you gonna name them?

This is our 8 month old Pembroke Welsh Corgi, Winston!

He chews and chews and chews, but he's pretty good at keeping it to his toys (and the occasional stray sock)

His favourites (and those that haven't given up after about 5 minutes are the Kong ball, Kong classic, Kong squeezze, elk antlers and finally Nylabones (I tend to buy one size up to avoid him tearing through them...

He is a surprisingly strong chewer and has destroyed just about everything else we've presented to him within minutes, sometimes within seconds!

There are 3 pitbulls around my place and I find they have LOTS of energy...I would suggest that you invest in some "agility equipment" to work the mind and the body! We bought some cheap shower tension rods to use as jumping obstacles in the hallway, a play tunnel from IKEA - although it may be too small for a pit...and this summer, we will make some weave poles out of PVC pipes and stuff.

A travel bowl or this Nylabone dinosaur would be awesome for Winston! :D

Thanks so much for the contest and congrats on the new pup! Enjoy him and snuggle him and love him! Dogs are the best! :D

Yeah going fake gives you the benefit of something that will last much much longer and has no chance of growing mold and is easy to clean. Good thing is if you're savvy enough and know where to shop, creating a good set up for your snake (aside from the enclosure itself) shouldn't have to break the bank. In the future you will have to shill out some cash for a proper adult enclosure so keep that in mind. For future substrate, the ones I named should be perfectly suited for a BCI since it will need humidity between 60-70%. I would shy away from aspen because it gets soggy easily and is prone to mold growth. Another thing is I suggest getting a ceramic water bowl. Even baby BCI can easily tip over other water bowls and there are some good ones on amazon that are deep and sturdy. https://www.amazon.com/Ethical-5-Inch-Stoneware-Crock-Dish/dp/B00025YU3Q/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3GEO31AZRX3RC&keywords=ceramic+water+bowl&qid=1565353412&s=gateway&sprefix=ceramic+water%2Caps%2C156&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyVlpZSUQ1R0lPWUsyJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDgzMjE5MTNRM1lGQlBQWk1QRSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMTk1Mjc5MkxYS0NLOVZVMEUySyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

If you have any other snake husbandry questions feel free to DM me. I'd be more than happy to point you in the right direction.

There are many many options for housing a salamander. Nobody knows has a better internet presence for keeping them then the folks at caudata.org as mentioned by u/ye_ol_chuckaboo below. They have a helpful forum where you can get info advice and answers to questions. they also have care-sheets. So i suggest you spend soem time looking there.

Some simple ideas would start with something like:

go get a 40 gallon aquarium or larger. or 3 - 4 foot plastic storage box or like this

whatever you use it will need a lid to keep things out and the salamander inside but it must allow air to pass through

the main thing here is that it doesnt need to be more than 15 inches tall but should have as much surface area (footprint) as possible. A good minimum is about 4 - 4.5 square feet. or anything at or above the "40 gallon size " on the standard US tank sizes chart here

buy some organic untreated (chemical free, fertilizer free) topsoil from a garden store.

plan to use at least 6 - 8 inches of soil at the bottom

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order several cork bark hides like this logs or half logs will be good to partially bury and to keep on the surface so the animal can choose a hide.

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get a *large* smooth sided glass ceramic water bowl like this or like this

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use only smooth objects stones, smooth glass ceramic, plastic. no gravel no sharp rocks no sharp wood.

Moss and plants can help add humidity and attractiveness.

a water mister bottle is helpful to have around

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feel free to ask any specific questions

Using something like a squirt bottle, all you are doing is training her not to scratch the carpet in your presence. Once you go to bed or leave the apartment, she'll be back at it. That's why I'd put something heavy (furniture, potted plant, heavy floor lamp, another scratching post) on top of the areas you don't want her to dig at any further so that they're inaccessible to her.

Does she actually use the other scratching posts? Cats can sometimes be picky
bout the position and material (mine ignores cardboard scratchers but loves this type) so there maybe something more satisfying to her about the carpet than the other scratching posts.

What kind of stuff is she putting in her food bowl? It's normal cat behavior for them to put toys in their food bowl or even "drown" their toys in their water bowl. It's a harmless quirk of cat nature.

Stay with the heavier food bowl and get a good heavy water bowl (like this) Get a silicone food mat with a high lip on it so even if she does spill food or water it's an easy clean up.

Hopefully that helps with your issues!

Go with the PVC set up. As some one who has used glass set ups and tried to find ways to alter them to make them better for BPs: don't bother. It costs more to make the set up 'right' and then to maintain it, because you will have to maintain it constantly. When I began, I thought I could engineer my way through and turned the tank on it's side, built a door, all kinds of things...and yeah, it worked, made a beautiful glass enclosure and I could see my snake, but it was never consistent enough to not have to check daily, like a PVC should be.

Stay away from glass. It's just not worth it.

Good choices on the reptile basics stuff.

This is the thermometer I use: Acu-Rite Indoor/Outdoor - it also keeps track of humidity.

Stay away from the Zoomed coconut husk stuff and go for ReptiChip - it's less dusty and slightly bigger chunks so it's safer for your BP. Plus that package is big and perfect for several full substrate change outs.

The water dish is not big enough - it's only 3 inches wide. Definitely won't help with humidity, unless you get 2-3 of them and put them around the set up. Get a ceramic dog bowl like this instead. It's big, won't run out quickly, and will let your BP soak if it wants to.

Use the reptibasic hides. They're sturdy and easy to clean. 'Decorative' hides are usually a pain to clean.

I've tried the decorative vine and it's no good; when your BP poops on it, the poop stays stuck and unless you're going to pull it out and sanitize it every time (the leaves are fiber, not plastic), it's just a pain to have.

Lastly, don't even bother with mice for your BP. Just start straight from rats. The sooner your BP is on rats, the easier life will be.

Harder to flip over. Having the bowl in it's own stand like this may also help.

Take a look at this to make sure she's not a little big overweight and being picky. If you're hand feeding you might as well be training, so either teach her some things or practice cues.

It's worth trying treat dispensing toys, like treat balls, stuffed kongs or such to completely remove the need for bowls.

I bought some similar to this but instead of a stainless steel bowl in the inside, it's a ceramic dish. I've also used these I like the ceramic over plastic because you can sanitize the dishes better and they don't get scratched up over time. The other reason I like ceramic over the other dishes is they have a thicker rim around the edge and I would think that would be more comfortable to perch on the edge of for your bird. They are hard to find though, unless you can find a local bird farm that carries them or a bird expo coming to town. I've bought my last couple of batches of dishes when the vendor shows up at the bird expo near me.

Either type can be hung anywhere in the cage. You'll get the hang of where to place the dishes in the cage! Even after I do a make over on the cage I usually end up moving a few stuff after a couple of days because I can see that my bird can poop on something from certain points.

In this case, it is really hard to give advice, I would want to watch all of the interactions and level of guarding, aggression and injuries. I would be concerned about getting you hurt. Generally, I like advising the book you have been working with, beyond that, I would suggest working with an IAABC or CPDT-KA trainer/ consultant.

I do have a couple exercises that you might consider in the mean time, if it is safe, it's yer choice - susan garrett, normally I use kevlar gloves to protect my hand with dogs who will make me bleed. If you can be safe, I would consider switching to hand feeding.

Otherwise, it is a management issue until you can bring a consultant into your home. I would only feed in a crate with the door closed with a bowl attached to the door. I like the Snap Y Fit bowls for this propose. Normally, I have my dogs go into the crate and offer a sit with their nose inside the invisible door boundary before I drop their food into the bowl.

Whatever you do, keep your self safe and try to prevent instances where the dog practices the behavior, this becomes a self reinforcing behavior.

i personally have these for daphne but i dont think shes ever tried to tip her bowls. something like this might be harder for her to get her little snoot under to flip

i also found these and im squealing with how cute they are. i think i need them lol

Clean water should be accessible 24 hours a day to your dog, and once she realises the water bowl is always there, and always has water, she will learn to drink at a calmer pace, failing this, you can get bowls to help your dog drink slower. [Like this one.] (https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dogit-Go-Slow-Anti-Gulp-Medium-Black/dp/B0032GG5Z8)

As for your post, i'd personnally recommend having family meet all three of you in an outdoor setting, then having said family walk in your front door IN FRONT of your dog. To a dog this is pack hierarchy. I'm not an expert, but this is how i solved my gsd's behavorial issues, which were pretty much as you described in your post.

Ugh! My lovies did that all. the. time! It drove me nuts! I first got a water dispenser like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Company-Feeder-Accessory-Medium-Colors/dp/B0002DJW4U Since it clips into the cage, the little squirts couldn't tip it over. Refilling and cleaning it are kind of a pain, though, because you end up spilling water when you take it out of the cage.

I'd recommend a bowl like this one. https://www.amazon.com/Kaytee-Stoneware-Hamster-Bowl-3-Inch/dp/B0040B9NOY This is the one I'm using now, and I love it. It's heavy, so the bird can't turn it over, even if the bird stands on the edge of the bowl. And it's so much easier to clean! I put it on the floor of the cage (away from the perches) it works great!

My ACD mix likes to do the same thing. A no-spill bowl works pretty well for us. It doesn't spill if you knock it over, she'd have to somehow work the top off. Might be worth a shot.

Most Labs do tend to eat with gusto. Make sure he's getting enough food. They do make some different food bowls to supposedly slow dogs down.

Interactive slow pet feeder

Skidstop slow feeder bowl

Gobble stopper bowl addition

Buster dog maze

I personally have had success with the treat type balls.

Kong wobbler

Kibble Nibbler

this makes it even more cute :) we need more people like you adopting.

Haha my dog just inhales food too i got him this

Our newly adopted bunnies are very tame about their water dish, it's got an amazing clamp that's secured to the xpen. They can't move it about, and it's at a height that food/hay generally can't fit in. We gave them their choice between that and the bottle, they won't touch the bottle. :)

http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-40-20-Snapy-Water-Ounces/dp/B0012GTZVQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342519600&sr=8-1&keywords=midwest+dish

Icecubes are an easy way for them to get hydrated and also help with teething. Can you get a water dish that won't tip over (like this) it might make it easier for them to drink out of.

We have a Snap'y fit which is way more secure than the hoop. The lip of the bowl literally snaps into the semi-circle and it is actually a huge pain to get out, haha. You have to tug directly out super hard, pushing down/up doesn't do much.

Currently we use Gobble Stoppers, we have ordered a few different sizes to figure out what works best and what bowl size works best.

It has slowed our 3 down, except for one. He will get frustrated, grab the stopper, and use it to fling the bowl upside down.

Chewy.com has them as well and that is where we order our stuff from now

I use these. Super easy to remove for cleaning and if they dig in the water, you can just raise it higher on the bars.

My parents got their one dog this bowl (it's a little less crazy than the other one, lol), but it actually does work pretty well.

I use this bowl to slow down my boxer mix: http://www.amazon.ca/OurPets-Premium-DuraPet-Slow-Medium/dp/B001NJ4PVW

It looks like there are also some other options for bowls like that, like this one: http://outwardhound.com/shop/dog-bowls

Not here for the gold, just with suggestions.

This requires some rigging: https://www.amazon.com/Living-World-Lock-Crock-20-Ounce/dp/B005F3FCSM, but literally one of those types of kennel water bowls - if you can find something to screw it in to, it locks in to place. Put one of those plastic placemats underneath (you can find them at most pet stores) - they'll catch the mess, and your cat can't drag a screwed in water bowl around.

Going off the kennel idea, https://www.amazon.com/COCOPET-Dripless-Fountains-Dispenser-Automatically/dp/B01KDUK8US/ref=sr_1_4?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1511144068&sr=1-4&keywords=kennel+water+bottle&dpID=4105l1%252Bk1YL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch you can easily train a cat to use one of these licking water bottles.

Also, https://www.amazon.com/Sit-N-Stay-Small-Magnetic-Non-Slip-Tray/dp/B01FE6ZILU magnetic bowls. There's tons of different types, and might be difficult to move. You can also find these in a lot of pet stores, make sure to take them out and see how they do, or order off Amazon and return it if it's not a powerful enough magnet.

Also, seconding the dripping faucet, or springing off that idea - a bowl in a guest bathroom sink, or a second bathtub. Then, if there's a mess, there's a convenient drain for it.

Good luck!

Consider getting something like this. You can pick your size. They are relatively cheap. Hard to tip over and I think they are an attractive solution.

Ethical 5-Inch Stoneware Crock Dog Dish

A friend of mine with a very messy Great Dane swears by the (admittedly, VERY expensive) slobber stopper bowl.

I'm pretty sure this is the exact one I bought. My dog is about 65lbs and I went with the 20oz size, although he has another larger water dish available when he's not in the kennel.

I have a few of the below bowls in the small size and definitely recommend them. They're $3 and have a lower lip on one side so my hedgie can easily access the goods

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035H9FB0/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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I found these bowls for pet food just randomly searching through Amazon one day and thought it would make a nice chalk bowl and wanted to share. The one I got is the 4 cup size.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MD3NLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PXxYDb12A5GV5

Growing up I had two beagles, and we used a bowl like this one here. Also, we would water down half the kibble so it was kinda soft/mushy and then mix in the hard half, and that seemed to help too.

I got it on Amazon for $5. It's an add-on item, but they sell larger ones that come with Prime shipping for about $10. It's great! No more spills in the crate!

For walking, get a harness. Bulldogs don't have much for a neck and collars can slip-off easily.

Also, get yourself a portable dog bowl - (I like this one ) and bring a small water-bottle on walks.

https://www.amazon.com/Slopper-Stopper-Unit-Large-Breed/dp/B079P67QT8

I know it's a crazy expensive water bowl, but seriously, it's amazing.

We have a beagle that was inhaling her food so we bought this and have not had the problem since. After a few weeks of using it she got used to eating slowly and realized we were not ever going to take her food away and now she eats slower even if we use the normal bowl. It also helps if we feed her alone in the kitchen and make sure that our other dog can't access that area for a bit.

Second vote for the Tug a jug, Buster Maze also the Mushroom are also good the Bobs A lot Also works great as it has variable settings for difficulty. Puzzles like this are great but they tend to be useless once the dog figures it out.

There are many products designed to slow down dogs eating so I googled for dogs drinking and it turns out many dogs have the same issue as yours and there are products to slow them down! There are several different styles: Slow-Down Pet Water Bowl, Dogit Slow Anti Gulping Bowl, I feel like something like this would work too.

EDIT: Just realized I was on /r/Dogtraining and not r/dogs and you were asking for reshaping behaviors not other solutions. Sorry I need sleep! I'll leave this up in case anyone is searching for the same thing.

Here's a couple on amazon:

http://www.amazon.com/Lixit-Corporation-BLX0758-Aquarium-20-Ounce/dp/B00063KH86/
http://www.amazon.com/Ware-Plastic-Slide-N-Lock-Small-Crock/dp/B0046TMGA8/
http://www.amazon.com/Living-World-Lock-Crock-6-Ounce/dp/B005F3FCTQ/

What I was recommending below was something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Ethical-5-Inch-Stoneware-Crock-Dish/dp/B00025YU3Q/

These bowls have saved me a lot of cleaning up. They still shovel the food and water out onto the floor, but not as bad as tipping them

Ive used this with good results.

My perpetually hungry chocolate lab reacted very positively to [the DogMaze](https://www.amazon.com/Buster-KR274091-Dog- Maze/dp/B005QJXSHC). She doesn't like it, but it slowed her eating down dramatically and, unlike just about every feeding toy I could find, it's made out of one solid piece of thick plastic rather than many fiddly parts that can be chewed on.

If you haven't, might be worth a try?

I had to get my dog this bowl because he used to eat ridiculously fast, you'd think we were starving him. He has mellowed out with age and can eat with a normal bowl now but his excitement just before a meal shall always remain.

They make special bowls to slow dogs down. OP those are much cheaper than surgery

EDIT: here’s an example. https://www.amazon.com/OurPets-DuraPet-Premium-Stainless-Steel/dp/B001NJ4PVW

They have No Spill Water Bowls also on Amazon.

That may help minimally. However if it's your dog that's dropping a mouthful of water it may not help as much.

I use this for my dog: Gobble Stopper. It works fairly well.

This works well with my boxer. OurPets Premium DuraPet Slow Feed Dog Bowl Medium https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ4PVW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_lEKqxbVFBK0JR

Here are the agility and the other style I meant was a maze another maze.

Of course the agility one is harder so it depend on your dog capacity at solving puzzles. My sisters dog would die of starvation :)

Maybe something like this?

And don't give him ANY attention when he does it. Completely ignore him- dont look, don't laugh, don't scold. Completely ignore.

Go to petco or petsmart. Sometimes they have them in the reptile area and other times in the hamster/gerbil area. I've seen them in brown, blue, green, grey, pink, and a few other colors.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040B9NOY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gwltxbD01M2Q2

[No tip Dog Bowl] (http://www.amazon.com/Loving-Pets-Standard-No-Tip-32-Ounce/dp/B000YJ0MVY)

https://www.amazon.com/Ethical-5-Inch-Stoneware-Crock-Dish/dp/B00025YU3Q

MidWest Critter Nation Single Level, two level optional depending on budget.

• http://smile.amazon.com/MidWest-Critter-Nation-Animal-Habitat/dp/B001NJ0DAY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462676314&sr=8-1&keywords=midwest+critter+nation
  
  Space Pod
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Lixit-Critter-Space-Pod-Large/dp/B002X2NBNQ/ref=pd_sim_199_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=514yBZHbQ1L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Oxbow Regal Rat food
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Oxbow-Regal-Rat-Food-3-Pound/dp/B000GABM1K/ref=pd_sim_199_5?ie=UTF8&dpID=51DFDAhgD3L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR113%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Water bottles
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/LIXIT-Proof-Glass-Water-Bottle/dp/B0002QI5WM/ref=pd_sim_199_7?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Wb3MLRcfL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR135%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  
  Litter box
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Ware-Plastic-Lock-N-Litter-Small-Colors/dp/B000HG96EI/ref=pd_sim_199_21?ie=UTF8&dpID=517FLhZC5FL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Hammock
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/ProSelectA-Polka-Dot-Cage-Hammocks/dp/B005N11YLK/ref=pd_sim_199_16?ie=UTF8&dpID=51lb4SYKutL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=09NQ6RB0F97DR3FYWSP7
  
  Food bowl
  
  
• http://smile.amazon.com/Kaytee-Stoneware-Hamster-Bowl-Inch/dp/B0040B9NOY/ref=sr_1_11?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1462676611&sr=1-11&keywords=food+dish

https://www.amazon.com/Slopper-Stopper-Dripless-Water-Bowl/dp/B079P67QT8

I bought two of these - they're game changers.

Living World Lock and Crock Dish, 20-Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005F3FCSM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YE-wybTGBZFQQ

I️ just got into doing the HG/DB method from researching this sub. Can’t tell you how my roasts have turned out as today was the first batch, but here’s my set up. The slow feeder bowl is supposed to distribute the heat better. I️ also have an air popper but am not fond of the small batch size.

OurPets DuraPet Slow Feed Premium Stainless Steel Dog Bowl https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001NJ4PVW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4fMbAb2RD4M8H

Wagner Power Products 503008 HT 1000 1,200-Watt Heat Gun https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004TUCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KhMbAb9GGK7NX

Maybe mix it in a little [what we do with our pugs]. My older one doesn't like the new allergen-free food, so we mix it a bit with his previous one.

Also for any pug owners out there, this dog bowl has done wonders for keeping extra shit from getting stuck in his face-folds.

Props on the new cat, I love our little adopted girl kitty. All she does is eat, cuddle, and poop a whole lot.

We have a Conure that's notorious for this. He'd dump not only his food, but also his water several times a day.

We solved that problem with these. They come in various sizes; we used a much smaller version for our Pineapple Cheek.

I could really do with this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0032GG5Z8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3Q96XFJFV8RYR&coliid=I25LHWBKK5LJW4&psc=1

For my puppy. He eats his food too fast and always ends up being bloated and sometimes getting sick because he just gulps it all down. We have tried lots of different things with him to try and slow him down but nothing seems to be working. I think he was underfed when he was born and that is why he just shoves everything down his throat. I would very much appreciate the bowl!

I took a sip of something poison, but I'll hold on tight

Merci <3

Get a slobber stopper bowl, you can find on Amazon. Fixed my 5 month puppy that had the same problem instantly, she actually does better with an open bowl now too

Edited to add link, expensive but worth the lack of mess. I went from water halfway around kitchen to almost no drips.

Slopper Stopper Dripless Dog Water Bowl - Large Breed Dogs 51-85 Lbs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079P67QT8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OAGSCbE3CAYB7

Yeah I hope the dog's owner eventually was able to get a proper bowl for him! We found one of these slows her down enough to actually chew her food but doesn't frustrate her the way a maze bowl does (way too slow). I'm considering smaller maze-style dishes for my ferrets and cat though, although my cat started slowing down with her dry food when I finally put up a damn baby gate to block my mom's fat, bitchy cat from entering her territory.