(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best duct tape

This is 3903 vinyl tape. You cant see in the video but there are slight ridges all along the tape to make it easier to tear. It is my favorite bondage tape as it unrolls quickly and easily, comes off nicely, and comes in a variety of colors. it is overpriced on amazon though.... should be about 6-9 bucks.

I am quite certain it is this tape...or damn near exactly the same...proof here: http://i.imgur.com/f6FGi0m.jpg <-- this is my personal stash of tape

https://www.amazon.com/3M-3903-Vinyl-Duct-Yards/dp/B0000AXT8K/ref=pd_day0_328_9?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0000AXT8K&pd_rd_r=DAVVA01NPD6YQ21FTJV8&pd_rd_w=pKPOC&pd_rd_wg=67LFl&psc=1&refRID=DAVVA01NPD6YQ21FTJV8

>Repair a Tear
>
>Duct tape is a temporary tear fix in nearly any situation, whether it’s your tent, a camping chair, a tarp or your sleeping bag that’s in need of repair. Put a strip of duct tape on the front and back of the ripped item for extra reinforcement.

This is a good use. Personally I'd use gorilla or tenacious tape over duct tape because it holds stronger but whatevs. Totally fine use.

>Make a Rope
>
>Though this shouldn’t be your first option, twisted duct tape can substitute for a non-load bearing rope in the case that you left yours at home. For a thin rope, simply coil two long pieces of tape together. Use more pieces for added thickness.

Non-load bearing is right...

>Seal Packages of Food
>
>Use duct tape to close packages of food when you leave your campsite or go to bed. Curious animals are attracted to crumbs and scents, so keep everything closed up tight with a strip of duct tape.

Duct tape will not keep animals out... like at all. Hanging your food or storing it in a bear bin will work 100x better.

>Temporary Sprained Ankle Wrap
>
>Duct tape can be used to support a sprained or rolled ankle when you’re far from a hospital. Learn how to properly tape your ankle in this video.

You should always bring a first aid kit and your first aid kit should always have either athletic tape or a tensor bandage for this use. Duct tape doesn't stretch and as a result cannot provide the needed compression and stability needed to support a joint without causing circulation issues.

>Fly Trap
>
>If your campsite has more flies than you can handle swatting, hang a strip of duct tape somewhere in your campsite and wait for the pesky insects to stick to it. The best place for this is near the food, where the flies are likely to gather.

Duct tape doesn't attract flies...

>Create a Spear Fishing Pole
>
>Want to catch a fish, but don’t have a pole? Tape your knife to a long stick, and create a spear fishing pole. Be sure the tape is wrapped tight and thick before trying to catch anything.

I don't even know where to start with this one... awful advice.

>Keep Your Tent Closed
>
>A busted zipper lets in the cold and bugs as your tent door flaps in the wind. Hold the door down with duct tape, and deal with your broken zipper at home.

Same deal as the tear. This could work but proper repair supplies will work better.

>Make a Windbreaker
>
>If the wind picks up in your campsite, tape a few sturdy trash bags together and hang them on the side of your pop up shelter for a windbreaker wall. Tape the windbreaker to the poles of your shelter so it doesn’t blow in the wind, which would defeat the purpose.

K. Not sure why this is necessary to do but I guess it could work.

>Cover a Blister
>
>Hiking with a blister is painful, especially if you’re trekking for miles at a time. Cover the affected, or potentially affected, area with duct tape to avoid any further pain.

Duct tape isn't a painkiller. It will still hurt like a bitch. Also, if you place tape on a blister and then remove the tape later there is a chance you will remove the skin covering the blister making for a nasty open wound which can get effected. Buy some moleskin and put it in that first aid kit I mentioned above.

>Fix Your Glasses
>
>If your glasses break straight down the middle, use duct tape to put them back together. Simply wrap a thin strip of tape a few times around for a quick and easy fix.

Sure. Again, this is another ok use of duct tape but other repair supplies will work better. Good Job! That makes 3.

>Mark a Trail
>
>If you’re hiking in unfamiliar territory, with few trail markers, make your own. But, don’t leave them on the trees; take each strip off as you find your way back.

Don't do this. Unless it's bright duct tape you won't see it well enough to mark a trail with. If you are concerned you are going to have to do this bring some bright flagging tape or do what they did in the old days, mark your path on the ground. Sticks placed in the shape of arrows marking the way or rock cairns have been used for millennia for marking trails.

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>Fix a Broken Tent or Fishing Pole
>
>A broken tent or fishing pole should be replaced or fixed in a shop. While at the campsite, however, use duct tape for a temporary remedy. The tape will hold for a few days so you can still make use of the items when you need them most.

Tape alone won't work, you'll need a split of some sort to complete this. I'd say this is the 4th ok use for duct tape that proper repair supplies can do better.

>Keep Your Tablecloth On
>
>On an especially blustery day your tablecloth will blow around the campsite. Tape the sides down to keep it on the table.

Who uses table clothes while camping? I guess this one is fine if you're into that sort of pageantry.

>Fix a Leaky Water Bottle
>
>Place a thick strip of duct tape over a crack in your water bottle. Reinforce the patch with two or three strips to be sure no water leaks on you or in your backpack.

Yup, this one works but like the above proper repair supplies work better. We're at 5!

>Keep the Cold Out
>
>Wrap duct tape around the seams of your tent windows. On an especially cold night, this will help keep as much of the chill outside as possible.

No it won't. Duct tape has no insulating qualities. If anything this will put you at risk of suffocation if you don't have proper ventilation in your tent.

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I hate this clickbait-y shit.

I have been wanting to share my process with someone for a while now. I brew inside on an induction stove and I BIAB too. I also made huge messes trying to squeeze the bag and knew there had to be a better way.
My first thought was a colander with fewer holes so I made one.
I bought this colander:
https://www.chefsfirst.com/Winco-Colander-16-qt-Aluminum-With-Base-And-Handl-p/wncalo-16bh.htm
And then bought this foil tape:
K-Flex USA 800-TAPE-ALF-4 Aluminum Foil Tape, 4" Wide x 50 yd. per Roll, Silver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D4JDE38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_z2h7BbYF3X3DD

I sealed the top holes of the colander with the tape. This colander fits on top of my 10 gallon kettle and also fits in my brewing partners 15 gallon kettle. Both are Brubuilt.

When I’m ready to drain a batch and squeeze i move the kettle into the floor, lift the bag straight up and put the colander between the bag and kettle. I then use a wooden spoon to twist the bag and the lid from the kettle to squeeze and then repeat after a cold (or hot) sparge. Get a big bowl and pick up the bag and colander an dlet it drain while you heat up to a boil.

It works great and cost about $50 with shipping and all.
Looks like this in action:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/YqatRBUPTLrzTsG59

Search (or post) over in the Wyze forums if interested in a wrap. If you look hard enough I'll bet you could find someone still selling them. Electrical tape would probably work Ok for you, but use matte surface if possible. Before I purchased the vinyl wraps, I bought gaffer tape from Amazon (link below). Worked great and peeled off easily without any gummy residue, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/d/Duct-Tape/Mini-Gaffer-Rolls-GafferPower-8yards/B01JQKP0L8

Any hardware store will have it. I use this stuff around the edges of the vinyl curtain things and stuff this in the gap between the top of the raised window and the glass behind it. Literally just put mine in earlier this week - make sure you clean the window sill and edges so the stuff will stick properly.

If you want to get fancy, rope caulk is even better, and you can peel it off when you go to pull the window AC out.

You can also buy foam board and use that instead of the garbage plastic accordion curtains. Might help keep some of the noise of the compressor part of the window AC out as well.

Many options here!

Personally I've used this heat shield tape which is meant for reflecting heat but only ever took it to about 70C. Don't know if it'll unglue at 100C. Did a pretty decent job, making my bed heat up faster and stay warm longer while cycling the heater less. I also used this tape on my hot end before the silicone condoms were out but the heat was softening the adhesive, and I had to use kapton tape to secure it. Also worked reasonably well.

Your best bet would be to use T-Rex Tape. It is the strongest tape adhesive wise and will for sure get the job done

I use BCW 200 count boxes with a hard toploader taped to the top with transparent packing tape.

At the LGS these boxes cost me $0.50 for the box and about $0.10 for the toploader. The tape can be acquired at any grocery, department or hardware store for less than ten bucks. Cheap enough to simply replace if damaged, but durable enough I haven't needed to replace 1 in 3 years of use.

This is big enough for 100 double sleeved cards and a bit of room for tokens, counters and cards I am considering for that deck. The toploader holds the commander and it is obvious what's in the box. They are plain looking, which is a plus for, but white cardboard is a good surface for decoration and crafts if you feel so inclined. These also fit well into messenger bags an stack neatly for storage.

The biggest drawback is that these aren't waterproof. If you are worried about that line the boxes with the packing tape and understand that most waterproof boxes are just resistant and no normal deck will protect your cards while scuba diving.

Cheap tuning heads from Amazon. Start at under $10. I have used them. They are fine for cheapness. You can find heads at any price.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IK13YOO?psc=1

Plenty of string sets under $5

Amazon.com: guitar strings - $0-$5 / Acoustic Guitar Strings / Strings: Musical Instruments
LINK

New set of Bridge pins Under $3

For the Body Repairunder $5

Remove the strings. Tuning heads. Bridge pins. Discard them.

Remove all the masking tape. Carefully. Do not make the splits worse.

Clean the entire guitar well. Especially bridge and fretboard.

[3 Surprising Ways to Clean Your Acoustic Guitar [Tips & Tricks]] (https://youtu.be/H2AAGCkIzt4)

Gorilla repair the body. Take time. Cut exacting pieces. Do not tear.

Install new tuning heads. If existing holes do not align, search YouTube for how-to video. Do not force new holes with new screws.

Restring with fresh strings and bridge pins. Adjust truss rod.

You have a $20 Campfire/Beater/loaner/Busking guitar.

Pickup with preamp and controls? Add $5

EQ 2 Band Acoustic Guitar Pickup Piezo And Passive Preamp System Set Quality

These are just fine

Biggest investment is your time. And patience to do it right.

There are many varieties of carbon fiber vinyl. The one that gets the most attention, and is of the highest quality, is known as Carbon Fiber Di-Noc by 3M. This particular carbon fiber vinyl does have a texture. The texture and overall look is practically identical to that of real carbon fiber.

You can apply it to most wood products (plywood, OSB, MDF, HDF, ect...) however, the vinyl will show all of the lumps and gaps of what you apply it to. Thus, I would make sure you sand and finish your plywood before application.

If you are really worried about how well the vinyl will hold, you can coat what ever you want to wrap in a thin coat of 3M tape primer. This will give you an extremely solid hold, and is intended for high wear, and high usage applications.

Here is a link to where you can get Di-Noc at a good price:

http://www.amazon.com/Black-3M-DI-NOC-Carbon-CA-421/dp/B0062A7M2G/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1405249048&sr=8-3&keywords=3m+carbon+fiber+vinyl

Here is a link to where you can get 3M tape primer for a good price:

http://www.amazon.com/3M-Primer-94-Vinyl-Di-Noc/dp/B005LDG7HQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1405249149&sr=8-1&keywords=3M+tape+primer

So the tank looks something similar to what I have (just smaller). Does the lid slide into place? That's what it looks like in the picture at least. I have that, but I also have three locks on mine. One of them is similar to this here. The other two clips are these on amazon .


Now the size of the tank all depends on the snake. We started our retic in a 20G, but have switched him into a custom built enclosure once he outgrew it. From what I have seen, the length + width should be a tad bigger than your snake. I prefer to give them extra wiggle room to grow into, but that's also because all my snakes are super young.


I use these thermometers also from amazon. We place one on the cool, middle, and hot side. Or just the cool and hot side depending on the tank size. My toads use something different though. Since it is a tank, we had trouble keeping humidity in, but getting a larger water dish and using this tape on the OUTSIDE of the tank (so part of the screen and some of the sides) have helped tremendously. We also use a cheaper humidifier from Walmart in the room due to our climate.


I do use heat lamps at the moment until I get switched over to something else. The bulbs we use emit zero lighting and we have them connected to a temperature control thing, also found on amazon.


Now for water, you will need to get reptile drops to take out the bad stuff in tap water. That can be found online or at a local pet shop.

You would just have to modify everything for whatever type of animal you want to get. Also, the small little cage is for crickets. They go into the tubes and that's how you feed them to toads/lizards. Also, I would suggest purchases a snake from a breeder/reptile expo versus a pet store.

I used Vinyl tape and rewrapped mine. Definitely not the prettiest, but not awful and works great.
3M General Purpose Vinyl Tape... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HTGF2K

I'd definitely go with a saw (Bahco Laplander) over a hatchet. You're less likely to cut your thumb off with a saw, plus it weighs less.

Maybe add the SOL escape bivvy in addition to the mylar blanket? The bivvy is a lot better at holding heat in.

A small roll of duct tape could be very useful:

https://www.amazon.com/UST-Duct-Tape-Rolls-Orange/dp/B00YDQJ0OY

You're very welcome.

Yeah that's what I'd suggest ok I misread that. No, don't put the vapor barrier outside your wall panels. It would go wall, sound dampener, insulation, vapor barrier, panels. But something like this plastic sheeting would work fine. Maybe better than reflectix. If you go this route make sure to use tape that's also a vapor barrier. Duct tape isn't. This tape is and it's hella sticky and rated for more extreme temperatures.

Here's a picture of how I did it. It's not that difficult.

Try these they are a bit expensive but work really well, also you can get larger sheets if you look harder than the 2 seconds I did haha!

1. RAoA started on 4chan.
   
2. I should probably study probability theory.
   
3. If enough time passes, we can re-introduce ourselves.
   
   I'd love this thingie from my Holiday list, because "Christmas in July" is a real thing.

I personally find Reditape much more compact and just as decent for all your duct-tape needs. It's super easy to toss this in an FAK or any backpack/purse/duffel bag/etc.

I take my ninja 300 when I go camping on long trips. It's comfortable enough and gets great gas mileage.


Since the set gets uncomfortable after about and hour I highly recommend the ol' seat mod: mod here


For the mod I would use no residue duct tape tape here

Fair warning, adding acoustic foam won't help much with blocking sound. Its main purpose is to reduce reverb within a room. What you'd really need is to replace that thin glass door with a solid one like wood, steel, or fiberglass, however these are very far out of your price range. I suppose any amount of insulation would help in your case. You'll just have to experiment on your own. I found foam board insulation can be pretty cheap.

For soundproofing around your door, at the bottom get a door sweep, on the door frame install foam tape. Any gaps of air allow sound to easily pass through, you want to eliminate that. Measure the size of the gap before you buy the wrong size.

I've been using this stuff It's fabric so it won't stretch and tear like electrical tape. Doesn't leave a sticky mess if you need to take it off. And it's lighter weight.

My parts will be here today and I plan to install tonight or tomorrow. I have already upgraded my firmware which was really easy and took way less than the instructions said, under 30 mins start to finish.

I have not seen any videos for the 2016/.5 specifically, just some paper instructions. I may try to make a video for the more complicated parts. I’ve installed stereos and other accessories in previous cars, so this isn’t too daunting for me. However, I will recommend getting some plastic pry tools, as it makes the job 1000x easier and a lot more difficult to damage the panels. I have ones similar to these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BGW7LS9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9.jVBb88CA9VT and also fabric tape for wrapping wires and other stuff https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XPDVER2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EckVBbPYCQXN7

Additionally, if you installed the firmware yourself, I’m sure any car audio place would install the hardware for their hourly rate. So if you are uncomfortable, you could call around. The firmware was easy to install, but might be outside of the scope of a car audio installer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LWFO5P8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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If you want to re-apply to another mouse in the future use this stuff. (This is the same adhesive Lexips sell with their skates) You need an X-ACTO blade to cut out the shape and then re-apply to your ceramic skate and/or mouse once you're ready to re-apply to another mouse.

I do most of the time.

paper is the one that can be missing

I always have a pen, most of them time more than 1, and duct tape once you get down to a few feet left on a roll, you remove the cardboard core and smash it flat, makes it flat and easy to carry in the pocket. Never know when you will need duct tape.

Edit: Interesting, looks like you can buy it all ready to go, I make my own flat pack units but if anyone is lazy RediTape Travel Size Flat Fold Duct Tape

https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Gaffer-Rolls-GafferPower-8yards/dp/B01JQKP0L8

https://www.amazon.com/Duck-1017800-Advanced-Strength-Inches/dp/B002O16SGI