(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best electric plugs

1. Easy2Boot - http://www.easy2boot.com: Use this to build your USB bootable. You prep the drive with it, and then just drag and drop ISOs :D So easy :D thx, /u/craig131!
   
   
2. TRON - http://bmrf.org/repos/tron/ (official repo) : TRON is a great package allowing you to check systems, repair many types of damage to windows, and remove virii and malware. it is in this subreddit, if you care to look.
   
   
3. Portable Apps - http://www.portableapps.com : A great suite of portable apps you can run off your USB key. Firefox, Chrome, OpenOffice, ClamAV, and many others. Even games, but this is a tech question...
   
   
4. Sysinternals Suite - http://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/bb545021.aspx - The name is well known, and is quite an impressive suit. It speaks for itself.
   
   
5. NTPasswd - Available through Sardu. : I've run into a LOT of customers who REFUSE to give me their user OR admin passwords, and it's wound up being required to fix and backup their junk. Use ONLY for legit reasons, please.
   
   
6. Ninite - Http://www.ninite.com : A wonderful package site that lets you choose productivity, AV, antimalware, antispyware, and other apps and runtimes in ONE stub downloader. Simply choose the apps you want, and click "downlaod installer" It will download a file less than 300k in size that you can run on an internet connected windows PC, and it will download and install the applications you chose. You can even have task scheduler run it in silent, if you ahve the PRO subscription, and it will update the apps, as well.
   
   
7. 33 piece screwdriver set, made by "Pittsburgh" - http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/comfort-grip-screwdriver-set-33-pc-61255.html : Nice set, magnetized tips, and a socket driver with bits is included. Useful for most tasks.
   
   
8. 34 piece PRECISION screwdriver set - http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-tools/screwdrivers/33-piece-precision-screwdriver-set-93916.html : Once again, very usefull for smaller and small ODD bit types of screws. Made by "Pittsburgh" and even includes a flex shaft for getting around corners, if need be.
   
   
9. 100 piece SECURITY bit set. - http://www.harborfreight.com/100-piece-security-bit-set-68457.html : Trust me, I hate those little screws with the BUMP in the middle. This takes care of most, and even Apple devices in many cases. Not too shabby for the price.
   
   
10. 14 function digital multimeter - http://www.harborfreight.com/5-in-1-digital-multimeter-98674.html : Nice meter. Not a FLUKE, but not 50.2 googol dollars, either.
    
    
11. 5 Function digital clamp on meter - http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-clamp-on-multimeter-95652.html : Used for measuring current draw, is all I use it for.
    
    
12. 3 set of SAE/METRIX/STAR hex keys. - http://www.harborfreight.com/pack-of-3-folding-star-bit-and-sae-metric-hex-keys-94905.html : For the odd time you need hex keys.
    
    
13. 2TB HDD (USB 3.0, please) - Available at Newegg, of course. : Used for backing up customer data in the field as necessary.
    
    
14. Headset, plug in type. - On web, at radio shack, etc : Used for testing audio on systems. And keeping the peace.
    
    
15. Fold up tool bag - http://www.harborfreight.com/20-in-rollaway-tool-bag-61925.html : Used to hold your kit.
    
    
16. LAPTOP - Anywhere fine computers are sold : I can't stress this enough. I've been in situations where a tech has FORGOTTEN to bring a laptop, and had to borrow mine. It is SO great to be able to test the internet connection when they say it is down, and to SSH/FTP/Download needed things. GET ONE :D
    
    
17. MOUSE : Nothing sucks more for doing work quickly than a laptop trackpad, IMHO. Also, great for testing USB ports. GET A CHEAP ONE. Don't kill your Logitech G600!
    
    
18. A 2.1 Amp wall charger with at LEAST one USB port. - Available on Web : This can be a life saver!
    
    
19. Various USB charger cables. - Http://www.monoprice.com - Another life saving thing.
    
    
20. A VGA, a DVI, a HDMI, and a DISPLAYPORT cable set - Http://www.monoprice.com : For those days when it MIGHT be the cable.
    
    
21. A small spare LCD panel monitor! - Http://www.newegg.com : For testing those no display systems and laptops.
    
    
22. A spare USB keyboard - Http://www.newegg.com : Pick your fave junker :D
    
    
23. A USB battery pack! - Http://www.monoprice.com or Http://www.amazon.com : This thing has saved me a few times on the road when I forgot...
    
    
24. Cigarette lighter USB charger - Http://www.amazon.com : This thing is wonderful :) Make sure to get a 2 amp one :D
    
    
25. DC to AC car cigarette lighter inverter - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16882021190 : Yes. Laptops DO run out charge on the road.
    
    
26. A 4G Hotspot - Various wireless cell carriers : There are plenty of job sites without even so much as DIAL UP internet, and you desperately need a driver.
    
    
27. A cellular telephone - Various cellular wireless carriers : Phone calls, boss calls, 911, etc.
    
    
28. Universal laptop charger kit - http://www.rocketfishproducts.com/products/computer-accessories/RF-ACU9025.html - $69.99! I know it seems pricey, but it is honestly GREAT when people have a laptop that CAN'T charge due to missing brick, or WON'T charge and it MIGHT be the brick. Plus, you can leave your MAIN laptop charger at home!
    
    
29. 8GB USB thumb drives - http://www.microcenter.com/product/280099/8GB_USB_20_Flash_Drive: As pointed out, later, they can be obtained from Microcenter Online for $4.99 USD.
    
    
30. A lunch! Be sure to grab your favorite HEALTHIER snacks, like granola bars, REAL fruit juice, water, etc. If it will be a significant stay, be sure to grab sandwiches or lunch meat, bread, and condiments. Also, grab a cooler and 4 ice packs to hold it all and keep it cool. Bacteria BAD!
    
    
31. Pens, pencils, sharpie markers, and WRITABLE TAPE. Also throw in velcro ties for tidying up cables. It's a labor of love in some paces, but clients do appreciate it! Do NOT, however, velcor AC or DC cables together with network cables ;)
    
    
32. Pliers and wire cutters! You never know when something will get stubborn!
    
    
33. GMER on you main thumb drive! - http://www.gmer.net ! :Rootkit detection and removal kit.
    
    
34. HookShark - http://www.woodmann.com/collaborative/tools/index.php/HookShark - HookShark is a detector of installed hooks and patches installed on the system (only usermode for now). It scans through the code-section of every loaded module of each running process and compares it with the file-image. If it detects discrepancies it tries to determine the type of hook or patch and reports it to the user.
    
    
35. http://drp.su/ - DriverPack Solutions. : Download the DVD ISO via bittorrent, and there is a TON of drivers on the image. You do NOT need to use the installer. Just point to the appropriate driver directory and search subfolders. You should be golden.
    
    
36. Technibble support contract package and checklists. - http://www.techinbble.com : A good package of paperwork, covering your but in most cases. Grab it, and edit it for your business name, etc :D It is no longer provided, but there are similar packages :D
    
    
37. Network cable tester from http://www.amazon.com : It cost me $5USD and is a definite help
    
    
38. Platinum Tools EZ-RJ45 crimper, Platinum Tools EZ-RJ45 ends, boots, and a box of category 5E. : Http://www.amazon.com - This tool, ends, and cable are GREAT for running new cat 5e effectively. The ends are open on both ends, and you can slide the wires through in the proper order, crimp, and trim, all in one shot. Worth the price.
    
    
39. RG6 Quad shielded cable spool, RG6Quad compression fittings, stripper, and compression tool : http://www.homedepot.com - I use compression fittings for cable modem cable runs. I love the weatherproof ones, and they are easy to set up.
    
    
40. A "spudger" - https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/iSesamo-Opening-Tool/IF145-130 : This tool is GREAT for popping laptops. Thanks /u/wanderingbilby for reminding me!
    
    41, A flashlight. Preferably, a head mount one will be included, as well as small handheld, and normal sized. I prefer LED ones :D
    
    
41. T shaped Wall Tap (US), 2 to 3 prong adapter (US), and Outlet tester (US) - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081A4GEC?pldnSite=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0027B3KO8?pldnSite=1 , http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000X3FSAQ?pldnSite=1 : Heaven forbid, you plug something in of your kit and it POPS :(
    
    ■ EDIT ■
    
    Cleaned up the listings :D
    
    ■ EDIT ■
    
    NOT NECESSARY, but I have it... - I also have, available, a 1U Xeon X3210 server with 8GB of RAM and 2 160GB SATA drives in RAID1 as a "temporary" server if the client has a server go down and needs something up ASAP. I have them sign off that I am NOT responsible for any inadequacies in performance or functionality, it is MY equipment, I will support it 8AM to 9PM for 2 weeks, and at the end of those two weeks, I am taking it back. It is their responsibility to procure a replacement for their down server, and they are responsible for the PHYSICAL well being of my server.
    
    
    
    S/A

I have a lot of different Smart outlets being used around the home. It really depends on what your use is going to be.

For a cheap outlet where space is not an issues, these from KMC have worked well for me. They are pretty dependable even in areas with weak WiFi signal and the energy monitoring is nice for things like air filters or fans.

KMC also makes a nice multi outlet plug. I personally use this to control the multiple led light strips at my garage workbench.

For anything 15A, I would say TP-Link is the way to go. These have been great for me, but the newer HS105 does have a better form factor. I have used these for my garage fridge, windows AC unit, and tools at my workbench. There is an energy monitoring variant as well, the HS110

You may see that there are a ton of the cheap round shaped smart plugs on Amazon and other sites. I have found all of these to be almost exactly the same, no matter what company they come from. They work well enough for simple devices like lamps, but they have tended to have issues in anywhere, but perfect WiFi signal areas.

Let me know if you have any questions on this or any other devices. After a few years of upgrades, I am at over 110 smart devices, so I can tell you what not to get...

I'm thinking of building this with a 3D printed enclosure and a cheaper battery (so it doesn't cost a million dollars) and selling something similar. Any thoughts?

Build Tips:

The battery is expensive but I had one sitting around from an E-Bike that I built a couple years ago. Feel free to use any battery that can handle 200W of power draw and has a voltage of less than 60V.

If you plan of doing this make sure to use 14AWG wire for the connector and set the Boost Converter to 63v (3A for fast charger or 1.3 for home charger). As a note, for the GX12-2 connector the pins are numbered (found on the end of the connector) pin 1 should be positive and pin 2 should be negative. As I learned the hard way, solar charge controllers don't seem to work with the Pint so you need a boost converter.

Overall, the build isn't too difficult. Just hook up the battery to the input of the boost converter, set the voltage to 63v, the amperage to 3a (or lower if you want a slower charge). Then, wire the GX12-2 connector as described above. Attach the GX12-2 connector to the output side of the boost converter. Finally, switch on the battery to supply power, press ok and plug the connector into the Pint.

Sorry for the long post and happy floating!

Parts list and links:

Drok DC 8V-60V to 10V-120V 15A Boost Converter:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GFVI6R6/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_mUJ1DbTHCAJHC

uxcell Aviation Connector, GX12-2: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DC7KP8H/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_OWJ1Db2SHZ197

52V 17.5AH E-Bike Lithium Battery with Charger: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QJYWW9L/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_aYJ1DbT4W50EC

I'd go with this dimmer: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-TBL03-10E-Tabletop-Control-300-Watt/dp/B00A80756O/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=TTCL+100H&qid=1567435080&s=gateway&sr=8-4

It's pretty much the same, but handles LED more consistently (less flicker as you attenuate the voltage going into the light. Generally you don't have to worry about flicker, but sometimes it happens when you dim all the way down to like 10%. Dimmers for LED seem to handle at least that aspect better).

For power, you will need an extension cord unless you want to plug the light directly into an outlet just inches away. Usually, you plug the Quasar power connector into the extension cord and then you connect the extension cord into the dimmer and then finally the outlet. My suggestion, is to either buy the lightest weight extension cord you can find, just something really thin, as it will drag less on the light if you have it gaff taped to say, the ceiling / walls or anywhere else.

I started by using cheap 15 to 20 ft small extension cords and then finally moved onto using zip cord / lamp wire. The advantage to using zip cord is that it is very very light weight and can be hidden easily and the best part is that you can make your own cords extremely easily, any length you want and add plugs anywhere along the cord quickly by using add-a-tap plugs (allows you to connect multiple tubes to the same cord).

https://www.amazon.com/cord-lamp-SPT-1-black-roll/dp/B000WS87VY/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=zip+cord+18%2F2&qid=1567435425&s=gateway&sr=8-4https://www.hollywoodexpendables.com/product/add-a-tap-female-wire-plug-adaptor/https://www.amazon.com/Easy-Install-Add-Tap-Brown/dp/B01C2CFY2M

Creating your own cords is very very convenient and easy to do.

Thanks! I've just had a look at it and it looks like a work-in-progress project. I haven't found a single smart device advertised to work with it. Supported hardware list consists mostly of Z-Wave/Zigbee devices, which you need Z-Stick to access to in the first place, so this solution doesn't appear to differ much from Home Assistant + Z-Stick, except HA supports hundreds of devices. They also support a couple TP-Link Wi-Fi devices - TP-Link Kasa plugs, Kasa switches. This is a nice find! Some Kasa users are complaining about "Local only" mode visible in their app - which suggests they can work in LAN only environment. Kasa/TP-Link Light component in HA has local polling mode, and requires the IP address of a bulb, which confirms they are indeed local-only capable. Cool. That being said, TP-Link Wi-Fi based devices are even more expensive than Z-Wave ones. But Wi-Fi is Wi-Fi, it's not going anywhere, and God knows what happens to Z-Wave in future.

You didn't hear this from me, but you can. If you have the 10-30 I prefer that because it has a lower amperage rating, but lacks a neutral. With a GFI pigtail at 15A you can cut off the male end and expose the black, white, green wires underneath. On your nema 10-30 male plug you land the white on the center blade, the black on one of the side blades and leave the other side blade alone. Safe off the ground.

This is not safe because 30A is available and your device is rated at 15A. If there was anything but a direct short this GFI and anything plugged into it will melt and probably catch fire.

Let's make it a little safer. Connect the white like I said, but put an inline fuse at 15A on the side blade instead of landing the hot directly. Connect the other side of the fuse holder to the black wire from the cord. Put in a 15A fuse. There should be enough room in the big plug housing for it to fit. If not have the fuse itself stick out next to the cord.

It technically still isn't 100%. While the low voltage fuse can handle 15A. If it blows it may not actually break the arc. The thing is it has a chance better than not using it and will hopefully save the gfci part of the cord on an overload.

So what are we going to do to make it safer? This is for one and only one appliance, your bike charger.

To make it safer use this fmn fuse holder with this fuse 15A and even 20A is acceptable here, the package I linked has one of each. The fuse holder will need to be crimped to the bare wire and electrical taped over the crimped ends. This will not fit in the plug housing but otherwise should be used instead of the low voltage holder.

If you have the nena 10-50 connect the white to the center flat blade, the green to the opposite bent peg, and the black to one of the side blades, ignoring the other one. Insert the fuse holders in between the gfi and the nema 10-50 plug like I described above.

All this assumes the building super left the power on those circuits. I'd test them first before you get to deep in this project.

That would work but it would require your PC to run 24x7. The Orvibo device does this without a PC. But both PC and orvibo don't speak zwave or zigbee so it's not easy or off the shelf to integrate them with each other.

There are companies that make network IR blasters and I'm sure you could write a custom device plugin for smartthings (samsung has a really good diy community and gives people tools to do stuff like that) and hte device plugin could send the IR commands over tcp to the IR blaster.

This is all assuming their curtains have IR remote like mine do.

Orvibo device

IR blaster network device

The only problem is that for non zwave and zigbee devices, the Echo doesn't seem to pick up on them. For instance I have a Holms WIFI thermostat added to Samsung Smartthings using a community plugin and it works great, but smartthings doesn't share that device with echo because it's not a simple on/off zwave so my Echo is oblivious to it. I can't say "Alexa it's getting hot in herrrr lets take of all our clothes"
To her credit, I CAN say "Alexa who let the dogs out" and she will reply "who? who who who who?"

I've found this thread to be the most definitive:

https://gm-volt.com/forum/showthread.php?218442-2016-Volt-120v-EVSE-is-L1-L2-Conversion-Capable

Page 7 has the best 'wire this wire to this wire' guide diagram. Lots of good info all over the thread. Plenty of people saying it works fine, others saying it will burn your house down.

You could also buy an adapter for an electric dryer, which would have half of the wiring done for you already, then get a standard plug for the other end. Start with something like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002R0DXNM (making sure it matches the plug you already have, that particular one is an older style) Add on this to the other end:

https://smile.amazon.com/Leviton-5369-C-Connector-Industrial-Black-White/dp/B00002NAUA

The dryer plug could be long enough that you could cut the wire in half and add a different 220 style and a second one of those 110 ourlets, if say your parents house had one style and yours had another.

https://smile.amazon.com/Camco-PowerGrip-Replacement-Transform-55255/dp/B000PGVZ30

Or at least, that's maybe what friend of mine did...

15A (therefore 1500W) is the highest rating you'll find on conventional power plugs (and their sockets). Once you get over that, you're in to specialized plug territory. If you've ever seen an outlet with three slots that make a sort of incomplete circle, it's one of those (looks like this).

Unless there are some bonafide electricians in here who can say otherwise, I'd be consulting with your landlord in the first instance. They may need to get a sparky in to install a proper 20A outlet.

The dodgy alternative is get any decent extension cord, then roll the dice and just make sure you're not using all the top elements, oven and lights at the same time. The 1800W rating is presumably a maximum value. Most normal use wouldn't pull that much.

Good luck either way :)

That's some good diagnosis work.

There was a period in hi-fi history when receivers, pre-amps, amplifiers, etc. had switched outputs that you could plug other pieces of kit into, so that you only needed to switch one component on in order for everything to turn on. In that case, it was of minimal concern that the local ground for the hi-fi was different than the earth on the mains power since everything in the hi-fi that referenced ground referenced the same "ground" voltage. In that case, the need was for, say, a 12v potential, it didn't matter much if you have 12v on a rail and 0v on the ground (relative to the mains earth), or if you had 16v on a rail and 4v (relative to the mains earth), because there was no way to complete that 4v ground circuit with the 0v earth. Once you add components like PCs which may handle local ground differently (or reference it directly to mains earth), that +4v ground on the hi-fi has a route (possibly through the signal or or earth side of your signal cable) to the 0v ground on the PC.

Although grounding the hi-fi to your PC through a signal cable will work in a pinch, it's not a good long-term solution since you don't want the hi-fi influencing the local ground on the PC motherboard. It's probably better to ground it to the PC case since that's (usually) tied directly to the mains earth, but that assumption may not be true for all PCs.

Alternatively, get a power conditioner or power strip that has an earth lug you can use to tie the receiver ground to earth. I use an older version of this from the clearance bin, but there are many other options:
https://www.amazon.com/Monster-MP-HTS-1900G-PowerCenter/dp/B004U5QV4K/

If you're crafty and confident that your receiver does not have an internal wiring fault, and that your home's mains wiring is proper, you can probably figure out how to combine a replacement three prong plug, and a length of electrical lamp cord to connect the ground lug on your receiver to the earth pin of the plug:

https://www.amazon.com/Prong-Male-Electrical-Replacement-Extension/dp/B01KALFN78/

You should consult your local electrical codes and someone competent with electrical installations if you go with the second option.

Good luck!

have you tried it in another outlet on a different wall in the same room? That's not foolproof, but sometimes it is on a different circuit.

You may have a grounding problem in the entire house. because think about it: how long does it take the stereo to "come up" when you turn it on? 2 secs? That switch flip may be spiking the stereo and causing it to restart which could default to 'pass thru' on anything connected until it's up.

At a minimum, have an electronics savvy friend come over and ground test your outlets. It's not hard, it just requires a tool you likely don't have. A line conditioner will help and be relatively cheap, but it's a bandaid really.

A simple, inexpensive solution MIGHT be to put your stereo on a grounding adapter but that's only guaranteed to work if the outlet is grounded. If you do this and the problem does not go away, then you should call an electrician.

Bottom line is that stuff on the same circuit shouldn't be getting spiked like that from flipping a switch. Get it fixed soon... every flip of a switch is like getting a good hit in the head with a ball-peen hammer. the first 10 or 20 aint much, but then it starts to hurt and will eventually make you wonder why you're hitting yourself in the head with a hammer.

Not to be too much of a debbie-downer, but dimmable outlets are against NEC code.

> NEC 406.15: Dimmer-Controlled Receptacles. A receptacle supplying lighting loads shall not be connected to a dimmer unless the plug/receptacle combination is a nonstandard configuration type that is specifically listed and identified for each such unique combination.


In my opinion, either you stick with a non-dimmable outlet, or you replace the outlet with a tamper-resistent outlet that only permits special plugs. For example, Lutron's HDTR recepticle, coupled with their plug (you would need to chop off the male end of your floor lamp and replace it).

Alternatively, there's Z-wave options available for plug-in dimmers, like this one by GE

Sure you can get away with it, but if your insurance company catches wind of it in the event of a failure, you can kiss any payout goodbye.

I was going to suggest the same. Plugs are super easy to wire if you can find one that’s not pre-moulded.

Something like these for example. Looks like the hinge to change the angle of the cable: https://www.amazon.com/Straight-Residential-Polarized-Non-Grounding-，White/dp/B078GRFGHZ/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?keywords=ac+plug&qid=1556001223&s=gateway&sr=8-15

might be cheaper to buy a the DC power supply https://www.amazon.com/Pioneer-DDJ-SX-system-replacement-adaptor/dp/B00GQWO458

but if you're still thinking about the SX2, the main difference is DVS, RGB pads, and FLIP controls. otherwise it's about the same. if those things are necessary for you, it's definitely a good controller. it will feel almost the same as your current controller.

Can they be set on like a timer or do I have to manually control them from my phone? Also do you have a link for a recommendation? some of the ones I was looking at or like $80-$120

Edit: I found this one Iron-m WiFi Smart Power Strip Surge Protector

You’re right, I posted before thinking. Definitely replaceable with a hardware store end on the cheap though. You could even upgrade it to something like this: Journeyman-Pro 5278 15 Amp 125 Volt, Flanged Inlet, Black Commercial Grade, 2 Pole-3 Wire, Straight Blade, Nema 5-15 (With Cover/Cap) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6N0XFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_8cHYDbQADWAXM

Look for anything "tuya" and you can use a program called tuya convert to put on a 3rd party firmware instead of the one it comes with that requires the cloud. I just flashed four of these with tasmota and they are really nice and work without internet: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CVH7WPD

Iron-m WiFi Smart Power Strip Surge Protector, 4-Outlet 4-USB with 5-Foot Cord, Remote Control via Smart Phone, Work with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0721QD57S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_V9IKzb38D1MT6

TP-Link (and other brand) Smart Plugs like this one have energy monitoring on them. They are supposed to show you how long that SmartPlug has been in “ON” status today, the past 7 days and the past 30 days.
This particular one is showing runtimes of 17 hours and we aren’t even 12 hours into the day. Not to mention, this particular one is connected to a space heater that hasn’t been on for more than 10-12 hours in the past year, let alone today.

Not sure if this would be helpful. Amazon sells low wattage outdoor pet safe heating pads. 4-22 watts. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AZSR68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9SV2Db1T201DH

There is also a temperature sensitive adapter you can buy to use even less electricity. It only turns on below 50. HEATIT ET-21 Freeze Thermostatically Controlled Outlet On at 38F /Off at 50F https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074HVYDV1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MWV2DbREZCHBN

Sounds like the beginnings of carpal tunnel syndrome. Unless you find a solution to this problem, it will likely get worse so you need to treat the cause, not the symptoms.

Ever take a mig gun apart? The trigger is generally just a piece of plastic that activates a small microswitch (or in the case of some of the less expensive guns, it's just a couple leaf spring contacts). If you have to squeeze that switch so tightly that it's causing you physical pain at the end of the day, something is wrong.

I would begin by taking the gun apart and cleaning/adjusting the contacts so it only requires a light trigger pull to activate. If the switch is extremely worn, full of grinder crud, or has bent contacts, that might be part of the problem.

If that doesn't fix it, the switch itself is just controlling a low voltage DC signal - all it has to do is make contact between two wires. Anyone with some basic electronics knowledge and a little wiring skill could bypass the gun switch and make you an easier-to-activate switch. Could even be a momentary foot switch like this

If you want to get fancy and have a 2T function (momentarily press a button once for on, press once again for off) you could add what's called a latching circuit to the stock trigger assy. Adding on a custom made 2T switch would probably be pushing the limits of "reasonable accommodation" which is a legal term for small work-arounds that employer must make to help a disabled employee perform their job, but it is technically feasible and would only require minor (reversible) modification to the machine and a few dollars worth of electronics components.

Hope that helps.

This one

Smart Plug Mini Outlet Compatible with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant, TECKIN Wifi Enabled Remote Control Smart Socket with Timer Function, No Hub Required,White, 2 Pack (1 pack) https://www.amazon.com/Compatible-Assistant-TECKIN-Function-Required/dp/B07CVH7WPD

It's not something you have to "rig up," it's a common industrial product. That style is easy to activate with hand pressure if you want; not all of them are so easy.

There are even "drills in a box" that sit on a bench, have speed and direction control, and can be hooked up to a foot switch.

Yeah - lots of them. Was just looking myself.. Amazon search: thermostat plug

There are a few of them. Some are dumb and have a single on/off range, like for turning on a cattle water tank at 40f so it doesn't freeze. Like this one https://www.amazon.com/HEATIT-Freeze-Thermostatically-Controlled-Outlet/dp/B074HVYDV1

Some more connected, like dis: https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-Multi-Function-Thermostat-Countdown-Compatible/dp/B07PWCPG3G

It can be used but, you'll need to change/adapt the plug.

The PDU you linked to comes with a NEMA 5-20P plug. It has a sideways blade and will not fit a standard household 15 amp receptacle(NEMA 5/15R). So by default, you won;t be able to plug in the PDU at home.

But, you can get an adapter such as this one that will allow you to plug in the PDU.

Plugging the PDU into a 15 amp receptacle will prevent you from drawing more than 15 amps. The breaker will pop. But, up to ~15 amps, everything should be fine.

Here's a shitty cheap one for $15 + free s/h.

Here's a good OEM one for $60 + s/h.

Your call if $60 is worth protecting your $1,000 equipment. Personally, that's the route I would go.

Cheap power supplies are prone to heating issues and inconsistent voltage. Could work just fine. Could damage your equipment. It's a gamble more or less.

>Insignia

i have the same problem so i bought a couple of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017EUTHC0

ended up only needing 1 though because they are like 1.5" long and just one helped the insignia clear the brackets.

I have a 2015 EcoDiesel 4WD Tradesman Crewcab. Live in Virginia, US.

If fuel economy is big thing for you and/or you want to save on your diesel bill, I suggest the EcoDiesel. I have one and I get anything from 23-30 MPG depending on time of year and driving conditions.

> 4WD (winter)

Both have this option.

> daily commutes of 40 minutes each way 80 and 50 KPH roads

Ecodiesel should save you on fuel $$$ in the long run, but that depends on the price of Diesel vs. Gasoline in your area.

> once in a while towing of up to 7000 lbs

EcoDiesel can handle this like it's nothing. Tradesman comes with the full Tow Package.


The one NEGATIVE to the diesel is the warm-up time, which will be a big deal for you in Ontario. Make absolutely sure your EcoDiesel has an engine block warmer and the cord to go with it. I also purchased a male outlet and installed it on the front of my truck for easier extension cord access.

https://www.amazon.com/Kasa-Smart-Wi-Fi-TP-Link-2-Pack/dp/B01KBFWW0O/

Picked up one of these on sale, they work well

My bulbs are Merkury, available at WalMart. Inexpensive and I have them on 5-6 hours a day, they've lasted 12 months at this point

No hub needed either. For plugs I use these, no other reason than I got a good deal on them. I haven't had any issues with them.

$16.50 each on Amazon (when you buy 2--with Prime)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KBFWW0O/ref=twister_B078N74N8V?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this one from Amazon AC WORKS [XH515520] 15 Amp Household Plug to 20 Amp T-Blade Female Adapter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017EUTHC0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3v0xDbC5EHARE but it did not work cause the adapter seems to be different way. I rent an apartment that comes with this air condition and have this connector but I can connect it to my standard plate.

The deal is $40 for the pair (ref), individuals are still $25.

Also, are these the right ones?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-Link-HS100-Control-anywhere-KIT/dp/B01KBFWW0O/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541012089&sr=8-3&keywords=TP-Link%2BHS100&th=1

https://smile.amazon.com/TP-Link-KIT-HS100-Wall-Light-Electronic-Component-switches/dp/B01KBFWW0O/ref=sr_1_1?s=black-friday&psr=EY17&ie=UTF8&qid=1542865647&sr=1-1&keywords=plug

I think he might actually an adapter for ungrounded outlets - mhttps://www.amazon.com/Pc-Grounding-Adapters-Convert-prongs/dp/B0035GB4YC

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017EUTHC0/ Is this the correct adapter?

I have fully automated reboots using TP-Link HS100 (https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Required-Control-Anywhere-HS100/dp/B01KBFWW0O/).
I use ncat to send binary payloads to turn them on and off via a batch file like this:

echo cycling power for tplink1
..\ncat -v 192.168.1.37 9999 < turnoff.bin
timeout 10
..\ncat -v 192.168.1.37 9999 < turnon.bin

I then set a rule in awesomeminer to detect when the machine is offline for more than 5 mins and execute the batch file. I've also created batch files kill miners when they crash and doesn't require a reboot.