(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best electrical motor controls

You're going to get flex the first time you try to mill anything significant when Y is pulling on X, the fact it feels solid to you when you pull on it with your hands is immaterial.

A CNC mill needs a solid aluminum extrusion frame or better, full stop. Especially if you want to "take a quarter inch out of copper"

You're getting into the territory of non-trivial machining, and hobby grade equipment isn't up to the task, and the difference is reflected in price.

Also, yes the steppers are grossly insufficient, you're going to need to get a pair of something like this for the axis steppers, driving solid threaded rods or ballscrews. 3d printer sized nema steppers and belts will not provide the torque required, and the steppers we use will not put out the power needed to step the big boys under load. You'll need a more powerful PSU too, these larger stepper motors can draw at peak as much as all the steppers on a Prusa style machine combined.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012QFRKAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qaqUBbYKSTW5H

A latch solenoid should only be activated to unlock, and then only for a short time, lest it overheat. These should be fine for batteries. However, solenoids are generally pretty weak; any pressure, whether from spring or human pulling or warped hinge or anything will tend to bind them up. Car door locks are better. A linear actuator is very strong and reliable, but usually aren't short enough to be a latch.

You may be interested in a cabinet latch. This type has a nice "pop" open.

You can't use a speed control like the one you have linked. Those are for universal/brushed AC motors only; using one with a induction/capacitor motor like you have is bad for the windings. You need a VFD.

The advantage of using a VFD and induction motor is that you get full torque unlike what you would get using the AC chopping speed control like you purchased when used with a universal motor. Your only other option would be to use a DC motor, but then that gets very expensive pretty quickly.

If you do buy the VFD you should also get a 10K potentiometer to go with it; something with a big knob so it's easily adjustable and so you don't have to get clay all over your nice new VFD.

I would say that if you're going to upgrade the rods and such and have access to a 3D printer (which you will need to do that), just buy your own extrusions and build it yourself. Use a dual rail gantry to hold up the beefier 12mm rods to stiffen everything then get a 500w or so spindle and driver from Amazon. The default 3018 spindle is weaksauce. No sense buying any of it, you'd just be replacing it all. All the parts are available on Amazon, and better 3018 parts are available on Thingiverse.

Get a raspberry Pi and a Protoneer CNC Hat (my current solution for the 3018) or just get a cheap GRBL controller from Amazon. That way you can get the nice Trinamic drivers and such too if you want it to be quieter.

They are commonly used for fan speed or router speed controllers and for $20 well worth the cost. Harbor freight carries them or there a ton on Amazon like this one. I just zip tied the trigger on the drill all the way on then dial the knob up until I’m at the manufacturers recommended rpm (200 for my monster mill).

Buy a swagelok valve from here (paying full price is for suckers and these guys ship faster than Swagelok anyways). For reference you can get a brand new swagelok for less than $40 from this site. Just compare the part number to the swagelok website to check seal/o ring materials.

Buy a high torque stepper motor and hook it up to the valve. You will also need a stepper motor driver that can deliver sufficient amperage. This is pretty much the simplest/cheapest way to get 150 in-lbs of torque delivered to the valve. Theoretically you'd only need about 50 but better safe than sorry.

This is the cheapest and simplest way to get what you want. If you already have gear for pneumatic control (air tank, solenoids, regulator, etc) pneumatic might be cheaper but you also don't get fine position control with pneumatic so take that as you will.

How did you fit the drive sprockets, and what circuits did you use?

You mentioned off the shelf stuff, so I'm mildly curious.

And by gearbox, I assume you mean something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/Yosoo-Torque-300RPM-Gearbox-Replacement/dp/B01NCQTK3S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519191975&sr=8-2&keywords=200+rpm+metal+gear+motor

I would go back to the drawing boards and first understand how rgb led’s work and then look into pulse with modulation (PWM). I would agree with everyone else that voltage regulating isn’t what you need.

I’m assuming that your strips are rated for 12V and since they will be connected to 12V they are good in terms of voltage. Now in order to tune to specific colors you’ll need a PWM setup. You could use the pots you have in order to achieve what you want, but the LM317 or LM337 is not the correct route for this. If you want a simpler A>B setup that has dialed controls something like this would be what you would want.

Mini DC Motor PWM Governor 1.8V 3V 6V 9V 12V Speed Switch Uultra-small LED Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXR4TSD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qxYnDb7TCVTHG

That sounds like a cool project, can I ask what features are being added with IOT integration? I assume the loadbank is for testing the generators?

Here's a pretty good motor control video that explains the basics. If you post a picture of the diagram I can probably help you with the connection, it might even already be correct.

I'm used to magnetic motor starters so that's what I suggested but for such a small motor you can probably get away with a horsepower rated 3 pole switch like this and skip the overloads.

Those look fine but they aren't super powerful. The g shield can supply 2.5 amps so any motor that needs less power than that will be fine. If you are just cutting wood those steppers are fine, maybe shop around for something with a lower inductance, 13mh is pretty high. These guys look much better but you won't be able to get full current into them:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PNEPF5I/ref=asc_df_B00PNEPF5I5078529/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00PNEPF5I&linkCode=df0&hvadid=198064502357&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4174940156511751979&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032550&hvtargid=pla-323464553412#productDescription_secondary_view_div_1500259475627

Get a worm drive motor like this and at the point where the blinds are at the very bottom and the string is at the top tie a knot and attach one single string that goes down to the motor and also attach some little collars on the string permanently and add a 2:1 pulley advantage so when the motor pulls 1 foot then the rope for the blinds moves 2 feet and the collars will attach to limit switches so you don't break anything and you will be fine

BEMONOC Reversible 12 Volt Gear Motor 24 RPM with Worm Gearbox for Robot Parts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D2GQSLS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TyDSDb0QHVKSC

Compressors are already automated, they turn on and off based on pressure. If you want to control them further you need a contactor that can handle the current and the voltage. Your average smart plug typically can't handle the switching the current directly. You can use a smart plug to turn the power to the contactor's coil on and off.

Another option would be a normally closed valve on the compressors output. It might be cheaper than the contactor.

In most cases you will also require the services of an electrician to properly install the contactor.

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/1-Phase-Definite-Electric-8911DPSG32V09-8911DPSO32V09/dp/B07DFNR5FH/

This is probably your best shot, my guy:
https://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Motor-8-5Nm-Length-Router/dp/B077X9R2CW/

Amazon says it'll ship by Monday. You could even mail it back on Wednesday and probably get your money back if it's undamaged.

Does anybody have any recommendations on an acceptable quality 10 hp vfd that costs less than $450?

Is this one any good? https://www.amazon.com/Variable-Frequency-Inverter-Spindle-Control/dp/B010CJBVOC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511929845&sr=8-1&keywords=10+hp+vfd

I'm going to put the links in a comment, I think they caused my post to get removed due to spam filter earlier:

• 2X STEPPERONLINE Nema 23 Stepper Motor 2.83Nm(400oz) 4A 8-wire 6.35mm Dual Shaft - $96
  
  
• 2X STEPPERONLINE CNC Stepper Motor Driver 1.0-4.2A 20-50VDC 1/128 Micro-step Resolutions - $72
  
  
• 1X STEPPERONLINE 1 Axis Stepper CNC Kit 8.5Ncm(1204oz.in) Nema 34 Stepper Motor & Driver - $160
  
  
• 1X SainSmart 5 Axis Breakout Board for Stepper Motor Driver CNC Mill- $20
  
  
• 1X Adjustable DC Power Voltage Converter AC 110V-220V to DC 0-48V Module Switching Power Supply Digital Display 480W - $43
  
  
• Total: $391
  
  Don't necessarily have to use Amazon, but I'd prefer a US based company.
  
  Thanks!

I'd buy a bunch of 3D printer stepper motor drivers like this one, and use breadboard or prototyping board to wire them up to the Arduino board.

https://www.amazon.com/Pololu-A4988-Stepper-Motor-Driver/dp/B007MX9LVW

Not much involved in driving them. You have to set the MSx pins on the driver to set the microstepping ratio you want, then each of them accept a step/direction input which steps the motor one way or the other.

Just to chime in on these they are amazing and at ~$20 I don't mind having a spare or two.

If you want to get fancy you add one of these and you can control the speed of the pump too.

A PWM controlled fan is the first thing that came to my mind. Looks like some have done it before. https://community.home-assistant.io/t/pwm-controlled-fan-with-esphome-on-esp32/134113. Using https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07R4VCCPL + d1 mini perhaps?

https://www.amazon.com/Makermotor-Reversible-Electric-Gear-Motor/dp/B00LTM3AT6/ref=sr_1_20?ie=UTF8&qid=1503169148&sr=8-20-spons&keywords=small+electric+motor&psc=1

Something like this might work. If you look down at "Frequently bought together" there's a a speed controller. If you affixed a rod to the motor driver, and then affixed it to a pully wire it might work. You may need a more powerful motor though. It would definitely take a bit of engineering, but it should be doable.

Motor: https://www.amazon.com/HobbyUnlimited-Stepper-Motor-Length-Router/dp/B077X9R2CW

Driver: https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/TMC5160-BOB/1460-1250-ND/8440397

Oh boy time to buy a mill and convert it to a <$1.5k CNC mill to make small parts!

• mill $700 * .75 = $525
  
• conversion kit $619 (there's a bunch of companies making these)
  
• stepper motors $26 * 3

Motor speed controller