Reddit mentions: The best fabric decorating products

Good job (although I don't think you'll need that much maple ;) .) And hey, if you're crafty and feeling like making some guitar tools, you can use some of that maple, epoxy and a single-cut file (medium or fine) to make a fret-leveling file! I always keep some pieces of HD maple laying around, it comes in handy for all sorts of projects (plus it's strong and cheap!)

BTW, here's a link to Keda Dyes on Amazon, although they're available from their own site as well. The packets are small, but it's super concentrated (as are most powdered aniline dyes), so a little bit goes a long way. For $13 shipped, you might be interested in trying them out.

Here's a link to Fiebings Leather Dye, if you're considering giving that a go. Note that it's alcohol-based, so you can thin them out with alcohol if necessary (they're pretty heavy colors, so thinning would probably be a good thing; you can always add extra coats, but you'll have a lot of sanding to do if you put on too much!) Woodcraft and Rockler both carry some dyes as well, and Woodcraft is just a great place to shop anyway.

It wasn’t too bad! Depends on how many people you have at the shower really. I found this 15 pack of white onesies in various sizes on Amazon for $36: 15 pack onesies

And here’s a 24 pack of permanent fabric markers for $12: fabric markers

So say you have 30 people at the shower, you could get a couple packs of the onesies and 3-4 packs of the markers for people to share around, and it’d be around $100. Idk what your budget is, but that seems well worth it to me for your guests (and you!) to have a great time decorating the onesies, plus all the cute clothes you’ll get out of it! Everyone at the shower I threw had an awesome time with this craft, and thought it was a lot better than the sometimes corny games that can go on at baby showers!

Have fun!

Hello, Everyone. I am looking for help to fix my Bible.

I just got a Bible and the gold lettering on the spine was way off center, so much off center that I decided to look up how to remove the lettering. I learned that I could use rubbing alcohol to remove it and that's what I did, but it took the dye off the leather as well resulting in a less than flattering look. After it took the dye off of one part of the spine, I tried to remove more for the sake of consistency and it just turned out a disaster before I stopped and decided to look for help.

​

Here is a picture of the damage I have done:

https://imgur.com/a/KxrL3zo

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Here is some information that you can hopefully use to better help me: The Bible's cover is made of "Ironed Calfskin." The cover's color is black. When I was rubbing it, the dye that came off seemed to have a somewhat thick consistency. Before coming here I looked at products, but was overwhelmed. Here is one product I found called "Fiebing's Leather Dye":

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https://www.amazon.com/Fiebings-50-2046-BU-P-Leather-Dye/dp/B00XOXGUM2

​

But it says it's "For use on vegetable tanned or unfinished leather." I am not sure if my Bible is "vegetable tanned" or not. I also read about oil based and alcohol based dyes and don't know which is best.

​

If someone could point me in the direction of a good, high-quality dye and whatever I need to apply I would be super appreciative. This Bible is not just a show Bible to put on my bookshelf, but it is one I'll carry with me often and I'll place it on my lap to read, so if you don't mind I would like the dye to be as durable as possible so it does not easily rub off on my dresses or anything like that.

​

Thanks-a-million!

Well where to begin.

I cast using Polyester resin. specifically silmar41 sold by uscomposites. it smells but you do not need a pressure pot to make it work. did I mention it smells. I wear a organic 3m filter respirator when I cast. most of my casting is done in 3/4 inch pvc pipe for pen blanks with bigger sizes for larger items. I do have some cutting board molds for flat blanks. they work "ok" my favorite mold though is a silicone one. it is similar to these http://www.ptownsubbie.com/

I recommend heading down to your local micheals and buying some casting craft(brand of resin and activator as your first test. see if you like casting before spending a ton of money on pots and resins.

If you do and can handle the PE smell (some people are fine with it) then you can carry on with that. its cheap 5 gallons is like $130 but shipping is like $70. ( don't start out with 5 gallons)

next you will want some micas. https://www.amazon.com/Jacquard-Pearl-Powder-Pigments-32-Color/dp/B000BGSZFU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481252145&sr=8-1&keywords=pearlx gives you a good launching point. I have a bunch more places I get mine from now.

ok ok so you wanna do more

get a pressure pot and buy some alumalite. alumalite cures in an hour but has a open working time of like 7 minutes. so you need a pressure pot for it or you will have lots of trapped bubbles. alumalite is also great for hybrid castings (wood, pinecones, etc.)

anyway just the tip of the iceberg really. if you're on facebook there are a few good resin casting groups.

So idk about dying unless you’re open to a tie dye look but I think if you tape it off in sections you can probably use fabric spray paint for a cleaner look.
https://www.amazon.com/Tulip-ColorShot-Instant-Fabric-Color/dp/B00UY194NE/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=2D97KNR2ZGEHH&keywords=fabric%2Bspray%2Bpaint&qid=1554474071&s=gateway&sprefix=fabric%2Bspr&sr=8-3&th=1&psc=1
This posting on amazon has a lighter blue and a pink but idk if they are exactly the flag colors. But good luck with the project! Don’t listen to that other comment a flag shows you’re proud of who you are! 🥰

Oooooh. Yeah, liquefying the polish makes a lot of sense. I would be more inclined (for safety's sake) to put it in a shallow bath of hot water, but that makes a lot more sense.

Yeah, I would put black polish on and rub it in real good, then buff it, then put neutral on and use the lighter to burn it off. It put a really nice shine on the boots, but after doing this for two years or so, they started disintegrating. I was young and stupid, though.

Nowadays, i have a good routine for when I have scuffs on the leather. I use deglazer over the whole surface (fiebings is the good brand), then let it dry. Then I use leather dye (also fiebings) and apply it all over and let that dry. You have to be careful to apply it evenly, though, or you get streaks. Then I use lincoln stain wax generously (applied with a sponge or brush), and then buff the hell out of it.

This is the only technique I've found to really take care of scuffs, though. Polish (no matter how generously I apply it or how many coats) rubs right off the surface.

[deglazer] (http://smile.amazon.com/Tandy-Leather-Fiebings-Deglazer-2105-01/dp/B003SY712K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396971982&sr=8-2&keywords=fiebings+deglazer)

[leather dye] (http://smile.amazon.com/Fiebings-Leather-Dye-Black-4oz/dp/B000HHM20M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396972057&sr=8-1&keywords=fiebings+leather+dye)

Tie dye! They sell Tulip brand tie dye kits at Michaels that are like $25, less with a coupon, and they will dye a TON of onesies. We did it and they turned out great. We did like... 15 onesies, five bibs, ten burp clothes, a few t-shirts and nursing tanks for me and my friends, and still had dye left over. It was fun and easy and they all turned out adorably.

Edit to add: this was the kit, very straightforward to use, would recommend:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FV60TAS/ref=asc_df_B01FV60TAS5155873/

Dual Ended Salt and Pepper Grinder I love this idea so much. <3

Just for fun I want to see how many D things I have now...
Dye


Aw only 2. Well I suppose I can leave them. Total they don't equal your cap. :) Thanks so much for such a cool contest!

yay, something i can actually talk about since i use pigment powders regularly in my kits :D.

Here we go!, Yes, pigment powders will work as future has the consistency of water and makes it a great transfer medium. The downside...Pigment powder has the consistency of water and if the powder has any metal flakes, they tend to sink directly to the bottom and will need to be mixed properly throughout its spraying. While i dont use automotive pigments, I use

https://www.amazon.com/Jacquard-Pearl-Powder-Pigments-32-Color/dp/B000BGSZFU

I have only had trouble with the macropearl powders. clogged my airbrush something fierce, but every other pigment has been working phenomenally.

EDIT: I might try mixing them in Tamiya flats and clears to see if it would make a better transfer medium. Future is great cause its readily available and cheap!

I love love love leather dye it really is so easy. I have dyed coats, purses, boots, and a pair of pants so far. I use Fiebings Leather Dye amazon link. There are lots of tutorials out there but I'll tell you what works for me. This is for boots because I wanted them to last, purses coats etc were a lot less steps but anyway!

0-I didn't do this step because the chemical is illegal to buy in California but if you have a coated leather piece, something that's really shiny is usually how you would tell I gather, you would use a leather stripper here. But again I never did this.


1-Wash with Fiebings Saddle Soap


2-After it dries paint on your leather dye. I always did two coats although a lot of times it didn't need it.


3-After that dries buff the item to remove excess dye. If you forget to do that (like I do sometimes) dye will rub off on stuff.


4-Coat the item with something to perseve leather. I use either Obenauf's LP Boot Preservative or Obenauf's Leather Oil


That's it! And I definitely find the item looks a lot better after dye. The Obenaufs makes leather look amazing. And it's not animal oil so I like it a lot more than mink oil say.

> Yeah.. Just regular good quality multistrand oxygen free copper is it - anything else is pretty much nonsense.. The right gauge for the right length and power is all that is required. Personally I like the banana plugs that have the screw in terminals - just clamps the copper in place then inserts.. gold plated cost like 2 bucks a piece. Like these https://www.amazon.com/HXDZFX-Speaker-Banana-Plugs-Corrosion-Resistant/dp/B06ZZPBBW7/ref=sr_1_40?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1510756879&sr=1-40&keywords=banana+plugs

I've used this dye from Amazon before. Works really well!

It's pretty simple. My advice would be to make sure you follow the instructions, and do your dying outside or in a very well ventilated area. Also try doing variations of dyes, like duration of time in the vat and number of dips (dying it, then taking the item out to oxidize, then dying it again). You'll get a different product from different dying methods so just try things out to see what you like!

Here is the dye I used:

http://www.amazon.com/Jacquard-Indigo-Tie-Dye-Mini/dp/B003IIN7HO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1403654693&sr=8-1&keywords=indigo+dye

And if you are interested this is a great walkthrough I used as inspiration:
http://www.rawrdenim.com/2014/04/backyard-guide-indigo-dyeing/

Here is one more walkthrough that does a good job of showing you how different shibori techniques will turn out:
http://honestlywtf.com/diy/shibori-diy/

Good luck!

That's neat! What size tip do you typically use?

I found this white sharpie paint pen

This is the sharpest glow-in-the-dark I could find.

I think you'd want to line with the white, then do the color on top. Most glow in the dark stuff like this won't leave a very bright color or glow, so having the white under it will likely be needed to get the brightest color. It could look cool doing a thicker line of the color than the white, like the glow was reflecting on the close by metals.

Just my thoughts, I've obviously never tried it before so I'm not too much help.

Staining is easy, go to a shoe repair place (or Amazon, Michaels, etc.) and get some Fiebings Dye. Lots of colors to chose from. Comes with an applicator. let dry, then wax. If you have a buffer you can use carnuba wax, if not then you will need something like Halcyon or Paragon which can be applied and buffed without a mechanical aid. [It says "leather dye" but it works equally well on wood.]

If they need sanding visit you local auto repair shop that sells supplies for body work and look for the highest grade sand papers, they will probably be wet/dry variety and try to get a range that goes up above 3000. You actually aren't sand off wood with these, each step up is reducing the scratches on the wood to make it as smooth as it can be. You will have later use yourself for these if you have to clean up your own stems as they discolor over time, so you are just getting it early in life. LOL

one of the roller's advantages over the brush is even paint application (meaning, no streaks). on top of having a wider area (usually) so applications are faster.

depending on what type of material you used for the stencil, the methods differ.

if you used a freezer paper stencil, just make sure to iron it well. you can always test the adhesion by pulling/tugging at a corner (no where near the actual stencil of course). my general rule of ironing is that i should be able to go end to end with the iron and not have the iron snag on a corner of the stencil.

i've been using overhead transparencies (for reusable stencils) and i'm using elmers (i think, might be 3m) spray adhesive. i always make sure to apply a good portion of body weight on it by placing a large flat object (tray/book) and pressing on it.

if your stencil shifted, while applying paint, it's probably because there was no adhesive material to actually have the stencil stick to the shirt. just pinning the stencil to a backing isn't enough, especially if you're brushing. the shirt/stencil will (probably) wiggle.

also, if you're using acrylic paint on the fabric, it will fade/chip pretty fast. i'd suggest making the move/adjustment to fabric paint. personally, i'm a big supporter of fabric spray paint.

edit: i'm also a big supporter of several thin layers of paint vs applying it all in one go. it's entirely possible with the stencil you had, if you had let it dry a bit and painted some more white, it could've looked more even.

Well you could use spray dye like this or use regular fabric paint that you brush on. The regular fabric paint is neater and a little easier to control but your shirt will be STIFF as all get out, so the spray might work better, just remember to cover the areas not being colored with paper/painter's tape. Happy crafting!

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Dylon-Machine-Intense-Black-Powder/dp/B071LNN3XJ/ref=asc_df_B071LNN3XJ/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=214470891806&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1593205607677961920&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9045962&hvtargid=pla-413217499357&psc=1&th=1&psc=1

I've used this on a black patta x carhartt jacket made of ripstop material and it worked perfectly. Left the green patta x carhartt patch logo's perfectly normal.

I'd highly recommend. Just stick it in a washing machine (the whole bottle) with the hat and take the bottle out after one run and then do another run of the washing machine.

Hmm ok! Found it on amazon too. Sock stop huh? Interesting. Looks kinda good on those gloves. White and thick.
https://www.amazon.com/Fabric-Textile-Liquid-Paint-Protection/dp/B007QNJXI4

Thanks a lot. This looks pretty good. Considering it.

Though, I thought they would just have clear silicone like they use on these things. There is some and is clear but I want more. For more grip.

For starters, I used this dye kit because it was cheap and easy. Once the vat's set up, I soaked the shoes in warm water, dipped them in the vat for 30 seconds making sure the whole surface was covered, then (very quickly) rinsed them off in a tub of clean water. Let them oxidize and repeat about ten times, or until you're satisfied.

jumpsuit pictures: https://imgur.com/gallery/9Hi4QyK

coverall: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007EYZKT6?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

dye: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9HYQR9?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_product_details

i think i’ve finally done it! i saw someone else post this jumpsuit as a possible dupe and since it was on the relatively cheap side ($30 for my size) i bought it along with the rit dye in rose quartz and it looks pretty much exactly the same as the coveralls the glossier employees wear! i used about 7-8 gallons of boiling water and followed the exact directions on the rit website with two caveats: i used about 7/8ths of the bottle and i only left it in the dye for about 4-5 minutes, stirring the whole time. i think i’m going to take it to get the “glossier” embroidered on the chest as well! with the jumpsuit itself though: i originally bought one size larger bc i wanted it to be oversized and it was HUGE so i ended up exchanging it for two sizes smaller (for reference: i sized down to a 36 and it fit just the way i want. i’m 5’5 and 114 lbs) so i would reccomend sizing down!

In my experience black always turns out kinda purply dark almost but not quite black.

They sell these packs for pretty cheap. you can just buy a few and try it out if youre really into this idea.

Experiment. have some fun with it. Post your results

I don't know the difference between rit dye and the fiber dye.
Do you recommend use this for example?

https://www.amazon.com/Rit-All-Purpose-Powder-Dye/dp/B07THM1TCN

Or the typical Tulip All in one kit it's ok? Thx :)

Thanks.

I was already aware that in general you could use mica for soap. I was curious if there was something special about Crafter's Choice or other soap supply versions of mica, compared to something like this that's marketed for stamping.

Modern leather has a top-coat that is essentially paint. From your photo, it looks like only the top coat has come off, the leather seems ok to me.

When this happened to my E46, I re-dyed it with black leather dye, then a new clear top-coat.

Here's what I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHM20M
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VQUCO3O

Warning: a little goes a LONG way. You barely need to use any dye. Likewise with the top coat: do a really thin coat, let it dry, and see how it looks. Apply additional coats until it feels right. Don't overdo it, and don't lay it on thick.

Alternative:
Others have reported good results with this leatherique kit:

http://www.leatherique.com/steering-wheels.html

It looks awesome! So you just used something like this?

I wouldn't say that one is more complicated than the other, it's indigo, and then a couple mix-ins to start the reaction.

Everything in theory, right?

That said, I'd say that the one that /u/tab338 suggested should be fine, and is pretty commonly used. You can even pick it up on amazon if you've got credits there to burn.

I'd love to see your results... please keep us posted


"natural" indigo dye

http://www.amazon.com/Indigo-Kit--Natural-Clothing-Method/dp/B002E32N4W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1383142426&sr=8-1&keywords=natural+indigo+dye

medieval euro style

http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~marc-carlson/leather/ld.html

Hey! I had this same question when I started out. I've done several pipes and Fiebings Leather Dye is what I used for each one. It's fairly inexpensive and you get plenty to make a dozen pipes.

I would sand my pipes down to around 400 grit, then dye with black, then start the sanding until it was almost entirely gone. Then I'd dye the color I wanted the pipe to be. It causes the black to really accent the grain and causes it to pop.

Good luck with your pipe!

I would think a fabric or leather dye would be your best bet. It's not going to fix it per se but it'll look better

https://www.amazon.com/Fiebings-50-2046-BU-P-Leather-Dye/dp/B00XOXGUM2

I think it'll block out too.

I've used her Yellow Label once and don't remember it bleeding but I also didn't have a deep red.

On the other hand, I do have some experience with dye bleeding and recommend picking up a bottle of Synthrapol. To quote the person who told me about it:

>Its whole job is to remove excess unbonded dye from things. I’ve heard people say that Dawn does the trick too, but I can’t vouch for that.

You will have to use some type of wool wash or human hair conditioner to soften your knits up though, the Synthrapol will strip them of any lanolin/make them feel scratchier than before.

Could also be something like this stuff, which is usually non-toxic, and used pretty often in the city.

There's a special spray paint for fabric called Simply Spray. I used it on a vintage sofa and it worked great. It's kind of pricey and you need a lot but it really does work.

https://www.amazon.com/Simply-Spray-Upholstery-Fabric-Paint/dp/B0077CA6MG?th=1

used this to get rid of the fading on my black vietnam hat. Worked like a charm, its like spray paint, but fabric dye.

They make different dyes for different types of fabric. You should be able to get one specifically for synthetic cloth.

Edit: Something like this could work. Rit Rosequartz Liquid Dye, 8 oz, Rose Quartz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9HYQR9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7jf1Db6H1AQVJ

I wonder if an indigo dye kit would work? Something like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Indigo-Kit-Natural-Clothing-Method/dp/B002E32N4W

I've used this stuff

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LEM6UOI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works amazingly well. It doesn't stain and it's non-toxic

A lot of people also use this. It worked well for me and wasn't too hard to mix up.

Synthrapol is also another option for fixing dyes. I use it for jeans and hand-dyed fabrics as well.

Here’s a pretty cheap kit. Nothing super fancy but it will get the job done. I’ve used it without soda ash before and had no issues. I get 10 shirts out of a kit but also have some colors I don’t like left over. Also available at WalMart I believe, but expect to pay a little more

Non-mobile: this one.

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

https://www.amazon.com/Fiebings-Leather-Dye-Black-4oz/dp/B000HHM20M/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=leather+dye&qid=1562943416&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Get the Jacquard Indigo Dye Kit

They were acrylic fabric paint! (these in particular)

http://www.amazon.com/Jacquard-Pearl-Powder-Pigments-32-Color/dp/B000BGSZFU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1449547634&sr=8-2&keywords=pearl+ex

"Pearl Ex Powder Pigments"

Tbh it's quite simple. Just purchase this and follow the steps.

This one

https://www.amazon.com/Fabric-Textile-Liquid-Paint-Protection/dp/B007QNJXI4

https://www.amazon.com/Dylon-Machine-Intense-Fabric-Laundry/dp/B071LNN3XJ

https://www.amazon.co.uk/New-Dylon-350g-Machine-Pods/dp/B071WKCM8F

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Title | Faceup Stories: 26 Monster High Twyla
Description | « M A T E R I A L S & T O O L S » with affiliate links⤵︎⤵︎⤵︎ ★ Painting Materials ★ ◦ Faber Castel Watercolour pencils »»» http://amzn.to/2kc4HIP ◦ Schmincke soft pastels »»» http://amzn.to/2kD9j7X ◦ Pearl-ex pigments (shimmer) »»» http://amzn.to/2jfk6J8 ◦ Tamiya Acrylic Paint Clear (gloss) »»» http://amzn.to/2jGSpF6 ◦ Synthetic brushes in various sizes ◦ Water colour paints »»» http://amzn.to/2kDdoc7 ◦ Eraser »»» http://amzn.to/2jfoJmD ◦ Sharpener with replacable blades »»» http://amzn.to/2j...
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This will be my 3rd stressless recliner. I've used Fiebings Dye on my first two that were badly sun faded and it worked really well. I think I paid $40 or $50 for those and thought it was a killer deal.

This one shouldn't need dye, just a thorough scrubbing and conditioning. The wood was fortunately just caked in dust, I got very lucky on this one.

I got it off Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/Jacquard-Indigo-Tie-Dye-Mini/dp/B003IIN7HO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1404262447&sr=8-1&keywords=indigo+dye

Price went up on it though and its not offered on Prime anymore :(

Dye:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HHM20M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Clear Coat, Basically:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BCQ2JM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Dye Applicators:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013SNXF1Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also used a paint brush for the resolene ,and did 3 coats of the dye(probably depends based on how bad your's is), and Three Coats of the Resolene, and let it dry between each coat and overnight before using it.

If I remember correctly /u/mfarmtown uses/used this one. Correct me if I'm wrong though.