(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best fluid sealers

It's easy lift the frame, don't remove back, just the front long bolt. Stick the front wheel in a milk crate. I can have a carb in and out pretty quickly.

Where is this airleak? I've never had a prob with an airleak at the carb on any of my hobbits...and i've owned a bunch of them.

Try this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-80062-High-Gasket-Sealant/dp/B000HBGHB8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407247928&sr=8-2&keywords=gasket+sealant (you can get at local autostore)
from the intake of the cylinder to the intake itself, from intake to carb.\
It's also great for base gaskets too! Creates a good gas resistant seal, while not being permanent for easy removal later. Better then silicone crap that just squeezes out of the mating area.

IMO, the phva is just going to run like shit on a hobbit. The stock carb pushes the best velocity of gas/air to that cylinder on a hobbit.

Also not having an airfilter could potentially cause problems by not have any back pressure. I've always ran the stock airbox with my stock carb other wise, they would run like shit.

On my Big Green Egg I used a Rutland gasket and adhered it with Permatex ultra copper. This is a popular combination in Big Green Egg land. Many use 3m Super 77 spray adhesive instead of the Permatex.

The BGE is ceramic, not metal, but I don't see any reason why it shouldn't work. As with sticking anything to any surface, the most important thing is that the surface is clean.

This stuff is great for sealing up the gas key.

thanks for pointing me in the right direction.
http://www.amazon.com//dp/B0002UEOPA

Hmm, okay. This is what I purchased, exhaust manifolds is one of the product applications. Should be okay, right?

If you're confident that what you see is the location of the leak, try tightening the plug. If that is impossible or tightening it fails to stop the leak, the plug must be removed and the threads of the plug must be coated with something that will seal the threaded connection. There are many products out there that provide a waterproof seal to pvc threads. This is my favorite. By far. Very user friendly. Never fails.

Yeah, but that's not quite the same as threadlocker - https://www.amazon.com/d/Threadlockers/Loctite-492143-Temperature-Threadlocker-36-milliliter/B0002KKTR2

Get some Loctite red: https://amzn.com/B0028OJAIY

(use blue if you want a less permanent fix)

this shit actually works if you want to give it a shot
https://smile.amazon.com/BlueDevil-Head-Gasket-Sealer-ounce/dp/B000NOO798/ref=pd_sim_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000NOO798&pd_rd_r=MGCPVAYY8G48R6XY7FYB&pd_rd_w=Jan53&pd_rd_wg=Y8clP&psc=1&refRID=MGCPVAYY8G48R6XY7FYB

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81878-Copper-Silicone-Gasket/dp/B01LZ7WZAT/

Loctite the threads, makes them much harder to remove -

http://smile.amazon.com/Loctite-37421-Heavy-Threadlocker-6-milliliter/dp/B0028OJAIY?ie=UTF8&keywords=loctite&pldnSite=1&qid=1463011506&redirect=true&ref_=nav_ya_signin&ref_=sr_1_3&sa-no-redirect=1&sr=8-3

Just ordered this:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24005-Strength-Threadlocker-Squeeze/dp/B0013K3YRW

This:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEOPA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_Z6dMAbCVK6JPM

was mentioned in this thing:

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2811140

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HBGHFY

Put a Rutland gasket on with permatex ultra copper rtv. You’ll never have to put another gasket on

Rutland Inc Gasket Kit Tape 7'x5/8" 95-6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000MIPB6S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H-DxDbD9RZRZZ

Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEOPA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l.DxDbSSQRWPR

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-85144-Right-Stuff-Gasket/dp/B000HBNU4U/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=gasket+maker&qid=1569479122&sr=8-15

Not a bad idea, especially if you just go with regular M6 flange nuts, but you'd probably need to use high temp loctite.

Pick "surface insensitive" a.k.a. "oil resistant" while you're at it. About the same price, but much more universal. Also, in some cases gel is more convenient. Here's the stuff I use:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBM5TQ/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HBM564/

Aviation Form-a-Gasket.

I used to work on aircraft and I have a jar of this around from over ten years ago. It does not dry up or cure. It is like a messy tar. Outside, exposed, maybe dirt or dust would eventually form a skin.

Pro Tie 33529 SAE Size 48 Heavy Duty All Stainless Hose Clamp (Pack of 4), 2-9/16" to 3-1/2" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W6MBQIK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

LEDAUT 2" x 50' Titanium Exhaust Heat Wrap Roll for Motorcycle Fiberglass Heat Shield Tape with Stainless Ties https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011B99B0I?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Permatex 81878 Ultra Copper Maximum Temperature RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, 3 oz. Tube https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002UEOPA?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I use this: http://smile.amazon.com/Permatex-81878-Maximum-Temperature-Silicone/dp/B0002UEOPA

Sometimes the hot wax melts the hot glue and then the wick travels which can get mighty dangerous.

Nothing like a test run to find out. If it fails try this instead.

Normally you fill the gap with high temperature silicone sealant. Liquid tape usually can't handle the heat from being that close to the die.

This is true. I should clarify that OP should check for these things himself...like go do it right now..it seriously just takes a minute. if you don't see these signs....you PROBABLY don't have a blown head gasket.

but you SHOULD still take your car to a second mechanic to do a pressure test/blown head gasket check IMMEDIATELY for a second opinion/confirmation of whether you do or do not have one.

and they confirm there is one, and if it's in it's early stages, like you said....they have products like this that might fix it without having to spend thousands to tear the engine apart.
http://www.amazon.com/BlueDevil-Head-Gasket-Sealer-ounce/dp/B000NOO798

do not just go out and buy that and pour it into your engine by the way, go talk to a second mechanic. if they confirm you have one, ask them their opinions about it, etc. i just posted that link to show you that there are products to seal a head gasket leak if it's in early stage leaking, and not yet past the point of repair

my main point is that blown head gaskets can easily be mis-diagnosed, or intentionally mis-diagnosed to swindle people out of money. and if you do have one the cost of fixing it varies from $50 to "total loss, time to buy a new car" depending on the severity of the gasket leak.

It's leaking from under the under the gas block and around the gas tube. If it's leaking while it's new, it will only leak more over time. High-temp RTV would be a temporary fix. Don't get any in the gas port or inside the gas block. You can remove the gas tube and put some around the tube. Don't get any inside the tube.

I'm curious as to whether the barrel was dimpled for the set screws. Anyways, if the gas block and the barrel are not a good fit, your best bet would be to go with a clamp-on gas block--my preference over set-screw. There are a lot of options at just about every price range.

I would still check to see if there are any other issues with the gas system. Is the gas key staked? Is there any leakage between the gas key and the bolt carrier body? How tight are the gas rings between the bolt and the cylinder wall of the bolt carrier? If they're too tight, it might take some more shooting before they loosen up.

One more tweak to the products added to the breech seal and compression chamber air transfer port:

Use Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant over the air transfer port, and use Elmer's No-Wrinkle Rubber Cement over the breech seal. This not only improves the seal just a little bit, but also keeps your thumb cleaner since you are pushing down on dried rubber cement instead of tacky gasket sealant when you load the pellets.

I'm now getting between 560 and 580 fps using 7.2 grain .177 Daisy Pointed pellets. That's about 5.2 FPE, which is not too shabby for a gun that can be found for $65.

My only problem now is that one of my two guns shoots high, even with the rear sight adjusted all the way down. This is the opposite problem that many reviewers deal with, where the sight won't go high enough, because the gun shoots low. I guess I'll try some heavier pellets in that gun and see if that brings the POI down. Not a bad problem to have though, I think.

BTW, I'm also posting stuff on the GTA Forums under the pseudonym "Whirligig." The Crosman folks suggested that I post my experiments and experiences with the Benjamin Trail Nitro-Piston air pistols there.