Reddit mentions: The best hardware nuts

You can get vinyl wrap from a number of locations online, often used for automotive panels. I had leftovers from a furniture project that used a black wood grain vinyl wrap for drawer fronts. Amazon link below. I just used that because it was handy. It worked great, but if I did it again, I might search for a faux carbon fiber print, which looks really cool for ... anything.

I just cut a 1/2" plywood sheet to 24" x 24". Drilled and countersunk the mounting holes for the wall studs, and drilled holes for 1/4-20 threaded inserts for the VESA mounting plate. Big wood screws probably would have worked too, but the threaded inserts seemed like a good idea. Then I sanded the panel, vacuumed it thoroughly to get the dust off, then applied the vinyl wrap, which is just a big sticker. You never want to completely remove the peel away backing from the vinyl sheet before applying it. It is too sticky and easily ruined if it sticks to itself or you try to peel it off of another surface. Peel the backing sheet about 4", stick it to one end of the panel surface, then slowly and carefully rub the sheet flat across the panel while pulling the backing sheet away progressively. You only get one chance to apply it correctly. Trying to pull it off of the panel will likely tear up the plywood. Then use an Xacto knife to trim any excess, and wrap the ends like a present. Finally, mount it to the wall with long drywall screws, attached the VESA plate, and hang the chassis.

• Vinyl sheet that I used - Anything will work
  
  
• Threaded inserts
  
  
• 1/4-20 x 1/2" Truss Head Screws
  
  
• VESA Mounting Plate
  
  
• Black Cable Mounts - Must be screwed to panel or will eventually pull the vinyl sheet away from the panel from the weight of the cables.
  
  
• Slim USB DVD Drive - Sits on top of the power supply.
  
  I taped the DVD drive to the power supply with this, which is thick, super strong, and yet removable without shreading or leaving any gunk or glue behind. That tape also works fantastically for mounting LED strips, the best that I have tried so far. It's rubbery and doesn't feel super sticky and can be pulled off fairly easily - at first. After about a minute, it bonds really well to any surface, then takes a lot of effort to pull up again. Great stuff !!
  
  

So I've started buying the parts to see if I could make this thingamabob as well. It looks so useful!

One thing I think I've discovered while researching: I think it might not be absolutely necessary to buy the exact same chuck that the original maker used. I'm thinking any 1/2" threaded chuck would do. Here's my reasoning: I thought at first that the threaded rod coming off the lever piece would screw directly into the chuck (and thus it would be important to match up the threading of the lever shaft with the threading inside the chuck. But now that I look at the step-by-step instructions on the original maker's webpage, the lever shaft is screwing directly into the nut he's epoxied onto the chuck. I think the lever shaft screws into the nut and then just moves deeper into the chuck when he adjusts the height of the piece, never actually touching the threads of the chuck itself. I ordered the same lever you did, and after taking it down to a hardware store and playing with that little gadget that helps you determine threading sizes, I found out the lever shaft on this one is threaded M8 1.25 (metric). That's definitely narrow enough to fit into the 1/2" thread inside the chuck.

I came just 'cause I was thinking if you were getting impatient about the delivery time of the chuck you ordered, I think you could get a different (but still cheap) 1/2" chuck on Amazon with Prime and get it lickety split. This is the one I got, but it appears to be out now. :(
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LDSSNP2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This one looks like it might also work:
https://www.amazon.com/Eyech-Keyless-Universal-Replacement-Electric/dp/B078H9N23D/ref=sr_1_26?s=hi&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1525220991&sr=1-26&keywords=1%2F2+keyless+chuck&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
Anyway, just a thought. As it turns out, I'm not using the one I bought, because I remembered I had an old . drill of my dad's, and I just took off the chuck and am using that one.

For epoxying the nut to the chuck, I ended up buying Original JB Weld at the local Home Depot, simply because it was the strongest they had. I haven't tried it yet.

Speaking of the nut, I held up my M8 1.25 nut to the chuck, right where the guy showed he epoxied his, and wow, there's just a tiny TINY about of metal-to-metal contact available there. I'm starting to think about how difficult it will be to get that nut on there centred, and how well it will stay. As a possible solution, I bought some flanged nuts of the right size, in hopes they'll provide more surface area for the epoxy. I went to two stores in my area, and they didn't have a bunch of metric hardware, so I just ordered these on Amazon. Fingers crossed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077HSXHPV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm now wondering how to get a threaded shaft that screws into both the lever and the nut. The lever assembly I got just has a bolt screwed into the end, so threaded one end and a hex cap on the other end. What I really need is a threaded rod. What I might do is just get a M8 1.25 bolt and hacksaw the cap off. There's a big fingers crossed moment.

Hope your build is going well! Thanks again for this great post!

Second on Augustus' recommend of 1800 Destiny-- they have some pretty affordable spider+holder options in the $35 range that use M3 threaded rods, rather than thin vanes -- they're a little thicker, but will make a world of difference in making it easy to center the secondary, providing a solid mounting.

On one of my smaller project scopes, I used an inexpensive 3 vane 1800 Destiny spider with M3 threaded rods to hold the secondary, keeping it centered and nice and tight. I used a hacksaw to cut off the excess rod so that it's not sticking out too much.

You can see it in a recent build thread I shared last night:
https://imgur.com/a/35LET6w

If you look at the secondary assembly above, I have nuts on the inside of the tube, attached to the threaded m3 rod, and nuts on the outside. I'll likely change the outside fastener from regular nuts to knurled thumb nuts, like these-- https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Knurled-Thumb-Collar-Plating/dp/B07LFSNNSK which only cost a few bucks and make it much easier to adjust and center the assembly (loosen the inner nut to create room for movement, and then tighten or loosen the thumb nuts until the secondary is perfectly centered in the tube). Once set, it usually doesn't become undone, but having thumb nuts makes it easier to make small adjustments and fine tuning at the eyepiece, to ensure perfect centering and even illumination of the primary mirror.

Sure! I got into it pretty heavy with a grand or two in brewing equipment at one point. A seltzer kit is pretty basic because you don't have to boil or "make" anything, but the gear will still nickel and dime you to death:

• C02 cannister - $53 + ~$20 to fill it. They ship empty.
  
  
• Regulator - $50. Allows you to control carbonation rate and serving pressure of your beverage
  
  
• Corny or Cornelius kegs. $50-80. Fizzy bubble storage.
  
  
• Locking beverage and gas connectors. $10-20. They'll be the same basic type as the keg valves (Ball lock, in this case) but one is for gas in and one is for beverage out.
  
  
• Beverage line and connection barbs. ~$20. Allows you to dispense delicious fizzy bubbles from your keg.
  
  The rest of the cost is going to be in refrigeration and faucets, if you want to go that route. You can also get party faucets like you see on commercial rentable taps which do just fine but a nice chrome faucet looks and works better if you have the right setup.
  
  Assuming you drink ~3 cases La Croix a week at $3/case (12 pack) that would end up around $36-40/month which would take 12-14 months to even out if you end up spending $500 or so on the entire setup, but that's retail and that's assuming your La Croix is only $3. We can only find it around here for $5 :/ Check Craigslist frequently and you'll find deals from people like me who need to get rid of their equipment en masse. Cost of the seltzer is almost negligible if you do plain fizzy water. If you do citrus I think I used ~20oz for 5 gal of my last batch which was 15-20 lemons/limes. A 5 gallon batch equals out to around 50 12oz drinks so the cost of 4+ cases of fizzy water is cut down to the cost of 20 lemons or $5-10.
  
  tl;dr- initial cost is high but it will pay for itself in a year or less and think of all the cans that won't get dumped back into the world.
  
  Edit: If you can find a system like this you'll be golden. It has all the parts I just listed including a nice chrome faucet and tower. All you'd need to do is pick up a used keg and the proper connectors which could easily be found for <$75.

Since your title specifies low cost you can save some money by using a wired lav mic like this Audio Technica or this Olympus lav mic. You simply plug it into the camera's mic input. A 3.5mm extension cable might be needed to reach the camera. Use the lav mic with an inexpensive voice recorder if you need the subject to move around. Smart phones have decent audio recording apps too. Syncing the audio in post can be a hassel so only do this if the shot requires being untethered. If you record audio with a separate recorder it helps to mark it by saying a scene number and making a clap sound so you can find it and sync it with the video editing software.

For lighting you might consider an inexpensive LED light and a second battery. Charge one battery while using the other.

I've used clamps like this and this for quick and simple mount of camera and small lights to a chair, windowsill, cupboard, etc. You can use JB Weld to put a 1/4-20 nut-coupler on the light if it doesn't have it already.

edit: I like Canon equipment and their line of Vixia Camcorders starts at around $300 and has a mic input. The lens and image stabilization gets you a nice picture compared to a camera phone or similar "cheap" camera.

IIRC Premiere has a basic mode that uses a simpler timeline more like Apple's iMovie. You can download 30 day trial versions of the latest Adobe products. Give Premiere Elements a try.

I've been working on this table project for a little while now, and now just need to fasten the legs to the table tops. One issue that that these raw oak slabs were never planed more than the rough cut from the tree, so their fairly uneven, and even bow a little (don't think it shows in the pictures, though). For that reason, I need a way to level the legs so that the tables don't rock once their finished. Shimming the plates with washers should be easy enough to get the table level, but I'll need machined threads to run the fasteners into and out of (and then into and out of again) so that they'll still hold once it's all said and done. I've looked at a few different options for this problem, but aren't convinced any of them are ideal. T-nuts would work, but I think they might pull out since they won't be held in from the top of the table surface (not interested in that industrial look). These threaded inserts and these similar ones would seem to do the trick, but the reviews raise questions about the strength of the material in dealing with hardwood, as well as problems with the material stripping while trying to place them. Anyone have any suggestions/advice?

TLDR: Looking for fastener solutions to affix table legs to the underside of an oak slab that will allow adjusting to level the table.

Everybody is bad-mouthing it but nobody is offering advice.

You can salvage this if you lay a piece of 3/8" over the top of the control board and undermount the joysticks. Then use some of these to undermount the joysticks. They will show through the top though, so get yourself some spray adhesive and some laminate/melamine to cover the top of it.

Secondly, the piece that your monitor is mounted to and that (what appears to be) an audio controller... Redo it and this time take your time and use measurements and a template.

Cardboard is your friend. Use it to template things with exact measurements. Use a ruler, a straight edge, and a nice pointy pencil.

You've got this!

http://www.hobbymaterc.com/hobbymate-15a-mini-quadcopter-esc-oneshot125-electronic-speed-controller-2-4s-brushless-for-qav-fpv-quadcopter-multicopter_p0035.html

"The ESCs do not have a BEC, you will need to supply 5v power to your flight controller with a UBEC or stepdown voltage regulator" -Hobbymaterc

You will need to get your own BEC.

https://www.amazon.com/Naze32-Flight-Controller-Distribution-Multicopter/dp/B00UFK8VJ2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479613994&sr=8-2&keywords=PDB+5v+12v+arris This is the one that I use, and I can say it works phenomenally (the 5v regulator is inside a power distribution board). Plus the PDB will help clean up your wires.

The cool thing about this PDB, is that it was made to be the same size as your CC3D, so if you get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014K8MXO8?psc=1 , then you can mount them on top of eachother like this: https://oscarliang.com/ctt/uploads/2015/04/zmr250-PDB-Installed-and-Naze32-FC.jpg , making the build a whole lot cleaner.


You need to hook your 12v battery directly to the positive and negative pads of the Arris PDB, and then use the 5v regulator portion (always check with a multimeter that it IS outputting 5v before plugging in) and then plug that into your FC. Plug your FC into the FS-R6B receiver and it will light up.

To use the receiver while on your software (I'm assuming openpilot), you will need your FC hooked up into the PC AND powered via the 5v regulator.


Important side note: The FS-T6 has a safety feature that when it loses telemtry, the FS-R6B receiver turns off and therefore turns the craft off. This means that when you turn the receiver on, and your transmitter is not on, it will not light up, rather it will blink red the moment you plug it in, and then turn off. Simply turn on your transmitter, and then you'll see a solid red LED, given that your transmitter is already binded with the receiver.

This is the drone that I have built:

Been slowly building my first quad over the past month or so. Just when I have time. I bought a cheap carbon fiber kit off amazon. I will list everything I have bought so far.

Fly Sky FS-i6 Transmitter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3PZ3Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fly Sky FSia6b RX (need this to run PPM instead of PWM): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VE3Q3XU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LHI quad Kit with ESC's, Motors and Flight Controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B010FMGUS8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Now the above kit comes with a CC3D flight controller, after some research, I decided that I would use a Naze32 rev6 board instead. I purchased that from Hobby king, I will list all hobbyking purchases after amazon.

Nylon hex nuts, screws and stand offs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EPLH08Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

XT60 connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E9HM7NC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lipo Voltage Checker: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E7UXVL8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Battery / GoPro straps: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F7MEDW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 PS: good velcro isnt enough!

Tri-blade Props. Buy a couple of these!:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CHDNRRK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Extra arms....JUST IN CASE! https://www.amazon.com/LHI-Carbon-thick-250mm-Quadcopter/dp/B01715HGNU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472346179&sr=8-1&keywords=LHI+arms


These are all the hobby king stuff that I bought:
Naze 32 FC ACRO: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__96841__AfroFlight_Naze32_Rev6_Flight_Controller_Acro_.html

1300 mah 3s 45-90c lipos: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__18207__Turnigy_nano_tech_1300mAh_3S_45_90C_Lipo_Pack.html

Besides a lipo charger, the above will get you flying! Below is everything needed for the FPV aspect! I used to run RC cars so luckily I had a lipo charger from those days

Camera and transmitter from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/262061528376?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Clover antennas from ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/272297376391?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Quanum Cyclops FPV Goggles from hobbyking: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__104150__Quanum_Cyclops_FPV_Goggle_w_Integrated_Monitor_and_Receiver_AR_Warehouse_.html

Now this is prolly the most basic, beginners fpv setup that you can buy... Its perfect for learning and crashing lol. I have about 3 flights with mine so far, about 4 batteries. Buy props lol, lots of props. Already had to change 1 arm too.

No problem!

1. 5mm
   
   
2. Yes, M3 for all holes, I used the Parvum modding cubes to build the case structure, and for mounting components I used these nuts inserted into the acrylic by applying heat: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y20YLKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 - you can see some tips about how to insert these nuts in the SFF Forum post
   
   
3. It's super sturdy. The only fragile part would maybe be the logo on mine, but in general I think it's perfectly safe to travel with this case.

I made something similar using the MFJ 1979 20M 1/4 wave vertical, something like a Hustler mast or MFJ-1600T mast extender, and a Wolf River Coil.

You'll also need 3/8 x 24 coupling nuts

and some way to mount the mast like one of these: Mirror Mount.

Here is an early version of my backyard HOA stealthy 10M-80M vertical telescoping antenna. It works pretty well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4W5FFX3movg&t=9s

How much movement do you expect?
Does the top need to be fastener free?

One thought would be to install rivnuts into the sheet metal top then fasten the wood top using connector bolts. The holes thru the wood top would have enough clearance to the bolts to allow movement as long as you dont let a 500lb gorilla tighten the bolts.

The connector bolts are relatively low profile and shouldn't interfere with the tops function. But They could also be set in a counter bore with similar clearance between bore and head as the shaft and thru hole to allow clearance.

Rivnut example https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BFVHCTL/

Connector bolt example
https://www.amazon.com/Hard-Find-Fastener-014973445744-Connector/dp/B00KM4OYJC

Thank you! Doing some research in your suggested made me want to do this approach:

1 - Drill holes into the trees and use a sealer to prevent infection.

2 - Use the W-11-008 wire (not flexible, supports 1640lbs), and clamp a swage domehead on the end. I was reading swages are better for loads than rope clips.

3 - Thread non swaged end of wire through 1 stainless steel washer, tree, and the other tree. Pull tight and mark on wire where the wire exits the tree.

4 - Remove wire from second tree, cut at mark, and insert a swage stud on the end.

5 - Remove wire from trees, and rethread with more washers on domehead swage and add washers on stud swage.

6 - Add a lock nut and tighten.

If the wire is too loose, add more washers. If the wire is too tight, loosen lock nut.

Wire the top hole first, as the trunks would slightly bend when wires are tightened, and wire lower hole second.

This would be a much cheaper and easier solution. What do you think?

I got a long piece of all thread that matched the same thread as the Clicgear wheels I bought for it. Drilled out the holes where the bottom roller blade wheels are so the allthread could fit through snug. Then used female to female nut union/coupling to fasten the Clicgear wheels to the allthread. Here's about what I used. Cost ~$80 to do, so I'd make sure you get the right stuff as this was a quick google. You could call Clicgear and ask them all the thread size info and go to grainger and make sure you order the right nut/allthread. You could also go on Zuca Mods on facebook and ask there. Very active community.
https://www.clicgearusa.com/products/clicgear-maintenance-free-wheelscB

https://www.amazon.com/Threaded-plated-M12-1-75-Thread-Threads/dp/B00G3QETRU/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=M12+threaded+rod&qid=1568719070&s=industrial&sr=1-5

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-1-75-Pitch-Length-Stainless-Coupling/dp/B07JNPWGBF/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1568719215&refinements=p_n_feature_fourteen_browse-bin%3A11434082011&s=industrial&sr=1-1

One of the reasons I jumped in here is because there was a post in r/RetroPie yesterday? where someone wanted to have an 8-way and a 4-way. I was thinking that was you.

I'm not sure what you mean about pulling pins out. I would do this in the most "non-destructive" way possible -- in/with the wires -- but that's just me and my preferences.

EDIT

I would use "single pin JST"? connectors on the wires. I've never used them before so I'm not sure I'm using the right terminology. Neither am I sure the best place/way to obtain them but this is what I'm talking about:

https://www.amazon.com/KINCREA-Housing-Connector-Adaptor-Assortment/dp/B07DF9BJKH

The "single" / small one in the upper right corner of the pics. Not sure if there are different sizes of the "singles" either and if they'll fit on the pins coming out of the 5-pin joystick.

So far I like it pretty well, I was thinking of doing parallel 7th or 12th, but looking at both, 7th seemed a little too "fanned" at the high frets and 12 at a the low. so split the difference a bit.

The inserts? bought off of amazon, m3 threaded. I don't have the link to the exact product on me, but like these: https://www.amazon.com/20pcs-Metric-Steel-Insert-Rivnut/dp/B00W8TTXFY/ref=sr_1_4?srs=3049510011&ie=UTF8&qid=1474291463&sr=8-4&keywords=m3+threaded

Its actually a pretty close to standard spacing (e to e = 1.4" and 2.136" at bridge), angling the nut makes it look more narrow. (freaked me out when I cut neck width it just felt wrong.)

Sure thing!

A lot of these were purchased on Amazon for this build, but I do a lot of electronics tinkering, and I usually grab this stuff from Aliexpress and just wait the 3-6 weeks for it to arrive in the US. I had one Pro Micro on hand, but needed two, so I just got the 3 pack from the Amazon seller below:

Pro Micros
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HCXMBOU

Bumpons
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACPT2LU

M3 Inserts
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y20YLKY

Female Micro USB Breakout Boards
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0183KF7TM

RJ9 Adapter Kit (these can be gotten cheaper, but I needed them fast)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072HXNW3F

RJ9 Coiled Cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076J83H83

Silicone Hookup Wire (good looking and easy to work with)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073RD76QD

Female Headers (just snap off and sand the broken edges)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/product/B01DLX6RSQ/

I've found them a bit hit and miss, I used them on drawer handles, which may not be the ideal use case. One of 5 has already come loose. I tried to fix by shoving PLA fibres after it and melting a rim around, but no joy.

The surface area of the grip part is very small on the ones I have, and also the lines down the edge run lengthways, where if they have been crossways they'd have been like knurling adding some grip.

I got mine on amazon and ebay. https://www.amazon.co.uk/M3x5mm-Metric-Threaded-Insert-100pcs/dp/B00Y20YLKY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1539132205&sr=8-6&keywords=threaded+inserts

I've started to (where possible) build little enclosures for nuts instead. It's a lot more hassle and less fun.

Any tips on the inserts welcomed (I bought a bloody load of them)

DSLRs are really front-heavy, which can exacerbate vibrations. I'd find a way to balance its center of gravity directly over the mount.

What kind of mount is it?

EDIT: ALSO: You need to secure the top of your camera as well. You can get a simple hotshoe mount like this and improvise some hardware. Basically you want to make a tripod that mounts to the top of the camera to either the base of your mount or additional suction cups.

The easiest thing you could do is lean the headboard against the wall, then push the bed up to it. I've lived with that solution a few times.

For extra credit, stick some felt pads on the top corners of the headboard so it doesn't bang against the wall or abrade the plaster. (That also helps if the headboard is solidly attached to the bed.)

If you do want to bolt them together, I suggest you assemble the two pieces, set them together, than use the holes in the headboard as a guide to drill matching holes in the bed frame. I'd use machine screws with nuts and fender washers -- those distribute the load well so the screws won't pull out. In the US, use 1/4-20 screws; in the metric world, use M6.

If there's not enough clearance for the drawers inside the bed, you can use T-nuts like these instead of hex nuts. And use shorter screws.

Here are some on Amazon, Prime-eligible. I'll probably get a larger batch too, but these are relatively cheap to play with and they get here fast. :-)

The GPU is simply mounted to the wood with a screw like it would be in a case, there's a little support that I covered with silicone on the back end.

For the motherboard I used these and these.

I keep some backup clothing. Specifically wool socks, boots and extra gloves and hat. If I get stranded and have to trudge through the snow I wanna be prepared.

Recovery straps arent too expensive either. I think mine was like $30. Get a hitch shackle too if you're gonna do that.

Besides that I keep extra fluids and litter or salt in a box in the back. I got one of these cause I didnt want anything permanent, and just chain it in the bed. Also sand bags for weight - this year I'm planning to build a frame to hold them in place.

Over summer I also built this rail-mount shovel holder, mostly to keep it from bouncing around or getting easily lifted. Its not really secure but its better than just tossing it in there. I used these clamps and these t-slot nuts for the rail. Hardware came from lowes, 3/8"-16, i think they were 1 1/2 inch bolts, washers, and the aluminum bar.

Trencher Shovel:

Manufacturer's site for specs: https://www.crkt.com/trencher.html

Amazon link for a better price: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M0G10O4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mounting Pieces:

Quickfists: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000CQPANY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

T-Slot Nuts: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B009SWGLHW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Screws: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00IZFS0VI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You will need a Drill and a 3/8" or 1/2" drill bit. Drill out the stock hole in the bottom of the quickfist to make the hole larger, the screws will then fit through. Put the T-Nut in the bed-rail and slide it down to where you want it. Screw the Quickfist to the T-Nut and you get what you see above! Insert your tool of choice!

Carbon Steel Lock Nut, Zinc Plated Finish, Right Hand Threads, Self... http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NBKLM8/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_HtkSub0YB4D93

Easy! Bed rail nuts

Nevermind, found a bag of 100 here on Amazon.. Thanks all! http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NBKLM8/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All you need is a cheap red dot sight (there's no recoil on a camera so your cheap sight isn't going to lose its zero), a short section of picatinny rail, and a hotshoe to 1/4" tripod adapter. You'll have to drill and tap the rail section to 1/4"x20 and once it's all put together and aligned superglue everything together so it doesn't move. I had the pic rail left over from another project so I saved ten bucks there. You obviously don't need 10" of picatinny rail so just cut off as much as you want. For extra cool points use an Eotech

The lens is a Rokinon 500mm mirror lens.

Wood beads are easy to find. As for the missing cap, I'd replace all 4 with something new that still fits the motif. Trying to make 1 to match the other 3 will be more expensive.

Cut a larger wooden ball in half. Find a Tee Nut to match the threading on the rods, drill a hole to accept the Tee Nut, apply some epoxy to the inside of the hole, gently hammer on the Tee Nut, allow it to dry, then thread it on.

T-nuts are also a lot easier than inserts. You just drill a 5/16 hole and press-fit them in. 100 of them should probably cover your needs.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H61YF2

Nice! I left the middle parts solid and used a cordless drill to make the holes. I figured since I'll never take them apart, they won't become stripped. I've also seen serrated brass nuts pressed/melted in with a soldering iron. It creates a durable threaded hole:

M3x5mm(L)-5mm(OD) Metric Threaded Brass Knurl Round Insert Nuts 100pcs https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y20YLKY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-S2-BbYAV507F

If you buy regular climbing holds, the plywood you mount them on will need some separation for the end of the bolts to stick out.

Therefore, I'd say screw 2x4s into studs. Take a piece of 3/4" plywood and mount t-nuts into it (here). Screw that into the 2x4s. That gives you separation from the wall, letting the bolts screw in enough. Plus you get the added benefit that your forearms won't hit the door frame. I've gotten some really annoying bruises like that.

use threaded inserts instead of trying to thread into the print it's self. I use these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00Y20YLKY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just look on Amazon for threaded inserts in what ever size you want. I am using the ones I posted along with nylon screwed so I'm not conducting electricity from what ever I am fastening down. I do have stainless steel ones I use too for parts that need a stronger fastener.

Check out this post from 3Dhubs on threaded inserts: http://www.3dhubs.com/knowledge-base/how-assemble-3d-printed-parts-threaded-fasteners

Assuming your camera has a cold shoe/hot shoe, you could use a Cold shoe to 1/4"-20 adapter and an iPhone tripod mount.

It's just standard 1/4"-20 threading, it says it in the description. Here is a $5 alternative: http://www.amazon.com/SMALLRIG-Hot-Shoe-Adapter-Monitor/dp/B006LB5YLM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1413131523&sr=1-1&keywords=hotshoe+tripod+mount

I have a piece of mdf with holes drilled in it and T-nuts on the back side.
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Group-180297-Pronged-100-Pack/dp/B000H61YF2/ref=sr_1_1/180-7989447-8305100?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1468022702&sr=1-1

I printed a bunch of hold downs on my printer and use 1/4 20 bolts to hold my part.

Lots of cheap options on Amazon. If you don't want the bar you can get a couple of these t-nuts that fit inside the track and screw the fork mount into that for an out of the way semi permanent options.

Sunlite Fork Mount Bike Block https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AO7GRG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2dOwzbNNVRVQF

1018 Steel T-Slot Nut, Black Oxide Finish, Grade 5, Tapped Through, 3/8"-16 Threads, 5/8" Height, 9/16" Slot Depth, Made in US (Pack of 5) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009SWGLHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IgOwzbJSKR2CC