Reddit mentions: The best high temperature tape

Hey, I JUST came off building a setup and it cost me $750 total. We have 3 plants in there right now. I have the entire list with amazon links or store suggestions.

Item| Price | Where To Buy
---|---|----
Tent| $95| We bought this one, I don't know if it's worth spending a lot on anything more expensive. For a smaller option I just got a second with good reviews but can't vouch for it yet.
Lights/Hood/Ballast| $140| I got the 600W set, but 400W would make cooling MUCH easier and still get a big yield. For LEDs at similar price, Viparspectra 300W x2 or a single 600W eliminates need for extra cooling potentially (not included here, we used fans from around the house)
ph Test+Control Kit | $25| GET THIS. The water must be pH'd properly for your babies' health.
Cloth Pots| $20 | These are better for aeration, water flow, training, etc. Cheap and reusable too.
Nutrients | $50 | I got the Fox Farms Trio, but there are many good options out there.
Fan + Filter | $150 | This is huge and might be overkill for you. Make sure whatever you get fits your tent vents (This one fits the Apollo tent above with 6" vents).
Ducting | $20 | Connect fan to filter, to tent, to wherever. Might want multiple sizes, check tent vent sizes.
Foil Tape, Metallic | $10 | Here. Metal Duct tape is best duct tape.
Fan Speed Controller | $20 | Useful for if you do get a fan that is slightly overkill!
Fox Farms Ocean Forest | $15 - $40 | You can buy it online and I did for my first 3 bags....then I found it in a local store for $15. There is some controversy with FF lately, it's not organic FYI. There are tutorials on making your own soil if you care, but I like this because I didn't have to use nutes for 3-4 weeks.
Humidifier | $30 | This is the exact one I have. We're in winter so I need it to keep humidity up, you may not.
Dehumidifier | $40 | There are plenty for this much. You may not need this either.
Cal-Mag | $20 | I haven't needed it yet but it's best to have on hand if you do!
Seeds | $75 | I bought from Attitude, chose stealth, and bought like 15 seeds?, so it was expensive. You can get seeds for less.
Jiffy Pellets | $10 | Used to start seeds. There are other options.
Total | $745 | If you buy all this stuff, you have potentially even more than you need to get started, with room for 3-4x more plants than these boxes, and with nutrients to last you for a long long time!

Hope this helps! I'd hate to see you drop so much on it when you don't need to at all.

As a lurker of this subreddit I finally have some insight to share. I thought I'd make a list to make things easier for you (save you and maybe others some of the headaches I went through). I also picked this printer up on sale, but for $700 and have been working on it on and off for the past 5 months. In the beginning the printer drove me crazy and I hated it, but after all the upgrades and mods I love this thing! My print quality is almost on par with a printer 3x the price.

My first piece of advice is to read this forum post. This gives good examples and settings for the printer in Slic3r.
http://forum.velleman.eu/viewtopic.php?f=53&t=11410

The first upgrade I'd highly recommend is a new hotend. This is the one I'm using and it's fantastic.
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Metal-Only/v6-3mm-Direct-Metal-Only

and a smaller nozzle
http://e3d-online.com/E3D-v6/Extra-Nozzles/v6-Extra-Nozzle-3.00mmx0.25mm

If you do decide to upgrade here is the hotend mount
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:349095

Another upgrade I'd recommended is replacing the ball bearings in the extruder.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002BBGTK6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Other purchases that will help in the future are Kapton tape and more Thermistors (both of mine broke after the first month)

Kapton
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049KTIAU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thermistors
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GD471PO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's it for must purchase upgrades. The next step to do once the printer is built is fix the z axis. Here are the parts I'm currently using.

Motor mount
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:236429

A new flex coupler ( I know a metal one might work slightly better, but I printed one just to test it and its worked perfectly so far)
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:274188

Middle part of the z axis.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:235494

The top part of the z axis that holds the ball bearing.
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:135151

An optional upgrade which I enjoyed, was replacing the worthless z home switch screw with a micrometer.

Micrometer
http://www.sears.com/skill-tech-1-in-micrometer-replace-40773/p-00940774000P?prdNo=6&blockNo=6&blockType=G6

and mount
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:346613

All of this will significantly improve the print quality. You'll be surprised what your first print looks like vs one after the upgrades. This printer IS a project, it's definitely not a "build and play" printer. But the unlimited potential and upgrades makes it far more worth it than a prebuilt printer, in my opinion. Hope this helps! If you have any questions just ask. Good luck!

If it's cool, I'm gonna just respond to this comment and the other one at the same time.

It's a Heatbed MK1? Awesome. Just like a lot of the other parts, that's totally a current component, and addressable by modern stuff. The MK2, 2B, and 3 are much more common these days, but there's still places you can buy a MK1 brand new, and while the new ones are a bit improved in terms of things like heat density and warp resistance, the original is totally usable. They do draw a lot of power, which is why the old machines often had two power supplies, as running with a heated bed isn't always necessary, so it's good to not have to worry about running 20 amps to a bed when you don't need to, haha. The orange material is what's known as Kapton tape. It's a high temperature resistant plastic (how high temperature you ask? One of its early uses was by NASA on the pods of rockets to allow them to survive re-entry. Tough stuff) that's still commonly used for a number of purposes, but back then was commonly used to ensure plastics like ABS stuck to the heatbed. There's other build surface coatings now, though some people still swear by it. The cardboard was probably just an insulator to help spread the heat more evenly, as the MK is around 200mm on both sides, and with an overhang of 100mm on the aluminum, it obviously needs some help to make sure that all stays around the same temperature. I'd keep that put together for now. Later on, there's some parts that can be changed out to make the bed operate in a manner that's a bit more modern, but for now it's serviceable, and not a big issue.

On to the other questions. When you dropped the board, you may have yanked some cables out of the screw terminals on the PSU. If you want to try and fix it, you can always shut off the power from the wall (wait a few minutes before you touch it, there's a lot of power in the caps), and carefully unscrew one terminal at a time, rearranging the wires wrapped around it so they make contact again, then put it back together. Alternatively you can ditch both PSUs and just get an ATX PSU from an old desktop capable of putting out 300-400W on the 12V rail (typically ones rated to 500 and above are good enough, as a decent amount of power is spent on the 5V rail), cutting the heads off a few leads, and plugging those into the power terminals. It's how I've run my primary printer for almost two years now, and it's an easy way to get a reliable, 12V PSU.

It sounds like your motors are all functional but they're either not getting enough current, or that other potentiometer is causing problems. It's pretty tough to kill this kind of motor, the only thing that really breaks them is dropping them, the wires ripping out, or them overheating. They're rated to operate normally at around 75C, though, so it takes a decent bit of work to really destroy ones of the size you have. If you want to test if they're all good, though, take a multimeter and test for resistance on the coil pars. Typically the coils are labeled as green/black and red/blue, but it can differ from manufacturer to manufacturer. As long as there's two distinct pairs of wires that complete a circuit with some resistance (usually it's around .8 ohms or something to that effect, but it differs from motor to motor), they work fine. Drivers are easy to kill, though, especially if you adjust them with a metal screwdriver, which can short spots on the potentiometer and kill certain things. I've easily burned through four or five out of carelessness, but luckily they're easy to source and replace. Honestly, motors are easy to source too, and only cost about $8-12 each, but the way the old Mendels mounted them means replacing them can be a bit of a task.

On the bed's readout, it definitely sounds like something's up with the thermistor, and if it's heating on its own (that is, without you telling it to), then one of the circuits on the RAMPS board may have failed, as some of the current control systems can fail in an "on" state, meaning they just directly pass power through to the bed continuously. That's fixed by replacing the thermistor/replacing the board, respectively. There's ways to replace the surface mounted components, but it's just simpler to replace the two components, in my experience.

It's a two person job, but my house is laid out pretty well so I had access to most vents easily.

My recommendations are:

-Feed cables down hill as much as possible, gravity is your friend

-Electrical tape around the end of the cable, to protect the contacts and stop the clip from bending and snapping off or getting hung up

-I had some old household electrical wire laying around so I peeled out about 5 feet of the solid stiff ground wire, then bent a hook on one end to help get into corners and tight spots. A coat hanger would work pretty well too

-There was one point that I had to exit through the side of one of the ducts. I drilled a half inch hole in the side of the duct and used some foil tape to patch the hole back up once the cable was through

-Anywhere the cable exited a duct I wrapped about 6 inches in either direction with a few layers of electrical tape for some added protection

If you had any other questions I'd be glad to help!

I'm not good at soldering myself but can offer simple tips:

• patience, have lots of it.
  
• get conformable. sitting, standing, whatever, make sure your work it at a nice working height for you
  
• have lots of work space
  
• have good lighting, adjustable, movable. (flashlight)
  
• watch you tube videos that reflect as closely as possible what you want to do. (good videos, at least three)
  
• practice with something worthless to get a feel for how the solder will flow.
  
  Supplies to make it easier (Amazon (canada) links of stuff the I have bought for my similar attempt.)
  
  
• soldering pen (iron) [I have an older, cheaper, non digital version]
  
• thin solder (there are probably better deals)
  
• flux (very important for hope of a decent solder)
  
• wick (helps to clean up the old solder, and helps if you get too much solder on your new attempt)
  
• magnifier
  
• tweezers and spudger kit (you might find something else more suitable)
  
• magnifier with tweezers (probably not necessary for this project)
  
• new part (if you can reuse the one you have, great)
  
• backup new part (my part was under $3, so I ordered a spare)
  
• heat resistant tape (probably not necessary, might help hold the part in place)
  
  and of course try to avoid getting smoke in your eyes, and burning yourself.

I do a back yard show too and I find the board method too cumbersome. I now use the duct tape/bag/stake method.

1. Duct tape: You've googled 4 cakes that you could hypothetically stick together because they "jive well". Duct tape them together with the fuses facing outward. Fuse so they all go off at once, or fuse in series. Use different speeds to accomplish your goal. You now have the stability of four cakes all in one. Gluing to a board is too much effort for me.
   
2. Bag: get a garbage bag over the whole thing once fused and you have a waterproof cake pod ready to go.
   
3. Stake: (IMO optional) Wrap Duct tape around the bag and stake to the ground for added stability
   
   Not a fan of roman candles. Dont waste your money.
   
   Make sure you test your fuse and know what speed it burns. My white fuse burns super fast. My green fuse burns faster than my yellow. My yellow burns much faster than the Pink. The pink is slower than the Shiny green fuse. That wasn't always the case. My green fuse was always the slowest and yellow was the fastest.
   
   I also don't like the idea of reloading shells during the show. If you must, you can prep them by zip tying the fuses together in groups of 8 or so. Throw 8 in the tubes and light the bunch. Dont put your head over any part. Stick the rest of prepped shells in a ready box. A ready box is designed so it cannot be left open. You lift up the lid, grab a bunch, the box has a string so that closes itself after opening
   
   Invest in zip ties and metal tape. Use this to tie your fuse together.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B00A7I5L86
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Aviditi-CT422E-Nylon-Length-Purple/dp/B00DY98M1I/ref=sr_1_3?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1525752899&sr=1-3&keywords=4%22+zip+ties
   
   I cant begin to tell you how much I love these fuse cutters. This tool changed my fuse cutting life. I spit on scissors now.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Edge-Utility-Cutter-9-37309/dp/B0037IX2BG/ref=sr_1_12?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1525752808&sr=1-12&keywords=handi+cut
   
   This fuse igniter will change your life. Lighters might as well be flint. Thats how next gen this is. Get some propane or MAPP
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09/ref=sr_1_3?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1525753004&sr=8-3&keywords=berzomatic
   
   This headlamp makes flashlights a thing of the past and changes your life. Make sure you get one that doesnt have a third strap along the top. If youre not using it you can wear your headlamp on your neck and not lose it.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-Spot-Headlamp-Octane/dp/B06W9HPY25/ref=sr_1_6_twc-13d22461-ce_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525753147&sr=8-6-acs&keywords=head+lamp&content_id=13d22461-ceea-426c-b620-9fe11db17513&ascsubtag=13d22461-ceea-426c-b620-9fe11db17513&tag=ospsearch-20&widget_name=expert_recommendation&content_provider=osp&ingress=search&content_type=story
   
   Also invest some money in some eye and ear protection. I can't tell you how many times I went to bed with a "reeee sound" in my ears, and have gotten pyro shit in my eyes.
   
   Build yourself some real racks if you're up for it. I just recently built myself some and it was a snap.
   
   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-p7J4HV4Gak

Thank you, I appreciate it! :)

It's actually [3M Foil Tape] that I just cut to length and stick inside. It takes some practice and patience but if you take your time it works pretty well.

It's probably not as reflective as mylar but I felt it was the best solution for my application.

I have no idea, but even if the one you got has a 3.3V issue, it's not that hard to solve. Here is a nice album detailing the workaround. I would strongly recommend using kapton tape instead of the kind used in the album. It's the ideal tape for the job, since it's basically made to work with electronics. If you're willing to wait a few weeks, you can get a roll perfect for this situation for as little as one dollar. If you're not able to wait, it'll cost you about ten bucks.

I'm going to try this on a print tomorrow, thanks for all the advice!

Edit:
Wanted to add, it wasn't Kevlar tape, it is kapton tape, this stuff: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BX49P8K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I tried blue printers tape but it never stayed down. The tape on the bed now is the first sheet I put on, and I have attempted at least 12 prints on it so far.

Ninja edit: Im printing with PLA. Currently I have my extruder set to 208, and my bed at 50. Does this sound about right or am I really off? The successful prints I have had I've had really stick, like I have to give them a good knock to get it off the bed.

Yeah, dry brushing can be good for imitating depth on a surface, like folds in clothing for small figurines or in this case the light shining from the bulb through the headlight fixture. But I don't know how it will look for sure, just an idea!

Kapton tape is a thin, orange-yellow translucent tape that is used in electronics and some mechanical parts because it is heat resistant. But it would be the perfect translucent covering to stick on the headlights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W3FAFP0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_H6pEzbBGQQVNN

That's great, but I definitely recommend an insulator layer between that slab of metal and the rest of the components on the board. Maybe just cover the entire under side with a layer of kapton tape and cut away squares that line up with the cooled components. This way you're protected if the whole assembly shifts or flexes.

Also, steel doesn't make a great heatsink and will obviously corrode over time. Definitely stick with aluminum.

Those ducts look like they were masticed which is perfect. This was the product I was talking about: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-0-125-in-Foam-Plumbing-Pipe-Wrap-Insulation/1081449

One side is sticky, but being out and exposed to the elements might take its toll.

My suggestion is this, I warn it will take some work but it will be very worth it, and not that expensive while yeilding the best r-value bang for buck:

Get some foam board adhesive: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL-300-10-fl-oz-Foamboard-Adhesive-1421941/202020476

And get some sheets of foam board: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kingspan-Insulation-Common-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-Feet-R-10-Unfaced-Polystyrene-Foam-Board-Insulation/999972968

Your outside layer of foam board should be this: https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/foam-board-insulation/johns-manville-foil-faced-polyiso-foam-insulation-4-x-8/w-n5075/p-1444438921381.htm

To start you should verify 100% that those duct joints are masticed good, and I mean good, all the joints should be full of it and no holes, no pinholes even. if not get this: https://www.amazon.com/Design-Polymerics-Mastic-Sealant-0-50-Gallon/dp/B0085UZBE2

Once they are 100% sealed you can start. IF you want layers of foam board (more r-value the better) the best thing you can do is use an unfaced foam board for your layers. Your outer layer should be the foil faced foam board. To attach your foam board to your ducts use the duct adhesive, you MUST use this specifically, other adhesives can degrade and "eat away" the foam and eventually the adhesive will fail and it will fall off. Obviously you will need to cut the foam board to spec to fit on the ducting. USe the adhesive to attach it to the ductwork, foil face out. You will then want to cover the seams with silicon or foil faced duct work tape, not duck tape. IF you want additional security for them to hold and not fall off or fly off with wind you can use a metal band strap. or self tapping screws with large zinc washers

metal duct tape: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B00A7I5L86/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=speed+tape&qid=1551224134&s=gateway&sr=8-6

metal strapping: https://www.amazon.com/DIVERSITECH-710-001-Galvanized-Metallic-Strap/dp/B00CD6WON0/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=metal+strapping&qid=1551224293&s=gateway&sr=8-8

metal strapping tension locks: https://www.amazon.com/Tension-Triglides-Webbing-Strapping-Adjustor/dp/B01JG09244/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=metal+strapping&qid=1551224293&s=gateway&sr=8-17


self tapping screws (need to be long enough to go through foam AND the metal duct work): https://www.amazon.com/Self-Drilling-Plated-Finish-Undercut-Phillips/dp/B00GYK2S7I/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3+inch+self+tapping+screws&qid=1551224214&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Now since its outside the air inside will eventually still change to the outside temperature, but not as fast and less bleed off of temperature in the ductwork due to outside ambient temperature making the ductwork sheathing the same temperature.

I have the Zoo Med Small UTH and thermostat on my 20 gal long tank 12"W x 30"L and the warm area is only about 6" around the center of the mat. I plan to add a second of the same mat next to it. I came from a 10 gal tank 10"W x 20"L and the small mat would heat about 80% of the tank to my warm temp target (too much). If I had the larger tank to start I would have gotten the med pad. If you don't have a thermostat I would definitely recommend it. I used aluminum duct tape to re-attach the pad which worked well.
EDIT: added some links

Kapton tape (Amazon Link) is decent but Poly Tape (Amazon Link) has been found to stick to prints better while still making it easy enough to pull a print off it.

I had the same thing happen to me, no worries you can rewrap it yourself. Though taking the others advice and doing some cold pulls just in case couldn't hurt.

Anyway here the cotton and the tape I bought, worked great.

For the cotton just have a hold punch ready, perfect size to punch out a hole for the nozzle.

Damn, too bad. It's too late now, but if there should ever be a next time, opt for air-tight fixtures, or seal them with metal tape before they are installed.

With the increasing popularity of the ultra thin panel LEDs, cans will drop out of favor in the next five years or so. They are easy to install, and do not affect the insulation envelope.

For right now, can you seal from the inside of the can? If so, use this:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B00A7I5L86

I gouged the shit out of mine once. I scraped the existing stuff off, cleaned the plate with a few alcohol swabs, and now I use Kapton tape. I put the tape down and a thin few layers of Elmer's purple glue stick on top of that. Get a cheap squeegee and a spray bottle of water to clean it off after a couple of prints and you're good to go!

I really only need to replace the tape when I scrape a hole into it, which is not very often because I use a spatula to remove my prints.

Glad it's working!

Tape would be a good idea, or a piece of foam between the drive compartment lid and drive to wedge it in there.

The standard tape use for electronics is Kapton tape. This tape handles high temperatures and is non-conductive.

I was typing up my list of shit for my second grow. Lets see if I got my Reddit Formatting Correct. :)

The Details

Seeds

• 1 x Fem White Widow
  
• 1 x Fem Hash Plant
  
• 2 x Fem Super Silver Haze - Scrogged
  
• 1 x Reg Cannasol Durban Poison Bag Seed
  
  Gear
  
  Veg/Flowering
  
  
• 48x48x80 Tent
  
• iPower 1000w
  
• iPower Carbon Filter
  
• Duct Fan One
  
• Duct Fan Two
  
• Fan Controller One
  
• Fan Controller Two
  
• Insulated Ducting
  
  Seedlings
  
  
• Power Cord for Seedlings
  
• Light Splitters
  
• Socket Adapters
  
• CFL's - Way, way cheaper at Home Depot
  
  Medium and Nutes
  
  
• Pro-Cal
  
• Growstones
  
• General Hydroponics Nutes - Lucas Formula
  
• Coco Coir
  
  Meters
  
  
• Light Meter
  
• Infrared Thermometer
  
• TDS Meter
  
• PH Meter
  
• PH Contol Kit
  
• PH Buffer Solution
  
  Pots
  
  
• 5 Gallon Smart Pots
  
• 14 inch Plant Saucers
  
• Scrog Screens
  
• Plastic seedling and one gallon pots
  
  Misc
  
  
• Foil Tape
  
• Ossilating Fan
  
• Snippers
  
• Assorted 4 and 6 inch fans
  
• Assorted thermometers
  
• Garden stakes, Twist ties, etc.
  
• Duct Clamps and duct tape
  
• 2 Timers
  
• Ratchets
  
• Distilled Water
  
• Various sizes of water mixing buckets
  
  
  

I'm assuming that the deleted OP was talking about teflon pads or "mouse skates" that many companies sell for specific mice.

If your mouse doesn't have someone making skates for them specifically, you can also go the route of buying PTFE tape and using an XActo knife to cut the tape to fit. I usually do three or four layers of tape. Since most mice have feet that are inserted into their own little wells, it makes it very easy to cut around.

A single application of tape usually lasts around a year for me (I use the rough side of a Func Surface 1030 XL) before it starts to fray and has to be replaced. A single roll of that tape has lasted me over 6 years, and will probably last years longer.

It's not snake oil - I don't believe it's a night and day difference, but every mouse I've used it on does move more smoothly for sure.

Just saw this on another forum. It's umhw tape, so it would provide a protective layer on your j hook without leaving a sticky surface. Might be a good solution for your setup:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00823J526/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_.ygzCb1V3KAGV

Think like the lab electronics test equipment, if the seems aren't welded or fail leak testing, they'll need some sort of copper/silver foil or other material covering with conductive adhesive to RF seal like insulation for shielding to prevent penetration/transmission and any doors or covers that need to be opened and closed for some reason will need RFI/EMI seams and gaskets:

Examples:https://www.amazon.com/3M-Silver-Conductive-Acrylic-Adhesive/dp/B075V69NPY/https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/search/?Ntt=conductive+silver+foilhttps://www.amazon.com/Copper-Conductive-Adhesive-1inch-12yards/dp/B018RDZ3HGhttps://www.cgrproducts.com/materials/emi-rfi-shieldinghttps://www.emi-shielding.net/rfi-gaskets/http://www.emiseals.com/products/

Maybe something like this? I believe it will give the light an amber quality as well. Heat High Temperature Resistant Adhesive Gold Tape for Electric Task 30m 12mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W3FAFP0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IvIJDbWJHHC0S

Grounded metal chassis provides protection from interference. In my experience building tube instrument amplifiers in various chassis and breadboards, the grounded chassis is highly beneficial.

If I were you I would line the wooden case with conductive copper tape or conductive copper paint, and ground that.

Wearable Wristrest

https://www.duopad.online/shop

PTFE Tape for wristrest glide

CS Hyde Optically Clear PTFE FEP Tape With Silicone Adhesive, 1 inch x 5 yards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000REI90W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_y2VOCbN7V22YK

Sleeve

https://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/aw/d/B0038OMYW2/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5&psc=1

Kapton tape is a heat resistant material that helps to insulate as well as spread heat evenly. Kapton sheets can also be a great print surface, if you can get the print to adhere to it.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kapton

It can be expensive for the REAL stuff, but is well-worth it in my opinion. Generic polyimide tape should suffice.

Budget Option-
https://www.amazon.com/Retermit-Resistant-Sublimation-Polyimide-Adhesive/dp/B07B63NDDY/ref=asc_df_B07B63NDDY/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241974915965&hvpos=1o3&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15995460504327532781&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9001953&hvtargid=pla-466684442381&psc=1

Premium Option- (you probably have no reason to buy this, but I'll link it anyway)
https://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-17215/High-Temperature-Tapes/Kapton-Tape-2-Mil-2-x-36-yds?pricode=WB0218&gadtype=pla&id=S-17215&gclsrc=aw.ds&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIh5He8NCq4gIVgeDICh1Jug_sEAQYCiABEgJSAfD_BwE

I'm not certain, though I would assume electrical tape would be fine for this. I just got a small $5 roll of Kapton tape on Amazon

We had a ton of problems until we did two things:

• Change tape for Kapton tape. This stuff creates such an amazingly smooth bottom and sticks really well.
  
• Spray a thin layer of Aquanet hair spray on the plate before each print
  
  Doing those two things, we have almost no warping or lifting at all, and when we do, simply turning on rafts typically solves everything.

please excuse my ignorance, do these require taping the power pin still? if so would this kind work?

This should link to an Amazon page for 3M Silver Aluminum Foil Tape 1" Width: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N3TYIP8/

I wrap all my mason jar lids with it before I screw on the retaining lid.

As for tape, Kapton tape will work.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049KTIAU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_mt1HybCM52Y5E

Right now I'm just using some Kapton tape:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009KB6AAY?psc=1

Later I'll add a silicone sock if I can find one, or maybe just some ceramic cotton:
https://www.amazon.com/WAHHING-heating-cotton-printer-insulation/dp/B01LAYCRAA

as /u/Rathmon pointed out, it's called Kapton tape.

https://www.amazon.com/Heat-Temperature-Resistant-Adhesive-Electric/dp/B00W3FAFP0/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1522273920&sr=8-5&keywords=kapton+tape

Kapton tape.

Here is the mobile version of your link

Here is the desktop version of your link

I just placed an order this one 1/4" Kapton Polyimide Film Tape with Silicone Adhesive - Length: 36 Yards https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J8PN7J4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jgA9BbCXCHES5 let me know if it’s not good so I will cancel the order.

Since the fan seems to run while it's being held down, you could try some kapton tape to keep it in place. Do NOT use standard tape on an ICB, as the static electricity will very likely damage the board.

It does sound like your extruder was too close, yes. I've had my printer for more than a year and a half and barring times when I had similar calibration problems, I have had no problems and I'm only on my third sheet of kapton (my printer, fortunately, came with three).

You can buy a roll of kapton tape that would last you many screw-ups at Amazon.

I would take it apart and see what the issue is, it may just be a loose piece of wood from the stock stuck in there. You may be able to see the spot that it's pivoting on, it's probably a little smoother or shinier that the area around it. Try sanding that area down a bit.

If you can't see anything like that I know people use foil tape to tighten up the receiver area. It'll last a lot longer than paper.

Or upgrade to a new stock. The Magpul Hunter X-22 is nice, I didn't care for the Hogue overmolded.

Or talk to Ruger about it and see what they say.

I use this

Another user posted the identical tape, but the listing they gave was to something that cost 4x as much per foot, and had one slightly jagged edge. I honestly think they took the two inch roll and sawed it in half and then listed it as a new item? No idea if that user was trying to drum up some revenue for themselves or just found one of the thousands of shitty items on Amazon.

It's probably heat dissipation film or insulation tape (to protect against ESD damage).

Off topic, but that picture you linked just reminds me how bad OEMs are about overapplying thermal paste. It makes me cringe.

I am not even kidding; you need to buy some of this: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B00A7I5L86

Use it to re-do that ventilation system. It is not safe to use "duct tape" for exhaust ventilation. The adhesive can melt, severing the exhaust and causing you to vent hot air into the room with your equipment.

Source: Got the temperature alarm text messages RIGHT after I ordered and paid for my margarita one Friday.

PS - Good work on the cleanup! Sorry to make more for ya :p