Reddit mentions: The best hole saws & accessories

So it was recommended you get painting tape so the wood doesn't come up and stuff (I have no idea what that's about but it's what I read) so this was the tape. This is the drill I used to make the hole. And here is the grommet I used to fill the hole (heh heh heh). All in all, a very easy process and makes it look really clean.

The 1080 is great. I am coming from a 970 but it wouldn't drive the Dell u3415w very well at 3440x1440 but this card does it no problem. I have been playing Mirror's Edge Catalyst, Witcher 3 and Fallout 4 for the most part and everything looks fantastic at high resolutions. The card is also super quiet.

If you were interested in the case, it's over here. I like it a lot but like I said in a previous comment, it was given to me but I agree with the finish, it's really good.

This woman's kimchi is super spicy. I only used 1.5 cups of hot peppers. Anyway, I've gotten used to how hot it is and find myself craving it. I eat 2 tablespoons of it with every plate. And I drink kefir milk or kefir water. Kombucha sometimes, but that takes 2 weeks to get good. The kefirs take 2 days and are pretty strong.

I mention kefir because if you make milk kefir in a Fido jar for say a day and a half at room temperature. The curds and whey will separate and you strain that whey into a jar with either olives, baby cucumbers, hardboiled eggs and beet juice, asparagus, cabbage (kimchi and sourkrout), pear onions, salsa, Brussels sprouts, garlic, and I'm sure more. You use the curds you made with the milk kefir grains to make fermented hard cheeses, yogurt (awesome for ball jar parfaits, cream cheese,

If you want to get really crazy you can buy a 5\8" glass drill bit off amazon for 6 dollars. Drill holes in the lids. Use either rubber grommets or a drilled airlock grommet and airlocks to let the CO2 buildup release without letting fresh air back in. The company that makes and sells them call them Pickl-It jarsImage. They look identical to what you can make for much cheaper. This isn't necessary but it costs about 5 bucks to do to each jar and the result is that you now have a 40 - 120 dollar fermentation crock.

Buy this jar: http://www.crateandbarrel.com/fido-5-liter-jar-with-clamp-lid/s495151?a=1552&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=CJ7Whp7ZkroCFabm7AodOmkAHQ

Or at surlatable if you want more than 1 jar, and want 1.5 liters like the legit picklits. I found 3 liter Fido jars at hobby lobby for $5 each. I suppose just look for clamped glass jars with italy stamped on the bottom, not china.

The dehydrated food you weigh after and portion out into serving sizes. If I'm packing them as a lunch I separate atleast the meat from fruits and vegetables. Match each serving of meat with what used to be one or two cups of kale. A solid ammount of tomato chips and mango, peaches, apples or banana leathers. (Go easy on the mango) Blend and fruit rollup your berries. I'm not a nut and grain person, but a granola bar probably wouldn't be bad in there. I suppose you could stuff all these bags into a food saver bag and have like a cheap, fresh and healthy MRE all set and ready. No cooking required. I'm not sure how long the meat would last. So I wouldn't let it sit too long. Plus make sure your jerky sits in a brown paper bag for a few days first. To draw out any more moisture before vacuum sealing it.

I have built several sets for my friends, somehow I have become the local cornhole guy, so here is some honest critique.

1. You did not fill your screw holes.
   
2. Your scoring holes are terrible, not even close to round
   
3. The stain is bad. It doesn't meet the white and the area around the trinity logo is not the same tone.
   
4. Your logo paint work is sloppy.
   
5. You didn't paint the sides.
   
6. You didn't polyurethane them (you should use at least 3 coats).
   
7. Its hard to tell, but the top of the board on the left looks like the frame sticks up above the face.
   
   For reference, here is a set I made earlier this summer.
   Redskins Cornhole
   Redskins Pic 2
   
   I am not trying to be a dick, but you asked for critique. So now I am going to provide some advice. Here is what I do-
   
8. Build a solid frame using standard 2x4. make sure it fits the top flush on all sides. Screw then together form the side using 3" screws and countersink them.
   
9. Screw+glue the top on using pre-drilled, countersunk holes. I use 1/2" Birch plywood for the top
   
10. Fill all the screw holes with good quality wood filler. Sand with 120, then 220 grit.
    
11. Cut your hole with a 6" holesaw. $20 on amazon
    
12. Prime the wood with standard latex primer
    
13. Paint your base color
    
14. Paint your logo. See This Tutorial that I posted.
    
15. Seal with 3-5 coats of polyurethane
    
    If you really want to stain, then stain the whole thing to an even tone and then layout and paint your logos on top. Then polyurethane.
    
    Check out this forum, go to building and customization for lots of great tips.
    
    You don't need a lot of tools, I build mine using a miter saw, hand drill, orbital sander, hole saw, an x-acto knife and paintbrushes. Be careful, if you get good at making them, all your friends will want one.

3 Pcs SET Diamond Hole Saw Drill Bit Set Granite Glass Tile - Tools 3 Piece Diamond Dust Hole SAW Drill BIT for Ceramic Tile Marble Rock Porcelain - 1/2" -3/4" - 1" Inch In https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00DRRDFXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_aakxCb1KKKR9K

I use this set from Drilax. I think anything smaller would be useless for drainage. I borrow my boyfriend's drill. Watch YouTube videos on how to do it, but essentially you want to squirt some water at the drill site, having it wet constantly so it doesn't overheat. You don't need to put all your weight on it, but you will need at least a little pressure. What helps me is putting pressure only on one side of the bit (it's a miniscule slight angle) whenever drilling, and switching/rocking occasionally from different sides. It really helps deepen the cuts. This also helps when you're starting to drill (keeping it on an edge rather than directly flat down), otherwise your bit will bounce all around the bottom of the pot (you'll still need your other hand to steady the drill for the beginning cut... Maybe even your feet to stabilize the pot, lol).

I know when I'm about to break through, because the water I squirted onto the pot will suddenly run through. And because I'm drilling at a very slight angle, I only have a semicircle hole, and I just have to rotate my pressure on the other side now. It's a rather gentle finish and I've never broken a pot!

I hope some of that made sense. Sorry for the wall of text. Good luck! It's super fun!

I bought a cheap metal-bodied one on AliExpress recently as an early Christmas present to myself just to try out, figured it was worth a punt at the price (about 1/3 of the cheapest one I could buy locally).

It is honestly a bit crude — obvious grinder marks on the iron, painted sole, wide mouth — but straight from the package it took shavings. So as-is it would be good enough for some basic shaping, bark removal, other rough work like that if that's all you needed.

I wanted something a bit more than this so I set about seeing if refining it would improve performance. Approximately 15 minutes of file work and rubbing on an oilstone got the paint off the sole and lapped smooth, then a quick stropping of the edge of the iron and a quick test drive and it was really pretty good. Even with that gaping mouth that's supposed to prevent good performance.

I thought I had pics showing it before and after tuning but I can't find any, anyway here it is beside the handle blank it was just about to begin work on.

If you want to give it a shot. it's $9.49 currently There's a similar looking one on Amazon here which is $8.85.

Yes! Do it. I was riding that high for days drilling holes in everything. I know for a fact my boyfriend is hiding mugs and glasses from me but cant prove anything yet.
I bought a big glass fishbowl, drilled a hole and put my fern in it.
You can drill holes in the rims of pots and hang them with twine and s hooks. I’m still realizing the full potential.

For reference, I bought a $40 black and decker hand drill and these drill bits:
https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00823A-Diamond-Drill-Piece/dp/B00ODSS5NO

I start the drill out on full blast with barely any pressure and then apply greater pressure gradually. Always keep water on it as others mentioned. Hope that’s helpful and good luck :)

go for the diamond dust bits. I just recently got a set of them and they changed my life. Well maybe not quite like that but they're leaps and bounds better than the arrow head looking ones. I got a set of 5 off Amazon for a little more than $10 and could not be happier with how they performed. Couldn't find any at my local Home Depot. The only issue is that they only go up to half an inch in diameter and the smallest downstem i've found is a tad larger than that. There is a set of bits by the same brand for like 30 bucks and they go from the next size up to like an inch and a half diameter but i'm not sure if i'm ready to upgrade to those just yet. It would make drilling holes for standard down-stems exponentially easier, but I don't do that kind of thing with any regularity. To make the holes bigger I have used a conical grinding or sanding drill bit but make sure you use water to keep everything cool (especially the diamond dust bits) and be patient. I've cracked many a bottle pretty badly due to impatience and improperly cooling the bit.

Oh and the brand is Neiko

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UF5V18/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3J828QRASPXDB

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Heavy-5-Piece-Diamond-Marble/dp/B000QVAGIE/ref=pd_sim_hi_1

Super easy! With this set of bits , At first I used one from the hardware store that was expensive, but made small holes and took FOREVER.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSS5NO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I just have like a 30 dollar drill from Walmart. I put the piece on my door mat on my porch, pour a little water (You don't need a hose but I have about a cup of water and add a little as needed) I start the drilling at an angle and then slowly raise it up until its straight up and down. Having a sticker on the bottom helps to have something for the bit to grab into. I'll try and do a video as it's way easier than the videos I saw on Youtube. You do want to have your hand on the piece though, the only thing I broke was because the drill went through the bottom and swung the piece around, that's before I was doing it on the mat to help with slippage.

I got these diamond coated drill bits for like $10 that work like a charm. I drilled the initial hole which was too small, but because the bit is coated on the sides, you can expand it gradually. I love them and highly recommend them.

Then, there's how I was able to get it in at an angle. I made the hole and ellipse, not a circle, because I'm not using a grommet to seal it and the intersection of a cylinder and a plane at an angle i an ellipse. Then, because these drill bits can almost be used like dremel bits, I just went along the edges at the angle I wanted.

I feel like every plant lover should have a set if these. Or if you don't know what to get your plant loving friend... Get them these.

I find awesone pots all the time for cheap at ross, or goodwill, then just drill my own holes! Free yourselves from the agony of a beautiful pot at a great price with nooo holeeesss.

Ok. I dunno what tools you've got or how brave you are feeling.

I can see several approaches:

1. Kick in the door. Contrary to what some people have said, it's actually not that tough, though in some places people have pretty well fortified apartments. I dunno about your building. The basic trick is that you want to focus your body weight on your foot which should hit the door at the height of the lock mechanism, but a few inches towards the center. This will probably flex the door enough to pop it open, and/or break the doorjamb inside.
   
   
2. Cut a hole in the door big enough for the cat to run out. Maybe with a hole saw (you will need a drill) http://www.amazon.com/EazyPower-Hole-Saw-CornHole-Boards/dp/B000YC1XUK/ or a reciprocating saw http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW304PK-Amp-Reciprocating-Saw/dp/B0002AJNQ0/
   
   
3. Locksmith. This is probably the easiest/cheapest/quietest, just pretend you are related to the dude and explain the approximate circumstances (e.g., "my uncle is in the hospital and we don't know where his keys are and we need to get the cat out").
   
   
4. Make a hole through the wall between your apartment and his. You could probably do this pretty quietly with a hand saw if you don't want anyone to know immediately, though ultimately the truth will be pretty obvious. You could probably do this pretty quickly with a reciprocating saw, but they're not quiet.
   
   
5. Attack the grate - I would think about the reciprocating saw again, or else drilling out the rivets that hold the grate together, they're probably weaker than the metal of the slats. You might also have some good luck using a jack (like for a car) or a pry bar to push the slats away from the wall where they're attached.
   

For the cables below the desk, I would suggest adding these things to the bottom of the desktop or on the wall behind the desk just below the desktop to clean up cables:

1. J channel raceway for cables
   
2. cable management box for the power bricks and surge protectors
   
   Above the desk, some velcro ties and maybe some braided cable sleeving should help clean up.
   
   I think the best look is to have every wire coming out of the back of the PC geting wrapped up in 1 sleeve, then dropping below the desk (via a grommet) into the J cable raceway into the mounted cable management box, then 1 power cable comes off of there to the outlet.
   
   Lastly, here are some grommet drills, grommets and some monitor mounts with cable management built in. The mounts will help clear up some deskspace (I have LG ultrawides and that half circle stand base eats up some space) as well as provide some ports for keyboard and mouse.

If you have a drill, you can buy a diamond drill bit and drill holes in the bottom of your pot pretty easily. I just ordered these on Amazon and got them yesterday:

FireKingdom 5pcs 12mm 1/2" Inch Diamond Drill Bit Hole Saw for Tile Glass Marble Granite Fiberglass Ceramic Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O1SAY58

I cut holes in 5 or 6 pots last night and it worked great. And now I can go to thrift stores and find cute containers to use :)

Diamond Drill Bits, Baban 10Pcs Hole Saw Diamond Drill Bit Hollow Core Drill Bit Set for Diamond Coating, Carbon Steel for Glass, Ceramics, Porcelain, Ceramic Tile, Marble, 6-32mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L92YM1A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_x.QUCbVDBJFS2

/\ get some of these and a 14mm downstem on eBay. 14mm is the way to go cuz you can dab with it too. Just make sure to practice drilling glass at least 10 times before you risk that beautiful bottle. Best of luck!

Get yourself some masonary bits for your drill, mine were about 15$ on amazon. hit the thrift shop/yard sales etc. anything you like can be a pot. shallow pots are better than deeper for succs. i use egg cups, candy dishes, cannisters sets, flower bowls, serving dishes, soup bowls, etc. your choices are endless and it is a way cheaper option, especially if you have 50 or 60 of these things like i do. i also got glass bits for my drill and so have some really pretty glass pots as well.

if you want a store option, terra cotta pots are cheap and you can find them in any big store like walmart etc. sometimes the thrift shop has those too...and if they are a bit grungy, i wash them really good with soapy water to ensure no parasites, let dry then use a sanding block to sand away the grime or discolouration.

if your succs can stay outdoors, you can use concrete blocks (or make concrete pots). drift wood etc.

edited to add some links/info.

EDIT Again! here are some of the great pots i've thrifted and drilled. https://imgur.com/a/4ztbWmn

Okay quick PSA on drilling!

> http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Tipped-Ceramic-Glass-Drill/dp/B00899COJY

I use this style of drill bit, which are avialable in 16 and 19mm. They work great because they don't have a central point of pressure like other types, and it has file etching on the side of the bit as well as the tip. when you drill, you submerge the piece in water and allow it to fill almost all the way. I like to wrap it in a water soaked rag to dampen vibration in the bottle and to shield my hand in case of shattering. certain surfaces are harder to drill on than others, such as rounded areas and or things with texture and design. It's simply a matter of getting that established nitch in the glass to do this I demobilize the piece as much as possible under water, and at a high drill speed give my desired spot a series of sharp taps. be as precise as possible while the bit establishes a nitch in the glass. once it gets going, drill at a medium to slow speed. when you see bubbles it means that you have begun to breach through. this is a good time to stop and check your whole. at minimal speed and pressure, drill through the remaining glass and remove the displaced piece of glass. next using the etching on the side of the bit, wear down the glass on the upper outer part of the whole, and then do the same to the lower inner part of the whole. this will allow your down stem to tilt downward more. Once you have your whole you need to fit a downstem in the most airtight fashion possible. I've used puddies, sealants, glues, and such but I'm personally a fan of a good old fashion rubber grommet. If your hole is good enough, you should be able to get a relatively air tight seal and your can avoid the risk of harmful chemicals. most head shops will carry a rubber grommet compatible for downstems and you can also find them online. Hope this was helpful, let me know if you have any more questions.

It looks like what I do is different from what everyone else is suggesting but...

I use one of these bits. To start the hole, Ill put 2-3 layers of painters tape down and drill through that. It helps keep it from sliding around.

As for speed/pressure/heat. I go full speed the whole time (stopping occasionally to get the dust out of the way and check my progress). The only pressure I apply is the weight of my drill. Just enough to grind away. As for heat, I'll only drill 2 holes and then let the bit cool for a while but Ive never used water to cool as Im drilling.

I've gotten perfect holes ever since I switched to a non pointed bit and have never shattered a bottle so I hope you get some of the same luck!!

BLENDX Diamond Drill Bits - Glass and Tile Hollow Core Drill Bits Extractor Remover Tools Hole Saws for glass, ceramics, porcelain, ceramic tile, Pack of 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MR1HTLH/

These are also useful. I use a dry grinder attachment for the common holes but carry a pack of these in the van for tasks like yours. You'll want a guide and to be honest that burr set may be easier to use. These still have a place.

So hit the local hardware store and buy a diamond tipped hole bit like these. Do this at an angle to start to keep the bit from walking (and scarring your glass) while having running water on it. If you need a friend to help with the hose or spray bottle then use them. Heat will cook the moderately expensive bit and well as crack your project. After you get an edge to bite work your drill to 90* and keep the water coming. This will cool and lubricate the hole your making. Wear safety glasses, you're essentially chipping tiny pieces of glass, ceramic, or clay. If the end turns blue/purple from heat, the bit is cooked and throw it away.
Source; granite installer/ tile guy x 5 years
Bong maker from vases like 15 years

I have this bit set which was super cheap on Amazon, and I have used those to put drainage holes in TONS of ceramic pots! It's super easy, I spray water on them to keep the temp down while drilling, and take it at a medium speed.

My tip for starting the hole (that's the hard part), is to start at an angle, get a groove in it, and slowly tilt the drill up until the circle is flat on the surface. I haven't broken or cracked one yet. :)

> Just spray it out, drill a little, spray it out, etc. Ceramic bits don't like to be gunked up with the dust, and water helps. The bit I have is about 3/4 inch, I've never tried starting small and widening. There are different types of bits for different types of tile/stone/etc, but mine look like this:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Amico-Diamond-Tipped-Metal-Ceramic/dp/B00880CFJS

Okay that would do the job!! Gah I was going to do a single, large center hole with my angle-grinder (and put steel mesh over that) as I've got a plant needing re-potting and really want to use this one if possible, I wonder if I can find a bit like that locally am going to have to make some calls!

I was thinking you'd start out with 1/8" bits and then work your way up, boring bigger holes each time- if there's a 'doorknob'-type bit for ceramic that'd be ideal for me, would put a ton of 3/4" holes and call it a day! Time to see what local shops have because if I can't buy locally I'll probably just use the angle-grinder as I want to re-pot this guy right while he's starting to flower (right now is 3 days into setting flower buds)

For anything I find that doesn’t have holes, I use some diamond tipped drill bits to drill holes. So far, most coffee mugs are super easy, but I’ve only done one ceramic pot, and it worked out well enough. I use this technique with drill bits like these.

Besides that, make sure your arrangements contain compatible plants: similar watering, similar light needs, dormancy, etc, and you should be good!

Design and design considerations:

• Outside Design photo - rooster crowing
  
• Outside Design angle view
  
• Inside reservoir view
  
• Inside close up view
  
• Inside full view
  
  
• I anticipated issues with heat and so I placed my reservoir inside the shed on the concrete floor for a heat sink effect
  
• reservoir holds ~30 gallons of water filled from my well
  
• pump pumps up to ~ 11 feet high in shed (~12-13 feet outside). Pump was rated for 220 GPH at 10 feet, 0 at 13 feet. I figure I'm getting 150-200 GPH at ~11 feet.
  
• I used old hoses, hose repair ends (male and female) with hose clamps to attach, run up and through the shed wall, use a 'Y' splitter and run into the top of each system.
  
• 4" diameter 10' long sewer pipe (cheaper than PVC), elbows and extensions to extend the distance between the elbows. I was concerned about them being too close and over shadowing each other and so there is ~22" gap at the narrow end, and ~28-30" at the far end
  
• target drop was 4" for the 10' run.
  
• at the bottom, I used sewer pipe to PVR converter and joined together with a bottom drain coming out (1 1/2").
  
• this returns through the shed wall with a ~1" drop over 2 feet to re-enter the reservoir at ~2 ' height above concrete
  
• I used these net cups
  
• I'm using Inkbird Pre-Wired Dual Stage Digital Temperature Controller Outlet Thermostat 110V, 1100W Heating and Cooling.
  
  Heating/Cooling:
  
  
• The Inkbird dual stage controller is set to 71F. If the temp goes below that then the heating plug kicks on to active this 800w heater
  
• As seen below in my temp graph, when the temp outside goes high enough, the water temp goes above my target max of 75 F. I need to come up with a cooling solution. Updates to come.
  
• 5/23 update: Decided to get an active cooler Hydrofarm
  Active Aqua Chiller, 1/4 HP - Note in the temp graph below the blunting of the green curve as the red (ambient temp) went high. I have the dual stage temp controller set to kick on the cooling plug at 68, and this starts the second water pump that pumps through the cooler. The cooler is set for 69 currently so when the temp reaches 70, cooling kicks in. I am continuing to fiddle with this setting.
  
  Nutrients:
  
  
• I ordered General Hydroponics Maxigro, Maxibloom, Each 2.2 lbs. - and I started at 1/3 concentration of recommendation of the Maxigro.
  
  Plant photos:
  Plants received dry bare root with no green growth from starkbros.
  
  
• 5/15 2 week old plant - notice the new white growth
  
• 5/23 growth and increase in root mass A lot of the brown is old roots from before the planting, white roots with a bit of browning is visible.
  
  
  Temp graph:
  
  This is with the La Crosse wifi temp probe (https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Technology-926-25106-Wgb-Wireless-Monitor/dp/B06ZYJ5L5B/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8) so I can check remotely. Red line is ambient temp, green line is water temp.
  
  
  
• 5/15 temp graph
  
• 5/23 temp graph with heater and cooling effect
  
  
  Water changes:
  
  
• 5/20 - pumped out old water, filled and allowed to heat to ~58 degrees before being impatient and starting the pump. Ambient temp was low 60s.
  
  
  

I use something like this, and haven't broken a pot yet out of 50+ holes drilled! I keep a little puddle of water over the spot where I'm drilling, or at least keep it as wet as possible, to keep it from heating up too much. Honestly, it's been AMAZING, I have so many amazing pots now, including converted pitchers/cups!

Something like this would work better, both for you and the plants. Bigger holes are better and will allow the pot to drain more easily.

Go hydroponic with the kratky method. Come on over to r/hydro or r/Hydroponics or r/HotPeppers and they can all help you out. I've grown stuff using mason jars. Specifically the wide mouth mason jars. Just need to black out the jar or else algae starts growing in the hydroponic solution. Chillies might need a larger bucket later, but if you have them in a net cup 3", you can just transfer the pepper from the mason to a larger container down the line. Good luck.

As everyone is pointing out the need for drainage, it can be done very easily by anyone with just a regular power drill and one of these kinds of bits.

Pour a little water on the surface you're drilling into and wear eye protection (as you should be doing when you're drilling anything anyway!) Let the bit do the work and you'll get nice, clean holes pretty quickly.

I bought these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSS5NO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They work great, just remember to spritz with water often while you drill so you don't strip the bit! I'd suggest watching a few youtube videos so you can get a good idea of how to do the actual drilling part, but it's super easy and I have yet to wreck a pot while drilling a hole.

I just drilled my own holes for the first time yesterday! I was in the same spot, so many pretty pots but no drainage. I bought this set off Amazon https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00823A-Diamond-Drill-Piece/dp/B00ODSS5NO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=diamond+drill+bits&qid=1564513905&s=gateway&sprefix=diamond+dri&sr=8-3
I drilled 3 different pots yesterday and it was super quick and easy. The world will be your oyster!

ok since no one here has said it yet, yes glass drill bits buuuut, it works waaay better if you get glass hole drill bits like this, http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Tipped-Ceramic-Glass-Drill/dp/B00899COJY/ref=pd_sim_hi_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0T0HMMZKXMAB7BVHZQ18 i actually bought the 14 mm but i will warn you now, 14mm glass downstems are only approximately 14mm, its closer to 14.6 or something so you give it like a millimeter so the rubber grommet can fit

Awesome! If it's your first time drilling into glass, practice a couple times on similar bottles first. Also make sure you're using a hole saw like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00824A-16-Inch-Diamond-5-Piece/dp/tech-data/B000UF5V18

Ask him for a cost breakdown. $200 a can seems high unless you live in a gated subdivision

Do you have attic access above your kitchen and living room?

You can order these.
TORCHSTAR 12W 6 Inch Ultra-Thin Recessed Ceiling Light with Junction Box, 5000K Daylight, Dimmable Can-Killer Downlight, 850lm 100W Eqv. ETL and Energy Star Certified, Pack of 12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FFPYWHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_H2UsDbGWZF79Z


Drwayll hole saw to cut the hole.
Adjustable Hole Saw Klein Tools 53731 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00529WW6O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_A3UsDbCWYE5ZT

Then some 14/2 nomex to daisy chain them.

You can just try the kitchen or loving roo. Which ever one is easiest. What do you have to loose? And $2000 to gain.

A 2.5" forstner bit is a pretty big bit. You might look for a hole saw that size. Hole saws are cool. It's basically a tube with one end filed into a saw profile, and the other end coupled to something you can chuck up into a drill. Typically, these also have an ordinary drill bit that runs down the center, which you use to locate the hole on your work piece. Given that you're cutting through barn wood, I imagine a hole saw would work great.

Edit: found one

2" sspade bit with a hand drill is still pretty sketchy. You can get something like this instead.

I haven’t tried yet, myself. I’m going to get some of these , I think. Also, as I understand it, you want to go slow & frequently cool things down with water. Good luck!

All I used was a drill and [one of these diamond drill bits] (https://www.amazon.com/BLENDX-Diamond-Drill-Bits-Extractor/dp/B01MR1HTLH/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1494215602&sr=8-6&keywords=diamond+drill+bits). I just wet the bottle down in the sink and drilled slowly at first to establish a groove then it's pretty easy to just keep it in place until you're through. If you already have a drill you can drill any bottle with just some of those bits.

I've seen someone on youtube drill a hole in a piece of wood to hold these bits still & he had great luck drilling holes in bottles & glass!
https://www.amazon.com/BLENDX-Diamond-Drill-Bits-Extractor/dp/B01MR1HTLH/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=glass+hole+drill+bits&qid=1565072268&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Yes, that's an insert ring. It'll basically cover the rough edges and kinda hide the hole to give a cleaner look overall. This is a hole saw that will fit that exact ring - https://www.amazon.com/Vulcan-961641or-Metal-Hole-Saw/dp/B000X2ILXS/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1486606762&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=2+3%2F8+hole+saw.

Basically, mark out where you want to make the hole, then make a dent directly in the center of where you want it to be to keep the hole saw from slipping while the drill threads cut in. Then just attach the hole saw to any drill, put moderate pressure and medium speed at first, and let the drill do the rest. Just make sure you stay as well directly on top of it as you can.

I bought this exact set about 6 months ago for $9.99, free shipping, I love the bits, they cut so smoothly.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PUWXRU8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_YOW9wbS41FJHP

Anything like this: 1/2" Inch Diamond Drill Bit Hole Saw for Tile Glass Marble Granite Fiberglass Ceramic Tool 5 Pack

Vids on YouTube show how it's done. But fair warning: you'll start eying everything like, "yeah, I could make a planter out of that." 🛠⚠️🌱

Dude what tinkering. There's like 2 minutes and 45 seconds of effort there, max.

Get a 5/8" diamond hole saw at a hardware store or home improvement store, and some 5/8" rubber grommets. Then you can drill bottles to your heart's content, and the holes will fit a standard 1/2" downstem, glass or metal.

Don't even fucking mess with plastic for a smoking device, ffs.

Plastic? Just use a Hole Saw like the ones plumbers and electricians use to cut holes in junction boxes etc.
Here's an example:

https://www.amazon.com/LENOX-Tools-Bi-Metal-Arbored-Technology/dp/B0052EC44Y


Lenox and Milwaukee are the best brands, but, if you don't need it for "production" levels, other outfits sell far cheaper ones, like Harbor Freight.

You can get special bits on amazon. Like these https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00823A-Diamond-Drill-Piece/dp/B00ODSS5NO/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=drill+glass&qid=1569519750&s=gateway&sr=8-6

I've had better luck with this type: https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-00823A-Diamond-Drill-Piece/dp/B00ODSS5NO

​

I'm gunna be a dick and say I told you so. But anyway... Here's a cheap set of bits that will last a long time if you take care of them properly.
SE DH6HS Diamond Hole Saw, 5/32-Inch by 1/2-Inch
http://amzn.com/B000SJ2TL6
You can cut an array of different sized holes with these.
As for the gravity bong idea you should take a look at the product called the kinkajou. It's basically a mounted glass cutter for bottles. If you've got some carpentry skills you can make a brace with your glass cutting tool to cut bottles perfectly. Honestly if you get the bits all you'll need is a hole. Here's a link to a homemade bottle cutter you can make with your glass cutter: https://homemade-modern.com/ep01-diy-herb-garden/

You mean like one of these? Might pick one up if you say they are better.

Bits like these, plus lots of patience and hand cramps.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ODSS5NO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_HU8-yb2HD7P35 these have been perfect! Just stop every minute or so or if you hear squeaking and pour water on the area you're drilling and you're good to go.

Depending on the size hole you want to cut, get this type: https://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Hole-Drill-Granite-Glass/dp/B00DRRDFXC/ref=pd_lpo_469_bs_lp_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GEGR9BY5JSS4KGAVHABX

Most glass cutting bits will be diamond coated, and they aren't expensive. I got a 1/2 inch size bit for cutting holes in bottles, and the type I linked handled that far better than the normal style bits (also diamond coated) without cracking or chipping the glass.

The important thing is to take it slow, and don't press too hard on the glass, let the bit do all the work, and have it supported underneath to avoid cracking and chipping.

Will this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSS5NO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 hole saw set fit directly onto a tool like this https://www.amazon.com/BLACK-DECKER-BDCS20C-Lithium-Ion-Rechargeable/dp/B00TM2T9C2/ref=sr_1_1?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1478632498&sr=1-1 without any other drill bits or adapters? I plan to make holes in glass with this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00529WW6O/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/176-0955244-5348615?fp=1&pc_redir=1427534361


Awesome tool when doing loads of can lights!

diamond drill bits are useful for that, here

Thanks man :D and I used a 1/2 inch diamond drill bit and the rubber grommet is also 1/2 inch that I got at my local hardware store. Diamond Drill Bit Link

I just recently bought these after getting some recommended to me from Home Depot that did NOT work. I also used this guide that advises using water to keep the drill bit cool and to start at an angle so it doesn't dance around. The drill bits work in 5-10 minutes even going super slow. My plants are now in various coffee mugs and things I normally would reject as they don't have drainage.

would any drill bit fit a standard drill? i don't have a personal drill, but i'm looking to buy a glass drill bit and borrow a friend's for a diy project with a huge belvedere bottle

i was thinking about getting these http://www.amazon.com/SE-Diamond-Hole-Saw-Set/dp/B000SJ2TL6/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1324616893&sr=1-3

I bought these. You've really got to follow the instructions that the one commenter mentions but the hollow ones work way better than the drill bits that are really only for drywall.

Okay, so this is the mandrel I want to get and the hole saw I want to use. This would be fine you say?

Just spray it out, drill a little, spray it out, etc. Ceramic bits don't like to be gunked up with the dust, and water helps. The bit I have is about 3/4 inch, I've never tried starting small and widening. There are different types of bits for different types of tile/stone/etc, but mine look like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Amico-Diamond-Tipped-Metal-Ceramic/dp/B00880CFJS

that one seems a bit big, possibly smaller ones are cheaper?

hole saw set - says diamond tipped
http://www.amazon.com/SE-Diamond-Hole-Saw-Set/dp/B000SJ2TL6/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1334198775&sr=1-6

hole saw - 1 bit 3/4 inch
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW5582-4-Inch-Diamond-Drill/dp/B000VRBENO/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1334198775&sr=1-1

dremel kit - must have a dremel for sufficiENT speeds
http://www.amazon.com/Pro-Quality-20-Piece-Diamond-Point-Rotary-Tool/dp/B000MOI9G6/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1334198775&sr=1-4


ALWAYS MEASURE TWICE and CUT ONCE
I used a half inch spade bit and it kinda cracked my first one

http://i.imgur.com/T9w9t.jpg

Has slide to bottom and then removable bowl
stuff at neck is hot glue for a air tight seal, glass was to thick for gromit that came with the slide


bottle cutter - for other fun things
http://www.amazon.com/Generation-Green-g2-Bottle-Cutter/dp/B004ZRV3AU/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_text_b

Miter saw is a must have too! I dont know what I would do without it. You definitely want to sand as well. All of the sharp edges can tear apart some bags (been there done that). Also, here's a cheap hole saw that I have used with very good success. Although, you need a pretty high powered drill to make it work correctly. I am on my second one, but I have cut probably 25-30 holes before needing a new one. I dont make my own bags anymore, but I did buy some corn from Tractor Supply.

I got these and they have been perfect for adding drainage holes to my ceramic pots. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DRRDFXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_9L.SBbP50KN83

Diamond drill bits work on glass and ceramic. I just did this for the first time and it was really easy, didn't break anything!

I just ordered this and I'm finally gonna make my Vodka Spirit Bong into the bong it's been waiting to be transformed into. Probably gonna need a grommet and I'd like to find a way to make a perc although I'll probably buy a downstem with either slits or a tree perc

Hole saw sizes: 1 1/2" for the smaller/lower hole, and a 2" for the larger/upper hole. These sizes typically come standard with a hole saw kit ($14.02): https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-71-120-Assortment-5-Piece/dp/B0009ZAEY8/

NOTE! The official IKEA FIXA hole saw kit does not come with the correct corresponding sizes!

My specific hack requires a grommet to achieve a tight yet adjustable fit while utilizing standard hole saw sizes ($7.49): https://www.amazon.com/HYCC-Flexible-Desk-Grommet-Color/dp/B01KNXAPK8

Addendum: Thomas & Betts zipties, Legrand Conduit, Surge protector w. long cord, Echogear mount, DeWalt 20v cordless drill, 2-inch hole saw, DeWalt Bits, you might need an HDMI switcher if your TV has limited ports, short ethernet cables for the modem, router, and game consoles since they will sit in view on the shelf. Maybe a short coaxial jumper cable depending on how far the existing one can reach up the wall.

When you affix the Legrand conduits, have one open to the left and the other to the right. It leaves them easier to open in the future. The conduit on the right is the one through which we ran the power cord for the surge strip. We spaced the segment (gap) at that point by about two inches so that the power cords coming down from the electronics could exit and plug into the surge.

There are other kinds/brands of bits that can do the job, but I'm a fan of these.

Hey folks, for less than $10 you can get a 5/8" diamond hole saw at most hardware stores and make your own bottle bongs.

That's what this subreddit is all about, engineering your own smoking devices. It's really not difficult.

You might want a bit like this: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Diamond-Tipped-Metal-Ceramic/dp/B00880CFJS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375572778&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=glass+coring+bit.

It doesn't vibrate going through.

Protip: use a 2" hole saw on your drill. Makes nice big holes. Make your tools do the work for you. You can find a hole saw with a mandrel (the center thingie) at any hardware store. Or order a kit on the cheap: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009ZAEY8

It's 2 3/8" (2.375"). If you cut 2.25" it won't fit.

I just cut the same cooler as OP tonight (same color and everything!), I used this hole saw and it fits perfect.

http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Diamond-Tipped-Ceramic-Glass/dp/B00899COJY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1346041752&sr=8-2&keywords=amico+16mm+diamond

works a treat

If anyone is interested in doing this, this is the bit you need from Amazon.

Any particular advantage of a forstner bit over a hole saw?

E.g.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0009ZAEY8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484366877&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=2%22+hole+saw&dpPl=1&dpID=51ypuzQ689L&ref=plSrch

Go to your local hardware store and look for a 5/8" diamond hole saw bit. This will make holes that can accommodate standard 1/2" glass/metal downtubes with a bit of room to fit a rubber grommet. A 1/2" hole saw will work, but you'll have to enlarge the hole slightly. You can use these bits with an electric drill or a Dremel.

If you don't have access to a headshop in your area for downtubes and bowls/funnels, you might want to order online. Otherwise, you're going to need to start looking for aluminum or steel 1/2" tubing with screw threads.

http://420armory.com/home/product/glass-hole-saw-bit-large/ This company offers the rubber grommet and downstem to fit the hole as well, but the hole saw itself is $10.

You can probably get a 5/8" hole saw for $5 or less at your local hardware store. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Diamond-Coated-Cutting-Silver/dp/B0087Y81MU/

You have a welder, a digital level and a Dremel.....but not a $10 set of hole saws?

As a toolmaker/CNC programmer, your methodology made me twitch, but I can't argue with your results!

Gotcha, some similar cracking happened to me a while back (see my post history; it's El Bongquistador). Sucks, dude, but it'd probably be advisable to start again, and use a diamond-tipped drill bit to make the hole for the downstem. It looks like you're using a 9mm bowl or something on the smaller end, so you could use something like this and rent a drill from Home Depot or something to that effect to make a cleaner cut. If it cracked pretty badly as you suggest, there's likely a risk of microshards being mixed into the water and aerosolized by the bubbling as you pull and it's not worth cheaping out on proper tools at the expense of your lungs.

I used these to drill several holes in thick glass brick. Go slow, especially with larger ones, and use plenty of running water to cool and wash away glass dust. Use a drill press to keep it straight and provide steady light pressure. They have similar larger ones.

I made these so I can pull from 13 or 18 inches. I used 2x6s for the vertical part and 2x4s for the horizontal part. I had those metal braces from a shitty squat rack I had but someone (I think maybe u/bparsonage) made a similar set up with more wood instead of those brackets. If you do the math before hand you can get the pieces of wood cut to the size you want at home depot of lowes or you can do it yourself if you have a saw. Then you just need a drill and a 2" hole saw bit.

And u/laspyra

Get a diamond tile drill bit! Then you can drill a drainage hole in everything!

For the DIY-ers out there, get you one of these and one of these and make a sous vide cooler for your Anova.

Based on this frequently bought together item that comes up with it, I don't think most people are using this tool to make glasses.

http://smile.amazon.com/Diamond-Tipped-Metal-Drill-Ceramic/dp/B00880CFJS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406484782&sr=8-4&keywords=1+2+glass+drill+bit

drill and a 2in hole saw.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-71-120-Assortment-5-Piece/dp/B0009ZAEY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497455790&sr=8-1&keywords=2in+hole+saw

Glass Drill Bit

I was being nosy and I think someone had posted here of these drill bits. They came with different sizes.

drillax bits

http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Diamond-Tipped-Ceramic-Glass/dp/B00899COJY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341464150&sr=8-1&keywords=diamond+tipped+16mm

Typically, a drill and the appropriately sized hole saw bit are what you would use.

Unless your wet saw has an actual specified "glass blade", you might find it will chip the glass as well as the backer paint. Not to mention being really slow. You'll find a Score and snap tile cutter much easier to cut that glass with. Cleaner cuts and way quicker.

Start in any corner. Throw the odd level line on with a pencil as you go up. And don't use mastic (glue). Use a white thinset with a 3/16ths" V-notch.

Use one of these bits to drill your holes. Hold a wet sponge against the bit as you drill. Shouldn't take more than 30-60 seconds per hole.

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00529WW6O/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/176-0955244-5348615?fp=1&pc_redir=1427534361

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

Drill bits for glass. $10
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00ODSS5NO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472698385&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=glass+drill+bit&dpPl=1&dpID=51NxO3dp4lL&ref=plSrch

I used a glass/tile drill bit while it was immersed under water and then largened the hole with a dremel and and a grinding stone to get it to size. I just ordered this set of bits off amazon as the one I had was much to small and took forever to grind up to size.

They're actually quite affordable.

someone here recommended these to me. I just got them in the mail but haven't had a chance to try them yet.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B00ODSS5NO/ref=oh_aui_i_d_old_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You can drill through ceramic with a diamond bit. Drill slowly, irrigate, and you need to use a sacrificial plate of some kind to prevent blowout/chipping on the exit point (unless you're not too concerned with cosmetics). Glazed is a little trickier to work with.

I can't see the video but based on the comments, is this it?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00529WW6O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1412992191&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Sorry, on mobile

Buy one of these.

Attach it to a drill, and bore through the glass by letting the drill bit do all the work.
Run water on the drillbit while it's grinding through the glass, it prevent cracks from forming.

I use this set of drill bits I saw suggested on this subreddit. I have used them for several pots with no issues or breaks so far. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DRRDFXC

Invest in this. It is a pain with a jig saw and very hard to get a perfect cut. I have spent many cursing hours cutting holes with a jig saw.

I've made a ton of corn hole boards. Get yourself one of these for the holes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YC1XUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Using a jigsaw for the hole looks like shit if you don't do it perfectly