Reddit mentions: The best hole saws

So it was recommended you get painting tape so the wood doesn't come up and stuff (I have no idea what that's about but it's what I read) so this was the tape. This is the drill I used to make the hole. And here is the grommet I used to fill the hole (heh heh heh). All in all, a very easy process and makes it look really clean.

The 1080 is great. I am coming from a 970 but it wouldn't drive the Dell u3415w very well at 3440x1440 but this card does it no problem. I have been playing Mirror's Edge Catalyst, Witcher 3 and Fallout 4 for the most part and everything looks fantastic at high resolutions. The card is also super quiet.

If you were interested in the case, it's over here. I like it a lot but like I said in a previous comment, it was given to me but I agree with the finish, it's really good.

This woman's kimchi is super spicy. I only used 1.5 cups of hot peppers. Anyway, I've gotten used to how hot it is and find myself craving it. I eat 2 tablespoons of it with every plate. And I drink kefir milk or kefir water. Kombucha sometimes, but that takes 2 weeks to get good. The kefirs take 2 days and are pretty strong.

I mention kefir because if you make milk kefir in a Fido jar for say a day and a half at room temperature. The curds and whey will separate and you strain that whey into a jar with either olives, baby cucumbers, hardboiled eggs and beet juice, asparagus, cabbage (kimchi and sourkrout), pear onions, salsa, Brussels sprouts, garlic, and I'm sure more. You use the curds you made with the milk kefir grains to make fermented hard cheeses, yogurt (awesome for ball jar parfaits, cream cheese,

If you want to get really crazy you can buy a 5\8" glass drill bit off amazon for 6 dollars. Drill holes in the lids. Use either rubber grommets or a drilled airlock grommet and airlocks to let the CO2 buildup release without letting fresh air back in. The company that makes and sells them call them Pickl-It jarsImage. They look identical to what you can make for much cheaper. This isn't necessary but it costs about 5 bucks to do to each jar and the result is that you now have a 40 - 120 dollar fermentation crock.

Buy this jar: http://www.crateandbarrel.com/fido-5-liter-jar-with-clamp-lid/s495151?a=1552&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=CJ7Whp7ZkroCFabm7AodOmkAHQ

Or at surlatable if you want more than 1 jar, and want 1.5 liters like the legit picklits. I found 3 liter Fido jars at hobby lobby for $5 each. I suppose just look for clamped glass jars with italy stamped on the bottom, not china.

The dehydrated food you weigh after and portion out into serving sizes. If I'm packing them as a lunch I separate atleast the meat from fruits and vegetables. Match each serving of meat with what used to be one or two cups of kale. A solid ammount of tomato chips and mango, peaches, apples or banana leathers. (Go easy on the mango) Blend and fruit rollup your berries. I'm not a nut and grain person, but a granola bar probably wouldn't be bad in there. I suppose you could stuff all these bags into a food saver bag and have like a cheap, fresh and healthy MRE all set and ready. No cooking required. I'm not sure how long the meat would last. So I wouldn't let it sit too long. Plus make sure your jerky sits in a brown paper bag for a few days first. To draw out any more moisture before vacuum sealing it.

I have built several sets for my friends, somehow I have become the local cornhole guy, so here is some honest critique.

1. You did not fill your screw holes.
   
2. Your scoring holes are terrible, not even close to round
   
3. The stain is bad. It doesn't meet the white and the area around the trinity logo is not the same tone.
   
4. Your logo paint work is sloppy.
   
5. You didn't paint the sides.
   
6. You didn't polyurethane them (you should use at least 3 coats).
   
7. Its hard to tell, but the top of the board on the left looks like the frame sticks up above the face.
   
   For reference, here is a set I made earlier this summer.
   Redskins Cornhole
   Redskins Pic 2
   
   I am not trying to be a dick, but you asked for critique. So now I am going to provide some advice. Here is what I do-
   
8. Build a solid frame using standard 2x4. make sure it fits the top flush on all sides. Screw then together form the side using 3" screws and countersink them.
   
9. Screw+glue the top on using pre-drilled, countersunk holes. I use 1/2" Birch plywood for the top
   
10. Fill all the screw holes with good quality wood filler. Sand with 120, then 220 grit.
    
11. Cut your hole with a 6" holesaw. $20 on amazon
    
12. Prime the wood with standard latex primer
    
13. Paint your base color
    
14. Paint your logo. See This Tutorial that I posted.
    
15. Seal with 3-5 coats of polyurethane
    
    If you really want to stain, then stain the whole thing to an even tone and then layout and paint your logos on top. Then polyurethane.
    
    Check out this forum, go to building and customization for lots of great tips.
    
    You don't need a lot of tools, I build mine using a miter saw, hand drill, orbital sander, hole saw, an x-acto knife and paintbrushes. Be careful, if you get good at making them, all your friends will want one.

I bought a cheap metal-bodied one on AliExpress recently as an early Christmas present to myself just to try out, figured it was worth a punt at the price (about 1/3 of the cheapest one I could buy locally).

It is honestly a bit crude — obvious grinder marks on the iron, painted sole, wide mouth — but straight from the package it took shavings. So as-is it would be good enough for some basic shaping, bark removal, other rough work like that if that's all you needed.

I wanted something a bit more than this so I set about seeing if refining it would improve performance. Approximately 15 minutes of file work and rubbing on an oilstone got the paint off the sole and lapped smooth, then a quick stropping of the edge of the iron and a quick test drive and it was really pretty good. Even with that gaping mouth that's supposed to prevent good performance.

I thought I had pics showing it before and after tuning but I can't find any, anyway here it is beside the handle blank it was just about to begin work on.

If you want to give it a shot. it's $9.49 currently There's a similar looking one on Amazon here which is $8.85.

just a random spitball guide, but I'd go with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/HOEN-Cutting-Opener-Aluminum-Plastic/dp/B07BFVKW42

Look for the size you want and ideally one that can cut metal.

See what other people recommend, but I like hole saws, gets it done in one go with a nice clean hole. But hole saws can also be a bit unwieldy as that's a lot of area in contact. One time I used a large-ish hole saw on wood I over loaded my drill and had to borrow a friend's beefier one.

I am concerned that 200mm might be too big of a hole saw for a hand drill, but idk, I've never used one bigger than 120mm.

I’m looking to do the same for some Sig mags, I went at it with my drill and some standard bits and I feel like the mag was just laughing at my efforts. I’m pretty sure something like this (https://www.amazon.com/Hole-Saw-Rocaris-High-Speed-Stainless/dp/B07H8VGNSH/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=metal+hole+drill+bits+for+steel&qid=1554262619&s=gateway&sr=8-5) will he needed to drill out a nice hole. Then a good bit of polishing the edges to ensure smooth function. I figure it’s worth a shot.

This is probably your best bet. And here is your hole saw: https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D180060-4-Inch-Hole-Saw/dp/B00005LEZQ

My next suggestion would be an angle grinder with this: http://www.lehighvalleyabrasives.com/abrasives-2-1-2-x-3-x-5-8-11-cone-type-17-norton-61463615722-61463615722?gclid=Cj0KCQjw5fDWBRDaARIsAA5uWTgpDuOTMswfO3GO2vXL2B8iCTWDCV6K3yqTopQZipgSGQx7lwq2UwsaAnvhEALw_wcB

It will make pretty quick work of 1/4" plate, and you can make a clean hole. Someone else suggested one if these as well, I would recommend a tapered cone like this, since most are 2" and your hole isn't much larger. It's easy to lose control of them in a small hole and have them chatter around. It's a bit better on the small end. When you use these it's important to run them in and out a bit to prevent grooving the grinding stone.

Ok. I dunno what tools you've got or how brave you are feeling.

I can see several approaches:

1. Kick in the door. Contrary to what some people have said, it's actually not that tough, though in some places people have pretty well fortified apartments. I dunno about your building. The basic trick is that you want to focus your body weight on your foot which should hit the door at the height of the lock mechanism, but a few inches towards the center. This will probably flex the door enough to pop it open, and/or break the doorjamb inside.
   
   
2. Cut a hole in the door big enough for the cat to run out. Maybe with a hole saw (you will need a drill) http://www.amazon.com/EazyPower-Hole-Saw-CornHole-Boards/dp/B000YC1XUK/ or a reciprocating saw http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW304PK-Amp-Reciprocating-Saw/dp/B0002AJNQ0/
   
   
3. Locksmith. This is probably the easiest/cheapest/quietest, just pretend you are related to the dude and explain the approximate circumstances (e.g., "my uncle is in the hospital and we don't know where his keys are and we need to get the cat out").
   
   
4. Make a hole through the wall between your apartment and his. You could probably do this pretty quietly with a hand saw if you don't want anyone to know immediately, though ultimately the truth will be pretty obvious. You could probably do this pretty quickly with a reciprocating saw, but they're not quiet.
   
   
5. Attack the grate - I would think about the reciprocating saw again, or else drilling out the rivets that hold the grate together, they're probably weaker than the metal of the slats. You might also have some good luck using a jack (like for a car) or a pry bar to push the slats away from the wall where they're attached.
   

You might have tried this already, but how about instead of your back to the wall, the desk goes up against the same wall? This will help with the following:

1. Cable management - cables hide between the desk and the wall, reducing visible, but not actual clutter. If you're really anal about it, these cheap things will help with cable organization grommet drill + some velcro cable ties
   
2. Awkard positioning - if you mean you're bumping your head when you stand up (perhaps making the soundproof foam on the slanted wall necessary), placing the desk against that wall will create more headroom
   
3. You have the PC with the front side facing away from you - maybe to avoid having the clear panel on the PC case facing the wall. The PC+the cabinet it's sitting on moves to your left in the new desk position, stays on that cabinet/extension thing, except it's front facing now. This provides some shade cover for your monitor from the recessed window to the left (the one with the shoes), reducing glare. Better yet, measure your windows and go to HomeDepot/Lowes and buy some roll down shades or blinds.
   
4. Couch eventually gets added with its back against the wall with the wine fridge, with that rug between the space between desk and couch.
   
5. TV gets wall mounted on the slanted wall the desk is put against. Get a TV mount with tilt &/or get a low-sitting futon/laydown couch to achieve comfortable viewing angles.
   
6. Get a pool table where the rug is sitting. If it won't fit, at least a foosball table.
   

Okay quick PSA on drilling!

> http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Tipped-Ceramic-Glass-Drill/dp/B00899COJY

I use this style of drill bit, which are avialable in 16 and 19mm. They work great because they don't have a central point of pressure like other types, and it has file etching on the side of the bit as well as the tip. when you drill, you submerge the piece in water and allow it to fill almost all the way. I like to wrap it in a water soaked rag to dampen vibration in the bottle and to shield my hand in case of shattering. certain surfaces are harder to drill on than others, such as rounded areas and or things with texture and design. It's simply a matter of getting that established nitch in the glass to do this I demobilize the piece as much as possible under water, and at a high drill speed give my desired spot a series of sharp taps. be as precise as possible while the bit establishes a nitch in the glass. once it gets going, drill at a medium to slow speed. when you see bubbles it means that you have begun to breach through. this is a good time to stop and check your whole. at minimal speed and pressure, drill through the remaining glass and remove the displaced piece of glass. next using the etching on the side of the bit, wear down the glass on the upper outer part of the whole, and then do the same to the lower inner part of the whole. this will allow your down stem to tilt downward more. Once you have your whole you need to fit a downstem in the most airtight fashion possible. I've used puddies, sealants, glues, and such but I'm personally a fan of a good old fashion rubber grommet. If your hole is good enough, you should be able to get a relatively air tight seal and your can avoid the risk of harmful chemicals. most head shops will carry a rubber grommet compatible for downstems and you can also find them online. Hope this was helpful, let me know if you have any more questions.

One of the cheapest method would be a carbide hole saw. Take the center drill out and clamp your steel between some wood on a mill or drill press. If you don't have any machine tools, predrill with the center drill mounted on some aluminum or wood as a guide then clamp it on your metal. The main problem with this method is the discs having some residual metal attached when the saw breaks through. You can super glue or other adhesive on the sheet metal to a backing to avoid this then knock them off, heat gun them off, or soak in acetone or similar. Otherwise, you can simply sand them smooth with a dremel, belt sander, etc.

DEWALT DWACM1812 Metal Cutting Carbide Holesaw, 3/4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016U0QBS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_y7tbBb4R9J3FH

Don't buy a cheap chinese holesaw, it won't make 30 holes. And don't forget mom's advice, always use lots of lube. There are some concave jewelry punch sets online for making clean blanks but they are for softer materials but they aren't expensive and you only have 30 holes. The problem with most standard metal punches will be deformation of the residual blank. Most are designed to deform the punched blank to preserve the sheet. The cheap, labor intensive method is to cut squares then free hand sand them using belt sander, dremel, etc, marking the circles with a marker. I can make a disc with easily 1 mm accuracy doing this. If you sand with a guide, it can be extremely accurate, good luck!

I don't have one, but is that a specialized bit specifically for mounting those antennas or will any old 3/4" hole saw bit do?

Edit: Appareantly they are a unique bit. Not cheap either... https://www.amazon.com/Laird-Technologies-HS34-Hole-Saw/dp/B007950PUY Good luck, hope someone can help. Might try the amateur radio subs?

The stem is a [faucet riser] (http://www.homedepot.com/p/BrassCraft-3-8-in-O-D-x-12-in-Copper-Faucet-Riser-in-Satin-Nickel-1-12A-NSP/205214807?N=5yc1vZbqjn) I pick up from local hardware stores.
That flare near the top keeps grommets on to secure the bowl. The bottom of the stem also has a built in diffuser that I did with a very tiny drill bit.

I secure the stem by a [rubber stopper] (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Unbranded-15-16-in-x-11-16-in-Black-Rubber-Hole-Plug-808238/204273789) that I drill through to create a slip fit. I again picked these up at my local hardware stores.

This one was a pain in the butt because the opening of the bottle wasn't big enough to fit the stoppers I had in, so I improvised using the unique cap of the bottle to fit the stopper in there and used small black rubber grommets to keep the stem air tight.

The hose port is drilled with a [3/4" diamond dust hole saw] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007M2HB8S) then filled with grommets to create a seal and fit the hose.

The two layered tray is to keep the coals off of the bottom tray. This is because it rests directly on top of the plastic cap and I'd rather not smoke burning plastic lol.

Edit: For anyone interested in the bottle, it's Zing vodka and the light comes with the bottle. It's decent vodka for the price too.

I apologize for any errors in grammar or formatting but I just got out of work and it's 3am. Any other questions, ask on this post or PM me and I would be more than happy to answer them.

It looks like what I do is different from what everyone else is suggesting but...

I use one of these bits. To start the hole, Ill put 2-3 layers of painters tape down and drill through that. It helps keep it from sliding around.

As for speed/pressure/heat. I go full speed the whole time (stopping occasionally to get the dust out of the way and check my progress). The only pressure I apply is the weight of my drill. Just enough to grind away. As for heat, I'll only drill 2 holes and then let the bit cool for a while but Ive never used water to cool as Im drilling.

I've gotten perfect holes ever since I switched to a non pointed bit and have never shattered a bottle so I hope you get some of the same luck!!

> Just spray it out, drill a little, spray it out, etc. Ceramic bits don't like to be gunked up with the dust, and water helps. The bit I have is about 3/4 inch, I've never tried starting small and widening. There are different types of bits for different types of tile/stone/etc, but mine look like this:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Amico-Diamond-Tipped-Metal-Ceramic/dp/B00880CFJS

Okay that would do the job!! Gah I was going to do a single, large center hole with my angle-grinder (and put steel mesh over that) as I've got a plant needing re-potting and really want to use this one if possible, I wonder if I can find a bit like that locally am going to have to make some calls!

I was thinking you'd start out with 1/8" bits and then work your way up, boring bigger holes each time- if there's a 'doorknob'-type bit for ceramic that'd be ideal for me, would put a ton of 3/4" holes and call it a day! Time to see what local shops have because if I can't buy locally I'll probably just use the angle-grinder as I want to re-pot this guy right while he's starting to flower (right now is 3 days into setting flower buds)

Alright, I just got done exporting the PDF and printing it to make sure I didn't fuck the scale up. The download link is right here. You're going to need two hole saw drill bits, A 15/16ths drill bit for the 24mm holes, a 1-3/16ths for the 30mm holes, and the mandrel for holding it. Try not to buy them on Amazon unless you have to since they are like 5 dollars apiece or less in your local hardware store. I made the pilot holes with a drill bit that was roughly half the size of the bit on the mandrel, but honestly any size works as long as you are careful. The parts you need really don't cost that much even for high quality Semitsu parts so if you want to go super poverty, you could even use American parts if that's your thing.

EDIT: Oh and the dimensions on the page are for checking the scale with a ruler to make sure it's printing right if that wasn't clear.

I used a bi-metal hole saw, pretty much like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Lenox-Tools-1772426-Bi-Metal-Arbored/dp/B0052EDIAS/

A steady hand, keep the drill spinning fast and it made a nice clean hole.

Oh yeah.. I'm fan of cutting my hole to the width of the studs.. way easier to have the support there when it needs to be patched. In a previous career, I did low voltage, basically home theaters and automation... I would do my best to avoid doing my own drywall work and foolishly when I did open up walls I was cutting small holes which then would make the job extra hard both to run my wires and to patch 🤣. There was one remodel project that I straight Swiss cheesed that house up... It was a large project for my company (9k sqft house) and 100% retrofit.. I was using one of these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012U1VVD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1PEUDbR6S39EK cutting 10-12" circles all over the house... Like I said Swiss cheese. Thankfully as part of the deal I told them they had to hire their own drywall guy.

ok since no one here has said it yet, yes glass drill bits buuuut, it works waaay better if you get glass hole drill bits like this, http://www.amazon.com/Diamond-Tipped-Ceramic-Glass-Drill/dp/B00899COJY/ref=pd_sim_hi_5?ie=UTF8&refRID=0T0HMMZKXMAB7BVHZQ18 i actually bought the 14 mm but i will warn you now, 14mm glass downstems are only approximately 14mm, its closer to 14.6 or something so you give it like a millimeter so the rubber grommet can fit

Ask him for a cost breakdown. $200 a can seems high unless you live in a gated subdivision

Do you have attic access above your kitchen and living room?

You can order these.
TORCHSTAR 12W 6 Inch Ultra-Thin Recessed Ceiling Light with Junction Box, 5000K Daylight, Dimmable Can-Killer Downlight, 850lm 100W Eqv. ETL and Energy Star Certified, Pack of 12 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FFPYWHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_H2UsDbGWZF79Z


Drwayll hole saw to cut the hole.
Adjustable Hole Saw Klein Tools 53731 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00529WW6O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_A3UsDbCWYE5ZT

Then some 14/2 nomex to daisy chain them.

You can just try the kitchen or loving roo. Which ever one is easiest. What do you have to loose? And $2000 to gain.

A 2.5" forstner bit is a pretty big bit. You might look for a hole saw that size. Hole saws are cool. It's basically a tube with one end filed into a saw profile, and the other end coupled to something you can chuck up into a drill. Typically, these also have an ordinary drill bit that runs down the center, which you use to locate the hole on your work piece. Given that you're cutting through barn wood, I imagine a hole saw would work great.

Edit: found one

Yes, that's an insert ring. It'll basically cover the rough edges and kinda hide the hole to give a cleaner look overall. This is a hole saw that will fit that exact ring - https://www.amazon.com/Vulcan-961641or-Metal-Hole-Saw/dp/B000X2ILXS/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1486606762&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=2+3%2F8+hole+saw.

Basically, mark out where you want to make the hole, then make a dent directly in the center of where you want it to be to keep the hole saw from slipping while the drill threads cut in. Then just attach the hole saw to any drill, put moderate pressure and medium speed at first, and let the drill do the rest. Just make sure you stay as well directly on top of it as you can.

You can use one of these to cut round holes. It'll cut perfectly round holes and even stepped mounting holes for flush mounting drivers. http://www.amazon.com/Hole-Pro-T-200-Adjustable-Cutter/dp/B012U1VVD6/ref=sr_1_10/175-8260483-6063160?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1458906927&sr=1-10 This is the first link I found, they aren't all nearly that expensive and you don't need a version with a dust catcher.

Make sure the cutting heads are exactly the same distance apart from the central bit. Go slowly and you get perfect results.

Dude what tinkering. There's like 2 minutes and 45 seconds of effort there, max.

Get a 5/8" diamond hole saw at a hardware store or home improvement store, and some 5/8" rubber grommets. Then you can drill bottles to your heart's content, and the holes will fit a standard 1/2" downstem, glass or metal.

Don't even fucking mess with plastic for a smoking device, ffs.

Plastic? Just use a Hole Saw like the ones plumbers and electricians use to cut holes in junction boxes etc.
Here's an example:

https://www.amazon.com/LENOX-Tools-Bi-Metal-Arbored-Technology/dp/B0052EC44Y


Lenox and Milwaukee are the best brands, but, if you don't need it for "production" levels, other outfits sell far cheaper ones, like Harbor Freight.

You mean like one of these? Might pick one up if you say they are better.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00529WW6O/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/176-0955244-5348615?fp=1&pc_redir=1427534361


Awesome tool when doing loads of can lights!

Just spray it out, drill a little, spray it out, etc. Ceramic bits don't like to be gunked up with the dust, and water helps. The bit I have is about 3/4 inch, I've never tried starting small and widening. There are different types of bits for different types of tile/stone/etc, but mine look like this:

https://www.amazon.com/Amico-Diamond-Tipped-Metal-Ceramic/dp/B00880CFJS

Miter saw is a must have too! I dont know what I would do without it. You definitely want to sand as well. All of the sharp edges can tear apart some bags (been there done that). Also, here's a cheap hole saw that I have used with very good success. Although, you need a pretty high powered drill to make it work correctly. I am on my second one, but I have cut probably 25-30 holes before needing a new one. I dont make my own bags anymore, but I did buy some corn from Tractor Supply.

Addendum: Thomas & Betts zipties, Legrand Conduit, Surge protector w. long cord, Echogear mount, DeWalt 20v cordless drill, 2-inch hole saw, DeWalt Bits, you might need an HDMI switcher if your TV has limited ports, short ethernet cables for the modem, router, and game consoles since they will sit in view on the shelf. Maybe a short coaxial jumper cable depending on how far the existing one can reach up the wall.

When you affix the Legrand conduits, have one open to the left and the other to the right. It leaves them easier to open in the future. The conduit on the right is the one through which we ran the power cord for the surge strip. We spaced the segment (gap) at that point by about two inches so that the power cords coming down from the electronics could exit and plug into the surge.

Hey folks, for less than $10 you can get a 5/8" diamond hole saw at most hardware stores and make your own bottle bongs.

That's what this subreddit is all about, engineering your own smoking devices. It's really not difficult.

You might want a bit like this: http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Diamond-Tipped-Metal-Ceramic/dp/B00880CFJS/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1375572778&sr=8-2-fkmr0&keywords=glass+coring+bit.

It doesn't vibrate going through.

It's 2 3/8" (2.375"). If you cut 2.25" it won't fit.

I just cut the same cooler as OP tonight (same color and everything!), I used this hole saw and it fits perfect.

http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Diamond-Tipped-Ceramic-Glass/dp/B00899COJY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1346041752&sr=8-2&keywords=amico+16mm+diamond

works a treat

If anyone is interested in doing this, this is the bit you need from Amazon.

http://420armory.com/home/product/glass-hole-saw-bit-large/ This company offers the rubber grommet and downstem to fit the hole as well, but the hole saw itself is $10.

You can probably get a 5/8" hole saw for $5 or less at your local hardware store. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Diamond-Coated-Cutting-Silver/dp/B0087Y81MU/

Go to your local hardware store and look for a 5/8" diamond hole saw bit. This will make holes that can accommodate standard 1/2" glass/metal downtubes with a bit of room to fit a rubber grommet. A 1/2" hole saw will work, but you'll have to enlarge the hole slightly. You can use these bits with an electric drill or a Dremel.

If you don't have access to a headshop in your area for downtubes and bowls/funnels, you might want to order online. Otherwise, you're going to need to start looking for aluminum or steel 1/2" tubing with screw threads.

Gotcha, some similar cracking happened to me a while back (see my post history; it's El Bongquistador). Sucks, dude, but it'd probably be advisable to start again, and use a diamond-tipped drill bit to make the hole for the downstem. It looks like you're using a 9mm bowl or something on the smaller end, so you could use something like this and rent a drill from Home Depot or something to that effect to make a cleaner cut. If it cracked pretty badly as you suggest, there's likely a risk of microshards being mixed into the water and aerosolized by the bubbling as you pull and it's not worth cheaping out on proper tools at the expense of your lungs.

I made these so I can pull from 13 or 18 inches. I used 2x6s for the vertical part and 2x4s for the horizontal part. I had those metal braces from a shitty squat rack I had but someone (I think maybe u/bparsonage) made a similar set up with more wood instead of those brackets. If you do the math before hand you can get the pieces of wood cut to the size you want at home depot of lowes or you can do it yourself if you have a saw. Then you just need a drill and a 2" hole saw bit.

For the DIY-ers out there, get you one of these and one of these and make a sous vide cooler for your Anova.

http://smile.amazon.com/Diamond-Tipped-Metal-Drill-Ceramic/dp/B00880CFJS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1406484782&sr=8-4&keywords=1+2+glass+drill+bit

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007M2HB8S/ref=redir_mdp_mobile?pc_redir=1395535865&ref_=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item and a power drill

Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00529WW6O/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/176-0955244-5348615?fp=1&pc_redir=1427534361

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

http://www.amazon.com/Amico-Diamond-Tipped-Ceramic-Glass/dp/B00899COJY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341464150&sr=8-1&keywords=diamond+tipped+16mm

sorry i thought i replied to you but i guess i didnt.
here is what i bought
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007M2HB8S/ref=pe_385040_30332190_pe_175190_21431760_3p_M3T1_ST1_dp_1

I can't see the video but based on the comments, is this it?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00529WW6O/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1412992191&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

Sorry, on mobile

Invest in this. It is a pain with a jig saw and very hard to get a perfect cut. I have spent many cursing hours cutting holes with a jig saw.

I've made a ton of corn hole boards. Get yourself one of these for the holes: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000YC1XUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Using a jigsaw for the hole looks like shit if you don't do it perfectly

Maybe this, but it is really not good with hand held drills

General Tools 55 Heavy Duty Circle Cutter. Adjustable 1-3/4 Inch to 7-7/8 Inch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004T7P1/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mRIqybDSME4FH

If cutting in drywall, not wood, Hole Pro T-200 1-5/8" to 8" Adjustable Hole Cutter - Hole Saw for Recessed Lighting Speakers. Twin High Speed Steel HSS Blades use ¼ Drill Power of a Hole Saw to Cut Sheetrock Plastic Soft-woods https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012U1VVD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oSIqybF27HZMP