Reddit mentions: The best pipe fittings

>Recently I clicked on a sponsored post that claimed that there is a way to hack Amazon search functionality and force it to do undocumented things. The link pointed to a site called SortByPrime (http://www.sortbyprime.com). I was skeptical at first, but after using the site for a few weeks I must say it is indeed pretty amazing. The site itself is bare bones with no documentation provided, so I thought I would write up some of the things that I learned to do with that tool in order to make the most out of my Prime membership.
>
>First, here are the features that I find myself using the most (I tried to find other tools with similar functionality to verify sbp's exclusivity claim and couldn't find any).
>
>Filter search results by Prime price. It is important to note that this is NOT the same as checking the Prime box on the regular Amazon search results page and using the price filters there. When you use Amazon native functionality and, say, specify your desired price range between 0 and 25 dollars and check the Prime box, you will get all items that have the lowest marketplace offer within that range. Prime price in that scenario may be greater than 25, but as long as there is a non-Prime seller with a listing within the range that you specified (not including shipping), the item will be included in search results. When you use the price range filter on sbp, you get ONLY items with a Prime price within that range.
>
>Sort by prime price (I guess that is where the name of the site comes from). Again, this is not the same as just sorting by price on the Amazon page and checking the Prime box. Similar to the explanation above, when you use Amazon's built-in search you are effectively sorting by lowest offer on each item excluding shipping. All the Prime check box does there is display the Prime price on search results, which is why the sorting always appears broken.
>Exclude Prime Pantry items. The introduction of Prime Pantry on Amazon always annoyed me. While I understand that the program has a certain value, the inability to exclude Pantry items from search results always drove me nuts and there seemingly no way to filter them out. Sbp was the only tool I found that provides you with the option to exclude Pantry items from search results.
>
>Lastly, this is not really a feature, but more of a side effect of how the tool is designed, I like that I can configure all my settings before opening the Amazon window, therefore saving the multiple postbacks of the entire page to get all the search parameters just right.
>Now, here are some recipes for cool things you can do on sortbyprime.
>
>Find thousands of free Kindle books:
>1. Select "Kindle Store" in the Department dropdown.
>2. Enter "-subscription" (note the minus sign in front) to exclude magazine subscriptions.
>3. Enter 0.01 in the Price To textbox.
>4. Select "All Merchants" in the Merchant dropdown,
>5. Hit the Go button and enjoy ~75,000 free Kindle eBooks.
>
>Find all Prime-delivered items that can be yours for less than the price of a postage stamp:
>1. Make sure "All Departments" is selected in the Department dropdown.
>2. Enter 0.02 in the Prime Price From textbox (to filter out free digital content) and 0.49 in the Prime Price To textbox (or any amount you like, I am entering the current price of a stamp for the sake of making a point).
>3. Make sure the Merchant dropdown is set to "Amazon".
>4. In the Add-On Items dropdown select "Exclude".
>5. In the Prime Pantry Items dropdown select "Exclude".
>6. Hit the Go button and enjoy your PVC Pipe Fitting (http://www.amazon.com/GF-Piping-Systems-Reducing-Schedule/dp/B008O1XHF2/) for 10 cents delivered to your house.
>
>Find cheap Subscribe & Save items to get the 15% S&S discount:
>1. Make sure "All Departments" is selected in the Department dropdown.
>2. Enter 1.50 in the Prime Price To textbox.
>3. Make sure the Merchant dropdown is set to "Amazon".
>4. In the Subscribe & Save Items Only dropdown select "Yes".
>5. Hit the Go button and save 15% on your entire S&S delivery when you subscribe to 5 or more items.
>
>Sorry if you guys already know all this, but I thought I'd share.

/u/viljedi suggested a guide for doing this yourself, so here is a quick one:

Parts List:

1 Temp controller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JP8DYFK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 Speed conroller: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L75LH30/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1x 3/4" NPT 6" long nipple: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003PDNEZM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2x 3/4" NPT lock nuts: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GXF5DU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1 12V blower fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CSNEO2G/ref=psdc_11036291_t1_B00B2ARV22 (this isn't what I used, I recycled one that was laying around at work, but something like this should work, you are looking for a high CFM).

You are going to need some form of AC to 12V power supply some wire and connectors, I couldn't find the one I ordered, but lots of options for these, the temperature controller turns on and off a regular AC outlet.

A probe mount holder like this is also nice, but maybe optional: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GXEC2BG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Set up:

Mechanical:

I removed the damper door used a well lubricated step bit on a drill press to cut just big enough of a hole for the NPT nipple to pass through. The metal was pretty soft, so this could probably be done with a regular drill. I then put one NPT lock nut on the nipple and threaded it all the way on, inserted into the damper door with the long end sticking out, and tightened the other lock nut to the inside of the damper door. The printed adapter slides onto the other end of the nipple and the fan is inserted into that. I made the clearances tight, so I didn't end up needing any hardware to secure it, it pretty much snapped into place.

Electrical:

Plug in the temperature controller to AC power, follow the directions in the package for setting the set point.. there is a high and low bound, it will turn on until it hits the high bound, and turn off until it cools to the low bound. I found I had the best luck keep these only 1 degree apart, I set the high to 275°F, and the low to 274°F. Wire the AC outlet on temperature controller to an AC to DC 12V power supply, and wire the 12V to the fan speed controller, and the fan speed controller to the fan. Plug in the probe and mount inside the grill area. The best place to put is just to the fire box side of the meat, near the middle.

Printed part design:

I used SolidWorks, I made 2 sketch planes 2" apart, I sketched the fan outlet shape plus about .030 of clearance on one plane, and on the other plane I made a circle the size of the ID of the nipple (I think my printed dimensions came out smaller, I had to do some sanding to get it to fit). I did a lofted base between the two sketch planes to make a nice transition from the rectangular outlet of than to the circular shape of the nipple. I then made an extrude on the fan end to make a sleeve for the fan to fit in, and extrude the size of the nipple OD +.030 clearance on the other size. I made a split on the nipple side to make a clamp mechanism and put a couple lugs, one side with a hex shaped hole in it for a nut, to clamp to the pipe, but I didn't end up using it, because it was tight enough with out

Since we are all talking about Prime, I am going to do a shameless plug for a tool that I wrote for all the prime-a-holics like me -- www.sortbyprime.com. With its help I can for once feel that I am taking advantage of Prime instead of Prime taking advantage of me.

Here are the things you can do with it (kindly written up by /u/cheresier):


Filter search results by Prime price. It is important to note that this is NOT the same as checking the Prime box on the regular Amazon search results page and using the price filters there. When you use Amazon native functionality and, say, specify your desired price range between 0 and 25 dollars and check the Prime box, you will get all items that have the lowest marketplace offer within that range. Prime price in that scenario may be greater than 25, but as long as there is a non-Prime seller with a listing within the range that you specified (not including shipping), the item will be included in search results. When you use the price range filter on sbp, you get ONLY items with a Prime price within that range.

Sort by prime price (I guess that is where the name of the site comes from). Again, this is not the same as just sorting by price on the Amazon page and checking the Prime box. Similar to the explanation above, when you use Amazon's built-in search you are effectively sorting by lowest offer on each item excluding shipping. All the Prime check box does there is display the Prime price on search results, which is why the sorting always appears broken.
Exclude Prime Pantry items. The introduction of Prime Pantry on Amazon always annoyed me. While I understand that the program has a certain value, the inability to exclude Pantry items from search results always drove me nuts and there seemingly no way to filter them out. Sbp was the only tool I found that provides you with the option to exclude Pantry items from search results.

Lastly, this is not really a feature, but more of a side effect of how the tool is designed, I like that I can configure all my settings before opening the Amazon window, therefore saving the multiple postbacks of the entire page to get all the search parameters just right.
Now, here are some recipes for cool things you can do on sortbyprime.

Find thousands of free Kindle books:

1. Select "Kindle Store" in the Department dropdown.
   
2. Enter "-subscription" (note the minus sign in front) to exclude magazine subscriptions.
   
3. Enter 0.01 in the Price To textbox.
   
4. Select "All Merchants" in the Merchant dropdown,
   
5. Hit the Go button and enjoy ~75,000 free Kindle eBooks.
   
   Find all Prime-delivered items that can be yours for less than the price of a postage stamp:
   
6. Make sure "All Departments" is selected in the Department dropdown.
   
7. Enter 0.02 in the Prime Price From textbox (to filter out free digital content) and 0.49 in the Prime Price To textbox (or any amount you like, I am entering the current price of a stamp for the sake of making a point).
   
8. Make sure the Merchant dropdown is set to "Amazon".
   
9. In the Add-On Items dropdown select "Exclude".
   
10. In the Prime Pantry Items dropdown select "Exclude".
    
11. Hit the Go button and enjoy your PVC Pipe Fitting (http://www.amazon.com/GF-Piping-Systems-Reducing-Schedule/dp/B008O1XHF2/) for 10 cents delivered to your house.
    
    Find cheap Subscribe & Save items to get the 15% S&S discount:
    
12. Make sure "All Departments" is selected in the Department dropdown.
    
13. Enter 1.50 in the Prime Price To textbox.
    
14. Make sure the Merchant dropdown is set to "Amazon".
    
15. In the Subscribe & Save Items Only dropdown select "Yes".
    
16. Hit the Go button and save 15% on your entire S&S delivery when you subscribe to 5 or more items.
    

Are you using an NPT or triclamp style tube? If you're using NPT (national pipe thread, american pipes in inches basically) you can get a brass NPT ball valve, a reducer to put into the valve for a smaller thread size, and another brass piece, this time a 1/4" flared end for gas. You'll need teflon pipe threading tape to seal everything up and a vice grip or a couple of pipe wrenches to put the thing together. You can get all of this on amazon.

If you have a device like in picture with triclamp ends you'd already know where to get all of this crap but www.glaciertanks.com and www.brewershardware.com sell all the triclamp pieces you will ever need. Glacier Tanks is in oregon and supports the CLS extractor community directly by selling pre-fabbed terpinator style lids and collection pots, Brewers Hardware has a bunch of stuff they don't carry though as well. I've used both and they are awesome. Brewers Hardware also has lower prices on a lot of stuff like the spools you'll be using as extraction tubes, and they sell the national pipe thread to triclamp ends that I'm gonna need to modify my own old open blast tubes (my 1-2 and 3-5oz tubes depending on material and how tight it packs) into CLS parts. I have a calculator setup i've figured out though for how big of a tube can fit how much material for CLS use though. a 3"x18" spool fits about a half pound (bhogart sells a 3"x36" as their 1LB unit and it fits roughly that), so I figured out its volume from there and I can figure out how big of a tube will fit say 1oz, 2 ounces, and so on. you don't need perfectly filled tubes with CLS extractors either, you can fluff the top with coffee filters so the butane disperses evenly on the top, and typically in a shower style unit like the Bhogart, the top few inches don't get properly extracted anyways if you fill it all the way to the brim. I try to leave 2-3 inches at the top of the 36" column bare so it can just shower down and it seems to work really well, but with a narrower tube size you will probably be okay.

IF you got this far, you also are going to want a can cracker. You can use it on the top of the pipe in lieu of the brass hose hookup by screwing it directly to the top, but you need to make sure you get the right fittings for it. It looks like the crackers they sell all have the 1/4" flare end facing the wrong angle, so you'll probably need the hose after all. here's the cracker and a link to the right type of hose, as well as a link to one of the fitting types (though maybe not in the right NPT thread you need).

cracker: http://smile.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421275663&sr=8-2&keywords=refrigerant+can+

PTFE lined chemical hose buying list. you want 1/4": http://smile.amazon.com/Unisource-Chemical-Assembly-Connection-Pressure/dp/B007USNQNI/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1421275772&sr=8-6&keywords=ptfe+lined+hose

the style of brass end you need: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B000WTXICQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

brass coupler to put the end into:
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B006PKMJCQ/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

something to put the brass coupler into to make it fit your valve: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00835RTY4/ref=biss_dp_t_asn
2" brass valve: http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0081LIGIS/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

ptfe tape: http://smile.amazon.com/Dixon-Valve-Coupling-TTB50-Temperature/dp/B00IIJB7F2/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1421277137&sr=1-3&keywords=ptfe+tape


after reading around, you said your pipe was 2" so i modified the list with everything you'd need to modify a 2" pipe.

So it looks like your faucet connections are some type of compression fitting. You shouldn't even need to tighten those just make sure they're nice and snug. Those supply lines your thinking about getting will work... but they look a bit short to me. I'd make sure they are at least 30" and even then that might still be short. If you really want to be sure I'd grab 2 additional 1/2 X 1/2 supply lines and two 1/2 X 1/2 brass MALE adapters and fasten your supply lines on either side of the adapter so that your left with 2 long supply lines. If you decide to go down that route I'd advise you head over to your local supply shop and grab a pair of channel locks preferably 420s. These little guys will make tightening everything much easier and I'm sure you'll have uses for them in the future. If you don't decide to do that you can do all the tightening easily enough with your wrench. Just make sure everything is more than just hand tight before you turn your water supply back on! Oh yeah and that plastic bag should all just be a bunch of spare bs. Hold onto it until the jobs done and then when your all good with no leaks you can just toss it.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQY9XW/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B518CVC1JP70MTR9420S

That's what you'd be looking for if you want to get adapters. Just make sure you don't get one with garden hose threads or something.

I saw this on pinterest the other day and I really want to build one. It totally matches my style. They are selling them on etsy for $285 with faucets and glycol lines, but I'm the kind of guy who never wants to spend money buying something I could conceivably build it myself, so I started pricing out pieces from amazon. You can see on the tee that it's a 2" tee, so I built everything else with 2" black iron pipe.

I know that people can sometimes find crazy deals on things like plumbing if you know where to look, so I'm putting it out there - who can help me find a cheaper price for the iron on this thing? I haven't found prices to be better at HD or Lowes vs amazon, and I like being able to get it all from one place as opposed to a bunch of different vendors.

2" to 1" bushings 2x $9.05

2" tee x1 $17.01

2" street elbow 2x $12.33

2" x 6" black iron nipple $9.85

2" floor flange $9.99

$79.61 with free shipping from amazon.

Okay, that's a broad question you are asking.

First you need a brush. Get a double action. I recommend either the badger patriot 105, or the iwata neo for your first brush.

You need a compressor. I used a cheap one off amazon pretty well until I upgraded to a larger California air tools silent compressor.

You want a moisture trap as well, plus an air hose.

As far as paints go I really like the Vallejo model air and game air paints. The game air paints have very vibrant colors, whereas the model air line is more like real camo colors from WW2

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004INERK4/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1511452252&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=iwata+neo&dpPl=1&dpID=31GV4HFiqIL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01LYHYHEA/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511452308&sr=8-1-fkmr0&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=california+silent+compressor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQO8W4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511452347&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=iwata+hose&dpPl=1&dpID=41K8ruY-CAL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SAO7QI/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1511452388&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=1%2F4+to+1%2F8+npt

That sounds like a pretty big canner that could probably support up to a 2" column. I'm assuming it's ss. There are many types and sizes of fittings you could use to adapt depending on the still type you want. Just to give you some ideas here's some fitting types you could use if you're thinking about either a column or a pot still: female npt lid adapter, male to male nipple - you can also find these in copper, female npt to copper tubing adapter, male npt to copper tubing adapter. Here's a plug. To sum up, figure out which type of still you want to build then use those types of fittings to get you started. That's just my two cents. Good luck!

I built one of these to use as a stripping still since I ferment in 5 gallon buckets. It works great actually. At the basic level all you'd need to do is cut a hole in it and tig weld (or silver solder) a fitting into it for a water heater element. I'm using a $10 110v 1500w water heater element. Throw the sidebar Pot Still head on it and you're golden.

Cuts are easier and more precise on a larger still for sure, but many of us started out with a stove-top kettle and it is possible to make acceptable cuts at that size. My first few spirit runs were done with a 3 gallon wash capacity pot still I made from a 4 gallon stainless steel cooking pot and the sidebar pot still arm. I'd say it rivaled any bottom-shelf commercial product, but I could be biased. It was definitely acceptable drink to me and everyone I shared it with.

I say if that's what you have room for, go for it. It will work well for you and you can always upgrade later to larger sizes if you have room.

You sya you don't have the tools to make the mash tun and brew pot. I assemlbe my mash tun, HLT, and brew pot with two 10inch adjustable wrenches, a standard dewalt drill, a carbonate cutting bit, a stepped cutting bit, and some cutting oil. If you have the drill everything else would cost around 50 bucks, then you also gain tools with your equipment. The hardest part is cutting holes in the pot for a thermometer.

Either way to make the Mashtun and MTL you would only need 2 10 inch adjustable wrenches.

Up to you, but here is some all grain kits you could look at:

http://www.austinhomebrew.com/10-Gallon-Igloo-Cooler-Mash-Tun-With-False-Bottom-AND-Hot-Liquor-Tank_p_6699.html

https://www.amazon.com/Gallon-Cooler-Stainless-Steel-Screen/dp/B013KJKAC0/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068034&sr=8-9&keywords=10+gallon+mash+tun

You can make a 10 gallon mash tun for under 100 dollars:

10 Gallon cooler (~$50)
https://www.amazon.com/Igloo-Gallon-Beverage-dispenser-Dispenser/dp/B000F6SHTK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068151&sr=8-1&keywords=10+gallon+cooler

Ball Valve(~$15)
https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-Brewing-Wl301-Stainless-Weldless/dp/B00OC8DXPA/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068175&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=wedless+ball+valve

Screen (~$8)
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Bazooka-Screen-Fitting/dp/B003ISY2DC/ref=pd_sim_468_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003ISY2DC&pd_rd_r=45GNPGH763R20241728C&pd_rd_w=MCZcu&pd_rd_wg=n4Wsv&psc=1&refRID=45GNPGH763R20241728C

1/2 female npt fitting(~$5)
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Fitting-Coupling-Female/dp/B003GSKXUU/ref=pd_sim_328_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003GSKXUU&pd_rd_r=SMJAVJR6CYZ7P9ZBQBQQ&pd_rd_w=h6v7j&pd_rd_wg=eclPX&psc=1&refRID=SMJAVJR6CYZ7P9ZBQBQQ

Total: 78 dollars. You can buy 2 10 inches adjustable wrenches for 20 dollars (https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-90-949-10-Inch-MaxSteel-Adjustable/dp/B000NIDIXA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486068379&sr=8-1&keywords=10+inch+adjustable+wrench)

so even having to buy tools its still under 100 dollars to make the Mash tun. The hot liquor tank will be the same price minus the screen, npt fitting, and tools. I personally made mine even cheaper buy using a 5 gallon htl instead of a 10 gallon and that will drop the price 25 more dollars. There is 0 drilling involved you simply unscrew the old plastic tap and put the weld ball valve in its place, it took me less than 10 min to make my new HTL on Monday.

Also, and this is really important to why I say build yourself, any mash tun you buy is going to be put together the same way it just matters whether you put it together or someone else does, either way the quality will be identical.

If you need a sparge arm for fly sparge you can make that out of pvc pipe: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q-jgmgbwvg4

My two cents, even though you don't believe in you. I do, if you feel like saving money you can absolutely make all this stuff yourself and it doesn't require you be good at anything more than thinking like a logical person.

http://www.brandtech.com/articles.asp?artid=13

get a valve.

Honestly... I went with a more expensive oil less vacuum pump. Those things are dirty. You need to be careful about potentially contaminating your brew with the oil spewing out of the pump.

If you're going to go this route I would recommend rigging up some sort of glove box to do the vacuuming in (make sure it's sealed from the exhaust of the pump... aka caulk some joints for the hoses to connect to - aka seal something like this (I didn't check the pipe sizes of any of this shit so figure that out) http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SAO7XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_lmIrub1RDNX7Y into this: http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Glove-Box/

here's a good video to illustrate what I'm talking about with the valve (you need a 3 way splitter to allow air into the vacuum line - the top example)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZe61UyL0lM

You can also turn it off/on and there's relay circuits for that (but they're more expensive). Honestly you should be ok with a valve I believe. Technically you should need more pressure as it filters as the filter gets more jammed up. So you wont be in a situation where it overloads it when you aren't paying attention (tho you need to watch it).

I'm not joking about the glove box. There's a reason they recommend oil less vacuum pumps for lab work (and they aren't cheap).

Yes the pump is for wort into the chiller. You could probably gravity feed it if the kettle was above the chiller. You also have to run santizer through the chiller before chilling, so the pump makes that easier.

I bought some cheap 14 gauge wire to wrap around the tube, it's just to maximize water-copper contact which helps a lot with cooler.

For the fittings I bought the following, for each end:
1/4 female tee
1/2" barb x 1/4 NPT x2
1/4 x 1/4 compression fitting

Easiest thing to do it just go to a local hardware store, start with a 1/4" x 10ft copper tube in your hand then start looking at the brass fittings and piece it together in front of you. How you attach it to your sink will depend on your faucet, I had to mcgyver a stupid reducer and hose clamp setup. Most hardware store reps could help you piece it all together if you have a photo and know your faucet size.

I am trying to connect an RO type faucet like this
to a standard sink supply line. Id like to tee off of the sink supply line to provide the faucet with its own water supply (it will have an inline filter). I am not sure of the correct reducers to get for this. I ordered this
but the male end is just a touch too large. I am obviously not the most knowledgeable when it comes to plumbing sizes, but I would greatly appreciate any help!

yup, silicone tube and a ball valve to control the flow if I'm feeling fancy. I also put together a little u-bend out of these three pieces so I can just hook it to the lip of the mash & boil. I have this pump which was nice because some of those tan pumps don't come pre-wired with a dc plug

the immersion chiller is a major key, and with the pump whirlpooling my wort I've actually found that I can cool 5 gallons quicker than when I was doing 2 gallon brews lol

Do you mean 1/4 barrel? I'm making a Boka out of a 1/2 barrel keg (15.5 gal). Here's what I've bought:

5' of 2" copper DVW pipe - Local hardware store
25' of 1/4" copper refrigeration coil - Local hardware store
Stainless steel pot-scrubbers - Walmart

Clamp ferrule:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00835O0J6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1500W heating element: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006IX89Q/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fitting for heating element:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GSL0S4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Triclamp:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ED2EZCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Triclamp gasket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013S1M75I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thermometer:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0198473E4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A24QHZSKPYNZBC

Flux:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V88WJW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lead-free solder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JM8D6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I am going to start by forgoing the Liebig condenser as I don't think its terribly necessary and it can always be added easily just after the compression-fitted valve. The hardest part was finding 5' of copper pipe, everyplace wanted to sell me 10' and the prices were all over the place.

Hope this helps!

Ooo didn't know no one was able to find something less than 38 cents!

!Here's one](http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B008HQ5N88/ref=nosim/krisssoccersi-20/)!

And I had a nice long nap today after I got off work! lol

I've shared this here before and it's worth mentioning here too.

I take lawn/garden pressure sprayer and replace the end with a sink sprayer. You'll also need a fitting to connect them which is likely this but you can't know for sure until you have the garden sprayer in hand. This gives me very simple, one handed control over a relatively low flow water sprayer that's designed for rinsing soap off of things.

It's simple, cheap, it doesn't take any electricity and works really well. I can take a full shower including shampoo and conditioning long hair with less than a gallon of water.

Thanks for the reply. i have gone to almost every hardware store looking for a tee like that. I might have to suck it up and order online. If I threaded the inner diameter of the flange would a threaded male pvc adapter work? like http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008HQ5N88/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1383141636&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70

I'm glad to see more people are mentioning this, it's (IMO) a much better way to leak test without the risk of actual leaks. Some Amazon links for my current setup:

You'll need a pressure gauge, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087UCI8C/ has a relatively low maximum for high sensitivity (easy to see if there's a drop)

You'll need a valve you can hook a hand pump on to (like what you'd use to pump up a bike tire -- I don't recommend an electric pump because of the low pressure you need). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PLI4BA/ is in the same threading as the gauge.

You'll need a tee to connect these things to -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQUTBS/

Finally, connecting the tee to your rig. I take a scrap of tubing, put a fitting on one end, and slip the other over: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CFNKBO/ (check for your tube's inside diameter!).

Assembly is pretty straightforward, wrap some pipe tape around each component's threads and screw into the tee. Before connecting to your rig, you may want to cap the open end and pressurize it a bit to make sure you're not starting with any leaks. Connect in to your fill or drain port as appropriate, and slowly pressurize the system. You don't need a ton, only 8-10 psi is plenty, and is more than the water will be operating at. Mark the gauge position, and come back in a few hours. If the needle has moved, you've got a leak -- you can swab glycerin or dawn soap around your seals to find where. If not, you know that air at higher than normal operating pressure isn't leaking out, and that's a nice tolerance to know you have!

Here is what I did (from a past post):

Below is the parts list I put together, along with the full view of the build if your looking to do something like it.

4 Shanks $46

1 10" nipple $12

1 Pipe T $20

2 Elbow $26

2 Bushings $14

1 Floor Flange $13

2 2" Nipple $13


Also, I bought the CMBecker faucets for around $40 a piece from kegconnection

Kegerator Full View

Also, I've seen some decent PVC tower builds, just Google them

Ok dude I got you bro...I want you to check 2 thinks for me. Check to make sure that the plastic duck work from the mass air flow sensor to the throttle body is all attached properly and secured. Play close attention to where it is hooked up to the throttle body with that 8 mm hex on the gear clamp on the driver side that you have to fish through with an extension to tighten. if that all looks good, I want you to take a look on the passenger side front of the valve cover and you will see a small plastic hose that goes forward into the plastic ductwork. Where that hose attaches to the plastic duct the nipple breaks off and then you get a vacuum leak. I would be very surprised if that was not your problem. If that plastic nipple has broken off, go to the hardware store and get a threaded 1/2 inch Barb that you can put a half inch hose onto, heat it up, and twisted into where the plastic piece broke on and then install the hose. like this, but 1/2"

I posted this the other day but a Reddit user suggested I paint it black to have it absorb more heat so I figured I'd post up the finished product. If anyone is interested here's the materials I used, just cut the rubber hose attached to a new clean insecticide sprayer, attach adapter, put on your hose and boom, camp shower with fairly decent water pressure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SAO7XQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GZZFXA/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039EEN0M/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll go in order from the CO2 tank down the line:

• 10lb Aluminum tank, bought at local welding/gas supply
  
  
• This 2-stage CO2 Regulator
  
  
• Replaced the output fitting with one of these
  
  
• Then I have a smaller regulator reduce the line pressure down to a stable 15 psi - I find that the more regs, the better for stable pressure.
  
  
• That leads to two solenoids, one for each tank. You can buy the cheapish milwakee one, or anything that uses 1/4" npt fittings if you can find a better deal.
  
  
• After each solenoid I have a T-junction to a gas pressure sensor reading back to my controller, and the other outlet to the final regulator. You can use the one above, or one of these
  
  
• No need for a needle valve at this point. Go to your bubble counter and then up to your tank.
  
  
• On my big tank I am using a reactor instead of the normal ceramic diffuser I have on the small one.

I ferment in 10 gallon cornies and I just built myself a spunding valve to use as a test. Wasn't that hard the main bit is the valve itself, which I got off Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GDY3CU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FYI58S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQUTBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then some fiddly bits to go from the Tee to the QD for the keg.

Best I could do was 31 cents

29!

Homebrew Materials:

Vacuum Pump Oil

Vacuum Tubing

1/4" Barb x 1/4" NPT Male Hose Fitting

1/4" Male x 1/4" Female NPT Extension Hose

Vacuum Pump

Filters

Spatulas

Magnetic Stir Bar

Digital Hotplate with Magnetic Stirrer

Nitrile Gloves (Better than Latex)

Empty Capsules (Buy Separated unless you hate your life)

Capsule Machine (If you value your sanity, buy more than a 100... I hated my life doing this)

Mohr Pipets

Pipette 10ml

Mortar and Pestle (If you're doing orals, get this... Otherwise, you're playing Russian Roulette with your doses and liver)

Funnel (For pouring into small places)

Alconox (For clean your shit)

Temperature Gun (How hot is my shit?)

Graduated Cylinder (If you measure with beakers, you're a fucking idiot... And you should consider Volumetric Flasks)

Beaker Set

1 Liter Beaker (Because brewing en'masse is better)

Scale (I have a 2kg one, too)

Calibration Weight Set

Calibration Weight 100g (Because you need two for the scale linked)

Vacuum Regulator (Unless you want to filter 9001 times due to broken shit)

Oil (Any USP grade, filtered or unfitlered)

BB

BA

Butyl Stoppers

Flip Top Seals

Crimper

Vials (Unsealed)

Autoclave (Cheaper than an oven, why are you using an oven?!)

Weight Boats (Buy a million of these. They're cheap and useful)

Did I miss something? Probably. Yes.