I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.

The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.

> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.

> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.

Original second level comment begins:

Final Tips: Bonus Round!

1. Extruder Indicators are pretty cool (and USEFUL). You can get the magnets super cheap (or amazon).
   
2. Learn how to do An Atomic Pull (AKA Cold Pull), and learn it well. Do this every time you switch filaments (See "Doing it the lazy way" at the bottom of the page). You'll help remove built up deposits each time, which will help ensure a long, jam free life for you nozzle. This also skips the bleeding necessary when switching filaments (on your next "Load" you'll get a few mm of old filament and then pretty much pure new filament after that, instead of the 100mm or so of transition). You can skip doing a proper Cold Pull if you're using a brand new printer anyway. Just do a lazy pull each time you switch filaments, and then a proper Cold Pull maybe every 100 print hours, or after using extremely difficult (wet or super exotic) filaments to help remove any residue that may cause future jams or other issues. This does require undoing and redoing the idler tension again, but once you've done it a few times you can do the whole pull and filament swap in under a minute (minus hotend heatup/cooldown time). White Nylon is great for proper Cold Pulls, partially because you can crank the temp up very high (which ensures any residual filament in the hot end should also melt), White PLA would be okay for example, but may not properly pull PETG or ABS from the nozzle. White is great thanks to the color, of course, which allows you to see any residue easier; However, any color may be used. If you only ever use PLA, then PLA would be just fine for a Cold Pull. Seriously though, start by doing Cold Pulls from Day 1 and you'll easily cut out 50% of your future issues.
   
3. The small metric fasteners used in the printer are cheap. They are used in a lot of designs found online, so you should stock up (alternate source). The primary fasteners used are M3 Socket Head Cap 0.5 pitch, mostly full thread. You can also get the nuts very cheap. Square, Nyloc, and Hex. I can get the exact lengths used in the Mk3 if anyone needs them, though I'm not sure the exact grade used, it only really effects corrosion resistance.
   
4. You can also Calibrate the Extruder steps/mm and extrusion multiplier. Many people will tell you only the later is necessary but I prefer to do both anyway. Theoretically it does make a difference, but practically you can just compensate for steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier, and for all intents and purposes the result is the same, so "many people" are totally right.
   
5. You can also Calibrate the PID. You probably won't have to do this for PLA out of the box, but may find you have some temperature swings with PETG or ABS temperatures. The Official Help Article also discusses this method and how to calibrate using the LCD if you prefer. I like to keep my Mk3 settings vanilla (I've never used an M500 directly, and avoid them when I can), so I like to get my PID values manually and set them in my start GCode instead, which also allows me to setup my slicer so each switching filaments automatically switches PID profiles. The bed can be calibrated as well, but again you probably won't need to do this unless you're experiencing temperature swings more than -/+ 5°. One or two degree dips/spikes is perfectly normal (though theoretically can be tuned out, requires proper enclosure for stable ambient temps, etc).
   
   There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:
   
   

• Wire Snips beat the included pliers hands down. For $4 how are you not going to pick these up right now? The cutting edge on a pair of pliers sucks and it doesn't help that it's ****ing halfway down the length of the tool. I tried to get away with just using the included tools and simply gave up trying to use the included pliers to cut zip ties. If you have Prime, get a pair of these now. Get a pair even if you don't - they're worth the shipping cost too. Thank me later.
  
• 608 bearings (for prints such as TUSH),
  
• Loctite 222 (helps prevent screws from vibrating free, not necessary thanks to Nylocs used in Mk3),
  
• A humidity sensor (for filament dry box and checking ambient),
  
• An accurate scale (for calculating remaining filament),
  
• A small fan (enhanced print cooling when needed (not very necessary except for ultra extreme bridges), enhanced circulation in filament dry box),
  
• Small bags (for silica beads),
  
• PTFE tube and matching Bowden Couplers (for something like Spannerhands),
  
• Lubit-8 (for the LMU88 bearings),
  
• SuperLube (Silicone Grease w/ PTFE for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Canola Oil (for lubricating/cleaning filament and seasoning the nozzle/hotend (not necessary with modern hotends)),
  
• Small Brass Brush (also for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Nozzle Reams (for the extremely rare jam, because you're doing your Atomic Pulls, right?),
  
• Extra Nozzles (no need for the kit, just an example. Hardened nozzles (black) are a good idea for composites, last longer than Brass, regardless of filament used. Prusa Mk3 comes with 0.4mm nozzle preinstalled, but you can easily swap the nozzle),
  
• E3D Hotend Sock (helps lock in heat for (theoretically?) lower current usage and more stable temperatures, also helps keep plastic off the heat block in case of print failure),
  
• Magigoo (or other adhesion aids) (for certain exotic filaments, otherwise not necessary with Mk3),
  
• Tempered Glass or Borosilicate printbeds (for certain exotic filaments),
  
• And of course, Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or better, preferably 91% or better) and Acetone, just to name a few...
  
  Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..
  
  ^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!

>Recently I clicked on a sponsored post that claimed that there is a way to hack Amazon search functionality and force it to do undocumented things. The link pointed to a site called SortByPrime (http://www.sortbyprime.com). I was skeptical at first, but after using the site for a few weeks I must say it is indeed pretty amazing. The site itself is bare bones with no documentation provided, so I thought I would write up some of the things that I learned to do with that tool in order to make the most out of my Prime membership.
>
>First, here are the features that I find myself using the most (I tried to find other tools with similar functionality to verify sbp's exclusivity claim and couldn't find any).
>
>Filter search results by Prime price. It is important to note that this is NOT the same as checking the Prime box on the regular Amazon search results page and using the price filters there. When you use Amazon native functionality and, say, specify your desired price range between 0 and 25 dollars and check the Prime box, you will get all items that have the lowest marketplace offer within that range. Prime price in that scenario may be greater than 25, but as long as there is a non-Prime seller with a listing within the range that you specified (not including shipping), the item will be included in search results. When you use the price range filter on sbp, you get ONLY items with a Prime price within that range.
>
>Sort by prime price (I guess that is where the name of the site comes from). Again, this is not the same as just sorting by price on the Amazon page and checking the Prime box. Similar to the explanation above, when you use Amazon's built-in search you are effectively sorting by lowest offer on each item excluding shipping. All the Prime check box does there is display the Prime price on search results, which is why the sorting always appears broken.
>Exclude Prime Pantry items. The introduction of Prime Pantry on Amazon always annoyed me. While I understand that the program has a certain value, the inability to exclude Pantry items from search results always drove me nuts and there seemingly no way to filter them out. Sbp was the only tool I found that provides you with the option to exclude Pantry items from search results.
>
>Lastly, this is not really a feature, but more of a side effect of how the tool is designed, I like that I can configure all my settings before opening the Amazon window, therefore saving the multiple postbacks of the entire page to get all the search parameters just right.
>Now, here are some recipes for cool things you can do on sortbyprime.
>
>Find thousands of free Kindle books:
>1. Select "Kindle Store" in the Department dropdown.
>2. Enter "-subscription" (note the minus sign in front) to exclude magazine subscriptions.
>3. Enter 0.01 in the Price To textbox.
>4. Select "All Merchants" in the Merchant dropdown,
>5. Hit the Go button and enjoy ~75,000 free Kindle eBooks.
>
>Find all Prime-delivered items that can be yours for less than the price of a postage stamp:
>1. Make sure "All Departments" is selected in the Department dropdown.
>2. Enter 0.02 in the Prime Price From textbox (to filter out free digital content) and 0.49 in the Prime Price To textbox (or any amount you like, I am entering the current price of a stamp for the sake of making a point).
>3. Make sure the Merchant dropdown is set to "Amazon".
>4. In the Add-On Items dropdown select "Exclude".
>5. In the Prime Pantry Items dropdown select "Exclude".
>6. Hit the Go button and enjoy your PVC Pipe Fitting (http://www.amazon.com/GF-Piping-Systems-Reducing-Schedule/dp/B008O1XHF2/) for 10 cents delivered to your house.
>
>Find cheap Subscribe & Save items to get the 15% S&S discount:
>1. Make sure "All Departments" is selected in the Department dropdown.
>2. Enter 1.50 in the Prime Price To textbox.
>3. Make sure the Merchant dropdown is set to "Amazon".
>4. In the Subscribe & Save Items Only dropdown select "Yes".
>5. Hit the Go button and save 15% on your entire S&S delivery when you subscribe to 5 or more items.
>
>Sorry if you guys already know all this, but I thought I'd share.

Since we are all talking about Prime, I am going to do a shameless plug for a tool that I wrote for all the prime-a-holics like me -- www.sortbyprime.com. With its help I can for once feel that I am taking advantage of Prime instead of Prime taking advantage of me.

Here are the things you can do with it (kindly written up by /u/cheresier):


Filter search results by Prime price. It is important to note that this is NOT the same as checking the Prime box on the regular Amazon search results page and using the price filters there. When you use Amazon native functionality and, say, specify your desired price range between 0 and 25 dollars and check the Prime box, you will get all items that have the lowest marketplace offer within that range. Prime price in that scenario may be greater than 25, but as long as there is a non-Prime seller with a listing within the range that you specified (not including shipping), the item will be included in search results. When you use the price range filter on sbp, you get ONLY items with a Prime price within that range.

Sort by prime price (I guess that is where the name of the site comes from). Again, this is not the same as just sorting by price on the Amazon page and checking the Prime box. Similar to the explanation above, when you use Amazon's built-in search you are effectively sorting by lowest offer on each item excluding shipping. All the Prime check box does there is display the Prime price on search results, which is why the sorting always appears broken.
Exclude Prime Pantry items. The introduction of Prime Pantry on Amazon always annoyed me. While I understand that the program has a certain value, the inability to exclude Pantry items from search results always drove me nuts and there seemingly no way to filter them out. Sbp was the only tool I found that provides you with the option to exclude Pantry items from search results.

Lastly, this is not really a feature, but more of a side effect of how the tool is designed, I like that I can configure all my settings before opening the Amazon window, therefore saving the multiple postbacks of the entire page to get all the search parameters just right.
Now, here are some recipes for cool things you can do on sortbyprime.

Find thousands of free Kindle books:

1. Select "Kindle Store" in the Department dropdown.
   
2. Enter "-subscription" (note the minus sign in front) to exclude magazine subscriptions.
   
3. Enter 0.01 in the Price To textbox.
   
4. Select "All Merchants" in the Merchant dropdown,
   
5. Hit the Go button and enjoy ~75,000 free Kindle eBooks.
   
   Find all Prime-delivered items that can be yours for less than the price of a postage stamp:
   
6. Make sure "All Departments" is selected in the Department dropdown.
   
7. Enter 0.02 in the Prime Price From textbox (to filter out free digital content) and 0.49 in the Prime Price To textbox (or any amount you like, I am entering the current price of a stamp for the sake of making a point).
   
8. Make sure the Merchant dropdown is set to "Amazon".
   
9. In the Add-On Items dropdown select "Exclude".
   
10. In the Prime Pantry Items dropdown select "Exclude".
    
11. Hit the Go button and enjoy your PVC Pipe Fitting (http://www.amazon.com/GF-Piping-Systems-Reducing-Schedule/dp/B008O1XHF2/) for 10 cents delivered to your house.
    
    Find cheap Subscribe & Save items to get the 15% S&S discount:
    
12. Make sure "All Departments" is selected in the Department dropdown.
    
13. Enter 1.50 in the Prime Price To textbox.
    
14. Make sure the Merchant dropdown is set to "Amazon".
    
15. In the Subscribe & Save Items Only dropdown select "Yes".
    
16. Hit the Go button and save 15% on your entire S&S delivery when you subscribe to 5 or more items.
    

So it looks like your faucet connections are some type of compression fitting. You shouldn't even need to tighten those just make sure they're nice and snug. Those supply lines your thinking about getting will work... but they look a bit short to me. I'd make sure they are at least 30" and even then that might still be short. If you really want to be sure I'd grab 2 additional 1/2 X 1/2 supply lines and two 1/2 X 1/2 brass MALE adapters and fasten your supply lines on either side of the adapter so that your left with 2 long supply lines. If you decide to go down that route I'd advise you head over to your local supply shop and grab a pair of channel locks preferably 420s. These little guys will make tightening everything much easier and I'm sure you'll have uses for them in the future. If you don't decide to do that you can do all the tightening easily enough with your wrench. Just make sure everything is more than just hand tight before you turn your water supply back on! Oh yeah and that plastic bag should all just be a bunch of spare bs. Hold onto it until the jobs done and then when your all good with no leaks you can just toss it.



https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BQY9XW/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=B518CVC1JP70MTR9420S

That's what you'd be looking for if you want to get adapters. Just make sure you don't get one with garden hose threads or something.

I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!

• Lighting
  
  • T-5 Grow light (came with 6500K bulbs)
    
  • 2700K bulbs
    
  • Grow light hangers
    
• Grow medium
  
  • Net Cups
    
  • Black Buckets
    
  • Black lids
    
• Nutrients
  
  • General Hydroponics Flora Series
    
  • General Hydroponics pH control kit
    
  • pH/EC/Temp Meters
    
• Grow tent
  
• Air ventilation
  
  • The only thing I ended up using from this kit was the cheapest part, the ventilation duct...
    
  • The fan from this kit is way too powerful for my setup because my humidifier couldn't keep up
    
  • I didn't use the carbon filter because I'm not growing weed.
    
• Water Distiller
  
• Humidifier
  
  • The cheaper the humidifier, the better. I first bought (and destroyed) one that had some sort of digital switch, so it would always be in the off state when you first supply power to it, meaning you can't turn it on/off with just a relay.
    
• Plumbing
  
  • Aquatec 8852 booster pump
    
  • 2 Gallon accumulator tank
    
  • Pressure relief valve
    
  • Tubing
    
  • Inline Pre-filter (Sorry they must have taken the product down...)
    
  • Misting nozzle T's
    
  • Tube ball valves
    
  • Analog pressure gauge
    
  • Misting Nozzles
    
    • Note that these nozzles are meant for WAY higher pressure systems (~1000psi) and I actually had to take out the spring for them to operate correctly, but they never clogged up, are easy to clean, and worked perfectly for me!
      
• Electronics
  
  • Raspberry Pi 3 kit
    
  • Humidity sensor
    
  • Pressure sensor
    
  • Water solenoid valve
    
  • 5V 4-channel relay module
    
  • Analog-to-digital converter
    
  • 24V to 12V converter
    
  • 24V Power supply
    
  • Resistor kit
    
  • Semiconductor kit
    
  • Circuit boards
    
  • Standoffs
    
• Wiring
  
  • 22 gauge stranded wire
    
  • 22 gauge solid wire
    
  • Power supply cord
    
• Connectors
  
  • Electronic Connectors
    
    • JST-XHP Connectors
      
    • JST-SM Connectors
      
    • Dupont Connectors
      
  • Plumbing Connectors
    
    • Bulkhead connectors
      
    • Quick-connect kit
      
    • NPT to quick-connect connector
      
      I also bought various tools, like crimpers, Dremel kit, drill, etc, but I don't consider those to be project-specific as I'll have them for the foreseeable future. Let me know if there's anything you see that you think I missed!
      

Hey mahm0udin

I use the 5 gal version now, but I think the 10 Gal would be perfect for both methods because you get a healthy grain bed for filtering when brewing big or small.

You will want to install a Weldless ball valve with a Nipple on the inside of the mash tun.

You will also want one of these false bottoms and a piece of silicon pipe to join it to the internal ball valve nipple

Woo, that was a lot of links :) This is my setup and it works a treat :)

Hey friend. you're on the right track with your idea to drill a hole and plumb it to a larger tank. Be careful when you choose the spot to drill. You don't want to drill in to a very round side, as that will be harder to make watertight. i would recommend trying to find a nice flat spot, just below the max fill of that unit's tank, and then drilling a hole for a bulkhead fitting(so that its watertight) and then just attach a hose to the drain end of the fitting and you can just set the other end of the hose in to a 5 gallon bucket below the unit or something.


a 1/2 bulkhead fitting is less than 5$ on amazon(also might not hurt to look around for a smaller sized one of these, as a 1 1/2" hole may be kind of big for this small tank) i only looked around for a second.
https://www.amazon.com/Lifegard-Aquatics-Standard-Threaded-Bulkhead/dp/B0002Z7U1K/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=bulkhead+drain+with+gasket&qid=1565284477&s=gateway&sr=8-15


If you go with this route, i would get a step bit (drill bit for drilling a precise hole by gradually widening it)
https://www.amazon.com/Knoweasy-Sizes-Titanium-Drill-Drilling/dp/B07NKXLTCB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=step+bit&qid=1565284634&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMEU0WExMM0Y1NUNZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDQzOTM5RjNOQkZRRFgzUVFXJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwODExNDgyUEtUR1lBS1NJNzM4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


then you would just need a female 1/2 thread to 1/4" barbed fitting and some 1/4 tubing to run to the bucket. I have similar setups to this for top-off tanks in my hydro systems. If you need any help figuring it out and sourcing parts, just shoot me a message!


Best of luck!!

>do you have any clamps/ gaskets you could suggest?


I just search for 2" Tri clamp on amazon and get what's cheapest. mind you it took me maybe a year to get all the pieces together when I built my system. something similar to these ones with the ferrules and the PTFE gaskets are great. I got a couple of those. there is a thing some guys do with certain wall thicknesses of copper where they can press fit the SS ferrule onto the pipe by freezing the SS and heating up the copper.

>Also can I pester you once I start putting all these components together?


please do. I'd be happy to see how your progress goes.

8gal should be plenty for a kettle. I bought my stainless steel kettle from AIH and I believe they start at 69 with 1 spout. You will need to buy the ball valve and barb fitting but those can be around $15-$20 on amazon. I have another kettle that s aluminum with a spout that was dirt cheap on amazon. They go on sale sometimes for $40ish for 8-10gal, I dont remember which.

The darkstar burner from northern brewer is $a reasonable $50. If you wanted to get something cheaper you would need to scour craigslist.

I am pretty new to brewing still but I stayed away from glass fermenters just because of all the horror photos I have seen on here and HBT. I have 3 plastic fermenters but I haven't yet had 2 going at the same time. If you are in NorCal I would gladly give donate one to you.

As for the rest of the smaller stuff, I would try and find a LHBS. Prices shouldn't vary that much from online. Or you could spring for a kit from nothern brewer that should come with everything.

I have yet to keg so no info on that, but I like bottling. It makes it easier to share with friends and is more portable.

Thanks! That is the 1/2 HP pump I was looking at instead of the 3/4 HP one if I decided to go with a water powered backup solution. However, I think I may go with battery backup instead.

​

This Wayne WSS30V is 1/2 HP all-in-one combo with battery backup and also has an alarm built in. I think this is what I'm leaning towards at this point. I was also looking at that Mighty Max for the battery, or this Duracell Ultra Deep Cycle Battery for 12V Sump Pump if it's okay to use (let me know what you think).

​

I ordered one of these Zoeller PVC Plastic Check Valves. Do I need two on the combo unit, or is just one okay?

​

I have this Basement Watchdog Dual Float Sump Pump Switch with Controller on my current pump and was just going to transfer it over to the new one using the metal clamp it came with.

​

Any other suggestions or information is greatly appreciated. Thanks again for all your help!

I built one of these to use as a stripping still since I ferment in 5 gallon buckets. It works great actually. At the basic level all you'd need to do is cut a hole in it and tig weld (or silver solder) a fitting into it for a water heater element. I'm using a $10 110v 1500w water heater element. Throw the sidebar Pot Still head on it and you're golden.

Cuts are easier and more precise on a larger still for sure, but many of us started out with a stove-top kettle and it is possible to make acceptable cuts at that size. My first few spirit runs were done with a 3 gallon wash capacity pot still I made from a 4 gallon stainless steel cooking pot and the sidebar pot still arm. I'd say it rivaled any bottom-shelf commercial product, but I could be biased. It was definitely acceptable drink to me and everyone I shared it with.

I say if that's what you have room for, go for it. It will work well for you and you can always upgrade later to larger sizes if you have room.

I just bought these and they're threaded on both sides so that what you linked to (or these which I also bought) should fit. I put them on some 5gal buckets and the seal is working great. Pretty happy with the setup so far :)

The only piece I had to fabricate is the little black cube in the top. I made that from a piece of 1/2" acrylic. I drilled a 90 degree hole into the top and side of it. Then used epoxy to attach it to the fan with the wires going through it. I had to snip the wire adapter off to do this. The holes I drilled into the cube were the exact same diameter of the male piece of the quick connect barb. This kept it snug but also allowed it to rotate in the hole.

Next, I then fished the wires through the quick connect fittings and through the quick connect bulkhead. After the wiring was all the way though, i re-soldered the wire adapter and used heat shrink tubing to seal it all together.

Once everything was wired up I connected the fans to a 4 channel PC fan controller and fired it up. I do have to say I am very happy with the results.fan closeups

All parts were bought on amazon or ebay. Mistkings fittings while black are nice, they are very expensive compared to the white ones I found on amazon. The fans were bought on ebay and were very cheap. I estimate I built 4 of the fans for about $30.00 USD

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vktech-5Pcs-Black-Brushless-DC-Cooling-Blower-Fan-5015S-5V-0-1-0-3A-50x15mm-/183518100748?hash=item2aba87fd0c


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGR2ILM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ2PLCR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's actually super easy. Bought everything off amazon.

• ice line kit, attach to your water line under sink
  
  
• Solenoid Valve 1/4", splice 12v plug and into a timer or wifi timer.
  
  
• Attach water line inlet to tank
  
  
• Drill hole in tank or use overflow box for water outlet. I made my own
  
  
• Optional, get water filter if your water is chlorinated, check valve for safety, 1 gph drip emitter for better flow control.
  
  I'll make a full guide later

http://www.brandtech.com/articles.asp?artid=13

get a valve.

Honestly... I went with a more expensive oil less vacuum pump. Those things are dirty. You need to be careful about potentially contaminating your brew with the oil spewing out of the pump.

If you're going to go this route I would recommend rigging up some sort of glove box to do the vacuuming in (make sure it's sealed from the exhaust of the pump... aka caulk some joints for the hoses to connect to - aka seal something like this (I didn't check the pipe sizes of any of this shit so figure that out) http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002SAO7XQ/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_lmIrub1RDNX7Y into this: http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Glove-Box/

here's a good video to illustrate what I'm talking about with the valve (you need a 3 way splitter to allow air into the vacuum line - the top example)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DZe61UyL0lM

You can also turn it off/on and there's relay circuits for that (but they're more expensive). Honestly you should be ok with a valve I believe. Technically you should need more pressure as it filters as the filter gets more jammed up. So you wont be in a situation where it overloads it when you aren't paying attention (tho you need to watch it).

I'm not joking about the glove box. There's a reason they recommend oil less vacuum pumps for lab work (and they aren't cheap).

This is basically what I use...

The basics:

• Tote for your res
  
  
• Digital timer
  
  
• Pump
  
  
• Manifold (has an assortment of flow rate inserts so you can set it up how you want)
  
  
• fitting to attach hose from pump to manifold
  
  
• pump-to-manifold tubing
  
  
• Drip tubing
  
  Extras, that make things nice and easy:
  
  
• FloraFlex cap for even distribution through the medium
  
  
• Floraflex clips to hold the drip lines in place
  
  
  If you feed drain-to-waste, you'll want to come up with some way to collect runoff. Maybe something like THIS small HD tote, with a few holes drilled through the top. Just set your plant on top and it will collect all your runoff.

Wow Thanks for the descriptive response!


I'm not very great at electronics, but here is the exact switch I'm using.

As for power source, I'm probably going to use 110 VAC to power the 4 ch relay board. http://www.amazon.com/SainSmart-101-70-101-4-Channel-Relay-Module/dp/B0057OC5O8

This is the solenoid I will be using


Thanks! Your post really helped me think it through. Just need to put it to work lol.

Monoprice uses really cheap non-standard parts, sorry yours broke. Mine did the same thing a couple weeks ago.

What you really should do is buy this metal extruder assembly for $7, as the 3D printed ones I tried just didn't work well, and I tried several.

You'll also need these new connectors, they're cheap and you can also replace the crappy one on the other end of the Bowden tube while you're at it.

After removing the grub screw on the old extruder gear, use some heat, like a heat gun or a hair dryer, to help you pull off the old extruder feeding gear. Trust me, it's worth it. This new one is million times better. No skipping, no jams, no underextrusion. I suffered with that problem for ever! It all came down to cheap parts.

You should re-callibrate your e-steps, as it's honestly super easy. I think 100 was the number I used. The default is 92, so if you don't want to it won't be that far off.

Edit: /u/Karzdan, this will 100% fix your issue. My print quality really improved, this small upgrade made a huge, huge difference for me. This new spring is much stronger, and the new teeth really grip the filament.

Looks awesome. I set up an automatic daily water-changer in mine. I let it drain thru a hose-timer connected near the bottom thru a standard garden hose for 2 hours, and I keep a float valve on a second hose-timer to fill it back up.

​

tl;dr

hose timer (1 to drain and 1 to fill): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M676JAS/

float valve: https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I

you'll need 2 hoses as well. the timer on the drain end gets clogged sometimes but thats the best i could come up with so far

Funny this comes out the day all the parts for my spund build arrive. Good stuff! Got the parts in question from the chi company, valve and gauge off amazon.

spunding valve

1/4” NPT male x 1/4” JIC female

Nylon Flare Fitting Washers (1/4”)

Stainless Tee 1/4” x 1/4” x 1/4” NPT

Quick Disconnect - gas MFL

Pressure Relief Valve Adjustable Pressure 0-100psi 1/4” NPT

Pressure Gauge 60psi 1/4” NPT

yup, silicone tube and a ball valve to control the flow if I'm feeling fancy. I also put together a little u-bend out of these three pieces so I can just hook it to the lip of the mash & boil. I have this pump which was nice because some of those tan pumps don't come pre-wired with a dc plug

the immersion chiller is a major key, and with the pump whirlpooling my wort I've actually found that I can cool 5 gallons quicker than when I was doing 2 gallon brews lol

I think I've got it figured out, but I could use a help figuring out / confirming the parts and connections for a recirculating line cleaner for my keezer.


When I purchased the Mark II Keg & Carboy Washer it came with an inline attachment for the post that allows you to connect tubing on the side. I've done that and attached a swivel nut with a 1/4" barb so that I can hook up a gas or liquid disconnect and divert some of the flow into the gas or liquid dip tube while cleaning a keg.


Using the same pump and the abovementioned setup, would getting a pair of these (is this the right size threading?) and attaching them to either end of a length of tubing do the job? This would, in theory, connect the swivel nut at the end of the keg washer tube to the swivel nut of the beverage line that runs to a tap faucet (after removing the quick disconnect).

edit: to point to a different hose fitting (1/4" NPT rather than 1/8" NPT)

The biggest contributor to the amount of foam is the flow rate out of the tap. To reduce the foam, reduce the flow rate. You're using 11 PSI with a 5 ft line, which sounds like it would pour really fast.

Option 1: Lower pressure for serving

Bleed pressure from keg and set regulator to 2-5 PSI when serving. Re-pressurize when not serving so the beer doesn't go flat.

Pros: No extra equipment required.

Cons: Incredibly wasteful in terms of CO2. Using this method, I blasted through roughly a third of a 5# tank dispensing just one keg.

Option 2: Adjust beer line length

Make the line length longer according to the style of beer, to compensate for high pressure in the keg. This has to do with fluid dynamics. There is info available on this if you search; I remember seeing posts on this a few weeks ago.

Pros: simple, effective, and inexpensive

Cons: Requires a lot of cutting and re-clamping of beer lines for each different style of beer; no way of doing fine tuning of flow rate for more or less head; requires keeping a bigger inventory of tubing for different styles.

Option 3: Flow control

Put something in your draft system that allows you to adjust the flow rate without attaching/reattaching anything.

Pros: easy to control, less hassle/mess. Just turn a dial and get the flow rate exactly what you want it to be, to perform on-the-spot adjustments for the perfect pour.

Cons: more expensive, although I've seen plastic inline flow controllers like this $2.50 USD one

I have the Perlick 650SS tap on my kegerator and it works like a charm. If you're using a picnic tap or want to use a tap without built-in flow control, and you want something nice, you can get an inline flow control compensator like the one made by CM Becker, or (less expensive but still solid) make one using a stainless steel NPT ball valve and two hose barbs (clamps and plumber's tape not included).

Edit: info/links

I ended up ordering this SS b/v. Seems like it should work with the correct nipples right? Also, how do you compress the actuator on the can tapper npt connection? Rip it out? Thanks for your help

Think I decided on heat set up.

this heater Heater comes triclamp ready with an endcap for 53 bucks

with this ferrule / triclamp kit
2 2" ferrules & 1 2" clamp for $15 delivered. The other 2 ferrules will be saved for a reflux later if this hobby sticks with me.


Thanks for your input, it really helped me decide... Off to study temp controllers. I noticed you linking to the stilldragon controller awhile back. The one you posted... was it the large or medium? The pics both look the same on the ausi site.

I just set up something similar to automate watering of some trees we just planted that are on a drip line hooked up to a spigot. I used one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PVQFTHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fbXdBbJZ06AT0

Plugged into one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAO4B9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-dXdBb8ZM1Q55

Works great and no batteries. Ends up to be about the same price.

Edit: this is plumbed inside my house. Pretty sure neither of these products are rated for outdoor use.

Do you mean 1/4 barrel? I'm making a Boka out of a 1/2 barrel keg (15.5 gal). Here's what I've bought:

5' of 2" copper DVW pipe - Local hardware store
25' of 1/4" copper refrigeration coil - Local hardware store
Stainless steel pot-scrubbers - Walmart

Clamp ferrule:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00835O0J6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1500W heating element: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006IX89Q/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fitting for heating element:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GSL0S4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Triclamp:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ED2EZCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Triclamp gasket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013S1M75I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thermometer:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0198473E4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A24QHZSKPYNZBC

Flux:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V88WJW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lead-free solder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JM8D6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I am going to start by forgoing the Liebig condenser as I don't think its terribly necessary and it can always be added easily just after the compression-fitted valve. The hardest part was finding 5' of copper pipe, everyplace wanted to sell me 10' and the prices were all over the place.

Hope this helps!

Super easy, need just a screwdriver to remove the old one. Its the thing mounted a bit higher in the PVC pipe. Get one that matches the size of the pipe. Here is one as an example.

https://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-30-0181-Plastic-Check-Valve/dp/B0009WD1L4

I use an aeotec plug:
Aeotec Smart Switch 6, remote control smart plug, Z-Wave Plus, small size, side USB charging port, power metering https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VQISOCG/


With a ball valve like this:
BACOENG 3/4" 110V/220V NC Motorized Ball Valve, NO/NC 2/3 Way BRASS/SS 1/2"-1" Available https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PVQFTHW/

Couple of things come to mind, this is one of them: https://redd.it/6p3f85

If you truly want just a valve this should work for you: https://smile.amazon.com/Electric-Solenoid-110-VAC-Normally-Closed/dp/B007N0J98E/

You'll need a few fittings to make it work with the hose, but that should be pretty minor.

What if you did this:

Fermenting keg > pressure relief valve (set to say 22psi for spunding purposes at room temperature) > oversized tubing that could fit over the pressure relief valve > check valve > co2 keg > spunding valve (like 120-130psi).

Then you could use the co2 keg as a co2 tank.

Pressure relief valve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GDY3CU/ref=as_at/?imprToken=9h1Z-UNJjbEBc2vuAiG75A&slotNum=0&ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B007GDY3CU&linkCode=w61&tag=hombrefin-20&linkId=CNQ6I4IKSFEAO43T

I've shared this here before and it's worth mentioning here too.

I take lawn/garden pressure sprayer and replace the end with a sink sprayer. You'll also need a fitting to connect them which is likely this but you can't know for sure until you have the garden sprayer in hand. This gives me very simple, one handed control over a relatively low flow water sprayer that's designed for rinsing soap off of things.

It's simple, cheap, it doesn't take any electricity and works really well. I can take a full shower including shampoo and conditioning long hair with less than a gallon of water.

I just finished up a fruit beer a couple weeks ago. To filter out the particles I used an aquarium micron bag and clamped it onto the end of the hose with one of these. All in all, it worked out pretty well.

If you do make a spunding valve I recommend this pressure relief valve. I bought a pre-built spunding valve off of homebrewing.org and the pressure relief valve it came with sucked. I saw this on brulosophy I believe and swapped it out. My current fermentation is the first I've used the new one, but so far it is MUCH better.

This seems like a good idea: https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466286871&sr=8-1&keywords=water+tank+float+valve

I have/had the maker select. I fought it about ever other print I did on it until it finally became more expensive to troubleshoot than buy a new printer. Thats when I got the ender 3. I honestly think the ender 3 prints way better than the maker select ever did for me. Dont get me wrong the maker select was a good printer when it printed but I think the ender 3 outperforms it.

Yes the whole myth around resin being so expensive I think stems from a couple years ago when it was waaayyy more expensive and the only players in the game were selling $3000 printers. It has come way down and just realize every single time someone say that it is 10x more than FDM they are either misinformed, lying, or an idiot lol. I think the fact that you have to but it $60-$150 at a time instead of $17 (what a cheap roll of filament costs) really confuses some people. I have done the calculations though since I print for commissions and my resin volume per mini is usually between 4ml to 7ml. Resin can be bought all day for $0.08 per ml. I love it when people try to argue with me on it though :)

[Here are the connectors I bought](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQYJ9T6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) you probably could find a smaller pack but this is the size you need. The connecter on the hotend side is a different size, but I didnt have any problems with that one so I only replaced the one on the extruder.

What you want is a Bulkhead Fitting. It makes a hole on a flat surface and allows you to attach PVC parts to it. I would say you add this right under the lip of the top pond and put ~1' length of PVC pipe on it. The water will fill to the pipe then drain out into the pond below. The only real consideration is the strength of the plastic and the length of the pipe. You wouldn't want to crack the pond.

Can’t help you with programming but you could eliminate the pump and use gravity feed and a valve like this
https://www.amazon.com/DIGITEN-Solenoid-Connect-normally-Closed/dp/B016MP1HX0/ref=pd_aw_fbt_328_img_3/140-4689437-7402416?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B016MP1HX0&pd_rd_r=7e732eb6-69bd-4334-8901-5ebb49bc7e82&pd_rd_w=UV8Al&pd_rd_wg=BJTUS&pf_rd_p=0bda97b1-9615-4960-b748-b906a3521083&pf_rd_r=0FX3BC956PNFJ3R82N43&psc=1&refRID=0FX3BC956PNFJ3R82N43

You're may be paying many times more sourcing "locally" if you can't wait until chinese new year is over next month. On amazon anything that is 'prime' should be warehoused stateside


Search for water solenoid example
Compatible diameter tube for above example
and any relay board example.

Moisture sensors are literality just wires shoved into the soil. But beware of electrolyses degrading the metal, you can used galvanized nails or even pencil lead (carbon rods) instead

You shouldn't need a pump unless using a reservoir, but just in case 12V water pump example--note this has a bigger diameter hose connector you may be able to just shove a 1/4" inside and glue around for seal but look around at the different search results for matching hose diameters all around or possible legit adaptors


And don't forget the 12V power adaptor capable of powerint all that. ~2+A should be fine example

https://www.orbitonline.com/site_files/manuals/200%20Series%20valves%20chart.pdf

The minimum pressure for this valve is 15 psi. I am running my drip irrigation out of my rain barrel, with a pond pump. It doesn't make enough pressure to actuate the pilot in this valve.

I have tried the following valves, that only require 3 psi and they work. I wish there was better option that didn't require a minimum presure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016MP1HX0

This is a pretty common item. You will have an easier time finding an adjustable pressure relief valve than a set 3 psi, but even that isn't too uncommon.

I found this one on Amazon

Ok dude I got you bro...I want you to check 2 thinks for me. Check to make sure that the plastic duck work from the mass air flow sensor to the throttle body is all attached properly and secured. Play close attention to where it is hooked up to the throttle body with that 8 mm hex on the gear clamp on the driver side that you have to fish through with an extension to tighten. if that all looks good, I want you to take a look on the passenger side front of the valve cover and you will see a small plastic hose that goes forward into the plastic ductwork. Where that hose attaches to the plastic duct the nipple breaks off and then you get a vacuum leak. I would be very surprised if that was not your problem. If that plastic nipple has broken off, go to the hardware store and get a threaded 1/2 inch Barb that you can put a half inch hose onto, heat it up, and twisted into where the plastic piece broke on and then install the hose. like this, but 1/2"

Sure, that should work. Just make sure that you clamp down all your hoses and double- and triple-check for leaks. Keep some extra hose clamps on hand. They should be super tight, but not so tight that they cut through the tubing.

You could use a pretty standard mechanical float valve to refill water reservoirs. Something along these lines

I posted this the other day but a Reddit user suggested I paint it black to have it absorb more heat so I figured I'd post up the finished product. If anyone is interested here's the materials I used, just cut the rubber hose attached to a new clean insecticide sprayer, attach adapter, put on your hose and boom, camp shower with fairly decent water pressure.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002SAO7XQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001GZZFXA/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0039EEN0M/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Electric-Solenoid-110-VAC-Normally-Closed/dp/B007N0J98E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499072073&sr=8-1&keywords=water+solenoid+110v

https://www.amazon.com/Century-Plug-Mechanical-Timer-Grounded/dp/B00MVFF59S/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1499072056&sr=8-6&keywords=timer

+some hoses / tubes / enclosure for your electronics and a few hours of your time.

you should be able to construct a nice system for 50-100 dollar

One thing I would say that might help is to move the check valves lower. They should be very close to the pump itself. Yours are so high that a lot of the water that gets pumped up comes right back into the sump. So they work more and the water level stays higher.

Make sure they are working when you move them. If not or suspect get a Zoeller 30-0181
http://smile.amazon.com/Zoeller-30-0181-Plastic-Check-Valve/dp/B0009WD1L4

Then why aren't you just using a bulkhead fitting? Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lifegard-Aquatics-Standard-Threaded-Bulkhead/dp/B0002Z7U1K/ref=lp_700755011_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1565222743&sr=1-6

with a threaded plug should be reasonably waterproof.

I suggest this Gates Fuel Line Hose instead. It's top quality reinforced hose. I also suggest these hose clamps. That petcock seems OK. It should be replaced because it will likely go out while you own it, and this might be why the scooter stopped running suddenly.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B007N0J98E?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

You can use a valve like that and control with a wireless relay such as a sonoff basic or a Z-wave switch.

What is you plan for a mash tun? I went with a 10g Home Depot cooler and something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Weldless-Stainless-Bulkhead-Nipple/dp/B00JHMRH2Q

This is the cooler: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-40-qt-Orange-Water-Cooler-FG1610HDORAN/202260809

You’ll also need a screen or false bottom. I think the screen is a ver economical option https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Bazooka-Screen-Fitting/dp/B003ISY2DC

This is basically what I'm referring to.

You know, like this.

Something like this:
https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71eIBr+ziPL._SL256_.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I

I ferment in 10 gallon cornies and I just built myself a spunding valve to use as a test. Wasn't that hard the main bit is the valve itself, which I got off Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007GDY3CU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FYI58S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BQUTBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And then some fiddly bits to go from the Tee to the QD for the keg.

OP, I found out what you were looking for is called a spunding valve. It's essentially used to brew beer under a fixed pressure. I found this on amazon , how you'd fix that to a lid is beyond me tho.

​

Edit : Also to note: mason jars cannot hold pressure anyhow, you'd have to bottle your kombucha first and fix on the valve to the bottle cap/cork and set it fro like 30-40 psi beyond which the bottle will explode anyway.

Plumber here, buy this pump and this check valve . For your backup,it is a bit pricey but if you are on city water (well water wont work in the event of a power outage) I would recomend this pump It is powered by a stream of water so you don't have to worry about battery maintenance.

What kind of pump is it? I had a 5 year old big box store tether pump that would wake the whole house. Upgraded to a Zoeller m53 which cost me $125 on Amazon and is whisper quite. Don't forget to add in a check valve, which it doesn't look like yours has.

These are what I bought:
http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-Mighty-mate-Submersible-Sump-Pump/dp/B000H5PYR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452683726&sr=8-1&keywords=zoeller

http://www.amazon.com/Zoeller-30-0181-Check-Valve-Inch/dp/B0009WD1L4/ref=pd_sim_60_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41tvTOSrD7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=1DQ4X69H0CMEEQG9T9PN

They do make automatic top offs for aquariums which could be modded for this. it is meant however to control a pump from a reservoir to fill up the aquarium instead of from the tap. you could buy [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Electric-Solenoid-110-VAC-Normally-diesel/dp/B007N0J98E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373403144&sr=8-1&keywords=water+solenoid+valve+110) and use it with a JBJ ato(one I use for my reef tank.) Or buy this if you want the diy way and hook it up accordingly. There are already cheap options so I personally would choose another project and use whats already available on the market for your hydroponic system

If anyone is interested... I did experiment with one and it worked rather well for the test.

This is the valve I used

This might be the ticket, because with that type of tubing, I think you want quick connects. I'm not sure about the pressure rating, or if it would be easy to connect to an Arduino.

I think solenoid valve is indeed the way to go.

You could hook up something like this Amazon link to a relay and a 12v power supply. I guess that particular one gets hot if you power the solenoid continuously for hours at a time, so it might not be the best for you project.

https://www.amazon.com/Eowpower-Pneumatic-Straight-Fitting-Connector/dp/B01MQYJ9T6/

I believe you need a PC4-M6 PTFE tube connector.

Never heard of it. But here's the parts to do that.
Carbonation cap with fittings.
Mini CO2 regulator with adapter
Co2 Tank
Tubing
Hose clamps.

> stainless steel 316 Tee

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LSSLE0/ref=biss_dp_t_asn -----

>stainless steel 316 nipple 1/4 ----------
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y18C56/ref=pd_luc_rh_bxgy_01_02_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ----

>ball vales
http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Mini-Ball-Valve/dp/B006VE3BF0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QATKNJ8JPYS71CX5ZPG

>can tap
http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417119173&sr=8-2&keywords=can+tapper

Would this work? It's rated to 30psi and just needs to be capped on the male end.

http://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Valve-10-400-Series-Pressure/dp/B008835NQC/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1412969259&sr=8-12&keywords=pressure+valve

This one is adjustable, but needs to be adapted to 3/4".

http://www.amazon.com/Control-Devices-Series-Pressure-Adjustable/dp/B007GDY3CU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1412969259&sr=8-1&keywords=pressure+valve

You'll need the full power of an electricl outlet to do this. At least 1500 watts or 10-12amps. So you don't have power?

You can use a 12v pump and a solar panel. Look at Harbor Freight 12v pump and look for Harbor Freight 60w solar panel.
If you don't have power, you'll need to pump water up and use gravity feed to get pressure. A rain barrel about 30ft higher then where you want water should give you enough water pressure. This a float valve helps: https://www.amazon.com/Kerick-Valve-MA052-Float-Adjustable/dp/B0077RAP1I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1465850762&sr=8-1&keywords=float+valve

When you replace it you really need to add one of these

here

So what I would do is, remove that union, connect the check valve and PVC down to the pump (I'd drop in one in the sump). You'll need a threaded adapter on the pvc to the pump and any 45 or elbow as needed.

Relay Timer: https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Digital-Switch-110-220V-IDT-E2RH/dp/B008KV65MS

Pressure Switch: https://www.coleparmer.com/i/dwyer-cxa-s3-water-pump-pressure-switch-nc-range-35-150-psig-2-4-10-3-bar/6806346

Pump: https://www.kleen-ritecorp.com/p-58407-aquatec-58-flc-220-pump-with-220-psi-pressure-swich-internal-bypass-12-motor-leads-115-vac.aspx

Solenoid valve: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007N0J98E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1/4" push in compression fittings.

I don't like the dash button idea. I do actually have those setup, but the delays involved would add uncertainty about time.

I found this solenoid, so that could work maybe, but Id have to hard a timer somehow. DIGITEN DC 12V 1/4" Inlet Feed Water Solenoid Valve Quick Connect N/C normall... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B016MP1HX0/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_x_aqIczbQ7W75MF via @amazon

Homebrew Materials:

Vacuum Pump Oil

Vacuum Tubing

1/4" Barb x 1/4" NPT Male Hose Fitting

1/4" Male x 1/4" Female NPT Extension Hose

Vacuum Pump

Filters

Spatulas

Magnetic Stir Bar

Digital Hotplate with Magnetic Stirrer

Nitrile Gloves (Better than Latex)

Empty Capsules (Buy Separated unless you hate your life)

Capsule Machine (If you value your sanity, buy more than a 100... I hated my life doing this)

Mohr Pipets

Pipette 10ml

Mortar and Pestle (If you're doing orals, get this... Otherwise, you're playing Russian Roulette with your doses and liver)

Funnel (For pouring into small places)

Alconox (For clean your shit)

Temperature Gun (How hot is my shit?)

Graduated Cylinder (If you measure with beakers, you're a fucking idiot... And you should consider Volumetric Flasks)

Beaker Set

1 Liter Beaker (Because brewing en'masse is better)

Scale (I have a 2kg one, too)

Calibration Weight Set

Calibration Weight 100g (Because you need two for the scale linked)

Vacuum Regulator (Unless you want to filter 9001 times due to broken shit)

Oil (Any USP grade, filtered or unfitlered)

BB

BA

Butyl Stoppers

Flip Top Seals

Crimper

Vials (Unsealed)

Autoclave (Cheaper than an oven, why are you using an oven?!)

Weight Boats (Buy a million of these. They're cheap and useful)

Did I miss something? Probably. Yes.

I use this.

I had to dial it in a bit but using a decent gauge it's not too difficult. When I have it turned to 60PSI it'll hold 20 perfectly, I have a bunch of stuff noted at home from my ~5mins of testing it took to dial it in.

It has held (and allowed to build) pressure on my Flanders Red for a couple months now awesomely.

No need to go insane on pricepoint for something like this, but if you want the kind of precision you got without having to trial and error shit, then go nuts.