Reddit mentions: The best tube fittings

I had to break this into another comment due to per comment character limits.

The following previously belonged to the above comment, but was moved here due to the above mentioned limts.

> Something you can do now: Build a filament drybox. Seriously, some filaments such as certain Nylons can go bad in just a few hours, depending on ambient humidity levels. All filaments are susceptible to moisture absorption, and ideally should be kept in something like a Spannerhands holder, even while printing, but at worst you should store them in a big plastic tub with silica gel beads to keep them dry.

> If I had to give one last tip, don't stock up on too much filament yet! Seriously! I thought I would be printing mostly in PLA but now that I've had a few weeks to work with it, I've learned I prefer PETG more, and now I have so much extra PLA! I'm sure I'll find something to do with it, but for my final tip I would add "And get a good variety!". Services like MakerBox (referral) let you try a bunch of different filaments on the cheap. It's not a ton of each filament (about 50g), but I love the variety of materials and colors.

Original second level comment begins:

Final Tips: Bonus Round!

1. Extruder Indicators are pretty cool (and USEFUL). You can get the magnets super cheap (or amazon).
   
2. Learn how to do An Atomic Pull (AKA Cold Pull), and learn it well. Do this every time you switch filaments (See "Doing it the lazy way" at the bottom of the page). You'll help remove built up deposits each time, which will help ensure a long, jam free life for you nozzle. This also skips the bleeding necessary when switching filaments (on your next "Load" you'll get a few mm of old filament and then pretty much pure new filament after that, instead of the 100mm or so of transition). You can skip doing a proper Cold Pull if you're using a brand new printer anyway. Just do a lazy pull each time you switch filaments, and then a proper Cold Pull maybe every 100 print hours, or after using extremely difficult (wet or super exotic) filaments to help remove any residue that may cause future jams or other issues. This does require undoing and redoing the idler tension again, but once you've done it a few times you can do the whole pull and filament swap in under a minute (minus hotend heatup/cooldown time). White Nylon is great for proper Cold Pulls, partially because you can crank the temp up very high (which ensures any residual filament in the hot end should also melt), White PLA would be okay for example, but may not properly pull PETG or ABS from the nozzle. White is great thanks to the color, of course, which allows you to see any residue easier; However, any color may be used. If you only ever use PLA, then PLA would be just fine for a Cold Pull. Seriously though, start by doing Cold Pulls from Day 1 and you'll easily cut out 50% of your future issues.
   
3. The small metric fasteners used in the printer are cheap. They are used in a lot of designs found online, so you should stock up (alternate source). The primary fasteners used are M3 Socket Head Cap 0.5 pitch, mostly full thread. You can also get the nuts very cheap. Square, Nyloc, and Hex. I can get the exact lengths used in the Mk3 if anyone needs them, though I'm not sure the exact grade used, it only really effects corrosion resistance.
   
4. You can also Calibrate the Extruder steps/mm and extrusion multiplier. Many people will tell you only the later is necessary but I prefer to do both anyway. Theoretically it does make a difference, but practically you can just compensate for steps/mm with the extrusion multiplier, and for all intents and purposes the result is the same, so "many people" are totally right.
   
5. You can also Calibrate the PID. You probably won't have to do this for PLA out of the box, but may find you have some temperature swings with PETG or ABS temperatures. The Official Help Article also discusses this method and how to calibrate using the LCD if you prefer. I like to keep my Mk3 settings vanilla (I've never used an M500 directly, and avoid them when I can), so I like to get my PID values manually and set them in my start GCode instead, which also allows me to setup my slicer so each switching filaments automatically switches PID profiles. The bed can be calibrated as well, but again you probably won't need to do this unless you're experiencing temperature swings more than -/+ 5°. One or two degree dips/spikes is perfectly normal (though theoretically can be tuned out, requires proper enclosure for stable ambient temps, etc).
   
   There are tons of other accessories you can get ahead of time. None of these are necessary, but are small things you might end up using (or wanting to try :P), and should help get you started getting a wishlist together. Besides the ones mentioned in this comment (and the one that precedes it) already:
   
   

• Wire Snips beat the included pliers hands down. For $4 how are you not going to pick these up right now? The cutting edge on a pair of pliers sucks and it doesn't help that it's ****ing halfway down the length of the tool. I tried to get away with just using the included tools and simply gave up trying to use the included pliers to cut zip ties. If you have Prime, get a pair of these now. Get a pair even if you don't - they're worth the shipping cost too. Thank me later.
  
• 608 bearings (for prints such as TUSH),
  
• Loctite 222 (helps prevent screws from vibrating free, not necessary thanks to Nylocs used in Mk3),
  
• A humidity sensor (for filament dry box and checking ambient),
  
• An accurate scale (for calculating remaining filament),
  
• A small fan (enhanced print cooling when needed (not very necessary except for ultra extreme bridges), enhanced circulation in filament dry box),
  
• Small bags (for silica beads),
  
• PTFE tube and matching Bowden Couplers (for something like Spannerhands),
  
• Lubit-8 (for the LMU88 bearings),
  
• SuperLube (Silicone Grease w/ PTFE for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Canola Oil (for lubricating/cleaning filament and seasoning the nozzle/hotend (not necessary with modern hotends)),
  
• Small Brass Brush (also for Bondtech Extruder gear maintenance),
  
• Nozzle Reams (for the extremely rare jam, because you're doing your Atomic Pulls, right?),
  
• Extra Nozzles (no need for the kit, just an example. Hardened nozzles (black) are a good idea for composites, last longer than Brass, regardless of filament used. Prusa Mk3 comes with 0.4mm nozzle preinstalled, but you can easily swap the nozzle),
  
• E3D Hotend Sock (helps lock in heat for (theoretically?) lower current usage and more stable temperatures, also helps keep plastic off the heat block in case of print failure),
  
• Magigoo (or other adhesion aids) (for certain exotic filaments, otherwise not necessary with Mk3),
  
• Tempered Glass or Borosilicate printbeds (for certain exotic filaments),
  
• And of course, Isopropyl Alcohol (70% or better, preferably 91% or better) and Acetone, just to name a few...
  
  Edit: Upon rereading my comment I realized I have a problem.. I own every product I just listed..
  
  ^^Except ^^for ^^the ^^nozzles ^^kit ^^so ^^it's ^^not ^^that ^^big ^^of ^^a ^^problem, ^^right?... ^^Right?!

If you have only a very small number of motorized blinds (I'd say four or less), then Hunter Douglas provides good options to wire them up. You can either install battery packs that need to be serviced every few months, or you can plug in a small power supply. Each of the power supplies can drive up to two blinds. But the extension wires that come with it cannot be longer than about 15ft, and they are not rated for in-wall installation. So, you'll have to deal with them probably being visible.

If you have lots of blinds, the wires look ugly, and you really don't want to take up a gazillion outlets. We have dual stacked blinds (mesh & black-out) in a few places. There clearly aren't enough power outlets to handle that.

Hunter Douglas for better or for worse runs their blinds on 18V -- and their tech support claims that the blinds are pretty sensitive to voltage fluctuations. This has a couple of awkward consequences. 18V power supplies are really unusual. Laptop power supplies would be perfect, but they are all 19V, which according to Hunter Douglas is not acceptable. And other common voltages are 12V or 15V, which are both noticeably too little.

Furthermore, the blinds have relatively high peak currents. Hunter Douglas told me to roughly assume that each blind can require up to about 10W. Took me forever to find a place that sells an 18V/180W power supply, as Hunter Douglas doesn't offer any solution themselves.

Of course, that's the raw circuit board only. You still need an enclosure. I went with a 12V enclosure and modded it. The enclosure is a great size, and you can even reuse the metal shield for the power supply, if you are careful. It also conveniently already comes with all the fuses that you'll need anyway. So, that saves you quite some work. But you do need some tinkering experience to swap out the circuit boards. You probably also need to order a couple of Molex connectors and you'll need to do some crimping and some soldering.

The next problem that you'll run into is that the enclosure needs a cooling fan, but as far as I can tell it is impossible to find 18V fans. I ended up using an ATTiny85 and a MOSFET to PWM the 18V so that I could safely drive the existing fan (make sure to configure the micro-controller for FastPWM, or you'll have to deal with an ugly humming noise!). And while at it, I also added a temperature sensor, so the fan only turns on, when needed. You also need a small DC-DC converter to power the microcontroller. And if you don't already have a way to program Atmel chips, you'll need to buy a programmer. EBay has lots of cheap options, too. All of this definitely takes some amount of tinkering skills that not everybody will have, though.

Overall, building a proper power supply and distribution box cost me just over $200 in parts. Not too bad. But the amount of time spent getting it to work was ridiculous. Especially if you add up all the time researching which parts I needed to buy in the first place. I really don't understand why Hunter Douglas couldn't sell ready-made power supplies for installing multiple PowerView blinds. Even if they charged $500 for the ready-made box, that wouldn't be entirely unreasonable -- and that would be a huge mark up and make them quite some profits. In bulk, each supply should cost less than $100 to manufacture.

The next problem is finding appropriate cables. At those low voltages, currents are going to be high, and if you have anything more than trivially short runs, you'll encounter significant voltage drops. Since Hunter Douglas said that sticking as close as possible to 18V is crucial, you'll inevitably have to install beefier wires. Hunter Douglas recommends 14AWG for powering up to two blinds, or 16AWG when powering a single blind. I had good luck with buying Monoprice in-wall speaker cable for this purpose. Get the four-conductor version to minimize the number of cables that you need to string.

Ideally, you want to avoid splicing the cables. And in many cases, if you plan carefully, you'll be able to do that just fine. But sometimes, splices are simply unavoidable (for instance, when joining 16AWG cables to an 14AWG cable). I find WAGO connectors work really well for this purpose; unlike wirenuts, they can be used both with and without ferrules. And they work well for stranded wires, where wirenuts sometimes fail.

The blinds have barrel connectors, and Hunter Douglas suggests buying plugs with screw connectors. That is a good suggestion in principle, but I find it is impossible to securely fasten the speaker cables in the screw connectors, unless you use ferrules. And that means, you'll also need to buy a crimping tool. And for good measure, you should probably shrink wrap the entire contraption afterwards. High currents means you want secure connections.

Ideally, you should run all the cables inside the walls. But that's not always possible. If you can't, then you'll need to staple them instead. Make sure to use the right staples. I asked my electrician to help in order to meet my schedule; in hindsight, that didn't work out so well. He sent me his apprentice, who promptly proceeded to run each and every staple straight through the cable. Ouch. We had to redo all the wiring.

Now, my next project is thinking of a solution to hide the Hunter Douglas remote inside of a Decora wall switch. The remote is OK, but it looks a little cheesy when wall-mounted. As I said before, PowerView blinds are fine in principle and they are probably better than most competing products, but they do feel a little unfinished at this time. When they do work though, they are really convenient.

OK, so you have the older hobby type.It looks like the compression flange that holds the pipe in place is melted. The brass part is probably untouched, but I'd remove clean and reseat anyway. You'll need a new conmpression flange for the air assist pipe. I'd also order a whole new air supply line at the same time. I'd contact FSL via phone and order a new one. It may be the sort of thing that a hardware or even hobby store might have but I'd just go via FSL. While you're waiting, give that laser a good top to bottom clean. I mean everything. You can use windex and a clean rag for most of the inside, then use qtips and 70% isoproply on the mirrors and lenses. Don't use any weird cleaners like CLR etc. If something's really baked on, then use a bit of goo gone, but don't get it on the bearings - apply it directly to the rag not the laser. Check all the tube connecttions and try to clean everything. Don't worry about the barings, they're sealed so if there's shot or giving play (and it's not a case of tightening the wheels - see the online videos from FSL) then it better to replace them that try to lube them. Also chack that everything is squared an accurate such as the gantries and rails (you can measure between the top and bottom, left and right extremes). You may want to also buy new water hoses - my FSL 5th Gen came with silicone ones with split after a few years, so I replaced with clear PVC tubing (also better as you can see the water/bubbles in action so you know it's working).
Then when all the parts are replaced, do a full mirror and lens calibration (again see the vids from FSL).
Good luck and don't be afraid to post here if you need any help or tips -several of us, including the co-mod of the sub have FSL's.
EDIT: here's the sort fo thing you're looking for but again, get it from FSL as I have no idea about the thread size needed. Also, a lot of people suggest using pipe thread liquid instead of teflon tape when screwing the replacement in, as it apparently gives a much better seal.

https://www.amazon.com/MettleAir-MTC-Connect-Straight-Fitting/dp/B00S511S9I/ref=pd_sim_328_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00S511S9I&pd_rd_r=9T5ZKAP950Z9FMFWVD0J&pd_rd_w=CHJAz&pd_rd_wg=7tynf&psc=1&refRID=9T5ZKAP950Z9FMFWVD0J

951 is substantially better than the 888D. I personally used an 888D for close to a year and recently upgraded to an FM-202. It's similar to the 951.

So, the 888D definitely is not a bad station. It's actually pretty good. For general purpose soldering (wires, large electronics like perfboards, protoboards, etc) it works wonderfully. It uses the standard thread-lock tips, and my personal favorite tip for the 888D was the T18-BR02. It's a bent conical tip, and being bent like that turns it into a very useful multipurpose tip. I used it exclusively for just about all the work I did. This included working on SMD components on smartphone motherboards under a microscope.

HOWEVER, as time went on and I read more and more about the 951 I just wished I got one of those. The 951 contains very many features that the 888D lacks. I'll break those down for you now.

Firstly, the 951 has a built-in auto-sleep. When you put the iron back in the stand, the unit automatically puts the tip to sleep until you take it off the stand again. This dramatically improves tip life. If you find yourself leaving your current iron on for minutes at a time before you actually start using it, then this sleep function will save you a lot of tip replacements. This sleep function is not a replacement for turning the station off. You should always turn it off when you are done, but the sleep will preserve tip life for those few minutes between soldering where you don't want to turn the station off.

Secondly, the 951 uses a very different tip system compared to what you might be familiar with. Most cheaper stations and irons use the standard thread-lock tips. The ones that screw down onto the heating element in the iron. The 951 uses a cartridge-based system. The tips you buy are a lot more expensive (around $20 to $30), but the tips themselves contain the heating element. Since the tips themselves actually have the heating element in them, you never have to worry about buying a new heating element for your soldering station. Just get a new tip if you notice something is off with how it's heating.

This cartridge system is leaps and bounds better than the thread-lock tips. You can very quickly and easily swap tips while the iron is hot with no danger to harming yourself. You'll need to get some Hakko tip sleeves and a tip holder to do this. The sleeves themselves slip over the tips, and lock at a certain depth. The sleeve functions as the locking mechanism that secures the tip into the handpiece. When you swap tips you never have to touch any hot metal. You just clip the sleeve out of the handpiece and stick it into the tip holder, then grab another tip and slide it into the handpiece and lock it. If you want a more accurate description of this system in action let me know, I can record a video. The 202 is different from the 951 but it uses the same handpiece and tip system.

Honestly, you can probably skip this step of the additional sleeves and tip holder if you don't find much of a use currently for switching tips. The J-tip (like the T18-BR02) is my favorite all-around tip because it's very versatile in what it can do. The 951 has a similar tip, the T15-J02. They also have the JL02 and JS02, both are similar to the J02 and T18-BR02 in shape but have different size profiles.

The 951 also has a very unique heating system. The tips themselves contain a feedback sensor that is able to very reliably detect when you are touching the tip to a larger thermal mass (like a ground plane). When tip temperature drops from doing this, the station is able to push out more power to maintain the tip temperature. It has a very state-of-the-art regulation system for keeping tip temperature consistent. The 951 is basically your entry-level "professional" soldering station.

The 951 also allows you to use a micropencil with it. It's basically a soldering iron handpiece that allows you to use very, very fine tips with it that are much smaller than standard tips. These are useful for working with SMD components under a microscope. The 888D does not have support for this.

If you want to futureproof yourself and get a really really nice station, I'd go for the 951. The 888D is not bad, not in the slightest. The 888D is geared more towards hobbyists at this point, but you really can't beat having a professional station like the 951.

I actually didn't tally up the cost as that wasn't really of a concern to me, but I'll try my best to provide links to the things I bought for this. Feel free to add it up for me!

• Lighting
  
  • T-5 Grow light (came with 6500K bulbs)
    
  • 2700K bulbs
    
  • Grow light hangers
    
• Grow medium
  
  • Net Cups
    
  • Black Buckets
    
  • Black lids
    
• Nutrients
  
  • General Hydroponics Flora Series
    
  • General Hydroponics pH control kit
    
  • pH/EC/Temp Meters
    
• Grow tent
  
• Air ventilation
  
  • The only thing I ended up using from this kit was the cheapest part, the ventilation duct...
    
  • The fan from this kit is way too powerful for my setup because my humidifier couldn't keep up
    
  • I didn't use the carbon filter because I'm not growing weed.
    
• Water Distiller
  
• Humidifier
  
  • The cheaper the humidifier, the better. I first bought (and destroyed) one that had some sort of digital switch, so it would always be in the off state when you first supply power to it, meaning you can't turn it on/off with just a relay.
    
• Plumbing
  
  • Aquatec 8852 booster pump
    
  • 2 Gallon accumulator tank
    
  • Pressure relief valve
    
  • Tubing
    
  • Inline Pre-filter (Sorry they must have taken the product down...)
    
  • Misting nozzle T's
    
  • Tube ball valves
    
  • Analog pressure gauge
    
  • Misting Nozzles
    
    • Note that these nozzles are meant for WAY higher pressure systems (~1000psi) and I actually had to take out the spring for them to operate correctly, but they never clogged up, are easy to clean, and worked perfectly for me!
      
• Electronics
  
  • Raspberry Pi 3 kit
    
  • Humidity sensor
    
  • Pressure sensor
    
  • Water solenoid valve
    
  • 5V 4-channel relay module
    
  • Analog-to-digital converter
    
  • 24V to 12V converter
    
  • 24V Power supply
    
  • Resistor kit
    
  • Semiconductor kit
    
  • Circuit boards
    
  • Standoffs
    
• Wiring
  
  • 22 gauge stranded wire
    
  • 22 gauge solid wire
    
  • Power supply cord
    
• Connectors
  
  • Electronic Connectors
    
    • JST-XHP Connectors
      
    • JST-SM Connectors
      
    • Dupont Connectors
      
  • Plumbing Connectors
    
    • Bulkhead connectors
      
    • Quick-connect kit
      
    • NPT to quick-connect connector
      
      I also bought various tools, like crimpers, Dremel kit, drill, etc, but I don't consider those to be project-specific as I'll have them for the foreseeable future. Let me know if there's anything you see that you think I missed!
      

Long and then short reply lol, I’ll get back at you further when I’m less busy, but here is what I’m talking about for that screen. I def had better luck when I switched from trim/popcorn nugs to “premo” nugs too so hopefully that helps your situation.

ARTESIAN SYSTEMS 20 Micron... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QM2VVYV?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Also, if you don’t have one this may help with heating your vac chamber long term, I love mine:

BACOENG Digital Heating Pad Series (7.5", Fixed) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MCGSF3J/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_t0XyDbXQ08F51

Hey friend. you're on the right track with your idea to drill a hole and plumb it to a larger tank. Be careful when you choose the spot to drill. You don't want to drill in to a very round side, as that will be harder to make watertight. i would recommend trying to find a nice flat spot, just below the max fill of that unit's tank, and then drilling a hole for a bulkhead fitting(so that its watertight) and then just attach a hose to the drain end of the fitting and you can just set the other end of the hose in to a 5 gallon bucket below the unit or something.


a 1/2 bulkhead fitting is less than 5$ on amazon(also might not hurt to look around for a smaller sized one of these, as a 1 1/2" hole may be kind of big for this small tank) i only looked around for a second.
https://www.amazon.com/Lifegard-Aquatics-Standard-Threaded-Bulkhead/dp/B0002Z7U1K/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=bulkhead+drain+with+gasket&qid=1565284477&s=gateway&sr=8-15


If you go with this route, i would get a step bit (drill bit for drilling a precise hole by gradually widening it)
https://www.amazon.com/Knoweasy-Sizes-Titanium-Drill-Drilling/dp/B07NKXLTCB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=step+bit&qid=1565284634&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMEU0WExMM0Y1NUNZJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDQzOTM5RjNOQkZRRFgzUVFXJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTAwODExNDgyUEtUR1lBS1NJNzM4JndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==


then you would just need a female 1/2 thread to 1/4" barbed fitting and some 1/4 tubing to run to the bucket. I have similar setups to this for top-off tanks in my hydro systems. If you need any help figuring it out and sourcing parts, just shoot me a message!


Best of luck!!

To answer your question, yes you probably could, maybe even without losing an eye. Best case scenario you will have a ton of problems with leaks and failed fittings.

Better answer, the same fittings are available for less then $5 on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/SMC-Miniature-Fitting-Extended-M5x0-8/dp/B0065S37OM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496574649&sr=8-1&keywords=m5+extension+fitting

Even better answer, Parker should have an equivalent fitting for much less then SMC will charge. I'm not going to look through their catalog because it sucks but if you want to save a couple bucks a fitting they can probably help you out, if not look at aliexpress or similar to find a Chinese equivalent.

Best answer, why do you even need an extension fitting? A push to connect fitting will get you the same height and they are well worth the extra price for ease of assembly and maintenance. If you're looking to buy a lot of fittings I'm guessing there's a manifold in there somewhere and manifolds are a pain in the ass without push to connect fittings.

you can build the exact same thing diy for about $70. and im sure you can source cheaper parts. you get 2 brass hose barbs with the pump below as well.

• 2gpm Solar pump - $30
  
• Ball lock disconnects - $12
  
• SS T FPT fitting - $5
  
• 1/2" NPT diffustion stone - $15
  
• 1/" npt hose barbs $7
  
• vinyl tubing and clamps $4
  
  That said, being able to keg and serve in the same day with perfect carbonation is pretty awesome.

The tip is sold at home depot and lowes, probably Menards too, haven't checked their welding stuff before.

To connect it you'll want something like this along with some PTFE tubing of corresponding size. Screw the fitting into the gun, dismantle where the whip enters the box, cut the cable ties on both ends of the bundle, feed the PTFE tubing from one end to the other. Push the tubing into the connector on the gut. For the other end figure out a bulkhead to go from PTFE to a hose barb.

PTFE and Push-To-Connects may not be the correct choice either, you may be better off with a Vinyl tubing and a barb or compression fitting. I haven't done the conversion yet, so I don't know.

But if you're selling stuff to a customer, I'd recommend getting at least a good import machine like the new Alpha AHP MIG or the Everlast Power I-MIG series of welders.

As far as the tank goes, make sure it isn't a rental before you celebrate too hard, and make sure it's C25 or argon before hooking it up to anything.

The line is leaking due to a puncture on the line so water is spraying out little by little. I currently have it taped up as a temp solution. The water line is connected from the back of the fridge (I’m guessing ice maker or water filter) to the sink. I removed the water filter and stopped the ice maker but seems like the water keeps running.

I bought this MALIDA 1/4 inch OD Tube push fit straight quick connect for water purifiers (10 pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010BY29A8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_p6gUDbFY7YBGK

Any tips would be greatly appreciated!

I just bought these and they're threaded on both sides so that what you linked to (or these which I also bought) should fit. I put them on some 5gal buckets and the seal is working great. Pretty happy with the setup so far :)

The only piece I had to fabricate is the little black cube in the top. I made that from a piece of 1/2" acrylic. I drilled a 90 degree hole into the top and side of it. Then used epoxy to attach it to the fan with the wires going through it. I had to snip the wire adapter off to do this. The holes I drilled into the cube were the exact same diameter of the male piece of the quick connect barb. This kept it snug but also allowed it to rotate in the hole.

Next, I then fished the wires through the quick connect fittings and through the quick connect bulkhead. After the wiring was all the way though, i re-soldered the wire adapter and used heat shrink tubing to seal it all together.

Once everything was wired up I connected the fans to a 4 channel PC fan controller and fired it up. I do have to say I am very happy with the results.fan closeups

All parts were bought on amazon or ebay. Mistkings fittings while black are nice, they are very expensive compared to the white ones I found on amazon. The fans were bought on ebay and were very cheap. I estimate I built 4 of the fans for about $30.00 USD

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Vktech-5Pcs-Black-Brushless-DC-Cooling-Blower-Fan-5015S-5V-0-1-0-3A-50x15mm-/183518100748?hash=item2aba87fd0c


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YGR2ILM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MZ2PLCR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes the pump is for wort into the chiller. You could probably gravity feed it if the kettle was above the chiller. You also have to run santizer through the chiller before chilling, so the pump makes that easier.

I bought some cheap 14 gauge wire to wrap around the tube, it's just to maximize water-copper contact which helps a lot with cooler.

For the fittings I bought the following, for each end:
1/4 female tee
1/2" barb x 1/4 NPT x2
1/4 x 1/4 compression fitting

Easiest thing to do it just go to a local hardware store, start with a 1/4" x 10ft copper tube in your hand then start looking at the brass fittings and piece it together in front of you. How you attach it to your sink will depend on your faucet, I had to mcgyver a stupid reducer and hose clamp setup. Most hardware store reps could help you piece it all together if you have a photo and know your faucet size.

Your spindle is not 1.5", probably or even 1". I'd bet good money that your spindle is 3/4" diameter and 16 threads per inch. I have a very large lathe and my spindle is only 1.25". Look for a chuck with a 3/4" x 16 thread or one that can take a 3/4" x 16 threaded insert. The standard recommendation around here is the Nova G3. It's a little over your budget but you won't ever regret the purchase. Do NOT buy the chuck you linked to. It's not meant to hold wood and the jaws are independent which means you have to adjust each jaw separately - good luck getting things centered.

Assuming the lathe is 3/4 x 16 you want
https://www.amazon.com/NOVA-48202-Turning-Chuck-Insert/dp/B0064JJ52U and https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0064JJ88Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500901907&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=nova+insert&dpPl=1&dpID=41QjeodDeLL&ref=plSrch

Monoprice uses really cheap non-standard parts, sorry yours broke. Mine did the same thing a couple weeks ago.

What you really should do is buy this metal extruder assembly for $7, as the 3D printed ones I tried just didn't work well, and I tried several.

You'll also need these new connectors, they're cheap and you can also replace the crappy one on the other end of the Bowden tube while you're at it.

After removing the grub screw on the old extruder gear, use some heat, like a heat gun or a hair dryer, to help you pull off the old extruder feeding gear. Trust me, it's worth it. This new one is million times better. No skipping, no jams, no underextrusion. I suffered with that problem for ever! It all came down to cheap parts.

You should re-callibrate your e-steps, as it's honestly super easy. I think 100 was the number I used. The default is 92, so if you don't want to it won't be that far off.

Edit: /u/Karzdan, this will 100% fix your issue. My print quality really improved, this small upgrade made a huge, huge difference for me. This new spring is much stronger, and the new teeth really grip the filament.

I use something like this (https://www.amazon.com/Hayward-Bulkhead-Fitting-Gasket-Threaded/dp/B009D7OA1Q/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484850120&sr=8-1&keywords=bulkhead+cpvc) with a gate valve and the necessary adapters to connect the gate valve to the threaded interior. My manifold is 1/2" CPVC and slides right into the bulkhead with no need to permanently attach it (it is a tight enough fit to prevent grain from getting through. Is that not an option for you? I think that, even continuing to step up the size of your bulkhead until it fills the hole is a better option than spending $550 on a whole new mash tun.

I hope that helps - maybe posting a picture of the problem areas in your cooler would help you get some more accurate advice if it does not.

I'm pretty slammed schedule wise right now. I'll get some pictures if I can, but it may take a while before I can get to it.

It isn't complicated though. I welded one of these to one of these. The previously-linked element screws into that. I took an air-conditioner extension cord and cut the female end off. I wired the black and white wires to the two terminals on the element, then used a rubber fitting to cover the whole thing for safety. The green wire I left long and hanging out with a screw terminal on it.

On the keg itself, I cut a hole in the side of it with a hole saw to match the inner diameter of the ferrule (second link above) as close to the bottom as I could. My keg has a rubber bottom so I had to come up just a little. I welded the ferrule to the keg. I also welded a small stainless machine screw to it.

To use it, I attach the assembled heater unit to the keg using a PTFE gasket and tri-clamp. I take that ground wire and attach it to the stainless screw nut, that way there is always a good ground attached to the keg. Put your wash in, plug it in to a 110v outlet, and you're up and running.

If you want to try to weld it all yourself, do some reading up on TIG welding stainless steel. It's a different beast. This was my first real welding project, and I chose stainless of all things to start with! It isn't pretty, but it is water tight and serves it's purpose. I learned a TON and hopefully will improve a lot when I start another project.

Alright, The wood, nuts, bolts, screw, L brackets, plastic, plexi-glass, wire, air compressor, duct work reducer (to create funnel), and pail can all be bought at a hardware store outlet. (I had most of those all on hand)

Everything else

Pneumatic cylinder -crusher 25$

loading cylinder 30$

Solenoids 20$

6mm quick connect fittings 15$ you may need to order a converter or adapter to fit the crushing cylinder. I think its 1/4" fittings, so you could order those too but be sure to check

6mm Pneumatic hose 12$

6mm T splitter 6$

Air Pressure Regulator 10$ use to regulate the air to the loading piston as it runs at a lower psi/ can be slowed down some as well.

Shut off valve 6$

Quick connect to airline 6$ What you need may be different. Depending on your set up.

Arduino Uno 15$

12V Power supply 7$

12V to 9V 6$

158$ + construction materials that shouldn't cost more than 50$

Note: Some of this may be found else where for cheaper, but at least you know what you are looking for. Also I rounded everything up.

Let me know if this helps at all.

Edit: Its also helpful to have someone who can weld, so that cost has to be factored in as well. I traded work for work.

Do you mean 1/4 barrel? I'm making a Boka out of a 1/2 barrel keg (15.5 gal). Here's what I've bought:

5' of 2" copper DVW pipe - Local hardware store
25' of 1/4" copper refrigeration coil - Local hardware store
Stainless steel pot-scrubbers - Walmart

Clamp ferrule:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00835O0J6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

1500W heating element: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006IX89Q/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fitting for heating element:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GSL0S4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Triclamp:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ED2EZCK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Triclamp gasket: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013S1M75I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Thermometer:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0198473E4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A24QHZSKPYNZBC

Flux:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000V88WJW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Lead-free solder: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JM8D6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


I am going to start by forgoing the Liebig condenser as I don't think its terribly necessary and it can always be added easily just after the compression-fitted valve. The hardest part was finding 5' of copper pipe, everyplace wanted to sell me 10' and the prices were all over the place.

Hope this helps!

It looks like you're trying to bubba a weldless bulkhead.


http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Homebrewing-and-Winemaking-Supplies/dp/B0064OFGLO

It also looks like you're trying to use a hex nut as the connector that structurally supports two threaded pipe sections. This would work, provided you brazed the pipe sections to the hex nut, but Gluing them together probably won't work. You could epoxy them together, but I wouldn't expose epoxy to hot solvent vapors that are intended for consumption.

If I were you, I'd take the male side (which also has a female port on the opposite side, which you can see in the picture of the link, below) of a lead-free brass pipe union
http://www.amazon.com/Brass-Fitting-Union-Class-Female/dp/B004XEKWSY/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1463615762&sr=1-2&keywords=pipe+union+copper
and stick it in the hole you drilled for the "threaded nipple bolts" in your drawing. Braze it to the lid with silver solder using a TON of flux and a map gas torch, and then get a NPT threaded sanitary flange to connect to your vapor pathway. make sure you ptfe tape the NPT connection

I have/had the maker select. I fought it about ever other print I did on it until it finally became more expensive to troubleshoot than buy a new printer. Thats when I got the ender 3. I honestly think the ender 3 prints way better than the maker select ever did for me. Dont get me wrong the maker select was a good printer when it printed but I think the ender 3 outperforms it.

Yes the whole myth around resin being so expensive I think stems from a couple years ago when it was waaayyy more expensive and the only players in the game were selling $3000 printers. It has come way down and just realize every single time someone say that it is 10x more than FDM they are either misinformed, lying, or an idiot lol. I think the fact that you have to but it $60-$150 at a time instead of $17 (what a cheap roll of filament costs) really confuses some people. I have done the calculations though since I print for commissions and my resin volume per mini is usually between 4ml to 7ml. Resin can be bought all day for $0.08 per ml. I love it when people try to argue with me on it though :)

[Here are the connectors I bought](https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQYJ9T6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) you probably could find a smaller pack but this is the size you need. The connecter on the hotend side is a different size, but I didnt have any problems with that one so I only replaced the one on the extruder.

What you want is a Bulkhead Fitting. It makes a hole on a flat surface and allows you to attach PVC parts to it. I would say you add this right under the lip of the top pond and put ~1' length of PVC pipe on it. The water will fill to the pipe then drain out into the pond below. The only real consideration is the strength of the plastic and the length of the pipe. You wouldn't want to crack the pond.

Get a temp probe for your kettle. This one is pretty cheap, and another $10 for the bulkhead adapter.

No problem. I just checked mine, and the threading is 3/4 inch 16 thread. Because this is a bit of a strange size I had to get an adapter to make my nova chuck fit. You might have to do the same when you get a chuck. Mine has a mt1 tail stock, so my drill chuck is mt1.

I looked it up, and it appears that your lathe has the same specs as mine,but I make no promises.

By the way, good luck with your turning.

Then why aren't you just using a bulkhead fitting? Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Lifegard-Aquatics-Standard-Threaded-Bulkhead/dp/B0002Z7U1K/ref=lp_700755011_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1565222743&sr=1-6

with a threaded plug should be reasonably waterproof.

What I think you're looking for is a bulkhead fitting like this, usually installed so the threaded part is facing the inside but you could mount it the other way and get a cap that screws onto it.

You could also use something like this a cable gland but grab a closed end sealing nut to make it into a cap.

I think you're looking for bulkheads (like this https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0002DKANM). Usually they are set up for either glued or threaded PVC pipe. If you go with threaded bulkheads, you can get barbed adapters (https://www.homedepot.ca/product/1000117559) so you can use flexible tubing with them. Make sure to use teflon thread tape on all threaded joints or they will leak.


Keep in mind that bulkheads only work on flat surfaces, not curved. If you want to pass pipe through a curved surface, you can use a uniseal.

https://www.amazon.com/Eowpower-Pneumatic-Straight-Fitting-Connector/dp/B01MQYJ9T6/

I believe you need a PC4-M6 PTFE tube connector.