(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best lighting low voltage transformers

I don't have a mini-PC homelab, but I do have multiple power bricks for my SFF pfSense box, PoE switch, and a couple other devices. It's just kind of a mess in the rack, so a better solution would be great. I suppose the ultimate solution would be a central power brick with multiple outputs, but the only ones I know of that exist are for lower amps. And then there's the problem of multiple voltage outputs.

Maybe something like this 12v lighting splitter would work for several lower power devices.

EDIT: Probably the best solution would be a custom-built box with multiple 110v->12v/9v/5v selectable voltage circuit boards. Start with a 1U or small form factor PC case with power supply and tap into the 12v rails for input. Then split as needed and solder up some adjustable step-down regulators and dial in the desired voltage output. Wire those up to some toggle switches, with the output going to a few panel jacks, the 12v barrel kind.

According to that data sheet, you should be able to just hook up 12VDC and be good to go. Just make sure your power supply can provide enough amps. 0.6W per module would be 50mA @ 12V. So just count the modules and multiply by 50 to figure out how much current in mA you'll need, then add an additional 25% for safety.

EDIT: The above info is only valid if there isn't already an existing power supply hooked up to the modules.

EDIT 2: something like this would probably have more than enough juice to power all of them: Amazon

>I thought there might be a solution to power the camera locally via junction box without having an outlet for a wallwart given the rise in wifi usage. Seems like I have to find my own transformer and hard wire it.

a transformer will only get you a reduced AC voltage.

hardwiring a power supply to the lighting circuit is the least wired option.

but then you'll just leave the lighting circuit on?

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZ4RFSS/

this guy would fit in a 4" square box.

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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MZ4RFSS/

would fit in a single gang.

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you could put a 3/4" mud ring on the box the existing light fixture is on, and probably have room to get the power supply in.

I use these transformers which work well with a lot of applications including LEDs but keep in mind that not all LEDs work well with all transformers. This one for instance is 12 VAC and some LEDs like DC. Also keep in mind that the NEC requires fixtures to be listed with a place like UL so if you're planning on selling these things, it likely won't happen and you open yourself to lawsuits in case someone burns their house down.

Oddly, I didn't think of a commercial solution lol.

So something like this driver on Amazon I assume will do the trick?

The power supply is 40w; each light consumes 8w. You can only run up to 5 on the supplied power.

If you’re willing to cut and splice a wire, you can get a different power supply and splice in the hue connector. Just make sure it’s 24V, CONSTANT VOLTAGE.

I currently have 22 lights running on this 200w power supply. The splicing and re-waterproofing took a total of 10-15 minutes.

Good luck

sure thing, thanks for the response!

And understood on the point of they wont necessarily be 7.5A each.

Total load of the device however is around 4A, split 1A at 30v /3A at 12v

1. I've decided for the 12v supply to also go with a double insulated. Both brands are meanwell, and both are class 2
   
   LPC-35-1050 - powering 1 chip on board LED
   https://www.arrow.com/en/products/lpc-35-1050/mean-well-enterprises
   
   and LPV-35-12 - powering a 12v LED strip, 3 fans, 1 pump, and arduino
   https://www.amazon.com/LPV-35-12-Supply-Driver-90-264-Output/dp/B00IO1W38E/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_23_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M533CWTP0HM8K1038JWX&dpID=41%252BqirwjtGL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=detail
   
   
2. power supplies will be at most 2ft from receptacle
   
   
3. DC is being run in <1sqft direction from power supplies
   
   >But if all you were planning on doing was twisting them together and putting some tape over it? That's how people get hurt. That's how fires get started. That's how people die.
   
   fair enough, and i absolutely appreciate that. Are butt clips suitable in this case? or should i also be getting a small box like this
   
   https://www.amazon.com/BUD-Industries-NBF-32016-Plastic-Economy/dp/B07CY9KVW1/ref=sr_1_7?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1526137598&sr=1-7&keywords=electrical+box
   

This is my next project...

https://github.com/steve228uk/homebridge-magichome

SUPERNIGHT WIFI Wireless LED Smart Controller Working with Android and IOS System Mobile Phone Free App for 16.4ft 300 LEDs RGB LED Light Strips https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JS0KEBW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XJn-ybKJ9WEBS

Alightings 4pin LED Connector Connect Wire to Strip, Applicable for 10 mm 5050 RGB Waterproof LED Strip Lights, 22 - 20 AWG Cable Without Stripping the Wires https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I8CDF58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_jKn-ybEXT5PVQ

EvZ 4 Color 10m RGB Extension Cable Line for LED Strip RGB 5050 3528 Cord 4pin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DPQMKBS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yKn-ybSYT4318

EPBOWPT 12V 5A Power Supply AC Adapter for 5050 3528 RGB LED Strip Light Low Voltage Device https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KT20TNG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OKn-ybWC82QCH

SUPERNIGHT (TM) 16.4FT 5M SMD 5050 Waterproof 300LEDs RGB Color Changing Flexible LED Strip Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DTOAWZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4Kn-ybSM88NFB

I replaced an older low voltage controller (mechanical timer) with a cheap 12V LED Transformer that provided enough wattage for my landscape lights:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D9FTC77

I use a basic smart outlet and can control based on sunrise/sunset, etc. The transformer is mounted indoors, but I believe it is rated for outdoors.

I had previously purchased a very expensive outdoor transformer with an astronomical timer. The new setup is much cheaper and controlling the landscape lights via Google Home or mobile app is really nice. I am in the process of converting everything over to HASS.

I also have a Ring Pro and a 16V, 10VA transformer that isn't providing enough power to even allow the Pro to power up.

I've purchased a 16 Volt, 30VA transformer (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001R5UU0W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

However, I also have cloth bound wires. Was curious if anyone has any thoughts on using these type of wires with a 16 Volt, 30VA transformer and if it's any concern. This is also making the assumption that the cloth is intact throughout the lines, which what i've seen is the case.

Sure thing...

The LED tape I used:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07D3PD7VR/

Driver:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IY81HO2/

LED channel:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MS89UER/

Lever wire nuts:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NPGV7G2/

Zwave dimmer, SmartThings and Google Nest are a little beyond the scope of the OP’s question but easy stuff to google.

It’s a 12v 6a power supply like this one

ZOKIN UL Listed LED Power Supply Adapter DC12V 6A 72W Transformers Switching Power Supply 110V AC to 12V DC For 3528 5050 2835 RGB Flexible LED Tape Strip Light, 72W Max, 6A Max https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FD2VG7F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_S81CCb3086CYM

If it was integrated with a step down it would tell you can hook it up to a 120v.

Basically looking for a 24V, 125W or more LED power supply, can find them on amazon. something like this

There's cheaper options though.

I varied the wattage of the drivers (I have 9 of them) based on the length of the strip light. This is probably the one thing I would do differently if I were to start over, as the cost difference for the higher wattage drivers was not large, and the different wattage drivers turn the lights on at different times, so the different strips don't all turn on at the same time even though they are switched on at the same switch, there's like 1/2 second difference. I purchased them from here, they were significantly cheaper than amazon.

You can use the connector, but the power supply isn't UL-listed or approved by any other organization. This one is a better choice.

More like this. Just trim off the end and splice the wires together. If this isn't something you are comfortable with, I'd return it and get a single unit strip + power supply.

I suppose a 12V battery would work, but it wont run for very long

Here are the specs.

The motor driver is a good match to the motor.

Now you need a 400 W, 12 V power supply.

Here is one: $ 30

That is just a simple 12VDC power supply, with 2 amp capacity.

Something like this should be easy to connect.

Ok, if this was me....

I'd use Noctua fans (They're nearly silent and I've used a bunch for different things); https://noctua.at/en/products/fan They're available on Amazon.

Then install a 12V converter inside the fridge; tap into the 120V AC power from the fridge after the power comes inside the unit. This looks to be a small compact unit that will supply more than enough power. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRDGKHZ/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_DE9ADb64FBEXZ

Then install your fans, wire them up in parallel to the output size of this.

NOTE: depending on where you tap into the 120V line for the transformer will determine if the fans only run when the unit is on, or if it they are always running if the unit is plugged in. (Basically if you tap into the line right when it comes into the unit then they will run if the unit is plugged in; if you can find a spot to tap into it after a relay or something similar that is only hot when the unit is on... then you should be able to get it to power on only when the unit is on.

I thought the same thing, until I got a strip. Now I have led's behind my game machine, my upstairs workstation, under my pool table, and in my safe. I'm also going to add them to the underside of the cabinets on a timer to turn on between 6pm-6am.

Parts:


LED Strip Light Connector Adapter: http://amzn.com/B00FXTBNFY

LEDwholesalers 16.4 Feet LED Light Strip

White: http://amzn.com/B002Q907EW

Red: http://amzn.com/B002Q8YRYY

LED PCB DC plug Connector: http://amzn.com/B006IWM1AG (You will need to re-query amazon for this)

110VAC to 12 VDC 2-Amp 24-watt LED Power Adapter Transformer: http://amzn.com/B007ME2HMQ

Inline dimmer: http://amzn.com/B004T9ITQ0

I don't have a pic of the pool table with the lights, but here's the upstairs computer. I used about 4' on that, way overkill. It's bright enough to light up the room. I had to get the dimmer to cut that down a bit. I could use less LEDs but I don't feel like taking the monitors down to re-do it.

I was thinking of building an easy hot-wire cutter. I've got some stuff laying around and don't really want to put much into this as I'm not sure to what extent it will be used. Would this work as a power supply?

Schematic (borrowed from another user... can't remember who!

Parts list (canadian, but you can find everything on amazon and/or ebay, or locally):

Heater Board and Coil: https://www.amazon.ca/BAQI-5V-12V-Voltage-Induction-Heating/dp/B0747NBTBX

MOSFET Relay (for operating the momentary switch): https://www.amazon.ca/DROK-Transistor-Driving-Electronic-Controller/dp/B01J78FX9S

Power Supply (or if you have one from an xbox 360 it'll work) This one also includes the female jack: https://www.amazon.ca/Signcomplex-Supply-Transformer-Switching-Adapter/dp/B075R3RW6J

Glass tube: https://www.amazon.ca/Dunlop-202-Dun-Bottleneck-Slide-Reg/dp/B0009EQMZE

Main power switch: https://www.amazon.ca/Pilot-PLSW26-Safety-Racing-Toggle/dp/B000GTMUUI

Momentary Switch to activate the coil ONLY while pressed: https://www.amazon.ca/Ulincos-U16A1-Black-Button-Switch/dp/B015X34IP6

You'll also need some 18ga stranded wire, an enclosure, and some soldering skills/equipment.

I got this one from amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Supply-Transformer-AC100-240V-Switching-Adapter/dp/B075R3RW6J?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-iphone-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B075R3RW6J

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B075R3RW6J/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

One option is to keep the 12V buck off-board and buck the smaller supplies off of the 12V going into your card.

https://www.amazon.com/GALYGG-Switching-Universal-Regulated-Transformer/dp/B06XRDGKHZ/

https://www.amazon.com/LPV-35-12-Supply-Driver-90-264-Output/dp/B00IO1W38E/ref=sr_1_27?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540484513&sr=1-27&keywords=Mean+Well+12V

https://www.amazon.com/C2G-27397-Internal-Extension-Connector/dp/B0002J26JM/ref=sr_1_6?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540484582&sr=1-6&keywords=molex+cable

https://www.amazon.com/Wago-222-412-LEVERNUT-TRM-BLK/dp/B01DPLPX2A/ref=sr_1_41?ie=UTF8&qid=1540484752&sr=8-41&keywords=wago+2

Is there a plug that lets me take this to molex?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ME2HMQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

that's how theyre currently plugged in.

I went with a 16v 30va transformer on amazon. This one. If your voltage is too low (previous was 16v 10va) then it could eventually kill your ring pro which is what happened to mine. Ran great for 5 months then one day i was installing a light switch on the same line and it didn't turn on for 3 days. Ring sent a new pro out that instantly turned on and has been running solid ever since.

Power supply link

I also used a 12mm fire button, a mini slide on off switch and 18awg wire from analogboxmods.ca and an enclosure was just from the dollar store.


I tried to wire in an led from analogboxmods as well, but I think it burnt it out so I just took that right out of the build.


You will also need to solder a few spots but it's not too hard to do at all, some connections are just screw in though.

Nice choice to start. I wouldn't have offered information about the lighting without being willing to share.

I found this LED srtip on amazon. The LED strip came with the controller box, the remote and the correct size barrel adaper. It is a 12V set up. But it didn't come with an actual power adapter so I found this one. Unfortunately, the adhesive that is on the back of the LED strip loses it grip to the strip. I removed the adhesive by hand an I used this tape, which is on the expensive side but I worked with it at an old job and it will not fail. You will also need a soldering iron, solder, and some 22 AWG wire.

Before I replaced the adhesive, I had measured out the strip into the lengths that I need and cut along one of these lines. You will need to remove rubber coating that is over the pads. I used wires to bridge the sections of the strip that needed to be spaced out. I also had the wire measured out to bridge the levels on the shelf also. I located the strip right against the front face of the shelves to hide it from view as you can see from the last image.

If there is anything else that you have a question about let me know. I will admit that it was a time consuming and a bit of a pain in the ass. But it worked out well.