Reddit mentions: The best liquid cooling systems

My friend and I just finished building his first PC, and went the route of using AIO coolers for both his CPU (i7-8700k) and GPU (ASUS GTX 1080 Turbo).

This was built in an NZXT S340 Elite case, which had some radiator restrictions that you do not have, so you have a little more leeway on your cooler choice, but the overall results are phenomenal.

For CPU, we decided on the NZXT Kraken X62 280mm AIO cooler. The performance is one of the best for overall cooling performance, and is a breeze to install, plus he really liked the design of the unit. This was mounted in the front of the case as an intake with a push fan config (we had no choice on this due to the case, but I don't know that we would have done it differently regardless). The EVGA CLC 280mm is another very good 280mm cooler, but this comes entirely down to design preference. There are plenty of other options if you prefer a 360mm rad instead, but you can do the research and decide which one you like best (IMO 280mm is the best for noise/cooling performance). Ultimately almost all AIO coolers are rebranded Asetek coolers anyway, so they have the same overall design with different names and RGB LEDs.

For the GPU, we removed the factory blower fan and installed an NZXT Kraken G12 bracket, and paired it with a Corsair H55 120mm AIO. One thing to be careful of, the G12 is mostly universal, however some aftermarket cards have different PCB layouts for the board itself, and the G12 MAY NOT WORK for your card. If you can look up your card and send me the info, I should be able to look up the PCB on google and determine if it will work for your card. Since you have more options on your install, you could instead change this to a 140mm radiator for better cooling performance, however this is not necessary unless you want very significant overclocks, and will be more expensive depending on the unit you choose. One note for the GPU portion of this swap, the AIO swap MUST be installed in one of two ways. Either 1) you use fan headers on the motherboard to control GPU temps, or 2) you must buy this adapter to control the AIO fan from your GPU. If you choose option 2, you can also buy this fan splitter to power the G12 fan (its a constant RPM fan, no speed control) as well. We personally went with option 2 and added the splitter as well to control everything from the GPU fan header using MSI afterburner (IMO, it is definitely the best way to go). The 120mm AIO was mounted in the rear as an exhaust with a push fan configuration.

Some other related notes: 1) Many individuals will shout from the rooftops that you MUST buy VRAM heatsinks because the G12's fan will not be able to adequately cool them. We did not buy heatsinks, and have zero temp issues at a +600 memory OC. I personally do not feel this to be necessary, but heatsinks are cheap, so if you want to be absolutely sure, feel free to grab them. 2) If you choose to go with a different GPU cooler, say like the NZXT Kraken X42 with RGB lighting or pump speed control, MAKE SURE you have enough USB headers on your motherboard! Most likely you will need to grab a internal USB hub like this to run them all.

I do not have any pictures on hand right now, but there are multiple Youtube videos you can look at to see what it all looks like and entails, just search for "Kraken G12" and you will see multiple videos detailing install procedures, cooling performance, and how it looks.

If you have any questions, feel free to reach out. My friend has never been happier with his build, and the performance numbers are outstanding.

>-Previous threads here-
>
>
>Objective:
>Going back to the original - The $500 build from /u/JDM_WAAAT. Since then, many of those parts prices have drastically increased in price or are unavailable. So new objective, build it better, for less! And oh man did we ever.
>
>
>Rules for buying used server-grade parts on eBay:
>
>1. Buy from highly-rated, reputable sellers
>2. When "Or best offer" is available, use it. Sellers will likely discount parts, often up to 30%.
>3. Shop around. There are many resellers selling the same exact parts on eBay, find the one with the best price.
>4. Scrutinize the details of the auction. For example, make sure CPU stepping / revision is correct to what you need. Make sure components are listed as functioning and not "for parts only".
>5. Do not, under any circumstances buy QA/QC/QS/ES labled CPUs. Only buy official used / refurbished Intel Xeon CPUs. Chips with this label are not guaranteed to work, and might break functionality with something as simple as a BIOS update.
>6. Check sources other than Ebay. /r/buildapcsales can be a huge help with this. Amazon or Newegg often have huge sales on some of the new parts. Shop around people!
>
>Build
>
>http://i.imgur.com/X1NzK7Z.png
>
>http://i.imgur.com/r2d3lQp.png
>
>http://i.imgur.com/AHQJmto.png
>
>Type|Item|Price (eBay) | OBO? | OBO price
>:----|:----|:----|:---- |:----
>CPU | 2x Intel Xeon E5-2650 2.00GHz, 8 core 16 thread | Incl w/ MOBO | |
>Motherboard | Supermicro X9DRi-LN4F+ Dual Socket | $281.98 | YES | $260
>RAM | 16GB (4X4GB) DDR3 ECC REG x 2 | $29.89 ea | YES | $25.00 ea
>CPU Cooler | 2x Arctic Freezer i11 CO | $19.22 ea | |
>PSU | EVGA 450W BT | $24.99 | |
>EPS Splitter | 8 Pin to Dual 8 Pin EPS Splitter | $6.00 | |
>24 Pin Extention | 12" 24 Pin Power Extention | $9.99 | |
>Case | Phanteks Enthoo Pro | $79.99 | $15 MIR | $64.99
>Thermal Compound | Gelid GC Extreme | $12.99 | |
>Other | Tax, shipping, fees | $3.60 | |
>Total | | $517.76 | after OBO | $471
>Optional Extras | Sata cable 6 pack | $7.49 | |
>Optional Extras | Sata power splitter | $6.27| |
>
>---
>
>About this build:
>
>There you have it. If you recall, the original $500 build actually used this same CPU. BUT ONLY 1!. Here, we used 2, gave it more RAM, and all for over $50 less!
>
> General: I recently completed almost this exact build, same mobo, case, etc. Just ended up with different RAM config, and used dual E5-2630L CPU's that i got for a steal. This build will be using two Intel Xeon processors on Intel Socket 2011 motherboard with Quad-Channel DDR3-ECC RDIMM memory. It does not include specifications for SSD or HDD.
> CPU: The Intel Xeon E5-2650 is a high power, 8 core, 16 thread CPU that came out Q1 2012. 2.0Ghz clock, 2.8 Ghz turbo. It has a counterpart, the E5-2600L series who are also 8 cores, but low power. If you don't need quite as much Passmark power, these are also a power saving option at a slightly lower price point. MSRP when it was released was around $1100.00 USD Each. Plex Transcoder has true multi-threaded support and will take advantage of all 32 threads. So while this CPU might not be clocked as fast as what most of you are used to, the sheer amount of cores/threads will more than make up for it. Dual E5-2650's will score 15000 on passmark. Another thing to consider is that since the CPU is so cheap, you won't have to worry about it when it comes time to upgrade in the future. You can replace it with any V1 or V2 E5-2600 series cpu's. Dual E5-2660 V2, 10 core 20 thread, 2.20GHz base / 3.00 Ghz turbo in the future for about +4000 extra passmark score.
> Motherboard: Supermicro X9DRi-LN4F (Link to Supermicro Product Spec Page) This motherboard has dual 2011 sockets with a whopping 24 DIMM slots. With this build we'll be using only 8 of those available DIMMS, so there's a possible future upgrade. 6 SATA ports are standard, along with 2 SAS ports, for a total of 14 available SATA connections. Quad Gigabit NIC is also standard, plus IPMI.
> RAM: Here, we're using 8x4GB DDR3 ECC REG for quad channel support, and a total of 32GB of available memory. 32GB is a good value here. Another 2 sets would fill all 24 slots, for a total of 96GB.
> CPU Cooler: There's not much to say here. It's compatible, it's quiet, and it works. We won't be overclocking, so there's not much to worry about so long as it works. Also designed for continuous operations.
> PSU: It's cheap, powerful enough, and works. Not much more to say.
> Case: This case has full SSI-EEB+ (E-ATX with specialized mounting) support. Supports 6 3.5" hard drives two 2.5" SSDs, and two 5.25" bays natively. It's an all-around wonderful case, and it's really well-constructed (I have one, it's great). Also, one of the few cases that actually will fit this massive MOBO. In the front is a MASSIVE 200mm intake fan. Didn't even know they made them that big.
> Splitter/Extension These are necessary with the parts listed above to work. The power supply listed only has 1 8 Pin EPS connection for the CPU. Since we have 2, need a splitter. If you use a different PSU, check on the # of EPS connections. If it has 2, this part is not necessary. This board BARELY fits in the case. I know, I have both! Here's some pictures to show. Because of this, wiring the power can be a bit tricky, and to get it done in a clean way, need the 12" extension.
> Thermal Paste This is the best non-liquid metal thermal compound out there, hands down.
>
>Cautionary notes, other details
>
>1. Server equipment is stripped down to the bare minimum for compatibility and reliability. Because of this, features you are used to having might be missing - for example, some server motherboards don't have onboard audio. Also, most will use VGA onboard.
>2. Use a SSD for your host OS. This is likely where your Plex metadata will live, so if you're going to generate thumbnails and you have a sizeable library, make sure to get an appropriate size. I have about 20TB of media with thumbnails turned on, and 500GB is starting to feel tight. About 250GB is a good start for most people.
>3. Familiarize yourself with the BIOS options. Some may be different than consumer models. Make sure Hyper-threading is turned on in the BIOS. When in doubt, clear the CMOS / reset to default. You should verify that all 24-threads are showing in your host OS.
>4. Almost any OS will work. Includes ESXI, unRAID, FreeNAS, Linux, and Windows of course.
>5. Evaluate your RAID options. This motherboard has capabilities for onboard RAID, but that isn't for everyone.
>
>Upgrades, other parts
>
>1. Cheap storage in the form of $33 refurbished 2TB Hitachi Ultrastar hard drives. These are Enterprise level drives, great for use with RAID arrays.
>2. Sell the pair of E5-2650's & get Dual E5-2660 V2, 10 core 20 thread, 2.20GHz base / 3.00 Ghz turbo for 19,000 Passmark score. At time of posting these were $249.99 OBO w/ free shipping, extremely great value currently. If you're more concerned about power consumption, consider a pair of E5-2650L's for $41.50 each OBO at the time of this post, for a sweet ~14k passmark at only 70w TDP each.
>3. MORE RAM!
>4. Liquid cooling - If you plan on upgrading to V2's this is a good idea. Can get Corsair H55's for $60 each.
>5. DO IT ALL! If you want more power right now, sell the CPU's that come with the mobo for ~80 and grab a pair of E5-2660's for $240. Triple the RAM for an extra $100. Liquid cool the PSU's for an added $80. Finally, upgrade to a 550w semi modular 80+ gold psu for an extra ~$30 (one's on sale @ Newegg for $55 after MIR currently). Grand Total: around $840.
>
>FAQ
>
> Q: Aren't used parts unreliable?*

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----

> Hello. I am currently in the process of my first pc build, I have a 7700k and am looking to overclock it to a maximum clock speed of 5.0 ghz, perhaps less.
>
> Will this AIO water cooler be sufficient?
>
> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J4ZGT88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7CVxzbV1X681K
>
> I understand that this particular cpu tends to run very hot. I'm making a white themed build and this one fits perfectly... but if it's not powerful enough i'm okay with settling with another... what would you recommend?
>
> Also, what are ideal cpu temps while under load? Like what number would be considered dangerous? I'm quite new to all this, so thanks in advance :)

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6llza8/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_06_2017/djvwbqo

----

> I have an x299 gigabyte AORUS gaming 7 here.
>
> USB 3.0 DAC-UP problem here. I've been trying to fix this with many solutions, mainly reinstalling the drivers completely, clean install of windows, nothing has worked. I've updated my bios and everything as well.
>
> Let me begin, I bought said motherboard on friday of last week, plugged it all in, installed my i9-7900x, working perfectly. Unplugged the whole setup and left for virginia until today, came back, plugged everything back in, and now I have this problem. The USB 3.0 DAC-UP ports were working for my keyboard and mouse when I first installed the drivers and everything seemed so smooth and nice with the mouse and keyboard. Fast forward to today when I plugged everything back in and low and behold my keyboard and mouse aren't lighting up nor working anymore, every other port works for my keyboard and mouse except those. I looked at all the connections to the motherboard and everything is still good, I unplugged and replugged in my power supply to make sure proper power was flowing still. Everything in the bios looks good, even went and looked at tomshardware where someone recommended to turn off the port in the BIOS and then restart and turn it back on, still no avail. I'm at a loss of what to do, any ideas?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6llza8/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_06_2017/djv7o4c

----

> I can't set up a Wi-Fi hotspot using my computer.
>
> I'm using dial-up (broadband network) internet right now(in Bulgaria), I manually connect to it everytime I open the PC. In my other home (in Turkey) the internet (now named as Ethernet) connects automatically when I open the PC. I think that's because it's connected to the router nearby.
>
> While I'm using the "Ethernet", I can easily set the PC as a Wi-Fi hotspot (though it's not needed). But while using this "Dial-Up Broadband Network", I go to settings---network and internet---mobile hotspot, it says that "we can't set up mobile hotspot because there isn't any ethernet,wi-fi or cellular data on your PC".
>
> Then I go to Control Panel to check the connections, and really it says "no internet" on: Ethernet (1), Ethernet 2 (sometimes "Ethernet 3" and "Wi-Fi" appears) and "Hamachi 2". Apparently there is internet only in "Broadband Network" (dial-up), and because of this (lack of internet in "ethernet") I can't set up a wi-fi hotspot even while using 3rd party apps (such as MyFreeWifi or Connectify).
>
> I searched the internet for a "fix" but the methods I tried (around 8 methods) didn't work for me even though it did for many people. Is there anything I can do right now?
>
> EDIT: Useful Info: Windows 10 Version 1703 (Os Build 15063.447)

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6llza8/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_06_2017/djv964g

----

> What shows my total system power draw on HEMonitor? Is it my package, AI Cores, GT, or Uncore? Or is it all added together?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6llza8/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_06_2017/djvejym

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> I'm looking for a new laptop, mostly for work/school but some light gaming. Any suggestions for something decent?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6llza8/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_06_2017/djvezug

----

> Okay, so I'm going to buy a mechanical keyboard. I'm looking at the cougar ultimus, which comes in cherry MX blue or red switches.
> I've never compared the sounds for myself, and when I do a simple google search of people comparing the two, I can only get people typing while bottoming out the red switches and blue switches, and it seems like red switches are very similar to membrane, which is why I want blue.
> However, I can't compare the two because the only comparison videos are made by people bottoming out both key types, which completely negates the silence of the red switches, and makes the blue switches sound like tap-dancing (as I heard someone say).
> I really want the satisfying "click" that comes with the blue switches, though. if anyone could send me a link to a video where someone doesn't bottom-out the blues, or the Reds, that would be greatly appreciated.

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6llza8/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_06_2017/djvsjdy

----

> I have Corsair vengeance RGB ddr4 ram on my new build. I cant control them through Corsair link, is Link the correct program or is it something else?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6llza8/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_06_2017/djvuebo

----

> Hey guys I had this AOC monitor for 2 years now and randomly the bottom half of the monitor will flicker black for like a millisecond (seriously if you blink you would miss it).
>
> I feel like this has been happening after the latest Nvidia GPU update but I'm not sure. Should I just accept the fact that my monitor may finally be dying? Thanks!

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6llza8/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_06_2017/djvuqem

----

> I have a Extended Glorious Gaming Mousepad and I'm wondering if I can wash it and how? I read somewhere that it "can" be machine washed but I don't know for sure and at what settings. I also read that they would rather if you hand wash it. Got anything on this?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6llza8/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_06_2017/djvw8kj

----

> besides selling your old parts and mining for digital currencies, what other ways can you make money with a high end gaming pc?

/r/pcmasterrace/comments/6llza8/daily_simple_questions_thread_jul_06_2017/djw8g2w

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Alright, after an hour of searching and compiling, I’ve come up with an AMD-based build with Full RGB aesthetics.

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600X

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07SQBFN2D/ref=ox_sc_act_image_8?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

This Processor has an insane value for the money. This will handle moderate workstation, browsing, virtualization, and heavy gaming. I feel like you would benefit from a 3600X rather than a 3600 as it has better stock and OC speeds. The 3600X is only $40 more than the 3600 on Amazon.

GPU: MSI Mech OC Radeon RX 5700 XT

https://www.newegg.com/msi-radeon-rx-5700-xt-rx-5700-xt-mech-oc/p/N82E16814137465?item=N82E16814137465

The 5700 XT will absolutely shred 1080p gaming and excel at 1440p gaming. You can easily achieve 144+FPS at 1080p resolution & max settings on Fortnite, Rust, Rainbow Six Siege, CS:GO, Dota, COD, and Minecraft (with heavy mods) and 100+FPS on many AAA titles. In addition to that, the 5700 XT can even handle 4K gaming in games such as Forza, eSport titles, GTA, etc.
I went with the Mech OC model as it is the best model that is still in stock. It’ll provide better thermals compared to blower-styled reference cards.

RAM: Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro DDR4-3600 16GB

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07TC4TPCN/ref=ox_sc_act_image_5?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

With Zen 2 natively supporting higher RAM frequencies, there’s no reason to not surpass the 3000MHz threshold. 3600MHz seems to be the “sweet spot” for Zen 2 as suggested by AMD and many other technical experts.


SSD: Sabrent Rocket 4 1TB NVMe SSD

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07LGF54XR/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A29Y8OP2GPR7PE&psc=1

The Sabrent Rocket is among the top of the value for money list in the storage market. This is near equal to Intel’s popular 660p SSD, but it has nearly double the performance. Unlike the Intel 660P, the Rocket 4 uses the Toshiba TLC NAND, which has better quality and sustained speeds during read and write cycles.

MOBO: MSI MPG X570 Gaming Plus

https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16813144262?item=N82E16813144262

This motherboard is a mid-range X570 board. It will enable you to have a very decent OC and RGB Sync experience. I would strongly recommend getting a X570 to get PCIe 4.0 support and bypassing the hassle of a BIOS update.

PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Modular

https://www.newegg.com/evga-supernova-g3-series-220-g3-0650-y1-650w/p/N82E16817438094?item=N82E16817438094

The last thing you want to do in a build is to cheap out on the power supply. The EVGA SuperNOVA series is one of the best PSU series out there. The G3 650W is fully modular, as well as having a 80+ Gold rating. I also believe there is a 10 year warranty of this model. Also, there is currently a $20 rebate on Newegg for this power supply.

CPU Cooler: Cooler Master ML240L AIO Cooler

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075YPG52N/ref=ox_sc_act_image_3?smid=A1FEO2FBXOY7WI&psc=1

The ML240L is a perfect option for the 3600X. It is one of the best budget AIOs out there. It will provide better thermals compared to stock coolers and bring better RGB aesthetics to the build.

Case: Thermaltake Level 20 MT RGB Mid-Tower

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07LCMR3JC/ref=ox_sc_act_image_4?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

The Level 20 MT is perfect for this build. This is a case that is known to provide good airflow, which will definitely help with the thermals. It also features 3 TT RGB fans, which can be synced to the RAM, MOBO, GPU, and AIO CPU Cooler.

Monitor: Acer KG241Q 23.6” Full HD 144Hz Monitor

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07MG85X1M/ref=ox_sc_act_image_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

The KG241Q is a 1ms, 144hz 1080p monitor with a TN-panel. While the colors are not as vibrant as IPS-Panel monitors, you will get better responsiveness with the TN panels. Also, the KG241Q features AMD FreeSync technology, which can be used to your advantage to reduce stuttering and tearing during gaming, since you have an AMD GPU.

So that’s it. I know this a $100-200 over $1400. But this is a build with no $$$ wasted. If you have any questions, fell free to reply or PM me.

Feedback on intended use:

Casual streaming and gaming without too many hiccups screams 8 core CPU to me. You're good in that book so the Red vs Blue debate is something I don't want to write an essay on. Your choice really.

Performance Feedback:

Here is where red wins because of price alone. If you only want 1080p gaming with streaming active then a 3700x is your winner. You will enjoy that 144Hz monitor, but hopefully you are into shooters/FPS games because that is a strong monitor for your needs.

Budget Thoughts:

In looking at the bottom dollar there is room to invest a bit more and my answer there is COOLING. Don't build a $1000+ machine and then go stock cooling or get the cheapest air cooler on the market. You are using nice components. Match that with something like this at least: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Hydro-Liquid-Cooler-Radiator/dp/B079NXZQBC/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=AIO+cooler&qid=1565752973&s=gateway&sr=8-8

Overall:

Your monitor, CPU options, and GPU is a win. Great selections for the top of mid-tier performance. I would say up the memory to 3200MHz since the prices are virtually similar, go bigger on storage (2tb HDD and 500GB SSD) so you can save and edit videos if you enjoy streaming, and as I mentioned before think about using a better air cooler or investing in an AIO like the one I linked or better.

The best and relatively easiest ways to address poor aesthetics in the CPU are a modular or semi-modular PSU and replacement sleeved and color coordinated cables from said PSU, or if they are too expensive (and they are) sleeved cable extensions look just as good and are way cheaper, but create additional cable management.

​

Regarding a cooling system you should definitely still have one even if you are not OC'ing. If you want to go cheap, get a solid air cooler like the Hyper 212 Evo. If you are more concerned about looks, maybe consider an AIO, like the EVGA CLC240. It's more expensive, but looks nice.

​

Not 100% sure what you mean about the front facing fan, but if you are asking about fan placement, then yes at the front of the case is fine just make sure it isn't going against the airflow of other fans. If you mean fan orientation, like intake/exhaust, then that is also fine, with the same caveat. Generally speaking you want your airflow coming in the front/bottom and exhausting out the top/back.

​

PSU:
EVGA 600BQ Semi-Modular (MB power is the only non-modular) https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bronze-Modular-Warranty-110-BQ-0600-K1/dp/B01MTJTO2O/ref=sr_1_1?crid=244UIDUJ0IXE&keywords=600+watt+power+supply&qid=1556624118&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011%2Cp_36%3A2500-6000%2Cp_89%3ACorsair%7CEVGA%7CSeasonic%7Cbe+quiet%21%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6906985011&rnid=386442011&rps=1&s=pc&sprefix=600+watt+p%2Caps%2C136&sr=1-1

One thing to keep in mind about PSU's is they tend to go on sale more frequently and at better discounts (percentage wise) than many other PC components.

​

Cable Extensions:

Antec Sleeved PSU extension cables

https://www.amazon.com/Antec-Supply-Sleeved-Extension-Length/dp/B07C6CLXW8/ref=sr_1_fkmrnull_3?keywords=antec+psu+cable+extensions&qid=1556624318&s=electronics&sr=1-3-fkmrnull

​

CPU Cooler:

Hyper 212 Evo (Air cooler-Cheap and functional, not pretty)

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI

CLC 240 (AIO water cooling- Pretty and functional, not cheap)

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Liquid-Cooler-Cooling-400-HY-CL24-V1/dp/B074WH52BW/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=clc+240&qid=1556624855&s=electronics&sr=1-1

​

​

Hope this helps!

Got any ideas for budget? Also, what software will you be using and what bitrate, resolution and general quality settings are you planning on encoding at? Is it also a necessity for 32GB of RAM? You would probably be able to save a good chunk of money to put towards other parts if you went with 16 or perhaps 24.

---

I'm not sure on the display outputs of the GTX 480, however running 3 monitors off of that and one off your onboard graphics chip you should be good to go (aslong as the connections aren't VGA, as corpnewt mentioned; it's quite hit-and-miss). For onboard graphics I'd recommend a motherboard with a HD530 chip, they're pretty well supported and off the top of my head require 2 bootflags to get working.

---

In terms of motherboards it's not particularly my forte, so I may be wrong on some of these things. I think it's generally accepted that Gigabyte motherboards are the best for hackintoshing and are all round great boards, so I'd definitely recommend one. As I said you'd probably want a board with a HD530 chip, or another chip with similar support. Assuming you want 32 gig of RAM you're gonna need support for that, and if you go for 16 for now you still might want to go for a board that supports 32 incase you decide to upgrade in the future or if 16 is not enough. I'd also recommend the 115x chipset as imo is going to give you the most choices on CPU with the best compatibility. After some talks with /u/CorpNewt he suggested this Gigabyte board. It's got enough PCI-E slots, supported onboard graphics (HD530), support for 64gb of RAM, ThunderBolt and good hackintosh support which should check all the boxes.

---

CPU? 6700k; 4 cores, 8 threads, 4.0Ghz clock speed, it's overclockability gives you some headroom if you ever need a bump in performance, the most powerful CPU you can get on Skylake currently (yes the enthusiast CPU's are round the corner but they are silly money and this should be plenty of power), great longevity, and most of all have good OSX support.

---

The CPU can be found here. You're gonna want a cooler such as a Hyper 212 Evo or a Corsair H55 AIO (I can vouch for this cooler, have one myself and it's great). If you plan on overclocking or want to just in case, you should probably look at something a bit beefier like a Corsair H100i AIO.

The mobo can be found here.

---

Feel free to fire away with any questions you have.

I'd get the specs of the torque applied to the retention bracket (likely in nM), then apply identical force with the new cooling solution.

And it looks like someone has done the hard work for you...

https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/bb7gs6/g12_bracket_install_guide_vega_5664/

----

I did a 120mm AIO on my RX 580 8GB (NZXT G12 bracket). The gameplay smoothness vs the stock heat sink & fans is very, very apparent. Also, I do have a semi-aggressive (custom) fan profile setup via MSI Afterburner with Noctua Redux fans. The overall effect is: silky smooth gameplay, vastly reduced temps and reduced noise!

https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Liquid-Freezer-120-Performance/dp/B015E14J9M/

This AIO in specific.

The part that I didn't initially realize was that the VRMs were then uncovered (ie. their heat was NOT being dissipated actively). I bought a small 80mm/92mm fan bracket, a Noctua 80mm Redux fan and pointed it straight at the VRMs - the fan runs at 100% RPM. Needless to say, it is a complex cooling solution, but it is working flawlessly! Small aluminum heat sinks & silicone heat transfer pads were applied too all RAM chips on the GPU. A few of the RAM chips would not allow an aluminum heat sink due to contact with the AIO coldplate and mounting bracket, so the silicone pads were used on those instead - this created an ideal mating surface oddly enough - the silicone pads are touching the cold plate, ergo their heat is transferred away actively.

----

During a light gaming session with the original XFX fan setup, I could hear the fans spin up when the screen activity increased, as one would expect. The game play had light stutter (ie. loading textures, etc) that I would say is akin from going from 60fps to 59fps, then back up to 60fps.

With the fully done AIO solution & VRM fan, the only perceptible 'stutter' is when an area/map/stage loads - there is a .5-ish second of textures loading (no actual slow down). This was absolutely better than the original setup, just far more expensive. :)

With the original fans, idle temp was around 45-50c and peak was around 80c. Toasty!

With the AIO complete setup, idle temp is 24c and peak is 60c.

Frankly, I'll never go back to an air cooling setup, unless it is similar to what I have with my AIO setup.

If you like, I can post a photo of my entire setup this evening - it is nowhere near as 'crowded' as it sounds.

I'm looking to build a new PC soon. I currently have ~$1700 saved towards it. It's mainly going to be used for WoW, Overwatch, and ARK: Survival Evolved, with the occasional RPG like the Witcher 3.

I'm pretty set on an i7 7700k, a Phanteks Enthoo Luxe case ( https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-Enthoo-Tower-Chassis-PH-ES614L_WT/dp/B00LW3X1P0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505347791&sr=8-2&keywords=phanteks+enthoo+luxe ), and a corsair liquid cooler for it, since I've heard the 7700k runs hot (something like https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505347894&sr=1-2&keywords=corsair+liquid+cooling ). I was also considering a 1TB SSD to go along with the HDD, but people keep telling me I don't need that much (I'd put most of my games on it, as well as my OS, ARK alone is like 100gb).

I plan on getting a 1080p 144hz monitor around/after the time I build it, I don't mind continuing to use my ancient HP monitor for an extra week or two if it means getting a better PC sooner.

What should the rest of the build be? I was looking at a 1080, but would it be worth saving a little more for a 1080ti? I know next to nothing about actually building a PC, I'm mostly trying to pick the parts out, and my friend will build it for me. (I'm a very shaky person, on top of being super hairy and having a lot of static). I just don't know if I should wait a little longer to get some better parts, stuff like how much RAM I'll need for gaming (I was thinking 16gb would be good, but some people suggest 32gb?), what kind of MOBO I'll need, etc. I'm really lost, and am just super excited about finally upgrading to something really good.

Sorry for the wall of text and all the questions. Again, first time I'm spending THIS much on a PC.

What's your total budget? I'm assuming right around 2000.

If that's the case, I highly recommend a water cooler with your 7700k. I personally have a Corsair h100i because those chips are notorious for running hot due to shitty ihs paste. I also got mine delidded after I realized that I'd go over 80C at full load. Once the process was done, my chip never saw over 50C. While the h7 is a great cooler for the money, I just wouldn't be comfortable with it on this chip.

Not to advertise, but I purchased my 7700k from the silicon lottery, which basically tests chips and pushes them as far as they'll go. I purchased mine with a stable 4.9GHz overclock. I especially recommend that if you're going to sport a 1080ti. It would be a shame to be gaming and be throttled back because of the excessive heat. Just something to keep in mind. You could be lucky and get a cool and powerful chip, or you could get a shitty one. It's all luck. With the SL, you get one guaranteed to work as advertised. For example, you can buy this one already delidded and ready to OC to 5.0GHz.

Also, try to opt for a bigger storage drive. 1TB is nice, but if you're planning on gaming and as such, that thing fills quick. I had to upgrade already from a 1TB to a 4TB.

Everything else looks great.

EDIT: You swapped out the i7-7700k for the i5-8600k. I still recommend everything I said above. Several friends of mine went through these guys and they're fantastic.

EDIT2: You can still get this chip from the SL guaranteed to hit 5.0 here.

Same case here!

I'd go with the 140mm option for all, honestly. Corsair ML140 Pro are really good fans, they're $25 each but, well worth it!

They NZXT Kraken x62 is a solid choice, but depending on your mobo you will more than likely need a Internal USB Hub

Personally I'd go with the EVGA CLC it's slightly better and to me it's a little more aesthetically pleasing (I have it paired with an EVGA GPU)

The rad can go pretty much anywhere that you want. I have it mounted on the top and it does a good job there.

Hoped that helped, and all works out well!

Sure bud, here is the cooler and here is the fan I put on the rad, completely optional but I'm certain makes a big difference in noise, as Noctuas are top end.

Also, here is the video tutorial for installation, an easy installation that takes a little over an hour if you have the right tools, but is pretty simple. Here is the tool set I used, and it gave me any size or fit that I needed to do this easily, plus is great if you ever do any computer customizing in general and need a nice set.

If you have any more questions feel free to ask.

Here's a list of the changes I'd make.

• Swap the 9900k for a 9700k
  
• Swap the cooler for a 240mm AIO Like this one
  
• Switch the 1080 ti to a 2080 Like this one
  
• Swap PSU for the 860 watt 80+ platinum (same price)
  
• Swap monitor for a 1440p 165Hz unit Like this one
  
  Overall, this dials back the absurd heat output of the 9900k and gives you easier overclocking for single-threaded performance and gaming. The boost in cooler lets you get more out of an overclock. The GPU change is cheaper with equivalent or better performance and possible improvements in the future as drivers advance. The PSU is fine but better efficiency and a little more power headroom is nice, especially since it's a direct upgrade for the same price. The monitor gives you a high refresh-rate display with a substantial detail boost over 1080p. 240Hz is only slightly better than 165Hz and it borders on indistinguishable. You can cut the cost and get a far better screen. The case and RAM are fine, you can add RAM sticks if needed in the future (prices are falling). The SSD is great and you can supplement with a cheap multi-terabyte HDD for ~$100-200 if you run out of space in the future.

Warning:

Never pay someone using PayPal friends/family.

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Title: [SG] [H] Mini-ATX build, i7 6700K 4 core 4.2GHz, 32GB 3200 MHz DDR4, Samsung 850 EVO 250GB, ASUS Pro gaming board, Liquid cooling, 6 months old [W] PayPal / £ pickup London
Username: /u/my13s
Original Post:
Item Name: Mini-ATX build, i7 6700K 4 core 4.2GHz, 32GB 3200 MHz DDR4, Liquid cooling, 6 months old

Condition: Mint condition, babied (the Canadian way)

Timestamps: https://goo.gl/photos/QEBackVQdKxD1pL88

Price: £949 ono (reasonable offers considered, no parting out)

Postage and Payment: £20-30 via UPS/Fedex (don't trust Royal Mail) or pickup N65XG London

Any additional information:

6 months, March 1st build. Used less than 4 months. Been sitting around in the box since July.

It was to be my ongoing project but unfortunately I'm selling as I've had to buy a laptop to work in the city half the week and really don't need two high spec machines in the house (some photos in the gallery at the end).

Clean install Win10 currently loaded, if you're looking for a high spec machine or want to get into gaming/VR just drop a video card in and you're off to the races (which is what I was going to do). Otherwise the machine works amazing as is.

Google the case NZXT Manta some really cool stuff you can do with this mini tower. I had it on my desk as it's a real beauty.

Drop me any questions or photo requests.

Specs/Prices:

*Current 'Price' listed from Amazon subject to change via Amazon

ASUS Z170I Pro Gaming Motherboard - Grey/Red/Black

RRP: £167.99 - Current price: £151.02 - I paid: £151.24
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B015FY4HLS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

• • -
    
    Corsair CW-9060025-WW Hydro Series H100i V2 240 mm Extreme Performance All-In-One Liquid CPU Cooler - Black
    
    RRP: £134.99 - Current price: £104.97 - I paid: £109.99
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B019EXSSBG/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
• • -
    
    EVGA SuperNova P2 650 W Platinum Fully Modular Power Supply Unit
    
    RRP: £129.99 - Current price: £125.47 - I paid: £107
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0151DNTLM/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
• • -
    
    Samsung 850 EVO 250 GB 2.5 inch Solid State Drive - Black
    
    RRP: £94.99 - Current price: £94.30 - I paid: £86.69
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00P736UEU/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
• • -
    
    NZXT Manta Mini ITX Case for PC - Black
    
    Current price: £119.99 - I paid: £110
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01B4RPWTG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
• • -
    
    Corsair Vengeance LPX 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) 3200 MHz DDR4 Memory Kit - Red
    
    RRP: £439.99 - Current price: £318.36 - I paid: £208
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01ARHF6Z4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    
• • -
    
    Intel Core i7 6700K Processor (4 GHz, 4 Core, 8 Threads, 8 MB cache, LGA1151 Socket Box)
    
    RRP: £418.99 - Current price: £287.00 - I paid: £308
    https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B010T6DQTQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    
    Note: the ASUS gaming board has some awesome BIOS overclocking GUI and some apps you can install as well to switch up modes, beginner to advanced. I had this up at 4.5Ghz when I was playing about once with a few clicks. Someone invested could prob get a little more out of it.
    
    
• • -
    
    RRP: £1500 - Current price part by part: £1200 - I paid: £1100 (plus love and labour right?)
    
    All manuals, extra parts are in the original boxes. Keep or leave the boxes, I can pack the extras in the main tower box no problem.
    
    I am a bot, and this action was performed automatically. Please contact the moderators of this subreddit if you have any questions or concerns.

For a good high airflow case, the Fractal Design Meshify C is a great mid tower with excellent airflow and a nice tempered side panel to finish it off. It should be big enough for your build and provide great cooling. As for an AIO, the Meshify C can support a double 140mm radiator in the front or top, so I would recommend the NZXT Kraken X62 280mm. I think the infinity mirror on the front looks awesome and the matte black rad and fans aren’t too flashy. If you end up going with another case, there is a 120mm variant of the Kraken that would fit in smaller fan slots.

Meshify C case: [Meshify C ATX](Fractal Design Meshify C Black ATX High-Airflow Compact Light Tint Tempered Glass Mid Tower Computer Case https://m.newegg.com/product/N82E16811352084?m_ver=1)

NZXT Kraken: [Kraken](NZXT Kraken X62 280mm - All-In-One RGB CPU Liquid Cooler - CAM-Powered - Infinity Mirror Design - Performance Engineered Pump - Reinforced Extended Tubing - Aer P140mm Radiator Fan (2 Included) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XX8Q1CL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_7ociDbB5CCD3V)

• I say stick with the 7700k if you have the money, it might be overkill but also may buy you another year or two before needing to upgrade again.
  
• Not sure how much you want to spend but the Asus z270E is usually only $20 more and has built-in WiFi and Bluetooth.
  
• I'd drop the CD Writer. You really won't need it. If you do find you need a CD writer then just purchase an external like this.
  
• Also, for another $20 or so you could get an AIO watercooler like the Corsair H100i V2 or the Thermaltake Water 3.0 which will help you take advantage of overclocking that 7700k. I also think they are easier to install in their own way.
  
  Micro Center has great deals on processors and mobos with an automatic $30 off for matching cpu to mobo. Good luck building!
  

Well, there are a few ways to try to go about cooling them properly.

1. Try air (not recommended). Running a test bench setup (where the motherboard/GPUs are out in open air) with lots of fans might keep the GPUs cool, or at least not throttling. Setting the GPU fans at 100% speed and perhaps underclocking them might help too.
   
2. Try water. Either with AIO solutions like the Kraken G10, or a custom loop. An AIO setup will run you approximately $100 per card and keep temperatures decently cool/quiet. A custom loop will be hugely expensive ($500+ easily for the entire thing) and time consuming, but it will cool the best, look the best, and be the quietest (depending on how you create the loop).
   
3. Return them and get something like a 295x2 + 290x, or a pair of 290xs and AIO water coolers for them.
   
   Edit: not to repeat myself, I don't really see many other options here. There are only so many ways to deal with heat with cards packed that closely together.
   

For my install i used the following:

https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-Bracket-Cooling-RL-KRG10-W1/dp/B00ITTFNW4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468265285&sr=8-1&keywords=kraken+g10

Linked the white one but there is black, red and blue for a small increase in price.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Quiet-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B009VV56TY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468265342&sr=8-1&keywords=h55

https://www.amazon.com/Gelid-Solutions-GC-Extreme-Compound-TC-GC-03-/dp/B002P5W4RU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468265363&sr=8-1&keywords=gelid

Here is the list of compatible water coolers if you want to hunt for a cheaper or different option than the h55:

https://www.nzxt.com/products/kraken-g10-white

The EVGA hybrid option is now available as well:

http://www.evga.com/Products/Product.aspx?pn=400-HY-5188-B1

This option is aesthetically nice and clean but at $120+plus and tax and shipping it's pretty expensive.

I can post pics of mine soon. Install is pretty straight forward, it can feel a bit nerve-racking at times taking a gpu apart but it's not as bad as you would think.

As kentbrodie said, you do not want to skimp in power wattage, mostly since you are using a i7-7700k AND a GTX 1080, both of which can be overclocked pretty well (depending on the silicon lottery). I usually recommend people to get at least a 600W on a Gaming PC, and no more than a 750W unless you are planning to do some HEAVY workstation work or SLI/Crossfiring. Also... you don't have a lot of good quality options in your market, if you were in the US, you'd have better options. I was looking for a PSU that is 80+ Gold for power efficiency, and Semi/Full Modular to give you more room in your ITX case.

Air Coolers are better price/performance. A Cryorig H7 is AMAZING for it's price (remember to use the thermal compound that it comes with). If you really want to use a liquid cooler, you can get a Corsair Hydro H100i v2, but it really isn't necessary.

I really just chose a different GTX 1080 in the ITX case to give you more room to build around.

Also note: That Phanteks Enthoo EVOLV ITX case can use:

Front

• 2 x 120/140mm fan
  
• 1 x 200mm fan
  
  Top
  
  
• 2 x 120/140mm fan
  
  Rear
  
  
• 1x 120/140mm fan
  
  I personally like Noctua (Rated , Phanteks (Phanteks PH-F140SP_BK_BLED <3 <3), and be quiet! I do have 1 Corsair AF120 currently in my case, and it isn't bad either. But to each their own, you can do some research on case fans before you buy them.

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Description|I present to you my latest Build in the gorgeous Corsair Crystal 570X!⤶It's a Corsair themed RGB Build featuring a Ryzen 7 2700 @ 3.9GHz and a Zotac RTX 2070 AMP Edition @ 2040MHz. ⤶⤶DETAILS AND BENCHMARKS ON PCPARTPICKER: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/t9YTwP⤶⤶One of the fastest and most reliable ways to get Parts is with Amazon Prime! Get a 30 Day Free Trial now!:⤶ US: https://amzn.to/2TuQB44⤶ Germany: http://www.amazon.de/primegratistesten?tag=l2ptink3r-21⤶Need some simplistic and stylish basics? https://represent.com/store/l2ptink3r-apparel⤶⤶-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------⤶⤶Parts (Affiliate Links, you support me by buying over one of the Links!):⤶AMD Ryzen 7 2700: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2RSusv4] [US:https://amzn.to/2DlmJ36] [UK: https://amzn.to/2I40qon]⤶⤶Corsair H60 (2018) 120mm Liquid Cooler: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2BtoFXf] [US: https://amzn.to/2WV1HRS] [UK: https://amzn.to/2DlnsRS]⤶⤶Asus ROF STRIX B450-F: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2DoLnjF] [US: https://amzn.to/2WV33vW] [UK: https://amzn.to/2BvQSNd] ⤶⤶Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 16GB 3000MHz: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2SlX0SC] [US: https://amzn.to/2WSbLv8] [UK: https://amzn.to/2SniFK5]⤶⤶Samsung 970 Evo 250 GB M.2-2280 SSD:⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2tikZ64] [US: https://amzn.to/2GzWvgC]⤶⤶Seagate Barracuda 2 TB 3.5" 7200RPM: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2BxwxXP] [US: https://amzn.to/2tj8YNL] [UK: https://amzn.to/2HZjPXs] ⤶⤶Zotac RTX 2070 AMP Edition: ⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2GiaxUN] [US: https://amzn.to/2GziaFR] [UK: https://amzn.to/2THDuN4] ⤶⤶Corsair Crystal 570X RGB ATX Mid Tower:⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2Srqajv] [US: https://amzn.to/2tgMSvw] [UK: https://amzn.to/2UUpQGH] ⤶⤶be quiet! Pure Power 10 CM 600W:⤶[DE: https://amzn.to/2HZmwbw] [US alternative: https://amzn.to/2tinbKQ] [UK: https://amzn.to/2UPdv6z]⤶⤶Corsair SP120 RGB: [DE: https://amzn.to/2RPlyOF] - [UK: https://amzn.to/2SpEBo6]⤶⤶-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------⤶You're interested in me building you a PC aswell and live in Germany? DM me, where ever you want! :D⤶IG: https://www.instagram.com/l2ptink3r/ ⤶Twitter: https://twitter.com/l2pTink3r_Jonny⤶⤶-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------⤶⤶MY RIG: ⤶YT: https://youtu.be/XN-H_yHpjwU⤶PCPP: https://pcpartpicker.com/b/7cYTwP⤶⤶MY SETUP:⤶ASUS PB277Q 1MS WQHD Monitor: ⤶https://amzn.to/2Bcvdc3 / https://amzn.to/2Lbd8zs / https://amzn.to/2Bt6ujH⤶Razer Tresher 7.1 Headset: ⤶https://amzn.to/2BbP9eT / https://amzn.to/2PzqtSE / https://amzn.to/2Rdhr2Y⤶Razer Leviathan Soundbar: ⤶https://amzn.to/2C7SXzH / https://amzn.to/2QN2tjH / https://amzn.to/2Bxn8yR⤶Razer Blackwidow Chroma X (I fucking adore this Keyboard, check it out!): ⤶https://amzn.to/2SGGyYX / https://amzn.to/2QsxWZo / https://amzn.to/2R9rUw5⤶Razer Taipan Mouse: ⤶https://amzn.to/2zW4uAt / https://amzn.to/2PzKMQe / https://amzn.to/2EEGjdZ⤶⤶-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------⤶1. Track: Bach: C Major Prelude⤶⤶2.Track: Sub Urban - Cradles [NCS Release]⤶Music provided by NoCopyrightSounds.⤶Watch: https://youtu.be/Hn4sfC2PbhI⤶Free Download / Stream: http://ncs.io/CradlesYO⤶⤶3.Track: Cartoon - Why we lose (feat. Coleman Trapp) [NCS Release]⤶Music provided by NoCopyrightSounds.⤶Watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zyXmsVwZqX4⤶Free Download / Stream: http://ncs.io/whywelose

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GET THIS MOTHERBOARD INSTEAD AS IT HAS A WAY BETTER VRM THAT CAN HANDLE A 3950X OC https://www.amazon.com/Asus-Prime-X570-P-Ryzen-Motherboard/dp/B07SW925DR/ref=sr_1_1?crid=UOR2QTMTWTID&keywords=asus+x570p&qid=1572971920&sprefix=asus+x570+%2Caps%2C358&sr=8-1

OR THIS IF YOU NEED WIFI

https://www.amazon.com/ASUS-TUF-X570-Plus-Motherboard-Lighting/dp/B07SXF8GY3/ref=sr_1_2?crid=UOR2QTMTWTID&keywords=asus+x570p&qid=1572971920&sprefix=asus+x570+%2Caps%2C358&sr=8-2

RYZEN IS NOTORIOUS FOR HAVING ISSUES WITH CORSAIR RAM SO GET ONE OF THESE INSTEAD

https://www.amazon.com/G-Skill-Ripjaws-PC4-28800-CL16-19-19-39-F4-3600C16D-16GVKC/dp/B07X8DVDZZ/ref=sr_1_5?crid=2XCCYAGMPGNW6&keywords=ddr4+3600&qid=1572972012&sprefix=DDR4+3600%2Caps%2C381&sr=8-5

OR

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WVT8SGF/ref=dp_cerb_2

SSD

https://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-Rocket-Internal-Performance-SB-ROCKET-1TB/dp/B07KGMBCKD/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=NVME%2BSSD&qid=1572972195&s=electronics&sr=1-6&th=1

THAT BEQUIET PSU IS WAY OVERPRICED GET THIS INSTEAD

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0650-Y1/dp/B01LYGFRL6/ref=sr_1_1?crid=FGOJGR74XJKV&keywords=evga+650w&qid=1572972243&sprefix=EVGA+6%2Caps%2C369&sr=8-1

GPU WISE WHY ARE YOU GETTING A 2060S, IF ITS FOR RTX THEN PLS DONT, MY 2080 SUCKS AT RTX.

https://www.amazon.com/Gigabyte-Graphics-256-Bit-Gv-R57XTGAMING-OC-8GD/dp/B07W95D5V3/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1FK3863HZDJT1&keywords=5700+xt&qid=1572972451&s=electronics&sprefix=57%2Celectronics%2C364&sr=1-5

GET THE 5700XT AS IT PERFORMS CLOSER TO THE 2070S FOR THE SAME PRICE (THIS ONE IS 10$ CHEAPER)

COOLER WISE,

IF YOU WANT AN AIO THIS ONE IS BETTER

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Liquid-Cooler-Cooling-400-HY-CL28-V1/dp/B01N16CAKN/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1OCFL4DYDBT86&keywords=evga+clc+280&qid=1572972539&sprefix=EVGA+CL%2Caps%2C345&sr=8-1

I'D PERSONALLY STICK WITH THE WRAITH PRIZM AS THERE IS NO NEED TO UPGGRADE UNLESS YOU WANT THAT SWEET 4.4GHZ OC. IF YOU WANT TO OC GET THE COOLER ABOVE

IF YOU WANT AN AIR COOLER, GET THIS

https://www.amazon.com/NOCTUA-NH-D15-chromax-Black-Dual-Tower-Cooler/dp/B07Y3CTQNT/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1QU9QXYJISXDX&keywords=noctua+nh-d15+ltt&qid=1572972675&sprefix=noctua+nh-d15+L%2Caps%2C338&sr=8-3

IF YOU LIVE NEAR A MICROCENTER YOU CAN GET WAY BETTER DEALS THERE.

Eh, it's more like they gave you a cheap cooler. It's probably ok, but as you can see you're hitting the max temps in some situations (100C).

Depends on what you want to spend really. Noctua is considered the best for air coolers.

This is like the most popular noctua model I think:

https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK

And then there are all in one (AIO) water coolers for $100 (but noctua is on par with them and beats many of them). Here is the one I have for my 9900k:

https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Liquid-Cooler-Cooling-400-HY-CL28-V1/dp/B01N16CAKN/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=evga+clc+280&qid=1574222298&sr=8-1

There are definitely cheaper options that should be solid especially if you're not going to be pushing an overclock and all that. I'm not an expert on coolers but if you search 'cpu cooler 9700k' on /r/buildapc you can probably find a lot of good recommendations.

Be quiet is good, but at that price you might as well go for the Corsair H100i. Intel processors generally run hot the 8700k specifically can run high temps when gaming. I dont see how an air cooler would be better than a water cooler. In general water transfers heat better than air.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CW-9060025-WW-Radiator-Advanced-Lighting/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522512787&sr=8-1&keywords=Corsair+H100i+v2

Either way if you really want to do air cooling be quiet would be a great choice. I'm not trying to push you in either direction just trying to put my .02, At the end of the day it's whatever you're happy with.

Built an SG13/2700X/2080 back in March and I absolutely love it. Here are a few suggestions from my experience:

• If you don't mind only using one fan, you can fit the thicker H80iv2 for better cooling.
  
• I purchased a Noctua NF-A9x14 and set it up as a secondary exhaust as seen here (not my picture).
  

• SFX PSU with a vented ATX to SFX bracket made building easier while improving airflow.
  

  
  

  Bonus: Buy the pink version of the case to assert your dominance in a field of monochrome cases.
  

  
  

  Here is my build:
  

  
  

  PCPartPicker Part List
  

  
  

  Type|Item|Price
  

  ----|:----|:----
  CPU | AMD - Ryzen 7 2700X 3.7 GHz 8-Core Processor | Purchased For $280.00
  CPU Cooler | Corsair - H80i v2 70.69 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | Purchased For $85.00
  Motherboard | Asus - ROG Strix B450-I Gaming Mini ITX AM4 Motherboard | Purchased For $120.00
  Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | Purchased For $175.00
  Storage | ADATA - XPG SX8200 960 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | Purchased For $153.00
  Video Card | EVGA - GeForce RTX 2080 8 GB XC GAMING Video Card | Purchased For $710.00
  Power Supply | Corsair - SF 600 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply | Purchased For $150.00
  Case Fan | Noctua - NF-A9x14 29.72 CFM 92 mm Fan | Purchased For $16.00
  Case Fan | Noctua - NF-A12x25 PWM 60.1 CFM 120 mm Fan | Purchased For $30.00
  Custom | Makerfire 2pcs 2.4G 5.8G FPV TX Antenna RP-SMA Male Dipole Whip FPV Antenna for FPV Multicopter Racing Drone Quadcopter | Purchased For $13.00
  Custom | SilverStone Technology SFX to ATX Power Supply Adapter in Black PP08B-USA | Purchased For $10.00
  Custom | SilverStone Technology Ultra Small Form Factor Computer Case Mini-ITX in Pink SG13P | Purchased For $62.00
  | Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
  | Total | $1804.00
  | Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-07-12 11:28 EDT-0400 |
  
  
  Edit: Had to update my PCPartPicker build.

I love the build, but there's one thing I'd definitely change and one thing you might want to look into changing:

The Hyper 212 Evo is a decent cooler, but I have some serious reservations that it can keep up with an HEDT processor, especially a 12-core. Nearly any AIO water cooler will do a better job, but this is the one I use on my 9900K.

The "maybe" change is much more straightforward: For the price, your 860 Evo is a good SSD, but you could have much faster storage for the same price by going with something like a 660p NVMe. This would also help offset some of the change in price to get an AIO water cooler.

Other than that, this is an excellent build! It's basically the HEDT version of my 9900K/Z390 Taichi Ultimate/RTX 2080 Ti build called KAIOKENxTEN, which I use for gaming and video editing. You won't be disappointed.

I would recommend changing out the WD Blue drive for a WD Black for the bit of performance increase over the Blue series.
Maybe try looking into going for a all-in-one water cooling solution like the Corsair H100i v2, though it has a significant price increase over the Hyper 212 EVO, for a build with a large budget, water cooling would be a good idea.
Other than that, it doesn't look bad, nice build OP.

2200 build list
CPU- http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Boxed-I7-6700K-Processor-BX80662I76700K/dp/B012M8LXQW/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458134248&sr=1-1&keywords=i7+6700k
Price- $410

\Motherboard- http://www.amazon.com/MAXIMUS-VIII-HERO-ALPHA-Motherboards/dp/B017RI8UYA/ref=sr_1_19?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458134314&sr=1-19&keywords=lga+1151+motherboard
Price- $300

PSU- http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-120-G1-0750-XR/dp/B00K85X2A2/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138651&sr=1-4&keywords=Psu&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
Price- $90

GPU- http://www.amazon.com/EVGA-GeForce-Cooling-Graphics-06G-P4-1996-KR/dp/B00Z0UX8TA/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138400&sr=1-5&keywords=gtx+980+ti
Price- $700

250 GB SSD- http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-2-5-Inch-Internal-MZ-75E250B-AM/dp/B00OAJ412U/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138522&sr=1-1&keywords=SSd
Price- $90

500gb M.2 SSd- http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-850-EVO-3-5-Inch-MZ-N5E500BW/dp/B00TGIW1XG/ref=sr_1_5?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138908&sr=1-5&keywords=m.2+ssd
Price- $160

You can use either option they are both good but the M.2 is my recomendation

RAM- http://www.amazon.com/G-SKILL-TridentZ-PC4-24000-Platform-F4-3000C15D-16GTZ/dp/B017QI1V74/ref=sr_1_9?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138836&sr=1-9&keywords=ddr4+3000
Price- $120

CPU Cooler- http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Hydro-Liquid-Cooler-CW-9060010-WW/dp/B009VV56TY/ref=sr_1_8?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458138978&sr=1-8&keywords=cpu+cooler
Price- $110

3 TB HDD- http://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Desktop-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000DM003/dp/B005T3GRNW/ref=sr_1_2?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1458139072&sr=1-2&keywords=hdd
Price- $90

My favorite gaming keyboard but its up to you. It doesn’t have any fancy side buttons just a great feel and excellent build quality- http://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-Mechanical-Gaming-Keyboard/dp/B00CD1FC6G
Price- $150

total $2130 without the case or windows or optical drive

let me know where it is you would like to go fro here? Is there anything you want to add or take out we can revise this build a couple of times

Hey, I'm looking to upgrade my Intel i7 860 (Quad core, 2.8GHz) FINALLY after 8 years. But wondering if I really need to for the performance I'm looking for (Switching to 144Hz 1080p from 60Hz)

My question is, for the games I'm currently playing (Overwatch, PUBG, Heroes of the Storm, CS:GO) I'm running all of these at 60Hz fine, but I'm looking to finally make the transition to 144hz. Will my processor hold me back?

I have a pretty much stock motherboard from a HP pre-built I had. Would this MoBo take to overclocking fine? I'm not looking to rag the thing, but I think I should be able to push the thing pretty far with a liquid cooler like this?

Or should I just cave in and drop roughly £250 on a Processor and a new mobo and cooler? Can I get anything worthwhile of an upgrade for that much? Thanks.

> I came to the realization that the PCI slots don't all have the same bandwidth (so I'm hoping this discovery may be a good thing)

It is! You'll now be able to use your SLI more efficiently. Just make sure there's no other damage to the board, but from what you said it seems ok now.



>Now, the big question for me: are these video cards too close together?.

Yeah, the top one is blowing hot air directly onto the PCB of the other one, hindering the top one's cooling and cooking the other. Look into getting them watercooled. I would stop using SLI until then if I were you.



>And a follow-up question: does anyone know of a better CPU fan than this.

Yes.



BONUS

This case is pretty much wife-proof especially if you swap out it's mesh top panel for a plexiglass one. Those are kinda hard to find but not impossible. Coolermaster may sell them directly.

My anti-virus is blocking the cloudflare link, but from what I understand +65% is a pretty reasonable expectation. If you could run at the same clock speed then AVX-512 would be twice as fast,
and when you account for the downclock that accompanies AVX-512 then 2x dropping to ~1.65x seems to be pretty close. Yes you need a good cooling system, but if I were to build an AVX-512 system this will be very minor part of the total cost (I tentatitively priced out a i9-7940x with full 128gb of ram, the original vega designed for computing, and accessories, and was looking at ~$4k or so. I have to imagine that something like this would handle it and at $140 is literally only ~3-4% of the total cost).

(note: the bus width with AVX-512 is also doubled relative to AVX-2, so your I/O time doesnt increase in terms of % of total time).

I've been looking at LGA 1366 and here's what I came up with:

Processors: 2 x six core Xeon X5650 for a total of 12 cores https://www.ebay.com/itm/Intel-Xeon-X5650-2-66-GHz-Six-Core-SLBV3-AT80614004320AD-Processor-w-Grease/222402472233 -- total price w/ shipping $80

RAM: 2x16GB ECC for a total of 32GB RAM https://www.amazon.com/Timetec-SUPERMICRO-1866MHz-PC3-14900-Registered/dp/B00VVYCS04/ -- total price w/ shipping $225

MOBO: ASUS Z8NA-D6 https://www.aliexpress.com/item/original-motherboard-ASUS-Z8NA-D6-LGA-1366-DDR3-Dual-1366-Server-Board-Desktop-mainboard-Free-shipping/32831393038.html -- total price w/ shipping $140

CPU cooling: 2 x Corsair CW-9060010-WW Hydro Series H55 Quiet Edition Liquid CPU Cooler https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CW-9060010-WW-Hydro-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B009VV56TY/ -- total price w/ shipping $120

Graphics card: ASUS GeForce GTX 560Ti 1GB bought previously for about $30. Might eventually buy a better graphics card but not right now.

PSU: Corsair HX 650W PSU bought and used for a previous build.

Computer chassis: Fractal Design Define R5 Titanium bought and used for a previous build.

Total cost of components to buy: $565

However, I would also like to overclock the processors to 4 GHz and from what I've read about the only dual socket LGA1366 mobo with overclocking settings in its BIOS is EVGA Classified SR-2 and it's quite an expensive mobo. https://www.ebay.com/itm/EVGA-Classified-SR-2-LGA-1366-Socket-B-Intel-270-WS-W555-A1-BITCOIN-MINING/263522255945. Total price w/ shipping for the SR-2 is $600.

Then the total cost of components to buy would come to $1025. Would the build be worth it with the SR-2 or would I be better off with something else entirely? Also, would the cooling I've listed be sufficient for OCing this build?

On one hand the SR-2 has a lot of room for adding more GPUs in the future -- up to four graphics cards! On the other hand I might end up never getting more than one or two graphics cards anyway.

The EVGA 1080 "FTW Hybrid". It has a self-contained liquid cooler built in, and a fan+radiator that can replace a rear fan on your PC.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LHYIFE0/

I like self-contained liquid coolers because while I can rewire a house like a badass, plumbing and me have agreed to disagree.

The EVGA monitoring/overclocking software is pretty nice too. The GPU sits at about 30c idle, and I haven't really stressed it yet. I probably won't overclock much as I prefer quieter PCs over 3% speed improvements ;)

Hey Brother,

A few points of interest. You are cooling a 6700k and even that baby will get hot with after effects if you start using things like Particular and C4D. You may want to upgrade to a Corsair Liquid Cooler. Liquid can seem scary for a first build, but the H100 series is completely self contained and I have one in my personal gaming rig.

Corsair Cooler Link

A word of caution on your OS, the OEM version of Windows 10 is a completely different license than the full retail version. The OEM versions bind to your build, and cannot be transferred, so If you start swapping out too many parts your license can become invalid. Also there is no Microsoft support with the OEM version, if that means anything to you. I would recommend a full retail version for your first build for sure.

I tend to agree with Emerald, get you a 1070 (if you can find one) get some neat new features with arguably superior performance. That said, if you are wary of buying current gen (completely reasonable) then the Ti will do you just fine.

1070 vs 980Ti Benchmarks

I've gotten it up to 7Ghz on Linux. Windows BSoDs at that point though.
Watercooler

PC SPECS:
Custom Gaming PC


OS
Windows 10 64Bit
Mac OS X Yosemite
(L)(X)(G)Ubuntu 16.04 64Bit

Processor
Intel Core i5-4690K 3.5GHz (Overclocked to 6GHz on Windows & 7GHz on Linux) (Water cooled)
Quad-Core

Chipset
MSI Z97

Memory
16GB DDR3 4x4GB (1600mhz)
Swap/Page
16GB

Storage (Soft-RAID 0 Windows)
1x Sandisk Z400s 256GB SSD (Windows)
1x WD 3TB 7200RPM HDD (RAID 0)
1x Seagate 1TB 7200rpm HDD (RAID 0)
1x WD 1TB 7200rpm HDD (RAID 0)
1x WD 320GB 7200rpm HDD (Linux)
1x Seagate 160GB 7200rpm HDD (Mac OS X Yosemite)
1x Hitachi 7200rpm 1TB HDD (General cross platform storage)

Display
8192 x 4320 (HDMI to 2ms response 27" monitor) (Display Port to 55" 4K Samsung 120hz Smart TV)

Sound
Asus Xonar DG dedicated soundcard (24bit, 96hz, Audio Amp)

Graphics
Intel 4600 HD Graphics (512mb)
2X AMD Radeon R9 390 1GHZ 8GB (Overclocked 10%) (CrossFireX) (2GHZ 16GB VRAM Total)

Extras
Steam Controller
3x Xbox 360 Wireless Controller for Windows
Thrustmaster Ferrari Racing Wheel for PC/PS3
Case LED's with 16 different colors and effects.

The Zalman Z11 can host a 240mm or 280mm radiator on top, which would provide vastly superior cooling for overclocking. I would recommend a 280mm, as they have much more cooling power than 240s. That said, this 240mm is on sale for just over $100, and is from one of the top quality brands. The 280mm version is around $140 right now, but I got it for $110. Prices fluctuate. You could also get this 280mm for $120, which is also from a great brand, but is an older model without the RGB lights of the new one. Both of these are above budget, but that's the price you pay for superior cooling. If you want cheaper options, look on NZXT and Corsair's websites for other options, though I would recommend a 140mm at the least, which you could mount on the front.

You need to change your case/ this is the Best overall build for you just add the deepcool captain 240 rgb v2 cooler for 69$, a set of cable extensions about 30$, I will send the link to both on Amazon, also research using Zen 2 with that motherboard if its compatible https://pcpartpicker.com/list/BcjQDx

You may need an x570 board, or a loaner zen 2 chip, or to contact the seller and ask them to update the bios for you. As far as fans, we’re going to want to go woth Uphere for budget/rgb. This is a good set that will sync with the cases rgb strip


Great fans for the case I picked for you. This is the same rig Im building:
upHere 5V 6-Pack 120mm Silent Intelligent Control 5V Addressable RGB Fan Motherboard Sync, Adjustable Colorful Fans with Controller T3SYC3-6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HK7YRCD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RJR1DbWK3ES45

For cables, order all three for these, the pcie, 24 pin, and CPU 8p : DEEPCOOL EC300-PCI-E-BK Sleeved Cable - Cable Extension for Power Supply, PSU Cable, PSU Connector, Black, 8 PIN, with Comb https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SX4YNRY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nLR1DbXY0T4S8

As far as cable combs: upHere Cable Comb 24 Pieces Set = 24-pin x 4, 8-pin x 12, 6-pin x 8 for 3 mm Cable Gesleeved Up to 3.4 mm/0.13inch- Black(3.4 mm/0.13inch)-CM245 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QM7KBK9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9LR1Db84963KK

And finally, the cpu cooler: DEEPCOOL Captain 240 RGB V2, AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, Anti-Leak Technology Inside, Sync RGB Waterblock and Fans with Cable Controller or MB with 12V 4-pin RGB Header, TR4/AM4 Supported, 3-Year Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QPNP4VP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CMR1Db2VVA6PN

There are a few things that need to be considered when you are experiencing performance issues. The first thing I would do is make sure it isnt just CS:GO. Play another game and see if you experience any performance issues.

If you do not, I would recommend verifying integrity of game files, then restarting your PC and seeing if that does anything.

If you do experience performance issues outside of CS as well, there is a multitude of problems you could be experiencing. Since the 7700k and the 1080 both run hot, you need to make sure you are cooling them properly. If you are running the stock Intel cooler, I wouldn't be surprised if you were thermal throttling your CPU.

Here are 2 great cooling solutions in the case you need to replace the stock Intel cooler:

• AIO (Water Cooling)
  
  
• Heat Sink (Air Cooling)
  
  Just be sure to get a cooler that your motherboard supports (in your case, one that supports Z270)
  
  Other things I can suggest:
  
  
• Reinstalling the game
  
• Cleaning out your case
  
• De-fragmenting hard drive (Not SSD)
  
• Checking for damaged/dead hardware
  
  If you have any other questions, I'd be happy to assist you.
  

You will love it! If you got the same size I have, you can fit a water-cooled cpu radiator as I have done. It is a small fit, but it works! This is the one I have inside my case.

You can also flip it upside down, if you're like me who likes to see the top of the gpu! Totally optional, depends where you put your case. Mine sits nicely in the corner, in this orientation.

Not a bad build at all! I adhere to the RGB philosophy too but make the RGB doesn't get prioritized over part quality especially. Especially with the case.


Two suggestions: 1) Have you considered a full tower? They're great for heat dispersal and for leaving room open for modifying the PC. 2) Personal recommendation for cooling solution is this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XX8Q1CL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I used it in my new RTX 2080 build last week and it's been fantastic. The highest the GPU temp has spiked is 55 C, even when playing modern games on ultra while streaming.

replace the case with one which can take radiators such as this, get a couple of sticks of 8gb ddr3 ram like these get a good aio cooler like this and get an ssd for boot drive like this all of these examples come to $469.93 and out of those a 120gb ssd would still cause a big speed increase and even a decent air cooler would improve the temps situtation.

Hope this helps

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel - Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor | $308.89 @ B&H
CPU Cooler | Corsair - H100i v2 70.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $84.99 @ Newegg
Motherboard | MSI - Z270 TOMAHAWK ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $111.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory | $121.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Crucial - MX300 525GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $159.88 @ OutletPC
Storage | Seagate - Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $66.89 @ OutletPC
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Hybrid Gaming Video Card | $689.99 @ Amazon
Case | Phanteks - ECLIPSE P400S TEMPERED GLASS ATX Mid Tower Case | $99.98 @ Newegg
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $97.49 @ OutletPC
Operating System | Microsoft - Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $89.89 @ OutletPC
Monitor | Dell - S2716DG 27.0" 2560x1440 144Hz Monitor | $449.99 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Corsair - K95 RGB PLATINUM Wired Gaming Keyboard | $169.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Razer - Naga Hex V2 Wired Laser Mouse | $39.99 @ Best Buy
Speakers | Logitech - Z333 40W 2.1ch Speakers | $59.99 @ Amazon
Other| Logitech C922 Pro Stream Webcam| $100.00
Other| Logitech G233 Gaming Headset| $80.00
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $2771.93
| Mail-in rebates | -$40.00
| Total | $2731.93
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2017-07-11 17:19 EDT-0400 |

Over $700 on a 1080 is insane. Get the hybrid: water cooled and air cooled, blower will work as an exhaust as well.
I'm not a Cryorig fan and their customer service is HORRENDOUS. You can get a great AIO cpu cooler right now with prime sales (id legit get it now).
Changed to a nice quite tempered glass case that has light effects. they have different colors so take your pic on newegg.
1440p 144hz monitor w/ gsync
different speakers to save some money, still pretty good quality for 2.1
you can save ~$60 on your SSD if you make it the 260gb one.
you can save ~$40 on your webcam by getting the c920. the c922 is okay for cutting out the background, but I feel youre better off sitting in front of a green screen personally.

> Either way, you'll want a high end cooler if you're overclocking an Intel chip.

[Is this high end enough] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XX8Q1CL?pf_rd_p=faa1d3e1-fadf-4279-ac2d-3096206e4690&pf_rd_r=F5X5G6Q7B0FX3SJG2SC5)?

Looking at reviews it seems to be pretty well regarded. I obviously want performance but I also care about aesthetics of the build. I think this cooler looks really friggin nice and I know performance wise that doesn't matter...but it does matter to me.

Just so you know your motherboard isn’t full rgb. It can change colors but there is. I rgb mode so it will just be orange. I would recommend one of the ROG strix models for your motherboard.

I STRONGLY recommend the ryzen 7 2700X instead of the I7-8700k. It has more cores and threads which will give you much better performance.

Also I would recommend the CORSAIR H100i RGB PLATINUM AIO Liquid CPU Cooler instead of the cooler master one just because of reliability.



https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-H100i-PLATINUM-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B07JWB5BSN/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1550122646&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=corsair+cpu+cooler&psc=1

Liquid cooling is a bit expensive depending on the model you get. The cheapest one costs around $50 or so but they are the older generation but they work fine imo.

The liquid cooling I was talking about is pretty simple to replace. If you ever changed a heatsink on the CPU and the CPU Fan, its pretty much the same as that. This is the liquid cooler i was speaking about Liquid Cooler . You won't have to worry about water damage while installing this unless you break the tube but the tube is made of rubber and not easily broken or detached from the heatsink and fan.

What you see in the image of the link is the only thing that gets installed.

All you need is a screw driver and paper towel to wipe the old thermal paste from the CPU. Also need to make sure the liquid cooler fits your CPU socket by checking what CPU socket the liquid cooler is used for. Example: AMD3, AMD2, AMD1, LGA775, LGA1156, LGA 1136, etc etc.

Just giving you this information.

$130 - Sennheiser HD 599 SE Special Edition, Black

$130 - Sennheiser HD 4.50 Special Edition, Bluetooth Wireless Headphone with Active Noise Cancellation, Black

​

$541 - HKC 34'' (3440x1440p) 21:9 Ultrawide 100hz Curved Freesync VA Panel 8ms GTG Rebranded Viotek GN34C, I think it's a Samsung CF791 Panel

$870 - Samsung LC34J791WTNXZA 34" 3440x1440 100Hz QLED 21:9 VA Freesync Thunderbolt 3

$115 - ViewSonic VX2257-MHD 22 Inch 75Hz 2ms 1080p TN

$650 - Samsung 32" QLED 1440p 144Hz HDR 600 WQHD Curved Gaming Monitor Freesync 2 VA

$315 - LG 27GL650F-B 27" 144hz IPS HDR 10 Freesync

$165 - AOPEN 24HC1QR Pbidpx 23.6" 1080p 144hz 1800R Curved FreeSync 4ms VA

$320 - AOPEN 32HC1QUR Pbidpx 31.5" (2560x1440) 144Hz 1800R Curved VA 4ms Freesync Ships within 1-3 months

$260 - ViewSonic VX3276-2K-MHD 32 Inch 1440p IPS Frameless

​

$270 - AMD Ryzen 7 2700X

$765 - AMD Ryzen Threadripper 2950X

​

$200 - Toshiba X300 8TB Hard Drive 7200 RPM 128MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5 Inch

$120 - Toshiba NAS N300 4TB NAS 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive- SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 128MB

$315 - Toshiba NAS N300 10TB NAS 3.5-Inch Internal Hard Drive- SATA 6 Gb/s 7200 RPM 256MB

$80 - Seagate FireCuda 2TB SSHD 2.5 Inch SATA

$57/96/186 - XPG GAMMIX 256/512GB/1TB S11 Pro 3D NAND PCIe NVMe Gen3x4 M.2 2280 SSD

$106 - Crucial P1 1TB 3D NAND NVMe PCIe M.2 SSD

$107 - Crucial BX500 960GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5-Inch Internal SSD

$242 - Crucial MX500 2TB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch SSD

$104 - Toshiba Canvio Advance 4TB Portable External Hard Drive USB 3.0, White

$120 - WD Elements 6TB USB 3.0 External HDD Color Black WDBWLG0060HBK-NESN

$95 - Samsung 860 EVO 500GB 2.5" SATA III SSD

​

$81 - Ballistix Sport LT 16GB Kit (2x8GB) DDR4 3000 MT/s (PC4-24000) CL15 SR Gray

$137 - Ballistix Elite 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 3600 MT/s (PC4-28800) CL16 SR Ships within 1-2 months

$73 - Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (4x4GB) DDR4 3000 CL16 Black Non-prime, ships within 1-3 months

​

Other Components

$110 - DEEPCOOL Castle 240 RGB Liquid CPU Cooler Non-prime

$170 - Corsair H115i 280mm RGB Platinum AIO Liquid CPU Cooler

$35 - Deepcool RF120 3-Pack 120mm RGB PWM Fans with Fan Hub and Extension Non-prime

$805 - ZOTAC Gaming GeForce RTX 2080 Twin Fan 8GB

$198 - Gigabyte Z390 AORUS PRO ATX Motherboard

$120 - Corsair RM750x 80 Plus Gold Fully Modular ATX PSU CP-9020179-NA

$170 - Corsair HX850i High Performance 80+ Platinum Fully Modular ATX PSU

$60 - Corsair Fan Controller Commander Pro CL-9011110-WW

​

$33 - Logitech G602 Wireless Gaming Mouse

$40 - Logitech G403 Prodigy Wired Gaming Mouse

$50 - Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB Tunable Gaming Mouse

$50 - Razer DeathAdder Elite: True 16,000 5G Optical Sensor

$64 - SteelSeries Rival 600 Gaming Mouse, 12,000 CPI TrueMove3+ Dual Optical Sensor

$55 - Logitech MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse, Graphite Ships within 1-2 months

$22 - NETGEAR 8-Port Gigabit Ethernet Unmanaged Switch

$25 - HyperX Double Shot Black & White Pudding PBT Keycaps - 104 Mechanical Keycap Set for Cherry MX

$30 - Corsair mm350 Anti-Fray Cloth Gaming Mouse Pad Extended XL

$10.50 - SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - Medium Cloth

$23 - SteelSeries QcK Gaming Surface - Medium Hard

$135 - Razer Huntsman: Opto-Mechanical Switch

$55 - Logitech C920 Webcam HD Pro (960-000764)

​

$10.91 - AmazonBasics AAA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (8-Pack) Pre-charged 850mAh

$12.48 - AmazonBasics AAA Rechargeable Batteries (12-Pack) 800mAh

$18.89 - AmazonBasics AA High-Capacity Rechargeable Batteries (8-Pack) Pre-charged 2400mAh

$1.49 - Oreos and other snacks :)

He said he used the PcGamer High end build guide with some changes. He swapped the 1080 to a 1070, the SSD's to a 1TB SSD, he changed the case to a MasterCase Maker 5 Mid-Tower and ordered everything form Amazon

So overall I'm guessing this is his build;

• CPU: Intel Core i7-6700K - $350
  
• GPU: GeForce GTX 1070 - $450
  
• Motherboard: Asus ROG Maximus VIII Hero - $215
  
• Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws 4 Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 - $145
  
• SSD: 1TB Samsung 850 Evo 2.5-inch SATA - $317
  
• CPU Cooler: Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2 240mm AIO - $97
  
• Optical: LG UH12NS30 - $52
  
• PSU: EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2 80 Plus GOLD - $141
  
• Case: MasterCase Maker 5 Mid-Tower Case - $178
  
  Coming to a grand total of 1945$ add shipping to that and you're looking at pretty close to 2 grand.
  
  This build is fucking retarded though.
  
  First of all, you can actually buy a a goddamn prebuilt with almost the same specs for about 400$ cheaper. That HP is just the first one I found, there are dozens of other prebuilts ranging from about 400-100$ cheaper with no real performance loss.
  
  Yeah it's a prebuilt and has bloatware and all that shit, but in terms of performance it's actually pretty much equal to the authors build.
  
  Second, you could just go for a more reasonable part list.
  
  Swap the 6700k to an i5 6500 with the stock cooler and you'll cut 250$ from the price.
  
  Even an i5-6600k with a hyper 212 evo would cost you about 260$, saving almost 200$
  
  Swap the ridiculous motherboard to something decent for about 100-150$ and you're saving another 100$ right there.
  
  32 gigs of RAM is overkill, you could easily go for 16GB DDR4 2400, and save another 70$
  
  Dump the optical drive, who the hell watches BD movies on a PC anyways? If you really need a DVD drive they're like 20$
  
  Swap the ridiculously high end case to something like Fractal Design R5 and save another 50$. R5 is still an excellent and fairly high end case, you could easily go for a 50-80$ mid-tower and save 100$.
  
  I would also swap the 1TB SSD to a 256gb SSD and a 2TB mechanical drive which would be about 160-200$ saving him another 100$. but I can at least understand that someone wants the simplicity of just having a single drive.
  
  With a few simple changes he could save about 450-650$ without losing any performance whatsoever in gaming, and that's without hunting for cheaper prices from somewhere that's not Amazon.
  
  He said he paid about 100$ extra to buy everything from Amazon, so with an updated parts list and using PCpartpicker the price drops down to 1171$ so about 770$ cheaper than the authors build and with no real performance loss.

Repaired :)

Cleared CMOS, reinput settings. Nothing.

I was surprised by the temperatures I was getting even at low speeds, turns out my old Antec H60 was running out of fluid (7 years old, just evaporation I guess, probably through the lines over the years). So I bought one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015E14J9M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That brought temps in line, but it still was running slowly. Turned on then off the hardware EPU switch on the motherboard and then turned off the speed step option, turned off speed boost, and set the mulitplier to 38 everywhere I could in the bios.

It went into Windows at 1.6 GHz again. I finally opened the AI Suite that comes with the board and it was set to "Auto". I changed that one to "Hi Performance" and it took off! (Granted, I had tried this fix prior to the cooler replacement AND prior to the EPU switch shenanigans, so it was a combination of issues)

It now happily skips along at 3.8 GHz and a max of 55C after 2 hours of Prime 95. All is well again :)

Here is a few choices that are available on Amazon in NA. If you need another region lmk.


Best air cooler:

Noctua NH-U14S TR4-SP3 Premium-Grade 140mm CPU Cooler for AMD TR4/SP3 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074DX2SX7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_m3vNDb3XPWMV2

Best bang for $ water cooling option:

Cooler Master MasterLiquid LC240E RGB All-in-one CPU Liquid Cooler with Dual Chamber Pump Latest Intel/AMD Support (MLA-D24M-A18PC-R1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CRGC899/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_l2vNDbW341XNC

If you have space for a 3 fan radiator in your case and a decent amount of $ to throw at your problems lol:

Thermaltake Floe Triple Riing RGB 360 TT Premium Edition PWM TR4 AM4 LGA2066 Ready AIO Liquid Cooling System 360mm CL-W158-PL12SW-A https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07537Q8LV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_X4vNDb880ZDZP

The Corsair h100i v2 is a pretty good cooler. Especially since you have high end components you would want something good. It’s on sale for 30$ off rn on Amazon. I recommend ditching the included fans and replacing them.

Definitely switch around another fan. That might be why

Cooler Master Liquid Cooler

​

This was the liquid cooler i was thinking of buying but I didn't due to people saying that the CPU cooler that comes with the Ryzen 7. Am I going to have to spend more than 100+ to get better cooling with liquid coolers?

I do HVAC on the outside so knowing refrigeration I tend to like liquid cooling more, but I am confused on how they work on computers. (I guess I need to do more research on them) But as far as it being more advanced, how much harder are they to install or incorporate to the build?

​

It is nice to hear that I don't have to worry much about cooling. What software do you recommend in monitoring temps?

Thats a very power hungry chip. You’re gonna want full cooling. Some mini-heatsinks and good airflow would do, but you cannot just run a core waterblock and be done. If watercooling, I actually recommend using an AIO with a NZXT G12 bracket, since it will provide be cheaper than an entire loop, and probably cool the same, since its in direct silicon contact. If you already have a loop though, then go with the waterblock.


For a Universal Waterblock, you need a thermosphere


Thermosphere:
https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-thermosphere-nickel


Heres an AIO
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BYP4Ab7SGPX4A

Heres a G12
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZYHRMYP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_hZP4Ab4JEJC1V

You dont even need 240mm, my 980ti which only draws 25w less than the 390 is perfectly fine on 120mm rad.

Hey bud! Repaste your thermal paste. Another issue to note is that your Cpu fan is directly against your PSU door. No air seems to get in in this setup, I recommend getting watercooled, it's not expensive for a single rad (sadly only a single rad seems to fit). This should definitely fix your issues!

Use this stuff:

https://www.amazon.com/Thermal-Grizzly-Kryonaut-Grease-Paste/dp/B011F7W3LU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519371166&sr=8-1&keywords=kryonaut

edit edit edit I've done it! haha!

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CW-9060024-WW-Extreme-Performance-Liquid/dp/B019954Y2Q/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1519371707&sr=1-1&keywords=h80i

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DOlWxc9tt6s link to video!

Make sure it's the same system for me!

You don't have to thermal repaste with the paste that's on this, you can if you want to. Heck, the paste might even fix the first issue w/o a new cooler. Good luck.

Yep, EVGA CLC 280. Works like a charm, keeps my cpu nice and cool. Also the tubing is braided, which adds a great look and an extra layer of durability. Big fan!

Honestly I’m glad I bought mine, for 330 dollars you get a cpu that’s honestly kickass and an amazing cooler. I just actually bought a deepcool Captain 240ex just cause it’s on sale. 60 bucks on Amazon


DEEPCOOL Captain 240 RGB V2, AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, Anti-Leak Technology Inside, Sync RGB Waterblock and Fans with Cable Controller or MB with 12V 4-pin RGB Header, TR4/AM4 Supported, 3-Year Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QPNP4VP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bTwlDbNQRXRQG

Personally I think the black with white accents would look better with your case, but that's just me. If you aren't having any overheating issues then I'd say just wait, but if you're having trouble you can order it whenever.

EDIT: for that price you could also look into an all-in-one liquid cooler like the Corsair H100i v2. That's the cooler I have on my computer and it looks awesome. (Not sure if you have the mounting on the top of the case for it, but it looks like you have the room for it if you do)

Thank you for helping me out!

1. I’m not sure whether I will aggressively overclock but I’d like to have the option open to me if possible. The only thing I’m worried about for liquid cooling is that I’ve never built a pc before and it seems more challenging. Is this liquid cooler good? https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Liquid-Cooler-Warranty-400-HY-CL28-V1/dp/B01N16CAKN?psc=1&SubscriptionId=AKIAIPHVZTVH6LZ5BFZA&tag=hawk-future-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01N16CAKN&ascsubtag=tomshardware-7836315237735863347-20
   
2. Is this a better motherboard? https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-Z390-LGA1151-Realtek-Motherboard/dp/B07HRZHJ6Z?tag=georiot-us-default-20&ascsubtag=tomshardware-1081566733816162327-20
   
3. I think I’m comfortable with the extra money for the 2080 as long as I’m not losing out on any newer features.

You can buy what is called a "closed loop" system, which is basically a factory sealed water cooling block and radiator. They're not as sexy looking as a custom loop like this, but they are a lot safer for folks new to liquid cooling, or for those who don't want the hassle but want the benefits, or like in my case - It's not in a case where it's even really visible, so I was only really concerned with performance, not appearance.

Here is what I use, which happens to be one of the more popular closed loop liquid cooling solutions. Dead simple to install, and works like a champ.

Water cool it!

Otherwise, yeah the bigger the fan the quieter. And Noctua makes some pretty quiet fans. Look for the decibel rating of your existing fan to compare. You could also slow the fan.

Of course, how cool does it have to be and how do you know when it is too hot?

I woke up last Monday morning and had the urge to build a gaming PC out of nowhere. I literally reached over to my phone while laying in bed at 5 AM in the morning and started ordering parts off Amazon and a couple days later here's the finished product. I had 0 PC building experience before this but thankfully Reddit and Google had all the answers I needed.

Specs:

MOBO: ASUS Prime Z370-A II (in case I want to upgrade to a 9th gen)

GPU: EVGA 2070 Super XC Ultra Gaming

Ram: 16GB Corsair Vengeance C15 3000mhz

Storage: 1TB WD_Black NVMe // 1TB Seagate SSHD // 128GB Unknown Brand NVMe (running windows on it)

CPU: Intel i7-8700

CPU Cooler: NZXT Kraken X62 (using the 2 NZXT 140mm fans that came with it as intakes)

PSU: Seasonic FOCUS Plus 850 Gold

Case: H500 (base model)

Rear Fan: NZXT AER RGB 2 120mm (exhaust)

Top Fan: NZXT AER RGB 2 120mm (exhaust)

Top/Bottom LED: NZXT Hue 2 300mm LED Strips

Monitor: Lenovo Legion Y27gq-20 27-inch WLED G-SYNC

Mouse: Logitech G903

Keyboard: Logitech G Pro

Headphones: Logitech G533

Cable Extensions: Asiahorse Customization Mod Sleeve Extension Power Supply Cable Kit

Hello. I am currently in the process of my first pc build, I have a 7700k and am looking to overclock it to a maximum clock speed of 5.0 ghz, perhaps less.

Will this AIO water cooler be sufficient?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J4ZGT88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7CVxzbV1X681K

I understand that this particular cpu tends to run very hot. I'm making a white themed build and this one fits perfectly... but if it's not powerful enough i'm okay with settling with another... what would you recommend?

Also, what are ideal cpu temps while under load? Like what number would be considered dangerous? I'm quite new to all this, so thanks in advance :)

I suggest waiting on a GPU upgrade unless you are super annoyed by your 270X. Polaris (next-gen AMD) appears to be scheduled for late spring or early summer, with Nvidia hopefully keeping up.

You can overclock your 270X for a little extra performance.

https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/wiki/gpu/general

A good way to achieve the best overclock is improving the cooling with a NZXT G10 adapter and Corsair H55 CPU Cooler. Should run you around $100 total and you should be able to keep the cooler and buy a new bracket for your next GPU.

I'd say a Noctua air cooler would be great to cool and minimally overclock the i7. If you plan to seriously overclock it, get liquid cooler to get that extra performance boost whenever you are using video editing software.

PS You don't need an extremely expensive motherboard either unless you need any specific features. Something like this will do for a standard user. Even cheaper ($150) at Microcenter if you have one nearby. 750W is suitable for your build. 850W would be ideal if you planned on getting another GPU to SLI them

No PC component is 100% fail-proof - But I have used them for years without any issue and have not heard many horror stories about leakages. I can safely vouch for them.

Just be careful which one you choose, based on your choice of Case

Very Good Case:- Thermaltake LEVEL 10 GT Super Gaming Modular Full Tower Computer Case


Large 280mm radiator Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme

240mm dual-fan radiator Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2 Extreme

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480803841&sr=8-3&keywords=h80i

Best one. will allow for a huge overclock and still remain it super cool.

If you're going for performance I would definitely choose an AIO. The only air coolers that will surpass them are by Noctua (NH-D15) but won't fit inside the s340.

My top two picks would be:

Corsair H110i v2 240mm AIO $103 (Normally $129, currently discounted on amazon)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019EXSSBG/

NZXT Kraken X31 120mm
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NC05KFK/

You won't get much better cooling than the corsair option at this price point, and I'd definitely say the extra cost over the Kraken is well worth it for the improved performance.

I'm building a new high end pc from the ground up. Should I be taking advantage of any of these sales? I feel like the mouse and power supply are automatic purchases but I'm a newbie so I wanted to see if I can get any help here first. Sorry if this is filling up the discussion post.

SSD

I read that the crucial's aren't good because once you reach 75% capacity it dramatically slows your pc down? Also, don't know if external SSDs are recommended but should I bite on that SanDisk?

Samsung 1TB 860 EVO

Crucial P1 1TB m.2 SSD

SanDisk 1TB Portable External SSD

Power Supply

Corsair RM850x, 850 Watt Gold Certified Fully Modular Power Supply

Cooler

I don't even know if I will need a coouler, and if I want to go liquid cooling route, and I don't care about RGB, but for a high end pc I'm assuming I should buy?


Corsair H115i RGB Platinum AIO Liquid CPU Cooler

Mouse

This seems like the best deal on a mouse no?

Logitech® MX Master 2S Wireless Mouse

RAM

Was actually looking for 32GB RAM, should I pass since if I go AMD mobo route, having to use more than 2 will cause a slowdown right?

Ballistix Elite 16GB Kit (8GBx2) DDR4 3600 MT/s

O dear god. Got a picture of the inside of the case? Intel states that the max safe temp is 103C. You should be worried prob after 90c. Stock cooler? #yes
If yes buy new one. On a budget? Hyper 212 EVO if not grab a Corsair pre filled water cooler like an H60 or better H100i

Really solid build for the performance you're looking for.

I know that RX480 hasn't been released yet and there's no benchmarks besides a few leaks, but I'm pretty sure its going to be able to pull of 1080p at 60fps with almost any game, so you're probably good there.

So yeah, don't really see any problems or shortcomings with your second build.

If you want, you could try water cooling your CPU with a Corsair H100i v2 or a NZXT Kraken x61.

Other than that, really nice build you got there. Kinda jealous.

GREAT so they do work! thanks for the help bro. Can you also link me some red cables for my cpu cooler on amazon?
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B019EXSSBG/ref=ox_sc_act_image_5?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1

Yes. So I just discovered the difference between 12v and 5v rgb setups. I bought an 12v RGB AIO which will clearly not work with the Hue+. I like the AIO and don't want to spend an additional $50 for the ARGB version which is 5v so I bought the Cooler Master 12v RGB controller to support the AIO I bought. So my question has now changed.

If I buy the Deep Cool RGB converter to go from 12v to 5v, can I use the NZXT led strips on the converter and just ditch the Hue+ controller?

Below are the parts I currently have (excluding the Hue+)

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-240-V2-Technology-Waterblock/dp/B07QPNP4VP/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=deepcool+aio&qid=1566488231&s=electronics&sr=1-3

https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MFY-P4DC-153PC-R1-MasterFan-Controller/dp/B075S8RC9B/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=cooler+master+controller&qid=1566488259&s=electronics&sr=1-4

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-GH-01-Addressable-Controlled-Motherboard/dp/B07N1CD36Y/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=gpu+support&qid=1566488352&s=electronics&sr=1-8

This is the 12v to 5v converter I was looking at:

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-Convertor-Transfer-Motherboard-Products/dp/B07QPYSC82

I recommend it because even though I haven’t tried it myself, it is considered one of the best X399 motherboards by several trusted reviewers. After some research, I have found that the cooler I chose will not be appropriate for that CPU and I am working on fixing that, here is a better one that is compatible.

Edit: Here is a review

If your going to overclock then I would strongly suggest liquid cooler, but if you arn't then air cooling and liquid cooling are about the same. But if you want the best thermals possible I would go liquid cooling.

Here's a good one: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Radiator-Advanced-Lighting-Software/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1541819608&sr=1-4&keywords=aio+cooler

Hi my name is Cornnut. Thank you for passing on some of your wealth to the rest of us.

I would like a GTX 1080 FTW for my PC. It's $729.99 on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LHYIFE0/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_4lDgyb1B2501F

CPU: Ryzen 5 2600X

• Price (USD): $148
  
  
• Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Ryzen-Processor-Wraith-Cooler/dp/B07B428V2L/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=2600x&qid=1561412302&s=gateway&sr=8-1&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=d4031aa5541bae8e2e27667d13360718&language=en_US
  
  
  GPU 1: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2060 Super GAMING OC
  
  
• Price (USD): $399
  
  
• Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/GIGABYTE-GeForce-Graphics-Windforce-GV-N206SGAMING/dp/B07TS5BQ2R/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YRCKWXWPB4HZW6NGDW9J&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=0cf252f82dc198b5591a7c4debd14b4c&language=en_US
  
  
  Motherboard: MSI B450 Tomahawk
  
  
• Price (USD): $110
  
  
• Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/MSI-Crossfire-Motherboard-B450-Tomahawk/dp/B07F7W5KJS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ref_=Oct_BSellerC_1048424_1&pf_rd_p=5346f542-acf9-55ea-9653-814f56b392c6&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-6&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_i=1048424&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=NW0EXEJ3DQ2W0GHBD57K&pf_rd_r=NW0EXEJ3DQ2W0GHBD57K&pf_rd_p=5346f542-acf9-55ea-9653-814f56b392c6&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=ae8e62c377988d3accac2dca5107c939&language=en_US
  
  
  RAM: (2x8GB) Corsair Vengeance LPX 3600
  
  
• Price (USD): $75
  
  
• Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-PC4-28800-Desktop-Memory/dp/B07RM39V5F/ref=as_li_ss_tl?keywords=ddr4+3600&qid=1566517147&s=electronics&sr=1-3&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=7de8b324875d25f46d235cdd954cc541&language=en_US
  
  
  Storage: Empty Storage
  
  
• Price (USD): $0
  
  
• Amazon Link: null
  
  
  Power Supply: Corsair RM750x
  
  
• Price (USD): $119
  
  
• Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/d/Computer-Power-Supplies/CORSAIR-RM750x-Certified-Modular-Supply/B079HGN5QS/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1545862633&sr=8-1&keywords=rm750x&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=897f53a4be69e54217b663c7310f02c2&language=en_US
  
  
  Case: DeepCool MATREXX 70 RGB
  
  
• Price (USD): $99
  
  
• Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/3F-Pre-Installed-Supported-One-Touch-Release-All-Round/dp/B07QL7NF5C/ref=as_li_ss_tl?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=5D0NEWPMJY4RVFZPPF1F&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=429f2b7c86a9320cbb266fe9c69dfbd2&language=en_US
  
  
  CPU Cooler: Cooler Master MasterLiquid LC240E RGB
  
  
• Price (USD): $74
  
  
• Amazon Link: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterLiquid-Chamber-MLA-D24M-A18PC-R1/dp/B07CRGC899/ref=as_li_ss_tl?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1545863217&sr=1-1&keywords=masterliquid+ml240l+rgb&linkCode=ll1&tag=buildcoresx-20&linkId=179946e948084ef3ee66f9eda583fbf9&language=en_US
  
  
  Monitor: Empty Monitor
  
  
• Price (USD): $0
  
  
• Amazon Link: null
  
  
  Generated by BuildCores on 2019-11-07

Yeah, I’ll probably go to a shop and look for another cooler and if I don’t find anything I’ll just get one from amazon. I was thinking of maybe ordering this one if I dont find anything. It’s a liquid cooler but at this point the difference doesn’t matter to me. It mentions the AM4 socket, so I imagine it’s fine, right?

Also, yes I had already updated the bios of my motherboard so that should be fine as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484706868&sr=8-1&keywords=AIO+cooler i would say something like that would do the job, but then again, are you even planning to overclock that cpu ? cuz if not you would be okay with stock cooler or atleast something like evo 212 where you would save up 70usd ish .

Well if you save the money on the SSD and PSU, and swap out that cooler for this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=twister_B0128CE0JE?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 at $104, you could over clock that with no issue, as the radiator supplies a great amount of cooling for it's size and price. You can up for the larger fan size if you like, all really depends on how how you're trying to overclock.

The h100i v2 is a all in one for the cpu only.

You can get adapters for the gpu, but the included cooler will work fine. get something like this https://www.nzxt.com/products/kraken-g12-white

and a liquid cooler like this for the gpu https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Extreme-Liquid-Cooling-CLW0224-B/dp/B00O08FWTM/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522296820&sr=1-4&keywords=240mm+aio(you need the ones with the connection like that for the block)

here is my most recent build

waited like 3-4 years for an upgrade and replaced everything but PSU, GPU, and HDDs.

Could look a bit better but i had no zip ties and didn't want to cut any wires. also a non-modular PSU.

and now i am getting coil noise from PSU :'(

not really sure i could do to make it look any better other than a new PSU with plug in ports like these sexy guys




parts links:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EB6O4N8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CRJSXR4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KPRWAX8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009VV56TY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.asus.com/Graphics_Cards/ENGTX560_Ti_DCII_TOP2DI1GD5/

Lol that figures. If you can fork up just a little more cash, I would consider this

That’s what I use. Nice and cool, super quiet.

It's probably for the best as a 212 would be a pretty bad cooler for a 6 core processor. For a processor that beastly, I would recommend a higher end air cooler like the Dark Rock Pro 3 or Noctua DH-15 or looking into an AIO cooler like the H100i.

I do have an SSD, and I appreciate your advice immensely! If it is not to much trouble, could you explain overclocking briefly? Would it be worth it to improve online gaming performance? If so, should I invest in a cheap water cooled heatsink? Like this one?

Do you have any suggestions as to how I could look into thermal throttling in my PC? I am looking at swapping my stock cpu fan for the following; Corsair CW-9060025-WW Hydro Series H100i V2 240 mm Extreme Performance All-In-One Liquid CPU Cooler - Black https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Hmt.ybM9QB2M8

The CPU cooler is now the only one to be swapped out. I have 3 120mm case fans on at all times with the GPU able to power up 2 additional case fans when the GPU reaches a certain temp, as well as the built-in 3 GPU fans.

I'll be sure to check my PUBG video settings tomorrow to mirror yours and see what it says. I have removed the ini files in the past but will be sure to do that again tomorrow also.

Thanks for your advice!

Any AIO would do the job, or at least an AIO with good reviews. I'm sure the Hyper EVO 212 would technically still cool it well enough but you'll probably be running at only what most consider standard temps instead of "cool" temps when under load. These two AIOs have good reviews both here on this subreddit and in their reviews on the sites that sell them. Both cost the cost the same and are equal in size for the radiation I believe. I'm not entirely sure if ryzen chips need special brackets but from what I have read it seems the Corsair doesn't come with one, meaning you have to order it off their site after the fact. The EVGA does come with a bracket apparently and it's letters are RGB configurable.

EDIT: Saw a review that says the Corsair also comes with the brackets needed for ryzen chips.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsair-hydro-series-240mm-liquid-cpu-cooler-black-gray/7313029.p?skuId=7313029&cmp=RMX&extStoreId=1140&ref=212&loc=1&ksid=31c5daf3-9d1e-429c-9c98-d1fd4e36b5c1&ksprof_id=8&ksaffcode=pg199274&ksdevice=m&lsft=ref:212,loc:2

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074WH52BW/

To be quite honest, I dont know. I will figure out how to check when I get home. When I load up BDO it does ask me to select a GFX card.

I figured that, I was told it was normal and the intel chip has built in over heating protection but that didnt sound right to me. I dont know how to install a new fan but I could probably figure it out with some videos. Do you think this would be sufficient? https://www.amazon.com/RL-KRX62-02-Cooling-Software-Controlled-Lighting/dp/B06XX8Q1CL

I will definitely reapply thermal paste once I learn how to remove and readd.

If there is another dual channel (idk if there is) would I be okay with adding the third stick? If there isnt I will try to return through new egg.

Server before a recent upgrade

Server before a recent upgrade

My old system was rather simple and straight forward. It was a dual Xeon workstation motherboard (standard ATX) installed in a Rosewill 4U Server Chassis. The center rail perfectly fit the radiators of two Corsair H55s. The bracket works extremely well for the LGA1366.

Server after a hasty upgrade (not finished)

Center Rail

Back

Front

I upgraded my system about two weeks ago. Not finished yet - but it's functional. Since the new motherboard was an oversized EATX (13.2 x 13 inches) - I had to modify the case to get everything to fit. I noticed with 18 sticks of memory, the heat was a bit higher than the previous build. So, I have the radiators sandwiched with fans on both sides. This increased the airflow significantly and the fans are 120mm, so rather quiet.

However, with the fan sandwich, the center rail needed to be pushed back 1.5 inches. In the photo, I only pushed the rail back one inch so far. One of the sandwiches fit (the rear one), but you will notice that the one closest to camera isn't yet fitting. So, I need to pull everything out and drill new holes a half inch closer to the front.

The other thing I didn't realize is that when mounting standard ATX power supplies with an EATX motherboard, the chassis will need to have the power supply suspended above the motherboard and not on the side. You will see that the motherboard takes up a portion of the area where the power supply should go. So, I cut a hole above the i/o plate and moved the power supply mounting bracket that came with the case. Surprisingly, it holds extremely well and has nearly 1 inch of clearance between the power supply and one of the CPU water blocks and memory.

I also plan on 3d printing a shroud that will channel the air from the center rail out into the giant hole in the back and adding two 90mm fans as a proper exhaust.

This is a basic AiO with 120mmn radiator. If you have a good air cooler, this is not a worthwhile upgrade. If, on the other hand, you're doing a SFF build or have limited cooler clearance, this will be a good choice.

There appears to be decent stock available at time of posting. Shipping is free to store or $8.99 otherwise.

Also available at Amazon, but $60 (no MIR but free shipping/Prime): https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Hydro-Liquid-Cooler-CW-9060010-WW/dp/B009VV56TY/

That cooler while decent, is pretty small compared to what you should be using nowadays. Getting a better cooler makes SUBSTANTIAL difference. Remember, heat kills.

I suggest either a Noctua D15 or a 240mm AIO at the least if you have the budget.

A couple cheaper but great price to performance coolers I picked out are these:

AIR:

Sycthhe Ninja 5

Noctua D14


BeQuiet DR4



Water:

Coolermaster 240

Deepcool captain 240

Cheap: https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-RR-212E-20PK-R2-Direct-Contact/dp/B005O65JXI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543389016&sr=8-3&keywords=hyper+12+evo

Great liquid cooler: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-Radiator-Advanced-Lighting-Software/dp/B019954Y2Q/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1543389030&sr=8-4&keywords=corsair+liquid+cooling

Great Air cooler: https://www.amazon.com/Noctua-NH-D15-heatpipe-NF-A15-140mm/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=sr_1_4?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1543388981&sr=1-4&keywords=noctua+nh-d15

This is a pretty good deal even though it has a cooler that isn't the greatest.

I'm not sure if the Kraken G10 is compatible with this card, but if it is then you can get that for $40 bucks here

Find the cheapest compatible 120mm radiator and you've got yourself a nice liquid cooled 1080TI.

Regardless it's a better deal than the Vega GPUs.

you're able to push more power from the i9 than from i7 if you know how to overclock and you're giving yourself more power and better temps on the gpu for less money

+

I'd recommend buying all the parts from amazon

CPU: https://www.amazon.com/Intel-i9-9900K-Desktop-Processor-Unlocked/dp/B005404P9I/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=i9+9900k&qid=1569748230&s=gateway&sr=8-3

GPU: https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-RTX-2070-XC-08G-P4-2172-KR/dp/B07J63W42X/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=rtx+2070+super&qid=1569748272&s=gateway&sr=8-4

AiO: https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-H115i-PLATINUM-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B07JWB5BSP/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=h115i+platinum&qid=1569748293&s=gateway&sr=8-1

I wouldn't take the risk with that one. I've never used air cooling so I'm not sure how sure it will keep it, but it is on the cheaper side and the heat sink is pretty small. If you're looking for cheap, good water cooling however, check out the Corsair H100
If that's over your budget, I wouldn't worry too much about over clocking it.. as it won't really effect whether or not you bottle neck.

Hey y'all! I really need help from some S340 Elite owners! I'm really trying to go all out in an RBG build and I'm trying to get as much white hardware as possible and I'm thinking of going for a Deep Cool Captain AIO over the [NZXT Kraken] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XX8Q1CL/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1) But only if I'm able to install the radiator in the front of the case with the fans facing the rest of the build (surprise: I want to replace those fans with more RBG). I heard that the S340 has a problem fitting the radiators first for 280mm, but I'm wondering if I'd have room for the smaller 240mm radiator of the Deep Cool. (I know this is a stupidly specific question, but any help would be appreciated!)

I understand. Maybe go for a less expensive one like this: Corsair H60 for half as much? Have you seen the Prism cooler that comes with the 3700x? It looks pretty cool to me and if you used that you could get extra 2 cores on your processor which would have a lot of value in the future IMO. Just a thought.

Well, not
$300, it's $94 , which is also way too much, especially considering that the 240mm h100i goes for ~$110 and is double that.

Check reviews, I don't know how well the arctic performs to be honest. But those coolers in general are all from the same manufacturer, they simply change the fan(s) and plastics. I chose the Arctic because it's thicker than the H60 (so it will probably perform better) and not that much more expensive.

> If this is the end, is there any thermal paste you'd recommend?

New AIO coolers come with paste preapplied, yes. So you won't need separate new paste.

Is it worth purchasing the 1080 FTW Hybrid and selling off my 1060 6GB? I've been eyeing this card for weeks now and the no tax incentive on Amazon Canada has almost got me to pull the trigger.

My current build is an i5-6500, 1060 6GB, 16GB DDR4-2133 and 550W PSU. My monitor is only capable of 1920x1080 60hz so I know a 1080 is overkill for now.

Well I don't really know how you can sensibly use that whole budget. He's my recommendation for a bit less

Ryzan 7 1800X

Corsair H100i v2

Asus B350-F

Corsair 16GB 3200MHz RAM

So that is the high end Ryzen CPU. With that Mobo you can over clock and the liquid CPU cooler will keep it all cool. The ram is high clock so you get the best out of Ryzen.

also, https://www.amazon.com/Cooler-Master-MasterLiquid-Chamber-MLA-D24M-A18PC-R1/dp/B07CRGC899/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Cooler+Master+MasterLiquid+Lite+ML240L&qid=1554439353&s=gateway&sr=8-1 Cool your CPU, would be great, if your at 900 ish this is around it lol

in my experience the 212 evo does fine for mild overclocking. but if you want a no compromises option then an all-in-one water cooler like the corsair hydro h80i would do the trick.

enthusiasts tend to go overboard on things like coolers and power supplies but thats just cause they enjoy the process and having crazy builds

I nice air cooler (noctua) would be good, provided your case and memory allow for it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00L7UZMAK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_B8gwCbGNW3XQS

This cooler is a decent one and has a good price compared to other 240 AIOs.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CRGC899/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_R6gwCbXGH0EEK

Both of these would have similar performance.

I picked mine up for $450 due to a Best Buy pricing error. And that was considered an insane deal.

Founders Editions are built to NVidia's specifications and standards. Because of this, they're reference models and often used to pattern all sorts of aftermarket hardware.

The downside is the stock cooling set up is a reference blower fan, which is ok with most folks, but it is not the most efficient. Reference blower fans tend to be loud and very warm.

In the case of the FE cards, you can easily find and mount a water block to it.

Mine is fitted with a NZXT bracket and a Corsair AIO. It works quite well. I was pleased with the straightforward installation.

Edit! I will open myself to a brief AMA.

I would get this CPU cooler. With the case you picked (good case) it should fit in there pretty easily.

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478638560&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+h100i+gtx

And this PSU I would get this

https://www.amazon.com/CORSAIR-CX450M-BRONZE-Haswell-Modular/dp/B01B72VXE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478638780&sr=8-1&keywords=corsair+psu+450w

What about GPU? Which do you want? 1070?

Get dual channel memory. Some games (like bf1) do't work well with single channel memory.

Get a smaller power supply, because 850+w for a build with a system draw of 300w is waaaaaa overkill.

As well, if you want liquid cooling, This thermaltake liquid cooler will do a better job at a lower price. Just make sure your case can support it.

Just in case you haven't seen it, the EVGA CLC 280 is on sale for $75 on Amazon. Great cooler at a great price.

Your cooler is probably very similar to the Corsair H80i V2, but without the 2nd fan. People on Amazon have reported being able to cool the 9900K non-OCed with Corsair cooler: Corsair H80i V2 used on 9900K

That seems to imply you could be ok depending on how you set up your case, but may need to bolt on a second fan to move more air through the radiator.

• Kraken G10 mount, allows you to attach the watercooling onto the GPU.
  
  
• It is compatible with most AIOs using Asatek mounting.
  
  
• It is also recommend to glue heatsinks onto the the memory and have heatsinks for the VRM, this will clearly void warranty. (you will need to buy the glue and heatsinks separately)
  
  Amazon Store: https://www.amazon.com/NZXT-Technologies-Kraken-Bracket-RL-KRG10-B1/dp/B00ITTFO8M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466696941&sr=8-1&keywords=kraken+g10
  
  
• There are other solutions such as the MK-26 that perform similar to water cooling, you also need to glue heatsinks , the MK-26 uses massive heatsink, that can be cooled by 2x 140mm or 2x 120mm fans, for example you can use attach noctua fan's and it will be very quiet.
  
  Amazon Store: https://www.amazon.com/Prolimatech-Black-MK-26-VGA-Cooler/dp/B00BKBMSFI
  
  Picture of MK-26 mounted on a GPU: http://cdn.overclock.net/9/98/98cd2c9b__dsc11858lphh.jpeg
  
  
• Accelero Xtreme IV, a more conventional style cooler, it is essentially an enlarged triple slot cooler, will also require installation of small heatsinks, this is the most heaviest solution, it comes with a backplate and brace
  
  Amazon Store: https://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-Accelero-Efficient-VRM-Cooling-DCACO-V800001-GBA01/dp/B00HHMJIIO
  
  Picture of Accelero Xtreme IV mounted on a GPU (Some GPUs might have cooling separate from the stock heatsink as show in the picture):
  
  https://i.ytimg.com/vi/gjXTsy_jxsA/maxresdefault.jpg

If you're going with an AIO, the Corsair H100i v2 is currently $45 off on Amazon. The Kraken is nice, but you definitely pay a premium for the RGB.

You could pair the Corsair cooler with a Fractal Designs Meshify C case and save quite a bit over this NZXT build, but I understand it all comes down to personal aesthetic taste.

First I got a cheap one:
SEMART Piano Keyboard Music Piano... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6ALCUY?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Because really I had over 5 years without building a pc so I wasn’t sure... then after getting super really high temps I went for this one:

EVGA CLC 280mm All-In-One RGB LED... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N16CAKN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

It’s been perfect so far.

This is the case: https://www.enermax.com/home.php?fn=eng/product_a1_1_1&lv0=2&lv1=9&no=400

The NH-D15 is one of the best air coolers available

If your budget is strict, the NH-D14 is nearly as good.

If you're serious about the black/white theme, Phanteks makes a decent unit.

If you want to consider an AIO, the Corsair H80i is mostly black with RGB lighting.

That case is designed for high airflow and already has 3x fans mounted in the front. I would put a 240 in the top as exhaust. The problem with front mounting an AIO as intake is that you fill your case with warm air and that can degrade your GPU performance. With it mounted top as exhaust the rest of your system still gets fresh air and top is good since heat naturally rises.

Btw that's a really nice RGB case, I think the Corsair H100i RGB platinum would compliment it really well : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JWB5BSN/?tag=pcpapi-20

Spend a little more and get a h100i v2. I have the h110i gt and it's keeping my 5960x relatively cool under a heavy overclock

Don't forget to get some noctua ppc fans as well :)

Alternatively, get the nhd15. But beware of ram clearances.

i am not in the US so don't really know the best options

via amazon here is the NZXT Kraken G10

here is an example of a compatible cooler, the Corsair H55

and here is an example of VRM heatsinks

i don't know if these are the best priced options just grabbed good examples of what would work

note that this is more modification than people usually do - replacing a GPU heatsink is not too common of an activity but it is not too hard if you are careful

You should be able to do 4.5GHz easily, try and remount it, take a pic of how the thermalpaste looks like under it, make sure the backplate is on the right way, and to check if the pump is working you can put your fingers on where it says ARCTIC and feel if it vibrates.

edit: It looks like this cooler.

They make a hybrid cooler for the gpu if you're super worried. I have one on mine and my temps are super low. Really easy to put on too. This is what I'm talking about.

Edit: Though now that I take two seconds to think, that may not be compatible with the Asus variant...

since you said pump head, I'd also assume you want liquid? Usually I'd recommend air. It helps to know what case you have. Here's a couple good RGB liquid AIO coolers:

240mm Raijtentek orcus

280mm NZXT Kraken x62

I just installed this guy and LOVE IT:

Cooler Master MasterLiquid LC240E RGB All-in-one CPU Liquid Cooler with Dual Chamber Pump Latest Intel/AMD Support (MLA-D24M-A18PC-R1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CRGC899/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_eatlDb1JZHK1W

My cpu barely breaks 50c even when overclocked.

You do not need both.

The Thermaltake Floe is an AIO (all in one) unit. It is for cooling CPU only. You don't need to buy anything else for it. If you're looking for a good AIO, I recommend Corsair's Hydro line. The Corsair H100i is amazing. And if you want that nice 360mm radiator, the H150i just launched. H for Hydro. The H150i may be hard to find as it is new.

The Pacific M4 is just a waterblock. Standalone waterblocks are for custom liquid cooling loops. Unlike an AIO if you bought this, you would need tubing, fittings, a pump, a reservoir, coolant, and radiators.

Also unlike AIO's, waterblocks are specific to parts. AIO's tend to be pretty universal. For example, that Pacific M4 is only for use on ASUS TUF X299 MARK1. There may be other compatible boards... but probably not.

Custom watercooling tends to be significantly more expensive. EKWB does have a pretty decent aluminum line for much lower costs. There are some caveats with it, but it's pretty simple. If you do go custom, I highly recommend staying away from Thermaltake. Someone recently posted about a 1080ti that got destroyed by a Thermaltake GPU block. Might have been a Titan... not sure... Either way, it was a sad sight to see.

Check out /r/watercooling if you a)want to see amazing rigs or b) have more questions about custom watercooling loops!

TLDR:

No. When buying a Floe of Corsair Hydro, all you need is the AIO. DON'T buy the Pacific M4 unless you have more money to spend.

When it comes to AIO water cooling a GPU it's down to cost. The cheapest AIO is going to to cost more than a heat pipe air cooler. As such they only fit them to the most expensive cards.

There is nothing stopping you fitting one yourself. Sometimes I wish graphics card makers would sell you the naked card without a cooler so you could fit what you want.

• GPU of your choice
  
• Kraken G10: https://www.amazon.co.uk/NZXT-G10-GPU-Adapter-Kraken/dp/B00ITTFNW4
  
• Cheap AIO: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Performance-Liquid-Cooler-Radiator/dp/B009VV56TY/
  
  

are you going to overclock? If not, you can go with a cheaper air cooler for the cpu. Also you could go with a cheaper mobo that's not all about overclocking. if you are overclocking and want that aio, I suggest this one
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=23R7QMLQ9U6KE&coliid=IE8JK4P8NSZ1D&psc=1

it has treated me well in the past, and its a tad cheaper than the one you picked.

why did you choose that motherboard? It's on the upper end, and if you don't need all those features, I'd suggest going with a lesser board, which would cost significantly less

do you need a 500gb ssd? you could save money there as well

an 850w psu is not needed for that build, you could drop that to a 550w unless you plan on going sli in the future, and even then, you shouldn't need more than a 750w, but the 850 would make it safer.

Also do you think this H100i v2 would be a better cpu cooler?

https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-CW-9060025-WW-Radiator-Advanced-Lighting/dp/B019EXSSBG

Also the only reason why I went for the fans is because I really do love RGB, I’ve always had a ugly terrible PC so I really do want to add some color thanks again for the help

Okee dokee. Simple question: DOES ANYONE KNOW COOLER MASTER’S SUPPORT EMAIL? I’m in Canada, but an email intended for US would totally work as well. My product didn’t come with a manual, I’m going to request for a digital PDF or something. The product is the only one also not on their website, only for Amazon.

Product - Cooler Master Masterliquid LC240E RGB
Amazon link: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CRGC899/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9o5mDb60SG2C7

Thanks for the reply. Since you have the 5t, which I also considered, do you think you would be able to fit the Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2, a 240 mm radiator in the top of that thing with the handle top accessory installed?

i was looking up 240mm aio cpu coolers and found one from coolermaster for $73, reviews on it are great, I'll stick with AIOs. Thanks for your input!



https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CRGC899/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k19WCbK4ZE9DC

Headphones

HyperX Cloud 2 - $70

Steelseries Arctis 7 - $100

Steelseries Arctis Pro with DAC - $200

Astro A50 - $200

Corsair Void Pro Wireless - $60

HyperX Cloud Stinger - $40

HyperX Cloud Pro - $50

HyperX Cloud Flight - $90

​

Keyboards

Corsair K68 - $80

Corsair K75 Mk.2 - $150

Corsair K95 - $110

Razer Huntsman - $100

HyperX Alloy Core - $30

HyperX Alloy FPS - $80

​

Mice

Steelseries Rival 600 - $50

Logitech G602 - $25

Razer Naga Trinity - $55

Logitech G502 - $35

Razer DeathAdder Elite - $35

​

Monitors

Dell D2719HGF (27", 1080p, 144Hz, Freesync) on sale for $150

Acer ED323QUR (31.5", 1440p, 144Hz, Curved, Freesync) - $270

Acer KG241Q (23.6", 1080p, 144Hz, Freesync) - $188

Acer Nitro VG271 (27", 1080p, 144Hz, Freesync) - $210

Alienware AW3418DW (34", 3440x1440p, Ultrawide, 120Hz Overclocked, G-Sync) - $720

Samsung LC32JG50QQNZA (32", 1440p, 144Hz) - $300

Acer EI491CR (49", 3840x1080p Ultra.. ultrawide?, 144Hz, Freesync) - $700

Acer KB272HL (27", 1080p, up to 75Hz, Freesync) - $115

Dell S3219D (32", 1440p, Freesync) - $220

ViewSonic XG2702 (27", 1080p, 144Hz, Freesync) - $180

​

​

Internal Components

Ryzen 7 2700X - $200

Ryzen Threadripper 2920X - $250 Sold Out

MSI Armor RX 590 - $180

Sapphire RX 570 4GB - $120

Ballistix Elite 16GB (8GBx2) DDR4 3600 RAM - $105

Corsair H115i RGB Platinum - $105

​

Other

Vive Pro - Up to $200 off

Samsung Galaxy S10 - $600, S10+ is 700

​

Some laptops and desktops on sale too, along with power supplies, routers, wifi extenders, and cases.

​

NOTE: The computer deals are located in two different places. PC Gaming section and PC Component section.

I've hit character limit, if I find more I'll add it underneath this

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edit: Thank you to the kind redditor who gave me my first gold!

edit2: A silver too?! Thanks!

I know this is spendy for your budget and towards the high end of your price range but with this being water cooled you’ll see very good numbers versus a air cooled

CORSAIR Hydro Series H60 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, 120mm Radiator, 120mm SP Series PWM Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079NXZQBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_.btBCb98YCKYE

EVGA's 280mm is on sale for $99 without MIR on Amazon, also their 240mm is $80. Great prices, imo.

I trust them more than Corsair.

Thanks for the info, that's really helpful. I'll take a look at those you recommended.

Quick question, is it worth considering liquid cooling at all? I've found this and this which both seem to be reviewed very well, in your opinion, would they do the job better than those air coolers you suggested? I notice that those fans on those coolers are smaller however so my guess would be that they wouldn't do any better but I'm only guessing.

No way you can do custom water cooling for two cpus for under $100. Best you could do is get two separate AIO units like this. These will give slightly better performance than a comparable air cooler.

You're not wrong as far as the cooling goes, this thing needs a good cooler only if you overclock though, which you shouldn't do until later in it's lifespan for the extra horsepower. I'm using a hyper 212 evo for stock clock and it's fine. But if you look at some good AIO water coolers, they're around 100 which is super close to your nocua air cooler's price.

Overclocking + Delid thing all depends on your silicon lottery. You may not need to delid.

Your 8600k is not a bad buy, but when you compare prices, the deal microcenter offers a 300$ 8700k + $30 off mobo. That comes out to be basically the same price you're paying for an 8600k. The 8700k will last you longer as well. Just some food for thought.

I guess I should have prefaced that if I save a little money from making a rig that fits my needs, that'd be good by me. It looked to me like the GTX 1080 TI wasn't really worth the extra 200-300 considering QHD. You think this aio cooler would suffice for overclocking the 7700?
https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-Cooler/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496270519&sr=8-1&keywords=aio+cooler

sorry if this is basic.. I'm not sure what "overclocking" is, and if my setup would benefit from this cooler? https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019EXSSBG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Also, there seems to be a fit/compatibility issue on PC Part Picker, but I read a review and youtube video that says it might be a tight fit, but will fit with a bit of room to spare? Worth it? I'm just worrying about the case being too crowded and poor circulation, overheating, etc. Thanks again..

So, A temperature at mid 60s is perfectly fine, high 80s and above you should start getting more worried. If you want lower temperatures try getting a liquid cooler, (such as This One or re apply with higher quality thermal paste, here's a good one IC Diamond 24 Carat 4.8 Gram Thermal Compound Here's some thermal paste.

If dust has built up, you could try using compressed air to remove it. Dust can clog fans, an other devices.

Also, if something is stealing your resources in the background, I recommend running a virus scan. What are your highs at after the idle temperature increase?

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-Waterblock-Radiator-Compatible-Warranty/dp/B01J4ZGT88

I have a white 570x case by corsair which is pretty much just an updated model of yours. This is the cooler I put in which matches the color scheme pretty well, but you could go up to a 360mm as it should still fit.

My girlfriend told me that at the end of the day she will buy everything in my amazon cart up to 300 dollars...

But I didn't really have anything I needed or even wanted all that bad.. Took me all day to find stuff lol.

So I got

Corsair Hydro Series H100i v2 $97

JD Fenix Limited Edition Xbox One Wireless Controller $55

Microsoft Xbox Wireless Adapter for Windows $21

Xbox One Play and Charge Kit $24

SanDisk 128GB Flash Drive $32

APC 11-Outlet Surge Protector $35

APC 8-Outlet Surge Protector $25

10 Nylon Lanyards for Small Electronic Devices $4

Still have 8 dollars left over haha.

Depends. From what I can see here I'd say that a Hyper 212 Evo would be much better than the stock, although it doesn't necessarily look the prettiest. From what I know about the Fractal R4 you could also put in a Corsair H100i V2 for only about $110 more than stock.

I would suggest a much better cooler

For air cooling my go to option is the cooler master hyper 212 black edition $37
Cooler Master RR-212S-20PC-R1 Hyper 212 RGB Black Edition CPU Air Cooler 4 Direct Contact Heat pipes 120mm RGB Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H22TC1N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kP-rDb444X54H

Or you could use a all in one liquid cooler
This 120mm aio is less than $70
CORSAIR Hydro Series H60 AIO Liquid CPU Cooler, 120mm Radiator, 120mm SP Series PWM Fan https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079NXZQBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_i2pfDb705AHRP

$70 CORSAIR Hydro Series H60 AIOhttps://www.newegg.com/product/N82E16835181140

If your case can handle a 2x 120mm aio
$75 Cooler Master MasterLiquid LC240E RGB All-in-one CPU Liquid Cooler with Dual Chamber Pump Latest Intel/AMD Support (MLA-D24M-A18PC-R1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CRGC899/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_D6pfDbJ8NS75B

Your EVGA reference GTX 980 should work with that Corsair HG10 N980 no problem. The reference PCB is the reference PCB, and you have the reference PCB lol. If that makes sense...

If you are really worried about it there is always the Kraken G10 but I'm literally 99.9% positive that the Corsair bracket will fit your PCB.

https://www.amazon.com/DEEPCOOL-CAPTAIN-Radiator-Compatible-warranty/dp/B01J4ZGT88/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1522421661&sr=1-1&keywords=Deepcool+240+white&dpID=41iWLlTq6oL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Deepcool 240 EX white. Like new in box. 70 shipped.

Here's what people's completed builds look like with the cooler:

https://pcpartpicker.com/builds/by_part/Dz648d

Review by Guru 3d

http://www.guru3d.com/articles_pages/deepcool_captain_240_ex_review,12.html

Video to show what it looks like in person:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ELCcPHTxjt4

It's still under warranty from and I have the invoice from Newegg in case you ever need to claim it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IEKG402/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012120&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=2tb&dpPl=1&dpID=5152Tk32IxL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07598VZR8/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012014&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=i7+8700k&dpPl=1&dpID=51cmJqb4I2L&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075RHWCC4/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y8HXXRND52YXQAJCPVDA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0134EW7G8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_147_img_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y8HXXRND52YXQAJCPVDA

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005BE058W/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012102&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=evga+supernova+750&dpPl=1&dpID=51UcIW5x4QL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IR6LMLO/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012187&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=1080&dpPl=1&dpID=51bpp6rWCmL&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B073SBX6TY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012150&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ssd+m.2&dpPl=1&dpID=41GJN9qS2CL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XX8Q1CL/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521012171&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=nzxt+kraken+x62

The parts are
8700k
Mobo z370
2x8gb ddr4
Kraken x62 to keep the cpu cool
Thx 1080(had to drop the ti due to prices)
M.2 ssd for boot drive
2tb hdd for storage
Evga supernova 750w
If you have extra change invest in noctua high static pressures fan to optimize cooling

The only problem I see at all is the case. I'd prefer something with a front intake. The front to back always works good for me keeping ambient down, especially air cooling.

My only other thought would be WC. My only TR builds I've done I threw in water-cooling and never ever worried about temps with a decent sized rad with 4 or 6 fans. Not really that much more expensive.

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Ultimate-Aluminum-Enthusiast-CL-W007-PL12BL/dp/B00MPIDYTO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=water+cooling+tr4&qid=1551395579&s=gateway&sr=8-5

I used one like this and it works amazing.

For $50 more you could have gotten this water cooled GTX 1080:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B01LHYIFE0/?ie=UTF8&condition=all&tag=nisamain-20&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

The thing is that the GTX 780 isn't really a bad card. The 1070 only offers a 60% performance boost so you're paying $100 for each 10% increase in performance. The main advantage of the 1070 is the additional VRAM for running games at higher resolutions. You can always pawn the 780 on ebay for ~$150.

I see this cooler on sale for amazon prime day. Is it better than the one listed and will it fit into this pc? Thanks!

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019EXSSBG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499806217&sr=1-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&dpPl=1&dpID=410fpLTJM-L&ref=plSrch

so a few things stick out to me

the first being the ram, 16 gigs is quite a bit for gaming, 8 gigs should still be quite sufficient for some time, and when the time comes when it's not, its super simple to just buy 8 more gigs and throw them in there, for now i'd say go with 8.

thing 2 is the cooler, are you planning on really pushing this processor or do you live in a hot place? if neither of those things you could either a) go way cheaper, bor b) go water (if you like the aesthetic)

additionally, HDD space is kinda like the ram in the sense that if you run out, you can just throw in more. i currently have 70 games + 1000 hours of music + 8 seasons of different shows on my 1T hdd and i still have 265 gigs free, so 2T's is a lot of space. the golden rule is to buy what's right for you

Personal preference, but I’m looking at getting the EVGA AIO CLC240, aesthetically a little better looking (imo), and $10 cheaper.

Reviews online seem like they have similar performance and noise levels. Anyone have experience with this AIO?

EVGA CLC 240 Liquid/Water CPU Cooler, RGB LED Cooling 400-HY-CL24-V1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074WH52BW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IsrZBbR4HB5MT

Fun fact my 1080 had an issue where the VRMs started blowing up. yay (mine wasn’t affected)

you probably get better cooling performance using one of those AIO water cooling kits like this. have the pump plug wired directly to a switch which is then directly connected to the power source and whenever you need to use it, switch it on and leave it running as long as you need the flashlight then have another switch that controls the on and off of the leds. Or you could make your own custom water cooling with two "cpu" mounting units, mounting to the back of each led. which I recommend.

If that doesn't work, try the Hyper 212 EVO heatsink, its cheap. Or make your own heatsink with Solidworks or something.

Should I buy this AIO, or should I buy this one? AFAIK bigger is always better on radiators? And I don't mind spending the extra 10 bucks if that's true. this is my case.

If you don't plan on overclocking, the stock Intel cooler should work just fine in a mITX build.

For just over €75, the Corsair H55 is an option. For much less, look for the Arctic Liquid Freezer 120 but it is a lot thicker so you'll have to make sure it will fit in the case you plan on using.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Corsair-Platinum-Radiator-Advanced-Lighting/dp/B07JWB5BSN/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=rgb+aio&qid=1557519971&s=gateway&sr=8-3

​

Theres one with lights on the fans, enjoy :)

If you're absolutely hell bent on ZERO RGB, the only options you have are:

1. BeQuiet Silent Loop 280mm, which isn't available in the US.
   
2. Cryorig A80, which is actually more expensive than a comparable RGB model.
   
   I'd recommend something like the EVGA CLC 280 or the Corsair H115i Pro and just disable the RGB on the pump. Because:
   
   
3. Both are cheaper.
   
4. Both come with non-RGB fans.
   
5. Both come with excellent warranties from excellent companies.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-6700K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $324.99 @ SuperBiiz
CPU Cooler | Corsair H115i 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $110.04 @ NCIX US
CPU Cooler | Corsair H115i 104.7 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler | $110.04 @ NCIX US
Motherboard | Gigabyte GA-Z170XP-SLI ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | $124.99 @ SuperBiiz
Memory | Team Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $69.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Intel 540s 1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | $287.99 @ Newegg
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $67.99 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $67.99 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $67.99 @ SuperBiiz
Storage | Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $67.99 @ SuperBiiz
Video Card | EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW DT GAMING Video Card | $649.99 @ B&H
Case | Fractal Design Define S w/Window ATX Mid Tower Case | $89.99 @ NCIX US
Power Supply | Corsair RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $94.99 @ Amazon
Operating System | Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit | $92.19 @ Amazon
Monitor | Dell S2716DG 27.0" 144Hz Monitor | $549.89 @ Amazon
Other| NZXT Kraken GPU Cooler| $25.00 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $2802.05
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-09-07 01:48 EDT-0400 |

Liquid cooled CPU + GPU

I'm putting this here because I don't want to flood the main sub with what I'm able to find. So here goes:

Headphones| Price

--|:--
[ATH-M50x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M50x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR86/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757226&sr=1-1&keywords=headphones) |$150 in cart. $250-$300 everywhere else I check
[Sennhieser HD 598 SR Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sennheiser-HD-598-SR-Open-Back/dp/B06WRMZZ45/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757356&sr=1-1&keywords=hd+598) |$109 Record low
[Audio-Technica ATH-M40x Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Audio-Technica-ATH-M40x-Professional-Headphones/dp/B00HVLUR54/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758834&sr=1-6&keywords=bose) |$180 - $38 = $141
[August EP650-Bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP650-Bluetooth-Wireless-Headphones-Leather/dp/B00F54Y6GU/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759484&sr=1-2&keywords=headphones)| Was $99, now $58
[August EP640 Bluetooth Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/August-EP640-Rechargeable-built-Smartphones/dp/B00MHOFR78/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499772544) |was $80, now $37
[Prime Day Bluedio T2S Headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Bluedio-Shooting-Bluetooth-headphones-wireless/dp/B00Q2VIW9M/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759635&sr=1-4&keywords=bluetooth) | Was $20, $21 in cart no tax
Prime Day Bluedio V Headphones | was $200, $140 in cart no tax
[AUSDOM ANC 7 Bluetooth noise cancelling] (https://www.amazon.ca/Cancelling-Headphones-AUSDOM-Bluetooth-Comfortable/dp/B01LZ7Q5R1/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499808109&sr=1-4&keywords=aptx) | was $100, now $50. Well reviewed!
[Sony Extra bass bluetooth headphones] (https://www.amazon.ca/Sony-MDRXB950B1-Extra-Headphone-Model/dp/B01N5UVZBP) | was $200, now $99


Earbuds| Price

--|:--
[Aukey Arcs Bluetooth Sport] (https://www.amazon.ca/AUKEY-Bluetooth-Headphones-Microphone-Sweatproof/dp/B01EWUP4NQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499804815&sr=1-4&keywords=headphones)| was $24, now $14
[1MORE Triple Driver earbuds] (https://www.amazon.ca/1MORE-Headphones-Earphones-Compatible-Microphone/dp/B01KB9K9Z0/ref=lp_17037466011_1_4?srs=17037466011&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766067&sr=8-4&th=1) | Was $131, $106 in cart

Bluetooth misc| Price

--|:--
[Anker Premium Stereo Bluetooth 4.0 Speaker ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Anker-Bluetooth-Subwoofers-Portable-Wireless/dp/B0107WH8Q4/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499800448&sr=1-6&keywords=subwoofer) | was $130, now $60
[Trond bluetooth receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/TROND-Bluetooth-Receiver-Headphones-Speakers/dp/B01M9I0LSK/) | Was $25, now $20. I have one its awesome
[Altman Bluetooth Transmitter/receiver] (https://www.amazon.ca/ALTMAN-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Receiver-Wireless/dp/B06Y25PGBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803431&sr=1-1&keywords=aptx) |was $43, now $26



CPU Coolers| Price

--|:--
[CORSAIR Hydro Series H100i v2 Extreme ] (https://www.amazon.ca/CORSAIR-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060025-WW/dp/B019EXSSBG/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757440&sr=1-1&keywords=corsair) |$110. Historic [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/CrDzK8/corsair-cpu-cooler-cw9060025ww)
[Corsair Hydro Series H115i Extreme Performance] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Extreme-Performance-Liquid-CW-9060027-WW/dp/B019955RNQ/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499756838&sr=1-3&keywords=corsair) |$155 (temporarily out of stock)
[MasterLiquid Pro 240 All-In-One] (https://www.amazon.ca/MasterLiquid-Technology-Chamber-MasterFan-Radiator/dp/B01E5XNP5Y/ref=lp_16927652011_1_24?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1499766384&sr=1-24) | was $140, now $95 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sqmxFT/cooler-master-cpu-cooler-mlyd24ma20mbr1)

PSU| Price

--|:--
[Corsair CS650M] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Modular-Efficient-Supply-CS650M/dp/B00GH9NA2I/ref=sr_1_11?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499757999&sr=1-11&keywords=corsair) |$110. Not the lowest but okay
[EVGA SuperNOVA 550 G3] (https://www.amazon.ca/EVGA-SuperNOVA-Modular-Warranty-220-G3-0550-Y1/dp/B01LWTS2UL/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499759891&sr=1-1&keywords=evga)| Was $130, now $99 [historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sMM323/evga-supernova-g3-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-220-g3-0550)

Cases| Price

--|:--
[Corsair 780T full atx case] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Graphite-780T-Full-Tower/dp/B00LA6POK4) | $189 in cart. Not an [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/sNJwrH/corsair-case-cc9011063ww) but not bad
[Corsair Carbide 400C white] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-CC-9011095-WW-Carbide-Compact-Mid-Tower/dp/B01F97W9ZM/ref=sr_1_12?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499813131&sr=1-12&keywords=corsair) |$105 in cart

HDD| Price

--|:--
[Seagate Backup Plus Hub 8TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-External-Desktop-Storage-STEL8000100/dp/B01HD6ZLQ6/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-3&keywords=hdd) | $270 - 51 = $219
[Seagate 4TB BarraCuda Pro ] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-BarraCuda-3-5-Inch-Internal-ST4000DM006/dp/B01MSW4MNS/ref=sr_1_4?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499758359&sr=1-4&keywords=hdd)|$245-75 = $170 [Historic low!] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/qRtWGX/seagate-barracuda-pro-4tb-35-7200rpm-internal-hard-drive-st4000dm006)
[Seagate Backup Plus 4TB Portable] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0196J43TE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3DWYIK6Y9EEQB&psc=1) | Was $160, now $135 [all time low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/NyQRsY/seagate-backup-plus-4tb-external-hard-drive-stdr4000100)
[Seagate Firecuda 2TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B01M1NHCZT/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)| was $126, now $85 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/zk7CmG/seagate-firecuda-2tb-25-5400rpm-internal-hard-drive-st2000lx001)
[Seagate Firecuda 1TB] (https://www.amazon.ca/Seagate-Firecuda-2-5-Inch-Internal-ST1000LX015/dp/B01LWRTRZU/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767750&sr=1-1&keywords=ssd) | was $83, now $60 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/w6x9TW/seagate-firecuda-1tb-25-5400rpm-hybrid-internal-hard-drive-st1000lx015)

Input Devices| Price

--|:--
[Logitech G13 input pad] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-G13-Programmable-Gameboard-Display/dp/B001NEK2GE/ref=sr_1_21?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499761901&sr=1-21&keywords=board+games) | Was $75, now $55 [Historic Low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/jbvZxr/logitech-keyboard-920000946)
[Corsair Gaming K70 LUX RGB MX Brown] (https://www.amazon.ca/Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01ER4B7YM/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499770080&) | was $180, now $160 [Historic low] (https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/34M323/corsair-k70-lux-rgb-wired-gaming-keyboard-ch-9101012-na)


Networking| Price

--|:--
[NETGEAR Nighthawk X8 AC5300 Router] (https://www.amazon.ca/NETGEAR-Nighthawk-Tri-Band-Quad-Stream-R8500-100CNS/dp/B01A85Y9TE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499760240&sr=8-1&keywords=NETGEAR+Nighthawk+X8+AC5300)| was $499, now $290
[TP-Link AC3200 Tri band router] (https://www.amazon.ca/TP-Link-Tri-Band-Beamforming-Archer-C3200/dp/B00YY3XSSA/ref=sr_1_3?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760450&sr=1-3&keywords=modem) | Was $249, now $175
[Netgear 16-Port Gigabit Switch] (https://www.amazon.ca/Netgear-16-Port-Gigabit-Ethernet-Desktop/dp/B01AX8XHRQ/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760948&sr=1-6&keywords=ethernet) | Was $106, now $75 in cart

MISC| Price

--|:--
[Logitech C922x Webcam] (https://www.amazon.ca/Logitech-Stream-Webcam-Streaming-960-001176/dp/B01LXCDPPK/ref=sr_1_5?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499760799&sr=1-5&keywords=computer) | was $130, now $89. All time low
[Acer KG251Q 1080p Freesync monitor] (https://www.amazon.ca/Acer-KG251Q-bmiix-FREESYNC-Technology/dp/B06X6HJ1SF/ref=sr_1_6?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499762804&sr=1-6&keywords=monitor) | Was $230, now $170
[M9S PRO android tv box] (https://www.amazon.ca/Leelbox-M9S-Pro-Android-6-0/dp/B01MD0NZPK/ref=sr_1_2?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499767387) | Was $130, $98 in cart
[Cyberpower 600w UPS] (https://www.amazon.ca/CyberPower-CP1000PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N192/ref=sr_1_1?s=prime-day&psr=PDAY&ie=UTF8&qid=1499803529&sr=1-1&keywords=ups) | was $224, now $125


I'll try to keep tabs on everything but let me know if there are any errors or price updates. And as a side note, I'm actually getting downvotes for this? I can't see how there could possibly be a sane explanation for that.

 

EDIT: Updated 7:00pm EST!! Let me know if there's anything you see and I'll put it in here!

 

EDIT: I've put everything new as of Jan 11, 4:00pm in bold. Also, check this post on RedFlagDeals for a great big list of deal

 

EDIT: Its all over everyhone. Hope you snagged something cool beyond bitter disappointment this year!**


 

A few suggestions:

• Decent mid range CPU Cooler either big block or water like this one. Reduced system noise under load and improved overclocking / turbo boost frequencies if your CPU has those features.
  
  
• Small / cheap SSD to boot from i.e. something like this. Enough space for Windows + 1 or 2 decent sized games, although $/GB ratio isn't great.
  
  
• RAM. Even with the inflated prices RAM is going for at the moment a decent 8GB set like this one can be had for $65 and will give a bit of breathing room if you are currently on 4GB or less.
  
  
• A decent keyboard or mouse ... Razer happen to make decent models in both cases at the price point but obviously alternatives from Logitech, Steelseries etc are equally worth considering.
  
  
• A combo USB 3.0 / SATA 6 PCI-E card like this if you have an old motherboard without those interfaces and want to extend its lifespan
  
  Things not to buy:
  
  
• Graphics card (unless building a HTPC)
  
• CPU
  
• New motherboard with an old socket
  
• Hard Drive
  
  Reason being is that in these cases the performance / capacity / longevity (delete where appropriate) of parts in this price range is severely impaired compared to spending $100 ... for half the money you get way more than half the product. In almost all cases, if replacing an existing component parts bought at this price will not be a worthy upgrade unless you are upgrading the MIR space station...