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Reddit mentions of Anker 10 Port 60W Data Hub with 7 USB 3.0 Ports and 3 PowerIQ Charging Ports for MacBook, Mac Pro/Mini, iMac, XPS, Surface Pro, iPhone 7, 6s Plus, iPad Air 2, Galaxy Series, Mobile HDD, and More

Sentiment score: 25
Reddit mentions: 57

We found 57 Reddit mentions of Anker 10 Port 60W Data Hub with 7 USB 3.0 Ports and 3 PowerIQ Charging Ports for MacBook, Mac Pro/Mini, iMac, XPS, Surface Pro, iPhone 7, 6s Plus, iPad Air 2, Galaxy Series, Mobile HDD, and More. Here are the top ones.

Anker 10 Port 60W Data Hub with 7 USB 3.0 Ports and 3 PowerIQ Charging Ports for MacBook, Mac Pro/Mini, iMac, XPS, Surface Pro, iPhone 7, 6s Plus, iPad Air 2, Galaxy Series, Mobile HDD, and More
Buying options
View on Amazon.com
  • The Anker Advantage: Join the 50 million+ powered by our leading technology.
  • Ultra Fast: 7 ports offer high-speed data transfer of up to 5Gbps. Get synced up in no time.
  • Advanced Charging Technology: 3 ports equipped with Anker-exclusive PowerIQ deliver the fastest possible charge of up to 2.1 amps per port.
  • Compact Power: 60W packed into a device the size of a pen case. Simultaneously charge multiple devices while conserving space.
  • What You Get: Anker 60W 10-Port USB 3.0 Data Hub, 12V / 5A AC power adapter, 2.6ft. USB 3.0 cable, welcome guide, our worry-free 18-month warranty and friendly customer service.
Height0.90551 Inches
Length5.70865 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateJune 2015
Weight1.07 pounds
Width1.73228 Inches

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Found 57 comments on Anker 10 Port 60W Data Hub with 7 USB 3.0 Ports and 3 PowerIQ Charging Ports for MacBook, Mac Pro/Mini, iMac, XPS, Surface Pro, iPhone 7, 6s Plus, iPad Air 2, Galaxy Series, Mobile HDD, and More:

u/clearybuzz · 5 pointsr/DJs


I bought this hub recently and it works great. I think this is one of the higher end ones but it was one of the amazon deals of the day a few weeks ago so I grabbed it for like 75% off.

u/ivan510 · 5 pointsr/xboxone

I go this usb hub and no longer worry about ports as I have 2 charging cables, an external hdd, astro mix amp and some other random cables. Given it was $20 awhile back but they often go on sale for very cheap.

u/DiabloConQueso · 5 pointsr/buildapc

Yep, do your research.

I did, and ended up with this one which hasn't been any kind of slouch for my usage.

u/galocapo · 4 pointsr/oculus

I tried a tp-link hub usb3.0 with 7 ports but it was giving me issues losing the sensors, then after looking around I found that some people is using the anker hub without issues, I bought it and it is working fine, no problems so far, for the moment I have 2 sensors (waiting for my third) connected to the hub that is connected to a 3 feet usb3.0 extension directly to my motherboard (asus z77) usb3.0 port and the rift is connected to a 3 feet usb3.0 extension directly to my motherboard to a usb3.0 port, I found that this configuration works fine for me.
Here is the link to the hub and its in discount now according to amazon:

u/mredofcourse · 3 pointsr/PleX

Is it a "Late 2012" model with 4 USB 3 ports?

Here's what I'm doing with a similar Mac mini...

I have 8 * 8TB Drives. 4 are live and 4 are used as cloned backups. This supports my 32TB library. I just keep adding in pairs, and I'm about to add 2 more.

Just add USB hubs if you need more ports. This is what I'm using. There are other hubs with more ports, but this meets my needs.

I then connect these drives in pairs. I currently have 8 of them in use. I have 1 in standby in case one of the others ever fails, I can bring it into use. I travel a lot, so being able to do that remotely is nice.

I run Carbon Copy Cloner to clone the drives instead of Time Machine. This allows me to schedule exactly when I want them cloning or I can manually click a button to clone on demand if I've just updated the library. It will send email alerts and notifications if there's a problem, and it will optionally mount/unmount the cloned drive (as well as other actions/scripts).

Really this is all a super easy way to go without any network issues you may encounter with a NAS.

There are some downsides as ultimately NAS/RAID can be less expensive and certainly less cluttered. My whole set up is in a giant server cabinet which houses a bunch of other equipment in for our home theater and the rest of the house, so that's not an issue.

u/heller59 · 3 pointsr/oculus

I had the same problem until I got a powered USB hub:

>Anker 10-Port 60W USB 3.0 Hub

If you want to fix it with a powered USB add-in card, there's really only one to buy now that Oculus has posted their list:

>Startech SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Card Adapter

Here's the blog post on additional hardware:

>Oculus Roomscale: Extra Equipment

u/4d_lulz · 3 pointsr/xboxone

Gotcha! Well, I can recommend this.

u/_mutelight_ · 3 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Sure, here you go: https://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Transfer-PowerIQ-Charging/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1473087310&sr=8-5&keywords=anker+USB+hub

I have the VR stuff connected directly to the motherboard (except for the sensor for the Oculus which is going through the hub). The headphone Amp/Dac, Keyboard, Mouse, and mic are connected to the hub so they aren't that throughput hungry.

u/MattVanAndel · 2 pointsr/oculus

Although Robo Recall was a bit too arcadey for my tastes, it's still very fun and free, but Lone Echo... omfg, Lone Echo is amazing. Absolute must-play.

I also recommend Wilson's Heart, Obduction, and Robinson (which just got Touch support!) if you are into VR adventure games.

If you are into racing, and have all the right gear (seat + wheel + pedals), check out Dirt Rally and Project CARS 2, as well. They are incredible. I've noticed that people don't tend to have nausea problems with racing games when they are using a seat and wheel.

If you are ready to step things up, Elite: Dangerous is the one VR experience that keeps me coming back more than any other (Dirt Rally comes in second). You can easily spend a lot of money on it, though. Add a HOTAS setup, Voice Commander, and a VC voice pack, and you've added $300 to your purchase price... but once you do, it's no longer a game... you are genuinely living in space. I don't even really think of it as a game anymore. It's a second life. It's real.

Oh and as others have mentioned... don't leave your Rift near a window. Those damn fresnel lenses can damage your screen like a magnifying glass focusing on an ant... and Oculus will NOT repair it, not even for a fee.

Also, I strongly recommend mounting your cameras to a wall or ceiling. These are the mounts I use and recommend: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001D49TU4/

I've found just about any USB3 extender cable works, but apparently, some people's motherboards don't output enough power for longer cables. If you run into that problem, use a USB3 or USB-C (if your mobo has one) based, independently powered hub. I've found you can get away with 2 cameras running over a single powered hub connected to a USB3 port, or 4 cameras connected to a hub connected to a USB-C port.

Here's the USB3 hub I recommend to everyone with power issues: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/

Edit: Oh, and if you already have Alien: Isolation, there's now a mod that restores the game's original VR support for CV. Keep in mind, it still has plenty of rough edges and is gamepad only, but playing through that in VR is one my most cherished gaming memories.

u/userminjo · 2 pointsr/oculus

My Anker 7 port USB3.0 Data & Charging Hub was delivered today and I just tested it. It works. Link is https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Have fun. See you in VR.

u/MaXKiLLz · 2 pointsr/oculus

I use this and it works great.

u/klankworth · 2 pointsr/RetroPie

I looked into the reviews on Amazon for that specific hub. Here is on the only review that references the Rapsberry Pi: link

Unfortunately all he/she states is the hub "doesn't play nice with the raspberry pi".

Also, if you want to know which ones work and which ones are having issues, reference the RPi Powered USB Hubs Compatibility List. Although this one doesn't have the hub you purchased on the list, it would be advantageous for others if you updated the database.

Hope this helps!

edited too many times to count

u/polluteddanglez · 2 pointsr/xboxone

I have this.

Connected to it I have an external HD, thumb drive, controller charging cable, mic transmitter, mic charging cable, and a phone charger (hooked up to the fast charge port). I haven't had any problems and I've been using it on my S since December. I have the Kinect plugged directly into the console though.

u/doc_willis · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I use the big usb-phone charger from anker - it can charge about 10 phones.. and i have had it running 4 pis at once.. this is not a Powered USB HUB.. but a Multi Port USB charger.


60 W of Power!

Here is a slightly smaller one.. but 63W of Power.


I ran a few pis, and was charging my tablet and phone.

From what i quickly googled - a Pi3 under full load - may use 4W of power.


So a 60W Supply should be able to handle 10 pi's but i would keep an eye on it to make sure it does not get hot.

I also have a 10 Port USB 3 powered USB HUB - with 3 'power only' usb ports. This lets me use the hub on the pi and power the same pi. But it is not 'exactly' what you asked for. But it is 60W - and very handy.. and can fast charge your phone.


Find one with a built in Network port - for a pi zero - is also handy. :)

Wow - I have way to many electronic things for my Pi Collection. :)

u/JJRedit2016 · 2 pointsr/Dell

don't know much about 8920 model because it will be delivered tomorrow, lol.

Why don't you get a usb port with a power adapter. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VDVCQ84

i used this one for two years. working pretty well. charging all kinds of devices from the port like mouse, iphone and wireless earbuds.

u/DrashVR · 2 pointsr/oculus

I see everyone's talking about getting new cards with USB ports... would a powered 10-port hub work?

This is the one I use and it has been an absolute lifesaver so far:

u/dollarsmakesense · 2 pointsr/computertechs

Depending on what you're doing, it might be worth it to get one of these bad boys: http://www.amazon.com/Anker-10-Port-Transfer-PowerIQ-Charging/dp/B00VDVCQ84/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1464720967&sr=8-11&keywords=amazon+flash+drive+hub

Then a set of these: http://www.amazon.com/20-4GB-Flash-Drive-Metallic/dp/B00KLEQEKK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1464721003&sr=8-5&keywords=bulk+flash+drive

(Or whatever size you need) Edit- You might have a better time with 3.0 - these are 2.0

Then just create a folder or a share on your machine, plug these bad boys in, and just copy/paste your data to all the flash drives, or use an app like BeyondCompare to do it for you.

u/virgil990 · 2 pointsr/oculus

I'm using a new Alienware 15 r3 (i7 6820K, GTX 1070) If you watch your deals you can get one for around $2.2K or less (got mine for $2K after tax.) They have some component issues they are working through at the moment but for the most part it runs like a dream. My AW15 replaced an enormous watercooled i7 4790K, GTX 980 ti Classified rig. Steam VR benchmarks on the two machines are within a few decimal points of each other at 10.8 & 11 respectively (Classified out ahead.) I have an Oculus and a Vive (and a PSVR & Gear VR) both run without a hitch, supersampling up to around 1.3 to 1.5 across the board (still need to do some fine tuning.) I run both HMDs through the Vive Linkbox plugged into the Thunderbolt 2 / DVI on the AW15, plug a second monitor into the HDMI (though I only use the external monitor) and still have a Thunderbolt 3 and AW Amplifier Port open for further horsepower and lighting fast storage, though it probably won't be needed for at least a year from now. 3 remaining USB 3 ports (one type C) I'm using 2 Anker 7 Port USB 3 Hubs for all other connections (3 Rift Sensors, Link Box, wireless keyboard, external RAID enclosure) everything seems to be working exceptionally well. You can get larger HUBs but you will overload a single USB 3 port so it is best split them up. All and all I am very happy with the switch to the laptop and I have room to grow with the TB3 and AW Amplifier for the future.

Anker 7 Port Hub

Vive Link Box

u/Sergster1 · 1 pointr/oculus

I've noticed that I can only use my wireless adapter in certain USB ports otherwise it'll constantly disconnect. I think it has to do with a power issue as it solved itself as soon as I got a powered USB hub.

And before anyone assumes I was using an unpowered USB hub I was using one of my mobo's USB 3.0 ports. I even tried my monitors USB port and it still would constantly disconnect. Now that I'm running a powered USB hub through my monitor's USB port everything works great.

I'm using this in case anyone was wondering. http://amzn.com/B00VDVCQ84

u/Copycatr3 · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

That looks good! Would an Anker 3.0 hub work?



Does this kind of hub just work on its own? No need for other USB ports Or is it powered by another, already in there USB port? Because if that's how it works, I think I only have 2.0s.

u/YakraXIII · 1 pointr/kshootmania

That's most likely good news, then. My controller was acting up when I got it, too (including driver install issues), and it turned out that my USB port wasn't supplying enough power for the controller to do anything but light up. I invested in a USB hub with an external power source (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84) and the controller has been working perfectly ever since.

I dunno if this is the same problem you're having, but it might be worth a try?

u/FPS_LK · 1 pointr/emulation

Okay, so in case you or anyone else was wondering, I got it to work.

I ended up purchasing https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

In case the link dies it's an Anker 10 Port 60W USB 3.0 Hub with 7 Data Transfer Ports and 3 PowerIQ Charging Ports. Basically you plug that into an outlet, so make sure you have an available outlet near the USB Hub.

I plugged that into my usb extension cable (which is a BlueRigger 32 feet USB 2.0 Type A Male to A Female Active Extension / Repeater Cable seen here https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005LJKEXS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Then I plugged the DolphinBar into the first port. Works like a charm. Basically, the extension cable just needed more juice because it couldn't transmit the signal through 32 feet of cable without an external source.

And, for the record, if anyone comes across an issue like this, my next step was to do USB over a Cat5 or Cat6 (or whichever cable you prefer to use) which I was fairly certain would have worked.

Learned a lot about USB cables.

u/DekkerVS · 1 pointr/oculus

I think it is more about power than the cabling...

Inatek USB card as noted below, which is available on Amazon.


or a Powered hub might work for you, it helped me though I already had it, but the PCI card is probably better:


or a shorter Amazon basics cable length perhaps? 6feet instead of 9?

u/DeliciousGorilla · 1 pointr/battlestations

I'm using the Apple Multiport Adapter for power, HDMI (for the TV), and connection to my USB switch. The USB switch is connected to this Anker USB-A hub.

There's a bunch of options for USB-C hubs on Amazon. I've been using this HooToo hub at the office for a year now and it works fine.

u/s-multicellular · 1 pointr/ipadmusic

They are unfortunately vague about specs. But this one does supply a 2.1A for the ipad. I even have it powering a Moog Sirin. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/netchemica · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

I'm trying to use my Pi 3 B+ as a Kodi box.

I'm using this powered hub with an external 4tb usb 3.0 hard drive that has media on it. The drive is using NTFS.

I'm completely new to any kind of Unix/Linux software.

Using "sudo blkid" shows the hard drive under /dev/sda1, but sda1 does not exist when I browse /dev.

I tried using this guide but made no progress.

u/jimmy1701 · 1 pointr/hotas

I recently upgraded to an x56 as well. I have been using this without issue. Have both the joystick and throttle, as well as a couple of other items plugged into it:



u/Soprohero · 1 pointr/Surface

Well I kind of found a solution. I bought an external USB hub that I connected to the USB port on the surface. The one I bought in particular was this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VDVCQ84/ref=mp_s_a_1_12?qid=1458129562&sr=8-12&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=usb+hub But I think any that is powered externally will work. This fixed my problem and my mouse and arcade stick are now recognized.

u/ClintE1956 · 1 pointr/nvidiashield

We've had an Anker 10-port (7 data, 3 charge) USB 3.0 hub since we purchased our first Shield Pro unit. Works great.


u/mogwai_for_sale · 1 pointr/PlaystationClassic

Thanks for the info. I am infact using a USB hub for power. The exact model is linked below: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The 3 dedicated charge ports provide 2.1A of power so I assume that is enough juice for the drive/PSC to operate properly? Perhaps I need a higher source of power to resolve the stuttering?

u/Melfalik · 1 pointr/oculus

I had a similar problem with an active extension. A powered usb hub solved my problem. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VDVCQ84/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/kschang · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

So buy ONE USB-hub with 10 ports. Simple enough?

Anker 7-port USB3 hub, plus 3 USB power ports for charging stuff This would also keep power bricks and such off your power strip. Don't need them with this on your desk.

u/ProtectedVoid · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

I really like this one:


I've had zero issues. Only gripe is that it requires external power.

u/pounceapex · 1 pointr/PS4

I use a powered hub which works wonderfully. The only thing you can't do with it is plug in am external hard drive (the PS4 will not allow it to be used plugged into a hub).

I use this one:
Anker 10-Port 60W USB 3.0 Hub... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VDVCQ84?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/tdastru · 1 pointr/protools

Like I realize this isn't Thunderbolt, but would something like this help me out?

u/zikol88 · 1 pointr/buildapc

How about the Anker 5 port charger, which has 5 ports just for charging and no data ports. Or, if you still need some for data, the Anker 10 port hub, which has 3 purely charging ports and 7 data ports.

u/trevinshu97 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Oh yes this is perfect. Just what I was looking for though when I went to the site I saw one that has 10 USB 3.0 ports from Anker. Doesn't have the SD card reader which I am okay with but would you recommend this one?


u/remembertosmilebot · 1 pointr/techsupport

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Here are your smile-ified links:





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u/TacticalBastard · 1 pointr/laptops

I use this one

u/AWildDragon · 1 pointr/hardware

Anker makes a few good ones. This has three charging ports and 7 data ports. They have other sizes if you dont need that many ports.

u/RandomUserD · 1 pointr/hardware

That's their old model. These are the new ones: 1

(Not saying the old models are bad)

u/smiller171 · 1 pointr/oculus

Wirecutter recommends this one generally, but for only a couple devices probably not best


u/JGBronx · 1 pointr/Surface

A powered USB hub may work (despite not being recommended). I would not use any of the other ports on the hub while using the display to avoid bandwidth issues. If you do get the one I linked below, plug the monitor into one of the PowerIQ ports and it should charge. There might be smaller powered USB hubs, but the key is to find one that supports 2A per USB port to get the monitor to charge.


Edit: I have the MB16AC model and it works perfectly fine with my Surface Pro 4.

u/Randomacts · 1 pointr/ipad

I just tested with my thinkpad x240 on the 'charging' optimized port or w/e bullshit (it has a battery icon) and it worked so I don't need anything fancy like a thunderbolt --> usb c cable to make it work at least.

Basically it sounds like I just need something like this https://www.amazon.com/Anker-PowerIQ-Charging-MacBook-Surface/dp/B00VDVCQ84/

I'll go ahead and buy it now

u/gzunk · 1 pointr/buildapc

There are Anker USB hubs that might work for you. 7 data ports and 3 2.1A charging ports.

u/Itchy_Asshole · 1 pointr/buildapc

Maybe. It depends on how the software that dock uses and how your pc handles usb monitors. one of three options. It lets the graphics card do the heavy lifting and spits it out the usb (Ideal). It ignores the graphics card and uses the integrated graphics (okay for office work), or it doesn't reliably keep an image up due to using usb for the data (pointless). I agree with /u/jamvanderloeff, get a simple usb 3.0 hub and call it a day. I suggest this and if you dont want the fast charging capabilities, get this

u/samfreez · 1 pointr/techsupport


That's the one I'd get, personally. It's a bit of overkill, perhaps, but that's a good thing IMO.

u/oxleyca · 1 pointr/DIY

Hey all,

I'm currently using a ModTable desk from Multitable. It's an adjustable sit-to-stand desk that has you bring-your-own-tabletop. It accepts a varying size of tabletop too.

After using an IKEA $15 top for a year, I'm looking to change. I want something that's more custom to my needs.

Tools I have to work with: Fortunately I have access to a well stocked, communal woodshop. Drill press, SawStop, jointer, planer, drum sander, spindle sander, belt sander, and more.

Dimensions I'm looking to end up with: ~59-60" x 30-36" x 1.25-1.5"

Features: Cable management grommets, embedded 3.5mm jack for audio (using female-to-female adapter that i have), and embedded USB hub (of which I have this one)

What I know: Not much. I know how to square blocks of wood using combination of planer/drum sander, jointer, and table saw. I know and have access to hole saw bits for the grommets. Other than that, I'm green.

Not sure the best process to join however many pieces it'll take to equal the depth of the tabletop, how to do and make the embedded parts look good, stain/coat/finish, etc. Looking for advice for that. :)

u/dRumMzZ · 1 pointr/oculus

I can't say anything about the device you bought, but Anker's 10 Port 60W Data Hub works great for me (I'm using it on a laptop).
Pretty sure yours will be good enough but if you have a lot of peripherals to connect to it (besides the Rift stuff), it might not work completely, so try to connect only the bare minimum and then add stuff in to see if it stops working correctly.