(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best padlocks & hasps

80TI is a fun, reasonably tough pick.

410 LOTO can be a tough one too, don’t turn it into a rattle toy!

I really like recommending the Paclock 90A for Green: good quality, variety of security pins, their President is on here and a cool guy, but best of all it sets you up nicely to pick an American 1100 (de facto standard for Blue belt). It’s also easy to gut, and can be found on Amazon.

My favorite was the Abus 75IB/50. It’s a fun pick, a lot of folk’s first dimple (it was mine), it’s affordable, and available on Amazon. It’s where I discovered my love for dimples, YMMV.

> I am telling you NOT all combinations of text are possible through automation of ANY kind including brute force random number generation

All combinations up to any finite length. Per wc -c, the Project Gutenberg works of Shakespeare file I downloaded is 5,589,887 characters long. So let's take a nice round six million as a target length.

Now consider a combination lock like this one, with four dials on the bottom. Since every dial can take one of 10 values (digits 0-9), four dials gives us 10^4, or 10,000, possibilities. Yes, random sampling, given enough time, would saturate that set of possibilities. The probability of any given one of those 10,000 options being chosen is 1/10,000. An infinitely long process just randomly choosing settings will open the lock eventually. We don't need random sampling to get any number, rather any number in a finite set of possibilities.

Now mentally consider a lock whose dials also have letters and punctuation, plus a space. There are 95 printable ASCII characters, and we chose a target length of six million characters. So there are 95^6,000,000 possible printable ASCII files 10^6 characters long. A big number, sure, so the probability of any specific outcome is 1 over that number, just as before. A small probability for each number, but still non-zero. Any non-zero probability converges to a probability of one as the number of tries converges towards infinity.

Consider too the ordering. Any ordering of his works would still be his works, just in a different order. Per Wikipedia's page,

>>His extant works, including collaborations, consist of approximately 39 plays, 154 sonnets, two long narrative poems

39+154+2 is 195, and there are 195! ways (the factorial of 195) ways of ordering 195 works. That's a pretty big number, 2.59 x 10^363. So that many of the 95^6,000,000 possible 6-million-long-character ASCII files would still constitute being "the works of Shakespeare."

I'd recommend reading The Library of Babel, in this collection or this one by Borges for a great literary exploration of this idea. For a more rigorous approach to the mathematical ideas Borges explored, I'd recommend the fascinating book The Unimaginable Mathematics of Borges' Library of Babel.

At 3 miles, you could walk that in 45 minutes, so 15-30 minutes to ride each way depending on the hill. Good that you are planning it now, instead of waiting till later. I think the first thing you need is a feasible route. Perhaps you already do, but it is more pleasant to ride without a car behind one. So perhaps you can ride much of it on roads that are less busy and likely have a lower speed limit. Google Maps has a bicycle option so you could see what that suggests. When you get your bike (or if you can borrow one), ride the route early on a weekend morning. Check that there is someplace to lock the bike at/near the school, because you need to securely lock it. The lock deters a thief by making it more difficult, not impossible to take. The more expensive the bike looks, the more formidable the lock should look. If the front wheel has a quick-release skewer, you should secure it so something like or this

I strongly recommend a helmet. They all meet the same standards, so I buy less expensive.

There are lights that help make you visible and those that help you see the road as examples, but not recommendations.

You've thought about rain for your backpack, but you may want to consider for you too, because being soaking wet at school is no fun, rain jacket, rain pants and fenders. I have a pair of these which might be a good choice if you can carry other shoes to wear in school. Even without rain, it will seem colder when you are going downhill in the morning, so I use running gloves (full finger) some winter mornings. You can bundle up toasty warm for the mornings because you don't have to pedal that much, and then carry some of your clothes instead of wearing when you ride home, so I recommend a rack and a couple of bungee cords to help with that.

Since it is a walk-able distance, you should probably leave the water bottle, multi-tool, patch kit and pump at home on school days just to keep it simple and keep from losing those things. It probably makes sense to keep it minimal and cheap while starting out like this. If you get a floor pump with a gauge, you can use it to check the pressure once or twice a week and then learn how to feel the tires to see if they are firm enough. I've not found a mini-pump with a gauge that is universally regarded as reliable, so the pump I take with me has no gauge.

For your commute to school you shouldn't need to fuss with padded biking shorts or spandex shirts or even fingerless gloves. I rode quite a bit when I was your age without any of those. If you are looking at longer rides, then you might want to try some of those (no underwear under the biking shorts) to reduce chafing against the seat and wind resistance from floppy clothing.

I started with my smallest Stanley. I have the 60mm laminated version of it as well as this one. They feel like they have more security pins in them, but I'll have to wait until I can get it on camera. Haha! I am excited to see what they have in them (I like to wait to gut locks until it's on camera - then it s surprise for me as well). Haha!

I just got a new bike myself. Layered security seems best on top of your insurance. Good locks and layers make your bike a hassle to steal.

1. Use a cover whenever you can. Not being able to see what you bike is exactly is or what security is on it help a good bit. Cost : 30-80 USD
   
   
2. Quality Disk Break with alarm and good lock. Abus Granit Detecto X-Plus 8077 was my choice. Cost : 180 USD plus $10 for a bright colored lanyard to run from the lock to the handle bar.
   
   
3. Quality lock and chain. I went with Abus again. ABUS 37RK/80 KD Granit Extreme Lock and ABUS 14KS 6' Maximum Security Square Chain and Sleeve, 9/16" Diameter Chain Link. Cost : 130 USD and 110 USD.
   
   I have a covered car port and I lock the bike to the steel support beam. I take the disk lock alarm with me where ever I go under the seat and leave the chain locked to the pole when not in use.
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HUKQHEG
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GE9H8W
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UMCCZO
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0022ZN6M0

This lock is a cheap masterlock but suprisingly well made core. It is 6 pins full of security pins. It was difficult to pick but for $8 it was very good.

I didn't take it apart but it seemed spool heavy but if feel like there are some serrated pins. I'm relatively new to lock picking myself.

If you wanted to take the plastic shell apart I am sure you could play with the pinning and use a vice grip to pick it.


Master Lock 410GRN Green 410 Zenex Safety Padlock with Short Body, 1/4" x 1-1/2" Shackle (Pack of 1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001HWD3Q8/ref=cm_sw_r_apa_GuTnybCX0JS8V

Don't lock your bike up outside over night.

If you absolutely have to make sure to use what's called an "insurance lock" in the EU. A lock from Medeco or ABUS that's meant for this sort of application will work, such as this or this lock. They can't easily be cut, can not be shimmed at all, and the people who are capable of picking a disc detainer or dual-axis cylinder aren't the type of people who are stealing bikes.

A lock is only as good as the chain it's binding. You want at a minimum what's called "Grade 70" chain, or the "Transport chain" in trucking. You'll want a couple feet of it at a 5/8" square link thickness, the one I linked is round and just an example of the grade you want. It's the alloy used to tie down loads to trucks. It's a high carbon alloy with a yellow zinc coating to make it easily recognizable to state troopers on the highway. When thiefs see that coating they move on to the next bike because they know their small manual bolt cutters are useless unless they're The Hulk... or cool with potentially bleeding out on the pavement. With that said, there are some crazy and crazy strong people out there who can get through even harder alloys than that with big enough bolt cutters. That's why you want to keep your chain short, tight and high. This way it's harder to rest the cutters on the ground and balance/leverage it under your foot. Don't buy your chain from a sporting goods store; more than likely those generic chains are not rated. Never use a cable chain to secure your bike, the ones with the plastic coating. With carbide hacksaw blade I can rip through one of those in seconds.

A chain is only as good as how you have it secured to your bike. Make sure you're wrapping it around the down-tube of your bike. Never the head tube, top tube, seat stays or chain stays. Also wrap it through the front wheel as well. Anyone can easily take your front wheel by undoing the front hub's quick release by hand. If it's held on with a threaded pin anyone can take it off with a simple wrench too. As I said before, short, tight & high.

How you secure your chain is only as good as what you're securing it to. If the post has an open top, like a parking reg sign, the bike can just be lifted over. Make sure what you're tying it to is securely lagged in to the ground and has a closed loop. If it's under a street light that's even better - but not to a street light. Never underestimate a thief's gangster in this town.

The cut-away lock is a cheapo from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H39U8T4/

The practice set (there were five of them in the set, keyed with 2-6 tumblers, re-keyable) was an eBay special. Search for "practice lock set" and you'll see a bunch of stuff like that. Honestly, though, if you're just practicing yourself and you don't need a bunch of locks kicking around, you'd be better off spending your cash on a really nice mortise practice lock like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/321484221464

I also forgot. Locks!

Three locks to bring (remember this is to discourage, and should not be considered true security, but it does help)

Master Lock 4688D TSA Accepted Cable Luggage Lock

The TSA lock. Works great to lock your bag, or when you're in a hosel with really small lock eyelets when the bigger lock wont work.

Sesamee KCR0436 Chrome Plated Marine Padlock or Master Lock 178D Set-Your-Own Combination Padlock

I personally use the Sesamee because it's a lot stronger and harder to bypass (the Master Lock has a well know bypass technique) but if you're on a budget either will work.

Bosvision Ultra-Secure 4-digit Combination Lock with 3 Feet Retractable Cable

Ignore the title, this is not "Ultra-Secure" but it is nice to use to tether your bag to a physical object so it doesn't walk away on you. I would do this on the train so I could fall asleep not having to worry that someone could just grab my bag and run. Could they cut it? Absolutely. But it stops the people who are just looking for the opportunity to grab something and run.

Depends where you are but Amazon has it pretty cheap :) https://www.amazon.com/Government-Safety-Lockout-Padlock-Zenex/dp/B001HWD3Q8/

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Hunting on eBay sometimes proves effective too for a couple at the same time to make them even cheaper

This is what I use. Should be pretty resistant to brute force with the chrome plated steel jacket and hardened steel shackle, apparently somewhat challenging to pick, and the brass nickel plated body means it should be adequately corrosion resistant. Leaves a bit more space than is ideal when paired with a 1/2 inch chain, but should be enough of a tight fit to make it a pain to get to the shackle.

There's also this which is probably more susceptible to brute force with the exposed shackle, but should be more weather resistant, and is a fair bit lighter and cheaper.

(Both of these were recommended to me by the people over at the /r/lockpicking discord. I don't know much about locks, but they're both apparently good budget options with pretty good security.)

I would recommend getting a lot of different models of locks and getting a couple of each. This gives you a couple of different key biddings for each lock in case one is particularly easy or hard and also lets you practice on many models of locks so you don't just get really good at opening one particular model. Here are the models I have and would happily recommend with included links of where I bought mine. Feel free to shop around for better deals or shorter delivery times (specifically allpadlocks.com has great prices but they are NOT fast). If you order 2 of everything on this list it comes out to ~$120. If you're going to trim something I would probably start without the 72/40 and 1105's and add those later once you have built up your skill level (plus the 1100 series has a long lead time right now because of component shortages)

Yellow belt:

• Brinks brass padlock
  
• Master 140
  
• Master 4140
  
  Orange Belt:
  
  
• Abus 55/40
  
• Master 570
  
• Master 4150
  
  Green Belt:
  
  
• Abus 72/40
  
• Master 410
  
  Blue Belt:
  
  
• American 1105

I got two of those just recently, Forbidden Island and Citadels.

I would also suggest Station Master, my third board game gift for the season.

It's a card based euro which plays well with 3-8, two is feasible but since its a game of bidding and altering values of property, 3+ is the best group size. It's surprisingly deep in terms of tactics, but light enough that anyone can pick up and learn given they can do basic arithmetic. Also its a fairly obscure game as opposed to the other games on the list above so if the person you are buying it for has a couple games already, there is little risk of them already owning a copy.

Sorry to hear about the theft. You probably don't want to deal with the hassle of selling the van, so here's what you should do, if you still plan to gig with the van:

• Get a locking metal bulkhead
  
• secure the side and rear doors with a Hidden shackle hasp and padlock
  
  You're looking at about $350 in parts, but you can probably install these yourself. Better to drop a few hundred now to save several grand later.

I spent $6 on a cable lock or gun lock. I rest the chin of the helmet on my passenger peg and loop the lock through the cracked visor and around the passenger rearset (anything metal will work).

This isn't foolproof, but its much better than simply attaching your helmet to the bike via the strap. I'm sure a decent pair of bolt cutters could snip right through this cable, but it gives some peace of mind when I am only going somewhere for a short period of time. If I am away from the bike for more than a couple hours I usually just bring my helmet with me.

A hasp like this, with mushroom head bolts: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-770-Shackle-Padlock/dp/B000LEHEO0/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000LEHEO0&pd_rd_r=CCEKJCJHY6E74P6NK45W&pd_rd_w=2WW1V&pd_rd_wg=ay2AK&psc=1&refRID=CCEKJCJHY6E74P6NK45W

And a lock like this, with a hidden shackle: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-6270KA-Shackle-Padlock/dp/B000Z36T6Q/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000Z36T6Q&pd_rd_r=YF1D8DVQSVWKKG88XYC5&pd_rd_w=1AxA3&pd_rd_wg=gvAMO&psc=1&refRID=YF1D8DVQSVWKKG88XYC5

Will give you the best security, as it's not possible to just cut off the lock. And if you use bolts with a square body, they will mate to the square holes in the hasp so someone couldn't just cut a slot into the bolt heads and twist them out.

If I can see the bike and I'm not worried about someone walking by to steal the helmet, I'll leave it on the bike. If I'm by myself and I'll have space to put the helmet on an empty chair or on a bigger table, I'll bring it inside. Otherwise I'll lock it up.

I used a gun lock like this for a while: https://www.amazon.com/FSDC-California-approved-Keyed-Cable-Lock/dp/B010IBDS04

Then I upgraded to this which has the advantage of being able to lock up my jacket as well: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8417D-Python-Keyed/dp/B000XTPNZK

I highly recommend the Python lock. It's not super high security, but it packs up really small and it's super easy to use.

For the Abus 64TI/50, I use the Peterson .040 pry bar and Peterson hook 1 in .018. Once you've picked it a few times and know the binding order, the lock becomes pretty easy to pick consistently.

The Master Lock 570 is a challenging lock due to the dead core. I recommend working your way up to this lock. The Master Lock 140, Brinks 40mm (non-brass), and Abus 55/40. For these locks I use Sparrows' BOK tension and Peterson hook 1 in .025.

Once you've got these down, you can step up to the Paclock 90A, Master Lock 410, and American 1100. For these locks I'll use the previously mentioned Peterson hook 1 in .018, Peterson hook 7 in .018, the previously mentioned Peterson .040 pry bar, and the Peterson .050 pry bar.

Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-83CS-55-300-1-4375-Inch-Zero-Bitted/dp/B009S5Y69E/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542566151&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=abus+83cs&dpPl=1&dpID=41-ZU7wirTL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/American-Lock-A5300D-Steel-Padlock/dp/B0013GBQVM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542566304&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=a5300d&dpPl=1&dpID=41H%2B3A1dyJL&ref=plSrch

The Abus is the better lock but I would recommend having it set to a key (its zero bitted which means it opens with an uncut blank) but that could add $10-$20). Some locksmiths will rekey for free if you buy through them though.

This is $17.14 and prime eligible

Fun contest idea! Thanks. :)

I have two of the Stanley padlocks right now and I haven't been able to pick either of them! Watching multiple gutting of these guys it seems to vary how many security pins are in them. Yours is actually the least amount of security pins I've seen in one yet. That being said I think they are the best dollar/security padlock on the market right now. I think the next step up in that sector is the Stanley 60mm version and above that being a Abus 83CS/50 with a Mul-T-Lock Junior MT4 (dimple in dimple) with a combined price of at least $70.

I believe it's this set I got and was happy with.

Be sure, if you're using a set of locks (rather than just one), to get them keyed alike, as in this case. There's nothing more frustrating than dealing with four or more different locks securing whatever items on a person, all of which require a different key (which must therefore be accordingly labeled so as to differentiate).

Ah ok. That changes things, but it also brings up other possible issues like power going out. Back when I was looking at locks, I thought about putting a lock box like this hidden somewhere in case my smart lock ever died and putting a key in it. That way, there is no possible way to get locked out.

Looks like there is slight DIY option called "electric strike". You could look into that. Not sure how it'd handle changing access codes for new guests though. Have you read about what other AirBnB hosts do? There's got to be a commonly used solution

American Lock padlocks are generally very good for the price.

Abloy has some cheaper offerings that would work great too.

https://www.amazon.com/Abloy-PL330-50-High-Profile/dp/B01MSM987E/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1518063391&sr=8-7&keywords=abloy

https://www.amazon.com/American-Lock-A5300D-Steel-Padlock/dp/B0013GBQVM/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1518063421&sr=1-6&keywords=american+lock

I agree, this lock was not designed to be secure, but it is advertised as secure.

From the amazon listing:

>★ DURABLE ★- Bear the pull 280 lb. from horizontal or vertical, 3 grades resistance falling. it will not open, It is impossible to destroy by hand, please set the time reasonably.

Not sure about cuffs but a simple time release lock can be used to secure restraints. there are fancier options but the ice lock is pretty much foolproof and I would be wary of using anything that might fail to unlock for self bondage unless you have a backup escape plan.

No. If you really want one, you can pick one up at Amazon for less than 10 bucks. Interestingly enough, you can also get them that go to 9,999 for cheap too. They even come in metal, are produced better than you would be able to pay for, and have multiple other uses.

Link

yay for gifts

thanks for the contest!

You can get a dozen 72/40s for 44$ And repin the hell out of them. https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Safety-Padlock-Orange-Keyed/dp/B01N2U5VDS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=abus+72%2F40+12&qid=1568399917&s=hi&sr=1-3

The Abus has a tight keyway, just FYI.

The 1100 American is an awesome lock. you can pull all the pins out and get some great practice.

In that case, the padlock is not strong enough for storing valuable items like the laptop or camera. Those wheely deals are not secure at all. One of these would be much better.

Master Lock 140Q fits Pelican cases great and give you four locks which share the same key.

I highly recommend that you trade out those 3 smaller combo locks for ones that are a bit stronger. Yours appear to be the same size as the ones I used to use and they are easily broken open. All you have to do is firmly grasp the lock and violently jerk on it and it pops right open. I've personally tested it out on both of these locks....

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-643D-Combination-16-inch/dp/B000FTP1Y6/ref=pd_sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=07BTB8FCRPVGF37F3EKE


http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-627D-Luggage-Combination/dp/B000T4FL7Y/ref=pd_sim_hi_1?ie=UTF8&refRID=1V0QTNMGDG9PQH63RKZT

For the tougher luggage style locks you can wrap 550 cord around the lock and use that to get extra power behind your pull.

Just wanted to give you a heads up. Good luck on your trip!

Here's a link to a bunch of 72/40s if you're looking to practice the same lock with the same bitting. It can help you learn how two identical models can have different binding order.

ABUS 72/40 Aluminum Safety Padlock Orange Keyed Alike - Long Shackle (1-1/2") - 12 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2U5VDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_qcKTDbWSB1D0K

That Pelican that leftnose linked is a much nicer case, but I picked this one up when it was on sale for $60. It protected my gun well on the few flights its been on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E2217I6/

I also used these locks with it. 3 locks that can all open with the same key.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G7P3A2W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I started picking dimple locks with an ABUS 751B/50. It was a great lock on which to learn dimples. Amazon link

I like the Abus padlocks. Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/ABUS-64TI-40-3-PACK-Titalium/dp/B00G7P3A2W

You can use a regular student permit ($178?) for both your motorcycle and car. UTAPS sells a "permit holder" (a plastic thing) for about $10. When I ride my motorbike, I lock the permit holder to my bike. I used to use an over-sized pad lock, but last semester I saw people using cable locks which is a MUCH better solution (link below). When I drive my car, I put the permit holder in the lower right corner of my windshield.

https://www.amazon.com/Masterlock-Cable-Lock-Keyed-Diff/dp/B0002IN1PQ/ref=zg_bs_517822_9?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=3K0JB1CXPXH0DBH4DXK3

If all you have is a motorcycle permit, you will need to pay for the daily parking permit.

You can also get them like this where the loop goes securely over the doorknob. That way it's not permanently installed anywhere and your landlord has nothing to say about it.

Here is that exact lock but green.. it's $ 0.56 cheaper than the red one. Or if you don't care about prime you can get it for $7.90 and save $1.09 per lock, compared to the red colored ones

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B001HWD3Q8/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

Here are some more pictures of the cutaway lock http://www.amazon.com/Cutaway-Practice-Padlock-training-Locksmith/dp/B00H39U8T4

Yeah, I've liked playing around with the ultimate challenge lock, but so far it seems so much roomier than any other lock I've tried to pick. That little U-Haul round lock was really tight trying to work in; quite a bit different than the feel of the ultimate challenge lock.

Pretty simple really! I went the affordable route after getting tired of seeing $80 shovel mounts on Amazon. I spent around $20 bucks in total for the mount. Here's another photo with a different angle.

I just went down to my local Home Depot and bought some conduit hangers. 2" hangers for my Thule MOAB IIRC. I sprayed them black to blend in a bit better since they come in silver.

Then I attached these rubber tool clamps to the conduit hangers using 1" #10 screws and washers.

So I wouldn't mess up the basket, I used some leftover rubber hose from my AOS install to act as a padding between the conduit hangers and basket.

I opted for a small cable lock to keep it from being stolen/tampered with.

I went with the Bully Tools 92510 12-Gauge Round Point Shovel Fiberglass D-Grip Handle because of it's sturdy construction. This thing is crazy strong.

This off amazon. Seems like it should be sufficient

Spoil yourself with this - http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8417D-Adjustable-Locking/dp/B000XTPNZK/ref=sr_1_30?ie=UTF8&qid=1371731874&sr=8-30&keywords=master+lock

and lock your closet up and keep the key on you. Keep all valuables in there.

Interestingly, that Amazon page linked to a Master lock that looks like the one he broke into

The Stanley S828-160 is relatively inexpensive, easy to find, and should be plenty if your main concern is bolt cutters: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V5IYT2

https://www.amazon.ca/64TI-40-3-PACK-KA-Titalium/dp/B00G7P3A2W/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1500127784&sr=1-1&keywords=abus+lock

1.5" but very high quality compared with master lock. Also not combo, but at least key'd alike. I bought these to lock ammo cans and they work ok on the 30 cal ones.

> Have a spare kit in your car at all times.

^^ This is important. Part of my routine is stopping at the gym on the way home from work. Can't go home 'till I hit the gym, that's my rule. Doesn't matter whether I hit the weights hard for an hour, or just walk on a treadmill for 20 minutes.

Exactly what's in your kit isn't so important, as long as it includes everything you'll need when you're at the gym. Here's mine:

• gym bag
  
• water bottle
  
• spare headphones
  
• athletic shoes
  
• spare socks, underwear, shirt, shorts
  
• deodorant
  
• towel
  
• combo lock
  
  I like this combination lock because I'll never forget the combo:
  https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009V1WMA

I bought an anti-theft motorcycle alarm, it's triggered by any vibration or movement. I lock it up with some heavy duty chain and an "impenetrable" lock. I live in Chicago and it's worked pretty well for me thus far.

​

Anti-Theft alarm: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MFBV7TW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Heavy Duty Chain: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005UMC8BW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Steel Padlock: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001V5IYT2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

that doesn't seem right.
https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-64TI-50-KD-Titalium/dp/B00G7P3BQM/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F3YQATJK4528FBQBQE30
64ti/50 - 2 inch body 5/16 shackle 5 pin

https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-64TI-40-3-PACK-Titalium/dp/B00G7P3A2W/ref=pd_sim_60_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F3YQATJK4528FBQBQE30
64TI/40 - 1.5 inch body 1/4 shackle 5 pins

https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-64TI-30-2-PACK-Titalium/dp/B00G7P382E/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X424QKR4ZJBS6G9JRCPT
64TI/30 1.25 body 3/16 shackle 4 pins

only thing different is second number. The second number seems to deal with both the body and the shackle. And even though the first number is the same for all 3, the first two has 5 pins and the last one has 4 pins. Nothing on the types of pin in description

some of those are stupid expensive outside the US though, brinks 40mm in USA $7 on amazon uk £40 ($50)

You could get the sparrows progressive lock set shipped from canada for about the same.

edit: I think OP's USA based but it might help others to know

How about these they each have two standard pins and two security pins. These are actually pretty challenging since you must set both standard pins before you get a false set. I personally have a master no 140 and the first time I tried to pick it to took me 20 mins, and that was when I gave up and randomly started pushing pins. Using the master 140 really helped me to develop the subtle clicks when setting the standard pins. Even though I've had that lock for a couple of months and have picked it many times, every now and then it'll tell me to go fuck myself and refuse to be picked, so I guess you can say I'm still learning from it haha. For even more of a challenge look up master no 150.

Also watch this video it really helped me when I was first starting out.

Thanks. Yes, tension was critical. It’s either a Tron or Atilla. I don’t remember which. I have a few of both. The next lock is this monster. He’s sitting on my bench now. Stanley

ABUS Granit is a serious lock, but is around 130 USD. You have to really, really want it to get through the lock without a key.

This is not a lock you want to cut/grind. It is pickable, but not easy to pick.

I was thinking the same, but hey here is a cheaper idea for you (another i considered) - 12 cylinders shipped $44 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N2U5VDS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ovzDDb3YAYPH1

You will have a bunch of lock bodies as leftovers..

I recently moved cross-country and went with the American A5300 for my shipping container.

Also see this post on a similar topic.

whoops, 3.60 each but still. I assume you bought 3 12 lock keyed alike lots? https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Safety-Padlock-Orange-Keyed/dp/B01N2U5VDS/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=abus+72%2F40&qid=1565666042&s=gateway&sr=8-9

Get this chain https://www.amazon.com/Schlage-12mm-Noose-Security-Chain/dp/B00X6E0NO0?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

Use this lock https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Hardware-S828-160-Shrouded-Hardened/dp/B001V5IYT2?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XTPNZK/ wrap it around, pull it snug, bam, switch is locked to the dock.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-178D-Combination-Padlock/dp/B0009V1WMA/

Mine were $30 each, the heavy duty real estate agent ones.

These:

https://www.amazon.com/Kidde-AccessPoint-001166-Portable-Titanium/dp/B000CEMQLK/ref=sr_1_10?

case + locks = locking case

What are you thoughts on this one?

https://www.amazon.com/American-Lock-A5300D-Steel-Padlock/dp/B0013GBQVM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1497784496&sr=8-4&keywords=American+Locks

Are these any good?

Those slow down opportunity thieves, some one like a roommate could cut through one in a few minutes with an exacto knife. I drilled 2 halfinch holes in tge bottom of the case and put a large masterlock cable lock through them.

If you're worried about theft, I suggest the bungee to the back seat, plus a cable gun lock (padlock with a long flexible loop).
Any sporting goods/firearm shop should have, here's an amazon one: https://www.amazon.ca/MasterLock-Keyed-Difference-Cable-Lock/dp/B0002IN1PQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1462913102&sr=8-5&keywords=cable+lock

buy this

Put through jacket sleeve, helmet, handlebars, and lock it.

I don't know, just a thought. Defeats the stealing shit but not the destroying shit part.

Something around 10-20$ would be good. I am just really paranoid because someone broke into my locker once and when try to do research for locks, there were only guides to cracking them.

I decided to buy this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004SQLH/ref=ox_ya_oh_product

The American lock is going to be the Gary to your Ash for a while. You will need a decent amount of practice before you can tackle it but here's the secrets to opening one for the day you're ready:

• You want top of the keyway tension. Preferably with a prybar (best ones here and here). The amount of pressure you'll be putting on the wrench will barely put a dent on the skin of your finger.
  
  
• When you pick, your goal will NOT be setting one stack at a time. Your goal will instead be looking for feedback. This might sound confusing, but the American lock has security pins on the top ("driver" pins) and security pins on the bottom ("key" pins). If your goal is to set a stack, then you will very likely overset it and bind on the keypin.
  
  
• When looking for feedback, gently run your pick across the stacks. If you feel the tension wrench vibrate while scraping in a certain area, the binding driver pin is caught between the plug and the housing (Diagram here).
  
  
• GENTLY lift. Pins in the American lock are nasty. You want enough pressure to only get ONE click. Once you get that click, keep moving and keep looking for feedback. Internally, it should look like this. Notice how he's not looking to raise each stack to the shear line, instead, he's searching for feedback every time he gets a click.
  
  
• Be confident. That lock is just pieces of metal. You just gotta move some pieces out of the way to open it up, and that's it. You'll pop that American lock in no time after some practice!
  
  If you want a good list of locks to lead you progressively up to the 1100, here's my list:
  
  
• Master No. 3 (or Chinese variant). Walmart usually has these. Generally 4 pins.
  
  
• Master 150: 2-3 spools, just to get a feel for them. 5 pins.
  
  
• Master 570: No spring tension on the core, get your introduction to "top of the keyway" (TOK) tension here.
  
  
• Abus 72/40 or variant. You want something with 6 pins and at least 4 spools. This will teach you the importance of dealing with restricted keyways. You may need a slimline pick in 0.015". I personally use the Euro hook from Sparrows. Alternatively, SouthOrd has a Slimline set of picks for this occasion. Peterson too.
  
  
• Master 410 Lock-Out-Tag-Out ("LOTO"): No spring tension on core, 5 pins, and a mix of serrated and spools. What their typical pins look like here.
  
  
• Master 6835: Same guts as above, but with heavy spring tension. This will teach you to test vary your tension as you pick.
  
  Now you should be ready to kick that American 1105's ass!

Call CPS on them.
Report the neighbors kids are always unsupervised and explain how they break into your yard and throw rocks at your house.

Locking all your gates is a necessity here. I suggest getting a simple combo lock so you can quickly open without a key.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-178D-Set-Your-Own-Combination/dp/B0009V1WMA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469887015&sr=8-2&keywords=combo+lock

If you want to get fancier and can install a deadbolt on your gates then this is awesome: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O4OV318/ref=twister_B00QQ8KLK4?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1


Get a camera for your outside, backyard, gates, and front. This way you can record them trespassing and you can record them stealing your packages. Cops will have to act with video.

Definitely put up no trespassing signs.

Sorry for the bad new :(

After my experience with the smaller version I went and picked up the 60mm and lol, it is a mammoth! The full brass version is cheaper than the plated brass version and that should be the full size core that you would find in a Euro lock format.

Happened to me in Capreol last year. My Wifes Kayak. We had photos of it and plastered it all over facebook and i believe i posted it here as well. We ended up getting it back because we tracked it down ourselves and turned the heat up. Local law enforcement was a joke when it came to it. It was taken by some rather unsavoury people that have their hands in MANY dealings, which we reported to LEO's and they seemed to not give a shit. When we got it back, it was found in the bushed no more then 200m from their back yard....

As for ways to lock it up a simple cable lock should do. It can be put through the drain hole. Not fool proof, but still an inconvenience to anyone trying to steal it.

https://www.amazon.ca/Master-Lock-8417D-Adjustable-Locking/dp/B000XTPNZK/ref=sr_1_2?s=sports&ie=UTF8&qid=1498155537&sr=1-2&keywords=kayak+lock