Well, this turned out longer than I though. Sorry about the wall of text.

Hey man, congrats on enrolling. Once you start going and notice how good you feel it will be hard NOT to go. The hardest part is forming the habit. Also, a lot of people overdue it when they first start and end up extremely sore and in turn - don't go back. So take it easy at first and ease your body into it.

Since I’m bored at work I’m just going to ramble along here about what I use.
For attire I wear Adidas tank tops and Champion basketball shorts – both I got off Amazon.

If you’re not comfortable in a tank top then a normal shirt will do. I just find having sleeves to be annoying when working my upper body – but that’s just preference.

I'd suggest a good pair of cross training shoes (not running shoes). I linked the Reebok crossfit shoes as I definitely recommend them. They are super light, sturdy, and fantastic for working out. I've had the same pair for 6 years and they just won't quit.

I'd also suggest and iPod or other small Mp3 device. Most people use headphones and I must say I can't workout without it. Just walk in, crank up the tunes, and do your thing. Most people do the same and it really helps you focus and tune out all that's going on around you.

I wear gloves, but not everyone does. During heavier lifting sessions my hands get torn up, to prevent it I wear gloves. Not mandatory, but something that may interest you.

Water bottle – make sure you bring a big water bottle. I use this one. But anything will do as long as it’s big enough. Drinking water is extremely important.

Towel, most gyms sell hand towels. It’s good etiquette to use, especially if you sweat a lot.

Gym bag - I use this one. It's small, holds my shoes, workout clothes, etc. and the water bottle I linked above fits perfectly in the mesh compartment. This is obviously optional but I found it extremely beneficial to have.

Lock – I use this one to lock my car keys/phone up in one of the gym lockers when I get there. Not necessary but you will need to carry your keys/phone/etc during your workout.

Routines (routines vary indefinitely) depending on your goals, preferences, etc. I’ll give you my schedule so you at least have an idea, but please know there are virtually endless workouts you can do.

I focus on working my way up the body throughout the week. I generally workout 3 days per week for about an hour and a half. Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday are the days I go but again this is totally my schedule. I go Monday and Tuesday because I’m rested from the weekend, break Wendesday to rest, and then finish up Thursday and give my body a rest Friday – Monday. Please keep in mind this is my schedule and yours can be anything you want it to be.

When I get to the gym I do 5-10 minutes on the elliptical, rower, or stairs to warm up and break a sweat. After warming up I stretch out (important to deep stretch after your body is warm, not before it) – this is a full body stretch, not just the body parts I’m working out that day.

After about 10-15mins of stretching I get into my workout. Again, focus on warming up the muscle group before you start to add any type of heavier weight.

I work the following muscle groups on the following days:

Monday – Legs/Core (3-4 exercises per muscle group)

Tuesday – Chest/Back (3-4 exercises per muscle group)

Thursday – Arms/Shoulders (3-4 exercises per muscle group)

After the workout – depending on my current goals, I’ll do some Cardio (usually 10-30 minutes or so). I rotate between the elliptical, bike, stair master, and sauna.

If I can suggest one thing over all else it’s to familiarize yourself with the exercises for each of the main muscle groups and how to do them correctly – emphasis on correctly. You can go to google and type in “Back workout” and you’ll find endless back workouts. Pick out 3-4 exercises for each muscle group, watch some videos on Youtube, and get an idea of how to do it.

To give you a starting point, 3 exercises per muscle group and do 3 sets of 10-15 reps per after your warmup set.
Every day I see people in the gym trying to lift more weight then they can do correctly, and in turn their form is terrible. Bad form is a fast-track to injury. Focus on doing the exercise correctly and then up the weight from there.

One thing to keep in mind is the body will adapt to your routines if you don’t adjust them. There are tons of workouts for each muscle group. Spend some time up front educating yourself about the exercises and build a few different routines. Don’t be afraid to bring a note pad with your routing written down – people do it all the time. It’s actually a good way to keep yourself accountable. You can record the weight you lifted, the date, etc. It’s a good way to see progress.

I’m sure I missed a lot but hopefully this helps. Try not to be overwhelmed. Take it slow and just know the gym is a really positive environment.

Cheers

Edit: Formatting and spelling

Alright, so this is risky -recommending these picks with the admin here, but I've got my reasons.

This set right here was my first lock picking set. It has everything you need to attack low security locks, but you do need to put some work into them with some sandpaper. Here is my 30 minute video review. I think I cover everything in this video if you feel like dedicating your time.

If you have more money in the budget, Southord sells a decent set for about $25 US. Link

Also, I really love Sparrows stuff. They're great for higher security locks and their tools are very presentable to any prying eyes. Plus, they require much less finishing. Here are a few good beginner kits:

One

Two

BTW, here's a copy-pasta that I made if you live in the US and want to order from Sparrows:

To get the most bang out of your buck, you want to spend more than $24.72 (total). This is because the Canadian currency's value is less than the US currency's value. Math below.

Break-even point where $CAD = $USD for Sparrows Lock Picks:

Conversion rate: $1 CAD ~ $0.78 USD

Shipping rate: $6.99 CAD

0.78(x + 6.99) = x

0.78x + (0.78)(6.99) = x

(0.78)(6.99) = 0.22x

(0.78)(6.99)/0.22 = x

x ~ $24.72 CAD and USD.

Of course, you could always PM me, and I could put together a list of stuff to fit your budget.

Locks to pick

• Beginner: Easily found at Walmart. Low security, 4 pins. You can learn Top of Keyway (TOK) and Bottom of Keyway (BOK) very easily on this. This has low tolerance machining, but the great news is that you could feel the pins setting! Plus they're nice and cheap. Master No. 3 and No. 5 are good beginner locks, but unfortunately, they're super expensive relative to Walmart security.
  
  
• Advanced: This is where you start hitting security pins. This will have 2 spools out of 4 pins total, but you will absolutely feel them. Many would recommend the Master 140, but personally, those spools are too low quality and 1 spool out of 4 pins is not enough to get a good feel.
  
  Feel free to ask me anything!

Agreed on the full charge before riding it which will almost certainly take 6+ hours depending how much charge it has when it arrives.

The throttle has a variety of settings that make it work properly with the scooter (e.g. it knows how to properly assess distance ridden and battery power and so on). My Zero 10x came with a sheet spelling it out. As it happened, RevRides, who I bought it from, had already made the settings but something to check (once set correctly you never want to mess with them).

There are also a few user changeable settings for the ride you want such as how strong the regen braking is, how much torque it'll give on acceleration, miles or kilometer display and so on. I went with middle-of-the-road settings myself but this is all a matter of user preference so know they are there and fiddle with them till you get it all as you want. NOTE: I was encouraged to leave auto-pilot off till I became experienced with the scooter which I did.

Know that this is lightyears more powerful than the Lime scooter. Give it some respect when you first start riding. Leave it in Mode 1 (of three) "low" speed setting, only one motor active, Eco on and have a whirl. You'll get used to it quickly but the torque and acceleration can be surprising. Top speed too once you engage higher speed modes.

Also, and maybe this was just mine, but I find the brakes to be really touchy. Like they grab pretty hard even with a light touch which wants to throw me forward. No accidents or anything but at 60 miles ridden the brakes are still touchy on mine and a bit uncomfortable (read jerky when first applied). Just something to watch out for till you get used to it. I hope it is just a matter of breaking them in some more and/or getting more used to modulating them properly. That or perhaps my local bike shop can lighten them up a bit (bicycle brakes so they are familiar with them).

I have found no reason to carry a charger with me. These charge up pretty slowly so charging on the go won't get you much compared to some smaller scooters. Leave a charger at the office and one at home and you should be fine. It has a pretty long range so should be good for most jaunts on a single charge. Of course YMMV depending on your needs and use.

As for locking it up realize you are parking $1500 on the street and this will catch people's eyes. Cable locks are close to worthless (they can be gotten through with a hand-held, concealable tool in seconds). After much looking and asking I settled on Master Lock Cuffs. I clamp one end to the stem, below the control cables and the other to the bike rack. It will stop anyone unless they go at it with an angle grinder (which some might but not likely in public during the day). I am getting a handlebar bag where I will carry it but till then they are fine in my backpack (a little heavy but no biggie). Nothing is perfect but these are pretty good.

Enjoy!

Thanks! I'll look into BikeLink!

Yes, it's both the weight and the dimensions. The Dart has a really spacious deck. Nice for riding, a bit awkward for maneuvering. I hear ewheels is coming out with trolley wheels soon. That may help a bit, but I still think it's too large to take in most places. It's fine for stairs at home --> to work, though. Certainly not something I'll be stashing under the table at a restaurant like I did with the Glion.

Wheels are mostly covered, so locking through them is out with any serious lock. I got StreetCuffs based on somebody's recommendation here, and I think they'll work out well enough. I think the best place to lock will be around the little neck between the deck and the actual pole, right around where the foot pedal to fold is. If I fold it up, it would be impossible to even unfold the thing with the cuffs on. A U-Lock could work in this area as well.


These are the StreetCuffs: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Street-9-Hardened-8290DPS/dp/B0009V1WQQ/

I didn't get the rapid charger. It does take awhile to charge, but so far the battery has lasted as much as I've needed it to in a day and I'm content to just let it charge overnight.

Good luck with whatever you choose! I really do love the Dart - if you can find a way to live around the size, it is a fantastic ride for the price!

Some quick thoughts:

REMOVE:

• kleen kanteen - bottled water is available everywhere for 30 cents or so
  
• macbook - it's huge and heavy. Just use your smartphone and computers at hostels
  
• router (since you won't have the macbook)
  
• tripod - if you're hardcore about photography I guess, but I'd personally leave it at home
  
• ATH-M50 headphones - too big. Just bring earbuds instead
  
• knife - no reason you need it and it will be a pain on airlines
  
  Clothing: Are you staying only in SEA asia? If so,
  
  
• remove the rain jacket and just bring a small umbrella. I brought a marmot precip with me and never really used it because you just get too hot in it.
  
  ADD:
  
  
• More t-shirts, or buy them there ($3-$4 a shirt). Preferably performance fabrics (nylon/etc). You will sweat more than you ever have in your life and it's easy to go through 2 a day.
  
• 1 nice button-down shirt. Linen or a linen-cotton blend would be a good option, in solid light blue. You at some point will end up at a nicer restaurant/club/etc. Something like this one from gap or this one from banana or this one from uniqlo could work.
  
• 1 pair of long technical pants. Find something that doubles as dressy pants - I'm a huge fan of the Prana Brions in charcoal grey that I just bought since they don't have crazy pockets, are slim, etc. You'll need pants in 3 main occasions I can think of: (1) for dressier occasions as mentioned above, (2) at temples that don't allow entrance with shorts, (3) for hikes in areas where there is a lot of underbrush
  
• Lots of sunscreen, especially if it's SPF50+. Sunscreen is expensive in SEA, and hard to find > SPF30 at times. The best deal I saw was a big pack of Neutrogena at Costco.
  
• insect repellant
  
• Anker (or similar) backup battery for your smart phone - this will let you charge the battery during the day and then later toss the battery+phone in your hostel locker at night so you don't have to worry about it being stolen. Also great for long bus and train rides.
  
  CHECK:
  
  
• make sure that your combination lock isn't a full sized one, or the shackle won't fit into the small locker holes at hostels. The TSA ones are a little bit flimsy. I found this one that I felt was a good compromise. (3/16" shackle, no key to lose, etc).

Not sure why your post got downvoted (hopefully that will be corrected as more people see your post), but welcome to the community! Those were great locks to start with. Just the right amount of challenge.

If you're looking for ideas where to go next, I'd suggest looking at the lock list that will be posted by a bot in a reply to this message when I suggest you take a stab! at some more difficult locks, and see if any look good. There is also the belt ranking list which is far mor comprehensive.

I particularly enjoyed the Abus 55/40 which is a good tick up in difficulty from the locks you've been opening but will still be within your abilities. You can find it on Amazon for about $6 or $7, with free shipping if you have Prime.

I have to assume the cost of a set of Best locks can be offset either by getting a bulk/commercial account deal of some kind, or simply through the interchangeability of the cores meaning the maintenance costs offset very quickly compared to having to fully replace entire less expensive locks to replace a key.

But if you only need one padlock for normal security usage, it can be kinda hard to justify costs like that. The larger all-steel American padlocks tend to be very good value, but I feel like I should give a shout-out to the A5360 it's slightly pricier but has a fully shrouded shackle, something I consider a very valuable security feature.

Also, the Abus Rock is a comparably priced and very similar padlock with a slightly better core in it.

I rarely lock up my whole backpack but almost always lock my passport, backup credit card, and any other valuables. Yeah, lockers do vary so I tend to carry two sizes: a standard school-locker type and a smaller option. I tend to use the smaller one more frequently as it can also be used to lock the zipper on my backpack during bus journeys or in the absence of a locker.

​

As others have said though, the lock is really just a deterrent and won't stop anyone who is really determined to get into your stuff, but it's about the least you can do regarding security so it's worth it. Typically hostel thefts are crimes of opportunity and most would-be thieves are just going to look for an easy target.

I also use toolboxes to store my collection for privacy purposes and they function perfectly. This is my current toolbox and these are the locks I use on it, they are smaller luggage locks as the holes on the toolbox are smaller than normal. If you need a slightly smaller and cheaper box I would also recommend this toolbox and this lock as I had used them in the past. Note that when using these boxes you may want to lay a microfiber cloth or something on the bottom of them so that your toys don't get potentially damaged being placed directly on the metal surfaces. Best of luck!

-notebook

-sleep mask

-ear plugs

-travel power strip: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H4YTHWG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

-tsa luggage locks

-retractable cable lock (for hostel locker and securing your bag on train racks, etc) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BD69G0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_meWOBbKBCGDYM
-microfiber towel

-cheap flip flops for hostel showers

-sleeping bag liner

-hanging toiletry bag (hard to find counter real estate)

-travel utensil (handy for picnics, i know it’ll be december so maybe indoor picnics..)

-collapsible water bottle

-student id if you have one (museum discounts, etc.)

-keychain flashlight (so you don’t wake up your roomies)

-ziplock bags

-upload important docs to google drive.. passport, reservations, tickets, front and back of credit cards

-travel insurance? world nomads is great

-downy wrinkle spray is king

-hand sanitizer

-condoms

-sunglasses

-i constantly forget regular headphones for flights cause i use my bluetooth ones normally

-definitely compression packing cubes

-a credit card with no travel fees :)

On the return policy - you're right, they allow for return if there's a defect... there's absolutely no satisfaction guarantee though.

The lock they include is this: https://www.amazon.com/Combi-Cam-7850R-L-Combination-Chrome-Finish/dp/B000W7DBWA/ just in black. Is yours different? That little metal tab is meant to keep your desk drawer locked - not something I'd use for this type of application.

The boxes that are chained to your seat frame are like $30-$50. For $270, I'd expect better. As for how long I leave it unlocked - sometimes the whole time I'm in the car? Since it took up my whole console, sometimes I'd leave it unlocked to get to paperwork or while there's no firearm inside.

The fact that it's designed to fit and installs in minutes was the big appeal to me - and that's worth a lot. I installed it in like 5 minutes. That said, my current vehicle doesn't have an application specific box and has a huge console, so I think it's going to get this one on one side of the inside of the console with a custom bracket to affix it to the same bolts that hold the console in place: https://www.amazon.com/Fort-Knox-Personal-Handgun-Pistol/dp/B015D82XAS

You can get some good (for practise) Masterlocks on Amazon for pretty cheap. Apparently the safety locks are really good for practise as they have some security pins in them.

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-40DPF-Shielded-Stainless/dp/B00004SQKX

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001927I94/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_2?qid=1458397269&sr=8-2-spell&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=master+safrty+lock&th=1&psc=1
Try these out

Unfortunately I don't think that there's another solution that would produce an acceptable result. Personally I'd measure the thickness of the door and shop for a new lock to suit.
Here we go, from Amazon:

Cam Lock

Available sizes For Material Thickness:
5/8" cylinders fit up to 3/8" material
7/8" cylinders fit up to 5/8" material
1-1/8" cylinders fit up to 7/8" material
1-3/8" cylinders fit up to 1-1/8" material

Also I'd suggest a set of These which make measuring things like this really easy and they are cheap!

If you felt pretty comfortable with that Orange Belt Abus, maybe you should try a $12 green belt: Abus Titalium 80Ti. I have a couple of these and they are enjoyable picks.

Kinda depends on your goals though. I feel like I've been recommending this way too much lately, but a Sparrows Revolver would probably be an incredible training lock right now for getting incrementally better at security pins. If you master the Revolver with a difficult pin load out, it would be easy to graduate to the blue American 1100s.

I would recommend getting a lot of different models of locks and getting a couple of each. This gives you a couple of different key biddings for each lock in case one is particularly easy or hard and also lets you practice on many models of locks so you don't just get really good at opening one particular model. Here are the models I have and would happily recommend with included links of where I bought mine. Feel free to shop around for better deals or shorter delivery times (specifically allpadlocks.com has great prices but they are NOT fast). If you order 2 of everything on this list it comes out to ~$120. If you're going to trim something I would probably start without the 72/40 and 1105's and add those later once you have built up your skill level (plus the 1100 series has a long lead time right now because of component shortages)

Yellow belt:

• Brinks brass padlock
  
• Master 140
  
• Master 4140
  
  Orange Belt:
  
  
• Abus 55/40
  
• Master 570
  
• Master 4150
  
  Green Belt:
  
  
• Abus 72/40
  
• Master 410
  
  Blue Belt:
  
  
• American 1105

This is exactly what I would recommend as well. Although if you can grab a cutaway lock over an acrylic, I think they’re a bit better. But you’ll soon be done with both so it’s probably a moot point. Then I’d go MasterLock #3 and then into MasterLock 140, both are pretty available either online or in stores.

MasterLock #3 are $6 on Amazon.

MasterLock 140 are $7 on Amazon.

I'll second the American 1100, but add the Abus 80ti/50 to that list -- good tolerance, six pins with a serrated, four spools, and a T-pin, and they're only ~$12. Officially they're green belt locks, but I think they hold their own against a number of the blue belt locks.

In addition to the Master 410 LOTO, you also might consider looking for a PacLock PL410-Pro (~$16), which is basically a 7-pin version with better tolerances. They're available online, but some Home Depots are starting to stock them.

Ace Hardware stores typically carry some decent 1.5" brass padlocks made for them by Brinks -- they're generally cheap and are loaded with spools. Sometimes you can even find an A527, which is a clone of the American Lock 700.

Sorry to hear about the theft. You probably don't want to deal with the hassle of selling the van, so here's what you should do, if you still plan to gig with the van:

• Get a locking metal bulkhead
  
• secure the side and rear doors with a Hidden shackle hasp and padlock
  
  You're looking at about $350 in parts, but you can probably install these yourself. Better to drop a few hundred now to save several grand later.

In order from my progression:

Master 140

Brinks

Abus

American

Now it's a fairly large jump from brinks to abus so I recommend getting a few more brinks and masters first. Just get a different model with "higher" security every time until you think you are up for it.

I pulled these links off amazon for pictures and whatnot, I'm sure you can get a better deal anywhere so do some searching before you buy.

Edit: Forgot to mention the helpful sidebar!

I got a Ziotek Chassis lock to prevent people from opening the case, to quickly steal the GPU. Yes, anyone can bypass these lock, but it would be more challenging than just having thumb screws.


I plan on, within a few weeks, drill a small hole at the back of the chassis, enough to fit one of these padlock using this security cable , tied down to either the bed or desk.

• edit: nvm, I don't think you can do this to your rosewill challenger. I can with my R4 because it has a side panel hand scoop thingy(don't know the technical term) where I can drill a hole Like this

A hasp like this, with mushroom head bolts: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-770-Shackle-Padlock/dp/B000LEHEO0/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000LEHEO0&pd_rd_r=CCEKJCJHY6E74P6NK45W&pd_rd_w=2WW1V&pd_rd_wg=ay2AK&psc=1&refRID=CCEKJCJHY6E74P6NK45W

And a lock like this, with a hidden shackle: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-6270KA-Shackle-Padlock/dp/B000Z36T6Q/ref=pd_bxgy_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000Z36T6Q&pd_rd_r=YF1D8DVQSVWKKG88XYC5&pd_rd_w=1AxA3&pd_rd_wg=gvAMO&psc=1&refRID=YF1D8DVQSVWKKG88XYC5

Will give you the best security, as it's not possible to just cut off the lock. And if you use bolts with a square body, they will mate to the square holes in the hasp so someone couldn't just cut a slot into the bolt heads and twist them out.

For the Abus 64TI/50, I use the Peterson .040 pry bar and Peterson hook 1 in .018. Once you've picked it a few times and know the binding order, the lock becomes pretty easy to pick consistently.

The Master Lock 570 is a challenging lock due to the dead core. I recommend working your way up to this lock. The Master Lock 140, Brinks 40mm (non-brass), and Abus 55/40. For these locks I use Sparrows' BOK tension and Peterson hook 1 in .025.

Once you've got these down, you can step up to the Paclock 90A, Master Lock 410, and American 1100. For these locks I'll use the previously mentioned Peterson hook 1 in .018, Peterson hook 7 in .018, the previously mentioned Peterson .040 pry bar, and the Peterson .050 pry bar.

Good luck!

https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-83CS-55-300-1-4375-Inch-Zero-Bitted/dp/B009S5Y69E/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542566151&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=abus+83cs&dpPl=1&dpID=41-ZU7wirTL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/American-Lock-A5300D-Steel-Padlock/dp/B0013GBQVM/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542566304&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=a5300d&dpPl=1&dpID=41H%2B3A1dyJL&ref=plSrch

The Abus is the better lock but I would recommend having it set to a key (its zero bitted which means it opens with an uncut blank) but that could add $10-$20). Some locksmiths will rekey for free if you buy through them though.

Today I ordered a couple locks from Amazon that are pretty cheap. The Abus 80TI/50 (green belt) is $13.11 right now.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00G7P3FYA/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1520483379&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Abus

I also ordered an American 1106 (blue belt) for $9.87

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B015MG09E8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_60_img_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YDTCDD4HSFGP6KAZBZ5H

I wanted to get a few locks that are progressively harder to practice on and learn more about security pins, found good prices on these and couldn't pass them up.

I work out at a pool. I generally just toss my bag on the bleachers and swim. Anyone could walk out with my keys, phone, everything. They just... don't.

That said I do know a thing or two about locks due to my profession. And locks... only keep honest people honest. This is the only kind of lock I've ever met that I couldn't shim. And I did eventually get it apart - though not without some time, effort and specialized tools. Also I was trying to save the lock itself. If I'd just been willing to use a bolt cutter I'd get through it in ten seconds.

But you don't have to run faster than the bear, you just have to run faster than your friend. If your locker isn't the easiest to hit, they'll likely hit someone else's.

I have two of the Stanley padlocks right now and I haven't been able to pick either of them! Watching multiple gutting of these guys it seems to vary how many security pins are in them. Yours is actually the least amount of security pins I've seen in one yet. That being said I think they are the best dollar/security padlock on the market right now. I think the next step up in that sector is the Stanley 60mm version and above that being a Abus 83CS/50 with a Mul-T-Lock Junior MT4 (dimple in dimple) with a combined price of at least $70.

First off familiarize yourself with the four rules of firearm safety

>Treat all guns as if they are loaded.

>Never let the muzzle cover anything you are not willing to destroy.

>Keep your finger off the trigger until your sights are on the target.

>Be sure of your target and what is beyond it.

sounds like a safe is out of the question, if so you can pick these up a couple of gunvault breech lock kits or these.

second you can pick up a universal gun cleaning kit, hoppes no. 9 cleaning solvent, and cleaning patches online or at your local Walmart.

I use one of these cable locks. It's small enough to fit in my tankbag and on the rare occasion I'm not confident in just leaving stuff laying, will run it through a jacket sleeve, helmet D-ring, and solid part of the bike. The one I have is several years old so it wasn't available in disco colors.

You could also get an inexpensive bike cable lock that's a bit more substantial but not as easy to carry.

Yes, if someone wants your gear they can cut the cable if they brought such tools along for the task. But the only thing I've ever had taken from my bike was a Winston Rodeo Award denim jacket on loan from my brother that I left in a saddlebag that someone took back in 74 while parked in my apartment in Dallas.

I've flown with a good size padlock several times.

ABUS 64TI/50 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G7P3BQM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_smmzDbFJSWY70

Also usually bring a couple good quality carabiners (I like the locking ones).

I got one of those they are great. You can just put extra long screws and some kind of spacer to get them out farther. (I used small plastic pipe as the spacer)

Also I got these https://www.amazon.ca/Combi-Cam-7850R-L-Combination-Chrome-Finish/dp/B000W7DBWA

Just make sure you buy the right sized one. Much easier than only one set of keys.

It's not perfect but it will keep the rif Raf out.

A full enclosed rack is better if you can do it of course

Definitely is sketchy. When I use to workout there I got myself one of the Round Padlock that’s used for storage lockers. Lol. Not sure if Crunch or GoodLife is any better in Jackson?

You two should try Masterlock 141D's. They're practically everywhere, easy to pick, and give great feedback when setting the pins.

​

Link to Amazon's 141D listing for reference.

Something I've never tried but have heard often is to bring a bike lock or cable lock and string it through your helmet and through your jacket arms. Then just secure it to the handle bars.

Better than nothing.

I'm not sure about most states but in California you are required to either have a safe or you must buy a firearm lock like this http://amzn.com/B000LX86RU

I really like the Stanley locks personally. They are rekeyable, bit an arm and a leg, and really nice. I own three of them. (2 60mm padlocks and a 50mm with shackle guard). The 50mm is under 16.00 even. Here are the three I have purchased that I am really happy with:

50mm w/ shackle guard

60mm w/ shackle guard

60mm fat padlock

That being said, if it is a storage unit that is enclosed, I would have no problem using a normal Chateaux discus lock. I use the Chateaux C970 discus lock, but now that I have found the 50mm stanley with shackle guard I am going to start using them since they are actually a little cheaper than the Chateaux and gives me the option to key it any way I like (thanks to the removable cylinder).

HTH

Alright, I don't know what conditions or environments the lock is gonna be in, but here's my two suggestions.
The American is a bit harder to pick, but slightly less physically strong as it lacks the shackle guard. It is however made out of solid steel.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V5IYW4/?coliid=I2W5VXJN39AN2D&colid=10884BQRHBHB8&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

https://www.amazon.com/American-Lock-A5200D-Solid-Padlock/dp/B009YO0CF6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=american+5200&qid=1551362477&s=hi&sr=1-2

This was me after like 2 days with a cheap lock pick set from amazon.

Got the Master Lock from a local grocery store for $8...I would suggest gettin a different lock if you want to keep your things lol

If someone really wants to get in, they will. Lockers don’t hold big enough shackles for you to have much physical resistance, and someone could just break the cheap locker door or hinges regardless.

That being said, I agree with u/stab_in_the_eye. American 1100s are light, decently strong, impressively cheap, and will take some time and decent skill to pick (not astroturfing). They can be bought here, and this color (Master Lock Influence, priced by color) is currently on sale for some reason.

EDIT: Also, if you don’t think the longer shackle on the 1106 will fit, this one has a shorter shackle, but is (Master Lock!) priced... higher?

If I where you I'd try out a master lock 140 to step it up a bit. In comparison to the #3 they feel a lot better and give you better response in my opinion. Master 140

Abus locks are the way to go. 30 bucks or so is what I have found some good ones. I can sometimes rake American locks, and picking them is way easier than abus locks. The master lock you have can be jiggled open practically, or a little poky can be inserted in the third spinner and it will open, or you can use a probe and feel when they are in place.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009S5Y69E/

If this fits it is what I would suggest. But they have cheaper ones. It shows the size specs on the pics I think.

Thanks!

Just to confirm, something like this?

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-3BLU-Lockout-Padlock/dp/B0010E70XK/

Master Locks with the blue band are extremely easy to pick. I would highly recommend them for beginning lock-pickers. You can basically rake the pins with any hook and it'll pop open.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8290DPS-22-inch-9-Link/dp/B0009V1WQQ

These are pretty sweet and not that easy to get through unless you bring some serious tools!

I have one of these in my closet, and I lock it with one of these speed locks. That way I don't need to look for a key or fumble with a combination lock in the middle of the night. Secure, but easy to do just by touch.

This is the best I've found. It folds into a small enough package to put on the hip of your pants.

It can't be cut with cable Cutters due to the material in shape.

The cuff parts are wrapped in rubber so they don't scratch your onewheel.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Street-9-Hardened-8290DPS/dp/B0009V1WQQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541963733&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=handcuff+bike+lock

Something like this TSA Luggage Locks (2 Pack) - 4 Digit Combination Steel Padlocks - Approved Travel Lock for Suitcases & Baggage - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0114C1TM0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_k.KXAb4AFSJVC

Easy solution : buy a power bar with a timer, plug the router in it, put that in a metal locking box.

Timer power bar
Metal lock box
Padlock

They are coated with rubber so no scratch and intimidating as they look like cuffs. Attach them to your frame and bike seat support for easy carry.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Street-9-Hardened-8290DPS/dp/B0009V1WQQ

Buy an ammo canister

Then get a cord lock/gun lock. Feed trough the hole on the clamp and the little handle thing or drill hole in top and side. Keep key for lock safe.

> Mechanical locks cannot have customizable number of back and forth turns.

Just gonna leave that here: http://www.masterlock.com/personal-use/product/1500iD

And that:
> Users can create their own easy to remember, resettable combination consisting of any number of movements in any sequence.

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-1500iD-Combination-Assorted/dp/B002TSN4SQ

And that:
http://www.h-i-r.net/2010/01/review-master-1500id-speed-dial-lock.html

Here is the non-mobile link from the comment above
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This bot is supported by the referral link above. If you wish to not use a referral link, you may use this link instead.

I first picked a Master Lock #3 Link and this Link. The second one is neet for learning as it has a big key way and only 4 pins. You can single pin pick it or rake the shit out of it. I got them both from target.

I don't know any bypass or decode for the Master Lock 1500iD Speed Dial. It's not the most rugged lock in the world, anyone with bolt cutters could pop it, but it does use a mechanical hashing function for the combination that is clever.

Maybe someone else here knows one?

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TSN4SQ/

I like this one because you don't need to carry a key, and you can perform the combination easily even in the most delirious of post-workout fugue states.

Abus Titalium 80Ti/50. 12 Bucks on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-80TI-50-Titalium-Aluminum/dp/B00G7P3FYA/

Or if you want really good one in that range, Abus has their big bad boy 90/50 Titalium for like 48 bucks on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/90-50-Titalium-Stainless-Shackle/dp/B009S5YBUS/

I was given a few cable locks meant for securing guns. Something like this. I use one for locking my helmet to my bike.

Uncle Bob's used to do a name your price for the first month where you can literally pay a penny for the first month. Public Storage has a $1 special for the first month. In both cases after the first month you pay the "normal" rate. At Public storage there is a one time Administration fee (I think $15) and I am pretty sure Uncle Bob's does the same.

The normal monthly fee can vary widely within the same company, this is do to location. Wanna store at the Public Storage on 6th street? That's gonna cost ya so shop around in terms of location. The flip side of that is some of the cheapest rates are in the worst part of town and get broken into more frequently than the nicer more expensive areas of town. The people that work there will try to sell you insurance (optional but if you decline it you have to sign a waiver stating if your stuff is damaged or stolen you won't sue) and a lock like this. You can bring your own lock if you have one or buy one somewhere else but it has to be the type of lock in the link. This is for your benefit as these type of locks are pretty easy to cut and get your shit stolen.

My wife is a manager at Public Storage and an ex-manager at Uncle Bob's. She told me a funny story about working at Uncle Bob's when they were running the name your own price. Some guy walks in and asks how much a 5x10 was she quotes him the regular price and explains the special. He named his price as the regular going rate. She just wrote up the paperwork and told him to sign on the line.

I’m from Denmark, and I had the same problem, and ended up buying this:


Master Lock Safety M/Lock Lockout Padlock-RED 410RED, One-Size https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00192092C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xXiQDbXHZKZFA

Since I couldn’t find it anywhere cheaper, in the EU!

Hope this helps! :)

I have used the Master Lock 1500iD for a couple of years. It's very easy to use. It's a directional combination lock.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B002TSN4SQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000Z36T6Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_rIbMAbBENJKNF

The description and general appearance looks like they stuck their 410 core in something useful. Can't confirm, don't own one.

Careful, that listing is only for ONE lock (BLUE). American Locks are hard to find on Amazon.ca. Amazon.com (US) has them for $10 each and ships to Canada (or if near the border, find a friend to ship to and pick up):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015MG09E8

tough one, I just tried it with a very small travel lock (similar to this) and it didn't fit through the opening on the metal part of the zipper pull. Putting it through the paracord would be pretty pointless. I think the only thing you could fit through the zipper pulls would be a cable lock. Better than nothing, I suppose, but not very safe..

Running 1/4" shackle. I recommend getting 1" - 1.5" shackle length. Bought American Lock from Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/American-Lock-A1106YLW-Padlock-Aluminum/dp/B015MG09E8/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1510819926&sr=1-1&keywords=american+lock

Had them all re-keyed so I just need 1 key so I didn't need to carry multiple keys to open one case.

Get a couple of these, and put them inside your locker. Makes finding things in the middle of the night much easier. I also had one in my rack for reading with, the normal rack light was just too bright.

Doubling up on curtians is nice, but people will probably steal them at some point. A much safer plan is to take the existing curtians, take them to a tailor out in town, and have them add a layer or two of cloth. After that, put them back in your rack, and put a small screw in the track that they hang from. With that $0.05 piece of hardware, your curtians are safe from all but the most determined of berthing thieves.

Also, these padlocks were phenomenal. They're opened by sliding the button up, down, left, or right. No fumbling with keys or squinting at combinations in the dark. I had mine set to a quick up-down, and could have my locker open and be halfway dressed by the time my neighbor was spinning his padlock to the 3rd number.

Edit: One last thing, get a small carabiner to hang your loofah or shower sponge from your towel bar. Keeping it in your locker or stuffing it at the foot of your rack is just begging for mildew.

This is an excellent bike lock.


Here's a seriously skilled locksmith's review of it.

Here's a link to a green one for $12.16 USD 😁
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005UMCJRA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xsKTDbJNETXNT

And abus 80ti/50, also green belt, for $12.20 USD
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G7P3FYA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HwKTDbTVC4FEQ

I use this stupid hard chain covered in an old mountain bike tube with a [fancy titanium alloy lock] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00G7P3FYA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1). It's much more bang for your buck than a krytonite or some other ludicrously expensive "bike chain".

It's kinda overkill really but I was super nervous about theft when I moved into the city.

I'd turn around and walk out.

I keep very little of my gear in my locker, I keep all my guitars and main amps at either my folk's house or the studio. But I keep my tech. cases, boats, a few amps, and now, almost everything I own from my apt.

I can't tell you how many guys/bands I know/see that store their stuff in 24 hour access, and put a fucking Master lock on it, thinking because they got the one with the yellow rubber coating that it's a tough lock. Then they're surprised when they go to get their gear for their next show, and their locker's been emptied. (And guess what? It happened 10 minutes after they loaded it in there.)

I also can't tell you how many times I've told smaller acts pulling a trailer to spend sixty bucks on a better lock, back it against a wall, and pull the coil wire.

I get an indoor locker and put this on it. They'd have to tear the door off to get in there, unless they've got a few hours to try to work it.

From what I can tell that looks like it would only have regular pins in it, you could try this master "practice" lock http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-410RED-Different-Lockout/dp/B00192092C/ref=pd_sim_328_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41H6icC6SRL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR144%2C160_&refRID=0Z7VXWRM2GXGV0VF6WY7 its got mostly spool pins witch is good for practice

I would see if this kind of lock would fit and use it. I'd like to see someone cleanly cut that. I may actually switch my lock to this.
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-40DPF-Shielded-Stainless/dp/B00004SQKX/ref=sr_1_8?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1454177043&sr=1-8&keywords=padlock

I have one of the Titalium locks, and they're pretty nifty, but I think they might be counterproductive for hostels. As soon as your lock calls attention to itself, you've lost the biggest battle. Those locks are harder to pick, but even a weaker lock will already be stronger than the brackets and/or hinges in your average hostel locker.

I'd recommend this. It has the same shackle diameter as the Titalium 64TI/30, but it's far less conspicuous. It also doesn't have a TSA key bypass like most luggage-style locks.

Get one with a key, they're a lot harder to crack.

Something like this
http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-140D-Different-Padlock/dp/B00004SQL7/ref=zg_bs_511386_5

Don't get one with a thin wire.

You could use a combination cam lock like this

Combi-Cam 7850R-L Combination Cam Lock, 1-1/8 Chrome Finish https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000W7DBWA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1ExcBbHJB04SK

Something like this would work.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000Z36T6Q/ref=redir_mdp_mobile

As far as the lock goes, I recommend this:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005UM98YM/ref=mp_s_a_1_27?qid=1373583570&sr=8-27&pi=AC_SX112_SY192

These have a spinning drill plate that prevent drilling very well. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001V5IYW4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3dp7Cb51WXGPP

that doesn't seem right.
https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-64TI-50-KD-Titalium/dp/B00G7P3BQM/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F3YQATJK4528FBQBQE30
64ti/50 - 2 inch body 5/16 shackle 5 pin

https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-64TI-40-3-PACK-Titalium/dp/B00G7P3A2W/ref=pd_sim_60_6?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=F3YQATJK4528FBQBQE30
64TI/40 - 1.5 inch body 1/4 shackle 5 pins

https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-64TI-30-2-PACK-Titalium/dp/B00G7P382E/ref=pd_sim_60_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X424QKR4ZJBS6G9JRCPT
64TI/30 1.25 body 3/16 shackle 4 pins

only thing different is second number. The second number seems to deal with both the body and the shackle. And even though the first number is the same for all 3, the first two has 5 pins and the last one has 4 pins. Nothing on the types of pin in description

My V-Strom came with one. I used it until I lost it. Then I started using a gun lock, which works much better--I can put the lock around the chinbar and part of the bike.

...though I have a top box so the lock is easy to carry.

That's curious. I have never purchased one of those.

I use about 4 of these in rotation.

I just bought 4 of these on amazon

Master Lock 140D Solid Brass Keyed Different Padlock with 1-9/16-Inch Wide Body, 1/4-Inch Shackle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004SQL7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_x.SVBb77BTH8P

Are these similar to the 140. Or something completely different

Not OP, but a fellow XR owner. My solution was to hide away a kill switch. This combined with a cable and lock, and have never had a problem in the City. You can probably go without lock and chain in a small town, but I don't want someone picking up my bike and tossing it in their truck. Better safe than sorry

I have one like this that I keep in my pack:
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-4605D-3-Foot-Retractable/dp/B000BD69G0
It's not much, but it prevents the quick "grab and run" kind of deal. It's more likely someone will see that and move on to the next bike.

Well does anybody have an opinion on....

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8290DPS-22-inch-9-Link/dp/B0009V1WQQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409950430&sr=8-1&keywords=handcuff+bike+lock

Have you considered one of these? My coworker has a $2000+ bike and he locks it up with something similar. Im not sure the exact model of his lock. I was wondering if it was more or less secure than a u lock.

Here is the link to the lock on amazon!

No. That is not the right one, but it is a variant. The lock you have linked is the master keyed version. You want this one:


https://www.masterlock.com/business-use/product/410RED


Here it is on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Government-Safety-Lockout-Padlock-Zenex/dp/B00192092C/

Yes but it would be so cliched to use it as expected. I would pair the pirate map with this lock

The [Masterlock street cuff locks](Master Lock Street Cuff Locks, 9-Hardened Steel Links, 22 in. Long, 8290DPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009V1WQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dtUPBbV592QP5) are pretty damn good. But, if someone really wants to steal your stuff they will come prepared with a grinder, sawzall, bolt cutters, plasma torch, etc.

Pick the American 1100 for a blue belt. Amazon has it in yellow for $9.68. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015MG09E8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_evtJzb30VMHB0

Is that the same as the 140D?

Master Lock 140D Solid Brass Keyed Different Padlock with 1-9/16-Inch Wide Body, 7/8-Inch Shackle https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00004SQL7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_iHy7CbTYN3PPZ

If he didn't have much trouble with the Abus, maybe try one of these for the next one?

If one did this, one might consider a padlock such as this, as it is harder to cut with bolt cutters.

Again, not that anyone here would recommend such conduct.

Good point, I've just avoided ulocks since then. The masterlock motorcycle cuffs seem to do the trick for me.

https://www.amazon.com/Government-Safety-Lockout-Padlock-Zenex/dp/B00192092C?ref=dp_atch_dss_sdp_ce_1

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00192092C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_SYAwDb06N4RGK

I'm considering this lock for the same purpose.

Here you go: Masterlock Street Cuffs

Or you could buy a pair of these...

I'll be the lookout while you sneak them through the back stairwell.

Or on second thought...

Is this what you are looking for?

I don't use one (or any lock) but if I did I'd be looking at one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Street-9-Hardened-8290DPS/dp/B0009V1WQQ

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Street-9-Hardened-8290DPS/dp/B0009V1WQQ

Master Lock Street Cuffs

It says "masterlock 140" for one of the first recommendations. Is that the same as the 140D?

Here you go.

Bike cuffs
I wonder if those are harder to break then a u-lock.

I use this for lockers and this for my storage unit.

I bought a $5 lock and it is much sturdier than the one in the video

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Padlock-Aluminum-141D/dp/B00004Y8C6/ref=sr_1_5?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1520903501&sr=1-5&keywords=lock

https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-40DPF-Shielded-Stainless/dp/B00004SQKX

It's a bike lock you know.. http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8290DPS-22-Inch-9-Link/dp/B0009V1WQQ

This?

http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-3BLU-Lockout-Padlock/dp/B0010E70XK

Master 410 $9
Green belt

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00192092C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519436048&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=master+lock+410

Wow that sucks. To help deter that from happening again at the gym get a disk lock they are more difficult to cut with bolt cutters. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00004SQKX/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1416160152&sr=8-1

I usually put it by my feet because I'm paranoid and afraid someone might take it, especially when traveling. I also prefer to do this so I won't forget about it.

For larger bags, I've also purchased cable locks on Amazon that will allow me to attach my bag to the railing. Note that it's not really super sturdy, it's really more of a deterrent.

This is what I got - https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Combination-Assorted-4605D/dp/B000BD69G0

The Master Lock 8290DPS 22-inch 9-Link Street Cuffs Lock. I put it around the front truck and post when making quick stops at the store https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009V1WQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_SvXOGkxpKcSsR

I used these locks when I owned my motorcycle. I believe they have a shorter version for bicycles. They're big and bulky but Master Lock has an anti-theft guarantee that they will reimburse you X amount of money if someone does actually cut/break the lock and steal your bike.

Someone climbing on top of a truck to cut a cable lock is a bit more suspicious than one messing around with of a thousand bikes in a bike rack.

Also, gun cable locks typically have hardened steel bodies that aren't exactly bike lock material.

Get away from U locks

If you come back to the same place every night then invest in a kryptonite chain, vs a U lock. Even with a angle grinder it is much harder to find a static place to cut on these chains, vs a U lock.

I actually stopped using U locks entirely, after seeing how easy it is to pop them. Thieves in cities are experts at just using leverage to pop them in seconds. It is much heavier to lug the chan but small price to pay for security.

I also use this for my front wheel if I am planning on leaving my bike for a extended period

So far my overkill locking method has prevented anyone from even attempting to mess with my bike.

Always have to worry about it unless you can hide it in a garage, and even then, people can see you driving it and parking it inside. There is no way to prevent a theft, just convince the casual theives to leave it alone.

A lot of sling owners use https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Street-9-Hardened-8290DPS/dp/B0009V1WQQ/ and cut the wheel all the way to one side before putting them on.

Try covering it to hide it at a minimum.

Putting a keyless start like https://allthingsslingshot.com/products/keyless-ignition-for-the-polaris-slingshot to dissuade

Maybe a motion alarm with GPS as well?

I'm pretty rural and where I park mine can't be seen, plus I have a large dog that is very friendly but looks frightening, so I haven't put an alarm on mine.

-edit- fixed link

Heard good things about these as well. If someone really wants your shit, and comes prepared, they’re going to get it. Grinder/sawzall would easily defeat damn near anything.

Buy a pelican case. Just put up the damn $50 for a case large enough for your gun and a couple other items, and then get high quality lock (NOT MASTER LOCK) like an Abus Titalium (virtually unpickable).

It makes flying with a gun so much better. You only need the one lock on the smaller Pelicans.

Factory gun cases are garbage, a Pelican with a dessicant packet in it will keep your gun totally sealed from the elements.

https://www.amazon.com/ABUS-80TI-50-KD-Titalium/dp/B00G7P3FYA

https://www.amazon.com/Pelican-1200-Camera-Equipment-Multi-Purpose/dp/B0002INQT2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1482780940&sr=8-2&keywords=pelican+case


You're in those two for under $50 total.