(Part 3) Reddit mentions: The best power tool saw accessories

Own one and used it for a number of projects. Great saw for the money.

I have upgraded a couple things so far :

Bought a good quality blade, I went with a Freud thin-kerf blade from Amazon

Bought a zero clearance insert to fit the new blade. Really nice to have for cutting small pieces.

Upgraded the miter Gauge, bought a nice Incra. The stock one is crap.

Amazon links : Blade and Miter Gauge

Tuning a table saw

Leecraft makes a ZCI for old Craftsman tablesaws The depth on my table is 3/32" which is just shy of 1/8" but you should definitely measure the depth to make sure of the dimensions you need.

Aligning the arbors is easiest with a PALS kit

The top layer looks like peel-n-stick tile that should come up very easily. The other layer looks like 'real' glue down vinyl tile that can be a bear to remove. One of these can make it a little easier. Or rent one of these

If you're into that kind of thing, Makita makes an adapter that lets them fit tracks (like festool, makita, and select others).

https://www.amazon.com/Makita-196953-0-Guide-Rail-Adapter/dp/B01GCGUTFG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1502918282&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=makita+track+saw+adapter

Helps make a damn straight cut every time.

Though if you really care about chips, you might want a slightly nicer saw.

I have a Dewalt DWX726 - https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DWX726-Rolling-Miter-Stand/dp/B0066N7C74/.

It works great as a stand, and it collapses and stands up when not in use - requiring very little space. I have a small garage so it's perfect for me. There have been a couple times where I've lent it to a friend and they were able to move it easily to be on site for their needs.

​

http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9167-Safety-5-Piece-Package/dp/B000M0AS9G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381596612&sr=8-1&keywords=push+stick

WAY safer than a shop built thing and cheap. They work great.

Totally recommend a Carter Magfence, great high quality accessory.

Ha.. That is exactly why I got them. There are 2 that I have.
This is the MicroJig one - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GB-1-GRR-Rip-Block/dp/B00DNX3N7S
And the other is the GRRRipper - http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-GR-100-GRR-Ripper/dp/B001I9UNWC
If you can afford it, get the 2 pack of the GRR Ripper. I like that one best.

It looks like this stand.

Makita WST05 Miter Saw Stand https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C0GTW9C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_TtK5yb1SPMTZ5

https://m.imgur.com/gallery/SLPak best picture i got.

First off, make sure your fence is parallel to the blade and the blade is SHARP. I always measure from the blade to the fence before cutting at the front and rear of the blade to ensure it's parallel. Also use a good push stick.

If you don't have a roving knife, some table saws can have a splitter added to a zero clearance insert. They're about $30 and worth it.

If that's not enough, there are anti kickback devices you can use. https://www.amazon.com/Yellow-One-Direction-Anti-Kickback-Safety-Rollers/dp/B004CK5HOI

Part of an abrasive grinding wheel, as is used in handheld angle grinders and stationary cut-off saws. If you spin something fast enough, the centrifugal effect (not a force--lies!) will cause it to fly apart. In this case, the operator was wearing a full-face plastic shield, in which the piece is lodged.

Lots of people (I'm looking at you, me!) don't wear adequate protection when using power tools. Many of them wind up being quite amazed at how much damage a small fragment of cast-off material can do. Even a tiny piece of fast-moving debris can destroy an eye.

About a month ago I was using a router to cut a rabbet into an old wooden frame. I didn't realize that it was held together with large, square steel nails. Like a dumb-ass, I removed the clear plastic shield on one side rather than cleaning it properly. The router bit caught the nail, scooped off a chunk, and threw it at my throat, just next to my jugular. It penetrated to 4 or 5mm. Apparently, a lot of energy was imparted to the metal by friction, and it was startlingly hot. I was surprised at how much a small piece of very hot bit of metal hurt when shot into my neck. A lot more than the room temperature nail I once fired through my left hand. My girlfriend thought I was being a wuss when I jumped up and said, "OW! OW! OW! OW!" The fragment was still warm I squeezed it out. Now I kind of get why shrapnel is so problematic.

I probably shouldn't be allowed to use power tools, but I own a lot of them, so I just keep doing it. I finally got a set of GR-RIPPER wood handlers, though, so hopefully that'll help save me from my 60's-era machinery and my bad habits.

Rockler

Kreg

Amazon

ebay

For nice stuff that I want to re-use I use the rockler ones. For one offs I use plastic 3/4" trim from home depot comes in 10 foot pieces for like a buck or just rip down a scrap piece of oak.

It really depends on the applications you're using them for.

I would recommend a circular saw before a table saw, just for budget reasons alone. There's very little you can do with a table saw that you can't do with a circular saw and guide. As for circular saws I like Hitachi, for the price. Used those professionally for years. They sell guide attachments for circular saws for pretty cheap.

I use a porter cable pancake compressor to run my cheap chinese brad nailer. As for a miter saw and table saws you get what you pay for, don't go cheap.

I don't like any black and decker power tools, makita or kobalt.

You want a miter slot, so you can use miter guages and coping sleds.

If you want a t-track as well, they make combination tracks like this.

In that case you will probably have a hard time finding that piece. eBay if you get really lucky. Maybe someone is selling a saw for parts.

You could go with an aftermarket fence system like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002261Z/

Or this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000VTPV72/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481503257&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=incra+table+saw+fence&dpPl=1&dpID=41-SRx7EY1L&ref=plSrch

You'd have to adapt it and it might be cost prohibitive

Get a 12", non slider, with the extra size you gain crosscut capacity. Cheap sliders are just that, and hard to keep aligned, as noted.

You can't go wrong with this Dewalt:
https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-12-Inch-15-Amp-Compound-DWS715/dp/B07P8QTFRC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=DWS715&qid=1572399081&s=hi&sr=8-1

Has anyone tried the Olson Saws Cool Blocks on their band saw? Like these. Did they make a difference or are these a gimmick?

Edit: Had a second question and figured I'd just tack it on here. Is there a difference in Carter urethane band saw tires vs generic orange ones that makes them worth twice as much? Would I see a tangible difference?

\> I just answered a post with this question.

And you kept answering with angle of declination and not angular velocity.

\> Perspective is linearly constant.

Yes, and that's why it doesn't match observation. The observed sun does not move in a linearly constant way. It move in an angularly constant way.

\> You're only assuming 15 degrees because you assume it moves in a circle around the observer

I'm not assuming. I'm observing. As I said in response, 15 degrees is an observation, not a calculation. Measure it yourself.

\> I'll have to figure if there's any way to measure if it's moving in a circular or straight perspective path.

The most direct way is to take a device similar to this miter gauge:

https://www.amazon.com/SKIL-Table-Replacement-Assembly-2610011708/dp/B00C1KDZCC/ref=sr_1_1?qid=1554171691&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A2801729011&s=power-hand-tools&sr=1-1

Mount it on something so that you can point the stick part at the sun. Log the time and angle. An hour later, move the stick to point to the new location of the sun. It should be 15 degrees change. And it will be 15 degrees throughout the day.

You could also use shadows. But you seem to have some weird ideas about how shadows behave, so I won't go into that.

\> There doesn't seem to be.

OMG, you're so fucking stupid.

You can purchase off amazon as well. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD1BJ

Pulley's http://www.in-lineindustries.com/products/pulleys-belts/

Zero clearance insert
Leecraft CR-1 Zero Clearance Table Saw Insert (For Craftsman/Sears)(Colors May Vary) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1BJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_UDd.Bb1K6VXRG

Splitters
MJ SPLITTER SteelPro by MICROJIG - Table Saw Safety 1/8" Kerf Splitter and Riving Knife Alternative for Zero Clearance Insert https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003E623C0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_KFd.BbY77MZRT

got google?

https://www.amazon.com/SKIL-Table-Replacement-Assembly-2610011708/dp/B00C1KDZCC

Edit: yes that's a tablesaw but it's a skil. Slots a slot, can't be that hard to find something the same width.

To add to Tsuichendist's post, you can also make specialized sleds and jigs in order to make consistent cuts while keeping your hands well away from the blade.
Amazon sells a 5-piece push kit for about $26. You can also find aftermarket splitters, but they can be expensive.

v 120

http://www.amazon.com/Incra-MITERV120-INCRA-MiterV120-Miter/dp/B001RCTTG6/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1452951508&sr=1-1&keywords=incra+v120

Here is my miter gauge fence with a stop: https://imgur.com/gallery/R31Oe

I have upgraded to an Incra miter gauge. However it's expensive. INCRA MiterV120 Miter Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001RCTTG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WSJjzb63C3QY3

But you could do that with a simple miter gauge. Just need one flat piece of wood, 3/4 thick, 2.25 inches high. 2 & 1/4 ''.