If you intend to run everything (AC, microwave, etc), you'll need a proper 30 amp RV extension cord. The regular cord / adapter will work to get the basics running, but be careful with the AC and other high draw items to ensure you don't overload / overheat it. One like this should work (but compare the ends to ensure that they match your outlet / cord): https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Extension-PowerGrip-Convenient-Carrying/dp/B004809YBE

 

If you're going to be stationary for the winter, and need that much hose, building a heated hose is your best bet. Search "diy rv heated hose" on Google, and you'll find lots of info on them (they're basically heat tape and pipe insulation).

 

The blower motor on the AC sounds exactly like the symptoms ours had just before the motor seized completely (a few days of screeching starts, and a few hand spins, then it seized completely). You'll have to double check the model that you have, but for our Coleman Mach I was able to order a new motor from Amazon for <$120, and change it myself. If I remember correctly, it was a bit of a pain to get it all apart, but it was just nuts, bolts, and screws, with a single electrical connection (be sure to turn the breaker off on to the AC unit first, and if you don't feel comfortable with electric or going on the roof, call a mobile RV tech, or take it somewhere).

 

Most propane places will sell tanks, as will BBQ / Fireplace places, RV dealers, and occasionally Costco. As someone else pointed out, Costco is about the cheapest for propane if you have one locally (and they have propane, not all of them do). If you are going to be stationary you might also check with a propane place about having a larger tank placed near the RV and connected, as it will save you some serious money / time dealing with refills over the winter. You can also check on local Buy / Sell groups or craigslist, but keep in mind that portable bottles have a date stamp and need to be re-certified every 5 years starting 12 years from their manufacture date (stamped on the side of the ring).

 

For the short queen mattress, we replaced ours with a memory foam one from Amazon. There are several manufacturers there that make them.

>and I need a charger installed on the wall. Is that right?

Since we're all Tesla nerds, the charger is actually in the car. You're installing electric vehicle service equipment (EVSE). The outlet, really.

But yeah, outside outlet is fine - that's what I'm doing. Run two 240-V lines each with a 50A breaker, or one 240-V lines with 100A breaker. There's plenty of outdoor/weatherproof covers. My existing one (for our barn, but it's a 14-50) is pretty ugly, but I'm sure you can shop around. And most are pretty wide, but again, just look for 14-50 covers. You could also do one on the left and one on the right instead of the middle pillar. Tesla has its own connector, the HPWC, for the same price as an extra UMC. So you can use a 14-50 and the included UMC and not have a spare one for the trunk, or use a UMC and buy a spare UMC, or use the HPWC and keep the UMC in the trunk. The HPWC looks nice and is weatherproof, but only works for Teslas. I'd go with the UMC for flexibility (and $500 cheaper if you don't mind not having a spare, or put it in your trunk each day).

Retractable is tough - the Model 3 UMC cable has a big blob on the 'house end', so it won't go into a reel. There are UMC organizers which make it look less crappy at least.

I'm still debating on where to put mine - my wife gave me the okay for an outlet on the front of the house, which makes things easy. Tromping to the side of the house, especially in rain, wouldn't be fun, but it would look neater. Also note the cable is only 20' (24'?) long, which isn't much, especially if you want it resting on the ground. I had a parking pad built just for the Model 3 and I still had to buy an extension cable unless I get the outlet right up to the corner of the house. Anyway, my point is that the cable will probably be pretty ugly, so I'd talk to HOA now. I refuse to live with an HOA and can do whatever I want, and even I still might do the side of my house because cables are ugly.

You can connect small devices to large circuits but you can't connect large devices to small circuits. If your welder was 50a and your garage circuits were 30a, you'd have to run new circuits.

A quick Amazon search yields a bunch of results for premade adapters.
https://www.amazon.com/Kohree-50-30-Amp-Plug-Adapter/dp/B07G55Y53V/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=50+amp+to+30+amp+adapter&qid=1564506827&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

You could also buy all the necessary components at Home Depot if you're in a hurry. You'll need some basic electrical skills. If you go this route, you'll need to use at least #10 wire. If it were me, I'd use #8 extension cord type wire, I think it's called SO cable.

Good luck!!

Charging:

• There are more chargers in Idaho than Arkanas
  
• if you get a 220v NEMA 14-50 EVSE you can charge at RV parks with 50A services. An adapter can be used for other types of outlets.
  
• Most, if not all EV, should come with a 110v NEMA 5-15 EVSE good for 3 to 4 miles an hour. If not you can buy one for less than $300 or get one that works both 110v and 220v with an adapter.
  
  Cold: will hurt range but if you can preheat and even have a 110v outlet at work you can use it shouldn't be that bad depending on miles you have to go.
  
  Options:
  
  
• can you afford a Tesla Model S or X, new or CPO?
  
• can you wait/afford a Bolt or Tesla Gen3?
  
• If less then 40miles, as much as I blame it for slowing down quick charge roll out, you can get a used first gen Volt, but it has a gas motor.
  
  Better thing is to tell us so we can have a lively argument/discussion:
  
  

1. how far do you plan to drive between power access
   
   
2. how long will the car be parked between drives with access to what type of power outlet
   
   
3. do you have a price limit?
   
   
4. do you take 'road trips' and if so do you have access to an ICE car? e.g: second car, rental, or exchange with friend or family

You won't find a dryer extension cord.

The solution is to buy an adapter that converts from the dryer outlet to a NEMA 14-50. That allows to use the charger included with your X. But, as noted, you need to dial down the current to 24A (80% of the 30Amp dryer outlet). The car's charger thinks its plugged into a 50Amp outlet, and it is, but on the end of your adapter. The car will try and draw 40Amps (80% of 50Amps) and blow the breaker on your dryer outlet. So, in the car, dial the current down to 24A.

If the cord on the charger that came with your X is not long enough, and it's pretty long, then you need a NEMA 14-50 extension cord. They are not cheap. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55194-PowerGrip-Extension-Cord/dp/B002XL2IG8/

Warning: There are two types of dryer outlets in the USA depending upon when the outlet was installed. The older one with only three pins (a 10-30 outlet), and the newer one with four pins , a 14-30. So, you should pick up a converter for both if you don't know what style dryer outlet your friend has.

Make sure you get a good cables though, don't want to start a fire. Also for the quick220, you need to use two different lines. So it might be tricky. If your friend has a dryer, you can get a 220 extension cable like this one from amazon. Hopefully their's is Nema 14-50, not 30.

> https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00STD8S7C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Tz4syb71ZFEVN

Thanks for the tip. I saw this adapter on Amazon as well. Do you think it could be just as good?

If you get a tt-30 to 14-50 adapter then MAKE SURE it is Tesla compatible. You can get this and works good. Charged 30 amp 110v for 12 hours + in 95f heat.

I would recommend cutting out reflectix insulation for windows for privacy and can be good insulation in the winter. Front sun reflector is a must as well. I lost 38 miles in 8 hours exactly with it being in the mid 70s all night.

**I would not try to convert coax to rj11, I would look at other options, like installing a line into my rig directly. Much cleaner and better signal.

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Products-08-6210-Trailer-Electronics/dp/B00MJVB5ZC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505318017&sr=8-1&keywords=rv+phone+jack

You'd need some Cat5e or Cat6 (I'd use cat6 or better personally)

However, if you are dead set on converting coax to RJ11, you can try a coax to RJ11 converting cable. It will slow your connection speed, but should work.

https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/RJ11-coaxial-cable_60336706035.html?spm=a2700.7724857.main07.249.2bd13975aYa8Ya

or a combination of RJ11 to BNC and BNC to COAX, such as:

https://www.amazon.com/Pack-Male-RJ11-Extender-Balun/dp/B01ENYEMBG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1505317913&sr=8-4&keywords=bnc+to+rj11

and

https://www.amazon.com/DHT-Electronics-coaxial-MINI-UHF-connector/dp/B00CXO2IVK/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1505317933&sr=1-7&keywords=bnc+to+coax

Either of these options will require some creative weather proofing.

I can get about an $8k tax credit where i live for this elextric vehicle so just a littlr more expensive. The minivan can plug into a regular household outlet. It just takes 12-14 hours to charge instead of the 2.

I don't suppose that means I can plug into a regular rv hookup. With an adapter like the one below maybe? There are also public charge stations available though I think they are spaced out

Yes, the 33 miles travel limit before it kicks into gas is limited. Is there another electric hybrid that can go further before it uses gas even if it's a little smaller?

If I bought a fuel based vehicle, I'd probably buy a used one. It was the electric aspect and the large battery that attracted me to this vehicle.

EDIT: Yeah, that 33 mile range is a real killer. Gonna have to look at some other electric vehicles.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00192QB3I/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1502808578&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=15+amp+to+30+amp+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41d6fEwak1L&ref=plSrch

You could also buy a 14-50 extension cord, but if you have the money, a dedicated EVSE would probably look cleaner. I have a Siemens VersiCharge myself (the '18 Leaf isn't my first EV), but you'd need yet another adapter since you don't have the right outlet for that.

Though it is not "approved" by Tesla, I have used a 50 AMP extension cord to better deal with situations like that.

get the rvparky app,

https://www.rvparky.com/

an extension cord like this could come in handy. https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Extension-PowerGrip-Convenient-Carrying/dp/B002XL2IG8/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1Y123U9WYW3S2&keywords=50+amp+rv+extension+cord&qid=1570469444&sprefix=50+a%2Caps%2C164&sr=8-3

bring a small generator along for your 110 needs, in my opinion running that would be better than running things from the car.

personally I do not care for sleeping in the car and would find rooms in places with l2 chargers.

https://www.plugshare.com/

Thanks a lot. I’m just gonna keep it simple and go with this to the dryer plug. That should work yeah?

AC Connectors [RVL14301450] RV Generator Adapter NEMA L14-30P 30Amp 4Prong Generator Locking Plug to RV/ EV /Rande NEMA 14-50R 50Amp 125/250Volt Female Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XVPV1CT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j2jbAb5SYTPEN

We are most likely going to roll the dice with a generator. I have had good experiences with them in the past so I hope it hold up.

But, this is the 50' that was recommended to me in the RV community... Your RV will come with 25' already and no one reported needing more than that last year from what I read, FYI.

Camco Heavy Duty RV Auto Extension Cord with PowerGrip Handle, Includes Convenient Carrying Strap - 50ft (10 Gauge, 30 Amp) (55197) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004809YBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c96UBbE4B439Y

Okay so question because I’m currently hooked up at a family members house with our first rig. In her backyard (where were parked) she has a septic system with two outlets (both on separate breakers, both 20AMP). One of the outlets is for the alarm and other for the pump. So I have our rig plugged into the alarm (20AMP) breaker. I run a 50ft Camco 30AMP extension cord from there (connected to the outlet using a 30AMP to 15amp small adapter, like no cord just a small 2” or so box) to the extension cord coming from the TT. Is this unsafe? If so what should I do to remedy it? I can’t get an 30AMP outlet installed here. And we won’t be staying long term, but we have to run the AC (on low) while were gone for the pets. We haven’t had an issue, just when we need to use something power heavy well turn something off in exchange. Like if we need the water heater, turn off the AC, need to microwave then turn off the water heater, etc. been here for about a month now and have only popped the breaker twice (both instances from leaving the AC while taking a shower and the water heater kicked on).

Edit:Links and formatting (took me a minute lol)

I have something like this for my solar cables. I'm sure Winegard makes larger ones, or other sizes for flat cat 5 cables.

Else, there are tons of waterproof cable bulkheads that might work.

oops i meant something like this

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076VQG1TP/

does the fact that it is wired with a 3 prong 250V imply that it is not currently grounded? and if so wouldnt this type of adapter be the easiest answer?

if there is something i am missing or dont know im all ears

One of the best things I bought for my fulltiming adventure was a backup camera (observation camera technically), a bit pricy but I can’t put a price on having a rear view mirror again.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010XWNFOM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7XF.Bb1HGYH6K

I have this one:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XL2IG8

There's a 30-foot version, but they're surprisingly bulky and heavy, about a pound per foot.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ECIP0

Whatever you get, make sure it's actually rated 50A/120kW, there are some on the market that can only do 20A or something, and the UMC will refuse to use it at all.

Here ya go

Good price too

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002QALLOQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_suvZAb83T0TQ2

I actually bought this:

Camco Heavy Duty 50 Amp RV and Auto Extension Cord with PowerGrip Handle, 6/8-Gauge, Includes Convenient Carrying Strap - 15ft (55194) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XL2IG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OpdhDbBGAK6AH

And carry it in my car when I travel. Has proven useful quite a few times.

You'd need an adapter and/or short extension cord to plug the included mobile charger into. Tesla sells the adapter for $45.

If you get an extension cord, make sure it's heavy gauge and not a cheap POS. I got this 50 amp cord and it's a beast. You'd need a 30 amp cord, though.

Sorry, I kept squirreling trying to write a response.

There are many numerous adapters for 50A (four prong) to 30A (three prong) adapters for campers. I have the one below, even though my camper is only 30A as this will allow me to use a 50A socket if I move the camper to a site that only offers 50A service. The rule of thumb is it's better to have it and not need it than to need it and not have it when it comes to power adapters. Generally speaking, in my toolbox for the camper, I have two adapters. One of the below (30A to 50A), and the other is a 30A to 15A. The 30 to 15 adapter will allow me to power up the camper, but I can't use any high load devices like the air conditioner or microwave because I'm constrained to 15A of the feeding circuit. Just because it "fits" doesn't mean I can use it all willy nilly, anyone with a camper can explain why using the microwave and the air conditioner at the same time is a bad idea.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55175-PowerGrip-Dogbone-Electrical/dp/B000BUTDCA

This is one such adapter and the way it works is that it connects neutral to neutral and ground to ground, and only one of the hots on the 4 prong makes it to the 30A connector. This is considered "safe" because it transports the neutral and the ground to the RV as expected by the RV's electronics. If a fault happens in the camper (e.g. hot shorts to chassis(ground), or hot shorts to neutral), your 30A feed breaker in the camper would pop first.

I could yammer on and on and bore everyone about differences between 30A and 50A service with respect to campers and camper power systems in general but I won't unless asked simply to save everyone from my droning on.

I still had 3 or 4 bars of charge left. I think it's not pulling the 240v with the second adapter. It seems like it's taking 2 hours for a quarter charge.

I have a list of accessories (and links) that I'm going to personally get, I'll shoot them off to you when I get back to my computer. Things like DashCam, upgraded LED lights, phone mounts, paint protections and other interior accessories.

This is what I'm planning thus far (Prices are approximate):

• NEMA 14-50 (50Amp Home Install) - $400.00
  
• 50' Extension Cable - $110.00
  
• LED Lights - $50.00
  
• Seat Covers (Maybe) - $350.00
  
• Rubber Mats (Maybe) - $200.00
  
• BlackVue 650 and constant-on OBD Connector - $375.00
  
• Tint - $350.00
  
• Pet cover for rear - $60.00
  
• Decided on XPEL and a clear front wrap -- Not sure of the prices around me
  

It is likely that they are also standard duplex outlets at the power box along with the 50 amp plug. In the rare instance that this isn't the case at any RV supply store you can purchase a converter to go from a 30 amp or 50 amp circuit to a standard outlet. Shouldn't be more than $2-3. Just make sure to bring a strip plug along with it as it will be the only outlet.

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-55233-Electrical-PowerGrip-Adapter/dp/B00192QB3I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410314617&sr=8-1&keywords=30+amp+to+20+amp+adapter

Sure, this is the one I bought: Camco Heavy Duty 50 Amp RV and Auto Extension Cord with PowerGrip Handle, 6/8-Gauge, Includes Convenient Carrying Strap - 15ft (55194) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XL2IG8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_0OXYCb8TQ3ZBG

Most of these hookups have a conventional plug as well. If you're concerned, I carry this for 50 amp and this for 30 amp hookups.

Hatchlift makes a similar kit. Reviews seem solid - anyone have experience with these?

That's true but part of that is because the 14-50 is used for a lot of things, including RV hookups (which do need to split the phases), so you can use that high amperage receptacle for other things than your dryer (it's probably the only 240V outlet in most houses, so you use it temporarily, then you have the adapter anyway and putting in a new 14-50 is cheaper than most other options and gives you more flexibility). You can get 6-50R outlets, but dryers standardized with the neutral pin for some reason.

Here's an example that illustrates why - you don't need the neutral for a 240V use case but you do for an RV.

Stumbled across this post while ensuring I had the cable I needed to power our RV. There's a 50 foot that uses the connector specified by Insomniac on amazon here:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004809YBE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The guy at my rental place said there's no issue with plugging two cables together except to be mindful of the amount of power draw due to the cable length (e.g. don't run microwave, ac and a hairdryer all at once).

There're extension cords for all kinds of plugs. It's not a problem to get ex. one rated for 50A (NEMA 14-50) and use it with adapters, that would probably be the smartest/cheapest choice...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LBY58SG

You can replace your 14-50 with an RV sub-panel. They typically include both 14-50 and a standard plug along with the corresponding breakers. Can be wired to the same 6 gauge wire and 60amp breaker likely already going to your current 14-50.

One option can be found on amazon as “PSC55GRHR”

Edit: Parallax Power Supply  PSC55GRHR 50 Amp/20 Amp Power Outlet Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009KY2YXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6ldZCb14TMEGP

Edit: Same thing, but much cheaper here. This is the exact one I have and use. Found it in my purchase history: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005FVNGBE/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_fNfZCbX2KFC09

30 AMP Extension Cord: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004809YBE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I’ve had my model 3 for more than a year and have used the Camco Power Grip Extension Cord Nema 14-50 without issue with the Gen 2 mobile charger in my garage.

do you posses a extension Cord ? throw it out the Window and you got external hookups.

The law doesn't specify the extent of the Electric System.

When I signed that paper I didn't have electric on the outside, now I have - a https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QALLOQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Power inlet to run the A/C - just drilled hole in the rear bumper.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0024ECIP0?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title

This is what I found.

Thoughts?

Power Cable

I got this one for a 14-50. I believe the same works for 14-30.

Camco Heavy Duty 50 Amp RV and... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XL2IG8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

30amp to 50amp dog bone. Camco RV Dogbone Electrical... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BUQOGI?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

They have 75' cables on Amazon.

Furrion systems are the way to go. That's what most RV manufacturers will install if they have it. https://www.amazon.com/Furrion-381556-FOS48TAPK-BL-High-Speed-Observation/dp/B010XWNFOM

It needs to be a cable with a thick enough AWG to handle 30A and it needs to have the correct connectors on it. This is an example of what (I am assuming) is needed.

TT stands for Travel Trailer and unfortunately Tesla does not make an adapter for it - but you could always use a Tesla NEMA 10-30 plug with one of these:

AC WORKS EV Charging Adapter for Tesla Use (TT-30 RV 30A to Tesla)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XHDRBBT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rpjkDb5Y17DAR

This is strange. At every campground I've ever been to the power pole at the very minimum has a standard 110 (15 or 20 amp) volt outlet. Usually there is also a 30 amp outlet and less often a 50 amp outlet too. Maybe ask them for a photo of their power connections.

Otherwise you can use and adapter such as this:
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-55233-Electrical-PowerGrip-Adapter/dp/B00192QB3I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1495037845&sr=8-4&keywords=rv+30+amp+to+15+adapter

My grandmother lives in a town that has no public chargers. I would probably have to get one of these, drive around to the back of the house, open the basement window, and plug into the dryer outlet. (I have really thought about this.)

The charger will charge the battery from an outlet when I am plugged into shore power. The "plug" that I have installed is just a 110/15amp plug: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002QALLOQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

CCP is the customer connection point that Ford has pre-installed. It just taps into your car battery. And then I have a dual battery isolator installed right after that.

I guess that second is redundant now that I look at it more. Mainly I wanted that in there to cut all power from the battery to any loads. Mainly for when we park for awhile and won't be using the van.

Sorry this is just not accurate. There are only about ten turns of the coil here. I ran it through an inductance calculator and this coil only produces .09mH per conductor. that works out to about .04 miliTeslas at 30A current, which is about 100X less than a refrigerator magnet. So totally immaterial and no issue to use this extension, which is of course rated for this purpose.

The actual risk in a coiled wire is thermal and comes from the wire not being able to disperse heat effectively. This is not a risk for a 30’ wire with ten turns if used at or below it’s rated capacity. The one you show in the photo is rated to 20A.

But this is an expensive way to do it; you could just get a #8 extension cord and it would be a lot cheaper and avoid the coiling issue. For example here’s a 30 foot, 50A extension for about 100 bucks:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024ECIP0

If it really is a NEMA 14-50, I'm about 90% sure that Camping World has them.

Either:

30 F to 50 M

or

30 M to 50 F

would do the trick for you.

EDIT: I misread the 240 receptacle the OP had. My bad.