Reddit mentions: The best rv freshwater systems

I've got a compact RIMS machine that I built into a 19" toolbox. It's roughly the same idea as the one you linked, but all packaged up a bit tidier. I wrote a post about it a while back. Lemme find it.

Found it. Not everything necessarily relevant, but it's got a few details that helped some other folks.

> For something like a RIMS where you mostly just need to hold temperature, 110v is plenty. It's actually useful. The element is just a big resistor it doesn't really know or care what voltage runs through it. When you step down voltage by half, you actually quarter the power output (through the combination of Joule's and Ohm's laws, P=V^2 / R ). That means you can use low density elements intended for 220v operation and run them at quarter power on 110v and get super low watt densities.
>
> It's the wattage and how you distribute that through your wort that are the important parts. You want low density because you want to spread the heat out in your wort as much as possible. Higher wattage and higher density can lead to boiling and/or scorching in your tube. /u/GrizzlyBearKolsch had this problem with his setup. Luckily, his PID controller allowed him to adjust the timing enough to overcome it. I use a 220v, low-density, 4500W element, but I run it at 110v for about 1100W. It takes about half an hour to heat my strike and it fires for about half a second once every few seconds to maintain temperature. It's powerful enough to do the job, but gentle enough that it doesn't burn anything when running flat out.
>
> There are a couple of regular recommendations for PID controllers. Auber makes a well-built, well-documented model that basically the go-to for this kind of thing. If you want to spend a bit less and you're willing to put up with some really badly translated Chinese instructions, the Mypin TA4 also gets a decent amount of use.
>
> I'd recommend silicone tube for just about anything. Either three-eighths or half-inch depending on your preference. It's highly heat resistant, maintains its shape, and it's clear enough to see wort in it.
>
> Chugger or March are the perennial recommendations for pumps, but kind of overkill. I use a 12v DC solar pump for my setup. I've used this style for other builds and it has also worked pretty well. These lower power pumps are a decent fit for this kind of setup because they're compact and they're adequate flow but not so high that you need to bother throttling them.
>
> I use a separate heat stick for my boil kettle because my apartment stove can't quite boil 6+ gallons comfortably. It's a dead simple 1400W element hooked up through some drainage pipe. Just plug it in and it gets hot. Same as any other build you see on the Internet.

TL;DR: Stubborn water spots would not come off from glass cleaner, clay, steel wool, and acid! Vehicle had to be taken to a commercial detailer to remove the spots. What gives? Also, how do you use Collinite 845? I don't get the impressive results that many users seem to get. My layer of wax lasts 3-4 weeks max compared to the mentioned 3-4 months by users here and in other forums!

 

A friend of mine let me work on his new Volkwagen Golf GTI and he wanted a wash and wax. Since I don't have a lot of experience in auto detailing (even though I have a bunch of equipment), I have not been charging people who have been letting me work on their cars. I don't charge because I feel that I'm still learning and experimenting on other people's cars. The paint was generally pretty clean, didn't feel any contaminates on the paint so I didn't clay it. He already tinted his windows pretty dark.

My procedure was

• Rinse
  
• Foam (Chemical Guys Honeydew)
  
• Rinse
  
• 2 bucket hand wash
  
• Rinse
  
• Dry whole car (ONR quick detail spray to help)
  
• Apply Collinite 845
  
• Wipe off after ~20-30 minutes
  
• Clean windows with Meguiars D120 glass cleaner
  
   
  
  From looking at the windows from outside, maybe because of the tint, I didn't see any water spots. However, when he drove the car home and the setting sun hit the windows right, there were water spots ALL OVER his windows. I told him next day, I would clean his windows and I just tried the glass cleaner and some elbow grease. That didn't work. Next I tried glass cleaner, nano-skin sponge, and elbow grease. That didn't work either. Then I told him to bring it back to my house and I would use actual clay on the windows. That didn't work either! At this point, we rewashed the whole car to try and see if that would help. It didn't! We work together at a dealership and he brought it in to the shop to see what they can do. The shop tried the steel wool but it didn't remove everything. Next they tried some acid and it helped a little, but didn't remove everything.
  
   
  
  He ended up paying a detail shop $120 to redo his entire car and they removed the water spots by using a steel wool and some "pink stuff" (according to my friend). I am paying my friend $60 because I feel terrible and I pretty much caused the spots to happen. What I find odd about this is that when I wash my own cars and my girlfriend's cars, they do get water spots but they come off when I clean them. Any idea what caused the water spots on my friend's car to be so stubborn? Does the glass from different car manufacturers affect how water spots stick to it?
  
  I just bought a Camco Water Filter and will attach it to my hose/pressure washer and hope it helps. Any other recommendations on how to avoid that in the future?
  
  
   
  
  Also, I feel like maybe I'm using the Collinite 845 wrong. I've read many posts from users indicating that their 845 will last 2-3 months easily. I've only had my 845 last 3-4 weeks maximum. My friend's coating of 845 didn't last a day it seemed. After we washed his car a second time, he said it didn't feel smooth anymore, as if we stripped some of it off with the Honeydew foam. Can you guys provide me with some information about 845? I've gone through half the bottle already and I bought it February 2016... I see posts from people saying their's last years. I use this wax on daily driver cars. Personally, I can't park my car inside a garage either, so it's exposed to the elements 24/7.

Look into updating the plumbing to PEX (white /red) if possible. It's a nightmare to go behind all the fixtures, but PVC (grey pipes) gets old and if it cracks it's a major problem.

Also roof and window seals, another bane of the old RVs. Make sure they're all good, or redo them. Leaks like that, aside from mold, tend to swell anything water comes in contact with.

Fridge, furnace and water heater - clean everything as best as you can. Burners especially. For the water heater - flush it good a couple times and replace the drain plug with a zinc anode to extend its life. Upgrade them all as soon as you have the means to.

Amazon also has propane and CO detectors. Make sure they're up to date, and put at least a 50w solar trickle charge panel on the roof for your house battery, as the propane detector has the nasty habit of draining it.

Finally, I'd look into upgrading whatever furniture you can. Mostly the folding couch if there is one. Motorhomes like this are / were designed for seasonal living in, and everything inside isn't designed for full time occupancy. Add the fact that it's a moving vehicle and thus subjected to vibrations and flexing. Last thing you want is your stuff to come apart while you expect it less.

Source: I'm on my 4th RV and been through all the crap I'm telling you about 😁

A few more things:


Camco 40043 TastePURE RV/Marine... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

303 (30306) Aerospace Protectant,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000XBCURW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Camco RV Brass Inline Water... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD08U?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

These are fun but not a requirement:

MPOWERD Luci Solar String Lights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KYPDPKC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

MPOWERD 1004-005-001-002 Luci Lux... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076JSCMPG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Again not a necessity but I like it, keeps your water house pointed down not out

The Everything Candida Diet Book:... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD03K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Love this because depending on where you are, it’s really nice to have an extra water source for washing things and keeping dust down on the road

2wayz All Metal Body Garden Hose Splitter. Newly Upgraded (2017): 100% Secured, Bolted & Threaded. Easy Grip, Smooth Long Handles y Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019MS0HK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fOhxDb2J6NVSQ

r/O water is too much of hassle honestly, unless you really need it.

But if you're going with neocaridina you wont need r/O either way.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-TastePURE-Chlorine-Sediment-40045/dp/B0024E6V30/ref=zg_bs_10806177011_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=A2015Y4FFMQ9RWDEQFB6

I'd test something like this, now i don't know wich excact one would be the best, but you're probably smarter than me so you can figure it out with some research!

Good luck man!

You'll need one or more Heating Elements inside your keg. The one I linked to is for water heaters. You need a 240V hookup, too. If you don't have one, these elements will work on 120V, but you're going to need more of them unless you want to wait an hour to get 5 gallons of water to boil.

You'll control these elements with a PID controller and one relay per heating element. The PID controller I linked comes with one good solid state relay that's capable of switching 240v. The PID controller also supplies you with the temp probe you need to put into the kettle somehow.

In addition to this, you'll need some various connectors, and probably an electrical box. I'd say budget a couple hundred bucks for odds and ends.

Finally, when messing with 240v... or even 120v, you really should get a real electrician to look over your connections before you apply power to it. A: to keep you safer, and B: to keep your investment safer.

sure. which parts do you need more detail on?

so take an SCR controller. this one is nice as it has the digital display. that saves you with the bother of an ammeter or voltmeter. this will leave you with a dial control for increasing or decreasing power to your unit.

220 from your wall goes into the SCR. if you want it cheap get the power cord off of a craigslist (etc) free stove or dryer.

power out goes to your hot water tank element. they say that ultra low watt density is best. but low watt fold back ones are usually fine too.

your element screws into one of these . they are available from a number of suppliers.

to prepare the keggle, simply remove the spear, and then cut what is normally the bottom of the keg off (its quietest if you do this with the keg full. you might be able to find a disk to seal the ferrule up with, or even fill with water and then reinstall the spear, and do it upside down) now the sanke flange can be used as a 2" tri clamp ferrule. buy yourself a 2" TC clamp and gaskets

you'll need legs or a stand for the keggle. I'm sure you can figure that out.

now as that is you'll see that your hwt element sticks up the center of the keg from the bottom to about the middle of the keg. so. if you got yourself some 2" copper pipe - the same length as your element and hammer on an easy flange. for that basically you take a ballpeen hammer and work the ends down so that they are flat and 90° to the rest of the pipe. if that's a little thin for the TC clamp to attach to, you can put a hose clamp on it, and melt some solder in to beef it up. file it to shape and for smoothness. even better is if you can add a tee with at least a 1/2" but maybe as much as a 1" connection and then you get a bottom drain as well.

Seconding the water report suggestion, but it's a good guideline...don't take it as gospel. Tap water chemistry changes throughout the seasons so it's a moving target. I'd be surprised if you need anything more than a carbon filter and campden tablets. MUCH cheaper than a RO system. Something like this.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0006IX87S

My tap water starts smelling like pond scum late in the summer, and an inline carbon filter like the one i linked takes that aroma out. Campden to get hit of chlorine and chloramine and i'm golden.

-----

FYI - cheap water heater elements make great high-power load resistors.

Though these things aren't "lab" parts, they can be useful, and cheap for hobbyist use. They are fairly easy to find locally, and obviously easy to find on the internet.

• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX89Q/
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX89G/
  
  -----
  

Basically: your heart is a badass strong pump. Secondly, it has a little less work to do than you think: basically it just needs to do the uphill bits, and gravity does the rest of the work (with valves stopping gravity from causing too many problems with the uphill bits). It also doesn't make much to make a strong pump. This one for example, is cheap, comparably sized to the human heart, and pushes 3,000 L/h (10 times more than the human heart).

you may want to read more on /r/tea which is a mix of snobs, newbies, and people in between willing to hold your hand through it all. if you are a member of meetup.com there are 2 active NYC tea meetups there.
i have tried many ceylons and the only one i can recommend is Dilmah loose;
http://www.amazon.com/Dilmah-Ceylon-Loose-4-41-Ounce-Boxes/dp/B00112GBO0
you will find it to be less chalky and leafy than Ahmad, and it come in foil vacuum packs for better freshness, however it's fanning bits so you'll need a paper filter when brewing it. I would NOT recommend other expensive Dilmah blends - they are really awful despite their glowing amazon reviews.
if you use your nyc tap water to brew tea, i strongly recommend filtering out Chloramines which do slightly alter any tea flavor being brewed. here is the cartridge i would recommend;
http://www.amazon.com/Pentek-ChlorPlus-Carbon-Filter-Cartridge/dp/B0051VC7CW
you can get a 1-2 stage counter top filter that attaches to a faucet for another $20-$40, well worth it if you use a lot of tap water for drinking, cooking, baking, aquarium hobbies, etc.

This one was recommended to me and has worked great. Camco RV Brass Inline Water Pressure Regulator- Helps Protect RV Plumbing and Hoses from High-Pressure City Water, Lead Free (40055) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD08U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gVM5AbWXJT3SX

• does fermcap-s count?
  
• you could fab a hop spider for less than $15
  
• RV style water filter or a drinking water hose
  
• maybe a cool piece of glassware from your favorite local brewery
  
• apple cider from the health food store in a 1 gallon glass jug
  
• 1 lb of gelatin from the health food store for fining
  
• a [turkey baster] for thieving samples and starting siphons
  
• an upgrade for your racking cane to stainless steel
  
• upgrade your tubing to silicone
  
• a nifty ball lock post adapter for cleaning beer lines

My first plan of action if I were you would be insulation, while it's still warm out. Being in an aluminum can will sap any heat you pour into it without decent insulation. And don't forget the floor.

That said, when it comes time to put a furnace in my 67 Avion (also an aluminum can) I'll be looking for a propane catalytic heater, something like this one

I was considering one of the diesel heaters you can find on eBay in various BTU capacities, like this one, until I watched this video where a guy tests one for heat output, carbon monoxide, etc. It passed the CO test just fine, but I don't think I could deal with that noise. I must admit though that the price is certainly attractive.

I have a pool, so I have a kit to test chlorine, alkalinity, pH, etc... It's accurate from 0-5 ppm of chlorine.

I get between 1-2 ppm of chlorine in my tap water depending on the time of year. My fridge filter and this Filtrete take out 100% of the chlorine.

I tested a different Camco RV filter last year, and it only removed about 50% of the chlorine. It also affected the total alkalinity which was very strange. I'm not even sure how that's possible, but I repeated the test multiple times.

Anyway, it looks like your Camco is superior (e.g. 5 micron vs 100), so hopefully you get good results.

You are welcome
BTW, if you are new to hot tubs I recommend this
http://www.troublefreepool.com/threads/84-How-do-I-use-Bromine-in-my-spa-(or-pool)
This is the easiest and cheapest way to run one, chemical-wise. Be careful not to buy splash free bleach it has soap in it (learned the hard way).
Also I use this to fill (I am on a well):
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-40043-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector/dp/B0006IX87S

depends what your water issues are. here in nyc the only issue are particulates and chloromines,
so i got a generic 10" cartridge housing and use appropriete chloromines absorbing carbon block.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013JVPN1M (all you need for now)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051VC7CW (recommended cartridge replacement)

since this housing comes with an adequate filter cartridge, you can use that for the first 1000gal,
then replace it with the Pentech for the next 1000gal. if you have a lot of particulates such as mulm,
I would get a second stage filter housing and use one for particulates and the other for chloromines.

https://www.amazon.com//dp/B0014C0850

it's best to stick with the 10'|20' cartridge standards, not use any proprietary housing like culligan.
2 stages means you'll save on cartridge costs because particulate-only are much cheaper to replace,
thus extending the useful life of your other more expensive carbon block cartridge.

I brew 2L of tea daily, while removing chloromines has significantly improved the taste of my tea.
if you are a high end aquarium hobbyist, removing chloromines is a must for your invertebrates.

I’ve got a rock wood premier, 2018. Assuming they’re pretty similar, I’ve got a bit of a wacky setup for my grey water. For the shower drain, I use this:

Valterra Black T01-0091VP Swivel Drain Connector-90°, 1-1/2" x 3/4" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006MTREC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_qignDbNYV2HMN

To connect to a regular hose that I run to this:

Barker (11104) Tote Tank - 22 Gallon Capacity https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B61TPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rlgnDb95MB2C0.

For the sink grey water I connect a brass 90 degree elbow to a 3 foot hose (if the hose is too long your sink won’t drain) to this:

Barker Manufacturing Company 10887 Barker 5 Gallon Tote-Along Drain Water Tank https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000B61TP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mqgnDbNK22E51.

The sink 5 gallon tank is too small, I have to drain it every couple of days. The whole setup is a little difficult and I want to figure out a way to run it all to one tank instead of two. Just as a heads up, measure the shower drain pipe, it’s smaller than the one most RVs have, so if you buy a tank with a hose, it probably won’t fit. Might have to look for an adapter of some type.

Hope this helps. Let me know if you’ve got more questions, hopefully I’ve already made all the mistakes and can save you some headache. Also, check out popupportal.com. Lots of knowledgeable folks there.

I heard about not using regular garden hoses for filling kettles. So, I went ahead and bought an inline water filter and the white Camco drinking water hoses, which come in 25' and 4' lengths. This setup is actually for an RV. One 5 micron filter does 250 gallons.

The whole setup (with Amazon Prime) was just under $50. They also have a ground spike/filter stand for the main unit to keep it upright if you so desire. I just sit it in a bucket.

So far, I have not noticed any off flavors or odors. The system seems promising. Also, you can get better filtration systems, but I chose this one because it connects directly to the hose spigot without need of an adapter.

One other thing I should mention is that I use well water which was the initial reason to filter my brew water. This system makes it faster and easier so far.

Ask and you shall receive! You can save over a dollar fifty on this nifty pressure regulator that is definitely the exact one you need! You're welcome!

I should clarify because I seemed to have misunderstood what a sanke is. I don't want to use a keg for a few reasons and I can't easily get one so I doubt I will. I want to use a large stockpot, 5-7 gallons, but am new to this hobby so still concerned about safety.

Is the process of installing an electric heating element as simple as soldering a flange with interior threads that a heating element like this can screw into? Would a soldered seal be enough for the pressure of a boiling liquid overtop of the seal? What safety risks do I then run? Should I unscrew the heating element after each run to clean?

Someone recommended it for me so maybe try this? http://www.amazon.com/Camco-40043-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector/dp/B0006IX87S? It seems to be working okay but I still dry with towels. Also look up a drying technique called sheeting. Those 2 are probably your best bet without towels or an air blower

Olympian wave 3 heater. It's propane powered, safe and it's relatively cheap. It has great ratings on Amazon too! I'm think of getting it for my van.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BUV1RK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_.iUKDbK8Y2ME6

Not to take business away from Midwest, but I think there are better options for water filters. The RV water filters are easier to find, and so are replacement parts, plus they'll hook right into your lawn hose.

@$20, 100 micron filter

@$50, 5 micron fliter

Buy this water bed water changer or this python replacement connector. Buy this hose. Buy this brass adapter.

​

Congratulations. You have a 50 foot python for less than $25. You can build a part out of PVC that hangs on the side of your tank for less than $5 and it'll let you control the flow of the water into or out of your tank. Not having to stand at your tank during water changes is nice.

Bug bombs and seal everything you possibly can (all the seams etc).

And bleach the shit out of your tanks. Dump a bunch on your grey and black tanks and then go for a drive with it. Add some borax too. Get it all sloshed around. Then get a tank cleaner wand (https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A01-0184VP-Master-Blaster-Tank/dp/B000BGHYDO) and clean your black and grey tanks really well.

I recently started looking at what I'd need to convert to electric and it looks very doable for around $100. You can get one of these and a heating element like this. Since you already have the 240V hookup for your dryer, it should be pretty easy to set up.

I haven't actually done this yet, but a coworker uses this setup and he likes it a lot.

Once you test it, these guys (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006IX87S?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title) are pretty cheap and work well. They hook up to a hose and last a good while.

I got a filter and holder from RedBud in OKC but it's basically a 1 micron filter like this. A lot faster than RO filter and you get to keep some of the minerals that can be beneficial.

I'm BIAB, so that helps cut down on the space and equipment, but I'm looking at adding [240V Heating Element] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPG4LI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1), Inkbird Controller, and [a basket to make raising the grains a bit easier to manage] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VXKJJI/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER). Which doesn't seem like too much of an investment to make my brewday a LOT shorter, and a bit easier.


edit: [alternative inkbird controller] (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KJZMWSI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1RUFFFCQ74BCW&psc=1). This is the one i am currently considering, but i don't know the real differences.

I don't think it is a good idea for the element to touch the glass-covered steel on the opposite side. I've used fold-back incoloy ULWD elements in narrow tallboy 50 gallon water heaters. They work great and have lasted a long time.

Yup that's a good one. Also, for water connection make sure you're using a hose design for drinking water, just in case. Something like this: [Hose]
(
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-50ft-Premium-Drinking-Water/dp/B004VHXS20/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525059730&sr=8-2&keywords=rv%2Bpotable%2Bwater%2Bhose&dpID=41JqKDXPb1L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch&th=1)

I have this one in my Toyota Dolphin, super sippy on propane and doesn't emit fumes like a Mr. Buddy. I also have a carbon monoxide detector/fire alarm mounted and test it weekly. Yes I do vent through the roof vent and yes I do turn it off at night. From what I've heard I may be able to get a month's worth of use from a 5 gallon tank before I need to re-fuel, so much better than using the small tanks on the Mr. Buddy that run out after six hours of use on low heat.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BUV1RK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Later on I will try what you said but since it’s the first time I will play it safe plus I’m on a very tight budget.

I saw this cheap on but it also comes in 1/2 inch.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004ME11FS/

I’m not sure what standard would be.

The other popular ones seem to be the Olympic waves. They're a good bit more expensive though.

Probably not, the only way to control humidity and condensation is going to be with really good ventilation. You would need to run fans to keep air circulating enough. It does start to negate the heat your creating by needing to ventilate so much. My Mr. Buddy does alright with my vent fan running but it's not a perfect setup. If your set on using propane with a heater that isn't vented to the outside consider the Wave heaters as they are catalytic and shouldn't produce moisture as much I believe. I'm sure someone can chime in about them relating to moisture.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-57331-Olympian-Wave-3-Catalytic/dp/B000BUV1RK

Sure, it's pretty much the standard these days:

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-Screw-In-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI

I am using this one, NeverKink Teknor Apex, 7612-50 Boat and Camper, Drinking Water Safe Hose, 1/2-Inch by 50-Feet Hose though I have only used it for brewing water a couple of times. It doesn't leave discernible taste to the water. I primarily use it for supplying my immersion chiller (with a clothes washer hot water hose on the drain side).

For filter I assume you mean something like https://www.amazon.com/Camco-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector-40043/dp/B0006IX87S?

I run all my tap water through this https://www.amazon.com/Camco-40043-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector/dp/B0006IX87S along with a "drinking water hose" it works out great!

Sure thing!

Grey Water: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Waste-Water-Tank-Kit-For-Ducato-Boxer-Relay-XLWB-X250-290-Campervan/282623292350

Water Heater: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019BWN8E2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We are going to be full-time so we are definitely doing some more luxury features than if we were building a weekender rig.

Do you see water or just #2 looking down the toilet hole?

Are you sure the dump valve is actually opening?

Do you have a black tank flush feature?

You might want to try something like this to fill the black tank from the outside to see if it loosens anything:
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-39062-Flush-Holding-Rinser/dp/B000BUQOAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396915174&sr=8-1&keywords=tank+flush

Could also try to blast it out from the top:
http://www.amazon.com/Valterra-A01-0184VP-Master-Blaster-Tank/dp/B000BGHYDO/ref=pd_sim_auto_33?ie=UTF8&refRID=0VH1YZD0GHN2QGKEEADF

For removing chlorine from tap water we were discussing ascorbic acid.
(I ordered some actually) How do you think that would compare to using an inline active charcoal filter like the one in the link when doing water swaps.

Camco_Active_Charcoal_Inline_water_filters

Welll I wouldn't take it that high on anything if you start with 500 and you want 500 I'd maybe go to 800 and compromise if that makes sense. So if you are 500 add 900 then i'd do like 1000-1200? Really if you can do filtered you need to with that quality of water. They make some basic filters that may be able to help. https://amzn.to/2yJLfJ4 I haven't tested how good it is but worth a shot?

Camco 40043 TastePURE Water Filter with Flexible Hose Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_44Gvyb81DXKYH

I get my water from my hose outside, since it's so near the garage.

Is this comparable to the quality filter you're speaking of?

Or is it better to run water from inside with said filter you replied with?

Get a pressure limiter to put on your hose inlet to the camper.

Camco RV Brass Inline Water Pressure Regulator- Helps Protect RV Plumbing and Hoses from High-Pressure City Water, Lead Free (40055) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BZD08U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_DjnPDb5XWP2Q9

Sounds like you have hard water. You can use a in line water filter to reduce the minerals in the water from your hose bib.
I've been using RV water filters like this with great results, your result will vary depending on your water hardness.

Another but expensive option is the CR Spotless system

http://imgur.com/a/aNmnD Dried with ammo hydrate, engine cleaned with APC 1:4 and dressed with 303. Still having some issues with water spots, I did wash at 2pm but it was fairly cloudy. Should I buy this and see if it helps?

Excellent, you seem to be getting all of this very well. I wouldn't try to rip out an element from a hot plate and somehow insert it into a keg, hot water heater elements are purpose made for this and the right tool. They aren't expensive at all.

Upvote for what sounds like the best answer. Test this by reducing the water pressure at the source and then retry your bathroom fixtures. Solve the problem by installing one of [these] (https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Pressure-Regulator-High-Pressure-40055/dp/B003BZD08U).

FYI, cheaper on Amazon and Prime eligible
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-40043-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector/dp/B0006IX87S

I put together this infographic to show my not-yet-finalized plumbing set-up. I'd love to hear any layout feedback/advice or things I may be missing...

A couple specific questions:

1. Should I incorporate an accumulator tank? How big a difference?
   
   
2. Is an outdoor inline filter enough for drinking water? Should I add a pipe strainer?
   
   
3. Should I consider water pressure regulator, water softener, etc?
   
   Here are the parts (*purchased):
   
   (A) Camco TastePURE (B) *Valterra Water Inlet Hatch (C) Shurflo 4008 Revolution Pump (D/S) *Class A Customs 30 gal (E/H/M) Sharkbite Ball Valve (F/G) Sharkbite Check Valve (I) *Eccotemp i12-LP (J) Sharkbite Mixing Valve (K) Suggestions? (L) Suggestions? (N) Suggestions? (O/P/R) HepVo Trap (Pipes) 1/2-inch Pex

If you remove them and try to clean them you might not need to replace them. But if they're too far gone or you don't want to mess with them and just replace instead. This http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02923-Heater-Element-Foldback/dp/B0002YUDSI This should fit your heater. You will have to check for compatibility. I would go to a plumbing supply house with the model info of the heater and purchase them off the shelf. They'll take them back if they don't fit.

HD is ok too but it's more of a hassle if they don't have the right part. You'd have to go to a plumbing supply anyway.

Only mildly detailing related...

If I get this: http://amzn.com/B0006IX87S do you think it will reduce pressure enough to make a SunJoe Electric Pressure Washer unusable? I want to get a filter so it's not the end of the world if I don't dry the car, but I want to make sure it's not a waste of $20.

Want to make your tub even more therapeutic? go salt water? usually between 2500 and 3000ppm about the same salt as what is in human tears. then use a chlorine generator . it creates small amounts of Chlorine gas from the Chloride in Sodium Chloride (salt) and then after it sanitizes it turns back into salt. no buying chlorine granules, you just drop it in your tub when you leave. I use this generator https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005QC5UZ2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

also when you go to fill your tub put one of these on the end of your tub https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0024E6V30/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I rarely have to add any chems to my tub just about once a month adjust the PH but that's it . I used to have to reset my tub (empty and fresh refill) once ever 3-4 months . now i do it once every 6-9 months and that's just because. I could probably go a year without any issue.

My heating elements are camco: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-Screw-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI

If you can follow directions, you can build a very simple control box by yourself.

Herm coils are easy to make, too, in case you change your mind.

Do you think it could be replaced with something like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-Pressure-Regulator-High-Pressure-40055/dp/B003BZD08U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541378815&sr=8-3&keywords=hose+pressure+regulator

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I3RNMHBSOH8GXS&colid=P2WFDBOTH8XS

There's been a review or 2 on here about this (or a VERY similar) filter. I don't own one, but they seem to work ok for the hobbyist.

That's exactly why people filter the water before it goes in the tank. The inline hose filters are only $8 each and then you can drink your fresh water without worrying.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024E6V30/

Just get a RV inline water filter and PH neutral soap like Adam's Car Soap, CarPro Reset, Optimum Soap, etc.

with all the water suggestions, i recommend this easy to use filter

You could look at something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006IX87S?pc_redir=T1

Fellow Chicago brewer here. I've done a few batches from straight tap, and while they turned out tasty, there was always something a little... off about them. I recently picked one of these up and it's greatly improved the quality of my brews. All of the breweries that you listed don't use straight tap, but run it through a charcoal filter first, which is exactly what I've listed here. (If you do pick this up, you'll also need a relatively short food grade hose since the filter doesn't come with one.)

The recipe didn't mention anything about pH from the source water. Truth is, I haven't even gotten that deep into brewing yet.

I pull my source water from a house with one of those RV water filters: https://amzn.com/B0006IX87S

I'll go test the pH now though.

I recently installed an element in my kettle. I ordered the following element, locknut, and o-ring from Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003GXF5EO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMWPNI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BPG4LI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yeah I was looking at this one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019BWN8E2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1W9T1VHESHHDF&coliid=I3PZ7KHTTQMH7E

It gets mediocre reviews though. Has a gas valve that needs a whack quite often it seems.

I like using a hose specifically designed for drinking water. I have one on my RV and the water never tastes like "hose" even when the water sits in the hose for days.

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-22783-TastePURE-Drinking-Water/dp/B004ME11FS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1495550996&sr=8-2&keywords=camco+water+hose

On top of the boiloff rate you will probably scorch the hell out of the wort with that element. The 6500 watts look to be spread over too little surface area. I've used a 4500w element that looks to be of similar size and my beer tasted like burnt porridge.

May I recommend the tried and tested 5500w camco ripple element?

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-14-Inch-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI

You're gonna need some sort of controller to tune it down when you're boiling. I Use 60% to maintain a good boil in 50l boils. Here's my system: http://brew.is/blog/2011/10/20-gallon-boil-kettle-electric-biab-kettle/ . I haven't written up something about the controller, but I'm using an auber instruments 2362 PID controller. It's used to control the mash temperature and the boil.

I was in GBA awhile back. Haven't made meetings in a few years. Bottling a Belgian strong and brewing 10 gal of Saison tomorrow! I should probably get one of these filters though, just to get some of the chlorine out that makes the yeast sluggish to start.

I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-40043-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector/dp/B0006IX87S

I've never had any troubles with it.

I have very hard water in my area and feel your pain. I bought this to hook up to my hose when I wash. Keeps the water clean so I can keep the cars looking good. Very cheap and should last a long time if you only use it when you wash the cars. Can't recommend enough

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_BhIPCb28QJDE7

30 Gallons is going to take a crap ton of power/time... 15 gallons may even be pushing it.

This is the popular element used in e-brewing setups, but for 15+ gallons you would probably need more than one.

I've been using a Camco TastePURE Water Filter paired with a Camco Premium Drinking Water Hose and have not had any issues.

There are cheap filters for Chloramines.

See http://www.amazon.com/Pentek-ChlorPlus-Carbon-Filter-Cartridge/dp/B0051VC7CW/

You could try this,

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006IX87S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2EGK8WK9JXGE6&coliid=IO0LTGPQVRUKY&psc=1

Get a drinking water hose. Makes brewing outdoors a lot more convenient.

Maybe, but you don't really need a tutorial. Just get a filter like this and run your water through it with the hose valve at about 50-60%. Then brew.

I used these RV water filters before I switched to RO water. They may suit your needs.

I use this filter - https://www.amazon.com/Camco-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector-40043/dp/B0006IX87S/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Camco+TastePURE+Water+Filter+with+Flexible+Hose+Protector+Greatly+Reduces+Bad+Taste%2C+Odors%2C+Chlorine+and+Sediment+in+Drinking+Water&qid=1559231197&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

Which runs into this RO maker - https://www.amazon.com/Aquatic-Life-Reverse-Osmosis-50-Gallon/dp/B00DOG63OY/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=ro+buddy&qid=1559231240&s=gateway&sr=8-1

​

That I then let run into an unused 6.5gal bottling bucket. I still toss a half a tab of campden in on brew day. Then I build up my water profile with salts/acids from there.

Potable water hose along with a hose filter.

You can buy a filter that connect to the hose.https://www.amazon.com/Camco-40043-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector/dp/B0006IX87S

and use the drinking water hose.

I use one of the drinking water hoses... http://www.amazon.com/Camco-22783-TastePURE-Drinking-Water/dp/B004ME11FS/ref=sr_1_2?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1419784454&sr=1-2&keywords=drinking+water+hose

Garden hoses give garden hose flavors. You need to purchase a [food grade water hose.] (http://www.amazon.com/Camco-22783-TastePURE-Drinking-Water/dp/B004ME11FS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1419776783&sr=8-1&keywords=Food+grade+water+hose)

example RV filter: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-TastePURE-Flexible-Protector-40043/dp/B0006IX87S

Here you go sir/ma'am. It's called a Camco 40043

Glad you asked, it’s an RV Water Filter from Amazon.

Camco TastePURE Inline Water Filter, Greatly Reduces Bad Taste, Odors, Chlorine and Sediment in Drinking Water (2 Pack) (40045) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0024E6V30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AJ5SCbGRMSNBX

The electric heating elements are Ultra low power density (50W per sq. inch), so no single point on the heating element will get hot enough to carmelize the wort.

I had the same question when we were debating whether to go electric or not, but after some research I found that electric brewers don't ever seem to run into that issue. It is more Internet folklore than anything.

These are the elements we will be using: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-14-Inch-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI

you want an ultra low watt density element [https://www.amazon.ca/Camco-02963-Screw-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI], not a high density one. that's why you're getting all that scorch on there.

The temperature probe is in the main column inserted down from the end cap. It sits directly in the vapor path at the 90 degree turn.

The PID controller has an auto-learn feature; after one setup session (where it bounced the temperature all over the place and recorded data) it can hold the steam temperature incredibly steady at just about any temperature.

Parts:

• PID Controller
  
• Solid-state relay
  
• Heat element (220v AC)
  
• PT100 Temperature sensor
  
• Power cord
  
• "Over temperature warning" buzzer (not hooked up yet)
  

I know a lot of people prefer ones that have more surface area so there is no scorching. look at

http://www.amazon.com/Camco-02963-Screw-In-Ripple-Element/dp/B000BPG4LI/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y