Reddit mentions: The best sewing tools

Below are tools/materials I use all the time. I keep them super handy on my work station.

Stamps/Stamping Platform/Blocks: Clear cling stamps are going to be the most space efficient for you. I buy lots of clear stamps and metal dies on ebay to save money but the quality is not nearly as good as US-made brands. If you have wood mounted stamps you can unmount them for use with the stamp platform and for easier storage. There are tutorials online. I second and third other people's recommendations of the Tim Holtz stamp platform. I use it ALL the time. You can get placement perfect for stamps but I also love it because you can reink and stamp a couple times to get a more even and inked impression. Like /u/erwtje-be said, you can put a piece of craft foam on the platform and sometimes that helps get better impressions. I get the thinner craft foam at dollar tree and also use it to raise larger sections of the card up for some dimension. For the thicker craft foam go to Michael's or another craft store. I do use acrylic blocks from time to time too. I find the round/scalloped edge type are the ones I grab most often.

Inks: My two most used inks are VersaMark and VersaFine. I use VersaMark for most of my embossing but there are awesome other techniques you can use it with too. VersaFine gets the best edges and details IMO for all regular stamping. I highly recommend the full size. Don't bother with the itty bitty baby cubes. The great thing about both of these is they can be reinked.

Embossing Powder Tool: You use this to remove static from your paper before stamping embossing ink and applying powder so the powder only sticks to your sentiment and not to finger prints or other parts of the paper. You can make your own (tutorial) buy one like this or this. I have all three but use my home made one (6 years ago) the most often. I second /u/sm9406's powder list and point that it elevates the look and feel of your cards exponentially. You can do everything with black, white, clear, silver, and gold. Use the antistatic tool on the paper that catches your embossing powder to get as much of it back in the container as possible.

Scissors/Tape/Glue: I use my Tim Holtz non-stick serrated scissors everyday. They are for cutting adhesive tapes/double stick foam. They are great if you buy tape on rolls, not necessary if you use the plastic applicator double stick stuff. I find that much less versatile than buying rolls of double stick tape and foam tape. I personally buy mine from DAISO but you may not have that store where you are. They have all different widths and I find the quality cannot be beat for $1.50 a roll. Scor Tape is also excellent though it is much more expensive. My favorite glue is the ZIG two way glue pen. When it's blue and wet it is permanent or if you let it dry clear it can be used to temporarily bond things.

Tweezers: I never bothered to get tiny craft tweezers for a looong time and now I realize how much time and headache could been avoided if I'd only known how much I would use them. To remove double stick tape backing, to position small glued elements, to pick up and place tiny embellishments, etc. These are by far the best tweezers I've bought. I tried some knock off alternatives but they honestly don't even come close. If you're going to get tweezers, I highly suggest these by EK Tools.

Ruler/Layer Tool: I'm absolutely obsessed with this tool. If you like the clean look of layered/matted paper on your cards it is a must. It will look perfect every time. You use this with an Xacto or other craft knife. You will want a self healing mat or a tempered glass cutting surface. I prefer the glass mat over the self healing because you can glue on it and ink on it and then scrape or wash it off. That link is to the one I have, it is a bit large. I know they make smaller ones though. My favorite ruler is by Tim Holtz It has the metal edge so you can run your craft knife against it. I cut things by hand with the ruler and layer tools much more often than with the paper cutter.

ScorBuddy: Like /u/Mystery_Substance suggested, the ScorPal is awesome. They make a mini version called the ScorBuddy and I use that 99% of the time over my larger one. The big one is mostly useful if you're going to make your own envelopes which I don't really do.

I started out with dog collars so a few specific things you will want. If you don't want to buy a leather strap cutter, you can make due with a framing square, adjustable T square, or just a long ruler, its a measure 10x scenario but its not too bad. You will want a really sharp knife for cutting, I use my skiving knife because I can sharpen it, but I have used exacto knives and a rotary cutter and done a decent job with them.

You will want punches! Hole punches are obvious for the holes the buckle will use, but even the ends of the strap a punch can save you a lot of time and effort. Doing curved cuts is trickier than it seems and when there is a matching side to emphasize imperfections and stitching to further complicate things, being able to just use a punch and have it right the first time is fantastic.

As for hardware, get Welded D rings. They are a little more expensive but I'd rather not have a Dring bend and a dog get loose. Like $14 on amazon for 50 of them. I used these buckles was the cheapest I could find that style.

Pricking irons/Diamond Chisels are a must have, they just make the long runs on collars so much easier. That and a good thread and needles. I tried crap thread and tiger thread...I now buy only tiger thread. Its just so much easier to work with and looks a lot better.

here is one of the ones I did for my girlfriends dog
https://imgur.com/a/2y23Rdr


Post I made earlier for someone else, I would invest in:

• diamond awl like this
  
• diamond chisel(only really need the 2 prong and 5-6 prong) I use these
  
• good braided poly thread like this
  
• good needles John James
  
• Good skiving knife this ones a good starter
  
• Wing dividers I bought these
  
• Edge beveler Like this
  
• You'll also want a leather condition(neatsfoot oil is what I use) and a finisher(resolene, beeswax, snoseal, etc)
  
• Contact cement(Dap weldwood) helps keep things together before you sew them
  
• Dye if you want certain colors
  
  For ~$100 bucks investment and you've got most of the stuff you'll need to make good looking stuff, then you just need to buy leather. I highly recommend picking a project, watching some videos on it and then if you need a new tool for it thats when you buy it. My biggest mistake thus far is thinking I could bypass buying a hole punch, the quality using a punch is so much higher than trying to do it by hand.
  
  As for skills. Look up Saddle stitching, easy to learn and hard to master. With those chisels it makes it really easy to get a good looking product with saddle stitching. Wetforming leather, helps make those sheaths, holsters, etc pop out at you. I like watching Nigel Armitage and Ian Atkinson on youtube, informative and you pick up little tips here and there.
  
  You'll also need to learn to keep your knife sharp! So project 1 if you invest is make a strop and get some jewlers rouge to polish that edge to a razor! If you're REALLY in a pinch and have no leather you can use the rouge on cardboard but it does not hold up well.

I sent them through a chat, but I’ll resend them this way...
I would get the floss at Johanns, they also sell cute kits. As far as the rest of the supplies I’d go with Amazon because of your time limits. Look for needles by John James in a variety pack sized 5-9, fabric, look for I-Nee cotton, and hoops by Morgan. Amazon also has great light boxes for transferring patterns....
https://www.amazon.com/John-James-Needle-30-Assorted/dp/B001VJNOV6/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?keywords=john+james+needles&qid=1564833113&s=gateway&sprefix=john+j&sr=8-17

https://www.amazon.com/iNee-Cotton-Fabric-Embroidery-60-inch/dp/B07F171ZJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?keywords=cotton+fabric+by+the+yard+embroidery&qid=1564833223&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

These are great pens for transferring patterns and drawing designs onto fabric
https://www.amazon.com/Threaders-Erasable-Fabric-Pens-3pk-Black/dp/B072QDSB2G/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=threaders+erasable+fabric+pens&qid=1564833299&s=gateway&sprefix=threaders+era&sr=8-3

Hoops
https://www.amazon.com/Morgan-Products-Stand-Combo-Hoops/dp/B000YZ3YIQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=morgan+hoop&qid=1564833394&s=gateway&sprefix=morgan+hoop&sr=8-4
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Morgan-Quality-Products-Embroidery-Interlocking/dp/B07B7C9QWQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_13?keywords=morgan+hoop&qid=1564833481&s=gateway&sprefix=morgan+hoop&sr=8-13
For future reference I get most of my supplies from 123stitch.com or embroidery.com
Great fabric can be found off Etsy
Shops I like on Etsy for linen
CloudCraftShop Robert Kaufman Essex Linen Fat Quarter Bundle, Naturals
BidouillArtStock Linen embroidery fabric coupon
FineStitchStudio Embroidery Linen 'Graziano' - Fat quarter

Etsy has good kits,
https:\namastehandembroidery.com has great kits as well. I personally love thread painting. If that’s something you think she’d like to try, go with anything from
https://trishbembroidery.com or any of her books!
Also
https://berlinembroidery.com/product-category/hand-embroidery-kits/needle-painting-kits/

|I'm kind of stuck in a rut now where my older clothes are boxy and I'd feel embarrassed wearing them, but I'm so depressed that I can't even get myself to the mall to buy anything new.


Never fear: the internet is here to help! With a bit of time & $ investment, you can forgo the hassle that is shopping in the (blech) "maul," find more flattering, stylish stuff with relative ease, and get MUCH better prices to boot. You'll be able to stretch your wardrobe budget to cover really nice pieces that you might otherwise pass over in favor of saving a buck, and bounce out of the rut of going to the same boring ol' shops in the interest of getting expeditiously the fuck out of the mall.

1. Spend $5 on this: http://www.amazon.com/6-Piece-Value-Pack-Soft-Fabric-Measures/dp/B003UXQQQG/ref=pd_sim_ac_1
   
   
2. Then, take & record your measurements as described here: http://www.neimanmarcus.com/category/popup/mens/menSizeGuide.html#measure
   
   
3. Peruse the Getting Started section in the sidebar. Don't necessarily glue yourself to the brands mentioned - there's plenty in there I wouldn't touch - but it's a great basic rundown. Pick a few starter pieces to look for, figure out how much you want to budget per month or so, and go from there.
   
   
4. Join sale sites like Gilt, etc. Most of the sale offering are for women, but the mens' sales are phenomenal when they show up. For instance, last night I ordered 3 Shirt By Shirt button-downs for Mr Undead at $30 apiece - usually $100+ apiece. If you keep an eye on upcoming sales, you can score some great deals. Until you have brand favorites and are familiar with how they fit, be prepared to order multiple sizes and send back lots of returns. Even with shipping charges, you'll still come out wayyyy ahead because of the deep discounts (but do factor in shipping and potential return shipping when looking at prices). And google is your friend - I often search the item I'm scoping out before buying it to look for reviews on other sites to get a more solid idea of fit/cut.
   

> Is this similar to a loop turner, or is it more like a crease maker in shape?

Crease maker. Here's one.

>Any iron recommendations, or should your typical department store one do just fine while I'm a student? Or should I splurge sooner rather than later on one of those Reliable stainless steel pro irons which look rather frightening?

I hate the big Rowena iron I bought a few years ago. It was expensive, but it is no gravity-feed industrial model with a vacuum bar. It was very well reviewed on Amazon by hundreds of people, but it sputters and there's no water indicator. I would wait on the iron. The school's workrooms must have irons. It only becomes a problem if there's a deadline and there's a line for the irons, or if someone screws up and irons the glue side of the interfacing.

White silk organza is often recommended as a press cloth because you can see through it.

>Helio, I have you tagged as "sewing alumna" (you're female, yes?). You've been so approachable and helpful. I look forward to seeing more of your advice in this subreddit as I proceed through school.

Yes, I am a woman. I'm just someone who takes one or two evening or weekend construction classes a year at FIT. I want to sew for myself, so I take it seriously, plus, it's fascinating. I don't sew consistently in between the classes in part because I don't have a sewing space and I always need fitting help. But things are sloooooowly coming together: This summer I bought a 2010 barely used Wolf dress form for $300. Now I'm saving up to get someone to help me customize it, which will cost more than the form.

If you have any questions, just post them, or direct message me. A lot of people have given me help over the years. They still are.

Cutter and Tailor is an excellent bespoke tailoring website. Your school may have a subscription to the University of Fashion website. They offer a library of videos on fashion-related topics, and have very clear construction and pattern making videos. It's still fairly new, so they are frequently adding material. There may be times when you want to review something. It's good to go to a reliable source.

Good luck. :-)

Notions?

I try to be picky about which specialty rulers I add to my collection because they're often expensive and i don't want a billion of them... but i do have a small wish list of a few. I want the Jaybird Quilts Hex N More & Sidekick rulers. Angela Walters set of quilting rulers. Creative Grids Pineapple ruler. Creative Grids Folded Corner Clipper Tool [I just saw this video today and have decided I NEED this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KKQ9VS8e0lI&t=2s)

​

There's this gadget that is super cute and way overpriced [Roll & Press](https://www.amazon.ca/Clover-7812-Roll-Press-Light/dp/B01M7XAHFM/ref=pd_rhf_se_p_img_12?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=53S1QXXDF1KZPN96EEYN) that you can get for $3 in a not as cute [wallpaper seam roller](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B000I1THI2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I use this way more than i expected, and dont need to go to my iron nearly as much now.

​

This [seam guide](https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07JQMNXDZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) has seriously stepped up my piecing accuracy game since i got it.

​

For Christmas 2017 I asked for/received 5 large spools of excellent quality thread and don't have to worry about running out anytime soon. I got Aurifil 50wt 100% cotton in white, medium grey, and black & also monofilament in clear and smoke. Almost 15,000 yards of thread! [HEAVEN!!!](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4G_CAYf-itw)

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Happy Early Birthday! I hope it rocks!!!

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Edit link formatting... that may or may not have done what I wanted it to do

There is already a good bit of advice here. I am not a woman, so I apologize if I'm not as knowledgeable about women's clothing or about petite sizing; I am by no means a dressmaker or tailor, but I have done this kind of thing several times before. Patterns usually have cut lines for lengthening or shortening. If the pattern is bilaterally symmetrical, you can usually make a pattern smaller all around by altering it according to your measurements. It is helpful and much easier if you have pattern drafting rulers for this. The dress in your picture looks to me like the "bodice" would be constructed with two front panels and a back panel, and one long panel gathered and attached to the "bodice". You have side seams to work with, so you can take in the pattern at the side seams and shorten the pattern for your appropriate height. You need to measure yourself for the following:

• Waist - Measure at the smallest circumference of your natural waist, usually just above the belly button.
  
• Back Waist Length - Measure from the most prominent bone at base of neck to the natural waistline.
  
• Bust - Measure around the fullest part of the bust. Do not draw the tape too tightly.
  
• Hips - Measure at the widest part of your hips.
  
• Armhole depth - Measure from the top outside edge of the shoulder down to the armpit. I find that you can easily get this measurement from a dress or shirt that fits you well.
  
  If you know your waist is 3 inches smaller than the smallest size on the pattern, adjust the pattern so that the waist line is 3 inches smaller. Do this by taking equal amounts off of each pattern piece to maintain proportion. In other words, in this example you need to mark your mark new cutlines a half inch inside the printed cut lines of the smallest size. By doing this, you will be shortening the width of each pattern piece by one inch at the waistline. Adjust the pattern the same way for your bust, hips, armholes. Then, connect the dots; this is where your curved pattern rulers may come in handy. Finally, shorten the back and front panels at the indicated place on the pattern, using your back waist length measurement. Shorten the gathered panel by hemming after trying on the dress for fit.
  
  Good luck. I hope I don't lead you astray here, but this has always worked for me.

Beginning patternmaking materials I used:

1. Plus size bodice pattern block aka sloper (have had this sloper since 2015 when I made it for my adopted mom's wedding dress but you can buy premade here: https://www.etsy.com/listing/617206983/plus-size-basic-bodice-block-sloper)
   
   
2. Thick industrial pattern paper (bought at local fabric store)
   
   
3. Awl (local store)
   
   
4. 18" clear grid designer ruler (Have had mine since college but also here: Westcott 18" 8ths Beveled Ruler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000V59R8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5xkODbDSVE2VX)
   
   
5. pencil + eraser
   
   
6. Fashion french curve (what i wish i had was this DIY Sewing Ruler Tailor Set French Curve Accessories, 5pcs Stlye Plastic Curve Stick Pattern Design https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QMFQZGG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mAkODbPBZVY9R)
   
   
7. measuring tape (store)
   
   The first thing I made when patternmaking is the easiest to draft and most daunting to cut out in fabric and later hem: the FULL circle skirt.
   
   I created 2 strips of 1.5" wide pattern paper at 7.5" and 31.5" with awl-poked holes at .5" in on either end. These will create your skirt! The smaller is your waistline and the larger is your hemline. You remember circle geometry with pi and radii and diameters from math class? We're going all the way back there! Measure your waistline (where you can bend side to side) and divide that number by 2 times pi (that's approx 6.28). That will be your waist radius, then calculate to the closest 1/16th of an inch to the literal number. Poke another hole 5/8" away from either original hole. This is your waist seam allowance. The hem strip is your waist radius+your skirt length. I chose a modest 24", which meant my hem radius was 6.5+24=30.5. Add the 1" for space to put the awl-poked holes for this one, too. Add an additional hole on one side .5" from the original hole. This will be your hem fold.
   
   Because this is a FULL circle skirt, the easiest thing to do is cut the circle into quarters: 2 back skirt pieces and 1 front skirt piece. Cut 2 back skirt and cut 1 front skirt on fold. The fold for the front skirt was on the long straight edge of the pattern paper, where i placed the awl+small strip (this is the center of your circle) with a pencil tip at the hole on the other end (this will be your circumference aka waistline). Holding onto your awl in 1 hand and moving your pencil with the other, draw 3/4 of a semi circle. Now draw a straight 33" line at the center of the circle mark perpendicular to the straight long edge of the pattern paper. This will be your side seam. Where the circle meets the straight line, draw a 1.5" line perpendicular to that line (it will be parallel to the edge of the fold). Repeat the same steps for drawing 2 3/4 semi circles with the larger strip with the pencil in the furthest of the double holes (hem hole), then the closer one (hem fold hole?). Draw 3" lines perpendicular to the side seam where it meets the two big circles. Finally, draw a parallel straight line to your side seam line 5/8" away (seam allowance). Draw a notch at the hem fold line at the side seam and another notch anywhere in the middle range of your side seam. Cut out at outermost lines. This is your front skirt pattern piece! The back skirt piece is basically the same except you start 5/8" away from the edge of the straight edge (front skirt's fold edge) and the circle center will be on THAT line rather than the edge. Otherwise steps are the same for drawing. For notches, match your side seams and make sure the notches line up there, then double notch at the center back 3.5 " away from the WAISTLINE (NOT waist seam allowance line). Two single notches at either side where the hem fold will be to match the front skirt hem fold notch. Now you have your skirt pattern!
   
   OK I have to do wedding related stuff right now I'll come back and continue later.

In that case, it seems like he has a really good appetite and may just not be storing much fat, yet (which is normal). A couple things I would do is get a small scale and a tape measure, just to track if he's growing, and just record the numbers in a note on your phone or simple Excel spreadsheet, along with how much he's eating, so you don't have to rely on your memory to spot any trends if he never grows or starts losing weight.

The scale I use is this one, currently $8.50 on Amazon, and a flexible tape measure like this, currently $4.85. I also second making sure he doesn't have intestinal parasites, which is something I would do even if he wasn't showing any symptoms, as infections like coccidia are extremely common and easy to spread within clutches. (Most vet clinics in my area will do a fecal test for under $20).

All that said, there's nothing from your post which would make me think there's something wrong with your dragon. Tracking the babies for the first couple of months is just something I do for peace of mind.

Good luck!

Edit: Here's an article about determining if your bearded dragon is underweight (though the method mostly applies to adults), as well as some tips for getting them to gain some weight. "2 Surefire Ways To Make a Bearded Dragon Gain Weight And Fatten Them Up"

Hey hon, I'm not seeing in there how long y'all have been doing this, but as another female, I wanted to pop in and let you know that I know the struggle.

Comparison being the thief of joy and all that, resolve to NOT focus on your numbers vs. his numbers. Being female, your body is more designed to retain weight. Your hormones throw everything out of whack, regularly. His, well, they don't. And hooboy can that be discouraging. I don't even BOTHER weighing myself that week of the month, or even a few days afterwards, because there's no point. The scale will show that I've gained weight, no matter how many cookies I've resisted or healthy choices I've made.

I recommend that you get/find a flexible measuring tape, like what tailors use - like this - and measure yourself. Measure your thighs, your arms, your waist, neck, and track it. Give yourself the data to see success in more than just the number on the scale.

Don't give up. You can reach your goal - it's just one decision at a time.

Edit: Also! You may know this, but based on the stats you've provided, for your safety, please eat 1200 calories a day. Especially do not drop below 1000. More info in the FAQ

Assuming you're a 5'7 30-year-old ( I have no idea, I can't find where ya'll have shared your age), and aiming for 140lbs, the maintenance calories for 140 is 1665. Source . So even staying between 1200-1500, you will get there sooner rather than later. The younger you are, the higher that maintenance calorie number will be.

TL;DR: Don't give up. Use alternatives to the scale to measure your success. Hormones are mean. Eat 1200. Don't give up.

Hello all! I wanted to share with you my organizer for all my daily cross stitch stuff. I had been looking for an easy solution to store my stuff without having it all over my coffee table and be able to easily move between rooms to continue working on my projects. I finally found this little organizer on Amazon and it's PERFECT for what I needed. I thought it would be fun to go through my bag and show what supplies I keep in there. Not pictured are obviously my hoop this is my all time favorite and the grime guard that I am trying to learn to love.

Everything is stored in the Roll-up canvas organizer that I got from Amazon. It's made for crochet supplies, but comes empty so you can load it up with your own stuff. Lot of designs available, but most importantly, CATS!

Section 1:

-Dritz seam ripper

-Cottage Cutz 2-in-1 needle threader

-Basic travel scissors

-Embroidery Scissors

-Needle Minders - one homemade from a dichroic pendant from a local craft fair, one made from a Babypietattoo hand painted clay pendant

-Tiny magnet set - I used this as a "minder" before I got around to making new ones. I keep it inside my kit now to use for my needle threader. I usually stitch with the kit opened in front of me, so it's easy to just throw the threader down on the magnet and have it handy

-Needle threader


Section 2:

-Needle Twister - this thing totally rocks and I want one for each size of needles!

-Magentic needle case

-Assorted sewing needles


Section 3:

-Needle minder from Maggies Minders

-Hem clips - I got mine in a vintage sewing box from an estate sale. They are perfect for clipping back extra aida to keep it out of the way

-Clover fine tipped water soluble marker

-Snip-a-Stitch scissors


Section 4

ORT [Thread catcher] from Maggies Minders

DMC magnetic needle case

Dritz Fray Check with applicator tip

These are the ones I use!

There’s honestly the only ones I’ve ever tried. I bought them 3 years ago and used them mostly to just draw on the fabric and less for transfer.

They’re pretty fine tip but the ink does spread a little so you’ll lose some smaller details. They’re really fun to rinse off though! The ink magically vanishes. I bought them 3 years ago and they’re still going strong so I can recommend them as being a really good value for your money too.

Yeah, I also shop online unless I'm away and feeling confident. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071XGLB1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 One of these tape measures for body measuring will be your new best friend. I shop at Amazon a lot. I like H&M for some basics, including undies. And there are store galore that specialize in whatever style you want to cultivate. If having things shipped to your home is a problem, and you don't have the option of receiving packages at work, Amazon also has pick up location options.

I've used a brightly colored floss, washable markers and this stuff https://www.scarletquince.com/blog/?p=568. I usually use aida cloth and do 10x10 grid. I can't speak to linens or other fabrics.
- For me, markers win for ease of use. I've never had any ghosting of marks or bleeding from the floss (I use DMC floss most of the time) when washing marks away. I like this brand. https://www.amazon.com/LEONIS-Water-Erasable-Marking-78008/dp/B00QTIBOS4/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1G8HLG2TTLIQ4&keywords=washable+fabric+markers+for+sewing&qid=1574460816&sprefix=washable+fabr%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-4.
- Floss can be hard to remove cleanly. I don't love having to use tweezers and potentially messing up my stitches.
- I haven't used the monofilament on any extensive projects but plan to on my next project. I am ordering some 8 lb. red monofilament from Amazon to try, as it is more reasonably priced than the branded Easy Count stuff.

Hope this helps.

I have one of those scales and it’s a piece of crap. I don’t trust it’s body fat estimates at all. If I have some carbs (usually from beer) I’ll put on a kilo or 2 of water and it disappears with a day or 2. The scales think this is mostly fat.

I’ve lost about 70lbs of fat over the last 3 years and I’ve had periods where I didn’t know whether I was losing fat or muscle and also gaining fat or muscle (when eating at a surplus). The best thing I did was get a cheap body measuring tape which makes it really easy to take consistent measurements of my body. You can then use the Navy or YMCA body fat calculator to estimate body fat %. From there you can estimate how much fat and lean mass you’re carrying around. I track this in a google sheet and I can see what’s happened each month.

The first 2 months on carnivore (after losing bloat, water weight etc) saw me weight stable but I lost about an inch from my waist. I didn’t care whether it was muscle (my strength actually dropped) or bone or organs that kept my weight stable but I knew I’d lost fat. You’re still early on your journey - get one and take measurements now, record them somewhere (you’ll thank yourself later on). Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Measure-Push-Button-Retract-Ergnomic-Portable/dp/B077Z4DRMS/

Success!

Thank you so so so so much. Wow. I wanted to wait to try it out to see how well it might work. It went through two layers of leather without any difficulty and it made sewing incredibly fast and easy. I was able to finish tailoring in less than 30 minutes. Thank you so much.

If anyone is wondering: I bought Speedy Stitcher Sewing Awl 120. I bought one of the slight more expensive "new" ones, and therefore didn't need to break $25.

First of all, screw lunch. It's all about breakfast for dinner! =) Secondly, to measure my bodyfat, I use tailor's tape. I then enter the relevant info (age, gender, height, weight, neck, waist, and hip measurements) into my preferred body fat calulator. Measuring yourself can be tricky, so I suggest doing some research, and maybe enlisting the help of a trusted accomplice the first time or two until you get the hang of it. Finally, I try to also use the calipers and my appearance It's always going to be an estimate, but I think I have a pretty good idea.

Exactly my thoughts. More than likely, this is all water fluctuation. Disheartening to see the numbers increase, because weight is the most popular way to measure progress. That's why I'd always recommend taking body measurements. They sometimes reveal changes that the scale does not (e.g: You did NOT get "bigger" or fatter if you look at body measurement trends) A device like this makes it all the much easier:

https://www.amazon.com/Measure-Push-Button-Retract-Ergnomic-Portable/dp/B077Z4DRMS/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=myotape&qid=1571406074&sr=8-6

None of this is very helpful because sizes vary so much even within the same make/model.

Get a tailor’s measuring tape and measure yourself. At minimum you should measure your waist, hips, thighs, and inseam — write those down or commit to memory. Include them whenever asking a question like this.

You should also measure your garments that fit you well so you can compare them to other garments you’re looking to purchase. It takes most the guesswork out of finding the correct size.

measuring tape

Easy Threader Flexible Needle Drawstring replacement and craft tool by schaller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052Y3RRM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This thing works like a champ. Takes seconds to re-thread drawstrings

This and this off your list go really well with this material off mine! I want to make it into a nice romper!

Thank you for the contest!

Check out one of your local tailors and have them measure you. Be upfront about why you are there. If you buy something from them, thats great. I'd tip a tailor $20 to take my measurements if I wasn't giving them any business.
The other option is to have your Significant Other measure you. Then compare those measurements to garments you already own and fit you well.

https://www.amazon.com/Measuring-Measure-Double-Measurement-Sewing/dp/B07SWZVNC3/ref=pd_ybh_a_76?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=TWH3ATMVHM8KKZZV99W1&pldnSite=1

These are the best for threading: Easy Threader Flexible Needle Drawstring replacement and craft tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052Y3RRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yRVwyb370W73P

And you can buy cord anywhere, for example: Wrights Drawstring Cord, 1/4-Inch, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XNQPTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NSVwybBS56HEX

The fabric is cute and for the purpose they'll be fine. Good work.

You should practice your basic stitching so the seams are nice and straight, not bumpy. You can practice on lined paper without thread, but after a time there's no substitute for actual fabric. You can use the guide on the machine, mark the line in tailor's chalk or with a dressmaker's pencil, or baste right alongside the stitching line and use it as a guide.

You need to work on your corners so they are sharp. You should do samples on scraps of fabric. With thin fabric with no interfacing or very thin interfacing it's usually fine to simply sew to the intersection, put the needle down, pivot and sew the other side. But with thick fabric it's often better to sew the corner and leave room in the seam allowance for the bulkiness of the fabric. You do that by stitching across the corner on the diagonal or sewing a semicircle of three to four stitches across it.

You also should experiment with trimming the fabric on the corner before turning it. I wouldn't do it unless necessary, but sometimes it is. Start conservatively.

To pull out out the corners, you can use a bamboo corner turner, but there are other methods, such as using a needle and thread. Don't use use the point of your scissors, you could make a hole.

Sometimes it helps to stop about 1/2 inch from the corner and shorten the stitch length. When you pass the corner, after 1/2 inch you resume the ordinary stitch length.

That's the nature of sewing. There are many variables, even for a corner.

You should also manipulate the seam so when you press the top the underside doesn't show.

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I use these: YEHAM®Disappearing Ink Vanishing Air Erasable Pen(9 PACK,3 COLOR) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0182HZZ02/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_aNMLBbJ5GMNF2

I draw on the grid and the ink comes out when wet! Just make sure to try them each on a spare piece of fabric first. My pink ones leave a weird yellow tint when washed off, but my blue ones work perfectly!

Only real difference between regular sewing and leather/fur sewing us you'll want to use glover needles and a sailors palm, speedy stitcher, or leather thumb cover with a coin in it. These mittens are some of the easiest patterns to trace two identical halves and sew inside out. Best used with glove liners.

this would be super helpful and thanks for doing this contest!

I'm also a big fan of this thing: https://www.amazon.com/Speedy-Stitcher-SEW110-BRK-Sewing-Awl/dp/B0049W6XRE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1518210202&sr=8-2&keywords=speed+stitcher

You can get a curved needle for it, and it's been a huge help in punching through thicker materials when I'm making gear (leather, ballistic nylon, etc).

Highly recommend picking up one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/eBoot-Measure-Sewing-Tailor-Cloth/dp/B01D9RCHDI

Buying clothes online based on height/weight is a struggle not worth fighting. Using your real measurements and manufacturer's sizing charts is a much better way to go (you're still at the mercy of their accuracy, though).

If you are flat they kind of serve no purpose they only make whats there appear bigger. I think you would be better suited looking up padded bras under the shirt they can give the impression of breasts.

I bought a cloth tape measure for measuring underbust and overbust and bought the corresponding bras from amazon. Though its a bit different with a wide chest like mine the cup size has to be dramatically reduced, so if you have a wide chest make sure to check out size guides for trans woman.

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Measure-Sewing-Tailor-Cloth/dp/B01D9RCHDI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485617343&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=cloth+tape+measure&psc=1

Easiest way is to use a threader like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052Y3RRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SxncBbAYTH70X

"Plan B" involves undoing a metal hanger, a long shoestring, and piece of masking tape.

for stubborn threads (and to not waste sheets of lint rollers) also get one of these it'll save your life :) https://www.amazon.com/Dritz-665D-Seam-Fix-Ripper-Purple/dp/B00UY15X2K/ref=sr_1_fkmr3_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1524661291&sr=8-1-fkmr3&keywords=rubber+tipped+seam+ripper

oh nice, i didnt even look that close, it looks almost exactly like mine (i just spray glued a cloth measuring tape to it.)

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Measure-Sewing-Tailor-Cloth/dp/B01D9RCHDI/

I use these and I love them. I've never had a problem. I use wet a washcloth and wipe it off when I'm done. Don't get the pink ones, the disappear too fast.

Don't know if there's an easy free option but there's this: Easy Threader

Get a soft measure tape. Your local craft place should have plenty of them.

Or, use a string to map out your path, then measure the string :)

Something like a tailor's tape measure?

http://www.amazon.com/All-Purpose-Tailor-Dieting-Tape-Measure/dp/B001RUMI20

> yesterday I started wanting something sweet. Will this go away soon?

Maybe, maybe not. There are all sorts of recipes for cheesecakes and other desserts floating around if you'd like to try making stuff. I used to do a chocolate fudge-like concoction with cream cheese, cocoa powder, coconut oil, and liquid stevia. Find something that suits your craving, but don't go overboard.

> Has anyone had any long term success while drinking diet soda? Will I eventually need to cut it out completely?

Ugh. Probably the most controversial topic here. Some people claim it prevents them from entering ketosis or from losing weight. Frankly, I don't believe them. If you're a few weeks in and haven't lost any weight in a week or so, maybe try cutting back. Other than that, have at it.

> I know I need to set a weight goal for myself

Nope. Some people find it useful, but in no way is it required. In fact, I would highly recommend NOT weighing yourself for at least the first month. The best metric is measurements. Get a measuring tape like this one and track your wait, belly, chest, and neck. Often you'll go a week without losing weight, which may be discouraging... but if you'll probably also have lost an inch off your belly in that time. I'm not an expert on the mechanism, but I believe a lot of times your body will replace areas of lost fat with stored water, which comes out about the same in weight, but much denser. You'll notice a drop in inches over time with little change in weight, then BOOM five pounds are gone. Measurements will give you a more consistent indication of how you're doing.

Another alternative: maybe you could simply secure a neoprene camera case inside the backpack. You could use a sewing awl to stitch it in (check out this video).

You know they make things specifically for that purpose. I got this one on Amazon. It did its job remarkably well.

Image.

You're going to want to get this really accurate. Most people use a string or a tailors measure and run that around at his widest point.

I use Leonis pens and have never had a problem with permanent stains. They're really short but seem to hold a lot of ink. They're also much cheaper than other brands.

https://www.amazon.com/LEONIS-Water-Erasable-Marking-78008/dp/B00QTIBOS4/

It's $5 on Amazon

You can use a piece of string and a ruler. You can even print a ruler off assuming you have a printer.

That said tailors tape is relatively inexpensive and can come in handy for taking measurements.

If you're handy, you may be able to stitch it back up with a sewing awl.

Have you tried marking with a wash-out fabric marker? I use the little Japanese markers to mark quilting lines, should work for hem lines too.

A seam ripper with a thread grabber: Dritz 665D Seam-Fix Seam Ripper, Purple https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UY15X2K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_azpUBbQ3ARD2Z

www.killerbeegi.com

Also, change out all of the flat drawstrings on your gi pants with this.

Stretchy rope


Threader


Drawstring cord

Edit: It looks like Killer Bee also has drawstrings cut to size here.

I bought this leather sewing awl http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0049W6XRE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hey, remember that Home Ec stuff you learned? You get to use it now.

When my stuff gets cut or stitching starts to fail, this fixes it right up.