Reddit mentions: The best sewing notions & supplies

I started out with dog collars so a few specific things you will want. If you don't want to buy a leather strap cutter, you can make due with a framing square, adjustable T square, or just a long ruler, its a measure 10x scenario but its not too bad. You will want a really sharp knife for cutting, I use my skiving knife because I can sharpen it, but I have used exacto knives and a rotary cutter and done a decent job with them.

You will want punches! Hole punches are obvious for the holes the buckle will use, but even the ends of the strap a punch can save you a lot of time and effort. Doing curved cuts is trickier than it seems and when there is a matching side to emphasize imperfections and stitching to further complicate things, being able to just use a punch and have it right the first time is fantastic.

As for hardware, get Welded D rings. They are a little more expensive but I'd rather not have a Dring bend and a dog get loose. Like $14 on amazon for 50 of them. I used these buckles was the cheapest I could find that style.

Pricking irons/Diamond Chisels are a must have, they just make the long runs on collars so much easier. That and a good thread and needles. I tried crap thread and tiger thread...I now buy only tiger thread. Its just so much easier to work with and looks a lot better.

here is one of the ones I did for my girlfriends dog
https://imgur.com/a/2y23Rdr


Post I made earlier for someone else, I would invest in:

• diamond awl like this
  
• diamond chisel(only really need the 2 prong and 5-6 prong) I use these
  
• good braided poly thread like this
  
• good needles John James
  
• Good skiving knife this ones a good starter
  
• Wing dividers I bought these
  
• Edge beveler Like this
  
• You'll also want a leather condition(neatsfoot oil is what I use) and a finisher(resolene, beeswax, snoseal, etc)
  
• Contact cement(Dap weldwood) helps keep things together before you sew them
  
• Dye if you want certain colors
  
  For ~$100 bucks investment and you've got most of the stuff you'll need to make good looking stuff, then you just need to buy leather. I highly recommend picking a project, watching some videos on it and then if you need a new tool for it thats when you buy it. My biggest mistake thus far is thinking I could bypass buying a hole punch, the quality using a punch is so much higher than trying to do it by hand.
  
  As for skills. Look up Saddle stitching, easy to learn and hard to master. With those chisels it makes it really easy to get a good looking product with saddle stitching. Wetforming leather, helps make those sheaths, holsters, etc pop out at you. I like watching Nigel Armitage and Ian Atkinson on youtube, informative and you pick up little tips here and there.
  
  You'll also need to learn to keep your knife sharp! So project 1 if you invest is make a strop and get some jewlers rouge to polish that edge to a razor! If you're REALLY in a pinch and have no leather you can use the rouge on cardboard but it does not hold up well.

First: get yourself a nice big pad of 18x24 newsprint, some charcoal (a mix of soft vine charcoal and compressed will give you nice range of values and edges to draw with) a kneaded eraser to pull out highlights and correct mistakes, and a chamois cloth (get it really nice and dirty with charcoal) for laying down smooth tones. It's messy, it's weird, but it gives you much more range than a pencil and costs almost nothing. Working larger and sitting further away will help you to form the habit of drawing from the shoulder for smoother line quality. You want this, especially while you're in the early learning stages. Your first step is to teach your body and eyes what to draw, not how to draw X Y or Z or even how to tattoo. That comes much later, and I'm glad to see you already knew that.

Before you jump into the figure focus on basic geometric forms - basic white cubes, cylinders, cones, spheres, etc. Draw them from life, not photographs or imagination. Something like this would be great. I know, they suck - every student I've ever had has let me know, but now they're off making Big Hero 6, League of Legends, and many other awesome projects and would tell you the same. These basic forms help you by reducing variables so you can focus on how light wraps around the form. The difference between a highlight, form light, form shadow, a core shadow, reflected light, and a cast shadow is difficult to pick out when you're dealing with lots of subtle plane changes. This is where you learn the basics of value control to distinguish between different levels of light. Lay down these values with masses, not individual lines. It's kinda half-way between drawing and painting with a broad brush by using the side of the charcoal rather than just the tip.

Certain types of light/shadow produce different edge qualities, pay attention to how hard or soft transitions are from light to dark and think about the physics behind it to understand why - pinning up some light fabric on the wall with a single light off to the side is a fantastic way to see this - the cloth catches the light, creating form and cast shadows as the light wraps around the folds and reflects a little light back onto nearby surfaces.

The goal here is to understand how to represent the light accurately to describe the form (that is all you're doing as an artist- recreating light to trick the eye, it doesn't matter what the subject is) When you're feeling confident with this (and probably filled up 1-3 of those newsprint pads) move on to still life set ups and introduce some more complex forms and add a dash of color (1-2 at a time, keep it simple) Feel free to start playing with the figure, but you'll be hard pressed to find anything more complex and subtle to attempt. Without a teacher present, Andrew Loomis books will be an invaluable resource once you get to this stage. They're free online as PDFs for the most part.

No! Resist! I am going to school for design and I bought one very similar to this one. You cannot use it for draping. If it is adjusted to any size other than the smallest setting you cannot pin due to the gaps on the sides. Also, in the real sewing world there are specific sizes that you use 0,2,4,6,..... etc. Yes, it is AWESOME to have things custom to the person you are making the garment for, but you need to know that there is a pretty regulated sizing standard that will be used and it might be a good idea just to get one off of amazon. You may want to look at a dress form that has collapsible shoulders, that way you can get the garment over the shoulders of the form (collapsible shoulders mimic putting the arms above the head).
When I had my Singer dress form it broke. Not because I am reckless, but because there are metal spoke like things that bare a lot of tension and they connect to a thin plastic base. These broke off leaving the adjustments useless. Also the fabric ripped on my dress form (crappy foam and fabric on top), and the form would actually slide down when ever I adjusted it to the height I desired.
Again, I sugest that you get a different kind. One that has a foot pedal adjustment, that is in a standard size, has collapsible shoulders, and is covered in nicer fabric.
Now remember, if you go with a nicer one they are usually made of paper mache on the inside, be careful around water. Now for the plastic ones, you need to be careful with irons, they may melt because of the synthetic fabric on the form. And lastly standard size dressforms may be different than the size jeans that you wear. I always have to go a size or two up, just like most patterns. I suggest that you chose the best size that you want and you understand the measurements of that particular form.
That is all! I have been through a similar situation, spending $100 dollars on a piece of crap that will last you 2 years is not going to help you in the long run. Paying $200 for a dressform that will last you for a long time depending on how you take care of it, will actually end up saving you money.
Also, I know you are on a budget, but if you hem things, take things in on the side, make wallets, and charge $10 for each thing, if you get 10 things done you will have $100! Huzzah! You can afford a new dress form! All you have to do is make the time and it will be worth your money :)

This is the one I have http://www.amazon.com/ST-SIZE6-Professional-Female-Collapsible-shoulder/dp/B0049IPGR6/ref=sr_1_28?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1348639289&sr=1-28
Good luck!

In that case, it seems like he has a really good appetite and may just not be storing much fat, yet (which is normal). A couple things I would do is get a small scale and a tape measure, just to track if he's growing, and just record the numbers in a note on your phone or simple Excel spreadsheet, along with how much he's eating, so you don't have to rely on your memory to spot any trends if he never grows or starts losing weight.

The scale I use is this one, currently $8.50 on Amazon, and a flexible tape measure like this, currently $4.85. I also second making sure he doesn't have intestinal parasites, which is something I would do even if he wasn't showing any symptoms, as infections like coccidia are extremely common and easy to spread within clutches. (Most vet clinics in my area will do a fecal test for under $20).

All that said, there's nothing from your post which would make me think there's something wrong with your dragon. Tracking the babies for the first couple of months is just something I do for peace of mind.

Good luck!

Edit: Here's an article about determining if your bearded dragon is underweight (though the method mostly applies to adults), as well as some tips for getting them to gain some weight. "2 Surefire Ways To Make a Bearded Dragon Gain Weight And Fatten Them Up"

To be honest, you're asking a lot for your budget. If you want to sit next to the speaker and be able to listen to it at a reasonable volume, something like this would probably work well enough: http://www.amazon.com/Portable-Wireless-Bluetooth-Speaker-High-Def/dp/B00GZC35YK/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1427349938&sr=1-9&keywords=portable+speaker

But if you want to be able to actually be active and hear your music, you're going to have to get something much bigger. That said, you can do it without breaking your budget.

My advice would be to by a pair of these: http://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Powered-Computer-Speakers-A100/dp/B00GHY5F3K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1427350132&sr=8-2&keywords=usb+speakers

Power them with this: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-13000mAh-Portable-External-Cellphones/dp/B00K64WR9C/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427350210&sr=8-1&keywords=battery+pack

And fasten them all together with this stuff (it's incredibly strong, trust me) http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-All-Weather-Fasteners-Inches-RFD7090/dp/B00347A8EO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1427350273&sr=8-7&keywords=dual+lock

That comes in at around $49 and while it's not going to blast your music, it will do you much better than any sub $50 bluetooth speaker.

Now if you're willing to spend some extra money, get one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Ultimate-Wireless-Bluetooth-Speaker-Speakerphone/dp/B00E9YIFQ4/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1427350482&sr=8-8&keywords=ultimate+ears

I can attest from personal experience that it's a pretty powerful little speaker, sounds great, and you can pair two of them for stereo listening.

Everything TheItinerantSkeptic said! My few add ons....

1. Lighting is key. You want to make sure the color matches as closely to the actual item otherwise you risk the buyer opening a case about item description. I only use natural light and I use an iPhone so I adjust the coloring with the phone's built-in photo editor. IMO never use flash!
   
   
2. I purchased a mannequin from Amazon and it was the best $40 I ever spent for Posh. The one I have is on sale right now, the link is here I noticed that I started moving more clothing & had less questions about fit when I had them on a mannequin so it might be worth buying. I also always list the measurements of the garment in the description again, to avoid a case being opened about fit.
   
   The only other things I would add...
   

• Be as accurate as you can with your description. Adjectives are your friend. Call out any flaws no matter how minor they may be.
  
• Keep on top of buyer's questions and be prompt & courteous in your responses.
  
• Don't get hung up on ratings. While of course we all want to only ever get glowing 5-star reviews, there are some people out there that will dock you for the smallest thing so if someone does, just carry on.
  
  Happy Poshing!
  
  

You can remove them but I personally just leave them attached all the time, I don't find that they get in the way of anything. I use this chair for my normal computer stuff too, the brackets haven't changed anything. Here's a picture of how my chair looks with the brackets to give you a better idea (don't mind the messy cables on the floor). My previous chair wasn't as wide as this one, so the brackets kind of squished my legs a little when I was sitting in it, but it's not a problem with my current chair.

The brackets are very sturdy, you can swivel and rotate them but it takes a lot of force to do so. There's no movement at all when I use my joystick. The only thing is with the velcro - over time, after you've attached and un-attached your joystick so many times, it loses its strength, in which case the joystick does wiggle around a little bit. I personally just replace the velcro every once in a while, and that works fine for me. You could try a heavier duty velcro if it's a concern. I've been using this kind and it's been good enough for me. Hope this helps!

> This is what I was talking about:
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Grommet-Eyelet-Setting-Pliers-Grommets/dp/B0047AKK0Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524798079&sr=8-3&keywords=eyelet+kit
>
> I feel like enough of those, along with some good paracord and a properly anchored hook, would do the job

Interesting thank you!! That just may do it :D I wish they said what the grommets were made of (am thinking that if they're a weak tin that they'd break easier), though if I order that and have 100 grommets I could literally put like 20 on the thing and use paracord (I've got some on-hand that'd be perfect for this) through them all to make a 'net' at the top that terminates at a hook so I can hang it from a chain (as it'll be an outside punching bag, am hanging it from a tree-limb :) )

Thanks, I found some felt my mother had from another project, and I think I agree that this is the ideal stuff. I had imagined felt to be more cottony and easily frayed, but it seems really stable.

Have you ever used this iron on hemming tape? http://www.amazon.com/IRON-ON-HEMMING-TAPE/dp/B005O9WU9Q
Seems like I might save myself a ton of time if that works reasonably well for this project.

Yeah, I also shop online unless I'm away and feeling confident. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071XGLB1S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 One of these tape measures for body measuring will be your new best friend. I shop at Amazon a lot. I like H&M for some basics, including undies. And there are store galore that specialize in whatever style you want to cultivate. If having things shipped to your home is a problem, and you don't have the option of receiving packages at work, Amazon also has pick up location options.

-cable tray(s) $22 - perfect for screwing into a think desk like yours, power strips can live in here as well

-nylon/velcro ties $7 - possibly cheaper at your local hardware store

With kush white walls like that a lil cable management might improve how you feel walking in every day!

Nice setup. Foot warmer could use some RGB tho

I've used a brightly colored floss, washable markers and this stuff https://www.scarletquince.com/blog/?p=568. I usually use aida cloth and do 10x10 grid. I can't speak to linens or other fabrics.
- For me, markers win for ease of use. I've never had any ghosting of marks or bleeding from the floss (I use DMC floss most of the time) when washing marks away. I like this brand. https://www.amazon.com/LEONIS-Water-Erasable-Marking-78008/dp/B00QTIBOS4/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1G8HLG2TTLIQ4&keywords=washable+fabric+markers+for+sewing&qid=1574460816&sprefix=washable+fabr%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-4.
- Floss can be hard to remove cleanly. I don't love having to use tweezers and potentially messing up my stitches.
- I haven't used the monofilament on any extensive projects but plan to on my next project. I am ordering some 8 lb. red monofilament from Amazon to try, as it is more reasonably priced than the branded Easy Count stuff.

Hope this helps.

I have one of those scales and it’s a piece of crap. I don’t trust it’s body fat estimates at all. If I have some carbs (usually from beer) I’ll put on a kilo or 2 of water and it disappears with a day or 2. The scales think this is mostly fat.

I’ve lost about 70lbs of fat over the last 3 years and I’ve had periods where I didn’t know whether I was losing fat or muscle and also gaining fat or muscle (when eating at a surplus). The best thing I did was get a cheap body measuring tape which makes it really easy to take consistent measurements of my body. You can then use the Navy or YMCA body fat calculator to estimate body fat %. From there you can estimate how much fat and lean mass you’re carrying around. I track this in a google sheet and I can see what’s happened each month.

The first 2 months on carnivore (after losing bloat, water weight etc) saw me weight stable but I lost about an inch from my waist. I didn’t care whether it was muscle (my strength actually dropped) or bone or organs that kept my weight stable but I knew I’d lost fat. You’re still early on your journey - get one and take measurements now, record them somewhere (you’ll thank yourself later on). Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Measure-Push-Button-Retract-Ergnomic-Portable/dp/B077Z4DRMS/

I make my own. Before we had a sewing machine I used a snap tool I picked up ( https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01435LTUW/)
to snap piece of fabric together because I didn't have the patience to hand sew them. It was actually pretty effective and cheap all things considered.

Now I sew them. I have experimented with a number of different types and styles but my girls like honeycomb hammocks the best.

Awesome! Thanks mate.Found Some Extra Patches on Amazon as well. you'll have to put your own Velcro Backing on But that's easy enough.

Patches

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KD7Q1W4/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B07KD7Q1W4&pd_rd_w=OmVXL&pf_rd_p=8a8f3917-7900-4ce8-ad90-adf0d53c0985&pd_rd_wg=OkvH5&pf_rd_r=K79AX4NW6269AD6052P1&pd_rd_r=22321f11-6c34-11e9-94d4-49728df24266

​

Large Jacked Patch.

https://www.amazon.com/Apollo-Mission-Patch-Collage-Nasa/dp/B00ON7CMY8/ref=sr_1_14?keywords=Nasa+Patches&qid=1556730113&s=gateway&sr=8-14#customerReviews

​

Velcro Options:https://www.amazon.com/Approx-Adhestive-Strips-Sticky-Fastener/dp/B01AI28QFU/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=iron+on+velcro&qid=1556730302&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/BRAVESHINE-Self-Adhesive-Hook-Loop/dp/B07DC5C4WW/ref=sr_1_21?keywords=iron%2Bon%2Bvelcro&qid=1556730302&s=gateway&sr=8-21&th=1

Edit: Correcting Links

Go to your local fabric store and buy a yard of rip-stop nylon for around $5 and a cordlock (or this kit from ripstopbytheroll). If you don't already have one yourself, find a friend or relative that has a sewing machine. Watch this video. In about 20 minutes, you will be the proud owner of a brand new stuff sack that is exactly the right size (with that yard of fabric you can actually make a few stuff sacks!). Then post a picture of your creation over on /r/MYOG and prepare for the onslaught of karma you will receive for your amazing creation!

The inner layer is more of a challenge, It’s from this pattern- https://m.imgur.com/gallery/kOXYm

I’m sure you could find a video on channels for drawstring, I just shook the down and made a folded edge then sewed it up.

The snaps, I bought a starter kit on amazon, size 20 kamsnaps, really easy installation- https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01435LTUW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1509736223&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=kam+snaps&psc=1

Extra length was from another throw I had, used the rest of the throw for a blanket for my pup.

It’s a fun project and a great piece of gear, I’m still learning as I go when it comes to sewing.
I say jump in and go for it.

I'd recommend putting them on some plastic thread bobbins. You can get a bunch on Amazon for like $5 or $6 bucks. You can write the thread number in sharpie on the bobbin if you need to keep track.

The other thing would be to get a thread organizer. I've got two of these and they're pretty great. It comes with the thread bobbins and stickers w/ DMC numbers on them as well.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M15BBX5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I mean, can't they change their company name? I guess its probably not cheap, but then this is a problem literally because they have been too successful in their marketing

edit: Maybe I'm wrong, not an expert, but it seems to me they are in this predicament because they advertised their products as Velcro, not Velcro hook and loop.

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-Strips/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=velcro&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Sticky-Strips-Black/dp/B000TGSPV6/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=velcro&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Sticky-Back-Black/dp/B00006IC2L/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-6&keywords=velcro

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-Black/dp/B00006RSP1/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-7&keywords=velcro

https://smile.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Thin-Fasteners-Tape/dp/B0013AIAQ2/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1506366556&sr=8-10&keywords=velcro

None of them list hook and loop anywhere, though to their credit they do list Velcro BRAND very clearly. And one of them does mention the product type as fastener. They should start advertising and packaging them as Velco brand hook and loop fasteners. That way if someone challenges their trademark in court, they can point out that every single one of their product's promotional material clearly separates the product from the company - right now, that's not clear in their own marketing (outside this video of course).

So I think people make it sound harder than it is. I ordered this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FMUJ8BO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AI28QFU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I made paper cutouts of the rough shape of the sliders I want, transfered that to the teflon (with sharpie or so). Cut it out with a saw roughly and then just sanded with 120 to more precise shape, 200 to make it smooth, 600 to "polish" and then some sheep skin for really smooth edges at the end. The velcro stuff glued on to it out of the box and so far after couple months of curling having no issues with it adhering either to shoe nor teflon. The etched ones were expensive. I switches shoes since so the slider isn't perfect shape anymore, but still works perfectly well for curling so far. I also bought 2-component glue and all kinds of fancy chemicals to make it stick better, but the Chinese velcro has some magic glue on it already. Don't overthink it and just give it a try.

https://imgur.com/FVy61PE

P.S. with size 9, the 12x12 sheet was a bit tight, but should work up to 11 or so, depending what size slider you need. You can probably experiment with the hole in the middle etc. I also purchased these: https://www.stevescurling.com/product-p/sldisc.htm but they are a bit thin and don't slide fast enough imo, prefer the PTFE 1/4". Feel free to shoot me more questions, but it's really much simpler than it seems and a lot of people make it out to be.

ha ha ha! I sure hope so... I already have some rope and Velcro straps so this will be a nice alternative to add some variety.

Exactly my thoughts. More than likely, this is all water fluctuation. Disheartening to see the numbers increase, because weight is the most popular way to measure progress. That's why I'd always recommend taking body measurements. They sometimes reveal changes that the scale does not (e.g: You did NOT get "bigger" or fatter if you look at body measurement trends) A device like this makes it all the much easier:

https://www.amazon.com/Measure-Push-Button-Retract-Ergnomic-Portable/dp/B077Z4DRMS/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=myotape&qid=1571406074&sr=8-6

I've used this to add velcro to a bunch of stuff. Super strong and reasonably priced. I needed to add a cloth badge onto the front of my carrier and couldn't find way to make it easy to remove. Worked very well. I've even had leftover velcro that I have used for other projects.

https://amzn.to/2WLuWqi

The cast members who will trade to you will (should) have a special tag at the end of their lanyard that says something to the effect of "Hey, I'll trade pins with you!"

Maybe someone has a picture of what I'm talking about?

Re: putting your pins on a backpack, I really like this idea! :D You can purchase lockable backs for your pins at any of the shops at WDW. I'm also relatively certain you can find them cheaper online.

Something like this although I can't guarantee -these- will work with Disney pins, the ones in the Disney shops definitely will.

If you use these locking backs, then you don't have to worry about them falling off of your backpack!

The felt does both. The glass spacer doesn’t have the curve that follows the edge of the headset so the felt blocks light and gets the proper angle so the pad is actually resting on something. Everything is fastened by the adhesive of the felt or Velcro but I did use string to tighten a few places.

I use VELCRO Brand Industrial Strength Fasteners | Stick-On Adhesive | Professional Grade Heavy Duty Strength Holds up to 10 lbs on Smooth Surfaces | Indoor Outdoor Use | 4 x 2 inch Strips, 4 Sets, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_k7EsDbRW79609

This is the same Velcro I used to attach DAS it’s easy to cut to shape and applies very firmly.

I find the upside-down, shin-mounted controller method the most natural for foot tracking too. I've had good luck with one inch velcro one-wrap. One strip between the trigger and closest sensor, and one higher up the leg/controller.

The Vive wand naturally wants to settle off the actual bone of the shin towards the outside of the leg and foot. This position also seems to be a little less prone to occlusion issues.

I'm going to pick up a pair of the flipsteady VCM1 controller mounts a user posted below since they look nice and sturdy.

Official lighthouse-enabled foot-tracking is probably on the way, but it's nice to experiment until then!

Can someone explain why this sub seems to like these things?

I am of the opinion one should learn something the analogue way until experimenting with a tablet. For one, I find digital art to be lacking texture and sometimes emotion. People wonder "did this person just put an image into photoshop and trace details?"

I would highly recommend spending $20 mastering these basic shapes under a single light source. One could even use an egg, a marshmallow, a shoebox, etc instead.

A 9 year old could draw an accurate sphere from observation no problem even if they can't yet understand the theory of light and form. By this observational exercise, the theory diagram will be self-evident to your son and intuitive over time. Later, the inverse of these forms (a bowl, the inside of a shoebox) are equally important.

Given this knowledge, your son will be well equipped later on, and perhaps the tablet could be a gift for going to middle/high school.

tldr: IMHO a tablet offers little chance to improve one's art compared to a marshmallow.

Good question, and it pains me a bit that I have a small box of unused tools that were purchased when I began. I'm sure I missed a few things, but here you go:

• Lamp I love this thing, and it's silly how much it improved my craft.
  
• Utility knife (Stanley) with many replacement blades. I flip then toss these frequently.
  
• Shovel knife
  
• Beveler
  
• Burnishers
  
• Microfiber clothes
  
• Granite block
  
• Stitching pony (handmade and based upon http://www.instructables.com/id/3rd-Hand-Leather-Stitching-Clamp/)
  
• Awl
  
• Diamond Awl
  
• Wing Divider
  
• Pliers
  
• Craft scissors
  
• Thread snips
  
• Bone folder
  
• Mallet
  
• Cobbler hammer
  
• Ruler
  
• Cutting mat
  
• Detail brushes
  
• Needles
  
• Tokonole
  
• Glue
  
• Glue brushes
  
• 50/50 neatsfoot oil and beeswax (double-boiled)
  
• Heat gun
  
• Ritza Tiger thread
  
• Chisels I use these as pricking irons because they leave a massive hole
  
• Dremel
  
• Bulldog clips
  
  If links weren't provided then I already had the item.

Haha, it’s a “mounting system” that I’m actually super happy with!

Just two long pieces of Velcro strapping (about 1” wide) threaded over the desk frame but under the desk top. The Velcro overlaps itself around the bottom of the case, by about 18”. I also stuck a plastic door bumper between the case and the desk leg, to keep the case hanging more or less vertical.

It’s very very solid. Much more than I would have anticipated. I can hit the power button on the case without any movement at all.

Here is an Amazon link to the straps

For reference, I ordered this one off Amazon. Literally THE cheapest one I could find, even with shipping. It looks shockingly good and was really easy to put together. I'm actually EXCITED to take pictures right now!

My two cents: Everybody I know who has purchased a cheap dress form has come to regret it, or say that they never get any use out of it because it is unstable, the dials get in the way, it doesn't easily hold pins, etc.

I've never heard anybody say, "Hey I really regret that evening I spent making a duct tape dress form!" Actually I have heard a few people say that they like their duct tape dress forms. So if you have a low budget, there's really not any harm that can come from attempting to make your own! You could end up loving it, and the worst case is that you decide you'd rather purchase one instead.

I have been a craft/hobby sewer since 2005, and finally took the dress form plunge this spring by buying this dress form on Amazon. The downside is that she is not adjustable, but I know that you can give certain areas padding to make sure that you get a proper fit if you need to (my bust matches the form's measurements but not my waist!) But for me, exact measurement matches just weren't as big of a priority. I am more interested in learning to drape, and use my form often to model my works in progress/finished projects, and did I mention that she also just looks damn cool in my studio!

Easy Threader Flexible Needle Drawstring replacement and craft tool by schaller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052Y3RRM?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

This thing works like a champ. Takes seconds to re-thread drawstrings

Hey thanks a lot!

It's holding up using the strongest velcro tape I could find at my local hardware store.
It's strong enough as it doesn't move at all even my I plug or unplug XLR cables from it.

I think that's exactly what I used: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA

These are the best for threading: Easy Threader Flexible Needle Drawstring replacement and craft tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052Y3RRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yRVwyb370W73P

And you can buy cord anywhere, for example: Wrights Drawstring Cord, 1/4-Inch, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002XNQPTC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_NSVwybBS56HEX

I would say it's as close to the vive w/ DAS as the quest could be comfort-wise, an immense improvement overall. The face cushion of the vive is more plush but that's the only difference IMO.

Links are in the description, but here they are as well:

• HTC Vive Deluxe Audio Strap - http://amzn.com/B06Y2GDXMC
  
• VELCRO Industrial Strength Strips: http://amzn.com/B0010HADEA
  
• 1 Inch Velcro Straps (The ones I used, but you can find better): http://amzn.com/B074V2MFMC
  
• 1 Inch Velcro Straps (Better ones): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0TTPL8
  
• 1.5 Inch D Ring: http://amzn.com/B076J5RVNW
  
  edit: added new velcro

Their "slim" cut is absolutely huge man, there's no way someone of your size is going to fit properly in it. Like check their shirt dimensions, the difference between a slim and extra slim is 2.5" in both the chest and waist. The super slim is 4.5" slimmer in the waist comparatively.

​

I have a vastly different build from you at 5'7" 150 lbs, so much chunkier than you, but I had to get an extra slim fit 15" neck even though my normal neck is 15.5". There are collar extenders you can use so that the neck doesn't choke you out if you do go down a size.

I would use something like this plastic velcro which could also give the games a floating effect from the back. You could alternatively use standard velcro but it would be harder to keep them perfectly level.

Like others have said dog bed with rubber bottom should help. If you want it more secured add this to the bottom of the bed.

I honestly think you're shilling these all wrong because you're missing the whole point. You keep downplaying that they are magnetic but thats the main selling point of the product.

There are plenty of options for locking pin backs out there (those are three different links), and these screw-on types are actually reviled by many for warping the studs on the back of pins, or leaving dents on it.

Again, the ability to turn pins into magnets is absolutely brilliant. Locking pin backs is not new territory.

this would be super helpful and thanks for doing this contest!

I used double sided Velcro “tape” a few weeks ago. Wrapped it twice around my leg at different heights and it worked perfectly. Can get a roll of it for $6-$7 and it has a ton of other nice uses.

VELCRO Brand - ONE-WRAP Roll, Double-Sided, Self Gripping Multi-Purpose Hook and Loop Tape, Reusable, 12' x 3/4" Roll - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000078CUB/

USB docking station may help or any type of docking station

Little things can help like :

-cable length (use length you need not anything longer; especially for the permanent fixtures that won't require alot of moving)

-bundle the wires up. I'll provide some examples

1)https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Management-Sleeve-additional-velcro/dp/B01N3ZTRWH/ref=sr_1_7?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1501796199&sr=1-7&keywords=velcro+wire

2)https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Double-Sided-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000078CUB/ref=sr_1_6?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1501796199&sr=1-6&keywords=velcro+wire

Get some cord locks like these

Set up a few along the length of the wire and move them back as you go. If you do it right it should keep everything in line pretty well.

They make these button extender things that loop onto the button and give like an extra half inch to work with if you try the 14.5 Try these

I’ve used them before and they work pretty well.

you can try something like this, https://www.amazon.com/Approx-Adhestive-Strips-Sticky-Fastener/dp/B01AI28QFU/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_201_bs_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=RAQ8RH8B64KGGQGA7DST. which is attached via adhesives on both the patch and the box. once they are both secured, you can stick the patch on or take it off the box whenever you'd like.

What about something like this or something like this that’s easily just snapped closed and put away? That’s how I keep my floss away from dogs who consider everything “theirs” 😂. I also keep my WIP in something like this so I’m able to keep it out of dust and pet hair while still being both portable and easily storable.

You can get hemming tape that doesn't require sewing - you just place it between the fabric and iron it, which melts the adhesive. Like this It's really nice if you don't/can't sew and just need to make a straight edge

For anyone else interested in adding this to their Formula rim:

(*note the screen is simply velcroed to the face of the rim so that it can be easily removed and replaced. You still have full access to the setup button and screen.)

Screen: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAG12DG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Case: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07916HTWY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Velcro: https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Fasteners-Professional/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?crid=3SDOM935U6TXI&keywords=velcro+strips+with+adhesive+heavy+duty&qid=1567718060&s=automotive&sprefix=velcro%2Cautomotive%2C194&sr=1-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFINFJRWkE0UjdQUTEmZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwMjYwMzkxRlAyNVBEUDJTWU5YJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA1MjA5NjIxRTZBMko5OEdLUVIwJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

USB to TTL: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014Y1IMNM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Coiled USB: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VUK7IIQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB Extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH11PEY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Carbon Fiber Wrap: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0154C6Q74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

SimHub: https://www.simhubdash.com/

Highly recommend picking up one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/eBoot-Measure-Sewing-Tailor-Cloth/dp/B01D9RCHDI

Buying clothes online based on height/weight is a struggle not worth fighting. Using your real measurements and manufacturer's sizing charts is a much better way to go (you're still at the mercy of their accuracy, though).

The Velcro has a sticky back that will glue to almost any surface. I just prepped the bag and the patches by cleaning them with alcohol. I didn't even have to stitch anything. It glues on very strong. I got it from my local hardware store. I'm sure you can find something similar online Like This

This is my list.
4x2" Industrial Velcro
Tri-Glide Slide
1.5" Wide One Wrap Velcro

Other people use a D-Ring instead but I prefer the look of the tri-glide slide instead. You need to make sure to use Industrial Velcro for the attachment of the DAS.

Here is what mine looks like

Try some 3M dual lock pads like they use on the back of the EZpass transponders and such. I use these on my cam and it's very easy to take off and put back up. https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-All-Weather-Fasteners-Inches-RFD7090/dp/B00347A8EO/

If you are flat they kind of serve no purpose they only make whats there appear bigger. I think you would be better suited looking up padded bras under the shirt they can give the impression of breasts.

I bought a cloth tape measure for measuring underbust and overbust and bought the corresponding bras from amazon. Though its a bit different with a wide chest like mine the cup size has to be dramatically reduced, so if you have a wide chest make sure to check out size guides for trans woman.

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Measure-Sewing-Tailor-Cloth/dp/B01D9RCHDI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1485617343&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=cloth+tape+measure&psc=1

This is what I was talking about:

https://www.amazon.com/Grommet-Eyelet-Setting-Pliers-Grommets/dp/B0047AKK0Y/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524798079&sr=8-3&keywords=eyelet+kit

I feel like enough of those, along with some good paracord and a properly anchored hook, would do the job.

I would use double sided tape of some sort to make-shift put it back on, or a better option would be to purchase adhesive Velcro straps like these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GFr7CbN78G7WD

Easiest way is to use a threader like this one:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052Y3RRM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_SxncBbAYTH70X

"Plan B" involves undoing a metal hanger, a long shoestring, and piece of masking tape.

I use the DAS that i had for the vive, ordered the 3d printed pieces to hook the pimax to it. Pimax face foam felt good but need the HMD around an inch or two more from my face. Used double sided velcro in between the face foam and HMD and it looks like it just might be enough.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000078CUB

While the naysayers are right and it's a bit unsafe I recommend strong velcro tape like this, in the case of a crash the battery pack would be ripped off, but under all other conditions that velcro will hold anything securely in place even at speed.

> 5). Don't wear anything with spikes.

im making a denim vest with the little square pyramid studs on it for the show right now lol

>10). They say keep your wristband on for the duration of the festival, but honestly if you leave it a little loose you can manage to get it on and off at the beginning and end of the day.

COUGHCOUGH

A little more compact version and if you're looking instead to add snaps, Kamsnaps are awesome for that.

These might help: https://www.amazon.com/Lapel-Pin-Locking-Backs-Keepers/dp/B007IU94Z2

I've used them to secure my Nephew's Disney Pins while at Disneyland

Maybe try something like this Scotch(R) All-Weather Fasteners, 2 Sets of 1 Inch x 3 Inches, Strips, Clear (RFD7090) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00347A8EO/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_QL7PCb0PW60YH

The patch is iron-on so I attached some of this Velcro with its adhesive and it has worked great.

oh nice, i didnt even look that close, it looks almost exactly like mine (i just spray glued a cloth measuring tape to it.)

https://www.amazon.com/eBoot-Measure-Sewing-Tailor-Cloth/dp/B01D9RCHDI/

Unless you're going to be doing a lot of them, I'm going to just recommend something like these

https://smile.amazon.com/Lapel-Pin-Locking-Backs-Keepers/dp/B007IU94Z2/ref=smi_www_rco2_go_smi_g2609328962?_encoding=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0&ie=UTF8

I haven't personally used these, but I've heard of them, and they seemed to get a good score.

I use these and I love them. I've never had a problem. I use wet a washcloth and wipe it off when I'm done. Don't get the pink ones, the disappear too fast.

>since I'm short all of them were too long.

it doesnt take much to hem them. you can even get iron-fused tape and just go at it with an iron. its not a permanent fix, but at least you can wear it and decide if you want to properly get it hemmed, or donate it.

>more suited for a girl in her early 20s instead of her late 20s.

Do you like it? then its suited for you. imho. .

If you want the 'I dont want to see any hanging wires look', you might get good results if you mount the power strip beneath your desk. Since it seems rather large it may be heavy. You can either screw it into your desk or you could try heavy duty Velcro Strips. There are also under desk trays and baskets you can use to just hold everything.

If you dont mind some wires showing, you can try sleeves for the cables and use a cable box for the power strip.

I found some really soft double sided Velcro from the craft store and it works really well with the sport sheet harness and my medium Nova as well as Peirce.

Edit: I believe it's this Velcro https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Double-Sided-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000078CUB/

Yeah, you gotta get the locking pin backs.

Something like this: Lapel Pin - Locking Pin Backs (Pin Keepers) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007IU94Z2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O7IACb6VT39BZ

After googling your keywords this looks different but similar. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0047AKK0Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Y0dCCbX1PNN5B
So a smaller version for smaller gromets?
When you squeeze the handle only the little bump touches the other side. Like it would make a dent in a piece of paper

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-All-Weather-Fasteners-Inches-RFD7090/dp/B00347A8EO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1419056661&sr=8-7&keywords=3m+dual+lock

Sticks to glass, and pretty much anything else. Removes without any residue.

Throw your scale in the garbage and save your sanity....

https://www.amazon.com/Measure-Push-Button-Retract-Ergnomic-Portable/dp/B077Z4DRMS/ref=sr_1_40?keywords=body+tape&qid=1570817899&sr=8-40

These boxes from Amazon come with 100 plastic bobbins and a set of DMC stickers.

I used to have have half my floss stored in a sewing box sorted by color family until that became to full more to house any more, and the other half was collected in a big black hole of plastic grocery bag. I can’t express enough how good this organization feels!

Don't know if there's an easy free option but there's this: Easy Threader

Maybe a collar extender would help reduce the contact without making the neck hole too large?

I bought my Velcro on amazon but I went to Home Depot for a D ring and found the same Velcro there as well

Get a soft measure tape. Your local craft place should have plenty of them.

Or, use a string to map out your path, then measure the string :)

You can get them at the parks, or if you want to get some beforehand they have them on Amazon. Here are some: http://www.amazon.com/Lapel-Pin-Locking-Backs-Keepers/dp/B007IU94Z2

They also sell the official Disney ones on Amazon, although they are more expensive.

The long wait for the VRCover drove me to find an alternative so I took a gamble on some Vive face cushions. There are probably better alternatives but here is what I did:

​

Bought this

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCHYD6T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and this

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0010HADEA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

I cut the velcro strips into little rectangles and put them on the glasses spacer, then I simply attached the face cushion to spacer. It doesn't fit perfectly, you gotta work it into the correct shape. However I actually dig the foam padding, it's more comfortable than the stock foam and doesn't absorb sweat which I really like. It's not a high quality product though, there is some tearing at the seams but it doesn't seem to be getting any larger. Also depending on how you get the cushion to fit there could be a little leakage on the sides, not much though. I don't know notice it at all while playing. No idea if that makes the Quest vulnerable to sun damage so be careful and don't blame me if you damage your Quest. Lastly, the foam makes wearing certain glasses uncomfortable, I use some thin harry potter style glasses for VR though and they work just fine. Obviously not a perfect solution but it works well for me.

​

Edit: Just noticing there are Vive Pro cushions (I hadn't noticed before). Those might work out better for glasses. Can't say for sure.

Yes, REI does as well. The common name for them is cord locks.

Plastic Cord Locks End Spring Stop Toggle Stoppers Multi-colour (10PCS, Black)

It's a cord lock for something like a drawstring.

Like this

You know they make things specifically for that purpose. I got this one on Amazon. It did its job remarkably well.

Image.

I got the entire organizer for $12 on amazon. They're called 'floss bobbins' i think and can be purchased by themselves if you want!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M15BBX5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_dtiVCbQDQMPYY

http://www.amazon.com/KYDEX-Sheet-0-028-Thick-Black/dp/B00KDMLJ0A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451183913&sr=8-1&keywords=Kydex

http://www.amazon.com/Grommet-Eyelet-Setting-Pliers-Grommets/dp/B0047AKK0Y/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1451183913&sr=8-10&keywords=Kydex

I used things like these, my oven, and a YouTube tutorial. Kydex, when heated is very pliable, and cools solid. If you mess up, you can heat and remold again. You only need .06 thickness, any thicker is left to gun holsters. I then use an old belt to help mold a g-clip from a Kydex strip, and thats really it. I haven't bought a sheath in many years. Any further questions, just reply, I'll check back in the morning.

You can buy iron-on hemming tape for situations like this, by the way. Just stick it on the tag and iron it down. It takes a little longer than cutting the tag off, but it helps you avoid sharp-edged tags and lets you continue to read the washing recommendations.

Disclaimer: I have used this method to keep combat boots tied and tight for the last 12 years of a military career, this is a tip for anyone that wants to make their life significantly easier during airsoft while running around in combat boots.

Step 1: Grab a set of Cord locks from anywhere (ebay, amazon, random gear)

I like using these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FH9DYU6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Step 2: Take the laces and feed them through the clip and tie a knot on the end of each lace

Step 3: Put foot in boot, tighten cord locks down to comfortable point of boots

Step 4: Wrap the laces around the back of the boot and around the cord lock

Step 5: Make the laces taut and tuck the ends or what’s left over into the boots

Step 6: Enjoy a day of running around without worrying about your boots coming undone

Side note: Sometimes the laces will get a little slack in them but your boots will remain tight on your feet, when they get slack, just make them taut again and tuck back into boot

Edit: damn auto correct!

Looks like some of THIS cut to length + some of THIS = What the guy in your picture is wearing.

Found them on amazon.

Embroidery Floss Organizer Box - 17 Compartments with 100 Hard Plastic Floss Bobbins and 640 Floss Number Stickers. (Full Set) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M15BBX5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CYmSDb5ZBS854

I wear the pace rival crops and I love them, mine don’t slip but I did buy a size down. In the past before I sized down, I used those plastic spring cord lock things on the drawstring instead of tying it in a knot. I get the flat ones and they don’t bother me at all during the workout. You can find them on amazon or probably in a craft store.

ETA: link for what I’m talking about https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FH9DYU6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xZYyCbBD1SP75

I use a couple of these for tightening the string, I don't have to mess with the rods.

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Spring-Toggle-Stoppers-Multi-colour/dp/B01FH9DYU6

I would say they are worth it, lost my Taylor Swift pin with a normal back. You can also get some with a screw.

Buy this, only use the hook side, and cut to fit.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-Industrial-Strength-Superior/dp/B0010HADEA/

Check ebay and amazon. This should have everything you need.

P.S The spool things are called bobbins and you can get them in plastic and cardboard form, I personally use cardboard but it doesn't matter that much.

I use Leonis pens and have never had a problem with permanent stains. They're really short but seem to hold a lot of ink. They're also much cheaper than other brands.

https://www.amazon.com/LEONIS-Water-Erasable-Marking-78008/dp/B00QTIBOS4/

If the bottom of the box is flush and your on hardwood, this is what we use for a very similar problem.

VELCRO Brand - Industrial Strength - 2" x 4" Strips, 4 Sets - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1cPazb0WVBM40

You can use a piece of string and a ruler. You can even print a ruler off assuming you have a printer.

That said tailors tape is relatively inexpensive and can come in handy for taking measurements.

I’m using Velcro, that way, I can adjust or remove the camera whenever I need to.

I don't think you're going to find one with a hook. However, you can get some grommet pliers (get the right size!) to go with grommets with hooks that, maybe, you can find somewhere (2 minutes of looking and I haven't found any, and now I surrender the search to you).....

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-90209-Industrial-Strength/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=mp_s_a_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1524920570&sr=8-7&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=velcro+tape&dpPl=1&dpID=41moZkWVLnL&ref=plSrch

If you decide to go with velcro, use this:

http://www.amazon.com/Scotch-All-Weather-Fasteners-Inches-RFD7090/dp/B00347A8EO/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1301578466&sr=8-7

https://www.amazon.com/Approx-Adhestive-Strips-Sticky-Fastener/dp/B01AI28QFU/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1492984017&sr=8-12&keywords=velcro

I used this to fix some stuff to my military backpack

Could use some Velcro strips: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0010HADEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_i9ECCb6PQFGB3

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Double-Sided-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000078CUB

It's $5 on Amazon

You're looking for grommets fam

https://www.amazon.com/Grommet-Eyelet-Setting-Pliers-Grommets/dp/B0047AKK0Y/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1488062427&sr=8-4&keywords=grommets

You could try some of that Iron on hemming material to close the hole up.

What kind of altering? If it's just hemming, maybe you could use this stuff to get by in the meantime? http://www.amazon.com/IKEA-IRON-ON-HEMMING-TAPE/dp/B005O9WU9Q

here you go https://www.amazon.com/KAMsnaps-Starter-Pack-Fastener-Clothing/dp/B01435LTUW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1482547523&sr=8-3&keywords=plastic+snaps

here ya go.

https://www.amazon.com/Lapel-Pin-Locking-Backs-Keepers/dp/B007IU94Z2

I use my laces with the little lace lock clamps. The elastics tend to get too tight for me

https://www.amazon.com/Plastic-Spring-Toggle-Stoppers-Multi-colour/dp/B01FH9DYU6/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?crid=Q6QMFAWYV1HY&keywords=lace+locks+for+shoes&qid=1556483771&s=gateway&sprefix=lace+lo&sr=8-6

I have those.

[I got these to keep them together] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0010HADEA/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

The post with the link

Dress form link

Here are a few things I just bought for our my board:

Scotch(R) All-Weather Fasteners, 2 Sets of 1 Inch x 3 Inches, Strips
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00347A8EO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Portable External Battery Charger Pack
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QRW8R8M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Goal Zero 14101 Luna USB LED Stick Light
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0045XRK06?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Fender Mini Electric Guitar Stand
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002DV7U2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

Have you tried marking with a wash-out fabric marker? I use the little Japanese markers to mark quilting lines, should work for hem lines too.

This is the piece you probably need less. Buy only this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0749JN5G7/

and some strips of double sided Velcro to make it thicker if needed.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Double-Sided-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000078CUB/

​

use the 18mm as front cover (and a cut of 6mm for the nose)

I wouldn't get these. Grab a continuous roll of double sided velcro instead. Cut it to the exact length you need and there's no excess to wrap up. Also more durable.

You might be able to find it cheaper in a store.

https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Double-Sided-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000078CUB

www.killerbeegi.com

Also, change out all of the flat drawstrings on your gi pants with this.

Stretchy rope


Threader


Drawstring cord

Edit: It looks like Killer Bee also has drawstrings cut to size here.

I use https://www.amazon.com/VELCRO-Brand-ONE-WRAP-Double-Sided-Multi-Purpose/dp/B000078CUB for cable management and something like https://www.amazon.com/PERFECT-VISION-MOUNTING-SATELLITE-CT7BLK-MH/dp/B00XUYJZBI depending on the location.

I used to zip tie all the things, but hated having to cut a bunch just to add or remove a cable.