(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best socket sets

As others have said don't mess with A/C. It's one for the professionals really.

I've recnetly started servicing/repairing my car (also a Civic - but an 04 plate). No experience. Just YouTube!

It hasn't taken much in tools. Some have just made life easier too (I bought a trolley jack for £50 for example - could have used the emergency one that came with the car). Axle stands are about £15. You can get cheaper but I wouldn't scrimp on safety. Mind you I made wheel chocks out of some fence posts I had and they work great.

So far I've done

• Oil and oil filter. Just needed a socket set (This is great, and does 95% of stuff. Even has spark plug sockets). I also bought a filter removal tool, catch pan, funnel and can to hold oil. These were about £20. But I could have done it with some old plastic containers at a push.
  
• Spark plugs. Easy. Just needed that socket set.
  
• Changed manual transmission oil. A bit trickier as I needed another set of axle stands (£15) and a £15 pump to get the oil up. Could have used a funnel and hose, but this way was easier. Needed a 3/8 breaker bar as it was too tight for the ratchet in the socket set. Could have used a 3/8 converter on a 1/2 breaker bar if I'd had one at the time.
  
• Cleaned out the throttle body. Needed some throttle cleaner spray and a toothbrush (>£10). Then just the socket set. A £4 set of picks and hooks (Rolson ones from Sainsbury's) helped with a hose, but weren't essential).
  
• Adjusted the throttle cable. Just needed a 10mm spanner (spanner sets start from about £8).
  
• Adjusted the handbrake. Just a screwdriver.
  
• Replaced the headunit, added component speakers, amp, subwoofer. Needed that socket set and some trim removal tools for about a tenner. Already had a multimeter and wiring kit (you can get these for £20-30). Also replaced door handle trim and pedal rubbers.
  
• Removed, wirebrushed, rust treated and sprayed the exhaust manifold heat sheild. These always rust out and are impossible to get in good nick. So I wanted to stop mine getting worse. Got some wire brush attachments for my drill, Kurust and high-heat spray paint (probably £25). The bottom nut was rounded to hell so I needed get some of these. Worked a treat.
  
• Removed wheels and wirebrushed, rust treated and sprayed wheel arches where there was surface rust. (probably £15 for spray and more Kurust. Rear wheels were on super tight so needed a 1/2 breaker bar and some sockets (£12).
  
  I'd happily change brake discs and pads if they needed doing. Air filter was new, but could have just popped one in when I did the throttle body. Pollen filters are easy too. Would be a bit more nervous about changing the brake fluid though.
  
  ​
  
  Main dealer service (just an inspection, oil and filter change and topping off washer liquid) is now £170 with a major service at a whopping £275 just for adding filters and brake fluid. You can get much cheaper at independents, but still save a packet doing it yourself.
  
  I've paid for all the tools in year one in labour costs. An oil filter and oil change next year would only cost me about £30.
  
  Just make sure you keep records of everything you've done.
  
  If you want to spend a bit more on Honda parts these guys have been good

Yes, I love those!

These swivel sockets are awesome also, and this brand is good quality and much cheaper than Snap-on. I own both, and there really is not much difference between them other than the price:

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-7412-4-Inch-Drive-Socket/dp/B0040Y62HC

https://store.snapon.com/Shallow-Universal-mm-chrome-6-pc-1-4-Drive-6-Point-Metric-Flank-Drive-Shallow-Universal-Socket-Set-P642267.aspx

This one is pretty nice, plus it has metric in case you need it. But you’d have to get a separate deep-well kit like this one .

[I have this set] (https://www.amazon.com/Neiko-10083A-Master-External-60-Piece/dp/B004XD0Z6O/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1496079670&sr=8-11&keywords=Torx+set) and am pretty happy with it.

KOKEN Wheel Nut Sockets Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003B3AUCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KTzNDb59VF3XS

This one? Looks super good.

I ordered this for my Christmas present to Myself last year, wish they sent me 3 of them, it's awesome

Thanks for the suggestions. Is there some minimum standard of spline drive sockets I should look at, or would something from Harbor Freight, or something like this be fine?

I also may see if I can rent/borrow a 1/2 impact wrench first...

Thanks im looking at one of these sets

• Williams MS-4-23RC | 1\2in. Drive Shallow Impact Socket Set 6-Pt, 23 Piece (USA Made) - $127 + $7ish shipping = $134
  
  
• SK Hand Tools 4037 25-Piece 1/2-Inch Drive 6 Point Standard Metric Impact Socket Set - $196

Yeah, I replaced a starter on an old Toyota. Wasn't easy- mainly because it was so cold and my fingers were numb so I couldn't feel where things lined up.

That said, with a few youtube vids it would be well within reasonable expectations for a complete novice to tackle. Since these 4 cylinder engines are very compact, engine components can be hard to reach. It might be wise to grab some socket extensions:

http://www.amazon.com/ARES-71270-10-Piece-Socket-Accessory-Set/dp/B077MTM3RJ/ref=sr_1_6?crid=29IQGJSX30FES&keywords=socket+extension+set&qid=1575060675&sprefix=socket+ext%2Caps%2C145&sr=8-6)

from Amazon. You'd still come out way ahead.

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This is great!

But just so everyone is aware, in case they don't want to print their own.

https://www.amazon.com/Teng-Tools-Piece-Drive-Socket/dp/B004OTMBB4

Grey Pneumatic is definitely a step up from Tekton. GP's laser etching and roll stamping is better than what Tekton offers.


StockWiseAuto usually has really good pricing and selection on GP stuff, but they don't show the 1224RD set to be in stock.


Its about the same price or cheaper (~$68) to get GP's separate 3/8" deep and shallow SAE impact sets. One gripe I have about GP is they have some kinda weird groupings and pricing for their impact sockets. And I don't know why their SAE sockets are 50% more expensive than the metric ones.

FYI: Mannesmann M98430 set. Add some good single parts like the 17mm hex you linked. And this will cover everything you ever need. It might not be facom quality, but it's a damn nice set. For using it a few times a year, it's more than enough.

These seem pretty short.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079V4TCL2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wIkrDbK0ED71R

You don't understand one of the basic designs a socket can feature, and yet I'm the one that shouldn't post here...Kind of comical, isn't it? As someone who uses their tools everyday and someone who uses impact sockets everyday unlike most of this sub, I'll happily help educate and I won't tell people (even ill informed ones like you) to not post here. Tho maybe I should, cutting out garbage posts would help actually educate the members here, unlike the typical bandwagon brand recommendations.

>Impact sockets that are necked down will always fail prematurely. The softer metal needs to be thicker, period.

Tell me, how wide is the drive end of a typical 1/2" drive impact socket?

According to Tekton, it's 0.9 inches wide, or roughly 23mm. Please, please reply and tell me you think a 12mm socket needs to be 23mm thick all the way up or it will fail prematurely. I'd certainly get a chuckle out of that. You neck down the smaller sizes so you can actually use them in tight or recessed spaces, while retaining a sidewall still thicker than a chrome socket. For example most companies are not necking down a 19mm socket, because the drive end is near 1 inch, or 25mm and the excess material is minimal. Last, If tekton was worried about failure, why would they themselves bother tapering the sockets? Surely there's less material now around the use end of the socket? Its lazy. Crude.

>I'll give you the fact they aren't stamped, but that is a non-issue for anyone who stores sockets appropriately

...The engraving wears off from use, not improper storage? Unless you're implying that once the sockets laser engraving is worn off that you won't ever have them out of their trays/holders its a non issue, then sure. Backs up the idea that you don't use tools. When you yell at your buddy to grab the beer and the 13mm socket that's laying under the hood with other black impact sockets sized 11, 12 and 14mm and it takes him 5 minutes to figure it out, you'll wished you had something stamped.

>Look at husky thin wall CRMO sockets for a prime example of premature wear for a ridiculous price.

Those sockets are designed to be thin. They even state that. A regular impact socket that's necked down is not designed to be thin, its just designed to be usable and not obnoxiously large.

>I'd love for you to find this magical set you are talking to that is somehow near the same price as Tekton, but I know you can't because I've done the research

What "research" have you done? I found these within 2 minutes just now.

https://www.tekton.com/1-2-inch-drive-deep-6-point-impact-socket-sets?quantity=1&metric-piece-count=15-pc&unit=metric

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-84955N-Impact-Metric-Socket/dp/B01CDJ5BAY/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=Gearwrench+impact+sockets&qid=1575146405&sr=8-9

Here's a set that's within 3 dollars. Pretty damn close, or are you going to complain about three dollars?

https://www.tekton.com/3-8-inch-drive-deep-6-point-impact-socket-sets?quantity=1&metric-piece-count=13-pc&unit=metric

https://www.tekton.com/3-8-inch-drive-6-point-impact-socket-sets?unit=metric&metric-piece-count=13-pc

https://www.amazon.com/Grey-Pneumatic-1226M-26-Piece-Length/dp/B003TSS4I0/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=GP+1226M&qid=1575146815&sr=8-1

Here's another set within 2 dollars. Same number of pieces too!

I was going to compare 1/4" impacts to GP/Genius/GW but Tekton doesn't make those. I was also going to compare sleeved wheel lug nut impact sockets to "insert brand here" but Tekton doesn't make those either, as well as a price comparison to swivel impacts but again...they don't make those! Harbor Freights Pittsburgh pro has a few skips, but their impact sockets are dirt cheap and excellent. Not sure why me saying Tekton impacts are crude offended you so much that you feel I shouldn't post here, but whatever. I'm just going to assume you own a bunch of Wera/Knipex and tekton tools and change your oil twice a year and you hate differing opinions. It's all good, hope I helped with your research.

You need this, or individual sockets for special applications.

www.amazon.com/dp/B07FVRQRCV/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_cFEMDbCFQA2PW

Here is a set.

And yeah, it's solid, so no point of weakness. And it's a much tighter fit that the end of the ratchet.

Would simply using something like these not be useful? But the american version if that is where you are?

Just use the timer to open the door, then use gravity to close it (if that is how the door works). Otherwise I'm not sure how you open and close it using the timer...

SAE Stubby spanner set
GRIP 89096 Stubby Combo Wrench... https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B008L5GU3W?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

3/8” universal sockets
Powerbuilt 642163 7Piece 3/8"... https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B00XCQAGKS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Gearwrench stubby screwdriver
GearWrench 890005GD Stubby... https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B000HBDXM4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I got a plug timer for mine.

If the electric heaters have plugs rather than being direct wired you could use plug in timers https://www.amazon.co.uk/Kingavon-BB-TS210-Plug-Timer-Socket/dp/B001JYG8NO/ref=sr_1_5/258-1210050-5720769?ie=UTF8&qid=1518527373&sr=8-5&keywords=plug+timers&dpID=51%252Be7HT3aCL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I am assuming this is a golf/jetta not a passat?

Don't pull the alternator. this is your friend along with a long magnet. You can use a standard 1/4" u-joint or swivel socket, but it will be deeper than it needs for the bold and make the angle difficult to turn smoothly.

The bolts are 10mm, but also have a 5mm allen head inside that you can use. I don't trust the allen to not strip at the angle you'll attack it at.

Loosen the bracket on the front of the intake that supports the hard plastic vacuum lines and solenoids. Be fucking careful, the hard vacuum lines crack.

I use a ~12" 1/4" extension and that 10mm swivel. Pull it off, put the new t-stat in, use the new o-ring to hold it up in place. Tear a scrap of paper and put it between the bolt and socket to put it back in. That will be enough to hold it in the socket if you're careful.

The breaker bar yes (here's a cheaper one and one I use)

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK729-Breaker-450mm-Drive/dp/B000RA00TY/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1458841478&sr=8-4&keywords=breaker+bar

What I mean with the hex bits are like sockets that go on the breaker bar but with a hex key on them- I have used these ones (even though they are cheap) and so far they haven't rounded off yet (even with brake rotors).

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-0593-Hex-Bit-Set/dp/B0012MEK0Q/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1458841399&sr=8-13&keywords=hex+bits

Hopefully the bolt doesn't cam out or otherwise it can become a PITA!