Reddit mentions: The best towing winch accessories

Normally trail riders want easy access to these tow points. Yes, they absolutely can be used, but standard OEM mounts are a hassle.

Generally if they aren't easy to see and get to on the trail without climbing under a rig, the average cable puller will not consider them tow points, and some trail leaders might not let you go on a trail without purpose installed after market hooks. Usually vehicles only have one front and rear tow point and you need two front and two rear for safety and convenience. Hooks are considered basic off road items.

However, all this depends on how you plan to use it off road. Are you wanting to trail it, or camp, light excursions?

They are cheap and easy to install and can be tucked under the bumper if you like. Just bolt them to the frame, don't weld them there. Welds will generally fail before bolts because lets face it, you will be "snatched" more than pulled if you are stuck and not high-centered.

Get at least one (or two) good tow rope(s) and attach it before you go out and just toss the free end in your window, or on your roof. This way when you get stuck, you can climb out and just toss the rope to the rig in front of you and your are out in a jiffy. This will really go a long way to good karma on a trail if you aren't asking others to come get you, or slowing down the others because you unhook after every pull. You will end up using your rope 4x more than a winch anyway unless you are alone on a trail.

Any wheeling will be horrible on gas milage, but if you want to be tidy and keep your rig looking clean, I have seen more than a few people use hitch-mounted winch mounts with handles and only have the winch there when wheeling. And you can toss it in the back and lock it up when your not using it as a daily driver.

Installing a tow hitch in the front and rear to move a winch from front to back as you need is not perfect, but it is very acceptable when done safely, so you get two-for-one winching. Make sure you take good measurements, or have one custom made, or even just go to your local 4x4 shop and get them to help you with the measurements. Never significantly cut/alter an OEM hitch for obvious reasons.

A secondary benefit to a tow hitch on both ends is you can use it as a tow point instead/in addition to tow points and move this around as needed also.

As far as a winch, you don't need a 18k monster, but enough to tug yourself out. General rules are 2-3x your vehicles weight. On a trail, most often if you are in a caravan, a good trail leader will put you sandwiched between two experienced trailers, so about 1/2 the time you will just pull rope to the rig in front and use it as your anchor. So weight shouldn't be a big issue.

Also get a snatch block and a tree saver so you can pull yourself out if you need to. This way you don't harm the tree, but still use it to get yourself out.

1. tires
   
2. tow points (however you want) and ropes
   
3. winch
   
4. lift?
   
   But first, tires.
   
   Ask anyone that has been on a trail, MT tires (not AT's) should be your first investment. You can get a really good MT that will last a very long time as daily use if you do not get an overly aggressive tread. And they look badass.

I discovered this stuff when I ordered a huge 3 ton hand winch, and it came supplied with this rope rather than steel cable. So much easier on the hands. I picked up lighter strength rope and swapped out the steel cable on my shop hoist as well. I'm going to swap out my cable for this on my Honda SxS as well. Good luck.

Here's a link to some pretty serious rope at Amazon. If this isn't the length or strength you want, just search at Amazon for "synthetic Winch Rope"

Synthetic Winch Rope 3/8" x 85' - 25000 Ibs Winch Line Cable Rope with Protective Sleeve for 4WD Off Road Vehicle ATV UTV SUV Motorcycle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H5CYGBK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_mXS6CbN8EHDPD

Edit: I know that much larger strength is available by the spool because work boats in the gulf use it a lot. You might have to do a google search to find a spool.

First item isn't recovery, but it is the number one item I always recommend. I've been in the position to need a fire extinguisher when one wasn't available. Vehicle was a total loss and it was a long walk out of the woods.

https://www.amazon.com/21006287MTL-Kidde-Automotive-Extinguisher-Disposable/dp/B077KGCD6Z/

For recovery gear, there are several nice kits that make a great start.

https://www.amazon.com/Rugged-Ridge-15104-28-000lb-Recovery/dp/B00426HZXS

Then I'd get a trail jack

https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-2722-Universal-Trail-Jack/dp/B001CF3JFA

Finally, yes, the kinetic ropes are GREAT. But I'd first have a winch as it is much more versatile. Rope:

https://www.amazon.com/Bubba-Rope-176680RDG-Breaking-Strength/dp/B007HYR85W

Anderson style disconnects


The cap on those is a nice little extra touch.


You can find more sizes and types at https://powerwerx.com/anderson-power-powerpole-sb-connectors


EDIT: Ideally, it’d be better all-around to mount the amps in the vehicle rather than on the box.

If that’s not really feasible for ya, mounting the amps along the edges/corners of the box or on top of some internal bracing/walls where rigidity is greater is recommended.


Have fun with the family :)

Great job mate, a superb ship too. Don't often see a model of her. Nice going on the camo, top model for a first!

If you fancy having a crack at rigging, have a look at /u/speedbird100 's post history, he uses modelkasten rigging wire, which is a monofilament and doesn't drop like a cotton would which makes life a little easier by all accounts, although isn't cheap!

I bring the coils out to banana jacks then use Sewell banana plugs and don't see any issues. I used a thermal camera to watch the plugs after I put them in and they didn't get warm at all, so minimal IR drop across the plugs. I did use a screwdriver to bend the 'legs' out on the plug a little so that it was a very tight fit.


You can go big baller style with SMD magnetic terminals

As far as the interface to the sub itself, mine has terminals with allen keys and I soldered the other end to the tab on the terminals(removing the tab from the terminal first so I didn't melt the plastic cups).

Where exactly are you thinking about using ring connectors?

In a previous install I just used threaded rod through the box with fender washers and ring terminals. Solder is best, a high compression union second best. Banana jacks are ok for not too much power.

A ring terminal is fine if you crimp it good, put some anti oxidant on the unions and wrench down on it.

You can also use quick disconnects like this

BlueSea ML-ACRs are very popular for this kind of setup. I have this one myself.

Installing it is fairly easy, too. A thick-guage (I used 2AWG) wire from your battery goes to one of the terminals (with a circuit breaker inline), and an identical cable from the other terminal goes to your other battery in the trailer, with another circuit breaker on that end. Somewhere in the middle you'd use a quick-disconnect connector so you can connect/disconnect this at the front end of your trailer.

The red button allows you to choose the mode of operation: AUTO lets the device itself determine when the batteries are connected, and when they're not. Forced-on allows you to forcefully connect the two batteries, which is useful when you need a jump start, as you essentially jump start yourself via your second battery. Forced-off allows you to disconnect the batteries, which is useful if you want your main battery to receive 100% of the "charge" from the alternator (useful if you just jumped-started yourself, or you're about to disconnect your trailer).

Hooking up the button's wiring is very simple, too. The manufacturer's product page has detailed instructions and wiring diagrams.

amazon, cheap but great. i towed a friend out of some mud and they held up. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XPCFVKS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

That is still using the tow bar/tow hitch. You never use the tow ball.

Also, the hitch pin can be used, but a hitch insert with a clevis point is far safer and you don't risk bending your pin. The pin is not made to handle a soft strap, but rather using the hitch insert to distribute the weight to the areas closest to the support of the tow bar. A soft strap will concentrate the force in the center of the pin, farthest from the points of support.

OP delivers!

We had originally considered purchasing a vehicle lift, but they were much more expensive, required a lot of headroom (the garage ceiling is only about 8'4" high), and would have required us to change the garage door tracks and opener to let it clear. This was a much simpler (and cooler) solution.

Many parts were purchase from Amazon, so I provided links so you can take a look.

Parts:

• Winch
  
  
• Pulley
  
  
• Carabiners
  
  
• Snatch blocks
  
  
• Rope hoist
  
  
• Hydraulic Vehicle Moving Dollies
  
  
• 3/16 (840LB capacity) steel cable
  
  
• Cable clamps
  
  
• Cable 'eyes' (keeps the cable in a nice curve when going around the carabiners)
  
  
• Lag bolts
  
  ==================
  Details:
  
  I had access to the studs and rafters as we removed the drywall to remodel the garage, so I was able to use 2x4s and 2x12s to strengthen the areas where the eye hooks were secured.
  
  I built these pivoting support blocks to keep the axle from taking any of the load. I put carpet on the blocks to keep them from scraping the new garage floor.
  
  I use these dollies to position the trailer to be hooked up to the pivot blocks.
  
  I use the rope hoist to make the raising and lowering of the trailer a one person operation. You need to pull the trailer away from the wall to get it to start lowering and also need to steady it on its way up so it doesn't fall into position too quickly.
  

There's a local junkyard/parts place near where I live. I got it for free because I know the guy who owns the place, but I'd just look at your local junkyard for a wrecked Outback! :)

Here's the tow ring! I had to do a tiny amount of cutting to get it to fit just right, but that wasn't too bad.

ARB makes a nice kit with multiple straps, but it’s pricy. ARB RK9US Premium Recovery Kit ARB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P9C5ZA/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdo_t1_qOSUBbWK4DMMP


I’d recommend one of these: Ranger Rope 3/4" x 20' Commercial Reliability Kinetic Recovery Tow Rope by Ultranger (Breaking Strength 9 Tons 20,000 LBs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y26MBRD/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HMSUBbARJ4XYF

Not OP but it looks like a D ring. it also looks like he cut the top off and drilled the key to fit the D ring.

https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-13047B-Black-D-Ring/dp/B001CF1A6U (not the correct size)

Yeah, I see your point but if you double the 550 cord you're at over 1100lbs, triple 1650lbs.

>Well not having to cut rope

Oh my, you have to cut things? Heaven forbid.

Since OP is looking for 'less is more' - One spool of 100' paracord is better than any other option because with your suggestion you have 2-3 different types of rope and taking up more space.

10$ isn't that much. Your cost comment makes no sense especially because you recommend Dyneema Cord 33$. There's no way OP is going to need 7000lbs of strength.

The 550 cord will work for all of his needs.

Love how your van is desert camo!

And you’re inspiring me to buy these

Ah that makes sense, thanks for the info it reassures me that I'm on the right track, now just need to find something to use for a battery box on the tongue that can fit my larger 120Ah battery and the charger to get it out of the weather, bonus points for a weather proof voltage monitor to have it visible without opening. Also need some weatherproof connectors but I just can't seem to find the right Anderson connectors that my Renogy panel uses on Amazon.

Edit: found the connectors, these will come in handy as I plan to swap the battery used by the fridge when at basecamp for the time being until I can work out what to do with my larger house battery that is currently in an ArkPak - Battery Quick Connect/Disconnect Wire Harness Plug Connector Recovery Winch Trailer 6-10 GAUGE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KHQQY7E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Dqqzzb19HK9FV

meaning cut the positive line coming out the battery (before it goes into the disconnect switch) and put in a quick disconnect ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018G70X0U ). The reason I can't do the same on the other side is the two wires are separate (where as they are "spliced" at the disconnect switch on the positive side)

Whatever quick-disconnect they use, just make sure the disconnected ends are encased in plastic. Some quick disconnect still leave the metal tips exposed. You don't need a hot speaker lead from the amp shorting to chassis in the trunk. You need to use Anderson style or maybe something a little smaller like these.

They are Maxtrax recovery mats to put under the wheels when stuck in sand/mud/snow, etc. Another great recovery option.

Oem screw in attachment and the d ring is from Amazon. Smittybilt 13047B 3/4" Black D-Ring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CF1A6U/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_aOpavb0YDMM77
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CF1A6U/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_aOpavb0YDMM77

Not sure what traction boards she went with but if they don't look like these then they are probably going to be garbage.

https://www.amazon.com/Maxtrax-MTX02SO-MKIIs/dp/B00HYCVSW6/

I would suggest using a hi-lift jack as a winch. Below is everything you would need.

https://www.amazon.com/Hi-Lift-Jack-HL484-Black-Steel/dp/B00042KG3A/

2x https://www.amazon.com/Strap-Reinforced-Loops-Pound-Capacity/dp/B00N4IDPZM/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=tow+strap&qid=1556900367&s=automotive&sr=1-7

https://www.amazon.com/Astra-Depots-Synthetic-Shackles-000lbs/dp/B07H326WN4/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=soft+shackle&qid=1556900415&s=automotive&sr=1-9

DO NOT USE ANYTHING WITH METAL HOOKS. If something breaks those hooks take off like bullets and will kill or hurt you or someone else. Properly rated chains are fine (but I prefer not to use them)

Here is how you would use the hi-lift as a winch

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gaZcdrc3KTc

Just make sure you respect the hi-lift and keep your fingers/head clear as I've seen quite a few people get knocked out when they let go of the handle and it swings up on them.

Some quick connect/disconnect would take care of that problem.

Maxtrax MKII
recovery board/track

Edit: almost identical to * except for the teeth at the ends

Edit 2: ACTIONTRAX Traction Board

I use this paired with this strap

Maxtrax

Also D-Rings and a tow strap or snatch strap for somebody to pull you out.D-Ring Snatch Strap

Or ya know..

http://www.amazon.com/62041-Steel-Receiver-Shackle-Bracket/dp/B000CQBMAY