Reddit mentions: The best towing products & winches

First off as a reminder for everybody: if you guys could make suggestion posts self-posts, that would be great! I'll leave this here since you've already got some comments already and are off road in the picture. :)

Now...

Here is my wagon currently.

There's a pretty good amount of stuff you can do for your wagon. :)

Starting with protection, Primitive makes excellent quality plates that will keep your car safe from rocks and branches from stabbing into your under-body driving or if you bottom out. I highly recommend Primitive. They're excellent to work with.

Let's talk about lifts, now! :) There's multiple ways to lift an Outback. Subtle Solutions and Gorilla Off-Road Company both make 1" Spacers that allow you to lift without much (if any) correction to the suspension.

After lifting, getting an alignment is definitely recommended. Also note that 2" is pretty much the max for lifting our cars unless you're wanting to getting into dropping the subframe. SJR makes a lift that goes 4" and 6", but they increase in price significantly from the 2" model.

If you're looking for a lift that has some more on the road benefits, King Springs are another viable option as they have ~20% stiffer progressive spring rate that keeps the car stiffer on corners and keeps you from bouncing around off-road. They're usually put on new shocks and the most commonly used ones are KYB GR2s. There's a little discrepancy on how much they lift, but it's usually 1"-1.5". The King Spring + KYB GR2 combo will run you ~$900, which is a little pricey, but worth it if you're looking for an improved ride.

One last route to go (which I think I'm going to do these and regular height King Springs) is an SJR lift which uses metal lifting blocks found here. They provide a 2" lift and are angled to keep stock strut geometry which is definitely nice.

Lights are a place you can mix it up a bit. Hella 500s are tried and true and have a more "rally" look to them, but I recently bought this front LED light bar and absolutely love it. It's light output is ridiculous and it's great for the price. So far, no complaints. Just remember for bulb lights, circle lights generally put out more. :) Her's my top LED light bar as well if you're interested.

I got this roof rack and am very happy with it. It's solid and great for the money. They make an extension piece as well and a cargo net

Rally Armor Mud Flaps are useful for keeping the mud on your car down and also defecting rocks from your paint. :)

And last but not least, tires! I highly recommend General Grabber AT2s. You can go about one more tire size bigger than stock and still not rub. :) Tires are one of the best upgrades you can get for going off-road. :)

I hope this helps! :)

I bought a used volt right after my graduation this spring. 2013 with ~41k miles. Traded up from an 04 Jeep Wrangler and haven't had any regrets at all.

To address your concerns about space:
The volt fit way more stuff in it than I was expecting, especially if you are able to fold the rear seats down. I was able to fit a foldable 8ft table, a mini fridge, two large bags of clothes, microwave, TV and a few boxes of kitchen stuff and other knick knacks if that kinda gives you an idea of how much camping equipment you could pack.
I also installed a hitch (Curt Manufacturing CURT 11221... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072UHJ8W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) for exclusive use with a bike rack. Did the install with my dad and with the right tools it wasn't bad at all.

As for my considerations buying used:
The general consensus I found online (largely from this sub, thanks y'all) was that Volts are well built and reliable, especially regarding the battery so I wasn't too concerned about range degradation and just and went with one I found within my budget and general location (was not a very wide selection). I maybe could have shopped around a little more, had one shipped to a dealer near me, etc. but I found one that fit most of what I was looking for and didn't really have time to be picky. One thing I do wish I would have payed more attention to was tire wear as I'm likely going to have to replace mine soon but live and learn I guess.
Having a 2013+ is nice because you get a slightly bigger battery over previous models I believe. You also get hold mode which is nice for road trips but by no means a necessity. Mine also has heated seats which I hear are great in the winter because they're much more efficient on the battery than blowing hot air. Haven't had had to test this yet and won't be a big issue for me in south Texas anyway but I think it would be worth considering for colder climates.
I don't have a backup camera. This was concerning to me at first. The volt is really pretty awful as far as rear visibility is concerned, at least compared to my jeep. After a about a month though it started feeling normal and isn't a big concern for me anymore. I thought about installing one aftermarket but getting it integrated into the original infotainment system was more complex/expensive than I deemed worth and I didn't want to mess with adding other screens or projecting to my phone or anything like that.

When it came to picking a volt in general. After factoring in the value of my Jeep + cost savings from way better fuel economy + the savings of using electricity vs gas I realized the volt would pay for itself in less than 5 years + I get nice things my jeep didn't have like Bluetooth audio, remote doors, and maybe most importantly for me reliable AC so it just made sense for me.
As a previous commenter alluded to, everyone's finances are different so it's totally up to you to decide if a volt is worth it for you.
I'm three months in and so far loving my decision. A PHEV is a perfect fit for me. I make regular trips ~400 miles to see family and friends so full electric wasn't viable. But during a typical week I get to drive on all electric all the time for ~ ½ the price of gas. As far as I could tell the Volt is the best PHEV at its price point for a used ~ 5 year old model.

Sorry for being a little long winded but I hope this helps your decision. And congrats on your upcoming graduation!

So the hitch that I found sits comfortably behind the number and actually affects the exit angle very little if at all. I'll also be getting a 1 1/4 to 2 inch adapter that is technically only meant for class II hitches, but for only holding a spare tire, it will be fine. It's also fine for holding a bike rack or something. I'll edit this comment when I'm at my computer and show you what I'm getting

EDIT:

1. This is the hitch that I will be using. If you look at the pictures, it seems very discrete without much taken away from exit angle.
   
   
2. This is the best one that I can find for your car. There aren't any pictures form reviews, but it sounds like in the comments that it is also discrete, although there's no guarantee. If that one doesn't work, something custom is probably your only option.
   
   
3. This is the adapter that you can use. Just remember that as a general rule of thumb, your towing capacity is cut in half if you use one of these, just as a safety precaution. Towing with an adapter also depends on how strong the pin is that you're using to hold it into the base hitch.
   
   
4. This is the tire holder that I am probably going to get. It seems a little short, but I measured on my car and it should be alright. If it is way too short, you can get a hitch riser like this
   
   
5. THIS is the tire carrier that I want, because it is very very strong and the cheaper one folds to the side, which is really nice. I don't know if I'll be able to afford it, though, so I'll see
   If all this metal that's bolted to your car is rattling around way too much because of the couple millimeters of play in the hitches, pick yourself up a couple of these and it's problem solved.
   
   Hope this helps! If you want to know anything else, let me know
   
   
   Edit 2: formatting

If its a Wrangler and you have decent tires - ie Semi Aggressive All Terrains or Light Truck Tires and 31+ inches, I wouldn't even bother unless you really feel a lot of resistance. Pure road tires, definitely air down. On my LJ I have, it's stock with 31" Semi Aggressive AT tires and I almost never aired down in the 13 years I owned it. It's seen I don't know how many beach miles up and down the east coast. There was noticeable difference when I did air down though (less throttle needed, ran cooler), but it still did fine. If you do air down, about 15-18 PSI is where you want it, much lower and you risk the tire falling off the rim.

With the new Jeep in the pic, I didn't air down at all, the 35" tires treated the beach like it wasn't there. They were at 40 PSI and I will likely never air them down for the beach again. I probably could have gotten out there in 2WD on it's current setup.

Beach driving has a lot more to do with momentum management than most other factors. Airing down just helps that little bit more. If you are in loose sand, don't stop, keep it moving at a steady pace or even give it more speed before you hit the loose sand. That's the biggest factor when I watch people get stuck. They panic and slow down instead of keeping the vehicle moving. There is a really soft and torn up section where it's a turn to get to the ocean front and it's where everyone gets stuck cause they take it too slow and stop the car in the horribly loose sand, I pull people out of there all the time.

Some other Tips

• Bring a Shovel - useful for digging out - mostly to help non jeep owners get out ;) - I use a surplus army one but something like this - https://www.amazon.com/SOG-Entrenching-Tool-F08-N-Folding/dp/B0038A05X6/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1494981775&sr=1-1&keywords=folding+shovel
  
• one or two 2x6 boards 2-3 feet long - useful to put in front of tires to provide traction and lift the Jeep if you bog in the sand - also if you need to jack the Jeep for any reason it provides a platform. - Acquired at any Hardware store
  
• If you start to get stuck and are throwing sand/digging yourself in - STOP - Get out and assess your predicament. It's a lot easier to stick the boards in front of the tires when you aren't in sand up to your chassis. The deeper you go, the more sand YOU have to move out of the way.
  
• No winch would be needed, a tow strap is fine - I have spent summers with my tow strap pulling people out of the sand with the stock tow hooks on the front and back - https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Heavy-Duty-Tow-Strap/dp/B000I60HV8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1494981378&sr=8-5&keywords=tow+strap - $22 and great piece of mind - I don't use any metal hooks or d rings, it works fine without them for the beach
  
• If it's somewhat popular beach and you do get stuck, most any other Jeep owner would help you out. I do it all summer long for anyone I see stuck. It's actually a lot of fun to help recover vehicles and to see the look on peoples faces when they are relieved about what they are going to do. Don't be embarrassed about it, own it and learn from it, gotta get better somehow.
  
• Wash the undercarriage when you are done. The salt and sand will quickly rot you out.
  
  Trust me, it's not too difficult. Keep your momentum, if you do start to get stuck, don't make it worse, get out and use your tools to get you out or ask for help.
  
  Good luck! If you have other questions, id be glad to answer, PM me :) I expect to see pics!
  

Normally trail riders want easy access to these tow points. Yes, they absolutely can be used, but standard OEM mounts are a hassle.

Generally if they aren't easy to see and get to on the trail without climbing under a rig, the average cable puller will not consider them tow points, and some trail leaders might not let you go on a trail without purpose installed after market hooks. Usually vehicles only have one front and rear tow point and you need two front and two rear for safety and convenience. Hooks are considered basic off road items.

However, all this depends on how you plan to use it off road. Are you wanting to trail it, or camp, light excursions?

They are cheap and easy to install and can be tucked under the bumper if you like. Just bolt them to the frame, don't weld them there. Welds will generally fail before bolts because lets face it, you will be "snatched" more than pulled if you are stuck and not high-centered.

Get at least one (or two) good tow rope(s) and attach it before you go out and just toss the free end in your window, or on your roof. This way when you get stuck, you can climb out and just toss the rope to the rig in front of you and your are out in a jiffy. This will really go a long way to good karma on a trail if you aren't asking others to come get you, or slowing down the others because you unhook after every pull. You will end up using your rope 4x more than a winch anyway unless you are alone on a trail.

Any wheeling will be horrible on gas milage, but if you want to be tidy and keep your rig looking clean, I have seen more than a few people use hitch-mounted winch mounts with handles and only have the winch there when wheeling. And you can toss it in the back and lock it up when your not using it as a daily driver.

Installing a tow hitch in the front and rear to move a winch from front to back as you need is not perfect, but it is very acceptable when done safely, so you get two-for-one winching. Make sure you take good measurements, or have one custom made, or even just go to your local 4x4 shop and get them to help you with the measurements. Never significantly cut/alter an OEM hitch for obvious reasons.

A secondary benefit to a tow hitch on both ends is you can use it as a tow point instead/in addition to tow points and move this around as needed also.

As far as a winch, you don't need a 18k monster, but enough to tug yourself out. General rules are 2-3x your vehicles weight. On a trail, most often if you are in a caravan, a good trail leader will put you sandwiched between two experienced trailers, so about 1/2 the time you will just pull rope to the rig in front and use it as your anchor. So weight shouldn't be a big issue.

Also get a snatch block and a tree saver so you can pull yourself out if you need to. This way you don't harm the tree, but still use it to get yourself out.

1. tires
   
2. tow points (however you want) and ropes
   
3. winch
   
4. lift?
   
   But first, tires.
   
   Ask anyone that has been on a trail, MT tires (not AT's) should be your first investment. You can get a really good MT that will last a very long time as daily use if you do not get an overly aggressive tread. And they look badass.

I do 10 gallon batches BIAB with a 20 gallon kettle. With my trub loss to hot break, grain absorbtion, and boil off it is just big enough to fit my water (typically 17.25 gallons) for a 10 gallon batch at around 1.055 (OG) and the 24 lbs. of grain at mash. I could likely go a bit higher with my OG, but otherwise I would have to stick to single batches for anything over about 1.065 or so.

I made my false bottom from a stainless grill grate and some stainless carriage bolts from Home Depot. This keeps my bag off the heating element during the mash.

https://imgur.com/Y0wpP0r

https://imgur.com/wWmnW8N

My electric system is in my basement, so I have a hood installed to the underside of the 1st floor joists for venting moisture. I use a 4500 Watt boilcoil hooked up to a Worthog controller from High Gravity Brew.

My bag is from The Brew Bag and it has held up great. I hang it from a pulley supported from an eyebolt lagged into one of the above floor joists. I wall mounted a winch onto the foundation wall to lift the bag, way overkill I know, but it was the best I could find for cheap.

I've only recently moved to all electric, but this system has worked great so far. In order to bring the ~15 gallons to a solid boil I did have to insulate my kettle with some reflectix even with a 4500 Watt element ,but once I did that it rolls just fine.

https://imgur.com/hrJeGuG

I'm going to assume this will be a generic mall crawler and not leave the pavement very often. If you plan to take it wheeling, reply back and I will add a few more suggestions.

Things to think about

1. The hardtop takes up a lot of room. Either plan on putting in some sort of hoist to store it up high or giving up a lot of garage space.
   
   
2. Until you have the previously mentioned hoist in place, the hardtop is a pain in the ass to put on and take off without help. Not because its heavy, but because its awkward. It also means that you can't just drop the top if the day is nicer than expected. On my old jeep, I eventually sold the hardtop and went soft top only. On my new Jeep, I skipped the hard top entirely.
   
   If you plan on storing instruments in the vehicle and need the secure storage, great. If not, then the soft top is the way to go in my opinion.
   
   
3. For long haul trips, the back seats suck. The angle of the backrest on the rear seats is a bit steep and becomes uncomfortable after awhile. Also, there is no support under the center of the back seat. If the person in the middle is heavy, the seat could sag and become even more uncomfortable. There are a few aftermarket products to address both seat sagging and the recline issue but I've never tested them.
   
   
   Options to consider:
   
   
4. 3.73 gears will cost you ~$600 or so. If you ever plan on putting on bigger tires or towing, you want the 3.73 gears. The 3.21 gears will give you an extra mile or so per gallon but at the expense of quite a bit of power.
   
   
5. Don't buy either of the tow packages. The basic tow package costs around $350 and is just a hitch and wiring harness. You can buy the same receiver hitch on its own for $75. The wiring harness just clips in and its a quick and easy 4 bolt install.
   
   The Max tow package is almost as bad a deal. That's $900 and gives you the $3.73 gears ($600 above) and the hitch in one package. Still better to buy the gears on their own and use your own hitch.
   
   
   
6. Spiderweb Shade This is a must have if you plan on going topless very often. The best part is that once its installed, you never have to remove it. It fits right under the factory tops.
   
   
7. Unless you plan on putting in an aftermarket sound system, spend the money for the alpine upgrade. Without it you can't hear the music over the sound of the wind if you have the top down.
   
   
8. Hood latches - There are several options, both with and without keys. If you live in a zero crime area, great...but for the rest of us, a set of keyed hood latches will help keep your battery from getting stolen. Also, the hood flutters at high speed with the stock latches. That makes me nervous.
   
   
9. Door hinge locks are also a good idea. Jeep doors are easy to take off, expensive to replace, and are stolen more often than you would think. While not foolproof, they are better than nothing...especially if you don't keep the key to them in the jeep itself.
   
   
   
   

Also, the 2 door has several advantages, like a very tight turning circle - helpful on anything from trails to mall parking lots.

I assume the Sport S comes with the 32" tires? That and the 3.73 ratio and pretty much the only things I'd consider essential. (Well, AC too, if you're not going topless all the time, but maybe I'm just a wimp.) But I don't think you can get locking rear diffs on it from the factory...I thought they only came with lockers on Rubicons, and there was just the option for limited slip? Personally, I didn't bother with limited slip. The BLD system is pretty good, so I don't know if I'll ever put lockers in.

I'd suggest going to a dealership and taking a look. The rear seat folds up in a weird way. There's probably enough room, but I'd want to check to see if there's enough room for your gear.

For other stuff that's less sensitive to the elements, you can bolt on a hitch pretty easily and get a cargo carrier. That's the one I've got...notably, the lip is low enough for rear door to open without taking off the cargo carrier.

Beautiful work, OP. It seriously looks like a real product.

For hams with a 2" hitch receiver, this works WONDERS as a base. Works great with the SOTA Beams telescoping pole, and I'm pretty sure the Jackite pole would fit as well (2.3" ID).

This is the tow hitch I used:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TNNFMC/

And this is the cargo carrier that attaches:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E2AJ6O/

The carrier is rated for 300 lbs, but the tC's tongue weight is only rated for 200 lbs, so I try to keep it well under that (the dry weight of one of my mopeds is around 100 lbs). I use some ratcheting straps and it works like a charm.

I could probably also tow a small utility trailer for a motorcycle or kayaks or canoe or something like that, but I've never tried it. I think you could probably tow about 1000 lbs fairly easily though. The tC is geared low and has 160 hp so I'm sure it would be fine for light duty.

In my opinion, $800 for a roof rack isn't a great investment for a college student; at least for me it wasn't. I'd just check craigslist/ebay regularly for a nice used one. I agree those things are way too expensive. I wanted one for my bike when I had my Focus, but ended up installing a hitch for about $100 from Amazon and a nice used Yakima hitch bike rack. They make some decent cargo racks that can be used on a hitch as well. I'd say if you're handy with a wrench and you have the time, pick up a nice Curt hitch and a decent cargo rack for a fraction of the cost. Just keep in mind there are 2 standard size hitches and the Focus hitch is the smaller size.

I got a drawtite hitch from etrailer and highly recommend(https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Hitch/Mazda/CX-5/2018/76138.html).

I actually bought a curt hitch and didn't like how you had to basically leave a plug zip-tied somewhere(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S18BY2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Also don't recommend buying a hitch from Amazon because of shady packaging. The packaging was exposing the hitch. I had to use my etrailer packaging to return the hitch because UPS wouldn't accept the packaging that Amazon shipped it in.

I'm a pretty dedicated biker, so having something easy to put the bike in and out was well worth the investment for me.
https://www.amazon.com/Kuat-Racks-Bike-Rack-Metallic/dp/B01G7PTMQ4/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537223600&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=kuat+bike+rack&psc=1&smid=AY1YC2BWA3QO7
Highly recommended the Kuat racks.

I have a Mazda 3 as well! it is a different generation than yours though. i just remembered the key to what makes my system work. I have a hitch on the back for a bike rack. so I would also use a canoe loader bar like this one. It worked for me because i already had the canoe loader bar thing from using it with a previous truck, and the hitch was there for the bike rack. so that wasn't an up front cost to me. but really, i suggest it. the hitch is useful to have and easy to install yourself. and this bar is cheap. Look at the pictures of cars using it on the amazon link.

Well...here's all the stuff I bought on my Amazon list lately. Does that help?

AUKEY 1080p Dash Cam
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B072FGL63X/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Black Off Road Scene Easy Fit Mud Guard
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002NIJS0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Car Travel Inflatable Mattress
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N7MZ3YO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Xprite Amber 240 LED Roof Top Mini Flashing Strobe Light
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091XUAY8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Smoke Tint Slim Wind Deflector
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00335FH4S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pet Dog Seat Belt Leash
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0719R1YNZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

30 Ft. Polyester Tow Strap
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L5RMPT6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hood tie-Down Loops
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CRBXQUK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Seat Cover for Pets
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QHC02EY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Silicone Wedding Ring For Men (For the radio knobs)
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD31K4P/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Toyota Tacoma Center Console Tray
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KI3WG1O/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Toyota Tacoma Center Console Organizer
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B016ZB4VZC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Front Car Seat Covers
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FBLOR88/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Husky Liners Front Floor Liners
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019YS22MM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Annnnnnnnnnd I'm just now seeing you were talking about the 2nd Gen...

Get one that goes into your hitch. It'll be centered and easily removed.
https://discountflagoutlet.com/index.php/tow-hitch-mount-flagpole-holder.html If you don't want to buy one, you could probably make one pretty easily using an old ball mount.

Here's another one I just found:
http://www.amazon.com/Camco-51611-Hitch-Flagpole-Holder/dp/B004IVGA0G
I like stuff that'll fit into a hitch because its not a permanent modification. I'm not drilling holes in my vehicle. If I don't like the look of something I can simply remove it from the hitch and sell it.

Trailer harness plugs
You can find two pin plugs as well. I used one for a simple fan in an old computer.
Best yet is they are made to seal well, and rated for several amps at 12 volts.


http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-47965-2-Pole-Flat-Extension/dp/B0002Q80RW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453147049&sr=8-1&keywords=2+pin+trailer+extension

http://www.amazon.com/ABN-Trailer-Wiring-Harness-Extension/dp/B00YNF8SSE/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1453146756&sr=8-5&keywords=Trailer+Plug+Wiring

Not OP but it looks like a D ring. it also looks like he cut the top off and drilled the key to fit the D ring.

https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-13047B-Black-D-Ring/dp/B001CF1A6U (not the correct size)

+1 for ditch the running boards. The trailer hitch as well unless you plan to use it or need a strapping point. If so then one of these https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-29312B-Receiver-Shackle-Receivers/dp/B001CF1A7O and an actual recovery strap which is different than a tow strap. The best thing you can ever get for 4x4ing is a FRIEND to go with vs alone.

Oh cool! I'm interested to know if the 50 VIP also has the unused green and black wire connector in the handlebars that I use for accessories on my 150. If so, it has an impossible-for-me-to-find molex connector so I snipped it off and cut one of these in half and crimped it on as a replacement.

Your scooter might actually be able to run on those batteries ;-)

Does your vehicle have a reese hitch? I use a rotating t post reese canoe loader to load a 16' OT Penobscot canoe on my Honda Element. It's super slick and easy. You just pick up one end of the upside down boat and put it on the t post. Bungee it in place and then walk to the back of the boat and pick it up while swiveling the whole thing around the vehicle to secure the front end to the front tow hooks under the front bumper. Add a belly band and some rear tie downs, (wlready attached to the boat and go.

Other than just taking some energy out, it will also change the direction of the hook/"whatever is still attached to strap" towards not straight at you or the other driver-it has killed people.

For pulling someone out, always use a recovery strap, or this can happen:

http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/fire/reports/face200622.html

http://www.4x4training.com/Articles/DeadlyMistakes/DontLoseYourHead.html

NEVER USE THIS KIND OF STRAP: http://www.amazon.com/Neiko-Heavy-Duty-Strap-Hook/dp/B000IAIP72/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1396559247&sr=1-1

If it slides off or breaks, it will go through the back windshield, your head, and the front windshield, like they weren't even there.

Buy a recovery strap and hook it into your hitch like this: http://image.fourwheeler.com/f/46283968+w600+re0/129-1307-01%2Blow-buck-liberation-getting-unstuck%2Btow-strap-in-hitch-pin

Use a properly rated D-ring/Shackle that is specifically rated for loads, and more importantly--IS RATED FOR A HIGHER LOAD THAN YOUR STRAP. You never, ever want to have the shackle be the point of failure, or it turns into a missile.

It is better to walk home after getting stuck than to get carried to the morgue. Remember-Stay safe, stay alive.

Hindsight is 20/20 but if anyone else is reading this, I purchased one of these for peace of mind.

REESE Towpower 72783 Universal Coupler Lock, Adjustable Storage Security, Heavy-Duty Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0008FUH46/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MhxBCbZNVCRKZ

As in shoving something in the gap around the square tubing? No. The ball mount did bounce around on my old 1 1/4" hitch, but I didn't feel/hear anything with this one (though with the trailer off, I can jiggle it around some). Maybe after a few trips it'll start wearing away, but I probably wouldn't do anything about it.

Looks like you can use something like this, but I like the ability to quickly connect/disconnect.

https://www.amazon.com/StowAway-Tightener-Anti-Rattle-Stabilizer-Hitches/dp/B0001CMUV4

Here you go https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IVGA0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AHUhAb22Y48TF

I used this flag https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FA6BLC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PIUhAbFC0RBT8


For the actual pole I bought a 4-5 foot fencing pole from Lowe's drilled some holes into it and bolted on some mounting clips for the flag then I spray painted the whole thing black... Oh and at the bottom there's a bolt that they give you to "secure the pole" but it's flimsy so I just went to Lowe's and bought a black hex key bolt and used that to actually secure it. Last thing I needed is the flag flying into the ocean lol

This kind of thing already exists, and in my opinion is being done better. The “hitch vault” logo is a giveaway. For the model I’m comparing to, the at least have a cover to help conceal the fact that it’s a safe.

HitchSafe HS7000 Key Vault https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I66JEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GecdBb3HAHEZH

I do a lot of surfing and canyoneering; both of which require me to stash my key due to water. I can't lock the key in the car because it won't lock. I've been clipping it to a carabiner on the rear passenger side behind the wheel, but this has downsides (someone seeing me, and I'm always afraid it's still close enough to detect presense and unlock). After burning my hand on the exhaust pipe by not being careful, I decided to find something new.

I found this, but the reviews weren't convincing me of its quality, the drawer looked small, I wasn't sure it would fit the 3rd gen, and it was more than I wanted to spend. I ended up welding this box and pairing it with a combination lock receiver lock. I hope this gives other people ideas if they're in a similar predicament.

We decided just to go for jet skis. If I cant lift myself back up on the jetski if I fall off can I just use this and where could i safely attach to my buddies jetski so he could tow me and the jetski to the shore so I can hop back on? any advice greatly appreciated. don't want to be stranded out in the water... or attach a tow rope to somewhere it might break or snap something off..

https://www.amazon.com/Polyester-Strap-Hooks-Towing-Recovery/dp/B00L5RMPT6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1496949517&sr=8-3&keywords=tow+rope

That's what I thought and everyone else said, but this one works perfectly.

https://www.amazon.com/Reese-Towpower-72783-Universal-Coupler/dp/B0008FUH46

I have one of these in every vehicle I own This is the best price you will find anywhere, these straps stretch (intentionally) and the stretch actually helps you get unstuck. If you break one, nobody gets hurt.

Edit:here is a good example of a chain snap video

Get a hitch tightener. It will alleviate much of the "normal" noises a hitch can make. But yes, like everyone else says, make sure your hitch etc is correct.

https://www.amazon.com/StowAway-Cargo-Carriers-20-6-Tightener/dp/B0001CMUV4

a) smarties!!!! we both have them on our lists!!!

now that im looking we have a lot in common on our lists same protein powder, sour patch kids. creatine. and now im going to add the bumper dumper


b) since we have a lot of the same items, im gonna try to pull things off my wishlist that you might like:

You seem to do a lot of outdoors type stuff, how about a waterproof iphone case. a recovery strap incase you ever get suck or need to pull someone out.

You must workout since you have protein powder and the like: i hear this is a great workout book.

and last but not least, a camping cot

To go along with another poster, this is the type of tow hitch I put on my wifes’ car. Research before buying, but hers was just bolts into factory threaded holes in the frame. Only thing I had to do was run a tap in the threads as the car was a few years old and they had some surface rust. They’ve got these for pretty much any make and model. Then you can get any hitch style rack and not worry about the frame. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00537G3CY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1-C4CbT8T6CE5

I've got this smittybilt which has worked great for pulling small tree stumps and did this to my gate post when I tried to drag it out.

I'd seriously reconsider pulling any stranger's cars though. If you wanna help carry jumpers, a snow shovel and a cell phone. Dont risk liability fucking up their (or your) vehicle trying to pull it.

I have used a hitch mounted back rack for many trips. It works great and can hold 300-500 pounds depending on the rack. Link for Hitch and rack. Video of install.

If you have some slop between the hitch rack and receiver, you can use a "hitch tightener" or "hitch anti-sway clamp" to get rid of it.

I think this is the one I use with my hitch rack:

https://www.amazon.com/StowAway-Tightener-Anti-Rattle-Stabilizer-Hitches/dp/B0001CMUV4

It's worked well with my XR650L, which is close to 350 lbf with a full tank of gas. I can just about stand on one edge of the rack without any twist between the rack and receiver. It eliminated a lot of bounce and sway of the rack with respect to my SUV.

This might be your best option.

Reese Towpower 7020500 1-1/4" to 2" Receiver Adapter - 6" Long https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001IH8Q0A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZaLSBbV3T16H9

Wonderful information.

Do you have any links to the products you mention?

Edit: NVM, found a few.

Window: https://www.amazon.com/KeyGuard-SL-591-Window-Punch-Button/dp/B01FWYKGBQ
Hitch: https://www.amazon.com/HitchSafe-HS7000T-HS7000-Key-Vault/dp/B000I66JEM/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=hitch+lock+box&qid=1554846851&s=automotive&sr=1-1

looks like this one will fit.

I would recommend a flag pole hitch mount like this one: Camco 51611 Hitch Mount Flagpole Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IVGA0G and then get a flagpole in whatever length you need.

If you have a trailer hitch, these are fantastic.

If you want to buy a flagpole mount, here's a good one on Amazon

don't use the straps over a ball. its 32 bucks to do it safely

http://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-29312B-Receiver-Shackle-Receivers/dp/B001CF1A7O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453630343&sr=8-1&keywords=shackle+receiver

Doesn't help you now but next time get a trailer coupler lock.

Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Towpower-72783-Universal-Adjustable-Heavy-Duty/dp/B0008FUH46?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

this is for Trucks...super sweet if you have a hitch

You add it.

They make it very simple. I don't know about volts, but mine used pre-existing holes. Just make sure to follow the directions.

I always wondered if one of these would be useful. https://www.amazon.com/Pit-Bull-CECOMINOD095439-1200Lb-Winch/dp/B000FPGZ6I

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001CF1A7O/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1425270317&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=d+ring+tow+shackle&dpPl=1&dpID=4105SPxSOQL&ref=plSrch

Something like this?

I have two of these i installed to prevent bouncing and such. One on the car bike rack and one on the hitch on the rv the car is attatched to. Not sure about the one on the rv doing much but i am sure the one the car for the bike rack reduced the amount of moving around the bike rack does. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0001CMUV4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

We're talking more like this.

A hitch stabilizer will help keep the hitch basket from wobbling as much as normal.

https://www.amazon.com/StowAway-Tightener-Anti-Rattle-Stabilizer-Hitches/dp/B0001CMUV4

Oem screw in attachment and the d ring is from Amazon. Smittybilt 13047B 3/4" Black D-Ring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CF1A6U/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_aOpavb0YDMM77
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001CF1A6U/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_aOpavb0YDMM77

I went with 2" since it's easier to go down than it is to go up.

Got this for my 2017 cx5, not certain it fits the newer ones

Curt 13315 Black 2" Class 3 Trailer Hitch Receiver for 2013-2018 Mazda CX-5 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071S18BY2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lHZBCbCFCV8R5

I wouldn't consider it cheap. On Amazon, this is $13.22. Also on Amazon, you can get a 10,000 lb capacity tow strap for $12.99. For 27 cents more than the bottle cutter, you can get a 50,000 lb capacity tow strap for $13.49

Hmm, i'm confused how you're picturing the setup I def can see using rope but not sure the best way to do it. I don't mind spending money to have quality stuff either(esp when falling = not fun, though I'll prob make the one thing I move day to day a nice pad under me)

Edit: found these too meant to ask about them: Metal Cam Straps w/ 1 inch Flat Nylon
[Choose Your 1" FNW Color:Navy Blue][Pick Your Length:50ft.][Choose Your Metal Cam Buckle Type:Black Oxide Moto Cam Buckle][Add a Buckle Pad:No Buckle Pad] Can't link to the options I picked so included that.

So that and these: https://www.amazon.com/Saver-Winch-Strap-Pound-Capacity/dp/B00Z8R7T3Q

So where would you say rope would be better, replace both of those? and just put the rings on the rope and use knots instead of metal cam?

I have this one. Its been used a ton and is still holding up very well. I think I paid 10-12 bucks for it.

I installed my own ... it took about 1 hour and really wasn't all that tough.

I installed this hitch receiver https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071S18BY2

And this wiring harness https://www.etrailer.com/Custom-Fit-Vehicle-Wiring/Tekonsha/118563.html

You do have to disconnect the exhaust from its hangers (which is easy) and support the exhaust during the install. I did this with a ratcheting tie down.

You might be better off just doing this yourself.

Home made, here’s the link to the flagpole holder:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IVGA0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_9OVhDb4SM16VD

Also need the post, the flag, the cap to the post, and a three o-ring clamps. Two of the o-rings are are for the flag and one I put about midway up so I can lock down the post with ratchet straps to prevent swaying (makes it stable even on the highway)

One of these would work well in the trailer hitch.

Exactly, I went with the 30, 000 lbs because i got a sweet deal, its smittybuilt and im no where close to that weight so its a bit of piece of mind

Here is the link!

I just bought this the other day and installed it last night. Takes about an hour and is straight forward. You will be all set on the Jeep side of towing.

This guy knows his stuff.

I have a 2013 Volt. I used this hitch:

https://smile.amazon.com/CURT-11221-Class-Trailer-Hitch/dp/B0072UHJ8W

Then mount a motorcycle carrying rack on that. That should work just fine as long as it isn't over the weight limit for the hitch.

I own the same carrier and ended up getting one of these to tighten things up a bit. Mine was a bit loose in the receiver and this did the trick. Welcome to the club and as my father used to say, "If you don't fall down you aren't going fast enough!"

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0001CMUV4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the amazon link for the roof rack and extension

CURT 18115 Roof Rack Cargo Carrier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004O844DS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_abVQlXXLpvsva

CURT 18117 Roof Rack Cargo Carrier Extension https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004O844EM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_98O8EexwyeZvt

All Amazon dude.

Curt Roof Rack: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004O844DS/

Curt Rack Extension: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004O844EM/

Crown Auto Jerry Cans: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00E0OSDPQ/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IVGA0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_7jAMtCbb1stX6

This might be your best bet. I've had it for a couple on months now and not too bad. Got up go 80 MPH multiple times with no problem. Use a 2" PVC pipe from Home Depot and spray paint it black then get two eyehook screws and call it a day!

I copied and pasted this from a different comment, I wanted you to know about this as well!

You might want to look into a hitch tightener or other anti-rattle device.

http://www.amazon.com/StowAway-Cargo-Carriers-20-6-Tightener/dp/B0001CMUV4/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1465239011&sr=1-1&keywords=hitch+tightener

If you have a trailer hitch, just get one of these.

http://www.amazon.com/HitchSafe-HS7000T-HS7000-Key-Vault/dp/B000I66JEM

Start Here
https://www.amazon.com/Camco-51611-Hitch-Flagpole-Holder/dp/B004IVGA0G

I used this from Amazon. Made it really simple. Camco 51611 Hitch Mount Flagpole Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004IVGA0G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JleIxb0T3VG59

http://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-29312B-Receiver-Shackle-Receivers/dp/B001CF1A7O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1463111234&sr=8-1&keywords=hitch+receiver+shackle

Maxtrax

Also D-Rings and a tow strap or snatch strap for somebody to pull you out.D-Ring Snatch Strap

-http://www.amazon.com/Camco-51611-Hitch-Flagpole-Holder/dp/B004IVGA0G

-http://www.amazon.com/Standard-Hitch-Flag-Holder-Made/dp/B00KXDFGMQ/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1404638839&sr=1-2&keywords=flagpole+hitch

One's angled the other's not, i prefer the angled but up to you.

Or this if you don’t have time to make one.

Do you have a hitch?

Hitch Safe

I use one of these little guys

HitchSafe HS7000 Key Vault https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I66JEM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SluqzbTBPH13A

One security-through-obscurity option if you have a trailer hitch. Also a 4-digit combo, but whatever.

Here's a non-ghetto way: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-51611-Hitch-Flagpole-Holder/dp/B004IVGA0G

For the front and rear as long as you have a tow hitch in the rear.

https://www.amazon.com/Smittybilt-29312B-Receiver-Shackle-Receivers/dp/B001CF1A7O

Can't fix it being heavy, but you can use this to address the wobble: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001CMUV4/?coliid=I27GJD1GE71WLC&colid=3IEN4PCTO7GYG&psc=0

I use this paired with this strap

If you have a trailer hitch, I can't recommend this enough.

Yeah...clean out everything from it before you go, and leave an itinerary under the driver’s seat.

Side note, if you have a trailer hitch and don’t want to risk losing your keys, there are mini combination safes for leaving your keys with the vehicle that lock into the trailer hitch with a cap to hide the combo lock like this one: HitchSafe HS7000 Key Vault https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I66JEM/ (~$45)

You are better off using a recovery strap to pull someone who is stuck on the side of the road. If the metal hooks on the end of your tow strap fail, now you have a projectile shooting towards either your car or the other guy's car. Those straps are more for pulling someone at a constant speed on the road.

Not a 4x4. GMC 1500 Sierra. Truck got stuck, not the TT. The sand you see in the pic is nicely packed and easy driving. The sand I got stuck in was fine like flour and literally 16 inches deep. The front tires bogged down and built a barrier, which made me lose momentum. Then the rear started spinning. I was making slow progress with a shovel and traction boards. Then the ridgeline dude showed up. His power plus mine was all that was needed.

Traction control also was a problem. I forgot to turn it off. So when I started spinning the rear started bucking.

Deflating the tires would have helped but I have never had a problem at this location before (4 trips) so I just plowed through. Also, I’m a little wary of the low inflation trick. Just makes me uncomfortable.

I suggest some tools.
Shovel
Traction boards
Tow straps
Maybe tire tracks

Another ME chiming in here.

My prediction on FMA is you're gonna snap that flag pole right where those eyebolts pass through it. No fancy ass metal base would stop that.


I agree, get something proper: http://smile.amazon.com/Camco-51611-Hitch-Flagpole-Holder/dp/B004IVGA0G (plus is someone rear ends you, they can be tried for treason)