Reddit mentions: The best rc vehicle batteries

Buy cheap and buy twice. Save your money and get good stuff. The extra money you'll spend will be less in the long run when you factor in having to upgrade all of your current equipment when you start getting serious and realizing you shouldn't have gone cheap.

• Do you want a monitor? For that price you can do a DIY goggle system which is much more immersive.
  
  
• That camera isn't great (especially considering the best camera you can buy is only $35) and that VTX transmits too hot to be used in a race. You can get a 200mw ImmersionRC VTX for ~$30. If you wanted to spend a little more you could get the TBS Unify Pro or TBS Unify Pro HV (the newest version which has a built in regulator) which, on top of other nice features, lets you adjust the output mW between 25-200-500-800
  
  
• I always recommend the Alien 5' frame first and the QAV 250 second. If you don't want to spend $100 more dollars on a frame - I don't blame you, but you get what you pay for. You can buy clones that have lesser quality or stick with the one you have picked out. Keep in mind, the Rotor Riot edition frame I linked to includes a lot of nice extras that you'll end up needing during your build - zip ties, ratched ties, foam padding, heat shrink, wires, etc.
  
  
• Those motors are small. Depending on if you want to race or if you're just looking to fly casually, you'll need to double your motor budget and get something bigger that can deliver more power. The best motors out right now for price and performance is the Emax 2205 2300kv (aka "Red Bottom") motors. They also happened to be recently added to the Rotor Riot store and match the red anodized screws of the Rotor Riot Alien Frame
  
  
• Naze 32 is a popular board. If I'm not mistaken this is an F1 board and most people have/are migrating to F3 boards. I would consider an F3 board since it has better features and faster calculating speeds. Popular F3 sized flight controllers are the Tornado, LUX, or the SP Racing F3 boards. I personally use the KISS flight controller and matching KISS 24a ESCs which are the best of the best and 100% worth it.
  
  
• The Props are good but you'll want to go with a 5040 or a 5045 for that size quad. 5x4x3 is preferred by many, but this is completely personal preference and tri-blade props will break more often. However, props are really cheap. Gemfam is pretty good, but HQ is higher end. Lumenier just released their own line of props I'd like to check out. Most Lumenier stuff is really good quality.
  
  
• The best receiver you can get right now is very inexpensive. I wouldn't recommend any other receiver or transmitter combo no matter how you're planning to fly or what you're planning to do. The Taranis X9D Plus and X4R w SBUS are the only TX and RX on the market for FPV worth buying. Anything else is a waste of money and a complete shame. The TX is the last one you'll ever buy no matter how far you go into the hobby and the matching RX is the best money can buy right now and it's only $25.
  
  
• Those ESCs are very, very dated. Not many people use 12a ESCs anymore and if you ever plan on competing you won't get very far with these 12a Afros. At least get the 20A Afros if you're sold on the brand. If there's anywhere on your quad you don't want to go cheap - it's the ESCs, Motors, and Flight controller. For ESCs and Flight controller I recommend nothing but KISS (KISS flight controller and matching KISS 24a ESCs). Some people might diagree, most would argue there's better and cheaper alternatives, but hardly any would contest the fact that KISS is the best. It's what guys like FinalGlide and Steele use.
  
  
• Batteries can be really confusing when you're starting out so I won't fault you there, but these batteries aren't what you're looking for. You want either a 1300mah or 1500mah. Most people consider the 1300mah size the sweet spot. On top of that, you'll want a 3s or 4s depending on how fast you want to go and how much power you want to have. 3s is getting really dated and most people are running 4s these days. The third thing you want to look for is the "C" rating (which isn't dependable anymore because of marketing). You want a battery with a high C rating which means your battery is capable of outputting large amounts of power without catching fire - something you need for FPV. I've never used these, but the Turnigy Nano batteries are a great price. For the price I'm thinking about getting a few and testing them, but I have a feeling this may be one of those situations where a brand is marketing a higher C rating than what the battery can actually output due to the price. However, I could be wrong and I'm sure it's a great battery for anyone starting out. Other high end batteries are the Lumeniers and Tattu.
  
  
• Perfect antennas. These are what I use and you shouldn't use anything else. The next comparable set of antennas are TBS Triumph, but the ImmersionRC antennas have still been tested to be a hair more reliable.
  
  I was in the same boat as you. I only had roughly $700 to spend, and for me, that's a lot of money. I picked out most of the components you did and read reviews, watched videos, and did nothing but learn, learn, learn. After dozens of hours researching and learning new things, what I found is that if I wanted a drone that a) Flew good and b) was fast and c) was responsive - I was going to have to spend more and go quality. The adage "Buy cheap and buy twice" rings true in life and holds doubly true in this hobby. In the end, I decided to go the quality route. I ended up spending ~$475 on my quad and picking up a second job to pay for the TX and goggles. It's ultimately up to you, but if you want to freestyle, go fast, and end up racing. I would strongly recommend not going frugal in regards to your quad. It's what the vast majority of people told me not to do and, even though I spent way more, I'm glad I listened and built a top quality high end quad that's going to last.
  
  My Build:
  
  RotorRiot Alien 5' Frame
  
  KISS FC & KISS ESCs
  
  EMAX 2205 2300KV (aka Red Bottoms)
  
  TBS Unify Pro HV
  
  HS1177 camera
  
  ImmersionRC Spironet Antennas
  
  HQ 5x4x3 Props
  
  
  Taranis X9D Transmitter and matching X4R Receiver
  

Responding to your comments mostly... sorry for the wall of broken up text..

Attaching a gopro is more about the thrust of the quad than the strength of the carbon fiber. I would guess you could attach one to either build.

They will both likely be "overpowered" for you, but yea you'll grow into it.

I would argue the Racerstar ESCs are also more reliable than the Eachines.

If that's the matek with the OSD that shows your battery voltage, it's a great PDB (around $13 right now I think).

Haven't used an F4 board yet, but recently upgraded to the SP racing f3 and I sure do like it.

Props are cheap anyways and you'll be buying more at some point.

The Monster FPV cam should work great for you, there's a $25 clone of the HS1177 on banggood that would also work well.

Your vTx looks good. Make sure your antenna match the vtx port (sma or rp-sma) and check whether you need male or female.

YES get the 65C batteries. Though that rating isn't held to a standard for marketing them, you'll want some nice high-C, 4S batteries. I suggest both these Tattu 4S 1300mah batteries on amazon for around $25 (the price changes), and those infinity graphene 4s batteries on banggood (though it looks like maybe they took them off their site?). Get a few batteries, you're not going to want to have to charge every 5 min of flight you get.

I hear great things about the IMAX B6 charger here, but I personally use this Charsoon Antimatter 250W charger and love it. I grabbed a nice balance/parallel board for it and can charge 4 batteries in about 45 minutes. Just get one that people haven't had many problems with, and learn to safely charge lipos. Otherwise, there's a fire risk.

I have both the EV800s and the VR D2s. Got them for the same price (~$50) and like the VR D2s a bit better. But really, the EV800s are great. Again, make sure you get the correct antenna upgrades.

If you'll want to be flying a lot right away, maybe try to get 4 batteries. Otherwise I'd start with 2 if that's all you can afford, and get more later.

DON'T get that kit - the pieces are ancient and on a 2200mAh battery that thing will barely fly.

Here's a suggestion: instead of a 5-inch, build a Whoop. The advantage of doing that is 1) it's much, much cheaper, and 2) you could fly the thing in the classroom if you wanted.

Shipping won't be a problem - we're getting everything from Amazon prime.

BetaFPV F4 FC - We start with this. My first thought was to use the much cheaper Silverware-based Lite board. However, the problem with that is getting a transmitter that works with it. So instead we're going to go with a Betaflight board. Part of what you can do is use the Project Mockingbird tune on it and explain how the settings impact flight.

Beta65S Frame (Package of 2) - Ideally, we would use the set that includes the frame and motors, but sadly that's currently out of stock so we're going to have to buy the frame and motors separately.

These 7x16 motors - The BetaFPV motors are better, but those are out of stock at the moment. Plus, you're not going to be racing this thing, so we're not going to worry about great motors for this project.

FPV Camera and VTX - Again, we're not going for the greatest quality here, just something that will work. If you have access to a 3D printer, you can print off a mount. Otherwise, we're going to secure this to the board with some outdoor mounting tape and small rubber band hair ties.

Props - We're going with 4-blade for thrust - You get 16 of them, so 4 pairs.

Now you have a quad. What's our total price (as of today on Amazon, all with Prime shipping)?

$87.94 - Yup, you have a Betaflight enabled quad with OSD for less than $100. And this quad will actually be a decent flying one too. The only thing you will need to solder are the power wires to the camera.

We also need batteries and a charger. For the charger we're going to go with a basic USB charger. Nothing fancy, but it will do. For batteries, these batteries will be fine for your purposes. And we get 4 of them. We're at $108.92, with Prime shipping.

Now we have our aircraft, battery, and charger. We still need a transmitter and some FPV gear. This is where stuff gets really expensive, but we have some options that will work for your project.

First, BETAFPV sells a really basic transmitter that uses FrSKY for $39. Normally, I'd say get a QX7, but we're artificially restricting ourselves to Amazon Prime for this. This really is a no-frills, toy-grade transmitter, but it works. And now our total cost is at $150.

For FPV, you have two options. The first is a bargain-basement headset. Here's one for $50. Is it going to be a great headset? Heck no! But it will work just fine.

The other option is to display the FPV feed on a TV. If you're going to do an in-class presentation, I'd go that way. Make sure you have a TV with an analog input though! Here's a cheap FPV receiver with analog output. $16! You don't get diversity, you don't get a great antenna, but again, we're just going for the basics. This receiver requires a 12V power supply, which could either be a 3S LiPo or a plug-in one. Since you don't have any LiPos, let's just go with a wall power supply. $13.

Either way, you're at under $200 all-in. For your project, you can show how to install Betaflight, show how different tuning parameters affect flight, and even fly indoors for an in-class demonstration! Plus, if you decide to get into the hobby, you can get yourself a QX7 and a better set of FPV goggles and have a decent quad for indoor flying.

I haven't included any soldering equipment - for this, you just need a fine-tip soldering iron. You just need to attach the four lines of the FPV camera to the board - red to positive, black to negative, the camera output to the camera input on the board, and the board video output to the VTX input on the camera. The connections will be VERY small, so this is where getting help would be a good idea.

For the camera mount, there are any number of them on Thingiverse that would work just fine. Otherwise, get some 3M mounting tape and the small rubber bands used for kid's hair. Put the mounting tape on the board and use the rubber band between the tiny little nubs on the side of the frame to secure the camera down. If you have access to a 3D printer, this camera mount will work just fine. 3D printing the parts can be part of your class project.

This would give you literally everything you need to fly, some opportunities to set up Betaflight and tune things, and is something you could actually use if you decide to fly FPV when the project is done. Plus, everything's on Amazon Prime so the shipping should not be a problem.

Congrats, just got mine 2 months ago.

SeeMeCNC forums are awesome. Start reading every new post.

Best upgrade I've done: PEI Bed

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0013HKZTA
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7D5NQ

~$30 in upgrades; all my prints stick and pop off with ease. Also, the underside of every part is glassy and smooth. So good.

Buy "feeler gages" to assist with leveling the bed.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-Proto-J000AA-Master-Feeler/dp/B001HWDOK8/

My bed leveling process is kinda like this:

• Set the Z=0 spot, should be where you feel friction when pulling a single, blank piece of printer paper between the nozzle and print bed.
  
  
• Edit the radius of swing in the EEPROM settings per the instructions (I missed this the first time through).
  
  
• Setup and run the tower calibration script.
  
  
• Figure out what the gap is for the central point with the feeler gages; mine was between .006" and .007" (.006" fit, .007" didn't).
  
  
• Now use those "Go" and "No-Go" gages to check the three tower points.
  
  
• If you need to adjust all three towers in the same direction, change the EEPROM radius instead, 0.2 steps.
  
  
• Every few tower calibration runs, re-calibrate the Z=0 point. It will shift as you move screws and change EEPROM settings.
  
  Let's see, what else. If you can spare the cash, I moved to Simplify3d for all my slicing needs ($100~$150 for the license). Love it. If you can't afford it, maybe you'll find a way.
  
  Also, get ready to do a bajillion calibration runs. I mean it, don't be in a rush.
  
  Find a nice 20mm box off thingiverse or whatever, and you're gonna want to print that repeatedly while you dial in your settings. Once that's set, move on to the hollow pyramid, or the 5mm stairs.
  
  I seriously printed at least 20 of each of these while I dialed in my settings:
  
  
• Extrusion Multiplier
  
• Retraction Settings
  
• Speed
  
• Infill, Outline Overlap
  
• Printing temp
  
• etcetcetc
  
  ASAP, move over to PLA. Prints so much nicer for me than ABS.
  
  Oh, before you go to PLA, make sure you print 3x of the layer fans housings (not just 1x) and order up 2 more of the "squirrel cage" fans (centrifugal fans) from SeeMeCNC. edit: I spliced the single pair of layer-fan wires into three right at the connectors, I didn't bother running extra wire for them.
  
  Oh, and one other big improvement I made was putting connectors in-line with the hot-end and for all the fans. This way, if I have to replace a fan or upgrade the hot-end I don't have to cut and splice wires, I can just pop it off and connectorize another new one. Here are the connectors I used:
  
  
• Hot end, high-current lines
  
• Crimp tool
  
• 1 2 3 4 for the lower-current fan lines and thermistor lines.
  
  That was probably too much info -- just take your time and try not to get frustrated while you get things all set up. It is not a plug-'n-play object, it requires care and feeding.
  
  ... oh, and have fun! Whatcha gonna print?

Okay, here's my recommended loadout for you: (using your $1k budget)

Gun: Tokyo Marui Recoil Shock M4 SOCOM $460 Test firing video of gun

And yes, despite all the Tokyo Marui stigma that all their electric guns are cheap plastic, the new ones (since 2009) are made of metal.

Mags x3-5 $75-$125

Battery and Charger

Most Tokyo Marui guns hold their values really well, and they perform well too. Most guns, when you open the box, they instantly lose 1/3 of their value from you just touching it. But Tokyo Marui guns have a reputation of being reliable and pretty rare outside of Japan, so they hold their values much better, usually at 80% of original, or sometimes if you find the right buyer it'll hold 100% of their value. Not to mention they perform very good and have superb accuracy right out of the box. The Socom M4 also has a unique bolt lock (like the Systema PTW) and a simulated recoil function that provides feedback when you shoot it. Downside to this gun is that you need to buy special magazines for the gun to feed, or buy an adapter. So if you somehow don't like Airsoft, then you can resell this gun for basically MSRP.

Shirt: Voodoo Tactical Combat shirt $30 Best combat shirt, very breathable, has zippers to vent armpits as well.

Plate Carrier: Shellback Tactical Banshee plate carrier $130 Pretty much a real steel plate carrier, one of the best you can buy, and is not that bulky for better mobility.

Dump pouch: Any dump pouch will do, $15

Mag pouches: I use a condor one $20 (because I'm cheap) but I've tried a HSGI Taco pouch $30 each and they're pretty good... But pretty expensive

Eye Protection: If you play outdoors and want goggles, I can't really give you a recommendation here, but I play indoors and I use a full facemask the dye i4. It fits really well to your face, is low profile, and never fogs.

I would use the remaining money on gun equipment to make to make it more "OPERATORZ"

G&P red dot sight Eotech 551 clone $60

Magpul PTS Handguards $20

Magpul MOE vertical Grip $20 will only work with the MOE hand guards above

Hey

Disclaimer: I do not own a nano cp s nor a dx6i, and english is my second language so…

I did a bit of research about collective pitch heli, so I might be able to answer some of your questions so:

First, Single transmitter versus AR610 receiver: the one with the AR610 receiver, it's if you want to use it in boat/planes/car or even bigger helicopter. If you only plan to fly the cp s it is not need to buy (for now, flying is addictive).

Mode 2 is a good idea for helicopter, so you have your cyclic on the same stick (right one).

You do not need anything else to fly with nano, only the transmiter. It would be a very good idea to get more batteries and a charger unless you plan to fly 6/7min and wait more than half an hour to fly again for your battery to charge (and it's a good idea to wait for the battery to cool down after flying and after charging (and for cp s motor too unless they will burn very fast too)).

You'll need a charger, two ways of going:

1s charger

Charger and parallel harness/board, more hassle than the 1s one, but if you plan to fly something bigger someday, you would have to buy one anyway.

If you only want a 1s charger, looks like something like this http://www.amazon.com/E-Flite-Celectra-4-Port-Battery-Charger/dp/B001XIMGP0/ref=pd_bxgy_21_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1B607A3B3CNZK8RSK8R9 or Hitec X4 (I think) would be a good buy.

For the battery, as the horizon hobby website show, it uses the same as Nano qx so:

http://www.amazon.com/4-Pack-Lectron-Pro-3-7-volt/dp/B0088W63AS/ref=pd_rhf_se_s_cp_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=41r%2BuA5GizL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR135%2C135_&refRID=0F6HY90N2525TFX3XDWA (I didnt test those mysef)

Mylipo.De 205mah (didnt test those myself too)

I tested those for nano Qx: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__38358__Turnigy_nano_tech_160mah_1S_25_40C_Lipo_Kyosho_E_flite_Nano_CP_X_Parkzone_Etc_EU_Warehouse_.html but they were a bit bigger than the original battery, had to use a dremel to make it fit, not that of a good idea. (edit: they are not high quality battery, they are standard, cheap, but you get what you pay for. For me at least, couple of them already show increased resistance (might be because of the shitty plug))

For sim:

I'm using this one everyday:
http://www.heli-x.info/cms/ it even have a mac version!

Now, for the cable, I have no idea since I dont have a dx6i.
But google said:
Heli-X DX6I and Mac

I suggest you ask your question on:
Helifreak They have a section special cp s

Some very interesting reading:

Newbies guide to the DX6i for RC helicopters how to set up the dx6i to calm down the helicopter
From tail-in to all 8s and funnels in 6 months. Plan to learn 3d flying ? Read that post, very interesting.

Why the nano cp s and dx6i combo by the way ?

Well, went longer than expected … heh

I also have H107L, and have been super happy with these batteries. They are 380 mAh, which I wanted to try before jumping to 500 mAh. I have been super happy with them. I haven't timed it, but it does feel like I get quite a bit more flying time. But of course, the main thing that makes a difference is having five of them :)

Obviously you'll also want a charger. I was going to get the same combo that /u/jackthecat53 mentioned, but some of the reviews made it sound like the charger wasn't that good. So I got a separate charger, which seems to be doing the job, but it feels super cheap, it turns out.

At any rate, I am super stoked about these batteries, and the way-improved flight time I'm able to get.

Those batteries are a little chunky for a 250. I have some and they are slightly bigger and heavier than my 2200mAh zippy compact but I like to fly 1500 zippy the best on mine. I got the 2206 motors on my h250cf 3k pro and just added 20a esc and 6040 props to it last night. It's a beast! I use that same charger and it's great. I say go with the 99$ kit h250cf pro kit.
I would also not recommended the flysky fs-t6 I was seeing brown outs with it and left negative review on Amazon for the product. I now use a taranis and it really is amazing! Here is my speed run this weekend. I need to tilt my fpv camera so I can go faster and see where I'm going. This isn't all she has by any means. This was warm up before I went tree cruising
RCX H250CF 3K Pro 3/1/15: http://youtu.be/p6pV1zKdQTw

>Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

>I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

>This is the charger

>And I'm considering a few of these batteries

Seems like everyone is assuming he wants a kit and to build it himself, but I don't see that you said that. So, is that the case?

Will this be his first multicopter? If so, I would recommend something that is ready to fly (RTF) right out of the box. There are lots of good options, but I really enjoy my Hubsan x4 simply because how easy it is to get replacement parts. The price and reliability are nice as well ;)

You can put him together a nice "kit" with a hard case, spare parts, extra batteries for about $175 $135 on Amazon. It will be RTF, but also give him room to learn about the platform and repair mistakes.

EDIT: Actually a little cheaper... if he has not flow before, this is a fun, cheap christmas present.

Complete Starter Kit for Hubsan x4 | ------------
---|---
Hubsan H107C | $54.00 |
Carrying Case | $24.99 |
Crash Kit | $17.50 |
5 Extra Batteries | $18.39 |
Battery Charger | $6.36 |
Prop Guard | $2.73 |
------------|------------
Total | $123.97

Amazon is great especially if you get fast shipping. Local hobby shops near you would also sell batteries, but they would be more expensive. However honestly, a local hobby shop most likely would sell batteries with banana plugs, and I don't think pre-made adapters that go from banana plug to XT30 exist premade, while you can easily find XT60-XT30 adapters. You will also need to buy a balance charger to charge your new batteries. These chargers make sure all the cells in your batteries are charged to equal voltages, which is important in terms of safety and increasing the longevity of your batteries. I ordered my own batteries and charger from Amazon and they arrived in a couple of days, so if you're comfortable with using Amazon there's nothing wrong with the batteries there. Heres an example of one https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1485569927&sr=8-2&keywords=3s+1300mah

Well that mostly depends on budget. I got this Eachine Wizard x220 a few days ago, but I got the bind & fly version since I already have a radio. This thing is GREAT, my main quad I built about a month ago needs to be tuned and I didn't have time to today so I flew this instead for all of my flights and it is SHARP. The RTF version (the one I linked) comes with everything you need to fly but you'd also need goggles like FatSharks if you're willing to spend a lot on goggles or Eachine VR007's if you want something cheaper to start out on FPV with. I started with the Eachine's and they work fine, but after awhile the size will start to get annoying with no DVR and some other bells and whistles FatSharks have (I just got FatSharks a couple days ago and they're great!). And of course you would need a camera. The first GoPro session does 1080p60fps and it's only $200 so you'd be under $500. I'm not 100% sure this comes with a battery too though so you'd want a few extra 4S 1300mAh batteries and a charger for them (lot's of different options here so these are the batteries I use and here is the charger I use ). Just make sure you get batteries with an "XT60" connector and your charger has an XT60 charging cable. Here's a great video made by a fellow r/Multicopter user on how to safely charge LiPo batteries. They are no joke!

Anyway this is a GREAT quad to start with, the only downside to it IMO is that it uses the "FlySky" radio transmitter and receiver which is not that great. I started out with a different version of the one this has and my first quad lost signal and smashed face first into concrete from over 50 feet up. Luckily most components on these are tough as nails so it's a cheap fix, I just had to replace a GoPro lens (GET LENS PROTECTORS!) and a couple small parts. Anyway, I believe the radio in this one is a newer version that has had way less problems than mine, so if you get it maybe just range test low and over grass or something before going crazy?

If you want to watch a review of this quad, here's a great review made by u/uavfutures (same guy that did the LiPo video), who convinced me to buy it and I wasn't disappointed.

One more thing...have you ever flown a quad before or flown FPV? If not you may want to pick up a Blade Inductrix FPV and some goggles to get the basic idea down before you spend money on something you don't know how to fly. If you have any more questions let me know!

> I ended up with a bunch of 550mah 3S batteries: can I use them to tinker with this build?

I suspect you would get a minute of lackluster performance from those batteries on a 5" quad. However, those are great bats for a 2" build. So save them.

> Battery options once I'm 100% ready to fly?

Amazon sells Tattu and Infinity Graphene 1300 mAh 4S batteries that would work well with your rig. Ensure you get a high C rating (60+).

> Prop options?

Those DAL props are great. Other options are the HQ 5x4.3x3 props.

> Extra wires?

I have never needed to buy extra wires. You'll collect plenty from parts you buy.

> I feel much more comfortable dealing with this kind of merchant.

There are other reputable merchants with US stock at competitive prices. Examples are heli-nation.com, getfpv.com, racedayquads.com, etc. The amazon/ebay merchants are mostly just buying from the overseas guys and upping the price. But I understand the sentiment.

As far as checking your build. You'll probably need to buy an XT60 connector and wire to solder to the FC/PDB (Like these). You'll need need some battery straps (Like these). You'll need a vtx antenna (rec: Foxeer).

Do you have a battery charger?

Do you have FPV goggles?

Congrats on the new toy. Looks like a decent power system (Mamba Monster/Castle motor) I agree with the 4S for starters to help learn control.

The challenge is the ESC is wired with a single battery lead (looks like a Traxxas plug going into a XT60 adapter), so the previous owner must have run a single battery. 4S batteries can be more expensive than two 2S, for example from Amazon right now:

• Gens ace 7.4V 2S 5000mAh 50C hardcase are $37/each x 2 = $74
  
• Gens ace 14.8V 4S 5000mAh 50C hardcase are $86/each
  
  Plus you'll get half the run time with a single 4S battery (5000mAh) versus two 2S (2 x 5000mAh = 10000mAh).
  (Note: I'm not recommending Gens Ace brand as I don't have any experience with it, it is only for example purposes)
  
  
  Any chance you have a buddy that can solder? If not you might be able to find an adapter but most are made with thin wire (thinner than the wire on your ESC) that won't support the current draw of the Mamba ESC. Some of my local hobby stores (LHS) will solder a connection if you buy the parts/battery there. You might check your LHS for help, and it is always good to make friends that know more than you about the hobby!
  
  Enjoy!

If you can get a good balancing charger and can be responsible and safe with it, a lipo will definitely be better than IMRs as far as performance goes. If you do go with lipos, you should probably get a better rev switch.

Here's a good rev switch:
https://www.amazon.com/SODIAL-Microswitch-V-156-1C25-plunger-action/dp/B00K67YO8G/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1496202242&sr=8-2&keywords=15A+microswitch

And here's a great lipo:
https://www.amazon.com/ZIPPY-Compact-1000mAh-Lipo-Pack/dp/B00TDCDKLW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496202444&sr=8-1&keywords=zippy+compact+1000mah+3s+25c+lipo+pack

The voltage you want wouldn’t be additive. You would get one battery for the application, then a BEC to get the 5v for the arduino. (The voltage requirement isn’t additive, current is what is additive. Voltage is distributed in parallel.)

The circuit should only draw as much current as the motors allow / chip decides to let through. I would recommend either a 3S Life Battery which produces 9.9v or a 2S Lipo battery (7.4v though). If you are going to be drawing more than a few amps, I recommend the LIPO battery, it has larger wires.

The higher the MAH rating the longer it will last on a charge.

Also, if you are going for LiFe/LiPo get a charger for it. They require special charges. I personally use the Duratrax LI-24 charger. with this balance board to monitor voltage, but something like this is probably better.

As for a BEC, somethis like this should would work. An arduino shouldn’t pull too much amperage, but you should always check your specs to make sure you get a BEC with adequate operating amps.

Edit: I also recommend this servo extension pack especially if you get the LiFe battery, since it will typically have this style connector. I have used those cables several times for custom harnesses, whether it’s making a Y-harness or modifying a battery compartment to accept the LuFe battery.

arrma granite


iMax B6 charger

batteries

Here is a link for an arrma granite monster truck. Great value for performance and reliability. The iMax chargers are great and perform very well at a low cost. I have run these lipos for 20-30 cycles at least with no issues.

I would strongly consider going to your local shop over ordering online. Mostly because you get a better idea of what’s out there and can learn a lot. Also most of the time prices of items in stock match the internet without shipping or wait time. That said I still order stuff online obviously.

Hope this points you in the right direction. Have fun with your boy!

Edit: This comes in at $380 or so.

What do you want to do with it? You going to fool around a couple times or do you really want to have fun with it?
I regularly recommend cheap electronics from Amazon.

With this stuff you'll be ripping around about 40mph for 30 minutes per charge. You'll want new wheels and tires before long.

Brushless combo: $43
GoolRC 3650 3100KV/4P Sensorless Brushless Motor with 60A Brushless ESC（Electric Speed Controller）for 1/10 RC Car Truck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCRZD1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4zsqzbNCY5N14

Transmitter and Receiver: $42
FLYSKY RC 3 CH Transmitter TX FS-GT3B For CAR Boat 2.4Ghz 2.4g w/ Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNJNXVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bBsqzbMWJ5NMH

LiPo Charger: $63
Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 Dual Power (6Amps,50Watts) LiPo,LiHV,LiIon,LiFe,NiCd,NiMH,Pb Lead Acid AC/DC Professional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Discharger (Version 2) w/ Micro USB Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Y2G4Y2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pCsqzbSQ5PAK1

Lipo Battery: $34
Gens ace LiPo Battery Pack 5000mAh 50C 2S 7.4V HardCase 21 with Deans T Plug for RC Car Boat Truck Roar Approved https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WOAWHUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XDsqzbQDQW2BC

LiPo Safe Bag: $8
Teenitor Fireproof Explosionproof Lipo Battery Safe Bag Lipo Battery Guard Safe Bag Pouch Sack for Charge & Storage 185x75x60mm Large size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T01LLP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HEsqzbS0EWKZZ

The charge time really isn't all that bad. It'll charge back up in 10-15 minutes. I really thought it'd bother me but I'm totally okay with it. This is the perfect starter copter to learn how to fly these things.

If it's really a deal breaker and you're okay with spending more, one of the cheapest way you're going to get significantly improved flight time would probably be a Hubsan X4, a 5 pack of batteries, a simple charger, and a prop guard for about $70 before tax.

I'd call that step 2 in the hobby though and would absolutely recommend the Cheerson CX-10 as step 1.

Look on Hobbyking. All the things you picked work but are either overpowered, discontinued or really old. (also your radio includes a receiver so you don't need to buy one extra.

Servo I'd suggest (care with warehouse availability)

https://hobbyking.com/de_de/trackstar-ts-d99x-digital-1-10-scale-touring-drift-buggy-steering-servo-10kg-0-08sec-45g.html

Radio (includes receiver)

https://www.banggood.com/de/Flysky-FS-GT3C-Transmitter-Remote-Control-With-Receiver-Color-Gray-p-1068345.html?gmcCountry=DE&currency=EUR&cur_warehouse=CN&createTmp=1&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cpc_ods&utm_content=heath&utm_campaign=pla-rc-de-pc-de&gclid=Cj0KCQjw_vfcBRDJARIsAJafEnGcJNWN3l7zQY5U4o4L9bLDxvMlIhs8h1LcC1ww3a4AQneDmos-5bIaAtM0EALw_wcB

Battery (you could get cheaper ones at Hobbyking if you were ok with soldering a connector)

https://www.amazon.com/Venom-4000mAh-LiPo-Battery-Tamiya/dp/B002QE3AVE

charger (you need a special one for lipos assuming you don't have one already

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/accuell-s60-ac-charger-us-plug.html


Makes it all a little more expensive but trust me you'll have more fun this way.

Before you use the Lipo definatly read the instructions tho!

Just about.

As the others are saying, get some foam board and build a Flite Test Tiny Trainer from the free plans. You can build this as a glider and throw it around until you're confident with the controls, then add a motor to make a trainer - and then build the 'sport' wing and upgrade the battery to make it aerobatic.

Others are recommending the FS-i6 transmitter, which is a good choice as it'll be good when you get a few more models - but you can go a little cheaper if you don't mind only having one model. $32. If you stay in the hobby you'll definitely want something better before long though - but if you get serious you might want something even better than the i6. After a few years most people are using transmitters in the $100-$300 range.

Here's a 1806 motor $9

Here's a 12amp ESC with a BEC $7 - many quadcopter ESCs don't have a BEC, which you need to power your servos.

Here's a pack of 5 servos for $11 so you have a spare

Two 2s 800mAh batteries for $20

Here's a $11 charger - this is another item you'll want to upgrade if you get into the hobby, so you can charge bigger batteries, or several at once.

4 props for a $1

That's $91, leaving you a bit for foam board, hot glue, music wire (for push rods) and postage.

These links are for reference - I've not tried this exact stuff, but it matches the requirements of the plane. With a bit of hunting you might find the same things even cheaper - especially as I ignored the postage.

You're spot on for the propeller measurements. One thing to keep in mind is almost everyone runs 5" props, so you'll have a lot more options if you build based around that. The only benefit you can find from 6" is if are intentionally trying to do efficient flying for more time, otherwise you won't really see much of a difference.
The additional benefit of smaller props is that you can go a bit smaller on your build, which means less force across the frame when you land and less breaking. I find that 4mm arms are the sweet spot for durability, 3mm is just a little bit low for anything above 150mm. Removable arms are even better while learning, so you don't have to replace the entire frame if one breaks.

I have normal Prime, but not sure if the stuff that shows as Prime eligible for me is the same as the one-day eligible stuff for you. That being said, if I had to build a drone from Amazon right now, I'd go with:

Frame 1 or 2 (actually have this one from a previous build)
ESCs (I prefer separate ESCs rather than 4-in-1 or all-in-1 in case anything breaks)
Flight controller
PDB
Props 1 or 2 depending on what your motors can handle, should be able to do either based on that kv and measurement
Receiver (assuming you get the QX7)
Video transmitter
Camera
Batteries
Charger
Balance board for charging multiple batteries

Left out motors since it sounds like you have some in mind. This kind of build will have plenty of power, probably hover at around 30% throttle if I had to guess, so just keep that in mind. You can tone it down manually by getting some less aggressive propellers, in the flight controller max throttle, or on your transmitter max throttle, but I recommend just getting used to it. Also mess around in simulators, there weren't any when I started out and I would have probably saved a few hundred in parts if they were (though parts back then were like 8x the cost they are today).

I have done a bit of modding here and there, but this is the furthest I've gone to date. At a high level, this is a fully rewired Nemesis running on stock motors but a 3S 1000mah LiPo. It also features expanded ammo capacity, an integrated voltmeter in a 3d printed battery compartment cover, and a nose to tail paint job. This was my first attempt at this type of paint job, and the blaster came second hand, so there are definitely a few imperfections. Still, I think I'm in love. Name for this beauty is still in the works.

​

Detailed parts list:

Blaster: Nerf Nemesis

Switch Mounts: Trigger https://outofdarts.com/products/nemesis-switch-mounting-plate-3d-printed-ideal-trigger-switch-placement and Rev Switch Mounting plates https://outofdarts.com/products/nemesis-rev-switch-mounting-plate-3d-printed-ideal-rev-switch-placement

Micro switches (2): Omron 21A

Battery: Zippy Compact 1000mAh 3S 25C Lipo Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TDCDKLW

Battery Charger: Turnigy E3 Compact 2S/3S Lipo Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XU4ZR06

Battery Door: Custom 3d Printed battery door with hole for voltmeter by Rearmory. https://www.etsy.com/listing/629209612/nerf-rival-nemesis-custom-battery-door

Voltmeter: DC 6-100V Digital Voltmeter https://www.ebay.com/itm/12V-ACID-Lead-Battery-Capacity-Indicator-Charge-Level-LED-Tester-Meter-Voltmeter/292303696369?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Expanded Ammo Hopper: Medium Rear Loading hopper by 3DPrintedSolid https://www.etsy.com/listing/639284923/murder-hole-hopper-attachment-for-nerf

Wiring: 16 AWG silicone wrapped wire

XT60 Connector (1)

Paint: Krylon Primer followed by Dupli-color Metalcast Ground Coat and then Metalcast Yellow/Orange/Red.

OK, I need to clarify this.

When the motors are not firing balls, and as long as I have my finger on the trigger, the motors will run great, and not slow down. So they appear to be working great.

However, It's when they are shooting balls that there is a problem. When they are firing the balls for a solid 10-15 seconds, the motors start to slow down, and sound like the battery is dying.

The battery has a 20C constant rating with 30C burst discharge rate.

The battery I'm using is this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072AEY5I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'll admit that I'm having to read up on the C rating right now. I don't know much about that. Is a 20C battery too low? Or maybe it's just not made to be held down continuously?

Thanks again with all the help you've given me. It really means a lot.

I have no recommendations for a charger, I'm using an older Racers Edge SC1500, so I'm not sure what the current good chargers are. For batteries Venom is pretty good, they come with universal plugs so you can convert to whatever you have. Deans is the standard plug that most people use, it has solid contacts and resists corrosion fairly well.

Venom 20C 2S 4000mAh 7.4 LiPo Battery for Tamiya Cars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002QE3AVE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ZwsSBbRWXWYA7

There are cheaper batteries too.

Fconegy 2S 4000mAh 40C 7.4V Hardcase Lipo Battery Pack with Deans T Plug for RC Car RC Truck RC Boat, RC Hobby https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0791W1TKP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_WxsSBbNMBSZHR


Spektrum brand controllers are good, flysky I've heard has latency issues and cheap components.

Your track may require a LiPo bag to charge in, I recommend getting longer balance plug adapters to go between the battery and charger so you can easily get the battery in the bag.

you are half right. if the increase capacity by including more cells than yes; it will charge faster. and since the only difference between an 80kWh pack and an 100kWh pack is that the 80kWh pack gets 20% blanks instead of cells thats the difference you see while supercharging. but if on the other hand they increase capacity by upgrading the cell chemistry that doesn't mean that you can charge faster.

the other way to increase charging times is by optimizing the chemistry for it. there are RC batteries that can be charged with 60C 15C (fully charged in 4 minutes) compared to teslas 1.3C. the downside of these cells is they have only 1/3 of the capacity of teslas cells (and probably 1/10 of the lifespan).
but you could with further chemical advancments surly increase the charging rate of teslas cells. that's where i'd put my R&D.

Hm. That’s disappointing, but not shocking.

Is that a 3S 2200 mAh 25 C Gens Ace pack?

If so, it should be plenty powerful to run your pick of two Foamblast Valkyries or Krakens, or MTB Neo Rhinos. Foamblast, OutOfDarts, and Containment Crew are probably the largest US-based retailers of the motors, though you might be able to find smaller Etsy shops and what not that are more local.

I’d also recommend picking up a different Set of flywheels and cage; metal flywheels perform a bit worse than stock ones, and the canted cage is prone to whirlibirding darts. Kuryaka’s Daybreak wheels and Cage combo for $25 is a pretty great deal, and will hit 150 FPS with a 41 mm cage and Valkyries.

Your receiver has to be the same protocol as your transmitter.
The battery you chose must have the same plug as your ESC (I use XT60, probably the most common). You can actually solder new connectors onto your battery or ESC but this can be a bit dangerous if you're inexperienced.
Those are pretty much the only two compatibility issues you may run into. Use a known powerplant (motor/prop combo) if you're inexperienced as pairing motors and props can get a bit complicated (kV, prop, power, battery voltage all are factors). The 2200kv turnigy motor with a 6x4 prop plugged into a 30A esc on 3 cells is tried and true.
For example these would work together: motor, ESC, Battery.
Good luck.

Sure.. After all the reviews that I have seen.. The better flight time vs weight vs good punch... Are 205mAh, 230mAh.. Higher C rate better punch...
Ej:

Crazepony 4pcs 205mAh HV 1S Lipo Battery 30C 3.8V for Tiny Whoop Blade Inductrix Micro JST Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MU0H1U0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_q.lPzbF7TJ2RP

Crazepony 4pcs 230mAh HV 1S Lipo Battery 30C 3.8V for Tiny Whoop Blade Inductrix JST-PH 2.0 Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N0Z0ME2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_X.lPzb1J1Q3H8

IMPORTANT : Be sure that connectors on the batteries that you get are JST-PH 2.0, or PowerWhoop Connector..

I’ve been using these with good luck.

1s batteries

I’ve also been abusing them pretty heavily. I’ve charged them to 4.35 instead of 4.2 with the LiHV charger that comes with the tinyhawk and I’ve left them charged for a while longer than I should. They’re cheap enough that if they wear out I’ll just buy more.

On YouTube there are some battery review shootouts where they compare performance but I’ve been more concerned about availablility than tracking down the perfect battery.

Hope this helps!

I disagree - it is still easily possible to run lipos with a regular esc, especially if you already have a lipo charger.

You will need a low-voltage detector alarm - something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tester-Voltage-Buzzer-Alarm/dp/B005GJCJOA
You can set a voltage after which it will go off, and that will warn you that you should avoid discharging the battery further.

As far as battery connectors, you do bring up a good point. The non-traxxas chargers will include a variety of adapters, but none that will directly fit traxxas connector batteries. If you have access to a soldering iron, you can convert your traxxas ESC over to a standardized plug (since you will have the same issues with the batteries). Dean's is what many people use. Theoretically, the traxxas connector has a little more surface area, but in practice, it's not relevant. Your local hobby shop can also do soldering for you. It is possible to charge batteries by just clipping alligator clips onto the terminals, but this is tricky with how concealed the traxxas connectors are.
Regarding batteries, there are three important specifications:

1. Voltage. 2S is 7.4V, which is what you're looking for.
   
2. Capacity. Expressed in milliamp-hours. 5000mAH is a good balance of size/expense/runtime.
   
3. Peak discharge rate. Refers to how much power the battery can supply based on demand. You'll be fine with 20C batteries. The advantage of venom batteries is that they have traxxas connectors if you don't want to do any soldering on your batteries: http://www.amazon.com/Venom-5000mAh-7-4V-LiPO-Hard/dp/B000VUF3O2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1420243945&sr=8-6&keywords=venom+battery+2s
   
   If you don't mind doing some soldering to change the connectors, you can get:
   http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__58916__Turnigy_5000mAh_2S_20C_Lipo_Pack_AR_Warehouse_.html

Battery: Floureon 2 Packs 3S 11.1V 2200mAh 25C RC is too heavy and too weak. Your 4 motors + 5045 triblades will draw up to 24Ax4=~100A of current and battery nominal capability is up to 2,2x25C=55A. Look for 1300mAh 45C or even better 65C.
For instance this Tattu battery:
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/
Or even better this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9SYC0/
These batteries are really good ones, will give you more punch than Floureon ones.

FC: Naze32 is a bit yesterday. If it is your first quad then probably you can use it. Better use SP Racing F3, like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Makerfire-Flight-Controller-SPRacing-Deluxe/dp/B01JS1Z38A

Yeah but it's gotta be affordable, and not fake. I've tried searching for available graphene batteries or systems and so far there isn't really anything you can buy that seems not sketchy. I'm also not impressed by any of the stats that come with some of the less sketchy ones i/e actually rated and not just fake reviews. Until that "graphene" battery has specifications that dictate it's significantly better than anything else I won't buy it. They are always claiming graphene is crazy amazing with super storage and fast charge times but when it has barely more than standard battery storage I get a bit skeptical. I found one which says it's a graphene battery but it's only 14v 1.3 Ah and it weighs 176 grams. While numerous other standard type batteries like this one have the same exact specs but actually weigh less at 155 grams. Which makes no sense considering the supposed capabilities of graphene and perks for using it. Which leads me to believe that it being advertised as graphene is a bit of a stretch towards and outright lie.

Perfect!!! I decided to use that!

Can you let me know if you see any problems with this list?? Anything I can improve?? Anything I don't need??

Frame, PDB, FC, Motors, ESCs

Extra XT60 Battery Connectors

Props

Standoffs

2mm Gold Bullet Connector

Cable/Zip Ties

DIY FPV Kit

Tx/Rx

Tx/Rx to USB Adapter

Drone Battery 1 (heavy) 2200mAh

Drone Battery 2 (light) 1800mAh

FPV battery 1500mAh

What's the cheapest way to be able to get voltage to show on my FPV setup?

-Would I be able to use this voltage checker/warning buzzer?

What about a cheap lost model buzzer/discovery buzzer?? Can I use a switch on my Tx to make the alarm sound??

Is it overkill to get 3 batteries total?? 2 for the drone (So I can keep flying when one is charging) and 1 for the FPV reciever/display?

Thanks for the help!!

Okay I'l definitely be buying the balancer/tester. It seems like all the chargers on hobyking worth buying are on back order. I was looking at this one on amazon because its fairly cheap would it be okay?

I just burned out an ESC on a quad I just finished building :(. What's the best way to determine the cause?

It's a this ESC powered by this battery with this power distribution board. Thanks in advance!

Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

This is the charger

And I'm considering a few of these batteries

I went with a Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack for the controller with this charger and they are XT60


Could I use the same charger for the Quad packs? I have not pulled the trigger on the Turnigy nano-tech 1300mAh 3S 45/90 Lipo Pack yet.


I'm guessing the recommendation for the 1800mah 25-35C is to fly slower at first right? We would by flying FPV but not racing it so I think that's probably a good recommendation.

Since we are already using 2200mAh 3S 20C with an XT60 connector could we just use the same exact pack for the quad? It's rated at 20 constant, 30 burst and we could always use a spare for the controller if we go with a lighter battery with higher discharge for the quad later.

We aren't carrying a GoPro or anything so it would probably support the 2200.

I am not directly powering the motors off arduino so I doubt if it will draw a lot of current. So BEC is like a battery too? Didn't hear of it before.

One motor drew about 350mA so if I run two in parallel, they woud probably draw about 800 or so. I think I am better off with over 1 amperage battery, like you suggested. Surprisingly, it doesn't have a price tag to it. :/

It's 1500 mAh - that means it could supply 1.5A for an hour, right? Is it rechargeable?

I love my nano qx but it's hard on batteries... Initially I got these: http://www.amazon.com/4-Pack-Lectron-Pro-3-7-volt/dp/B0088W63AS/ref=pd_sim_t_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=1677Z6B5A7JMWWEHYQ4P and they work about as good as the stock batteries (last a little longer but the amount of power you get to pull out of tough situations have seems to die a little faster). Additionally after a few dozen flights the batteries stop being able to hold a charge though 3 are still going strong (1 stock and 2 of the lep). I've ordered a bunch of the nano tech batteries http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__11893__Turnigy_nano_tech_160mah_1S_25_40C_Lipo_Kyosho_E_flite_Nano_CP_X_Parkzone_Etc_.html and I'll be moving from a 4 port HiTech charger to a pico compatible balance board attached to a turnegy accucell 6. I'm hoping these batteries will last longer and the charger will be easier on them (at least I can store them at the correct voltage easily...)

TLDR; If I had to start again I'd probably just order a dozen or so of the Nano Tech batteries (they're really cheap but shipping from HK is $$$). And if you plan on getting into RC in the future beyond the qx I'd get a real RC battery charger and a pico compatible board.

> walkera ladybird prop

Get these(amazon or banggood) and the frame that I linked.It will fly way,way better then with that poly frame that you have.Guaranteed!

Here is the female connecter needed for your board.Amazon/banggood also has the 380/400 mah,which I think is the best size for your build.

http://www.rc-drones.com/HubsanWalkera-Style-battery-Connector-MaleFemale_p_1049.html

http://www.amazon.com/Keenstone-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter-Walkera/dp/B00S8VEH3E/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1462406040&sr=1-2&keywords=380+mah

http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter-Walkera/dp/B00HS5Y6G4/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1462406040&sr=1-4&keywords=380+mah

What kind of capacity do you need? Maybe buy or make a 3sXp Li-Ion battery that has however many in parallel you want to fulfill your physical size/capacity requirements.Great Scott has a really great video on him making this but you can buy pre made packs too like these:
(Note that with any of these packs you will need a balance charger or a BMS that has charging function)
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=3s&qid=1572316137&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.com/FLOUREON-Packs-1500mAh-Battery-Truggy/dp/B074PPMFMC/ref=mp_s_a_1_24_sspa?keywords=3s+lithium+ion&qid=1572316188&sr=8-24-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUFUSEcwSDg5RFlGQiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRJZD1BMDI1NzY2ODIxM0IwTURRTlU3MlcmZW5jcnlwdGVkQWRJZD1BMDg3MjQwNjM4VkJGREQ1QVpNQTQmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfbXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==

so basically for the price of 1 name brand i can rock 2 of these

https://www.amazon.com/Floureon-Dean-Style-Connector-Quadcopter-5-51x1-89x0-98/dp/B00N9SU5U0

?

and then a charger such as https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDMYL&P=ML

would work just fine ?

sorry to hit ya with the questions but i just like confirming stuff before i buy

Edit. Some reason it didn't link the right batteries. I did link traxxas versions I thought. Im out now so I'll look them up later. Ty guys.

hmm those should be fine. I also run like 5 of these in my mix of batteries:

https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2

They work great for me. Another thing thats super cheap and easy to try is swapping out the battery connector. I hear a lot of people talk about getting voltage sag making it hard to do flips and rolls and getting it fixed by just replacing the JST(1.25) connector. Never had the issue personally but I have seen a lottt of people talk about it happening to them.

Oh no, you didn't get extra batteries!. If I may, let me pass down some wisdom:

• Your first instinct will to fly it as high as you can, ignore this instinct or you will be buying another one very soon
  
• Take it outside and try to make it hover. Once you can make it hover, try landing it on a specific item (tree stump, electrical generator box, etc).
  
• As soon as possible, get comfortable with higher rate mode (press down on the right stick)
  
• Once you can hover and land, work on flying it in circles. Practice flying it with the nose towards you, it's very very hard at first.
  
• Once you can do circles, move on to figure eights.
  
• Now you're ready for a 250mm size quad like the ZMR 250 or the WarpQuad

Hello, I was just about to order a couple days ago, then figured I should ask you all here on /r/Multicopter if you have any recommendations for changes. I can solder and have tools, is there anything that I am missing here for a complete setup? Oh I also already own a Spektrum DX6i with two Spektrum AR610 receivers.

item | link | price
-|-|-
AV transmitter/receiver | Boscam 32Ch 5.8G 600mw 5km Wireless AV Transmitter TS832 Receiver RC832 for FPV | $35.63
Charger | Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6 Mini Dual Power 6Amps 60Watts Profess​ional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Disc​harger (Version RCLITE) w/ Micro USB Port For RC Lipo Battery Cherge, Temperature Port | $36.58
Heat shrink | uxcell® 1 Meter 50mm Dia Ratio 2:1 Heat Shrinkable Shrinking Tube Black | $6.66
Flight Controller | AbuseMark Acro Naze32 Rev 6 Flight Controller W/ Straight / Bent Pin Headers, Breakout Cable, & Apex RC Products Nylon Standoffs | $39.99
Frame | YKS DIY Full Carbon Fiber Mini C250 Quadcopter Frame Kit for FPV Mini Quadcopter Part | $37.99
Motors | 4pcs EMAX RS2205 2300KV Brushless Motor 2CW 2CCW for QAV250 QAV300 FPV Racing Quadcopter | $78.79
ESC's | Crazepony 4pcs Littlebee 20A Mini ESC Oneshot125 Electronic Speed Controller 2-4S Brushless for FPV Multicopter Quadcopter | $39.99
Props | Hooshion® 16 pcs 8 pairs GemFan HD HQ 5030 5x3 CW CCW Propeller for Mini QAV250 Quadcopter (Black+Orange) | $12.59
Connectors | XT60 Drone Connectors 5 Pairs (5 Male and 5 Female) | $2.96
Battery | Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack | $16.70
AV Antenna | Anbee® FPV 5.8Ghz Circular Polarized Clover Leaf Antenna High Gain Aerial Set w/RP-SMA Plug | $10.98
Camera | SC2000 600TVL D-WDR DNR Board Camera SONY Super HAD CCD for FPV, 2.8mm Lens, IR Blocked Filter | $33.99
| total | $352.85

Amazon makes a huge difference, price wise. What is your budget on a battery/charger?

Cheapest LiPo Charger- $22

3s 45c LiPo - $14

This a really cheap setup that will give you all the power you need.

Every thermoelectric device I've seen consumes a pretty significant amount of power (~20W on one of the ones I've played with, which the one pictured looks very similar to). A LiPoly pack that can do that for an hour (with a suitable converter in between, I'm assuming ~80% efficiency) would need to be ~24Wh, for a 3-cell pack (nominal voltage 11.1V) this is ~2200mAh. Here is an example of a pack that can do that. The article also says they run it 5s on, 10s off, which would approximately triples that runtime to 3 hours (followed by ~4-5 hours charging, based on nearly identical packs I have for various things).


That said, the batteries shown in the article look more like a 2-cell pack of approximately 1100mAh (hard to guess though, since I can't see the pack fully), so they're either running much less power to the TECs than their upper limit, or they're not running it for very long (~1 hour).

So, it needs a decent sized battery, but if you only want to run it for a couple hours, it probably won't be too bad.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013I9RSEU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_LAA5C6AxbPVsZ

Ok here are some u/supernippers use.

They are probably better than the last ones I linked, they were like $18 when he bought em.

It seems that indeed we want to replicate the 'astronaut backpack' from your event company, though probably with a more Dr. Seus visual. Fortunately weight isn't much of an issue. We perform as a group so we can just rotate the backpack between performers. The "ideal" solution would be to use something like drill batteries so we could swap them out as needed. I really have no idea how much power a bubble machine would use relative to the energy stored in a car battery.

So to check if I'm reading this right

If we went with a SLA battery, which is a lot cheaper than a LiPo battery for the same amount of power, we'd need...

1. A SLA battery
   
2. An inverter that converts to 120v-60hz home voltage
   
3. The cabling between the battery and the inverter. This is the part I don't know how to do.
   
4. A battery charger for charging up the battery between gigs.
   
5. Additional: We'd probably need some sort of switch somewhere to turn the device on and off without unplugging it from the inverter.
   
   One other concern is that if the bubble machine is on a moving person, most bubble machines have a shallow resevoir and will slosh easily. How was the bubble astronaut setup?
   
   Edit: Also I'm trying to do electrical math for how long batteries last, and brain is melting a bit. So just using examples
   
   Bubble machine : http://amzn.com/B000LXTKMK
   Battery : http://amzn.com/B0072AEY5I
   
   The bubble machine draws 500 milliamps of power, which is .5 amp. The battery has 2200 mAh of power. So if I’m reading how it works correctly, it’s a matter of just dividing the milliamps of power into the mAh and you get about four hours of power. Is that right?
   
   

> Eachine Wizard x220

Tattu makes some good batteries, both 3s and 4s.
https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-11-1V-Airplane/dp/B013I9RLVK/ref=sr_1_6?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1495748569&sr=1-6&keywords=3s+lipo+battery

I have 3 Lumenier lipos and each one is great. Mine are 1850 3s, 2250 3s, and 2250 4s. For your size I wouldn't go past 1850 (and even that's a little long), they get pretty big and heavy after that. Worked good on my 280, but obviously that much bigger than a 220.

It should of came with one. Did you get the $200 one? Best bet would be Amazon 3 days.

(3 s)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013I9RLVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486858191&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3s+lipo+battery&psc=1]

(4s)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013I9RSEU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486858270&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4s+lipo+battery&dpPl=1&dpID=41BMq3RoUYL&ref=plSrch]

I would recommend wraith32 escs if you're going to spend that much money. They support a higher dshot and are rated for more amps.

https://www.fpvmodel.com/wraith32-32bit-35a-blheli_32-esc-dshot1200_g1271.html

You should get a Pagoda-2, it's designed to work with a case which protects the axial ratio of the antenna.

https://www.banggood.com/5_8-GHz-Pagoda-Omnidirectional-FPV-Flat-Panel-Antenna-LHCPRHCP-SMA-Male-p-1159835.html?rmmds=search

And lastly those batteries are good but they're cheaper on amazon

https://www.amazon.com/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-14-8V-Airplane/dp/B013I9T0T6

The Traxxas ID charger can charge normal Lipo batteries as well as the Traxxas ID batteries. On the front of the charger there should be a little plastic cover, pop that off and it has the balance leads for a 2 and 3 cell lipo. As long as your non Traxxas batteries have a Traxxas plug it'll charge normal lipos. As for recommendations i personally use this and have about 50 runs on it and it still performs great.

I basically have the same truck you are looking at. I have a slash ultimate and run gens ace batteries in it. Venom is also good. 3s 5000mAh 50c is about the max battery you can run stock so that's what I went with. Works good just need to watch temps and get a cooling fan.


[Good Battery I use](Gens ace 5000mAh 11.1V LiPo Battery Pack 3S 50C with XT60 and Deans Plug for Traxxas RC Cars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JCSOJIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_lGXTzb57JN7W7)

just so you know, this is the quality of an FPV camera and you will be getting breakup lines like this as bodies and stuff getting in the way will cause signal loss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nU96HLe-hcs

​

​

Here is stuff you can use from Amazon for the AIO Fpv Camera

​

https://www.amazon.com/Wolfwhoop-WT05-Transmitter-Antenna-Quadcopter/dp/B06XJMQQ6Y/

​

https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2

​

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Channel-Inductrix-Connectors/dp/B074M6G2MD

​

Here is how to hook it up to a battery https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOcxdVX6zYk

​

On the receving end, I assume you will then want to output to HDMI? The best/easiest way to do this is to buy two of these dock kings and hdmi adapters, one for each camera. If you have power nearby you can use a regular 5.5mm DC jack power adapter like for laptops. Or you can buy the battery packs for them. You will also want at least 2 antennas on each receiver, 1 omni and 1 patch antenna pointing in the direction of the actors

​

https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=669

​

https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?products_id=704

​

https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=687

​

https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-Antenna-Protective-Covering-Multicopter/dp/B01N9QM409

​

https://www.amazon.com/RCmall-Accuracy-Directional-Circularly-Polarized/dp/B0772WJB5R

​


You will have to learn/read instructions on how to set each camera and receiver to their matching frequency bands


​

​

Go for https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07CHMM252?aaxitk=XKE-2jiUWPpddvFZq6XLXw&pd_rd_i=B07CHMM252&pf_rd_p=731c2082-c3b6-4ec5-ba3b-337a0516607d&hsa_cr_id=1085279830701

The extra bit of cable is better suited for the Tinyhawk :)

I used this one in a build almost just like yours.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WHCQYXG/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1521156038&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gens+ace+25c+3s+lipo&dpPl=1&dpID=5118RTKVUBL&ref=plSrch
I did just find this one too for roughly the same price, but better
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WJN4LG0/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521156183&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gens+ace+25c+3s+lipo&psc=1

The thing is my project is going to be mobile, so I have to give it an external power source.

This is what I bought to power the whole thing, and I know I'm going to need some boot converters for this, as it looks like there's 4 pins I have to work with plugging in (like a red and 3 black) instead of two.

Yep. Gotta learn how to do that as well.

No idea how much they draw, but I'm using this 2200mAh 20C battery with no issues:

https://www.amazon.com/Turnigy-2200mAh-20C-Lipo-Pack/dp/B0072AEY5I/

Your diagram is exactly how I wired mine, only difference is I spliced together the negatives to save wire. Should be good to go.

I bought these ones and they've worked out really well. They are slightly thicker than the OEM ones, but I haven't had a problem getting them in or out. I agree capacity-wise they generally don't provide much more flight time than OEM, but I've found I get significantly more time if I charge and then immediately use. Even charging in the morning for evening flying seems not quite as long. It's not just the aftermarket ones either.

I need an 11.1v lipo that will fit in my crane stock, and I hear that the side tubes in those stocks only accommodate for 9.6v batteries, and that 11.1v nunchucks will stick out the butt plate. I found this lipo, its rc spec and should be the right size to fit in the space in between the two tubes in my crane stock. Can anyone offer advice? Thanks!: https://www.amazon.com/Gens-ace-Battery-2200mAh-Airplane/dp/B00WJN4LG0/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_21_bs_lp_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=FPZ0KEZ1JZ9ETRYRB9X6

Yes, I believe it was 3m to 1f xt60 connectors. I soldered 12 AWG wires to these connectors and effectively ended up with a 10s6p battery. The biggest difference besides range is that I can ride longer before the speed drops from voltage sag. The additional weight lets me lean more when I'm carving.

Don't forget the extra bits and pieces like wires and heatshrink. For batteries I would suggest these (my link) instead. You will very quickly outgrow the 3S packs. Worth picking up a few batteries, otherwise you'll only have 5mins at a time. Also, the batteries you've chosen do not match the XT-60 connectors you've bought separately.

Charger is ok and is what I started with too, I would recommend picking up a parallel charging board too, so you don't have to wait as long/swap batteries while charging.

I'd recommend this frame it's a few $ more, but is very sturdy and spares are readily available because of how many people use it.

That print does look rather large to me though. Lets assume it took 20h. I've assumed an average power consumption of 62 W [1].

Thus, the total print would require 1240 Wh.

The most commonly sold RC battery on amazon.com offers 2200mAh at 11,1V which equals to 24,42 Wh per battery. [2] I'm pretty sure you can run a printer on 11,1V without a step-up converter. You would need 50 of those, and that is not going to fit the box that he packed at 0:23.



[1] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cR1IvZCZo5U
[2] http://www.amazon.com/Turnigy-2200mAh-20C-Lipo-Pack/dp/B0072AEY5I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458235448&sr=8-3&keywords=lipo+battery+3s

Yep, the real thing packaged in a factory box. It does not come with a battery though. I recommend the tenergy 380's on Amazon http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HS5Y6G4/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1421780800&sr=1&keywords=tenergy. Also spend $7 on a 4 port charger: http://www.amazon.com/ThinkMax%C2%AE-In-Battery-Charger-Hubsan/dp/B00LGWQ4FG/ref=pd_bxgy_t_img_y

It depends on the physical size of the battery, and connector. If you have a deans connector you need a deans connector, unless your good at soldering and can replace one yourself.

I purchased these, and would recommend them to anyone with a 1:10 size truck.

when I'm at the track doing practice laps, i can run for around an hour to an hour and a half per battery.

I would replace the VTX you chose for the tx526 as you can change it's output power and it isn't as massive as the ts832 (you will most likely run into problems mounting it in the martian 220).

Like another commenter said, you should buy bigger motors, maybe rs2205s I can vouch that the rs2205s are practically indestructible and run very very smooth.

You should get 4s batteries, I use tattu 4s 1300mah 75c batteries on my martian 220 with rs2205s motors and just this week I got a shipment of cnhl Lipos.

You should get VR-D2 Pros goggles, they are much better bang for buck, diversity+dvr for 90$.

I use this cheap lipo from amazon: Venom 30C 2S 1500mAh 7.4v LiPo Battery Pack for Airsoft Gun AEG with Mini Tamiya https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008XQDC6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_buEQBbGV87D3N

And i use this cheap scope mount: CYMA Metal Sight Support Weaver Rail for AEG GBB AK Airsoft – Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XD4YRG4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9uEQBbMDVDMF0

Fortunately, theyre both cheap only in price. Theyre both very good quality.

Start by getting a line-of-sight drone and see if you like it first.

hubsan x4 (comes with a controller)

batteries

charger

prop guards+props

$55 to see if you like it.

When you break that, try repairing it. If you don't like that, then the hobby may not be for you.

there actually lighter than the stock 450 mah emax packs.. around 14 grams.. i think the emax pack was like 15 grams..

i get about 2 minutes with the 450 mah packs. i can only charge to 4.20v per cell tho i dont have a HV charger..

these are what i got. https://www.amazon.com/Battery-PowerWhoop-Connector-Rechargeable-Inductrix/dp/B07CHMM252/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=tinyhawk+600+mah+battery&qid=1567634624&s=gateway&sr=8-1

you can also see a few of my flights that i posted on here where i get like 2.5 or 3 min of flight time.. when i land at 3.2v and put them on the batter checker they bounce back up to about 3.7 or 3.8 v..

Thanks a lot. I was trying to do some research before posting and I guess I was looking at old information. how do these changes look?

Chassis: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Yokomo-1-10-RC-RWD-DRIFT-CHASSIS-YD-2S-Rear-Wheel-Drive-Drift-KIT-DP-YD2S/202804677855?hash=item2f3819ccdf:g:ExQAAOSwCMRczQcp

Motor + ESC: http://www.rcmart.com/hobbywing-quicrun-3650sd-135t-brushless-sensored-motor-wonisiki-hell-blaze-p-70973.html?cPath=1560_1301

Battery: https://www.amazon.ca/Gens-ace-Battery-HardCase-Approved/dp/B00WOAWHUK

Charger: https://www.amazon.ca/Meiyiu-Battery-Charger-Digital-Discharger/dp/B07NW99VLM/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=7.4V+2s+lipo+charger&qid=1571863442&sr=8-16

servo: https://www.ebay.com/c/1752440977

Gyro: https://www.ebay.com/itm/YOKDPP-302V4-Yokomo-DP-302-V4-Drift-Steering-Gyro-/123636436439

I think the stock X4 comes with a 280 mah battery but I read that the 380's were a good compromise of performance and flight time. I'm going to go with these from Amazon.

• Turnigy 9X
  
• transmitter pack
  
• backlight kit
  
• USBasp
  
• Extra reciever
  
• servos
  
• Gorilla Glue
  
• lipo checker
  
• motor/esc combo
  
• lipo charger
  
• airplane lipo
  
  You'll also need some Dollar tree foam, some music wire, clear tape, razor blades, ect. That setup will get you started with tons of room to grow. The one transmitter will handle 8 planes at least.

Some really popular LiPos that a lot of the pilots use are:

Tattu 4S 1300mAh 75C

Lumenier 4S 1300mAh 60C

Thunder Power Adrenaline 1300mAh 4S 80C

1300mAh 75C and 1550 mAh 75C. This is my first build and my FC is about a month out so I couldn't tell you how they fly, but the reviews are decent and they're an okay price, even with the Amazon Tax.

DEFINITELY. This battery will last you about 30 mins and will make your truck fly like a rocket. Source: Have a 4WD Stampede and 2 of those batteries.

It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!


Here is link number 1 - Previous text "3s"

Here is link number 2 - Previous text "2s"



----
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete

I live in Canada also :P
That's still cheaper though, I'll keep that in mind for next time. Thanks.
https://www.amazon.ca/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-14-8V-Airplane/dp/B013I9T0T6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505498334&sr=8-1&keywords=tattu

Correct, I bought this 3s battery and this 2s battery for my Rustler VXL. I had to modify the battery compartment and 3d print a couple spacers to get them both to fit properly.

So as to where to get stuff... this will get you started if you haven't already.

• S550 Frame - http://multirotormania.com/hexacopter/682-thunder-s550-hexacopter-kit-by-sk.html
  
• fast local US shipping
  
• DJI E310 power system - https://store.dji.com/product/e310-6
  
• The only place to reliably get the E310 power packs. They are that new.
  
• DJI Naza-M Lite with GPS - http://www.getfpv.com/dji-naza-m-lite-flight-controller-with-gps-compass.html
  
• Local US shipping
  
• Turnigy 9X with reciever - http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8992
  
• China, so you'll need an express shipping method to reliably get it here in time.
  
• Highend alternative (you'll want Mode 2) - http://www.banggood.com/FrSky-2_4G-ACCST-Taranis-X9D-Plus-Transmitter-p-940819.html
  
• Cheap 2-Axis Gimbal - http://www.amazon.com/Brushless-Gimbal-Camera-Phantom-Walkera/dp/B00GAXYJFS/
  
• Balance Charger - Highend with Internal AC adapter or Generic Slow charger
  
  I'll have more time in the week to finish out the part list including some misc components you'll need like batteries, battery straps, and battery non-spark battery connections.

I spent about $150 dollars, and got everything from Amazon.

3S 4S Lipo Battery Charger, HOTRC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QV1ZM1N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Tattu 14.8V 1300mAh LiPo Battery... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013I9RSEU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

SKYRC SK-600092-01 4.3” FPV... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMHS9W6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Spotter V2 Micro FPV AIO Camera... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078PK98HC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Grifiti Nootle Recon 5 Flex Arm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KJL39QK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

SMALLRIG 30mm Diameter 1/4"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081D1YGC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

PFG 135 Frame from RC-Drones

AlienWii FC from Micro Motor Warehouse

8.5mm Dark Edition motors from Micro Motor Warehouse

SPMVA1100 All in One Camera and video transmitter

Parrot Rolling Spider Props for added lift

Lectron Pro battery to power the camera

Turnigy Nano-Tech 750mAh with 35C-70C to power the FC and make sure the DE motors get the proper amount of juice they deserve

OrangeRx R100 reciever

Thanks again Spark_Tek. I am thinking the Senton is the way to go. Would this charger and battery work well with it? And would I need any other type of connector, concerns about ESP etc.

Also, after researching a bit, some ESP's detect low voltage and that is really important it seems with LiPo. Does the included ESP do a shutoff? The alarm things that get squished in don't appear robust.

iMAX B6AC Version 2 Digital LiPo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZGZZ40K
Gens ace 7.4V 5000mAh 50C 2S LiPo Battery Pack
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WOAWHUK

https://www.amazon.ca/Tattu-Battery-1300mAh-14-8V-Airplane/dp/B013I9T0T6
Would recommend these.

Which batteries did you get? I like the TEnergy Batteries:

http://www.amazon.com/Combo-Tenergy-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter/dp/B00HS5Y6G4

As opposed to these I found on banggood:

http://m.banggood.com/5-X-Upgrade-25C-3_7V-380MAH-Battery-For-Hubsan-X4-QR-Ladybird-p-69895.html

something like theses if you have the money

I used this battery for my v2


http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-1000mAh-Li-Po-Airsoft-Battery/dp/B009B1FQA8/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422295237&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=tenergy+7.4+small+type


It fits really nicely and has plenty of room to spare


1000mah wasn't enough for me though so I bought a Venom 1500mah which fits (It takes up almost 99% of the space and had just enough room for a lipo alarm), but I needed to fiddle around with the wiring a bit before being able to get the body pin through to lock in the stock cover.

http://www.amazon.com/Venom-1500mAh-Battery-Airsoft-Tamiya/dp/B008XQDC6W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422295369&sr=8-1&keywords=venom+1500+mah&pebp=1422295371245&peasin=B008XQDC6W

amazon will do it, and you don't even have to say please.

I'll ship one to you, $8 + shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/Gens-ace-Battery-2200mAh-Airplane/dp/B00WJN4LG0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511932976&sr=8-1&keywords=11.1+volt+battery

or

https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-2200mah-3s-20c-lipo-pack.html?___store=en_us

Would 4 of these work? And can you explain the discharge? Do you mean once the battery reaches 80/100, I shouldn't drain it any further?

Ah, damn. Yea. It's not terribly difficult to solder, but you do need to be careful that you don't short the battery.

Uh can get all the soldering equipment you need for under $50.

Otherwise, venom makes a decent battery too: https://www.amazon.com/Venom-5000mAh-Battery-Universal-Traxxas/dp/B000VUF3O2

And it has adaptors to deans so no soldering needed.

There's a couple type of batteries around, NiCd, NiMH, and LiPo. Go with LiPo. It's the newest of the battery techs, has wide adoption throughout the hobby, and has longer and more consistent run times. Here's a picture of LiPo batteries next to a NiCd. Also, get a charger that balances.

LiPo batteries come in all shapes and sizes, but for the Brat you'll need a 2S LiPo battery. 2S means 2 cells. These usually come in a hard plastic case, which I recommend since the battery will hang under the truck. It's a very standard size, so you'll have no trouble finding one. What isn't standard though is where the wires come out. I've got 2 types, but found that with the way the pack fits in the Brat, one works and the other just doesn't fit at all.

The problem I ran into with the LiPo hard case is that the overall length of the battery is just a smudge too long to fit between the side retainers. The easiest fix is to put a couple of washers between the retainer and the chassis, but I didn't think of that and took the Dremel to the retainer instead.

The speed controller that Tamiya gives you has their standard type connector, so when you get a battery you will want to make sure it has this connector or an adapter for it. In the past, the Tamiya connectors would get very hot, so be careful disconnecting after a run. If you get more serious about the hobby, you'll be switching to a different connector that made for high currents.

There is a battery that may work with no modification as it's made for Tamiya vehicles, but I have't used it so I really don't know. The wires stick out the end, so I worry about that a little, but it might work.

Hope this helps.

same thing was happening to me when I got my whoop, I was using those square batteries that come with the E010 and a single tiny whoop official stick battery(i've never charged to HV bc I don't feel like i need to)
my whoop would fall after a few seconds with the E010 batts but not with the good one.
Try some crazepony batteries off of amazon, they even come with an extended cable to solder on
https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1523912747&sr=8-3&keywords=crazepony

So would this work?

or these https://www.amazon.ca/Tenergy-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter-Walkera/dp/B00HS5Y6G4/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys&ie=UTF8&qid=1464649834&sr=1-1&keywords=380+mAh

They're usually for the Hubsan X4. Saw it at Radio Shack with the same connector.

http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter-Walkera/dp/B00HS5Y6G4

I use both chargers, since I'm recording pre-charge and post-charge voltage, I charge batteries in different slots on the chargers to see if the issue is the battery, or the charger.

Currently I have the two stock batteries 3.7V 350mAH and five new batteries [3.7V 380mAh] (http://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00HS5Y6G4).

Gens Ace

Tattu

https://www.amazon.com/Turnigy-2200mAh-20C-Lipo-Pack/dp/B0072AEY5I/

Here's one for fairly cheap. From HobbyKing.

https://www.amazon.com/Gens-ace-Battery-2200mAh-Airplane/dp/B00WJN4LG0/

Here's a GenAce battery that works too.

[4 batteries and one JST-PH 2.0 connector] (https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1499974130&sr=8-1&keywords=power+whoop+battery)

My battery is a gens 11.1v rechargeable battery

it's in serie. Do you mean one of this? https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Battery-Balancer-Charger-7-4-11-1V/dp/B00CF93RF4

I was looking for a 4S with a high discharge rating, ordered 6 of these this morning. Tattu LiPo Battery Pack 1300mAh 75C 4S

Gen 8 in transit to me but I went ahead and ordered this Gens ace 7.4V 5000mAh 50C 2S LiPo Battery Pack HardCase and budget charger Lipo Battery Balance Charger Touch Screen Duo Discharger Dual Ac150w DC240W

Check out Gens Ace.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WOAWHUK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492268944&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gens+ace+lipo&dpPl=1&dpID=41r0nHzSG-L&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BZG33PG/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A385B2OBZAJZO4

and

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072AEY5I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3AR95NHANJAX6

Which battery/charger would you get?

No problem, I ended up getting a JST-PH 2.0 plug for my Tiny6. Downside is you need new batteries unless you want to do some sketchy soldering.

These have been great though, plenty of power, and comes with the plug upgrade: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N0Z0ME2/

I should be getting http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XHS4BKM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01 tomorrow, but the batteries I ordered were out of stock until the weekend, so they won't be coming in until next week http://www.amazon.com/Tenergy-Battery-Channel-QuadCopter-Walkera/dp/B00HS5Y6G4/ref=pd_bxgy_21_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0JAY6NC0TAPFCTAF2GMD

Edit: Just noticed you have the x5sc which doesn't look like this particular charger would work for either...

Nah you want a minimum 50C constant, 50C burst is too low.

https://smile.amazon.com/1300mAh-Battery-Airplane-Skylark-Nighthawk/dp/B013I9T0T6/

or

https://smile.amazon.com/1300mAh-Battery-Nemesis-Skylark-Nighthawk/dp/B01N9H2I19/

Google the props, they are everywhere. I get the 5X sets. I hate waiting on parts so I order from the states.

This is the last set of batts I bought. They are working out very well.

Man, you don’t fly much RC do you. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013I9T0T6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_7BnUBbJP8FSQT RC lipo packs are literally multiple pouch cells glued together, leads soldered to the end tabs. Definitely no circuits of any kind, and no hard case.

Ive flown well over a thousand hours of RC, built quite a large number of fixed wing and multirotor UAVs for fun, and I’ve worked on multiple large electric aircraft in my career. I am speaking from experience.

The bottom line is that SUAS / manned aircraft collisions are going to do a substantial amount of damage, as this study and others that test ingestion into turbofans (for example) demonstrate. But it’s silly to think of SUAS batteries as a bomb that will inevitably go off and start a fire. It’s possible, just like Jet-A fires are possible, under the right circumstances.