(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best rc vehicle parts

For being tipsy and full of turkey, you didn't do too bad on those purchases! The 65S Lite and the 800D are both good products for the price. The Beta65S Lite is also a really good flying Whoop out of the box, and can rip when you upgrade the firmware down the line.

The 65S comes with the "stock" version of Silverware. Eventually, you want to upgrade that Beta65S Lite to NFE Silverware. Do that that, you need an STLINK programming tool. Personally, if you've never flown before, I'd wait on doing the upgrade though. NFE Silverware rocks, but it's pretty aggressive. The default Silverware on the 65S Lite is better tuned for a beginner. If you want to program the board, just look at the YouTube video on flashing the 65S Lite to NFE Silverware - it goes through all the steps. The programming pads are tiny, so I ended up just stealing some leftover legs from resistors and shoving those in the pads and then into the connector to the programmer. It wasn't pretty, but it worked.

You definitely want a good radio - the QX7 is probably the better option. They're more expensive on Amazon than through another retailer. I like RaceDayQuads as the prices are good and the shipping is very fast. For the Bayang protocol, you just need a cheap multiprotocol module. The iRange is very good, but expensive. Personally, this cheap one works just fine even though it's fairly short range. BETAFPV has a slightly cheaper and much longer range one, but it can potentially bend the pins on your radio, so I don't really recommend it until that gets fixed. Figure spending about $150 for your radio gear, more if you get a better battery for your radio. (It comes with an attachment for AAs, but it will eat those batteries annoyingly quick.)

The 300mAh battery should work on the 65S Lite - although they are REALLY fast the first 30 seconds or so. I like them, but they might be a bit much for a beginner.

For a charger, there's a bunch of 1S battery chargers out there, most of which are the same design. You also need some power supply to it, but those are super cheap.

For batteries, there are plenty of options. I fly BETAFPV 260mAh for my primary battery, mainly because they come in packs of 8. The 300mAh ones give very long flight times, but they are pretty aggressive. GNB batteries are some of the best, but they are physically longer than other batteries. Crazepony 260 HV batteries are cheap and work well enough. Just remember that you need the PH2.0/PowerWhoop connector instead of the smaller JST 1.25 connector.

For the VTX, you can either keep that as a spare, or mount that to your truck. I doubt it has the right connection to plug right into your whoop batteries, but you can get a PH2.0 pigtail and solder that on to the camera power wires. That will let you connect right to your main flight batteries.

​

So a Tiny Whoop is a 66mm quad thats not really designed for outdoors. Its VERY VERY small - no more than 2-3mph of wind. You could get one with camera, upgraded motors and a controller for < $120, easily. I have one and love it for bashing around my house or office - its really not for a large outdoor space, but is a ton of fun indoors.

The atom is a full on brushless quad, writ small. You can either build it yourself for around $300, or buy ones built for $320 from Helipal (hint, its a tough build, and if its your first you might not want to build it). While people do fly them inside, it doesn't have protected props or anything and its very powerful, so it might not be good for indoors until you get very good or have a very large (like gym sized) space. I have one and even with the lower power 1104 motors I wouldn't fly it inside. If you want a brushless indoor quad, the Lady Owl might be a better choice given its a similar size and integrated prop protection. You could build a lady owl for about the same price ($320). A 610mah 3S battery should get you 7+ mins.

As for radio. For a Tiny Whoop you need a spektrum compatible radio, so you can do a small cheap MLP4DSM for $40, or you can move up to the Devo series (The 7e is popular). You could move all the way up to the Taranis X9D and add an OrangeTx modules (make sure to get version 1.2) and control anything Spektrum and anything FrSky from 1 radio. I currently run the very similar 9XR Pro radio with Orange and XJT modules. The 9XR Pro is $70, plus $35 for a XJT module and $35 for an OrangeTX module.


For a receiver - there's one builtin into the Inductrix, so no need there. For a small build like the Atom or Lady Owl, you'll want a smaller SBUS-based receiver like the FrSky X4R-SB or the XSR. They use a better protocol for communication and respond faster, and are only about $10 more than the D4R-II - about $35.

Goggles: I've had Teleporters (terrible), Attitudes (acceptable), have used Dom HDs and Dom V3s (very nice, but not worth the Money IMO) and currently run the Skyzone Sky02 v3, which have been my favorite. Diversity antennas, 40ch, builtin DVR and about $360.


Given your budget, I'd get both if you have that 10k sq foot space.

Get the inductrix, camera, motors and batteries for about $100 all in.
Get the atom pre built (or build yourself) for about $340.
Get the taranis and orange module for about $280
Get fat sharks or sky's for $300-$500.

All told $1000-1200

Great work!

I do agree, that the 'multi arm' approach is the way to go (EDIT: triple arm minimum, as I just did some testing and with only two arms there is really no way to effectively stabilize 'anything' that you are holding as the item tends to easily rotate out of control), unless you have access to a 3d printer and effectively free filament, etc.

The geared linear approach was done as a 'cheapest' first attempt to duplicate TempestVR's and tomotomox's work in linking a robot directly to VAM. After having done that, and then done the tcp/ip connection, I moved directly now to the multiple servo/axis approach. It is funny how much less printing will be required, lol.

Also, in ref to the geared linear approach, I was working on modifying the gear for the 20kg amazon servo I had bought DS3218MG ( https://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Waterproof-DS3218MG-Control/dp/B076CNKQX4) as seen here ( https://imgur.com/a/OMaqHPL ), and per the dimensions in the images for the servo, the arm has a stated furthest hole of 23.5mm, turns out I had to do a few prints of test gears as the hole was actually at 24.5mm! Not to mention, where the central 'hub' is, it is different from the MG995R, so, that then now threw off the 'gearing' being properly mated and so then there is play between the rack and pinion, lol! With a multiple servo/axis setup, that wouldn't be an issue at all! The only alignment issues are effectively those due to the proper synchronized control of the 2+ servos.

I looked into using the ram mount too, and like it, but I think I'm going to go with this https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Monitor-Adjustable-Articulating-STAND-V001/dp/B00B21TLQU/ , it is meant for holding up 22 pound monitors, so I think it shouldn't oscillate too much while the robot is in motion. In addition it can be mounted to a desk, to the side of a bed, and has a nice long articulating arm and 75 and 100mm VESA mounts which will be easy to 3d print something to attach to. A non-clamped version that you could 'sit around' is here https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Computer-Free-Standing-Adjustable-STAND-V001H/dp/B01FE2BCR8/

So at this point, I'm currently printing the housing for the new multi axis robot for testing, it will be a 3-4 servo setup in the end, might have a few variants. Going to be using an adafruit servo hat https://www.amazon.com/2327-Raspberry-Servo-Development-Board/dp/B00SI1SPHS/ and a raspberry pi and the tcp/ip VAM connection.

Lastly, once I get the multiple axis setup, I will then move to the code/algorithms such that there can be a seemless transition from the VAM 'movements' to the new robot(s) based on it's features. The idea is to make all this as seemless and easy as possible for anyone to do themselves.

And all thanks to TempestVR for all his contributions, without him I wouldn't have done any of this!

Those batteries are a little chunky for a 250. I have some and they are slightly bigger and heavier than my 2200mAh zippy compact but I like to fly 1500 zippy the best on mine. I got the 2206 motors on my h250cf 3k pro and just added 20a esc and 6040 props to it last night. It's a beast! I use that same charger and it's great. I say go with the 99$ kit h250cf pro kit.
I would also not recommended the flysky fs-t6 I was seeing brown outs with it and left negative review on Amazon for the product. I now use a taranis and it really is amazing! Here is my speed run this weekend. I need to tilt my fpv camera so I can go faster and see where I'm going. This isn't all she has by any means. This was warm up before I went tree cruising
RCX H250CF 3K Pro 3/1/15: http://youtu.be/p6pV1zKdQTw

>Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

>I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

>This is the charger

>And I'm considering a few of these batteries

Tattus are really nice, but they can be pricey, graphenes work really well, and nano techs aren't bad either, Nanotechs are a little cheaper than the Tattu and Graphenes, any of them would be a good choice, I do think that Tattu would be pretty durable, as well as the graphenes, they both seem to have some protection measures built in such as the steel plates in the Tattus
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005MW0WZO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462293523&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=4+channel+lipo+rc+charger&dpPl=1&dpID=51u7%2Bki0NRL&ref=plSrch

That's the charger I use, however I think there's a 1 channel version if you don't need 4, it does a good job though and will automatically trickle charge(it basically drops the amps when the battery gets closer to full, pretty standard thing for lipos, you can fast charge if needed) and balance well

Also have you already built it ? I run raceflight and it's a night and day difference you may want to look into getting a CC3D revo to do raceflight

Seems like everyone is assuming he wants a kit and to build it himself, but I don't see that you said that. So, is that the case?

Will this be his first multicopter? If so, I would recommend something that is ready to fly (RTF) right out of the box. There are lots of good options, but I really enjoy my Hubsan x4 simply because how easy it is to get replacement parts. The price and reliability are nice as well ;)

You can put him together a nice "kit" with a hard case, spare parts, extra batteries for about $175 $135 on Amazon. It will be RTF, but also give him room to learn about the platform and repair mistakes.

EDIT: Actually a little cheaper... if he has not flow before, this is a fun, cheap christmas present.

Complete Starter Kit for Hubsan x4 | ------------
---|---
Hubsan H107C | $54.00 |
Carrying Case | $24.99 |
Crash Kit | $17.50 |
5 Extra Batteries | $18.39 |
Battery Charger | $6.36 |
Prop Guard | $2.73 |
------------|------------
Total | $123.97

Congrats on the new toy. Looks like a decent power system (Mamba Monster/Castle motor) I agree with the 4S for starters to help learn control.

The challenge is the ESC is wired with a single battery lead (looks like a Traxxas plug going into a XT60 adapter), so the previous owner must have run a single battery. 4S batteries can be more expensive than two 2S, for example from Amazon right now:

• Gens ace 7.4V 2S 5000mAh 50C hardcase are $37/each x 2 = $74
  
• Gens ace 14.8V 4S 5000mAh 50C hardcase are $86/each
  
  Plus you'll get half the run time with a single 4S battery (5000mAh) versus two 2S (2 x 5000mAh = 10000mAh).
  (Note: I'm not recommending Gens Ace brand as I don't have any experience with it, it is only for example purposes)
  
  
  Any chance you have a buddy that can solder? If not you might be able to find an adapter but most are made with thin wire (thinner than the wire on your ESC) that won't support the current draw of the Mamba ESC. Some of my local hobby stores (LHS) will solder a connection if you buy the parts/battery there. You might check your LHS for help, and it is always good to make friends that know more than you about the hobby!
  
  Enjoy!

Brushless setups run so much cooler and they don't have the brushes that generate more friction, or pop off the commutator on a hard landing. They are a little more expensive because you will need to upgrade your ESC to do it, but it is well worth the extra expense. I purchased this kit based on a lot of great reviews and recommendations, and I am very happy with it, it accepts up to a 3S, and runs incredibly well.

https://www.amazon.com/Castle-Creations-Sidewinder-Waterproof-NC1406-5700KV/dp/B00AQYMNE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494174438&sr=8-1&keywords=castle+sidewinder+3

This one has a 5700kV rating. The Castle Sidewinder is sold in several configurations, I have the 3800kV one on my 1/10.

Maybe check out reviews I don't know from experience but Betafpv recently released this Seems like a decent idea, since it's frsky protocol. It's cheap and not going to be a great device compared to a proper transmitter. But 3 for the price of one proper radio is pretty good, and more quads in the air is a good thing.

What do you want to do with it? You going to fool around a couple times or do you really want to have fun with it?
I regularly recommend cheap electronics from Amazon.

With this stuff you'll be ripping around about 40mph for 30 minutes per charge. You'll want new wheels and tires before long.

Brushless combo: $43
GoolRC 3650 3100KV/4P Sensorless Brushless Motor with 60A Brushless ESC（Electric Speed Controller）for 1/10 RC Car Truck https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CCRZD1Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4zsqzbNCY5N14

Transmitter and Receiver: $42
FLYSKY RC 3 CH Transmitter TX FS-GT3B For CAR Boat 2.4Ghz 2.4g w/ Receiver https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HNJNXVY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bBsqzbMWJ5NMH

LiPo Charger: $63
Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6AC V2 Dual Power (6Amps,50Watts) LiPo,LiHV,LiIon,LiFe,NiCd,NiMH,Pb Lead Acid AC/DC Professional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Discharger (Version 2) w/ Micro USB Port https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017Y2G4Y2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pCsqzbSQ5PAK1

Lipo Battery: $34
Gens ace LiPo Battery Pack 5000mAh 50C 2S 7.4V HardCase 21 with Deans T Plug for RC Car Boat Truck Roar Approved https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WOAWHUK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_XDsqzbQDQW2BC

LiPo Safe Bag: $8
Teenitor Fireproof Explosionproof Lipo Battery Safe Bag Lipo Battery Guard Safe Bag Pouch Sack for Charge & Storage 185x75x60mm Large size https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00T01LLP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_HEsqzbS0EWKZZ

Hey, another Canadian made basically the same question once before, here's my guide to a quick start on R/C drifting with a Tamiya TT-02D:

For 400 you can get a kit like a Tamiya TT-02D and all you need to get driving with it. The advantage of the TT-02 chassis is it has cheap and widely available spare parts, and it comes not only as a drifting chassis. The -D spec has motor cooling and slippery drifting tires included, but if you mount ordinary sticky rubber tires on it, it will work just fine as a racer too (I do that myself).

What you'll need:

-Basic tools to assemble the kit such as phillips head screwdrivers, allen keys etc.

-https://www.amazon.ca/58605-Nismo-Z-Tune-TT02D-Drift/dp/B00T2DKL5K/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys&ie=UTF8&qid=1513262988&sr=1-2&keywords=tt02d+kit Car kit - there are other bodies available in the starter kit, but make sure you get a kit that actually includes a body!

-https://www.amazon.com/FLYSKY-Transmitter-FS-GT3B-2-4Ghz-Receiver/dp/B00HNJNXVY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1511338151&sr=8-1&keywords=flysky+gt3b transmitter and receiver set

Battery pack and charger set: https://www.amazon.com/3800mAh-rechargeable-battery-Tamiya-Charger/dp/B01HDKBRKG/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1511341916&sr=8-14&keywords=7.2+nimh+battery+and+charger

-metal gear servo for the steering: https://www.amazon.ca/ANNIMOS-Digital-Torque-Servo-Waterproof/dp/B0769DFJVK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1513263076&sr=8-7&keywords=metal+gear+servo

-Some lexan paint for the body in your colour of choice - I recommend Tamiya PS-colour

The total for all this is about 335 CAD if I'm not mistaken - and it is just about the cheapest option, I really spent a lot of time working out how to try out R/C drifting cheaply when I bought mine. You can get additional wheel sets and such from China on ebay very cheaply.

EDIT: The Amazon links are a reference just to show it can be done - you should probably take a look at some R/C dealers instead since they'll have all the things you might need later on and you'll know they can deliver :) Here in Europe I shop in 4 different countries to get the things I actually want...

The charge time really isn't all that bad. It'll charge back up in 10-15 minutes. I really thought it'd bother me but I'm totally okay with it. This is the perfect starter copter to learn how to fly these things.

If it's really a deal breaker and you're okay with spending more, one of the cheapest way you're going to get significantly improved flight time would probably be a Hubsan X4, a 5 pack of batteries, a simple charger, and a prop guard for about $70 before tax.

I'd call that step 2 in the hobby though and would absolutely recommend the Cheerson CX-10 as step 1.

If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):

ISDT Charger

12v Power Supply

Balance Charger

To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.

With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here


Voltmeter

Power plug

I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.

Wow, this is great timing. I wasn't aware of this thread, but could certainly use some tech help regarding batteries/chargers. I recently bought a ISDT SC-608 LiPo smart charger. I bought a power supply off Amazon that had an XT-60 adapter and made an adapter to go from my Valken 7.4v 1300 maH batteries mini-tamiya to XT-60. Today however I received my power supply and plugged it into the wall. Its red light went on and I plugged it into my 608. The 608 turned on for a moment, then off again. The power supply light turned off and now just makes a high pitched noise. It seems that the power supply is broken, but I leave tomorrow afternoon and need a power supply for my charger. I was wondering if I could take a Lenovo laptop AC to DC cable, cut the Lenovo end off and solder on a XT-60 connector and it would work. The Lenovo charger is 20V 3.25 Amp (65 W?) and my charger can take 150W and 9V - 32V so I think it could work, but I dont want to break anything.

Broken power supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XQW36BL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JZJ4BbPT3YZJJ

608 charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072PRF3ND/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_I0J4Bb7MWRV4N

Valken 7.4v Lipo 1300 maH battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TS7KONE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_l1J4BbD71A2HZ

The Lenovo power supply is just one I found at goodwill

I hope this was enough information and I appreciate any help you can give.

Edit: The battery is for a CM16 AEG, so I posted this here. Besides, I cant really find a subreddit more active than this that it would be relevant in.

Just about.

As the others are saying, get some foam board and build a Flite Test Tiny Trainer from the free plans. You can build this as a glider and throw it around until you're confident with the controls, then add a motor to make a trainer - and then build the 'sport' wing and upgrade the battery to make it aerobatic.

Others are recommending the FS-i6 transmitter, which is a good choice as it'll be good when you get a few more models - but you can go a little cheaper if you don't mind only having one model. $32. If you stay in the hobby you'll definitely want something better before long though - but if you get serious you might want something even better than the i6. After a few years most people are using transmitters in the $100-$300 range.

Here's a 1806 motor $9

Here's a 12amp ESC with a BEC $7 - many quadcopter ESCs don't have a BEC, which you need to power your servos.

Here's a pack of 5 servos for $11 so you have a spare

Two 2s 800mAh batteries for $20

Here's a $11 charger - this is another item you'll want to upgrade if you get into the hobby, so you can charge bigger batteries, or several at once.

4 props for a $1

That's $91, leaving you a bit for foam board, hot glue, music wire (for push rods) and postage.

These links are for reference - I've not tried this exact stuff, but it matches the requirements of the plane. With a bit of hunting you might find the same things even cheaper - especially as I ignored the postage.

Ideal is 30k - 50k wt not 30-50 wt

It will work but you need something much thicker. This is shock oil. You want differential oil which is just really thick shock oil. 900 CST = ~67 wt and ideal is 30k to 50k wt (apparently ~1250461 to ~2291130 cst (accidentally said wt instead of cst) ).

I think if you get this, it will either be like water and do nothing to the cube or basically be like maru lube that lasts longer which can be a good thing (maru lube makes cubes super fast but doesn't last very long).

Your mob7 came with either a single connection usb charger or a 6 connection charger board that will need either a DC power supply (5.5mm barrel plug, probably... ) or an xt60 connection (larger battery or a modified DC power supply). Your best bet will be to look for similar 1s lipo charger boards online that come with the DC power supply in order to see what you need to get.

The M8 will only be able to charge 1s lipos with a special wire harness, which you would find searching for "1s parallel charging cable". Parallel charging is not simple and can be dangerous, though. I don't suggest it when you already have a capable charger.

Looking forward, the M8 will also need a DC psu with xt60 for input, and can only charge a single xt60 battery by default, so you would need a parallel board and/or adapters for more xt60 packs or xt30 charging.

Edit: This listing on amazon should look like your charger or you should consider getting something like it for your 1s charging. It has a picture with possible input options (battery, DC psu, DC psu with xt60). The answers section suggests a 5.5mm barrel plug, probably a 12v/3A supply should be purchased. You might have a suitable psu around the house already for smaller laptops or electronics like a router or modem. Other listings might come with a psu for a higher price.

Credit goes to my wife and her friend for the decoration. That was all faux fur from JoAnn's Fabric and acrylic paint. I did the frame and robot stuff :) I had to do a lot of work on the joints because they did not bend. I wanted it lower to the ground so the tail did not have to be so long and to give it a better look and more stability.

Dog skeleton (on sale right now for 10 bucks!):
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Home-Accents-Holiday-3-ft-Animated-Skeleton-Greyhound-with-LED-Illuminated-Eyes-6342-36559/206770838

Servos:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076CNKQX4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hardware:
Raspberry Pi 3 B+

Servo control: Adafruit 16-Channel PWM / Servo HAT (https://www.adafruit.com/product/2327)

UI: Adafruit OLED Bonnet (https://www.adafruit.com/product/3531)

I was able to stack both the servo control board and OLED Bonnet on the Pi. I love this OLED Bonnet because it has a joystick and buttons so it provides a mini UI. I wrote a menu program for the Bonnet that loads on boot and lets me start the program for the tail and do an orderly shutdown.

Thank you for the advice! I am just using Eachine EV800 goggles with the Eachine ProDVR and this VTX. So while having nice DVR footage would be ideal, right now I'm just playing the budget game and making the best I can with this :) Sorry if the choppiness and all is an issue

Thank you for all that! That was a useful YouTube video, too.

I had to make the purchases yesterday, since I'll be playing with actors in the studio on Monday. That said, I still have time to buy some things.

It's a comfort that I seem to be on the right track. The biggest difference between what I bought and your suggestions is that you suggested I buy the Dock-Kings and other pricier receiver/converting gear. I'd appreciate if you could look at my list of purchased items to determine if you think it will work, or if you see some some red flags.

I suppose in the long run, if this theatre show concept shows promise, we would then invest in more reliable gear, such as no-compression wireless HDMI tx/rx. For now, here it is:

​

4 cameras:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y5D8SPZ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1S LiPo)

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06Y56RL5P/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (1S LiPo)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0184DVN4G/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (2S or 3S LiPo)

​

3 receivers (should I buy different antennae?):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0774SMGQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H36AIGY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

3 AC/DC adapters for the receivers:

3 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ISM267G/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

3S LiPo (for 3S LiPo camera and try battery-powered Receiver)

2 x https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GF63645/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Battery chargers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00466PKE0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Channel-Inductrix-Connectors/dp/B074M6G2MD

​

Each receiver has an AV output + AV RCA cable. I'll plug in the RCAs from 2 or 3 receivers into this Switcher:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KXVBB7C/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Using an RCA cable, connect the Switcher's Output to this RCA to HDMI converter:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KTDG177/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

Then HDMI to projector.

​

Ta-da?

Here is my setup. I have most of my parts here (just waiting on the motors, esc, and frame). If you have any feedback, I would love to hear it. Also, why 3 blade props? I don't see many of those.

Goggles: FatShark Predator V2 Video Glasses w/Transmitter and Camera

Antenna: ImmersionRC 5.8 GHz SpiroNET Antenna Set LHCP

Transmitter: Turnigy 9x

DragonFly32 PRO

Motors: 4 Sunnysky X2204S X2204 2300KV Brushless Motor CW For RC Model

ESC: Emax Simon 12A Brushless ESC Electronic Governor Supports 1-3S Small Axis

Frame Kit: LS4G H250 ZMR250 250mm Carbon Fiber Mini Quadcopter Micro Multicopter Frame Kit

Props: 5030 Airplane 2-blade Propeller Props 50x3 CW Multi-Copter Quad-Rotor 2-Pairs

Battery Charger: ORIGINAL SkyRC iMax B6 Super Multi Charger Balancer for Lithium (Li-po,), Ni-cd, Ni-mh, and Pb Battery

Battery: FLOUREON® 2 New 3S Lipo Battery 11.1V 2200mAh 25C RC Rechargeable Battery Pack with XT60 Plug for DJI Phantom Quadcopter, DJI Phantom FC40 Spare, Walkera E22RC, RC Helicopter, RC Airplane RC Hobby DIY Red

OP - I'm in the same boat as you with just getting into this hobby. Get the Hubsan X4, or if you feel like committing a little bit more cash maybe the Blade Nano QX or the Blade 180 QX HD. Something like this will give you a good idea of if you like it and want to sink more money into it.

I've got the Hubsan X4 and I'm having tons of fun flying it. Buy the little $3.00 crash protector (http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-Quadcopter-Propeller-Blades-Protection/dp/B00ECDRBHQ) and get a few extra sets of props. This is the <$50 route (or if you get the Hubsan w/ the Camera, $70ish route).

It's great lube but doesn't really last long and doesn't add that much feeling to a puzzle. I only use it for MoYu magnetic pyraminx tips to make them faster and less dry and on my X-Man Bell Pyra to make it smoother.

Most people prefer heavier weight lube. If you were to buy lighter lube than try Traxxas 30k. The Cubicle lube line is very overpriced. You can buy it [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5136-30K-weight-differential/dp/B000BOLVF8) in larger quantities for cheaper. You can also buy bundles of 10k (very light), 30k (medium), and 50k (heavier) [here] (https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5136X-Differential-Oil-Kit/dp/B000BP1AIA/ref=sr_1_2?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1486562813&sr=1-2&keywords=traxxas+50k) which is probably your best bet if you want a lot of lube for cheap.

This is a great answer. Get these two and some differential oil from Traxxas.

Link

Watch some videos on how to lube and tension the Zhanchi and it will be your best friend.

I currently only have a single LiPO, which I wayyy overpaid for in a store, it's just a 2S 5000mAh 25C one that I paid $50 for in a store. Have some on order from Hobbyking for half that price. As far as charger goes, I just use a Venom PR2 because it gets the job done in a decent amount of time. For anything with a capacity over 6000mAh though, I would recommend getting a charger you can plug, say, a 25A power supply into. That way, you can basically charge the majority of batteries in less than an hour.

As far as a new motor goes for the Bandit, I wouldn't buy anything brushed. You say you're a beginner, so am I, but a week after I bought the brushed Traxxas Rustler, I went down to a LHS and bought a Castle Sidewinder 3 brushless motor/esc combo as well as a 2S LiPO. I get about 45mph with this setup, but if I was to get a 3S LiPO, I've been told that I can get upwards towards 70mph. So yeah, you COULD buy that Stinger, but seriously, in a week from then you will want more power lol.

Tiny whoop ain't cheap. Racedayquads is my favorite source.

Budget charger I use is on Amazon and you'll need the charging cable as well. Perfectly serviceable for 1s batteries.

Charger is listed in the frequently bought together section.

Upgraded 1S LiPo LiHV Charger Board for Blade Inductrix Tiny Whoop Micro JST 1.25 and JST-PH 2.0 1S LiPo Battery with JST and Micro Losi Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CJ5ZJ1V/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YCFRDbQDDQTBP

Okay I'l definitely be buying the balancer/tester. It seems like all the chargers on hobyking worth buying are on back order. I was looking at this one on amazon because its fairly cheap would it be okay?

Specs:

• 2x 6374 180kv motors
  
  
• MBS all-terrain wheels
  
  
• 2x pulley kit (36:13)
  
  
• 2x motor mounts
  
  
• Caliber II Trucks (I have wider Torqueboard 218 trucks coming so I can mount both motors inside)
  
  
• Antispark switch
  
  
• FSESC 200A
  
  
• 2x 6s 6000mAh Lipos
  
  
• Deck from a longboard I bought like 4 years ago
  
  
• Both enclosures were 3d printed with ProtoPasta carbon fiber and TPU washers that vary in thickness to compensate for the contours of the board (my own design).
  
  
• bearings
  
  
• Dual charger
  
  
• other various screws, nuts, wires, connectors, solder, etc
  
  
  Total Cost: Approx. $1200
  
  
  Additional notes:
  
  
• This was my first time using this brand of carbon fiber filament and I have to say its insanely strong, knocking on the back of the case, which is only 5mm thick, feels like knocking on a brick wall, its nothing like any filament i've ever used before and prints surprisingly well but will destroy brass nozzles (which cost pennies anyways).
  
  
• I've gotten it up to 26mph so far, with plenty of throttle left to go (I'd honestly say I didn't hit over 50% throttle). It's been about 2 years since I've rode my longboard, and I've only tried a friends boosted board once about a year ago, so I still need to build up to going fast. A more experienced rider got it up to 29mph and said he still had throttle to spare. So so far no one has been willing to top it off, I'll report back once I get some numbers. I will say that it accelerates faster than most if not all brand name boards.
  
  
• Yes I am aware that I fucked up my rear motor, I have since fixed the issue... Whoops.

Best value I know of is a Devo 7e for $60 and flashed with Deviation firmware to get DSM2/DSMX support.

I run these Annimos servos and they are great and are super cheap. This one has twice the torque of the spektrum one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CNKQX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wFoUDbWRP70K1

Thanks for the response! Which 1300mah batteries did you purchase?

I have a chunk of amazon credit that I'd like to use to get the rest of my stuff (even if it comes at a slight premium), so I plan on getting my prop balancer, charger, etc from there if possible.

This is the charger

And I'm considering a few of these batteries

I went with a Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack for the controller with this charger and they are XT60


Could I use the same charger for the Quad packs? I have not pulled the trigger on the Turnigy nano-tech 1300mAh 3S 45/90 Lipo Pack yet.


I'm guessing the recommendation for the 1800mah 25-35C is to fly slower at first right? We would by flying FPV but not racing it so I think that's probably a good recommendation.

Since we are already using 2200mAh 3S 20C with an XT60 connector could we just use the same exact pack for the quad? It's rated at 20 constant, 30 burst and we could always use a spare for the controller if we go with a lighter battery with higher discharge for the quad later.

We aren't carrying a GoPro or anything so it would probably support the 2200.

Replace it with a charger that didn't cost less than your batteries?

Seriously, though, those things look pretty sketchy, and as I recall you can't even set the charge current, which would be a deal breaker for me, personally. It sounds like yours has bit the dust, so you should probably just replace it anyhow. ISDT makes pretty good chargers, this one is probably the cheapest. I have a D2, which is super nice since it has 2 channels and runs directly off AC power, but it's about 10x the price of your Charsoon charger.

Doesn't mention the strength of the vTx. Might not happen.

I was using this Eachine. It was good.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WQZNZ54/ref=sr_ph_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1475128653&sr=sr-1&keywords=eachine


This would be really good. http://www.team-blacksheep.com/products/prod:unify_pro

The FOV on those goggles isn't that good. I just upgraded to Dom V3's and the immersion is amazing.

So I looked into transistors and I'm not sure that this is what I need? They seem to act more like switches in a circuit from what I can tell. Did you mean a capacitor? To boost the power output? or am I going in the wrong direction all together? lol

As for the charger, oh yes it'll charge just about anything I think

Hello, I was just about to order a couple days ago, then figured I should ask you all here on /r/Multicopter if you have any recommendations for changes. I can solder and have tools, is there anything that I am missing here for a complete setup? Oh I also already own a Spektrum DX6i with two Spektrum AR610 receivers.

item | link | price
-|-|-
AV transmitter/receiver | Boscam 32Ch 5.8G 600mw 5km Wireless AV Transmitter TS832 Receiver RC832 for FPV | $35.63
Charger | Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6 Mini Dual Power 6Amps 60Watts Profess​ional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Disc​harger (Version RCLITE) w/ Micro USB Port For RC Lipo Battery Cherge, Temperature Port | $36.58
Heat shrink | uxcell® 1 Meter 50mm Dia Ratio 2:1 Heat Shrinkable Shrinking Tube Black | $6.66
Flight Controller | AbuseMark Acro Naze32 Rev 6 Flight Controller W/ Straight / Bent Pin Headers, Breakout Cable, & Apex RC Products Nylon Standoffs | $39.99
Frame | YKS DIY Full Carbon Fiber Mini C250 Quadcopter Frame Kit for FPV Mini Quadcopter Part | $37.99
Motors | 4pcs EMAX RS2205 2300KV Brushless Motor 2CW 2CCW for QAV250 QAV300 FPV Racing Quadcopter | $78.79
ESC's | Crazepony 4pcs Littlebee 20A Mini ESC Oneshot125 Electronic Speed Controller 2-4S Brushless for FPV Multicopter Quadcopter | $39.99
Props | Hooshion® 16 pcs 8 pairs GemFan HD HQ 5030 5x3 CW CCW Propeller for Mini QAV250 Quadcopter (Black+Orange) | $12.59
Connectors | XT60 Drone Connectors 5 Pairs (5 Male and 5 Female) | $2.96
Battery | Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack | $16.70
AV Antenna | Anbee® FPV 5.8Ghz Circular Polarized Clover Leaf Antenna High Gain Aerial Set w/RP-SMA Plug | $10.98
Camera | SC2000 600TVL D-WDR DNR Board Camera SONY Super HAD CCD for FPV, 2.8mm Lens, IR Blocked Filter | $33.99
| total | $352.85

Thanks for the info! Yes, these are Li-ion cells. The pack is used in an uplighting fixture. I've taken on the task of replacing the packs which are not lasting long enough: http://www.makystagelight.com/index.php?m=content&c=index&a=show&catid=2&id=9

I believe ElectricNed is correct about the type of charger: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXHGARY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

There is no difference battery charging, the difference is how the charger is powered.

An AC charger can be plugged directly to an AC socket on the wall.

A DC charger requires a 12 volt DC power supply, like a full size car battery or some sort of power supply to convert from 110v AC to the 12v DC the charger requires.

Actually, all chargers are DC, the AC ones just come with the DC power supply built in.

Wow, that's a lot of duty, sounds like you should source locally.

You will need a 20 amp charger and, if required, a parallel charging board to charge 2 batteries at the same time.

I had a look at the products on amazon.ca and I couldn't find anything.

This thing is terrible, on the surface it looks like it would work but it wont do 2C as it only has 50 watt channels.

There maybe someone here who knows of a good canadian supplier but Quadcopter people work with large amp/multi battery charging, you might find more a response for the canadian market there.

Any lipo charger will charge it with a balance board. Just get a charger thats low enough to do a 1C charge on a 200mah battery.

Personally I would just get a cheap balance board capable lipo charger. Can be had for $20+ for a decent one capable of charging that battery I would think.

Something like this will charge from .1A - 5A and has the balance ports built in. Just set it for .2A and let it go it will cut off when the lipo hits 11.1V. Just make sure you get some 4mm banana plug adapters that fit your battery or make one you can use with the gator clips.

Nothing special about them. Just follow the same rules you follow for your big lipos.

Thanks! I can switch over to AKK switchable VTX: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N948FF7/ref=s9_dcacsd_dcoop_bw_c_x_3_w
And grab a 5dBi antenna as well. Hadn't heard about this one though, and frankly too many out there not sure which to pick up! Did you have any vtx to recommend?

I just ordered this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HXHGARY/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I literally only own the truck, reciever and 2 batteries that I'm not too sure about. I ordered that charger earlier, hopefully it's ok.

I also ordered a 5000mah 40c-50c battery: http://www.ebay.com/itm/282202973455?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

After spending another $60 on this thing I think I'm tapped out on my impulse buy. Hoping not to need anything else for a few weeks...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013I9RSEU/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_LAA5C6AxbPVsZ

Ok here are some u/supernippers use.

They are probably better than the last ones I linked, they were like $18 when he bought em.

Seems fine, maybe even overpriced. I got these on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6KMKIE/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They've been doing great. They had blheli flashed on them out of the box.

It should of came with one. Did you get the $200 one? Best bet would be Amazon 3 days.

(3 s)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013I9RLVK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486858191&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=3s+lipo+battery&psc=1]

(4s)[https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013I9RSEU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1486858270&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=4s+lipo+battery&dpPl=1&dpID=41BMq3RoUYL&ref=plSrch]

Yes, should be fine. Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/GoolRC-Professional-Balance-Charger-Discharger/dp/B01HXHGARY/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1542915896&sr=8-15&keywords=lithium+charger

would also work.

As long as it can charge generic lipo batteries, and can make sure you aren't charging too fast, you're good to go.

I use this charger. It comes with a variety of connectors, charges lipo, liion, NIMH, nicd, lead acid. It also has a built power supply l, or you can use DC power. https://www.amazon.com/HTRC-Charger-Discharger-Balance-Battery/dp/B07P863S9D/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=lipo+charger&qid=1563910467&s=gateway&sr=8-5

When I got my Hubsan from Amazon I also got the prop guard which saved dozens of would-be-destroyed props. I also picked up the crash pack for the extra props, and the battery helps a lot too. I read on here somewhere that someone would fly, swap out batteries and continue flying and eventually burned out a motor or something (the extra kit comes with two motors anyways), so keep that in mind.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9E33XA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FJM6ybRDZN741

This is the camera that most people are putting on tiny whoops(really small drones). I've used this exact one, and it works pretty good. It will only give you about 50 ft of range though.


If you are looking for more range, you will have the buy a camera and a transmitter, such as these two:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N948FF7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_xMM6ybVKT9E49

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E6GPYS6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wNM6ybJQT95DW


EDIT: you would also need a recover for the video.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H36AIGY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_6PM6ybWV3Y0EJ

This puts out RCA to a monitor of your choice

just so you know, this is the quality of an FPV camera and you will be getting breakup lines like this as bodies and stuff getting in the way will cause signal loss https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nU96HLe-hcs

​

​

Here is stuff you can use from Amazon for the AIO Fpv Camera

​

https://www.amazon.com/Wolfwhoop-WT05-Transmitter-Antenna-Quadcopter/dp/B06XJMQQ6Y/

​

https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N0Z0ME2

​

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Charger-Channel-Inductrix-Connectors/dp/B074M6G2MD

​

Here is how to hook it up to a battery https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uOcxdVX6zYk

​

On the receving end, I assume you will then want to output to HDMI? The best/easiest way to do this is to buy two of these dock kings and hdmi adapters, one for each camera. If you have power nearby you can use a regular 5.5mm DC jack power adapter like for laptops. Or you can buy the battery packs for them. You will also want at least 2 antennas on each receiver, 1 omni and 1 patch antenna pointing in the direction of the actors

​

https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?cPath=56&products_id=669

​

https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?products_id=704

​

https://furiousfpv.com/product_info.php?cPath=42&products_id=687

​

https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-Antenna-Protective-Covering-Multicopter/dp/B01N9QM409

​

https://www.amazon.com/RCmall-Accuracy-Directional-Circularly-Polarized/dp/B0772WJB5R

​


You will have to learn/read instructions on how to set each camera and receiver to their matching frequency bands


​

​

You have no idea how helpful you are!

I only have 1 question left to ask, I was looking at the deviation transmitters specifically this Walkera : https://www.amazon.com/Walkera-DEVO-7E-Control-Transmitter-Channel/dp/B00B3OCRTY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484613948&sr=8-1&keywords=Walkera+devo

On the deviation page it says it supports flysky : https://www.deviationtx.com/

so would that amazon linked transmitter work with the flight controller you linked here : http://www.banggood.com/Beecore-F3_EVO_Brushed-ACRO-Flight-Control-Board-DSM2-For-Inductrix-Tiny-Whoop-Eachine-E010-p-1089021.html?rmmds=search

If so i think i will be going with one of the walkera since they are more in my budget.

Highly recommend the akk vtx it performs extremely well for the price point it hits and competes with the immersion rc stuff plus it has a pigtail which means it's way harder to break. Also contains a safety feature where it doesn't immediately power up to any mw and you can change channels to avoid interference on start up.

AKK X1P 5.8Ghz 40CH 25mW 200mW 600mW Switchable FPV AV Transmitter with Pigtail for Racing Drone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N948FF7/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_rHqNybYHKC7XJ

For general bashing and on Amazon, the Castle Sidewinder 3 isn't a bad option. They've got a 3800kv, 4600kv, and 5700kv if you want different motor options.

I like my Hobbywing stuff so far, but the price might be a bit more for ESC and motor through Amazon.

Walkera Devo 7e. Not the best, but with the deviation open source firmware and a few hardware modules, that one radio can operate on over a dozen protocols. You can easily increase the transmitting range 10x with a bit of soldering. I've been using it on my quads for 5 months now, hasn't let me down.

from the suggestions below the best middle ground seems to be

https://www.amazon.com/Castle-Creations-Sidewinder-Waterproof-NC1406-5700KV/dp/B00AQYMNE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478883490&sr=8-1&keywords=010-0115-02

now if I could just find it cheaper!

Don't forget the extra bits and pieces like wires and heatshrink. For batteries I would suggest these (my link) instead. You will very quickly outgrow the 3S packs. Worth picking up a few batteries, otherwise you'll only have 5mins at a time. Also, the batteries you've chosen do not match the XT-60 connectors you've bought separately.

Charger is ok and is what I started with too, I would recommend picking up a parallel charging board too, so you don't have to wait as long/swap batteries while charging.

I'd recommend this frame it's a few $ more, but is very sturdy and spares are readily available because of how many people use it.

I love eachines https://www.amazon.com/Eachine-700tvl-ET200-200mW-Transmitter/dp/B00WQZNZ54/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474931947&sr=8-1&keywords=eachine+200mw

https://www.amazon.ca/ANNIMOS-Digital-Torque-Servo-Waterproof/dp/B0769DFJVK/ref=sr_ph?ie=UTF8&qid=1538005906&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=20kg+servo

This is probably the best you can get for your budget

Ok thank you for the info I think I'm going with this charger instead
https://www.amazon.com/HTRC-Charger-Discharger-Balance-Battery/dp/B07P863S9D?ref_=ast_sto_dp

What do you think about this instead?

Thanks a lot. I was trying to do some research before posting and I guess I was looking at old information. how do these changes look?

Chassis: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Yokomo-1-10-RC-RWD-DRIFT-CHASSIS-YD-2S-Rear-Wheel-Drive-Drift-KIT-DP-YD2S/202804677855?hash=item2f3819ccdf:g:ExQAAOSwCMRczQcp

Motor + ESC: http://www.rcmart.com/hobbywing-quicrun-3650sd-135t-brushless-sensored-motor-wonisiki-hell-blaze-p-70973.html?cPath=1560_1301

Battery: https://www.amazon.ca/Gens-ace-Battery-HardCase-Approved/dp/B00WOAWHUK

Charger: https://www.amazon.ca/Meiyiu-Battery-Charger-Digital-Discharger/dp/B07NW99VLM/ref=sr_1_16?keywords=7.4V+2s+lipo+charger&qid=1571863442&sr=8-16

servo: https://www.ebay.com/c/1752440977

Gyro: https://www.ebay.com/itm/YOKDPP-302V4-Yokomo-DP-302-V4-Drift-Steering-Gyro-/123636436439

It's the older style pdb. The motors aren't running at the time is the photo. I've slowly been removing more and more of the electronics from the frame during test. At this time only the ESCs are still attached and the signal cables are completely opposite the signal wires. Did you ever clear this up?

I've tried a TS5823 and one of these with no luck. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01N948FF7/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501840317&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=akk+vtx

I have another quad with a cheap pdb and fc and vtx that doesn't have these issues.

you should maybe buy one from amazon like This one and then if its not the problem then just return it

I’m about two weeks ahead of you.

The Jumper is a solid choice, mostly for the reasons you mention. Here is the T16 thread. Everything you ever wanted to know.

As far as transmitter batteries, I’d suggest checking out this thread @ RCgroups. I’d have purchased the $35 in radio charging kit instead of the standard 18650 & charger.

I’ve also got a Tinyhawk S. Would highly recommend. This little thing is bulletproof. It’s currently getting 4 minutes flight time on a 450mah 1S (I bought 10 of them). Haven’t tried 2S yet, as it’s been quite windy outside. The charger shipped with it only charges two (1S) at a time, so I bought this 6 place charger from Amazon.

Can’t comment on the EV800, as I went all in on Fatshark HDO's & ImersionRC Rapidfire.

Here, 4 genuine littlebees for $40 bucks. $10 each, free shipping

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6KMKIE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought these guys and they are going to be delivered today! hopefully i can fly my quad for the first time today!

A cheap easy way to fly indoors like he was is to get a controller ( cheaper or a little better ) and a micro whoop. You will also need some fpv goggles which can range from $50-$300+ or so. A cheap FPV monitor can work for a beginner to try out though!

Edit: sorry no hyperlinks worked. On mobile

You might be right. A multimeter would really be handy, to confirm, but you might be on the right track there.

Actually.... stay tuned...

edit: Tested on my lipo balance charger and sure enough, on NiMH/NiCd mode, it does provide a constant voltage, according to my multimeter.

Haven't had any trouble with the smaller servos, but they really don't get used very often (maybe a half dozen times per run, if that). The servo I use now is this one: https://www.amazon.ca/ANNIMOS-Digital-Torque-Servo-Waterproof/dp/B0769DFJVK/

​

I also have it in a 1/16 rock crawler. Strong (something like 2x the touque compared to the stock TRX-4 servo), drop in without mods, long cable that doesn't require an extension, and it includes a metal servo horn. I've bought several more and will be replacing the servos in other trucks as they die. I also own a $100 Savox 1210, which is still in the original box because the 20kg servo has been working so well. LOL

So as to where to get stuff... this will get you started if you haven't already.

• S550 Frame - http://multirotormania.com/hexacopter/682-thunder-s550-hexacopter-kit-by-sk.html
  
• fast local US shipping
  
• DJI E310 power system - https://store.dji.com/product/e310-6
  
• The only place to reliably get the E310 power packs. They are that new.
  
• DJI Naza-M Lite with GPS - http://www.getfpv.com/dji-naza-m-lite-flight-controller-with-gps-compass.html
  
• Local US shipping
  
• Turnigy 9X with reciever - http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=8992
  
• China, so you'll need an express shipping method to reliably get it here in time.
  
• Highend alternative (you'll want Mode 2) - http://www.banggood.com/FrSky-2_4G-ACCST-Taranis-X9D-Plus-Transmitter-p-940819.html
  
• Cheap 2-Axis Gimbal - http://www.amazon.com/Brushless-Gimbal-Camera-Phantom-Walkera/dp/B00GAXYJFS/
  
• Balance Charger - Highend with Internal AC adapter or Generic Slow charger
  
  I'll have more time in the week to finish out the part list including some misc components you'll need like batteries, battery straps, and battery non-spark battery connections.

[The ET200] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WQZNZ54/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_MSGmxbNBM58SY)

It's got the small LEDs to show you what channel you are on. And comparing the list of channels from the transmitter and the list of channels from the receiver, they are listed as being the same.

At this point I don't know what one to believe if either. I wish I could get another receiver to link up to it so I could actually see if the channels are what they say they are. Because as this point my goggles are the only thing hooking up and it doesn't have a channel display.

I use this charger for example HTRC Lipo Charger 1-6S Touch Screen Dual Discharger AC150W DC240W 10A T240 Fast Balance Battery Charger for RC Li-ion Life NiCd NiMH LiHV PB Smart Battery
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P863S9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_sZ7NDbWYZW4PJ.

If you see the front it has a connector for the balance lead and the banana connectors

I spent about $150 dollars, and got everything from Amazon.

3S 4S Lipo Battery Charger, HOTRC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QV1ZM1N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Tattu 14.8V 1300mAh LiPo Battery... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013I9RSEU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

SKYRC SK-600092-01 4.3” FPV... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HMHS9W6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Spotter V2 Micro FPV AIO Camera... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078PK98HC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Grifiti Nootle Recon 5 Flex Arm... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KJL39QK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

SMALLRIG 30mm Diameter 1/4"... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0081D1YGC?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I'm no expert but I would recommend starting with a tiny whoop. Also, I use the ISDT SC-608 to charge batteries.

Thanks again Spark_Tek. I am thinking the Senton is the way to go. Would this charger and battery work well with it? And would I need any other type of connector, concerns about ESP etc.

Also, after researching a bit, some ESP's detect low voltage and that is really important it seems with LiPo. Does the included ESP do a shutoff? The alarm things that get squished in don't appear robust.

iMAX B6AC Version 2 Digital LiPo
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZGZZ40K
Gens ace 7.4V 5000mAh 50C 2S LiPo Battery Pack
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WOAWHUK

Thanks! I was debating between those and those red metallic ones on Amazon but I think I'll just get the Towerpro ones.

So would this work?

This Stuff?

Which weight gives it a lighter, faster feel? 50 or 30k?

http://www.amazon.com/Walkera-DEVO-7E-Control-Transmitter-Channel/dp/B00B3OCRTY



This is the devo 7e that is modify-able correct? Does this price seem right?

This is the charger I use:

http://www.amazon.com/HiTec-44167-Plus-4-Port-Multi-Charger/dp/B005MW0WZO

and here is a video of a guy talking about it:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Jgtlo4Kc8Q

it's in serie. Do you mean one of this? https://www.amazon.com/GoolRC-Battery-Balancer-Charger-7-4-11-1V/dp/B00CF93RF4

Just buy diff oil. It's much cheaper and it's the same stuff. Traxxas 50k for the core, Traxxas 30k for the pieces.

Here is the vtx im currently using on 3s.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WQZNZ54/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1462084772&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=eachine+200mw&dpPl=1&dpID=31Sqdm4AjyL&ref=plSrch#

Here is the mobile version of your link

Gen 8 in transit to me but I went ahead and ordered this Gens ace 7.4V 5000mAh 50C 2S LiPo Battery Pack HardCase and budget charger Lipo Battery Balance Charger Touch Screen Duo Discharger Dual Ac150w DC240W

Check out Gens Ace.

Example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00WOAWHUK/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492268944&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=gens+ace+lipo&dpPl=1&dpID=41r0nHzSG-L&ref=plSrch

these little bees

this fc

Yep, so far only 1 out of 12 has failed. That was due to a high speed.impact. so far waterproof,. ANNIMOS 20KG Digital Servo High Torque Full Metal Gear Waterproof for RC Model DIY, DS3218MG,Control Angle 270°