(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best anchors

Use snap toggle bolts.

http://www.amazon.com/Mechanical-Plastics-Toggler-Snaptoggle-10-Pack/dp/B00GVK904A

Please remember that the bolt is only going to be as strong as the wall. As always, if you want real strength, like putting heavy books on a shelf or mounting a tv or something, you're gonna have to find some studs.

How strong will a thin shelled SIP be for vertical loads? They would be fine in the horizontal plane. How about the vertical plane? Conventional SIPS have OSB to withstand vertical loads.

If there are any compressive loads near the surface, something like these might help to distribute the load. Thought about using these when making surfboards.

A half inch hole seems a bit excessive for a 15lb mirror. The anchor you linked is like for hanging utility shelving. It will work, but it's pretty overkill.

For smaller stuff like this, I tend to use these sorts of anchors.

Use better drywall anchors. I had a similar thing happen with a curtain rod, and replaced the little straight nylon wall anchors with self-drilling wall anchors. The big screw threads are a lot better than tiny ridges on regular drywall anchors. I used these to secure a coat rack in my laundry room and it's been trouble free for over 4 years.

It's actually really easy. Get that anchor out of there. Go buy a toggle bolt that will fit in the big hole you have now. Use it. They are cheap and available at any hardware store. They will hold better than the other style anchor also. Here is a link for reference:

http://www.amazon.com/Hillman-Fastener-5024-Toggle-Anchor/dp/B001003YFC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1371227742&sr=8-5&keywords=toggle+bolt

>concrete wedge anchors

I like to use https://www.amazon.com/CONFAST-Lag-Shield-Anchor-Short/dp/B071K8R6CP/ or https://www.amazon.com/CONCRETE-LEAD-ANCHORS-10-Pcs/dp/B07JMKW5HR/ hope that helps.

https://www.amazon.com/HIlti-423472-KH-EZ-I-anchor-systems/dp/B01N05UAP2

Drill a quarter inch hole and screw it in. They are pretty awesome

Really depends on what you wall is made of if it’s just going into plasterboard and you are sure you are not going to hit any studs use https://www.amazon.com/L-H-Dottie-WD8-Driller-100-Pack/dp/B008CNOU4E/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=wall+driller&qid=1573075071&sr=8-5
If you suspect there is a stud behind just use a long screw and screw into the stud any screw 1.5 inch or longer should be fine.
If the wall is solid concrete you will need a drill and a masonry bit preferably a hammer drill and the bit should be the same size as a plastic wall anchor which you will need to insert into the hole that you drill then screw into the wall anchor https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Ribbed-Plastic-Anchors/dp/B01J06DC36/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=wall+anchor+plastic&qid=1573075308&sr=8-4
Don’t buy the ones I linked :) just go to you local hardware store and look for the same easier and cheaper.

There are shelving styles, and anchors that will hold 18 pounds. these anchors, for example Would definitely be strong enough, and there is a video on the product page if you scroll down, That will show you how to install.

I'm a huge fan of the Toggler brand anchors when I can't screw into a stud. You can find them at Home Depot as well.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0051IBDKW/ref=pd_aw_sim_328_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=411M9VM3Z7L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C100_&refRID=0FRF2AFFC415N447ZJGT

If they almost hold with just the screw then they should hold fine with an anchor. I like these. They can be removed fairly easily too without doing too much damage to your wall (although will still require a small patch) in case you want to change your window treatment someday.

(actually you can see in the product description for this particular Chinese version "The product is good to use". so there you go!)

http://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Zinc-Plated-Channel-Fastener/dp/B00GVK904A

Use these to mount L brackets off the wall, then put screws with the head chopped off into the bottom of your "feet" (the blue things in the 4 corners) and those will fit (hang) into the hole of the L bracket. I'll draw a picture... http://imgur.com/qtSSMo8

Can we see the front of that? I like lights :-)

The kind of anchor linked in by OP works OK for this, but you should note that the bolt will be sticking out of the slab. There isn't any good way to remove the anchor without completely hosing your setup.

If you're looking to easily move the rack around, I might suggest a "drop-in" style anchor:

https://www.amazon.com/ITW-50125-Head-Drop-Anchor/dp/B000BOB3EM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1519921094&sr=8-1&keywords=redhead+concrete+anchors+drop+in

Those essentially put a threaded metal sleeve inside of the pilot-hole you drill that you can bolt into. (You'll need to buy 3/8" bolts separately.) It'll be flush with the floor, and won't stub anyone's toes.

These are my favorite kind of snap toggles I've used so far: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051IBDKW/

Yes generally you shouldn't use a drill for it because it is so easy to overtighten. As I said I bought a tool for it, similar to this one:
https://www.amazon.com/Anndason-Setting-Hollow-Cavity-Plasterboard/dp/B0711S75N9

(just first google result)

but even with that tool you first have to do a testrun and see how hard you should pull on the handle. It is a bit fidgety but quite strong when done correctly.

Cake day!

These have been my favorite for a long time. Some Azome buyers have had a bad experience, but I would go to a regular branded hardware store and be sure you aren't getting a cheap knock off.

I like these anchors for hanging on hollow wall.


200 lbs Drywall Anchor Mounting Kit for Wall Mounting Without Studs or Through Metal/Steel Studs to Mount TVs, Grab Bar, Etc. Includes:1/2" Drill Bit, 4 X 200lbs SNAPTOGGLE Anchors, 4 Screws+Washers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P3L966N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_rhnSDbZTKKRV6

Follow the directions about what size drill bit. You won’t need masonry bit for plaster.

Most concrete anchors (which you could also use for brick) would not have to actually penetrate the wall. You would only have to drill about 1.5" deep to install an anchor like [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Vestil-HKIT-4-Concrete-Anchor-Inches/dp/B0052PMV3W%3FSubscriptionId%3DAKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q%26tag%3Dduckduckgo-d-20%26linkCode%3Dxm2%26camp%3D2025%26creative%3D165953%26creativeASIN%3DB0052PMV3W).

The stand is tripodal so you simply need something that can withstand the weight at those three points.

wickedpissa mentioned bedrisers which is the right idea - support the stand at it's three points with minimal equipment - but could be a little low on substantiality (not a word but best describes what I mean).
Because the stand will be much bulkier than, say, a bed riser, it will be prone to knocking the riser over. Something with more mass such as concrete block would not be prone to such a problem and would give you about 6 inches of rise.

Your next issue to overcome is that the rising of the stand will place the center of mass at a greater height than what the stand is designed for. When too high, the stand is liable to fall over. This can be resolved by either A) attaching to the wall (as seen in many tall pieces of furniture) or B) attaching the stand to the risers.

What I would do is take three concrete blocks from your local block and brick supplier and cover them in carpet (for aesthetics). Next, just plop the stand on top. Then use concrete or drywall anchors to bolt a wire to your wall. Then attach that wire to a point near the top of your stand to keep it from tipping.

Agreed! I prefer the kind that is made of steel and is suitable for both drywall and studs. Just mounted some shelves last weekend with these: ITW Brands 25316 50PK#50 Stud Dry Anchor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQMK7Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uvEpDbA7S53ZB

I had the same situation on some floating shelves and used these:

Ansoon Zinc Self-Drilling Drywall Anchors with Screws Kit, 50 Pieces All Together https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVT1N4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BboQCbZWJDHYY

Work well and are strong. They do put giant holes in your drywall so if you ever take then down there will be some repair work. But one in the stud and one of these on each end and you'll be pretty safe.

These are my other favorite anchors for strength, but they are impossible to get out and have to be dead on or you won't be able to get the machine screw in.

https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/wall-anchor-for-speedbrace-series-workstation-brackets.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=product_search&utm_campaign=google_product_ads&source=googlebase&country=US&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnKHlBRDLARIsAMtMHDGfyWWIWPPaLJeQJbvJp86rIp1Of9KXM23ZDcScfMSkZ8bkj5k_9bsaAgx4EALw_wcB

http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-3-Outlet-Extension-20-Feet/dp/B00004SQHS

http://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SnapSkru-Self-Drilling-Drywall-Anchor/dp/B0051IB63Q

There, solved your problems for less than $20.

This style anchor works wonders for hanging heavy shit in drywall. One will support the mirror, two will idiot proof it.

https://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Zinc-Plated-Channel-Fastener/dp/B0051IBDKW/ref=pd_sim_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0051IBDKW&pd_rd_r=5R9HHHZNZADDRNMBB44B&pd_rd_w=fAiNu&pd_rd_wg=C3sSs&psc=1&refRID=5R9HHHZNZADDRNMBB44B

You drill a hole, stick the metal base into the wall, and pull a plastic tab tight to the wall. Then cut the plastic wings, and you have a reusable threaded piece of metal permanently hanging on the wall. When you move the mirror and want to patch it, hit it with a screwdriver and a hammer and it will fall into the wall cleanly.

It's nice because you can take the hardware out as much as you need and the anchor will remain in place and reusable.

Drywall screws, despite the name, are not for drywall. At least, not in that way. They're to go through drywall into the stud behind it. So either you need to use some sort of drywall anchor or fasteners into the metal studs.

As for the weight, that's not really that big a deal, not with something that large and relatively light for it's size. These little guys have a listed sheer strength of 105 pounds on 3/8" drywall. The working load (for safety) is gonna be roughly 1/4 that, so let's just round down and say 25 pounds. That's only 2-3 of these anchors to hold up your art. So say you mount the french cleat using one every 8 inches, that's 6 anchors (if the 4 foot dimension is width), and there you go. The art itself will be hanging really close to the wall, so leverage is minimal. The load is static, so you won't get any extra force from movement. Hanging it on drywall will be fine. Hell, you could go seriously overkill and put in an anchor every 4 inches, if you wanted (though that may damage the integrity of the drywall if they're too close together).

No worries if they are metal studs. Just find the center of the stud and go through it with a step bit, pop in some toggle bolts and secure the bracket to the wall with the provided screws

the drywall is either hung on 2x4 studs which is mounted to the cinder block wall, or for space and cost they could have mounted furring strips to the block wall, then attached the drywall. that outlet cover that you removed, how much space is in that cavity before block? is it a regular depth box?

What size TV are you going to hang? static mount our swing arm? whatever you do, after mounting the bracket hang from it. if it's holding your ass up there, it will hold a tv just fine.

if there is a cavity of space in there, there is probably solid wood holding up the drywall. lag bolts will be fine in the studs. if the block is real close, well then things get tricky. i'd probably suggest trying to butterfly anchor into the block.

http://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SNAPTOGGLE-Zinc-Plated-Channel-Fastener/dp/B00GVK904A

i would also make sure your holes are still over the stud area, you will need that as a backing and support to any bolt/anchor you press against the drywall.