Reddit mentions: The best drywall anchors

Depends what you want to place upon the shelf. For heavier loads you’ll want to use standard shelf - L brackets, for even heavier loads, medium to heavy duty shelf brackets that are L brackets with a diagonal support. If you have relatively light items and want the hardware out of sight, then use floating shelves where the support brackets are inserted into the shelf.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/204657448

https://www.homedepot.com/p/202824729

https://www.homedepot.com/p/206337897

All three options would require either to locate a stud(s) to screw into, or a type of good wall anchor. I recommend these wall anchors as I use them my self and have hung heavy mirrors utilizing these.

https://www.amazon.com/Wallclaw-Anchors-Hammer-Drywall-Anchor/dp/B00GXFABZK

Just gently hammer them in, then tighten a screw into it to fully secure.

Wingits Wall anchors should hold 300 pounds each so if you had a swivel arm that took four wall anchors (1200lbs support) you should be good :-)

I used these to attach handicap rails in walls without studs. (Lath and plaster) They were strong and secure enough to support a 300lb man.

I have to be honest, unless you can find the studs in your wall, I think that the only way you can keep the hanger up is with a drywall anchor.

Something small like this should do the trick: http://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Fastener-Plastic-Conical-Anchors/dp/B00BX6KOWE/ref=zg_bs_6906598011_20/181-7386968-9805205

You could try to get approval from your landlord to do this repair. It may help you offer to leave the hanger when you move out.

Otherwise you could attach the anchors and then just patch and repair the drywall when you leave. Push the anchors through into the wall, fill the hole with drywall mud, sand it smooth, and touch it up with paint. Most big home improvement stores have a machine that can match paint, the only problem is they need a sample about the size of a quarter. The landlord may also be able to provide paint or they might know the color already
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Depending on how much weight you're talking about hanging it's usually best if you can find a stud to directly screw into.

In absence of that being an option, self drilling drywall anchors are the next best option. You could use something like THESE to go directly to where the old smaller anchors it appears you have were at.

You shouldn't need a drill and screw to hang pictures in drywall, you just need a nail and a picture hanger like this.

Whenever you do need a screw for future reference, I recommend self drilling drywall anchors like these. No drill required, just a screwdriver, they're super easy.

You don't need a guy for these things ;) You just need the right things for the right applications. I got pretty frustrated once when trying to screw a wood screw into a stud and the screw broke, because I had to hang my shelf in a different spot thanks to the spoken screw.

How strong will a thin shelled SIP be for vertical loads? They would be fine in the horizontal plane. How about the vertical plane? Conventional SIPS have OSB to withstand vertical loads.

If there are any compressive loads near the surface, something like these might help to distribute the load. Thought about using these when making surfboards.

Just go directly into the sheetrock and I like to use the "screwable" anchors like these:


https://www.amazon.com/Drilling-Drywall-Plastic-Anchors-Screws/dp/B01FCZ8I3I/ref=zg_bs_6906598011_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=XG17A75N5E2MX0RSWBGE


They're super easy to install and no need to drill.

I make and install curtains for a living, this is my time to shine!

First things first, other posters are correct that you’re going to need to patch the drywall and use drywall anchors for your next attempt. Do not use any of the screws or anchors included with the curtain rod, you need to get the right hardware for your wall which probably means longer screws as well as better anchors. These are the kind of drywall anchors we use.

I assume you’ve got premade curtains, which comes in standard lengths. The previous tenants probably did the same, so it’s very likely that all the drywall in that specific rod height is majorly compromised. Is there any way you can hang your rod higher or lower and hem your curtains? Anchoring your rod into undamaged drywall (or even better, try to find the studs or header on either side and top of the window) and attach your brackets into that.

Lastly, do you have enough brackets holding up your curtain rod? We always include a center support bracket if the rod is wider than 60 inches. This helps distribute the weight better and keeps your curtain rod from sagging.

Hope this helps! I could give you a few more tips, but I’d need to see the kind of curtain hardware you’re using and the window you’re trying to hang it onto.

Homedone Drywall Anchor 50-Pack - 2 Different Sizes, Self-Drilling with Screws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KVU4Z68/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8PrxzbGDEQ8MP

I've used these with good results only downside is the huge hole they leave if you remove them.

They make smaller ones but I can't find them on Amazon that are rated for the 50 lbs and take a 7/32" drill bit to install.

I'd recommend just going to the hardware store they have a huge selection typically.

They aren't drilled into a beam, I used anchors with the hooks. They're great and will ensure the hook wont go anywhere!

These work great and are easy to use, just screw in the anchor then the provided screw
https://www.amazon.com/Drilling-Drywall-Plastic-Anchors-Screws/dp/B01FCZ8I3I

Really depends on what you wall is made of if it’s just going into plasterboard and you are sure you are not going to hit any studs use https://www.amazon.com/L-H-Dottie-WD8-Driller-100-Pack/dp/B008CNOU4E/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=wall+driller&qid=1573075071&sr=8-5
If you suspect there is a stud behind just use a long screw and screw into the stud any screw 1.5 inch or longer should be fine.
If the wall is solid concrete you will need a drill and a masonry bit preferably a hammer drill and the bit should be the same size as a plastic wall anchor which you will need to insert into the hole that you drill then screw into the wall anchor https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Quality-Ribbed-Plastic-Anchors/dp/B01J06DC36/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=wall+anchor+plastic&qid=1573075308&sr=8-4
Don’t buy the ones I linked :) just go to you local hardware store and look for the same easier and cheaper.

There are shelving styles, and anchors that will hold 18 pounds. these anchors, for example Would definitely be strong enough, and there is a video on the product page if you scroll down, That will show you how to install.

Don’t listen everyone freaking out about finding studs. If you have actual drywall and not plaster, then anchors are perfectly fine. I’ve had a 42” tv mounted to drywall for 8 years using 6 of these anchors because I’m German, and I like engineering overkill. Each one holds 50 lbs.

If they almost hold with just the screw then they should hold fine with an anchor. I like these. They can be removed fairly easily too without doing too much damage to your wall (although will still require a small patch) in case you want to change your window treatment someday.

(actually you can see in the product description for this particular Chinese version "The product is good to use". so there you go!)

You can use larger anchors like these:
https://www.amazon.com/HomeDone-Drywall-Anchor-30-Pack-Self-Drilling/dp/B01KVTW7H8/ref=sr_1_6?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1510633742&sr=1-6&keywords=drywall+anchors

OR Toggle Bolts like these:
https://www.amazon.com/Hillman-370054-Toggle-16X3-Inch-50-Pack/dp/B000BD8MFQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1510633819&sr=1-4&keywords=toggle+bolts

Some of these bad boys outta do the trick. The link I posted is just for reference, you obviously wanna make sure you get the right size. They’re metal wall anchors, they’re usually helpful for quickly getting screws into drywall like when putting a shelf up. They leave a nasty hole behind when you take them out but for your case it shouldn’t matter. Even better, slather the outer threads of them with some epoxy and screw them in for extra grip.

get the screw in type or toggle anchors and they will be plenty strong. people hang TV's using these, even without studs.

if you can get one stud, they should provide enough resistance against the "pull out of the wall" force, even if the other side is only held in by drywall anchors.

Those are garbage. Throw them away. Get something like these instead.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FCZ8I3I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_inmwCbW1JC7Z6

Go to the local hardware store and get a larger screw in anchor, like these: Drywall Anchor.

They come in different sizes, get one slightly larger than the hole.

Alternatively you can use a toggle bolt.

The stand is tripodal so you simply need something that can withstand the weight at those three points.

wickedpissa mentioned bedrisers which is the right idea - support the stand at it's three points with minimal equipment - but could be a little low on substantiality (not a word but best describes what I mean).
Because the stand will be much bulkier than, say, a bed riser, it will be prone to knocking the riser over. Something with more mass such as concrete block would not be prone to such a problem and would give you about 6 inches of rise.

Your next issue to overcome is that the rising of the stand will place the center of mass at a greater height than what the stand is designed for. When too high, the stand is liable to fall over. This can be resolved by either A) attaching to the wall (as seen in many tall pieces of furniture) or B) attaching the stand to the risers.

What I would do is take three concrete blocks from your local block and brick supplier and cover them in carpet (for aesthetics). Next, just plop the stand on top. Then use concrete or drywall anchors to bolt a wire to your wall. Then attach that wire to a point near the top of your stand to keep it from tipping.

I agree with /u/niceflipflop that a couple of scale pics would be nice, but at a glance I'd definitely say you've got plaster walls. First thing's first, do you own or rent? That's going to make a big difference as to what advice I give as I've both owned and rented places with plaster walls.

If you rent, leave them the hell alone. Hell hath no fury like a rapidly deteriorating plaster wall and being a landlord myself who does all my own drywall/plaster you'll probably get charged a lot of money for those repairs. Stick to tape or 3M command strips and call it a day.

If you own the place, do yourself a favor and invest in a quality hammer drill. I bought a Dewalt because I knew I was going to abuse it, but for someone who is going to use it a few times a year, the model I linked will do fine. Some argue that you don't need a hammer drill to put a hole in masonry and they're wrong. Plus, it doubles as a standard, high power corded drill which is also an indispensable tool.

For interior (read: not masonry backed) walls, I've had good luck with these. They're low weight (~50 pounds or so) but great because you can avoid drilling and causing a mess like you have on your hands now. I never tried it, but I've heard putting a sturdy tape like duct tape can help prevent tear out as well. They also penetrate the slats and studs if you happen to hit one. This type of toggle fastener technically works, but I don't like them for plaster because of the size of hole you need to drill for them which generally causes more problems than it solves (1/2", if I remember). Definitely don't use anything like these as they'll just shred your plaster.

For exterior, structural, masonry walls, you need masonry screws and the 3/16" masonry bit to go with the 1/4" screws. If you have a hardware store near you, chances are they'll have them in packs far less than 100 and many stores sells Tapcons which often come with a bit included.

It seems daunting at first, drilling into a concrete/brick wall (I cut away an entire section to install a door. shudder) but once you get used to it it's just like mounting to any other wall surface. The thing you have to understand is just how thick your plaster is and subsequently how many threads you need to have inserted into the masonry to make it safe. Take this cross section for instance. If we look at the deepest your cabinet back is likely to be (.5") and add 1.5" for the plaster thickness that means the fastener has to penetrate 2" of material before it even hits the wall. The general rule is that for every length of fastener you have outside the functional threaded surface (the masonry wall), you need to have the same length of threads inside i.e. "A" has to equal "A". So, in this example, if you have 2" of material (.5" cabinet back and 1.5" plaster) you'd need ~4" masonry screws to safely hold your cabinet in place. For something as relatively light duty as a coat rack you could probably get away with 3.5" or so, but anything less and you're risking the fastener simply pulling out of the masonry walls, especially if your home is brick as the interior bricks are far softer than the exterior. Also I realize that not everyone is as tool hungry as I am, but an impact driver drives fasteners into masonry far better than a standard drill. You're more likely to strip them using a standard drill and frankly I use my impact more often than I do my drill, but we gutted our entire place so I understand not everyone wants a pile of tools.

I've used these to replace plastic anchors holding a couple of towl racks to the wall. they have a larger diameter than the plastic anchor hole and so far have held up well.

If I were you I'd go with something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GYRQVJF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_uBS2Db90R31CG

As there isn't studs, anything that protrudes from the wall is applying alot of pulling force to any of the top screws. The wider mount keeps it close to the wall and gives you a much larger surface area to mount the hell out of the tv.

Id also use something like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Drilling-Drywall-Plastic-Anchors-Screws/dp/B01FCZ8I3I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=drywall+anchors&qid=1574619039&sprefix=Drywall+an&sr=8-4

These are to give a bit more reliant hold to the drywall, not fantastic, but with enough of these (like 8-10 of them) with a static tv mount, you should be fine.

This all does depend on the weight of the tv and any angle you have the TV mounted at though.

It's an anchor for a screw.

https://www.amazon.com/Quality-Drilling-Drywall-Anchors-Together/dp/B013SBBUGK/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1485996679&sr=8-7&keywords=drywall+anchor

200lb shear rating

I had the same situation on some floating shelves and used these:

Ansoon Zinc Self-Drilling Drywall Anchors with Screws Kit, 50 Pieces All Together https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CVT1N4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BboQCbZWJDHYY

Work well and are strong. They do put giant holes in your drywall so if you ever take then down there will be some repair work. But one in the stud and one of these on each end and you'll be pretty safe.

These are my other favorite anchors for strength, but they are impossible to get out and have to be dead on or you won't be able to get the machine screw in.

https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/wall-anchor-for-speedbrace-series-workstation-brackets.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=product_search&utm_campaign=google_product_ads&source=googlebase&country=US&gclid=Cj0KCQjwnKHlBRDLARIsAMtMHDGfyWWIWPPaLJeQJbvJp86rIp1Of9KXM23ZDcScfMSkZ8bkj5k_9bsaAgx4EALw_wcB

• Hammer
  
• Level
  
• Measuring Tape
  
• Some screw drivers -
  
• Drill / Impact Driver . - https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DCK240C2-Lithium-Driver-Impact/dp/B00IJ0ALYS
  
• Dry wall anchor kit - https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Plastic-Drilling-Drywall-Hollow-wall/dp/B01IGMMJ9S/ref=sr_1_15?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540921117&sr=1-15&keywords=drywall+anchor+kit
  

http://www.amazon.com/Coleman-Cable-3-Outlet-Extension-20-Feet/dp/B00004SQHS

http://www.amazon.com/TOGGLER-SnapSkru-Self-Drilling-Drywall-Anchor/dp/B0051IB63Q

There, solved your problems for less than $20.

Just regular drywall anchors, like you'd use to hang a shelf or something. You probably have a bunch lying around the house.
https://www.amazon.com/T-K-Excellent-Plastic-Drilling-Phillips-Assortment/dp/B07283N4LB/

Maybe you've already thought of this, but it's possible you're hitting a screw or nail. I know you said the stud finder doesnt say metal is there.

Do you face the same issue if you move the installation up/down 3 inches? Are your curtains light enough to use these drywall screws?

(not moly screws.... Dont ever use molly screws).

Edit: still trying to figure out formatting in Reddit

Yeah they drilled the holes too big. You need some new Mollys. This kind can but screwed into the wall without a drill. Just screw them into the old holes.

Drywall screws, despite the name, are not for drywall. At least, not in that way. They're to go through drywall into the stud behind it. So either you need to use some sort of drywall anchor or fasteners into the metal studs.

As for the weight, that's not really that big a deal, not with something that large and relatively light for it's size. These little guys have a listed sheer strength of 105 pounds on 3/8" drywall. The working load (for safety) is gonna be roughly 1/4 that, so let's just round down and say 25 pounds. That's only 2-3 of these anchors to hold up your art. So say you mount the french cleat using one every 8 inches, that's 6 anchors (if the 4 foot dimension is width), and there you go. The art itself will be hanging really close to the wall, so leverage is minimal. The load is static, so you won't get any extra force from movement. Hanging it on drywall will be fine. Hell, you could go seriously overkill and put in an anchor every 4 inches, if you wanted (though that may damage the integrity of the drywall if they're too close together).