(Part 2) Reddit mentions: The best automotive air conditioning products

Yeah hopefully you got a new OEM part. That being said, it's an 11 year old car and I wouldn't want a brand new top quality part for mine.

https://www.amazon.ca/Universal-Conditioner-CO-10759C-Compressor/dp/B01BPEK1G2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=mazda+3+2008+air+conditioning+compressor&qid=1566581476&replacementKeywords=air+conditioning+compressor&s=gateway&sr=8-1&vehicle=2008-80-2435------------&vehicleName=2008+Mazda+3

Bring that to a mechanic, see if they'll do $150 in labour and you're good.

Check the wiring for the blower motor and blower motor resistor located under the passenger side dash. Make sure the terminals are clean and tight. If they are then replace both of those components. Kinda strange that your mechanic couldn't figure that out. Pretty simple, common issue on alotta cars.

https://www.amazon.com/TYC-700230-Replacement-Blower-Assembly/dp/B007TVTAAY

https://www.amazon.com/Standard-Motor-Products-RU-718-Resistor/dp/B009858W30

This or something similar https://www.amazon.com/GENUINE-APPROVED-SERVICERITE-EVAPORATOR-00053-00008/dp/B07D3B5JTZ

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One part you spray up from underneath into the drain tube with the system OFF and then let it drain out, the other part you spray into the air intake and the vents with the system running. I had to do this to my old Corolla, smelled pretty much exactly like you describe.

I'd couple that with renting an upholstery cleaner and cleaning the seats and the carpet and the rear cargo area.

The anti-drainback valve is different from the filter (I think it's called a guide stalk) stem. This is the little black button that sits about 2 o'clock (ish) from the stalk in the bottom of the housing. The part I'm wanting to change is this https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-Anti-Drainback-Diesel-3C3Z6800A/dp/B00TKO1XG2 it looks like it simply pulls up out of the base but wanted to know if anyone had done it before I tried it. Thanks

Yep, they are pretty cheap and have all different sizes built right into the tool.

Funny thing is those are radiator fans and people do use zip ties to attach them to radiators just not the zip ties that you usually use they look like this https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Fan-Straps-Mounting-Radiator/dp/B003ZWXIAO

For someone who touts using the correct tool all the time, watching that made me want to punch him. Use a piston ring compressor, piston ring tool, and a proper valve spring tool. He should also be giving up on his clean hands and put some oil on various parts of the engine while reassembling.

Yes, grab this guy if kicking the bottom of your glovebox fixed it

MYSMOT Blower Motor Fan Assembly Fits 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 Toyota Prius 1.5L-L4 87103-47020 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q2QJWWM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_zhNqDb93TZM2Y

I built one out of PVC and a blower from Amazon. It blows plety hard. Get a bigger power adapter then it says it needs. You'll need the boot adapter as well to connect the fan to the piping.

Allstar ALL13010 3" Diameter 5" Length 140 CFM Rating Compact Model In-line Duct Blower https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006K8GRVM/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_DDgUzbAJNBB4Q

For the body I used 3" tees that reduce to 3/4" stems with 45s at the end. Let me know if you want more details.
boot dryer https://i.imgur.com/BDY2X8X.jpg

better option

Any of the air horn/lowrider/air suspension tanks are way better options than using a ton of little tanks

Check robot manual for rules regarding compressor, as far as I know for offboard they must be rated at a max of 1.1CFM at 12v

IIRC tank just needs to be rated to appropriate specs for pressure

best option for offboard compressor

even better option for compressor

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ucOTZAg27lo

http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-604-213-Air-Door-Actuator/dp/B004IYWGQU

Behind the panel above the passenger rear tire area inside the vehicle is your rear air controls. The blend door mechanism inside that panel has broken and is stripped. The thumping you hear is it turning and slipping. Super easy fix, takes about 20 minutes.

Not on all vehicles. Heater core control valves are used on earlier Ford and GM products and serve the function of controlling how much coolant enters the heater core. In fact, Dodge Challengers have them (or at least did at one point) aswell. Thats why certain FSMs will tell you to turn the climate control to full heat when refilling coolant, including late 90s/early 00s GM products which I know for a fact function like this (huge problem I had with my old car.)

Refer to these ACDelco part descriptions. https://www.amazon.ca/ACDelco-15-50419-Original-Equipment-Control/dp/B000EQQNQ0

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15-5508-Original-Equipment-Control/dp/B000C9GUV2

My 2002 Olds Intrigue had one of these, very possible that a later model vehicle would still be using them since it makes sense to use as a temporary fix in the case of a heater core leak (which I didnt have, but turning the heat off was a helpful diagnostic tool since I couldn't actually locate the leak. Ended up being a hairline crack that expanded at operating temperature allowing coolant to leak only when warm)

Edit: turns out '11 Ford Rangers and '10 Exploders use em too. Ill find out if a '10 Challenger uses them, but looking like he's out of luck for my idea so far. Different manufacturers use different names though so we'll see.

It needs some r134a. You can buy a 12 oz can at walmart in the automobile section (make sure you get plain r134a, no additives, no oil, no stop leak, nothing else, just plain r134a) for about $14. There are already valves on the system so you are good there. The only kind of hard part is coming up with hose that has the correct fittings on it to connect your fridge valve to the refrigerant can. You will need something like this https://www.amazon.com/Nu-Calgon-4051-99-Piercing-Valve-Products/dp/B007QQRLRG

Or you could have a technician come out but if it was me, I wouldn't recharge it without finding the leak and repairing it. I'd also charge your a minimum of $300 for the sealed system labor.

If you do just want to try and add a little r134 to it, hit me back, I can tell you the easy way to do it without buying gauges.

Manual gauge adapter is pretty expensive. I might be inclined just to throw a sender at it instead of paying $80 for the tools. You might see if you can rent/borrow from the parts store.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-Tools-7219-Pressure-Adapter/dp/B01A8Q4H4A

Replacing a valve core should be cheap, under $50 if the shop has the tool linked below.

Most shops have a nifty tool that lets you swap core valves without dumping the system charge.

• Mastercool (81490) R134A Valve Core Remover Installer
  Change cores while under pressure
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Mastercool-81490-R134A-Remover-Installer/dp/B000KITSMI
  
  Actually on Amazon you can also buy both new valve cores and the tool for $48
  
  https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-26783-Conditioning-System/dp/B0023TQEFQ/

https://www.amazon.com/blue-net-Universal-Portable-Windscreen-Defroster/dp/B07K2CSQQ3/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=truck+defroster&qid=1569874464&s=gateway&sr=8-2

I was looking at something like this.... what do you think?

Four Seasons 24222 #12 Garter Spring O-Ring
For the life of me I cant think of the name but found this link hopefully that's ok.
https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-24222-Garter-Spring/dp/B0069S6O0M

Finishing my response...

Maybe consider a diesel heater that would probably only cost a $1-$2 a day to run in cold conditions. A lot easier than propane and uses little electricity.

I have this one.

But it's a bit bulky to carry, so I bought this one to take on trips which is much more convenient and still carrys plenty of plugs and the tools needed to fit one.

If I ever use the plugs in the more portable one I can simply replace them with the ones from the other kit. And it means I don't have to carry a compressor as the CO2 will be enough to get me to a garage with a pump.

I've done my own, and gotten a couple of thousand miles out of the tyre before wearing out the tyre. That was in a Fazer 6 S2. Your only on a 125 and it looks like a prime candidate for a plug.

Amazon - Silverline Tyre-Repair-Kit

Decent instruction video here

https://youtu.be/9dSrHKXyHJ8