Reddit mentions: The best automotive engine coolers & accessories

B&M 70268 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIGE9G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jIA2DbDHCNM3R

That looks to be the exact one I have, its uses 3/8 barb fittings for the feed and return hoses which is what Lexus uses so it works perfect. It comes with 3/8 hosing as well but I got some extra just in case but I don't believe you have too as what they give you should be enough. I don't have any pictures but I used the brackets that come with it and just some basic nuts/bolts/washers to kinda secure it in place along with some zip ties. I have it mounted off to the lower passenger side in front of the radiator with the fittings facing towards the passenger side. I run the hoses up through a hole between the frame and the bottom passenger side of the radiator and then wrapped some fabric around the hoses so they dont rub against the frame where they pass through that hole. I can walk you through the install if you want. It really wasn't hard. The hard lines for the feed and return are just behind the radiator so that made it SUPER easy to just run the hoses up through the hole and to the cooler. Just make sure you have the return hose fitted to the bottom fitting of the cooler so gravity helps insure you always have oil returning. You can get a bigger cooler too if you want but having a 3/8 barbed fitting on the cooler makes the install painless. My set up isnt pretty, I'm sure you could make it look good if you tried but I care how it works more than how looks.

I believe the 5000 lb. number is when you have the aux. Transmission cooler and a weight distributing hitch. You shouldn't need a weight distributing hitch when only towing 1700 lbs, but it sounds like you need a cooler for sure.

I'm not familiar with the KK at all, but when I did the install on my ZJ, I didn't need do take the radiator or condensor our like someone else commented about. I did take off the bumper and grill though. I just spliced into the rubber transmission lines with double barbed brass fittings with 2 fuel injector clamps on both ends, and ran new 3/8" high temp trans line in front of the radiator and mounted the cooler to the supports behind the grill. The fuel injector clamps are important, because the dont cut into the rubber lines linke the traditional screw type hose clamps.

Another thing you need to think about is if you want to isolate your aux. cooler from the in-radiator cooler you already have. Most factory Aux. cooler setups are plumbed in-line with the in-radiator cooler. I just completely took the in radiator cooler out of the equation and got an oversized cooler. It a lot easier to not have mess with the fittings on the radiator, since they always seem to be a pain and usually require special tools. It will make your engine run a tick cooler as well. Some people think that you need the in radiator cooler to "warm up" the transmission fluid in the winter, but I've had mine separated for years and I've driven in temperatures as cold as -17*. It took longer until it would shift into overdrive, but that seemed to be the only issue. I'm also not sure it actually warms the fluid up any faster because on initial cold start up the thermostat is closed, so the coolant in the radiator isn't circulating around the engine, so that coolant is just as cold as everything else.

By isolating the aux. cooler, you can also avoid the dreaded "strawberry milkshake", where the radiator cracks/leaks internally and your transmission fluid and coolant mix and gets pumped through the transmission creating a pink frothy goop, that will probably take out your transmission. Thats super rare, but it does happen, Xterras were known for that problem.

TL;DR - It was cursed.

Sorry for typos.

Well, it started when the green one died due to a cracked block caused by a severe overheat.

I found the GT, the car that I had always wanted. The fact that it was a Limited made it even better. It was a 99 for sale in 2008 with only 20-something thousand miles. I thought I struck gold. Took it for a test drive, gave it a visual inspection, of course the sales guy said it was tip-top and he showed me the work orders for things like tires and brakes and inspections, so I bought it for cash on the spot.

It overheated the night I brought it home.

I drove it back to the dealership at night, parked it in front of their showroom door and threw the keys in the mail slot. Then I got back home and stopped the check (which I later found out was technically grand theft auto).

They call me the next day and asked why I had done that and I told them about the overheat and based on my experience it needed head gaskets. They agreed to fix it at no cost even though they didn't offer a warrantee due to the car's age.

Wonderful.

I forgot to mention, this was at a Mitsubishi dealership.

After 3 months of them trying to fix everything BUT the head gaskets that could cause an engine to overhead, they relented and sent it to a Subaru dealership down the street. They had it fixed in 3 days.

I finally have my car. All is well. Except for the cloud of smoke that comes up from the engine bay whenever I stop.

Turns out through all of the bullshit they Mitsu dealership did, they caused a pretty significant oil leak that was dripping right down onto the Y pipe. Instead of taking it back to the shit hole and against my better judgement, I picked up a bottle of this shit and poured it in. After a couple days, the smoke stopped.

Perfect. All is right with the world.

A couple months later I've got it up on a lift at the shop I used to work at and I come to find that it had some pretty severe subframe damage due to a front end collision that wasn't reported and/or kept from me when I bought it. Well, it wasn't affecting anything with the car, so I just made sure not to get into any passenger side front overlap collisions. Which I never did, thankfully.

After that, I was driving back home, about 160 mile trip, and right as I'm getting off the highway the resonator on my exhaust fell off leaving about a 12" gap in the pipe right after the cat. I patched it with a female/female piece of exhaust pipe from Auto Zone and a couple crush clamps.

At some point after that my wife backed into it with her CRV while pulling out of the garage bending the hood up about 2".

Then finally, it died. While driving about 35mph the engine started bucking and I lost all power. It never turned over again. I had it towed back to my apartment and eventually sold it not running to a member on USMB.

He swapped out the engine for a fresh one and turned a couple grand profit. Good for him. While he was doing it, he decided to find out why the engine blew up. It turns out some asshole poured a bottle of this shit into the engine which gumed up the screen in the oil pan and the engine had basically been running without oil for the better part of a year and a half.

I was finally rid of the car.

But it's not over.

About 2 months later I get a letter in the mail from Morgantown, WV saying I had an outstanding parking ticket. WTF? I've never even been to Morgantown. Yeah. I forgot to take off the plate when I sold it and after the guy I sold it to got it running he got a parking ticket with my plates. Thankfully, he paid it and apologized.

So here's the deal. The 2003 Accord is known for its rather weak automatic transmission. From what I've heard, it has a lot to do with heat buildup. My girlfriend's car has 210,000 miles and most likely needs to push another 50,000. The transmission shifts fine and I want to keep it that way. So, I added another larger oil cooler to the system, along with a spin-on filter to hopefully catch some particulates. I know the transmission has a filter, but they say its not serviceable and I feel like the extra surface area of the larger filter could help with cooling as well. I decided to put the oil filter between the two coolers so that the filter could catch the crap that may be stuck up in the existing cooler.

Hopefully this spurs an idea in someone else's head, it really wasn't all the difficult and (i hope) will save me thousands in the long run

SUPPLIES:

Spin-on filter and mount

Extra hose

Aftermarket cooler kit

Genuine Honda ATF

Extra spin on nice filter

Happy to help. Air cooled by a mile. I don’t have an endorsement for an actual kit. I used a no brand cooler core with some high quality hoses and AN Fittings. The sandwich plate and thermostatic adaptor are the most important. High quality sandwich plate and adaptor.

As for the brakes, I can’t speak on the pads, but definitely seek out high temp Dot 4 brake fluid and do a complete flush. RBF 600 and 660 come to mind for that. There are plenty of comparable brands out there.

Best of luck.

I replaced:

1. driver and passenger side valve cover gaskets
   
   
2. driver side valve cover (FINDAUTO Valve Cover 13264-EA210... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Y1Q3C5Z?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share ) (because I broke my original one trying to replace spark plug hole seals)....I recommend replacing both valve covers because those center seals are probably cooked if you’re anywhere near 100k+ miles—and they’re non-serviceable on the frontier’s cheesy plastic valve covers.
   
   
3. all 1-6 spark plugs (check that your ignition coils are also good while you have them out.)
   
   
4. Air plenum and throttle body gaskets (you can get them both as a kit) Vincos Upper Intake/Plenum Gasket... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PKQBLM1?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
5. Air filter: Bosch Workshop Air Filter 5486WS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VC1Q0Q4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
6. Engine air cleaner intake duct (mine were cracked): Engine Air Cleaner Intake Duct... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7V2ZX6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   
7. Pcv Tube (I might be misnomering this part)— (breather tube between the two valve covers. Mine was completely dry rotted) Part No.: 11826-EA200 nissanpartsdeal.com
   
   
8. Two intake valve timing control gaskets (p/n 23797-ZA000 nissanpartsdeal.com)—mine were cashed and you have to take the air Plenum off to replace the passenger side one, so you might as well do it while your Plenum is off. You have to remove these valve control modules to remove the valve covers anyway, so replacing their gaskets is a no-brainer.
   
   •••••••••
   
   
9. My next project is to replace my oil cooler gasket:
   
   MAHLE Original B32573 Engine Oil... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0184JRWN6?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   Mine is pissing oil.
   
   •••••••••
   
   I also replaced my number 3 ignition coil. Mine was bad. A mechanic did that one for me. It’s a pisser. 🤦🏻‍♂️
   
   ••••••••
   
   If you need a good low-force torque wrench, I recommend this: TEKTON TRQ21101 1/4-Inch Drive... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M12284X?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
   
   It’s only 1/4” drive, but it works very well. High quality.

just get something like this and run lines to your transmission, and hose clamp (or double hose clamp it) - pretty simple.

You can get something cheaper than that though honestly. When I bought my B&M years ago I don't think I spent over $60. Hayden is another option and a bit cheaper.

No that's the problem, once the lunge starts it can't be fixed without rebuild (and still then it can come back)

The best things to do it change the trans fluid and filter. I've done mine every 50k since 80,000 and it's worked out pretty good, just did it at 230k and it was nice and pink (small amount of metal shavings on the magnet attached to the pan but nothing abnormal).

I've never power flushed it because everyone I've ever talked to says against it, but I did add a transmission fluid cooler to keep the fluid temp down. The #1 killer of auto trans are heat and overheating. I installed it though the rubber lines the lead to the radiator and it's worked out good as well. At the point your at its all about keeping it healthy and operating

Thanks! Is it one like this? https://www.amazon.com/70268-SuperCooler-Automatic-Transmission-Cooler/dp/B000CIGE9G/ref=sr_1_1

http://www.mishimoto.com/10-row-oil-cooler.html

Get a universal sandwhich plate off ebay. 10ft of AN-10 steel braid and 2 sets of fittings and your good to go.

If your not a DIY type of person, then just get a universal one all ready to go.

http://www.amazon.com/Godspeed-Universal-Quality-Stainless-Braided/dp/B009KALA78/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1409113606&sr=8-1&keywords=godspeed+oil+cooler

maybe transmission coolers? something like this maybe?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0083H5UUC/ref=psdc_15737301_t1_B01MG3A48Q

More info

Installation: inline

Cooler https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-676-Rapid-Cool-Transmission/dp/B000C39CL8?ref_=ast_bbp_dp (but i'd go with 679 if i'd do it again, bigger)

extra hose https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-106-Transmission-Cooler/dp/B000HE6H3S/

Custom brackets, made them myself.

I just got my temp readings. 192f tranny, outside 60f, a 30 min light roadtrip with some traffic. Not bad but slightly dissapointing.

If the radiator in the Pathfinder has been replaced I wouldn't worry too much about it. The replacements all had the defect fixed. If it were me and I bought it and noticed it still had the original radiator in it and the vehicle history showed it has never been addressed, Id probably change it out too. The radiator itself is less than $100 and about 30min-1hr to swap out. If you wanted to you could spend less than $100 and bypass the radiator all together with an external cooler and a thermal bypass. By the wording of the ad, it sounds like he is referring to himself as the car nut. I had a 2003 Pathfinder (previous generation) and it was a tank.

With the Sequoia I'd worry about if the timing belt has been changed ever. The Nissan has a timing chain that doesnt require being changed out. Typically you are supposed to change those timing belts out every 100k miles.

http://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-402-Ultra-Cool-Transmission/dp/B000C39C86/

Specifically this one - B&M 70264 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CIIDZE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WUCkybESWYETA

If your worried about overheating the autobox plumb in one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000CJ262Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1464795787&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=derale+transmission+cooler&dpPl=1&dpID=51LoTDaCFRL&ref=plSrch

If your really worried about over heating the auto box, this kit has a temp switch to turn that fan on.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004XONS9Y/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1464795787&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=derale+transmission+cooler&dpPl=1&dpID=41d5FfsxLhL&ref=plSrch

I'd put in a bigger cooler, personally. The transmission you have (assuming it's a 1/2 ton) is the 4L60E and while it's not awful, it's also not really great for towing. You could put a 2nd cooler in place (i.e. 2 of the same) or one big cooler, the enemy of any automatic transmission is heat. I ran this cooler: https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-679-Rapid-Cool-Transmission/dp/B000C3BBKS on my Yukon XL, which has the same drivetrain you do - never had any transmission issues.

Now, the bigger question is whether or not an Avalanche is really adequate for your needs. Is it a 1/2 or 3/4 ton Avalanche, and how big is the trailer (length & loaded weight)?

2 psi is too low, no way. Maybe if it was like 7 or more.

Is it some shit like this: http://www.amazon.com/GMC-Electric-SUPERCHARGER-Watt-Intake/dp/B003WGOKD2/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

http://www.amazon.com/70268-SuperCooler-Automatic-Transmission-Cooler/dp/B000CIGE9G

Hundred bucks for the cooler, hose, and clamps. Really wondering where in the hell that extra tree fiddy came from.

no, you Just happen to have "great" luck. but sooner or later it will Happen to you, so Instead of trashing the car on here. which the Little child in my brain wants to do. i'm Going to Post everything you could ever need to Figure it out. here we go

• Fuel Sending unit what it looks like you get these from the dealer for $140 and $30 tank seals (2 each) I have part numbers but if you ask for both left and right sending units the parts counter will find you the correct parts. You will know have a tank issue if you have the Following codes: P0460 and or p0461 CEL's
  
• Steering lock: the issue and how you know its happening push start wont go past this you my friend are LUCKY this has not happened. seriously. Imagine your car is just randomly dead. and you can't do Anything about it... this may save you a tow or prevent the issue by Pulling a fuse or by Binding the Lock up
  teardown of lock you can Bypass this and its 500 bucks for a new one that is made the same with the same failure rate. easiest way for me was to remove the lock and Bind it up with a Chunk of Alum. then I pulled the fuse.
  
• Oil Consumption issues : there is no "real fix"
  
• Fuel starvation: I'm currently working on this and it appears to happen only in hard right turns and Low (1/3 tank or less) on hill starting situations. Hydramat install this inside the tank and the Aux Suction line will need to be retrofitted to mount on the Hydamat. this will allow the pump to Pull from the left side when all the fuel flows over 2 it.
  
  
• Fuel Pump Damage inside of tank. Broken post Post that fell off
  Repaired pumpthis is a Temporary fix and you loose access to the last 2 gallons of the tank because you have shortened the Mount. Phuck on the370z.com is currently working on a Metal top plate. new pump costs $700. but a new top plate will be less then $200
  
  
• Crank position sensor Melting from Exhaust heat.Problem and Soultion
  
  
• Oil Overheating Issue :my Oil temp 109f 30 Mile drive, Light traffic never above 5k Rpmfrom amazon
  
  *VLSD: change the DARN OIL
  
  
  and again, im not trying to shit on the car or tell others to NOT get it. im trying to get others to be aware of these issues. my Nissans have all been Trouble free short of a few hickups. and replacing wear parts... so this car has been alot of work and time so far.......

The radiator / transmission cooler on these rust internally, mixing the fluids into a transmission destroying “pink milkshake”.

I’d recommend using this external transmission cooler and block off the old transmission cooler fittings to avoid losing your coolant if / when the radiator rusts out.